DIY homemade pants. Women's pajama pants with belt and French double seam

The nuances of sewing women's trousers. Patterns and descriptions.

A person cannot do without many things in his daily life. This includes a house, vehicles, and money. However, the most banal thing is without clothes.

Nowadays, the fashion industry is so firmly rooted in people's consciousness that even those of us who do not follow the latest trends on the world's catwalks are still influenced by its street manifestations.

It is important for women to create with their hands. In this way, we bring beauty to the world around us, influence the emotions and feelings of beauty in the people around us.

In previous articles, we have delved into crafting topics such as knitting and crochet.

Today we will dwell on the nuances of sewing women's trousers of different models.

What material is best to make summer trousers from?

Blue-and-white striped cotton is an excellent material for sewing women's summer trousers

For summer trouser models, a number of their abilities are important:

• let air through
• be light and pleasant to the body
• maintain its shape as much as possible during wear

In general, all types of fabrics can be divided into 2 categories:

• natural
• artificial

For sewing summer trousers from first category fabrics, the following are ideal:

• cotton

Along with the properties of moisture absorption and free air circulation, there is a significant “minus” - they wrinkle quickly.

• polyester
• viscose

These fabrics retain the advantages of the previous ones and also have no disadvantages. They hold their shape perfectly and do not wrinkle.

A combined fabric option suitable for trousers for all occasions and seasons is denim.

How to sew summer women's trousers with a good fit from linen with your own hands step by step: instructions, pattern

several options for summer women's linen trousers for girls

Take note of several nuances when choosing linen as a material for sewing trousers:

• material shrinkage up to 10%, so add this percentage when creating a drawing
• stretching during wear, which disappears after washing
• preparing fabric before cutting and sewing, namely soaking and drying

Instructions for sewing linen trousers with a good fit look like this:

• Take your measurements carefully and write them down. Required values ​​for the volume of the hips, waist, total length of the legs and to the knees, crotch, and seat height.
• Create a basic pattern, which will then be useful to you for cutting any subsequent types of trousers. As an example, let's add the finished drawing below.

ready-made pattern of women's linen trousers with a comfortable fit

• Be careful with the symbols that are used in different sources when constructing a drawing of future trousers.
• Cut out all the details of the drawing and transfer them to the fabric using chalk or a bar of soap.
• Consider seam allowances. On average, add 1-1.5 cm to the edges of the lines.
• Cut out the pieces from the fabric and lay them out on a flat, horizontal surface.
• Pin the pieces together before sewing each seam. To be on the safe side, you can baste them by hand.
• After stitching, remove pins and auxiliary threads.
• The order of stitching the parts may look like this - trouser legs, codpiece, pockets, belt, hem of the trousers.
• Be sure to try on your pants as you work. This way you will minimize the time it takes to alter them and avoid damage to the fabric.
• Use a hot iron to iron each seam in the order recommended by the source from which you took the trouser model.
• Wash your finished trousers using a detergent that is best suited for linen items.
• Dry them and iron them again.

How to sew a codpiece and fly on women's trousers: patterns with descriptions, photos

codpiece at the stage of sewing to trousers and zippers on women's trousers

The codpiece for women's trousers is made by seamstresses at the stage of completing the assembly of each trouser leg separately.

When you have connected all the seams according to the patterns, decide on the width of the protruding part of the codpiece.

For example, pay attention to his patterns.

codpiece pattern for sewing women's trousers, option 1

codpiece pattern for sewing women's trousers, option 2

codpiece pattern for sewing women's trousers, option 3

• Prepare 2 parts of the future fly, which you should sew to the seams on the front of each leg.
• Or leave wide allowances on each leg to form a codpiece. So for the left one 4.5-5 cm is enough, and for the right one - 1.5 cm.
• To maintain the rigidity and shape of this part of the trousers, reinforce each part with double tape.
• Take strips 0.5 cm narrower and shorter than the fabric.
• After basting, secure the result with an iron.
• Be sure to think about the slope. It will allow the zipper to slide easily without pinching your skin or clothing.
• Sew on the zipper in stages, just like the codpiece. First, baste seams, then machine stitch.

More photos of finished codpieces on women's trousers below.

ready-made codpiece on women's trousers, sewn by hand, option 1

ready-made codpiece on women's trousers, sewn by hand, option 2

ready-made codpiece on women's trousers, sewn by hand, option 3

ready-made codpiece on women's trousers, sewn by hand, option 4

ready-made codpiece on women's trousers, sewn by hand, option 5

How to sew pockets on women's trousers: patterns with descriptions, photos

sewn pockets to semi-finished women's trousers

Pockets on women's trousers play a different role - from decorative to necessary.

That’s why the patterns for them are different, and the depth, and the method of attaching them to the legs.

