How to make a loop on a wellton machine. Sewing a buttonhole on a sewing machine
For sewing loops with a continuous line, special paws are used. The width and length of the buttonhole are usually set before overcasting, but in principle they can also be changed during processing. Buttonhole stitching can be done both in semi-automatic mode and in automatic mode, it all depends on the type of foot installed.
On the automatic foot, adjust the length of the buttonhole by inserting the button into the holder. When processing a buttonhole with this foot, it will fully match the size of the button, which is very convenient. When using thick buttons, you need to manually increase the length of the loop a little on the typewriter. Each machine adjusts differently, for this, read the user manual that comes with the machine.
The semi-automatic foot has markings on the left side for adjusting the buttonhole length. Before sewing a buttonhole, mark the length of the buttonhole on the product and move the sliding gate, matching the bottom mark on it with the beginning of the buttonhole on the product. Keep the ends of the threads on the left side of the presser foot while overcasting.
These loops are worked in a zigzag and secured in the corners with long stitches. You can process "built-in" loops in 4 or 2 stages, it all depends on the functions of the sewing machine. In the second case, a passage is made with the machine in one direction, then reinforcement stitches are made, then a passage in the opposite direction and again transverse reinforcement stitches are made. Overcasting in 4 steps is more versatile, since it is possible to adjust the stitch frequency during the process of sewing a buttonhole.
- Place the buttonhole line in the center of the foot, and its beginning is directly under the needle. Lower the presser foot and start sewing.
- Mark slowly. Position the loop mark slightly to the left of the center line. When finished, raise the needle, move the fabric slightly to the left, lower the needle and raise the presser foot.
- Rotate the fabric 180°. After moving the needle to the right, make a stitch and raise the needle. Sew 6 wide securing stitches. Finish the stitch at the needle position on the left.
This may be due to the density and thickness of the fabric that your machine cannot handle, or you just want to add some exclusivity to your sewing project, so you prefer handmade welt buttonholes.
The main difference between a buttonhole made by hand and on sewing machine, in order of action.
Buttonhole made on a sewing machine
- mark the loop;
- perform it on a typewriter - the loop is built along the contour with dense zigzag stitches automatically;
- cut the loop.
Life hack:
Loop made by hand
- mark the loop;
- cut a loop;
- open cuts of the buttonhole are manually processed with dense, even, symmetrical stitches.
Step 1
Mark the loops with a water-soluble marker. The length of the buttonhole must be greater than the diameter of the button.
Step 2
Cut the loop.Step 3
Start the buttonhole on one side - overcast the open cut with buttonhole stitches.
: how to do it right and where to use it
Step 4
At the end, sew a few short stitches, and then a few long ones. Thus, you will perform the bartack and go to the other side of the buttonhole. Also overcast the open cut with a buttonhole stitch.
Step 5
At the end, sew a few short and a few long stitches for back-off.
By the same principle, instead of a loop rectangular shape you can make oval loops. Or loops with an eye.
- Processing a welt buttonhole by hand will require you to be extremely precise and attentive.
- It is necessary to observe the density and length of the stitches, do not tighten the thread too much.
- Sew with a single thread, as when using a double thread, it is difficult to avoid sewing errors.
- To process loops manually, use special threads.
- Before sewing loops on the product, be sure to practice on a piece of fabric from which the item is sewn. This skill only improves with practice!
- To strengthen the loop, you can lay along the sections, for example, embroidery thread. It will provide stability and give handmade loops a beautiful relief.
Loop manually - an indicator of skill.
Renata: I used to work in a government atelier. There, absolutely all the loops are made only by hand. I had to make buttonholes in a coat where the hem was made of velvet, and the buttonhole machine completely refused to make buttonholes. They were made for me by a supermaster. To begin with, the thread for the loop was necessarily treated with wax for strength, then the fabric was cut with a special device in the form of a loop with an eye, then a stitch was made around the slot - it was like a loop frame, and then the loop was overcast. Double thread, of course. The hinges looked amazing! The coat has long fallen into disrepair, but it is a pity to throw it away because of the loops - they are a work of art. Just cut it out and frame it on the wall.
