Darning on a Janome sewing machine. Master class professional darning of jeans at home

Knitted, sewn, fur leather and leatherette products.

It is useful to regularly inspect all clothes in order to identify damage in time, since timely minor repairs will help save your favorite things from moving to the mezzanine or to the country house. In addition, it will help save the family budget and eliminate unnecessary expenses.

The easiest way is to take things to the workshop, where they will be repaired by professionals. However, now they can turn up and hem new jeans that are too long for almost half of their cost, which, you see,

very cheap. Therefore, we bring to your attention ways to repair clothes from various materials to help you keep your wardrobe in top condition.

Darning clothes. Darning types

You can darn clothes if the damage to the fabric is not too great and the material is still strong along its edges. This is necessary to secure the base of the darning, otherwise it will not be possible to accurately lay stitches that imitate the surface of the fabric. Since darning involves masking a hole in the fabric, threads of the appropriate thickness to match the product are used to make it. If there is such an opportunity, then the darning thread is pulled out of a flap of the same fabric.

Depending on the type of fabric, the optimal type of darning is selected:

- dense;

- satin;

- patterned;

- invisible.

At the same time, they always work only from the inside out, using a small convex object to tension the fabric: it can be either a special fungus for darning, or an ordinary incandescent light bulb or a perfume bottle of a suitable shape. Please note that the threads should not be taut, as after washing they can sit down a little and pull the fabric.

Don't worry if you feel like the threads are too loose, this feeling will disappear when you start skipping. working thread between warp threads. If the fabric is not torn, but simply worn out and thinner, it is enough to lay only the equity stitches.

Dense darning

Start by shaping the base of the darning, to do this, turn the fabric over to the wrong side and lay small stitches (about 1 mm) along the edge of the hole, stepping back from it 8 mm. When you reach the edge of the hole, simply pass a stitch over it and continue sewing on the other side in the same way as in the previous rows, while the stitches should be staggered (fig.).

Rice. Darning warp

Having finished with the base, start laying the transverse rows in the same way as you worked earlier. When sewing stitches over the hole, pick up one warp thread, pass the needle over the next, pick up the next thread, etc. (rice.). Lay the stitches as close together as possible.

Rice. Sewing cross stitches

Satin darning

Very often, the surfaces of plain fabrics are made more interesting due to the interlacing of the warp threads. For this reason, the usual dense darning looks alien on them, so craftswomen resort to satin darning, which is also called diagonal, imitating a pattern on the fabric.

To begin, lay the same base as described above, and then lay the cross stitches, consistent with the pattern on the fabric.

For example, take a fabric with diagonal stripes. To simulate them, simply pass the working thread under several warp threads (for example, three) and over the required number of the following threads (for example, one) (Fig.).

Rice. Satin darning

Patterned darning

This type of darning is similar to the previous one, but due to the different interweaving of threads, various patterns are created on the surface of the fabric (Fig.).

In this case, you can even imitate colored patterns, but then you have to use threads of different colors.

The basis for such a darning is made to match the main color of the product, and then the pattern is laid with a working thread desired color, capturing a certain number of warp threads.

Invisible darning

This type of darning is only possible if the edges of the hole fit snugly together, as, for example, happens when cutting.

Just carefully baste the edges of the hole from the wrong side, without cutting off the protruding threads, as this can widen the hole.

Then lay small stitches, moving from one side of the hole to the other and grabbing the threads only from the wrong side of the fabric so that the seam is not visible from the face (fig.).

Darning on a sewing machine

If you have a sewing machine, you can also darn with it. The easiest way to do this is if you have a special foot (fig.).

If it was not in the set, do not be discouraged, you can darn a thing without this device.

Start by removing the presser foot (unless you have a dedicated darning foot), then lower the feed dog teeth. The prepared product (all freely hanging threads and frayed places must be cut off) tuck into the hoop (Fig.).

Rice. Hooping a damaged item

Set the machine to a straight stitch, and the stitch size is not critical as the feed dog does not function. Then insert the needle into the fabric and pull up the thread from the hook. Lower the presser foot lever even though it has been removed to ensure proper thread tension.

Stitch along the hole, moving the hoop carefully so as not to break the needle. Then slowly and carefully move the hoop towards you, and then in the opposite direction, laying long stitches over the hole (you need to work along the shared thread). After making a stitch, be sure to secure the thread by sewing 8-10 mm of undamaged fabric. Rotate the work 180° and evenly fill in the entire damaged area in the same way.

When you're done with the split stitches, turn the work at a right angle and start darning the weft. If the darning needs to be especially strong, for example, on hard coarse fabrics, it makes sense to darn the product also diagonally.

In order to move on to machine operations, we first need to perform manual operations. To do this, we use the same threads with which we will make machine stitches in the future. With the help of long stitches, close to each other, we tighten the edges of the torn denim. We tighten the edges not much, so that there is no crease in the corners of the gap.


This is how we get a simple seam.