The pictures below show a number of finished pockets.

ready-made pockets on hand-sewn women's trousers, example 1

ready-made pockets on hand-sewn women's trousers, example 2

ready-made pockets on hand-sewn women's trousers, example 3

ready-made pockets on hand-sewn women's trousers, example 4

ready-made pockets on hand-sewn women's trousers, example 5

ready-made pockets on hand-sewn women's trousers, example 6

ready-made pockets on hand-sewn women's trousers, example 7

ready-made pockets on hand-sewn women's trousers, example 8 ready-made pockets on hand-sewn women's trousers, example 9

And variations of detailed patterns for them.

pocket patterns for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 1

pocket patterns for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 2

pocket patterns for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 3

pocket patterns for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 4

pocket patterns for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 5

pocket patterns for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 6

pocket patterns for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 7

pocket patterns for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 8

pocket patterns for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 9

General points when making pockets for women's trousers:

• burlap, consisting of 2 parts
• inserts made of the main material that hide the burlap
• step-by-step sewing of each part to the trousers
• processing different types of seams

How to sew a belt on women's trousers: patterns with descriptions, photos

sewn belt on handmade women's trousers

A belt is a must-have on tailored trousers. Even if it is thin, it still keeps them in the right place.

Usually, to create it, craftswomen prepare:

• duct tape
• doublerin
• measuring tape

For more details on the technique and step-by-step technology for making a belt, see below.

belt pattern for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 1

belt pattern for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 2

belt pattern for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 3

belt pattern for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 4

belt pattern for hand-sewn women's trousers, option 5

We also add a photo of the finished part.

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 1

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 2 photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 3

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 4

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 5

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 6

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 7

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 8

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 9

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 10

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 11

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 12

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 13

photo of finished belts on sewn women's trousers, option 14

How to sew women's classic trousers?

several models of women's classic trousers on girls

Before you start sewing trousers, consider a number of preparatory points:

• Accuracy of measurements is achieved only when measuring the body in underwear.
• Drawing up an individual drawing of trousers for your size.
• Quality and properties of fabric.
  Be sure to check before cutting it that the fabric is not shrinking. To do this, just iron a small piece of fabric.
• The next stage is a drawing of future trousers.

Having chosen the model you like in a magazine/on the Russian Internet, be prepared for differences when creating a drawing for them based on your measurements. This happens due to the lack of consideration of the nuances of each specific figure.
The fashion designer who developed the drawing for specific trousers focuses on a slender model up to size 46 with a height of up to 175 cm.

Take graph paper to create a drawing of your dress pants.

Apply markings from the main points:

• waist
• pant leg height
• length to the buttocks in a sitting position, or the height of the seat of the trousers
• knees
• half waist circumference
• semi-hip circumference

• codpiece
• waist line
• darts
• lines of knees and bottom of trousers

For a detailed description of the construction of a drawing of classic women's trousers, see websites and magazines dedicated to tailoring, for example, Burda.

Note that the pattern of classic trousers, created by you yourself, can be used as a basis for modeling other types of trousers.

If you decide to use a ready-made drawing of trousers as a basis, make large seam allowances on all sides. After trying on the product for the first time, you can easily adjust it to suit you using these allowances.

How to sew women's banana trousers?

bright summer banana trousers, hand-sewn, on girl models

This type of trouser has a wide part in the hip area. It can drape or smoothly transition into trouser legs that taper towards the bottom.

From the nuances of modeling patterns for them, we denote the following:

• take as a basis a drawing for classic trousers that you have already made for yourself
• widen their front part along the waist line by 2-3 cm
• draw a new side line
• model the belt and pockets separately on a sheet of paper
• mark the lines of the pocket, its entrance and its burlap
• shorten the bottom of the legs by 8-10 cm
• mark the stitching line for the zipper
• draw a separate belt for trousers no narrower than 6 cm long, equal to the waist circumference plus the width of the darts and allowances for folds

• 2 front halves
• 2 rear halves
• 2 cut-off barrels, cut together with burlap pockets
• 2 pieces burlap pocket
• 4 parts for the belt
• 6 parts of belt loops with parameters 3x7 cm

The exact order of sewing banana trousers looks like this:

• make pockets on the front halves of future trousers
• baste the darts on the back halves and press them to the back and middle seams
• connect the trouser parts along the inside, side and middle seams
• sew in a zipper
• insert the thermal fabric onto the outer parts of the belt, and place the doublerin inside
• sew a belt to your trousers
• Turn up the bottom of each leg and hand-baste with a blind seam
• baste loops on the belt

How to sew women's maternity pants?

hand-sewn gray trousers on a pregnant girl

The peculiarity of this model is the presence of a wide knitted insert on the front of the trousers.

Depending on the type of fabric, you can model this insert only for the front halves of the trousers or:

• along the side seams
• mark a semicircle, 4-5 cm away from them

The bottom line or point of the jersey insert is where the crotch seam loses its curve and becomes a straight line.

• Consider the location of the zipper, if necessary, on one of the side seams.
• For a knitted insert, choose cotton fabric with a low percentage of elastane. Then it will stretch as the tummy grows and maintain the shape of the fit of the trousers.
• Please note that it is better to sew the knitwear in 2 layers before sewing it to the trousers of summer models. Or 4 - if you are creating them for wearing in winter.