When I sew on buttons, I rub the threads with wax - the button lasts longer.
MPFH: I will add about wax (waxing) ... It is necessary for convenience to cut ordinary threads to the distance that you usually use for your handmade. If there is no wax, you can replace it with a regular candle. It is necessary to "drag" these cut threads through the candle twice, then completely lay it between two layers of matter and iron it with an iron. After such waxing, the threads cannot be broken, only with scissors. Then wind them on an unnecessary coil.
I noticed that sometimes on the material after ironing the threads, traces of the color of the threads remain, which means that some threads are dyed of poor quality, so waxing to some extent protects against molting.
hand girl: Everyone has their cockroaches. I have these cockroaches - loops.
If you process the loop on a typewriter (it doesn’t matter, at home or at work), then first the loop is overcast, and then the fabric is cut (or cut through) between the two edges of the loop. In this case, as a rule, either immediately or a little later, the fabric begins to fray slightly. I don't like it very much.
Please note that when machined, the front side of the buttonhole looks much neater than the wrong side, due to the fact that the upper thread tension is weaker. If the model assumes that the inside of the buttonhole will be shown with might and main (the buttonhole on the collar and the top buttonholes on the blouse, etc.), then you will agree that the view of the buttonhole from the inside is also important.
I first cut the fabric and only then overcast it. In this case, all the edges of the loops are immediately hidden under the threads, the edges of the loops look neat. And in this case, the front side looks more beautiful than the wrong side, but the difference is not so striking.
Depending on the type of fabric, the thickness and type of threads vary (single or double, silk or cotton). It is very important to stick the needle into the tissue strictly perpendicular to the plane of the tissue. Otherwise, you can shift the layers of fabric by microns, and when making a buttonhole, this is immediately noticeable.
Performing a regular laundry buttonhole on a non-slip fabric of medium thickness.
At this stage, the loop looks like this:
On the right side, there are two short vertical stitches along the edges of the buttonhole and a thread with a needle coming out of point 1. On the wrong side, two long horizontal stitches and one short vertical stitch between points 1 and 2.
I described how I do it now. I recommend that, until you have acquired the skill, either chop the place where the loop is made with pins or sew it with thread so that the layers of fabric do not move. On thin fabrics, where it is necessary to overcast in one thread, the thread is secured not with a slip loop, but with several short stitches, as in embroidery.
The smallest loops that I made by hand were for buttons with a diameter of about 1 cm. They looked good and did not take much time.
Eyelet loops are made in much the same way. It is necessary to make a triangle from the side of the eye.
There is a very simple way by which you will learn how to sew buttonholes on a sewing machine without a special function and a buttonhole foot. In this master class, we will talk about this.
Most often, the loops on the fastener of the product are processed in last moment when the whole product is almost ready. It is important to remember that the location of the loops must be duplicated, for example, using adhesive dublerin. Dublerin is desirable to choose a non-contrasting color relative to the color of the fabric of the product.
You will need:
Tailor's pins for medium fabrics;
Tailor's pins for thin fabrics;
Small scissors;
Ruler;
Disappearing fine line fabric marker.
Step 1. Markup
Determine the width of future loops. The loop is usually made a few millimeters longer than the diameter of the button.
Button diameter - 2.7 cm, selected buttonhole width - 3.0 cm.
Mark the position of all loops in place of the future fastener. Using a washable marker, draw a loop frame 3.0 cm long and about 0.5 cm wide.
If you don't have a fine marker, you can mark the frame with marker stitches.
Sweep or chop the layers of fabric in the fastener area with tailor's pins.
Pins for thin fabrics are placed on the buttonhole frame, pricking them along the short sides, this will provide convenience and accuracy when processing the buttonhole frame on the sewing machine.
Step 2 Frame
This operation is performed on the sewing machine.
Settings: straight line, stitch length 1.5 mm.
