Modeling a pattern for cutting a women's coat. We model and sew coats! Lots of modeling options for sewing a fashionable coat yourself! Women's coat pattern: construction

The variety of women's wardrobes today is simply amazing. A huge number of unique cuts and styles, combined with bright and delicate shades, as well as contrasts and original decor, make the modern girl simply charming. Fashion designers work tirelessly to create new looks, constantly drawing inspiration from the styles of past years. So they decided to turn the eyes of the fair half of humanity to the cocoon coat, which was so popular in the 50s and 70s of the last century. The photo, pattern of this product, as well as a description of the sewing process will be discussed in this article.

Manufacturing options

The ability to sew or knit has always been valuable. Not every woman has the talent to create a unique item from a skein of thread or a piece of fabric that will take its rightful place in the wardrobe. But if you have even the slightest ability and desire to develop it, that’s just wonderful.

The idea of ​​sewing or knitting a cocoon coat with your own hands is a great option for starting creativity. This item of clothing will look perfect in any design. It can be a large knit from a thick thread or, conversely, openwork weaving; a coat with a satin lining or an option insulated with synthetic padding. In this case, everything is in the hands of the craftswoman, and only her imagination determines the style of execution.

Choosing fabric for a coat

When sewing any product, it is very important to choose the right fabric. Naturally, in this case you should choose suitable materials. This can be soft cashmere, tweed or polar, or coarser fabrics such as bouclé or drape. The appearance of the fabric depends on the weave of the threads. It can be satin, twill, linen or a combination.

For winter, the best option would be thick cloth, which can be duplicated with a lining with insulation or an underlining can be made. For a demi-season option, cashmere with a thin lining is suitable. But for a very thin coat it is better to choose gabardine or diagonal.

When choosing a material, you need to consider what the pattern of the cocoon coat will be. Fabrics with plain weave, which can be classified as highly free-flowing materials, are more suitable for models with one-piece sleeves. It should be borne in mind here that the material can be capricious. You should not take fabrics that are too soft for this model, because the coat must keep its shape. It is also undesirable to use highly stretchable fabrics that can become deformed during wear.

We purchase yarn

With the choice of yarn everything is much simpler. There is only one rule: the thread must be of sufficient thickness. The composition in this case plays a secondary role. However, what prevents you from experimenting? which is used when knitting a garment is identical to the one on which the product is sewn. When knitting parts, it is only important to maintain proportions and repeat all the bends of the template. Therefore, when choosing yarn, you should take into account the thickness of the future woven fabric. If the yarn is too thick, you will have to slightly increase the pattern around the perimeter, but if it is thin, reduce it.

Yarns such as boucle, wool, wool blend, and mohair are ideal for a warm knitted coat. But, of course, no one canceled experiments, and therefore you can try to create an amazing knitted item from yarn with beads, sequins and lurex. Yes, such a product will not be warm and, rather, will look like a chic jacket rather than a coat, but it will be quite suitable for a summer or spring evening. Naturally, the pattern of a cocoon coat with this design should not have too large allowances for a loose fit.

Measurements - the basis for work

A product template is the basis for any thing, be it factory or individual production. How is the pattern made? It’s easy to make a cocoon coat with your own hands. First you need to take measurements from the figure, and then correctly transfer them onto paper. If there are problems with the design, you can go one of the simplest ways.

What is the easiest way to make a pattern? The cocoon coat has a one-piece sleeve. And this option is perfect for beginner seamstresses. Building a blank is not difficult at all. First of all, you should take measurements: the volume of the neck, chest and hips, shoulder width, sleeve length and product length, chest height, front length to the waist. You can also take a reference measurement from wrist to wrist across the neck to help with the construction process.

For the template, thick construction film is best suited, on which you can draw with a regular ballpoint pen. It is quite easy to store, does not tear or wrinkle, unlike paper. So how is a pattern made? It’s easy to create a cocoon coat with your own hands.