How to sew women's insulated trousers using synthetic padding?

The girl is wearing insulated trousers that she sewed with her own hands

Firstly, your usual list of necessary materials is transformed with the addition:

• fleece
• padding polyester
• wide belt with elastic band
• cuffs for the bottom of the trousers

And the main fabric for trousers will be replaced with jacket fabric.

Secondly, the drawing will change:

• Lower the seat line by 10-13 cm along the inner seams.
• Extend your waistline so that your hips fit easily through it. That is, add centimeters from each side of the pants, for example, 5 cm.
• Lengthen the legs by 5-7 cm and widen to fit the circumference of the boot.
• Cut out the main fabric according to the received drawing, adding allowances for vertical seams of 1.5 cm, horizontal seams of 1 cm.
• Cut out pieces from fleece. Consider the direction of the grunt from top to bottom.
• Using the fleece blanks, cut out the padding polyester.
• Sew the main fabric and padding polyester together.
• Perform the first fitting and identify areas that require adjustments.
• Eliminate them.
• Prepare the parts for the pockets.
• Open the side seams of the pants and sew in the pockets.
• Sew on the fleece lining.
• Process the bottom of the pants. If desired, sew zippers on them.
• Open the belt, insert an elastic band into it and sew along the waist line.

How to sew women's trousers in oriental style?

a girl in hand-sewn oriental trousers runs along the sand

Oriental style trousers are interesting not only for everyday wear, but also for business style. Their distinctive feature is a wide, loose cut without hugging the legs.

So, to sew a bloomer you should either:

• significantly expand the main trouser pattern for your size, turning the trouser legs into rectangles,
• model them directly on fabric. However, this method is suitable for experienced seamstresses.

Separately cut out the wide ones:

• cuffs

Take into account seam allowances and areas that may require adjustments after fitting.

• Baste and stitch the trouser pieces along the main seams.
• Add an elastic band to the waistband detail before sewing it to the main fabric.
• Connect the belt and cuffs, stretching them along the line of the main fabric. Then you will have a beautiful drapery.

If you like the half-harem pants model, when the trouser legs taper towards the bottom, create a new drawing and bring it to life.

How to sew women's trousers with elastic?

ready-made white women's trousers with elastic on a girl

These trousers differ in style, namely:

• straight
• with elastic cuffs
• tapered to the bottom

In addition, such models of trousers may or may not have pockets.

• Therefore, in each case there is a difference in the patterns.
• Take the drawing of trousers in your size as a basis.
• Extend your waistline to the width of your hips.
• Model the belt, pockets, cuffs. Or only those details that you planned for the trousers.
• Cut out the fabric.
• Consider seam allowances.
• Sew the main parts of the future trousers.
• Insert an elastic band into the waistband and stitch it together.
• Stretch the waistband while connecting to the trousers.

Follow the same procedure if your model has cuffs on the legs. Otherwise, just finish the edges by folding 1 cm of fabric inward and hemming it.

If your trousers have pockets, before joining the side seams, insert the pocket using the technique discussed in the first sections of the article.

How to sew large size women's trousers for obese women?

plump woman in tight dark trousers, sewn with her own hands

You should definitely create a drawing of such trousers for yourself, taking into account all the features of your figure.

Choose the following models:

• with tapered legs
• wide trousers that hide ankles and shins that tend to be overweight
• high-rise, figure-hugging
• Sultanahs made of fabrics with small floral prints
• long capris

If you like pockets, place them at mid-thigh level.

• When creating a drawing of future trousers, stock up on plenty of paper.
• One of the nuances of sewing plus size trousers for curvy women is to press the seams before sewing them together. Pay special attention to the buttocks and thighs area.

When sewing trousers for the cold season, choose warm, thin materials, such as denim and thin wool.

How to sew homemade women's trousers without a pattern with your own hands?

straight homemade women's trousers on a girl, which were sewn with her own hands

The most important thing is to take correct measurements before cutting the trousers onto the fabric.

You will need measurements such as:

• waist and hip circumferences
• full length from waist to hem to knee
• saddle length - from the points on the waist in front through the crotch to the back
• seat depth

At the waist and hips, increase the measurements by 5-7 cm. Take the circumferences of the knees and ankles to 20 and 17 cm, respectively.

• If you like your trousers looser, use wider seam allowances.
• Using a ruler and chalk, draw the pattern of future trousers on the fabric. Add seam allowances of 1-1.5 cm.

Decide on the method of attaching the belt at the waist:

• rubber
• drawstring

In the first case, insert the elastic until the belt is sewn to the main fabric.

In the second, thread the cord and make a hole for tying it in front on the front or back sides.

So, we looked at the features of constructing patterns and sewing women's trousers of different styles that are relevant for our time. We decided on the nuances of cutting pockets, a codpiece, and a belt for them.

Although there are a number of models of women's trousers that are easy to perform by experienced seamstresses. However, even novice needlewomen can handle these for home and sleep.

