Astoria paper flowers. MK Flowers from paper from Astoria

Another gorgeous paper flower. I'm just in awe of this craftsmanship. This beauty was made by a girl under the nickname Astoria. Below you can see detailed wizard Class.

What do you need: Paper weight 120. 3.7 cm composter.

1) Poke holes with an awl and cut the petals.

2) Moisten the paper so that it becomes soft. In the photo on the left side, for clarity, a dry part and a wet one. Fold first in half, then "accordion".

3) Holding the petals, wrinkle the paper as if corrugating it. Control the back side so that tucks form there too.

4) Carefully unroll. You can dry the parts first, or you can collect a flower from wet ones. I continue with the wet method, wet paper is easier to correct. Attach a foam ball to the wire. If there is none, cut off a strip 1 cm wide. and about 7 cm long. We fold it 4 times, fix it with a wire in the middle, put a drop of glue and twist it between the fingers, cut off the excess. It is better to do this from a moistened strip.

5) I found for myself a convenient way to assemble a flower, using a ruler, which I share. We select the desired diameter, insert the wire and slowly pull, but without fanaticism, you can pull out the wire or damage the paper. The first layer can be pushed all the way through the ruler. Then press the petals more tightly in the middle of the bud.

6) I have big flower from 4 parts. Buds from one and two parts. We add each layer using the holes in the ruler, slightly pulling the wire down, compacting the layers. Attach the last layer through a circle of smaller diameter than the previous one, so that the flower looks like it has blossomed. Shape and adjust the petals to your liking.

7) Bud. Everything is like in the beginning. The asterisk is also more convenient to glue through the hole, it is not necessary to moisten. It remains to dry the flowers. I used a hair dryer. After drying, the flowers will become hard.

Natalia

Composter 5 cm.
Paper - drawing paper "Gosznak".
I make such flowers from Korean paper, but in the master class I specially use whatman paper to make it easier for you to decide on the paper.

Prepare a lot of details, cut the petals, fold them in a pile. Take a spray bottle and squirt water between layers. Knead a stack of paper like a circle of dumpling dough. Periodically check the middle, it is necessary that the paper is soaked with water.
Or the second option - fast. Substitute a stack of paper under a stream of water, wet the layers. Remove from water. Spread the water with your fingers, wet again until the paper is completely wet. I like the second option better :)
Without wringing with a completely wet paper, proceed to the next step.

Dilute the ink in a small amount of water. Or with a sponge, draw paint from the pad, dip it in water and wring it out. You can use printer ink.

Sponge (I have a cosmetic) blotting movements (like "shmyak, shmyak"), paint the middle of the top layer of the stack, set aside, then the next layer. So gradually shifting to the second pile, paint half. Don't let excess water and flimsy parts scare you.

Take the second unpainted half of the parts and lightly dip the edges into the paint.

Knead the painted stacks of parts with your fingers, evenly distributing the paint. Check the middle, if the paint is not distributed well, sprinkle water with a spray bottle between layers.

When finished with staining, wring out the water well with a cloth.
Holding the stack at one end, blow dry the parts on all sides until almost dry.Do not useembossing dryer.

Fold up the detail. When collecting an accordion, make folds.
Holding the part approximately in the middle with your fingers, pinch the edge with tweezers. Gently turn only the tweezers until the paper slides out of it. If the paper is torn, then dry the parts with a hairdryer. And vice versa, if the folds are not laid soft - moisten.

Correct the folds by pinching the corner with your fingers.

Gently straighten the part and leave to dry.

When the first deferred parts dried up. you can make dots.
Get a black ink pad. Better with water resistant inks. A brush with short stiff bristles (I have a vacuum cleaner to clean the filter, you can pull the bundle out of the brush).
Holding the brush vertically, make dots with a dotted motion.

While the details are not yet completely dry, using a ruler with circles and a tool, make a recess in the center, lowering the petals onto the ruler.
Leave the parts to dry completely.

Glue the parts by pressing the tool in the center.

Make a hole with an awl. Fold the stamens in half using the wire.

Pull the stamens to the middle, using a ruler with a hole so as not to deform the flower. Apply glue so that when you cut off the excess, the stamens do not fall out. Lower the stamens to the desired length by gluing them to the flower.

Here is the result with coloring in the center and around the edges. There are actually a lot of options and each flower will be unique. Doing a lot at once, in stages, is very convenient and in much less time than if you do one flower at a time. The process is very exciting and not complicated, it is boring to insert only stamens. While I was preparing for the master class, I got so carried away that in 3 days I made a huge bunch of flowers - 236 pcs. Enough for a whole year or two :)

It is convenient to store flowers by threading the wire through the loops from the stamens. For work, choosing the right ones, I just cut it off.

Composter 37mm
Paper weight 120.

So, cut the paper, pierce holes with an awl and cut the petals. Moisten the paper to make it soft. In the photo on the left side, for clarity, a dry part and a wet one.
We work only with wet parts.

Build a base on the wire, I have a foam ball, about 1 cm in size. (from a children's inflatable toy).
Cover two opposite petals with glue. Wrap the first petal and be sure to let it stick together, otherwise the middle risks turning out to be empty!

Glue the petals on top of each other, creating a cone. Formed corners at the base to crush.
Perhaps this was the most difficult stage.

We glue the petals of the second part in threes, laying them according to the scheme, as shown in the photo on the right.

After gluing the last three petals, turn the edges slightly with a light touch while the paper is damp and soft.

We twist the third part at the edges, an angle of approximately 90 *. Glue three as before.