Next, we need to cut out jeans from a patch (any piece of material, both flesilin and dublerin can also serve as this detail, but since we most often cannot find it at home, we will use any patch). The piece of fabric should be slightly longer than length gap.


Next, we pin this patch - a patch so that it covers the seam from the wrong side. It is advisable to use pins with ears, and not with a bead at the end, since the bead will interfere with you very much in the future. If you don't have sewing pins, you can secure the piece of fabric by simply basting it.


Now boldly move on to the jeans thing on sewing machine. Starting from one end, sew a zigzag stitch. We lay the line as often as possible and closer to each other. If the machine does not have a reverse motion mechanism, then you will have to raise the foot each time and turn the product around ... if your machine has a reverse motion lever, then everything is much simpler. By pressing it at the right moment, your machine will give a line back.

When the backing piece is attached enough with machine stitching, you can safely remove the pins. And continue to work until you see that the hole is completely sewn up.

This is what the patch looks like from the wrong side.

We cut off the extra edges not captured by machine lines.


Ready-made patch on jeans between the legs from the wrong side.


Ready-made darning jeans from the front side.


The final result of do-it-yourself jeans stuffing.

Such work will take you a maximum of 20-30 minutes, and save your waste. More often, such tears occur in places where jeans are most often rubbed.

Machine darning is great way save your favorite jeans! Machine darning will also help you mend a torn blouse or skirt and extend the life of your items.

We will tell you how machine darning is done on different types sewing machines and, using the example of a pair of jeans, we will show how to do machine darning with your own hands.

Machine darning: preparation for work

How to darn clothes on a sewing machine? This is done differently on different machines. Most modern sewing machines have a special darning mode. In addition to special types of darning stitches, there are also special presser feet. These feet can be used for both darning and quilting (decorative stitching). On some models, the darning mode works with the automatic buttonhole foot.

If you have a "reverse" (reverse) button, you can sew a regular machine stitch, and then sew in the opposite direction. If there is no reverse on your machine, you will have to unfold the fabric manually.

We recommend darning with a fabric backing of the same weight. In this case, the line will lie flat, and the lower conveyor will work as usual. You can also strengthen the gap with adhesive cushioning material, however, using a piece of fabric will make the darning more reliable and durable. Choose a patch of similar color or slightly lighter.

The choice of thread plays a very important role in machine darning. Your task is to choose threads that are as similar in color to the main fabric as possible. In this case, the result of darning will be as invisible as possible. If you cannot find the exact shade, it is better to choose a lighter shade than a dark one.

Denim clothing can be not only imperceptibly darned, but also decorated with such darning. You can darn with contrasting threads or make it over a patch of a different color so that it is visible from the front of the product.

So, let's find out how to darn clothes on a sewing machine with your own hands!

Progress

Prepare a piece of suitable fabric a little larger than the frayed area.

Cut off excess threads sticking out along the edges of the fray with scissors.

Start stitching from a whole part of the fabric, stepping back from the fraying at least 5 mm. In the absence of a special program, use the "reverse" (line in the opposite direction), shifting the line slightly to the side.

If your machine has a darning program, attach the presser foot indicated in the instructions. Start stitching with a whole piece of fabric and follow the sewing machine instructions.

(74271) - Elena Karpova, 02/26/2008

Hand darning- delicate and painstaking work that requires time, patience, eye strain. The sewing machine will allow you to darn quickly and efficiently. Of course, we are not talking about artistic darning, which makes the damaged area invisible on good, expensive clothes. It is better to do it manually. Rugged and reliable machine darning is good for repairing home, work, sportswear , backpacks, tourist tents, as well as bed linen.

Darn you can learn on any sewing machine- old straight stitch, modern multi-operation, manual, foot, electric. For this work, you need to remove the presser foot and lower the teeth of the conveyor that moves the fabric while sewing.

Prepare the thing for repair: cut off the threads sticking out along the edges of the gap, cut out worn, frayed places. Stretch the patch of fabric to be repaired onto the hoop.

Small plastic hoops with a diameter of 15 cm and a height of no more than 8 mm are best suited for this (higher ones are difficult to remove from under the needle). Pick up the threads to match the fabric.

Adjust sewing machine for a normal straight stitch. The set stitch length is irrelevant because the feed dog is lowered. The thread tension is the same as for normal sewing. Put hoop under the needle Dip it into the fabric at the edge of the tear and pull up the bobbin thread from the hook up through the fabric. Even though there is no presser foot, be sure to lower the presser foot lifter to maintain tension on the upper thread.

Now begin by moving the hoop to stitch along the edge of the gap. Please note that when the feed teeth are lowered, you can sew the seam not only forward, but also to the side, and at any angle. direction. True, you will have to monitor the uniformity of the line yourself. Guide the hoop smoothly, without jerking, and try not to bend the needle when it is in the fabric.

A special foot is available for beginner embroiderers and darners. It is included with some machines. Darning foot and embroidery is designed so that its spring presses the fabric when the needle is down and releases when the needle is up. Thanks to this, you can work without fear of bending the needle. True, experienced seamstresses do not use such paws, as they believe that this can slow down work.