Even your seams!

Video: how to sew women's banana trousers?

Opening a new topic “Creating patterns for men's clothing”. Let's go from simple to complex.

Let's start by creating a pattern for pajama pants. Using the same pattern, you can sew any lounge pants, Bermuda shorts or summer shorts.

Our men can also try their hand at sewing.

To do this we need three measurements. For example, we use standard size 50 measurements, and you take measurements from the figure of the person for whom you are going to sew these pajamas.

Pants length db...................104 cm

Half waist circumference St.......42 cm

Half hip circumference Sat......50 cm

The amount of increase for a loose fit depends on the degree of desired fit to the figure, on the type, composition and properties of the fabric.

Pajamas are clothes that are designed to fit loosely enough to provide comfort first and foremost. Therefore, instead of a tight belt, we provide for processing the upper section of the trousers with a drawstring with an elastic band, which will allow you to adjust the tightness of the fit. The drawstring can be one-piece with the main parts of the trousers or cut off. This should be taken into account when constructing a pattern or directly during cutting. The main thing is not to forget about this.

CONSTRUCTION OF A DRAWING OF PAJAMA PANTS PATTERNS.

FRONT HALF OF PANTS.

In the upper left corner we draw a right angle and denote the vertex with the letter T.

Length trousers. Bottom line.

From point T downwards we set aside the taken measurement of the length of the trousers. In our example, it is 104 cm, and you set aside your measurement and put point H.

TN = db = 104 cm.

From point H to the right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

Seat height.

From point T down, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the hips plus 3 cm and place point Z.

TY = Sat: 2 + 3cm = 50: 2 + 3 = 28cm.

ATTENTION: You substitute your hip half-circumference value into the formula and make your calculation.

From point I to the right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

From point H upward we set aside 1/2 of the distance YH plus 6 cm and place point K.

NK = YAN: 2 + 6cm = 76: 2 + 6 = 44cm.

You measure the YAN segment on your drawing and make a calculation.

From point K to the right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

Width of the front half.

From point I to the right, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the hips plus 6 cm and place point I1.

RY1 = 1/2 Sat + 6 cm = 50: 2 + 6 = 31 cm.

From point H1 we lower the perpendicular to the bottom line and place point H1. The point of intersection with the knee line is designated by the letter K1.

From point T to the right, set aside 1/2 of the waist circumference plus 6 cm and place point T1.

TT1 = 1/2 St + 6 cm = 42: 2 + 6 = 27 cm.

And don’t forget to substitute your values ​​into the formula.

From point T1 we lower the perpendicular to the line РЯ1 and denote the point of intersection with the horizontal РЯ1 with the letter Р2.

The line of the upper cut of the front half of the trousers (the line of attaching the belt).

From point T to the right, set aside 2 cm (for all sizes) and place point T2.

From point T1 we set aside 1 cm downwards (for all sizes) and place point T3.

We connect points T2 and T3 with a straight line.

From point H to the right, set aside 3 cm (for all sizes) and place point H2.

From point T down, set aside 18 cm (for all sizes) and place point B. This point determines the position of the hip line.

We draw up the side line. To do this, we connect points T2, B, Z and H2.

From point H2 upward we set aside 6 cm (for all sizes) and place point C.

And again, from point H2 along the bisector of the angle to the right, we set aside 2.5 - 3 cm (for all sizes) and place point C1.

We connect points C, C1 and R1 with a smooth line.

Thus, the middle cut of the front half of the trousers will pass from point T3, then through points C, C1 and R1.

Step-by-step cut of the front half.

Along the bottom line from point H1 to the left, set aside 3 cm (for all sizes), put point H3 and connect it with a straight line to point H1.

Connect H2 and H3 with a straight line.

The segment H2H3 defines the bottom line of the front half.

This completes the construction of the front half of the pajama pants.

BACK HALF OF TROUSERS

We start constructing the back half of the trousers from a right angle in the upper right corner with the apex at point T4.

Length trousers. Bottom line.

Down from point T4 we place the measurement for the length of the trousers. In our example, it is 104 cm, and you set aside your measurement and put point H4.

T4H4 = Db = 104 cm. From point H4 to the left, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

From point T4 to the left we set aside 1/2 the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips plus 6 cm and place point T5.

T4T5=1/2 Sat+6 cm= 50:2+6=31 cm.

And don’t forget to substitute your values ​​into the formula.

From point T5 we lower the perpendicular to the bottom line and mark the intersection point with the letter H5.

Seat height.

Just like on the front half of the trousers, the seat height is determined by calculation. From point T5 downwards we set aside 1/2 of the semicircle of the hips plus 3 cm and place point H3.

T5Y3=1/2 Sat+3 cm=50:2+3=28 cm.

And don’t forget to substitute your values ​​into the formula.

We draw a horizontal line through point Y3 and mark the point of intersection with the vertical T4H4 with the letter Y4.

The line of the upper cut of the back half of the trousers (the line of attaching the belt).