According to the markup, stitch the frame with a line with a short stitch: the length of the line along the long sides of the loop frame is limited by pins, in the area of the short sides of the loop frame it is better to count the number of stitches, it should be the same on all short sides of all loops, so the accuracy of the loops will be maximized.
Loop frame. The pins located on the short sides of the loop frame should NOT be removed at this stage.
Step 3. Long sides of the buttonhole
At this stage, the long sides of the loop are processed with a tight zigzag.
Settings: zigzag stitch, stitch length ~2.5 mm, zigzag density ~0.4 mm.
The zigzag must be laid along the long side of the buttonhole so that the stitches lie on both sides of the laid line that forms the frame of the buttonhole. Guidelines for length - pins.
Step 4. Short sides of the buttonhole
At this stage, the loop frame closes - the short sides are processed with a tight zigzag.
Settings: zigzag stitch, stitch length ~6.0 mm, minimum zigzag density ~0.2 mm.
On a test piece, it is better to preselect the stitch length for sewing a short buttonhole edge. The stitch should cover the width of the buttonhole. The machine foot is located exactly in the center of the buttonhole, and the short side is clearly under the needle.
To close the buttonhole in width, you need to make about 10 stitches back and forth, performing dot bartacks at the beginning and at the end of the operation.
The buttonhole frame is overcast, all pins and markings can be removed.
Iron the loop area.
Step 5: Finishing
It remains only to cut the loops. This operation is conveniently performed using small and sharp scissors. It is very important not to touch the zigzag threads when cutting.
Carefully trim the excess threads inside the loop, cutting out their excess.
How easy and simple to sew a button on a leg
In order to make it more convenient to sew on a button, forming a small “leg”, you can use a sewing machine needle: place the thick part of the needle under the button, and prick the sharp part into the fabric.
By education, Daria is a PR and economist, but a few years ago she devoted herself entirely to her favorite business - sewing.
She learned to sew from magazines, books and using the Internet, she also has sewing courses in her arsenal, but Daria considers herself self-taught. She loves to study specialized literature on sewing different years and countries, and then apply the knowledge gained in practice.
At the end of 2017, Daria became the winner of the holiday competition from the site.
She maintains her page in Instagram and group
Sewing buttonholes for clothes can be made by hand, but fast and accurate buttonholes can only be made on a sewing machine that comes with a special foot.
The buttonhole on the sewing machine can be sewn in automatic, semi-automatic and manual modes.
Details about the features of buttonhole sewing on a sewing machine. What is the difference between automatic looping and semi-automatic mode. Which loop execution mode is better to buy sewing machine and etc.
1. Methods for making a loop on a typewriter
The method of making a buttonhole on a typewriter depends on the class of the sewing machine and its technical capabilities. But the type of buttonhole performed by household sewing machines is practically the same for everyone - a flat straight buttonhole based on a zigzag stitch. And only electronic computerized machines, as well as household embroidery machines, have the ability to make a buttonhole for clothes with an eye, and several types and any size.
In the sewing industry, special machines are used for making buttonholes, they are called buttonhole machines. For example, a class 25 buttonhole machine is used only for making straight buttonholes, cutting a hole in the fabric. But we are interested in how to make buttonholes on a household sewing machine, the sequence of buttonhole buttonholes in semi-automatic and manual modes, since in automatic mode the buttonhole is performed without the participation of a seamstress.
Depending on the class of the sewing machine, the process of making a buttonhole can be automatic (automatic buttonhole), semi-automatic and manual. In all cases, a special buttonhole foot is used, except for manual mode. In manual mode, a foot is used to perform a zigzag stitch (Seagull sewing machine, etc.)
Many modern household sewing machines perform buttonholes in automatic mode. To do this, just install a special foot, approximately the same as in the top photo. In order not to control the length of the buttonhole in the foot, you need to install a button and do not forget to push the vertical lever for switching the machine's stroke down to the stop.