But now you have processed the entire circumference of the gap with strong stitches. Now begin to move the hoop towards you - away from you straight through the gap in the direction of the equity threads of the material. Do this slowly and evenly. Perhaps such a proposal will confuse you: how to sew over an empty space? Still, try it and you will see: the upper and lower threads of the machine, stretching from one edge of the gap to the other, form neat intertwined flagella. Try to arrange them as evenly as possible to fill the entire hole. When you get to the undamaged edge, stitch about 1 cm across the healthy fabric, and then begin to move the hoop back. After finishing the entire gap in this way, turn the hoop 90° and darn it in the transverse direction. When repairing thick, stiff fabrics, it is worth sewing the stitches also at an angle of 45 °, and then turn the hoop 90 ° again and darn on the other diagonal.

How to patch with a sewing machine

Darn allows you to repair small damage. But even with a precisely matched color, machine darning is quite noticeable. Made look much neater using sewing machine patches.

If you have a simple straight stitch machine, patching is done like this. Cut out an even rectangle around the damaged area, one of the sides of which should coincide with the direction of the longitudinal thread of the fabric. Make 0.5 cm cuts at the corners of the rectangle.

Fold the edges of the rectangle inside out to form a frame and baste or pin them. Prepare the patch for the patch. Its dimensions should be several centimeters larger than the cut out rectangle. Fold the edges of the flap over about 0.5 cm. Cut the corners obliquely so that there are no thickenings when folding.

Place the flap on the hole on the wrong side of the product so that the directions of the longitudinal threads coincide. The folded edges of the patch and holes should remain inside, between the main fabric and the patch. They should not be visible from the front. Baste the patch.

And the last thing - lay two lines on the machine, along the edge of the flap and along the edge of the inner frame, retreating from the folds by 1 mm. So the patch is ready, albeit a little noticeable, but durable, not afraid of repeated washings, equally neat both from the front and from the wrong side.

On a sewing machine, which performs a zigzag stitch, patch even easier and faster. In this case, you do not even need to bend their edges. Choose a patch slightly larger than the hole for the patch. Lay it on the area to be repaired so that the directions of the grain threads coincide, and bast it to the fabric or pin it with pins. Lay a "zagzag" line along the contour of the rectangle, stepping back from the edge of the flap by 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Now, stepping back another 1 - 2 cm inward, perform a similar operation along the contour of the smaller rectangle. Remove the basting or pins. The damaged area was enclosed in a frame of two zigzag stitches. It remains only to cut out the inner rectangle with the damaged area, and cut the outer edge of the patch along the outer zigzag seam. The seam will not allow the threads of the fabric to crumble during washing and does not form excessive thickness. The line should not be too frequent, a step of 2 - 3 mm is enough. The height varies based on the thickness and texture of the fabric. To avoid thread shedding, at least 5 to 6 warp or weft threads of fabric should be placed at stitch height.

Evaluate whether it is possible to repair your product using the darning method. The size of the damaged area should be no more than 7 cm in diameter for machine darning and 3-4 cm for hand darning. To perform machine darning, cut off a piece of fabric 1-1.5 cm larger than the damaged area in each direction from the prepared piece of fabric. Lay this patch to the darning area of ​​the product from the inside and baste with hand stitches along the contour. The direction of the warp and weft threads on the product and the flap must match. On the front side of the product, mark the repair area with chalk. Thread the sewing machine with cotton thread in the color of the fabric. Wind the same thread onto the bobbin.

How to darn on a typewriter? Place the product with the damaged area under the machine foot, lower the needle into the fabric in the area of ​​the drawn line on one side of the damaged area and sew the stitch through the defective place to the opposite side of the drawn outline, then reverse and sew the stitch back with a slight offset. Continue sewing in this manner until you have sewn a series of stitches close to the direction of the warp threads. Then turn the product 90 degrees and sew a series of stitches with segments close to the direction of the weft threads. It should be remembered that the closer the lines are located relative to each other, the denser and stiffer the repaired section of the product will become. At the end of the darning, remove the basting thread, clear the drawn lines and iron the repaired area.

How to darn by hand? You can not use the flap to strengthen the damaged area. Choose from specialty darning threads in your desired color or plain sewing thread 2-2.5 times thicker than the threads that make up the defective product. Thread a hand darning needle with one thread, tie a knot at the end. Hoop the damaged area in the hoop or pull it over a darning fungus. Start darning with longitudinal stitches along the direction of the warp threads, going beyond the borders of the hole by at least 2.5 cm, trying to weave the thread into the structure of the fabric. When finished working in one direction, sew a series of stitches parallel to the weft threads, "bypassing" the warp threads from the front and the wrong side with an imitation of plain weave, that is, in a checkerboard pattern. Darn with the density that matches the fabric of the product. Finish by ironing the area.

Tips: Don't waste time darning old clothes. For darning loose materials, take the threads from the seam allowances and try to repeat the weave of the fabric, then the darning will become less noticeable.