We divide the segment T4T5 in half, put point T6. From this point upward we draw a perpendicular 4 cm long (for all sizes) and place point T7.

Extend line T5T4 to the right and from point T7, using a compass, make a notch on it with a radius equal to 1/2 of the waist half-circumference plus 2 cm and place point T8.

See the picture below. T7T8 = 1/2 St + 2 cm = 23 cm.

And don’t forget to substitute your values ​​into the formula.

From point T8 through point T7 we draw a straight line, extending it to the left of point T7 by 5 cm (for all sizes) and place point T9.

Middle cut of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points T9 and R3 with a straight line. From point R3 up along the same line we lay off 1/3 of the segment R3T9 and place point C2.

From point C2 to the right at a right angle we set aside 1.5 cm and place point C3.

From point R3, continuing the horizontal line to the left, set aside 1/4 of the segment R3R4 and place point R5.

R3R5 = 1/4 R3R4 = 31: 4 = 7.8 cm.

You substitute your values ​​into the formula.

We divide the segment R3R5 in half and from the division point downwards at a right angle we set aside 1 cm (for all sizes) and put the point R6.

We draw up the middle line of the back half of the trousers by connecting points T9, C3, R3, R6 and R5. Look at the picture below.

From point H4 upward we set aside 1/2 of the distance R4H4 plus 6 cm and place point K2.

From point K2 to the left we draw a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the vertical T5H5 is designated by the letter K3.

From point H5 to the left, along the continuation of the bottom line, set aside 1 cm and place point H6.

From point K3 to the left, on the continuation of the knee line, set aside 4 cm and place point K4.

K3K4 =4 cm (for all sizes).

We connect points R5 and K4 with a straight line and divide this segment in half. We denote the division point with the letter B and from it to the right at a right angle we set aside 0.5 cm and place point B1.

We make a step-by-step cut of the back half of the trousers, connecting points H5, B1, K4 and H6. Look at the picture below.

From point H4 to the left we set aside 6 cm and place point H7.

By connecting points T8 and H7, we form the side cut of the back half of the trousers.

The segment H5H7 defines the bottom line of the back half of the trousers.

This completes the construction of the pattern for men's pajama trousers.

The resulting drawing can be used as a basis for further modeling. Using simple techniques, you can use it to create a wide variety of styles of trousers, Bermuda shorts, shorts, etc.

IMPORTANT! Don't forget to make a double allowance for the elastic at the top edge. The size of the allowance will depend on the width of the elastic and the number of rows. You can cut the belt separately, sew the required number of lines, insert an elastic band and sew the finished belt to the trousers. The choice is always yours, and options are always possible!

Cutting details

In our article, all figures are given as an example only. You can change any and use the values ​​that suit your case. For example, by increasing the allowance for a loose fit, we get looser trousers and vice versa.

This is just one of the variety of options for constructing men's trousers that exist and which we will master.

We will tell you how to create a pattern for the pajama top in the next article.

The one who walks will master the road! I wish you good speed!

Hello, my dear readers of the blog “site”. Now we will sew fashionable trousers with a low seat line and 7/8 length.

The following ready-made pattern for downloading is designed for the following sizes:

• St=38
• Sat=50
• Height to knee from waist=56
• Half knee circumference=22
• Pants width at the bottom = 33 cm (for narrow calves)
• Pants length 93 cm.

If you fit the hips, then you can adjust the rest of the measurements.

If you want to build trouser pattern for yourself, be sure to read these two articles:

They walk you through the entire process step by step. constructing trouser patterns according to your measurements.

Download the pattern and cut out the parts from the fabric. I sew from non-stretch suit fabric. You can take any suit or denim, according to your desire.

We cut out the details of the pocket and the slope (it will need to be built using a codpiece pattern). Let's look at this point a little later.

We connect both halves of the trousers (front and back) from knee reference point first up, then down. We fasten with pins or baste.

We machine sew both halves of the trousers. This is what you should get:

Now we will process the bottom of the trousers. Initially, I placed 2 cm allowances at the bottom so that 1 cm could be folded twice. First turn up the bottom of the trousers by 1 cm. Let's iron this place.

Then we turn it in another 1 cm. Iron it.

Once again, iron the finished bottom of the trousers.

Now you need to process the zipper in the trousers and make a belt.

We sew the belt to the trousers using a machine.

We turn the belt inside out so that both parts (outer and inner) are face to face. Now you need to sew up the sides of the belt so that they smoothly merge into the codpiece. We baste and stitch the sides of the waistband along the allowance line. (as in the photo on the right)

Now we bend the allowances to the side of the belt and tuck the allowances of the inner belt so as to slightly cover the seam of attaching the belt to the trousers with the inner belt. It is advisable to redraw this seam by 2 mm, then you will get a neat inner part of the belt.

Now the important point. We sew from the front side into the seam of attaching the belt to the trousers. This way we will sew the inner belt to the outer one, and all the allowances will remain inside, and there will be a beautiful inner trim of the trousers.