The paws designed for basting a buttonhole in the athematic mode allow you not to mark the size of the buttonhole on the fabric, the button fixed in the foot serves as a guide for the size of the buttonhole. The vertical lever, in the process of making a buttonhole, automatically switches the movement of the machine in the opposite direction, so do not forget to pull it out. It is located at the top of the front cover and is only used for the buttonhole operation. It is better not to push it unless necessary.
If you have a sewing machine manual, see the section on how to sew buttonholes, there should be detailed and visual instructions.
It is not necessary to install a button in the foot exactly the one that you will sew on this garment. After all, it can be oval or square, have a leg, and even if it is inserted into the foot, it will not stay in it and jump out. You just need to pick up a flat button about the same diameter as the buttonhole and place it in the foot.
Actually, the process of making a sewing loop machine is very simple. Put the fabric under the foot, press the pedal of the machine, and it will automatically move in both directions, while performing all the necessary backtacks and switching. After finishing work, the sewing machine will stop itself, ready to start the next loop. Making a buttonhole automatically with the button pattern set makes the job very easy, but requires some skill, as there are a number of features.
For some sewing machines, the reverse zigzag stitch frequency is different from the forward zigzag stitch frequency. Therefore, an additional "fine" adjustment of this operation is provided, when the zigzag frequency in the opposite direction is separately adjusted. However, not all sewing machine models are equipped with this function, and therefore the thread density on each side of the buttonhole may differ.
On our website there is an instruction for a Brother sewing machine. It contains a description of how to adjust the zigzag loop frequency in automatic mode.
Remember to adjust the presser foot pressure on the fabric as well. In many cases, the presser foot pressure should be relieved, especially if the buttonhole will be welted on a blouse made from lightweight fabrics such as chiffon. If you do not adjust the presser foot pressure, then the fabric under the foot will “catch”, shrink, and instead of a loop, a ball of thread will turn out.
Experienced seamstresses "insure" the movement of the fabric by pulling it with their hands, but we do not recommend you to do this, as well as the manufacturer. If the fabric is pulled by hand, the sewing machine may be seriously damaged. It is better to make a few test samples of buttonholes, adjust the thread tension, presser foot pressure, select the optimal buttonhole size, etc. And only after that proceed to "punch" the loops on the finished product.
semi-automatic buttonhole almost the same as the buttonhole process in automatic mode. The only and essential difference is that you have to control this process. With this method of performing a loop, you need to turn on each of the 4 consecutive operations separately by manually switching modes. To do this, on the front panel of the sewing machine, a knob for switching the looping modes is installed.
Suppose you set the sewing machine to the buttonhole operation, lower the presser foot onto the fabric, and start sewing the buttonhole. The first cycle can be started with any operation, including cross bartacking. In our example, a small zigzag stitch will be laid first, along the right side of the loop. Before reaching the line marked in advance with chalk, you need to stop the machine and switch, with the needle raised, to the wide transverse bartack mode. Sew a few stitches and switch the handle to sew the buttonhole in the opposite direction, next to the already sewn stitch. The last operation is again a wide bartack, only on the other side of the loop.
In the semi-automatic buttonhole mode, you have to constantly switch the mode of operation of the sewing machine. At first glance, you might think that this is inconvenient. In fact, on the contrary, since the whole process is completely under control and you can always stop the machine, fix or adjust the fabric under the foot, increase the distance between the lines, etc.
If you are just going to buy a sewing machine, then we recommend that you stop at this version of the loop. It is this type of sewing loop that the Janome economy class sewing machine has. Based on our own experience, we can recommend buying a sewing machine with this buttonhole method. Although we have both industrial buttonhole machines and automatic buttonhole machines, everyone uses a regular economy class machine that has this kind of buttonhole.
Video on how to sew buttonholes on a sewing machine in semi-automatic mode.
To sew a buttonhole in manual mode, it is only necessary that the sewing machine sews a zigzag stitch. Performing a loop in manual mode is performed by such machine models as the Chaika sewing machine, Podolsk 142, the Veritas 8014 sewing machine and some modern economy class machines costing less than 5000 rubles.