For convenience, you can use the hole in the ruler. So the petals will stick at the same time.

Twist the fourth, fifth and sixth parts and press down on a soft rug, as if rolling the tool from the center to the middle of the petals. In this case, the petals themselves are laid in one direction. (Instead of a special tool, I tried to use a nail polish cap - no worse).
The light wrinkles formed will give the rose a bit of naturalness.

It should turn out something like cups. Place the "glasses" in the circumference of a ruler of suitable diameter and dry. I used a hair dryer.

Let's continue the assembly, distributing the petals in a checkerboard pattern.

Composter 37mm
Pierce a hole with an awl in the center, cut off a little on the sides, making the petals thinner. Cut with a "Christmas tree" moisturize and twist between the fingers, each one individually, to get "disarranged".

A little about the leaves:

Composter 15mm, strip 2mm.
Moisturize leaves. Placing the awl almost parallel to the surface, we draw lines along the center, edges and again in the center. Glue the leaves to the strip.

The rose is ready, now about the buds - these are the initial 3 stages.
No. 2 - one detail.
No. 3 - two parts (stage 1, 2).
No. 4 - two parts (stage 1, 3).
No. 5 - three parts (1, 2, 3 stage).

I wish you pleasant creativity!

Added later:
Instead of foam ball it is better to use Jumping Clay - very comfortably! Lightweight, after drying it looks like foam, it is good "friends" with glue.

Roses

We will need:

Paper for watercolor (density 160 g/sq.m)

Markers with water-based ink

Scissors

Embossing stick (or other handy tool)

Film (can be cut from file)

PVA glue

Stencil ruler with round holes

Wire (for stem)

Styrofoam ball (for core)

1. We cut 6-petal blanks (with scissors or a figured hole punch). We cut the petals, almost reaching the center. We pierce the center with an awl. The number of such details for each rosette depends on the required size of the future flower. In this example, we will make a rose from 6 blanks with a diameter of 3 cm.
2. We moisten each blank well, bend it in half, then with an "accordion" (photo 1). We clamp it with tweezers and paint over the middle of the workpiece with a felt-tip pen, climbing into all the places available to us))), then we dip it into the water with the very tip.

3. We put our blank in a piece of the file and crush it with our fingers, and the color is evenly distributed.

4. We unfold and pass along the very edge with a red felt-tip pen, carefully fold it as it was, and lower the edge painted red into the water, set it as in photo 7, in order to avoid the appearance of extra spots))) White blank for another rose - circle only around the edge , NOT lowering then into the water - you get a clearer edge.

5. We unfold and determine the wrong side of the workpiece. In photo 9 on the left is the front side, it has a clearer contour, on the right - the wrong side is all blurry. We will emboss all the details from the INSIDE. We put a napkin, it will absorb excess water. Departing from the edge for about a couple of millimeters, as if we circle the petal along the contour.

6. Then we emboss the entire petal, and I continue like a zigzag. Similarly, we emboss all other blanks from the inside. We take a wire, fix a foam ball (the larger the ball, the rounder the rosette), smear the blank and the ball with glue, as in photo 14. By the way, about glue, this is construction PVA, it is thick and more convenient to use.

7. Glue the petals in three (through one), crush with your fingers. I usually immediately glue the second part, placing the petals in a checkerboard pattern in relation to the first part, also three petals each. We put it in the ruler, only without fanaticism, so as not to tear the paper. We leave to dry. Usually I don’t wait for complete drying, I caught it a little - and continue)) When we pull it out of the ruler, we crush the corners at the base.

8. While the bud dries, we take the remaining 4 parts, turn them over and emboss on the front side, carefully bend the edges of the petals (photo 19), emboss the middle parts of 3 and 4 parts.

9. 3 and 4 details are smeared with glue, as in photo 21, glue the 3rd, and into the line, if necessary, crushing the petals with tweezers. A little dried up - we glue the 4th detail, now the ruler is no longer needed, we just crush it at the base with our fingers. Don't forget to arrange the petals in a checkerboard pattern.

10. We smear the 5th and 6th blanks with glue more sparingly))) We glue it, also crushing it at the base. We punch or cut out a green flower, pierce it with an awl, cut it finely along the edge, moisten it, scroll it a little between our fingers and glue it in place!
Fuuuuuh, longer to tell than to do))))

11. Here is the result of our hard work) In the background is a rose, painted in the second way - without blurring with water. The button is made from one piece. Green leaves are alive (were))))

orchids

Materials and tools almost the same as in the case of roses, only it is advisable to take paper with a density of 200 g / sq.m.

1. First of all, we twist the end of the wire, as in photo 1, dip it in PVA and dry it on the battery. We draw the details of a flower, the one that looks like a vase, we enter it in a 2x2 cm square.

2. Cut out and put in a damp cloth. Moisturize very well! While the parts are getting wet, the wire just dried up - it looks unsightly))) Therefore, we paint our "pestle" in the color we need ... and dry again ...

3. We paint the first detail in the way we already know: we circle it with a felt-tip pen (felt-tip pens with water-based ink), dip it into water (I completely dipped it directly), knead it in a piece of file; we emboss, stepping back a little from the edge, as in photo 9.

4. We slightly emboss the middle of the petals. Then we wrap it around a thin pencil (I have an insulin syringe instead) and crush along the entire length of the petal. Immediately gently straighten the edges of the petals back! And dry!

5. We color the second part, emboss it in the same way as the first one, crumple it along the entire length, straighten it by the ends (we are glad that the paper is thick - it endures everything)))) We give it the desired shape with our fingers and also send it to dry.