It’s just very important to hit this seam exactly. To do this, we move the belt and the trousers themselves apart (as if we pull them) in different directions. Then we will iron the belt and this line will not be visible if you do everything carefully.

But there are not enough loops on the belt where we can put the belt.

Now it's time to make a loop and sew a button on the trousers.

To do this, we will use a special buttonhole foot. We insert our button into the foot, put the foot into the machine. Don't forget to lower the special thing down so that it stops the machine's progress and points it in the opposite direction.

The machine has a special loop mode, as in the photo below.

And of course, do not make a buttonhole on your trousers right away, but practice first several times on the same fabric with which you are sewing your trousers. Since the loop may need to be adjusted.

We made a loop on the trousers.

And they sewed on a button.

P.S. Although I built them for myself, I wanted them to have a low seam (I lowered the seat line by 5 cm from the natural one), but this turned out to be too much in the finished product. This may depend on the quality and density of the fabric. In any case, you can adjust this moment if necessary (hem the excess from the inside).

Watch also a video about how to sew new trousers without a pattern, using your favorite ones as a basis old pants:

I hope you liked the article and if you sewed trousers, they will bring you many joyful moments!! Sew with me!

Women's pajama pants are a suitable first project for those just starting to sew clothes. The loose silhouette and elastic waistband do not require any special adjustment to your figure, and our detailed master class will tell you how to make a simple pattern and carefully perform a French seam.

Using the same sewing method, you can sew not only women's pajama pants, but also pants for the whole family.

Women's pajama pants: choosing fabric and preparing for work.

The offered model is made of natural cotton. For winter pajamas, you can take thin flannel; for autumn or spring, chintz is suitable.

When making underwear and sleepwear, use only natural fabric!

Before purchasing fabric, create a pattern in order to accurately determine the amount of fabric required. Measure the width of the legs of the front and back halves at the widest point, add them together and multiply by 2. Add another 12 cm for allowances. If the resulting figure is less than the width of the fabric, you will need to buy a piece equal to one length of the trousers plus 10 cm for the waistband and allowances, or twice as much if the width of the fabric is smaller.

For the belt, you will also need an elastic band 1 cm wide and a length equal to the waist circumference minus 3 cm. To create the pattern, you will need sample trousers. These can be either pajama pants or any other trousers and even shorts. The main thing is that they fit in width, and you can change the length as you wish.

When creating a pattern, keep in mind that sleepwear should always be sewn loose. Trace the sample, departing from the edge from 3 to 5 cm, depending on the model chosen for the base. If these are tight-fitting pants, step back more; if you outline pajama pants that fit you, draw an exact outline.

We will be sewing pajama pants using a French double seam, which is sometimes called a "linen" seam. The peculiarity of this seam is that it covers the sections of the fabric and completely prevents it from fraying. The French seam is used primarily on thin or sheer fabrics, but it is great for lingerie or sleepwear. If you plan to sew pajama pants from thick, warm flannel, try this stitch on a piece - it may turn out too tight. Then sew the seams in the usual way and overlock the edges with an overlocker or zigzag.

So let's get to work!

Constructing a pattern

Fold the sample in half, straightening out the crotch and center seams as much as possible. Trace the outline of the front half of the sample on paper: the curved line of the middle seam, the top and the beginning of the side seam.

Turn the trousers over to the other side, place them on another part of the sheet and draw the middle seam again, this time on the back half. It will be longer and cut more heavily inwards as shown in the pattern diagram. Make the waist line on the back part higher towards the middle by 5 cm.

Using a ruler, draw down the step lines of the legs, narrowing them slightly, as shown in the pattern diagram. Measure the required length from the waist line. Check the pattern with a centimeter. The length of the side seams of the front and back halves should match each other, as well as the length of the inseams of the front and back. The total sum of the waist widths of the front and back halves should be approximately 10-20 cm greater than the actual half-waist circumference, for subsequent cinching in the belt.

Uncover

Before cutting, the fabric must be washed and ironed. Seam allowances: 1.5 cm on the middle, side and crotch seams, 1 cm on the top and 2 cm on the bottom edge.

Option 1. Fold the fabric in half along the grain line (edge) with right sides facing in. Cut out 1 front half and 1 back half.

Option 2. Lay out the fabric and cut out 1 front half and 1 back half, flip the pattern over and cut out 1 front and 1 back piece again.

If the fabric has a directional pattern, all parts must be cut in the same direction of the pattern. Watch the direction of the grain thread - it should be parallel to the length of the trousers.

Also cut a 2.5cm wide strip across the entire width of the fabric for the tie belt. For the main belt, calculate the sum of the width at the waist of all 4 halves (excluding allowances). Subtract 15 cm and add 2 cm for allowances and cut a strip of this length 5 cm wide. Cut an additional piece 5 cm wide and 17 cm long.

Progress

• trouser details
• rubber
• thread, scissors, pins

Fold the back and front halves in pairs, wrong sides inward. Sew by 5 mm from the edge. Cut the allowance by 2-3 mm. Iron the seam, turn it inside out and iron again.