For loop execution A regular zigzag foot will do. Moreover, such machines do not have another, special foot for a buttonhole. Making buttonholes by hand on a sewing machine is not very convenient, but if there is no other choice, then you can try.
Be sure to mark the buttonhole with chalk or baste this section of fabric with contrasting threads.
Zigzag stitch width and length can be adjusted manually. Set the stitch length in the range from 0.3 to 1 mm, select the thread tension on a prototype, but usually from 1 to 5, that is, less than half. Install the zigzag foot on the machine, as already mentioned, with a wide narrow slot. Set the adjustment knob to the next position. For basting the sides of the buttonhole: stitch width - 0.2 cm.
Cross bartack: maximum width is 0.5 cm. When sewing a cross bartack, remember to set the stitch frequency to "0".
Making a buttonhole on a sewing machine requires a certain amount of experience, and as paradoxical as it sounds, especially when done in automatic mode.
Try to make a few "experienced" loops first, preferably with all the padding and lining, repeating the section of clothing on which you will make loops. You will find that sometimes both sides of the zigzag stitch run so close that it is difficult to cut through the fabric without damaging the stitching threads.
Sometimes, when performing a backward movement, the sewing machine "slips" and clumps of thread form. Sometimes you even have to completely dissolve the loop, which is highly undesirable.
In thick places, the thread may break, loose stitches may appear from below, etc.
Consider these "nuances" and first set the correct thread tension. On thickened places, you can "knock" in advance with the handles of heavy tailor's scissors.
Mark the loop with long lines in chalk so you can see where to stop the car. The foot is not glass, and sometimes you have to stop the machine at random.
See if the two zigzag stitches are too close together. With a certain skill, you can slightly shift the fabric, move the line back, and closer to the bartack, "return" it back.
Start the buttonhole by carefully lowering the needle into the fabric at the very beginning of the buttonhole.
Lower the presser foot and sew 4 or 5 stitches of the first wide bartack. Stitch length to "0".
Then lift the needle out of the fabric and set a smaller zigzag width (as you wish) and a stitch length of 0.5. Now start working the first side of the loop until it reaches the intended border.
After going to the end of the buttonhole mark, lift the needle out of the fabric, set the zigzag width to maximum and the stitch length to 0.
Sew 4-5 stitches to create a second bartack. Stop the machine with the needle in the left position.
Raise the presser foot and, without lifting the needle, turn the fabric and change the sewing direction.
Remove the fabric from the machine and make a slit in the buttonhole with a special expander for cutting the buttonholes, after inserting pins into the edges of the buttonhole. They will be a reliable stop for the spreader blade, and you will not cut the loop more than necessary.
The embroidery machine has limitless possibilities, including loops. On it, you can sweep not only ordinary straight sewing loops, but also eye loops. Eye loops of any size, any shape and type, including those with a reinforcing thread, this machine will make easily and accurately.
Modern sewing machines perform many types of stitches, but many of them are never used. And here loop execution in automatic or semi-automatic mode - this is a very popular operation. When buying a sewing machine, choose one that has this operation, even if you do not plan to make buttonholes for clothes yet.
For expensive sewing machines, a loop is necessarily provided, and it is done in automatic mode. But you do not have to buy just such a machine to make buttonholes on clothes. Many inexpensive economy-class sewing machines have a semi-automatic buttonhole. Pay attention to this when buying a sewing machine. Sometimes, a small surcharge of 300 - 500 rubles will allow you to buy a sewing machine that performs loops in semi-automatic mode.
The buttonhole sewing machine comes with a special presser foot. But, even if your machine does not have it, you can buy it separately at any sewing machine store. Pay attention to the fastening of the foot. When buying a new accessory foot, take with you any foot from your sewing machine kit.
To avoid damaging the loop when cutting it, use pins. The pins should not be too thick as they can sometimes leave puncture marks. This applies to thin and "delicate" fabrics such as silk. For them, it is desirable to use very thin and sharp pins.