Sew, retreating from the edge 5-7 mm, closing the open cut of the previous seam.

Iron towards the back half. Topstitch along the right side close to the seam.

Fold each piece in half with the wrong side facing in and sew the crotch seams in the same way as the previous side seams. Don't forget to iron after each step!

Turn one pant leg right side out and insert the pant leg inside out.

Line up the middle seam and pin. Sew at a distance of 5 mm, cut off the seam allowance close to the stitching and cut in the rounded areas. Iron.

Turn the pants inside out so that the right side is now inside. Iron and topstitch 5-7 mm, covering the open edge of the previous seam.

Turn up the bottom of the legs 1 cm and iron. Fold again, iron, pin and stitch close to the fold.

Fold the large piece of the main belt and the piece 17 cm long along the short edge, right sides inward. Sew 5-7 mm, secure the thread. Leave a 1cm open section and stitch further to the end. Sew the second ends of the parts in the same way to make a ring. Don't get confused, the open area in both seams should be closer to the same edge of the waistband.

Press the seam allowances to the sides and stitch close to the seam on both sides. Fold the ring belt in half along its entire length and iron. Iron 1 cm inside the waistband from each edge.

Place the main waistband ring in front of you with the open seams facing up. Insert the top edge of the trousers into the ironed waistband to a depth of 1 cm and baste. The center of the front of the trousers should be between the seams of the waistband with open areas, and these areas themselves should be on the front side of the trousers. Sew the waistband along the bottom edge.

Insert an elastic band into one of the open seam areas in the waistband, for example using a safety pin.

Pin or baste the ends of the elastic and try on the pants to determine the length of the elastic. Sew the ends of the elastic by hand or by machine. Fully straighten the elastic band inside the waistband. Iron the belt-tie part in half along its entire length, bending each edge approximately 7 mm to the middle. Fold it in half again, covering the inside edges, and iron.

Sew along the entire length and iron. Insert the tie belt into one of the open seam sections using the same pin, pull it through the back halves in a circle to the second open section and pull it out. Straighten and tie knots at the ends.

It becomes cool and sleeping in warm flannel clothes is a hundred times more pleasant. I really love warm shirts, but I can’t sleep in them at all, because... in the morning it ends up on my neck, I think I’m not the only one, and in this article I want to invite you to create a pattern for pajama pants directly on the fabric, which even a novice cutter can master. The pattern is universal, without side seams, it is suitable for men's lounge pants or sleep pants for a son or daughter.

Cotton flannel is suitable for these warm trousers. Our industry produces flannel mainly with a width of no more than 80 cm, so for them you need to take two lengths of trousers plus 15 cm for allowances, for ladies and men with hip sizes up to 110 cm, and if your size exceeds 110 hip girth, then I recommend making a pattern on paper, so to figure out how much fabric is needed, you may have to buy three lengths and build the trousers with a side seam.)

Taking measurements: Tie an elastic band around your waist and leave it until the measurements are taken. Remove the waist circumference. Hip circumference plus 10-18 cm (if you want to wear looser trousers, take a larger increase), I will indicate my measurements, and you substitute yours. It is better to use the help of your home to take measurements.

Standing, measure the length of the trousers from the elastic at the waist on the side to the desired point, mine will be to the ankle. And from the elastic to the ankle in the front. You can measure both measurements to the floor and subtract the distance from the floor to the desired place on the ankle (mine is minus five).

The height of the knee is from the side of the elastic at the waist to the middle of the knee; usually, when measuring the length of the trousers, I immediately note the height of the knee. Knee circumference plus 10-20 cm. Bottom circumference plus 15-25 cm.

Seat height plus 3-5 cm (measured while sitting, on a hard chair on the side from the elastic at the waist to the surface of the chair, this increase is given for loose lounge trousers and sleep trousers, keep this in mind, you should not build trousers for going out using this guide, this is a topic other lessons).

And the last test measurement, the length of the saddle (taken while standing, the measurement starts in front on the waist elastic, the measuring tape is passed between the legs and ends at the midpoint on the back elastic plus 3-5 cm).

I will build based on my standards, and you can use yours.

My waist measurement is 74 cm.
Hips with an increase of 109 cm.
The length of the trousers at the side is 94 cm.
The front length of the trousers is 91 cm.
Knee height 54 cm.
Knee circumference with an increase of 47 cm.
Ankle circumference with an increase of 37 cm.
Seat height 29 cm.
Measurement “saddle” with an increase of 63 cm.

In total, for these trousers I will need a piece of fabric equal to two lengths plus 15 cm, a total of 203 cm, I will also need an elastic band 2.5-4 cm wide, equal to the waist length minus 5-10 cm.

Construction starts from the bottom. Use a square to straighten the cut. Place the fabric on a flat surface, a folding table or the floor. Place the square with the short side to the edge and mark along the long side, continue marking using a long ruler, cut off the excess along the mark.

From the cut upward, set aside 3 cm for the bottom allowance and draw a line from edge to edge.

Place the measurement of the length of the trousers up from the marked line; mine is 94 cm. Through this point, draw a horizontal line from hem to hem.

Divide the hip circumference with the allowance by 2. I have 54.5 cm.

To calculate the length of the wedges. We divide the resulting number 54.5 by the special coefficient 3.8. I got 14.3, I round up to 14 cm. I divide the resulting number 14 again, but by 3, and round up I get 5 cm, this is the wedge for the front half of the trousers, the remaining 14-5 = 9 cm is the wedge for the back half.

We continue building. From the top point downwards we measure the height of the seat with an allowance, mine is 29 cm and again we draw a horizontal line.

From the left edge to the right we set aside 2 cm for the allowance, point P and from this point to the right the length of the front wedge is 5 cm (point SP).

From point SP vertically upwards, at the intersection with the horizontal point TP.

From the point SP to the right half the circumference of the hips with an allowance, I have 54.5 cm (point CC).

From point SS vertical upward, at the intersection with the horizontal point TC.

From the point CC to the right, the width of the rear wedge is 9 cm. If there is no longer room for the wedge, then you can cut out trousers with a cut-off wedge, I indicated an example with shading. Place a sheet of A4 below the seat line and secure with pins, further building the trousers on the fabric you will at the same time know what the wedge will be. After construction, you will apply it to the free remainder of the fabric, an example of a wedge cut is indicated as a red bold line and the same line is a grain thread.

Divide the distance between points SP and SS in half 27.2, round to 27, move to the left 2 cm, and draw a vertical through this point up and down. This is the side seam of the trousers, although we are not supposed to have a side seam, but it will be useful to us in the future.

Next, from the point TP to the right we will set aside 2 cm. From the point SP up on the vertical we will set aside a distance equal to the front wedge of 5 cm, connect points 2 and 5 with a straight line. On this straight line down from (.) 2, set aside the difference between measuring the length of the trousers from the front and from the side. My trousers are 3 cm shorter in front, set aside 3 cm, mark as (.)3. Make a conjugation or manually connect the points of the front wedge, P and 5.

From point TC to the left 3 cm. From point SS up, set aside the width of the rear wedge 9 cm. Connect points 9 and 3, this is a temporary line. Pair (..) 9 and C or connect by hand with a smooth line.

Now you need to compare the “saddle” in the drawing and the measuring saddle. Measure with a centimeter the line from (.)P through point 5 to (.)2 and on the back half from (.)C through (.)9 to (.) 3. Add up the measurement results. My measurement from the drawing is 3 cm less than the saddle test measurement, the missing centimeters need to be included in the drawing, otherwise the trousers will fit uncomfortably between the buttocks :(

To do this, draw a vertical line from (.)3 up and mark the missing difference of 3 cm on it. If the difference exceeds 5 cm, then I recommend building a vertical line 3/4 of the difference long or setting aside the entire difference, the pants are homemade and even extra “waste” for the good, there will be no pressure.

Draw a waist line through (..) 3p, B and 3c. I note that in (.) 3p and (.) 3p there must be a right angle.

Now connect (.) 3c to (.)9 and adjust the pattern line to (.)C if required. The upper part of the trousers is ready. For trousers with a low waist, you need to take an additional measurement - from the elastic at the waist, from the side down, measure the distance to the desired point where the low waist is supposed to be, usually up to 10 cm. On the drawing, from the constructed waist line, draw a line parallel to the line below by the desired amount.

From (.) B down, mark the height of the knee, mine is 54, and draw a horizontal line through this point. About it, to the right and to the left, set aside half the girth of the knee with an increase. I have 47/2, respectively 23.5 cm to the left and right.

Along the bottom line from the side seam to the left and right along half the circumference of the ankle, mine is 37/2, 18.5 cm each. From these points up the vertical is 3 cm. In the men's version, the width of the bottom can be equal to the width of the knee, you get straight trousers.

Finish the crotch seam of the front half. From (.) P down, through the point on the knee with (.) 3 on the bottom line. Adjust so that the line is smooth.

Draw the crotch line of the back half. From (.) C down through (.) on the knee to (.) 10 line of the bottom. Adjust so that the line is smooth. The length of the crotch seam of the back half will be approximately 1.3-1.8 cm longer; this difference will be adjusted during further assembly.

Mark seam allowances of 1-1.5 cm, along the waist line 1 cm is enough. Fold the fabric, matching the edges with the right sides inward. Cut out the pattern.

The leftovers will make a belt. The height of the belt pattern is equal to the height of the elastic + 0.5 + 1, multiply the resulting result by two. My elastic band is (2.5 + 1.5) x 2 = 8 cm wide, the length is equal to the waist line from the drawing multiplied by two, plus 1 cm allowance.

The pajama trousers pattern is ready, it’s more difficult to describe than to build, believe me. If you have questions, ask in the comments, I will try to clarify any unclear points. And in the next article I will show you how to sew pajama pants.

Sweet dreams, in warm pants, dear needlewomen!