Constructing a pattern

The details of the front and back fabrics are almost identical, the only difference is in the depth of the neck, and also in the fact that the front should consist of two halves and have allowances for the design of the fastener. The drawing is based on a right angle constructed from two right angles, where the vertical is equal to the length of the product, and the horizontal is equal to half the neck circumference + shoulder width + sleeve length. Next, you should draw auxiliary straight lines: the chest line, which is laid off from the top of the vertical angle in accordance with the “chest height” measurement, the waist line according to the “front length to waist” measurement, as well as the hip line (20 cm below the waist).

Next you can start building the sleeve. At the point where the shoulder length measurement ends, you should step back approximately 4 cm from the straight line and draw a new line, continuing it in accordance with the “sleeve length” measurement. Afterwards, at a right angle on the edge of this straight line, you need to lower it by 10-15 cm, depending on the desired width of the sleeve and the thickness of the wrist. Next, you should connect the chest line and the bottom line of the sleeve, making a rounding in the armpit area. After this, it remains to determine what the narrowing of the product should be downwards, and continue the existing sleeve line with a side seam through the hip line to the bottom. Everything, ready, ready. All that remains is to add the details, and you can start sewing.

Pattern modeling

Elements such as fasteners, pockets, darts, raised seams, collar and cuffs are details that are indicated on the main pattern during the modeling process. Without them, the products would be boring and monotonous. With the help of these elements, you can correctly place accents and create just the perfect image. The pattern of the cocoon coat itself is so original that sometimes it is minimalism that gives the item a special charm. However, you can experiment with the clasp, sleeve length, collar option and pockets. Modeling a cocoon coat is one of the interesting stages, since when working, a simple template turns into a unique thing.

Cutting and assembly

Once the film template has been prepared, you can transfer it to the fabric and begin cutting. Here you should remember about seam allowances of approximately 1-1.5 cm, depending on the type of fabric. You will also need to draw lines along the neckline and front slit at a distance of approximately 5-7 cm, parallel to the edge of the pattern - these will be the edges of the product, they are cut out separately from the main fabric with the same seam allowances as the rest of the parts.

Assembling the main elements of the coat is not difficult, but you will have to tinker a little with the pockets. If you have absolutely no experience in tailoring, then it is better to make pockets in the side seams. They should be completed before assembling all parts of the coat. When the preparatory work with the pockets is completed, you can begin sewing. First, the parts are stitched along the shoulder seams, which turn into the sleeve seams. Afterwards, the shoulder seams are sewn on the details of the collars and connect this element to the main fabric of the coat.

It’s much easier with a knitted product. During the knitting process, the parts are adjusted to the size of the template, and after they are ready, they are simply sewn together. If the plans include a product with a lining, then you will need to knit additional linings corresponding to the pattern. Pockets should be treated in the same way as when sewing. One part should be knitted, and the other should be cut from

Pocket design

To design the pocket, you need to cut out two parts according to the template of the outlined hand from the wrist to the fingertips from the lining. Next, sew the lining to the side seam at hip level on the front half of the coat, and the blank from the back. This is done so that the lining is not visible when entering the pocket. After this, the parts of the coat are combined along the side seam and connected with a straight stitch. The pocket halves are also ground down and steamed with an iron.

A knitted cocoon coat with pockets in the seams is made using the same principle.

Working with the lining

In order to make the lining, you must first cut out the parts according to prepared templates. It is worth noting that patterns should be without edges. Here you should also take into account seam allowances of approximately 1 cm. There is little work with the lining. First, close the shoulder and sleeve seams, then move on to the side seams. Next, the lining is stitched to the lining. The final stage is hemming the bottom of the product and stitching the details of the sleeves of the main and lining fabrics.

Knowing the pattern of which is given in this article, you can save a decent amount of money, because this item is in trend today, and you will have to pay a lot for it in the store.

In the upcoming autumn-winter season 2014-2015, designers have prepared a palette of a wide variety of coat solutions for every taste. The models presented in the collections amaze with the variety of silhouettes, styles, styles, textures, and colors. However, as always, several of the most striking trends can be identified. We, as beginners (and maybe already quite experienced) fashion designers, are primarily interested in shapes and silhouettes. Perhaps we’ll dwell on them in more detail.

One of these areas is all kinds of ponchos, capes and capes. Moreover, in a wide variety of styles: ethnic, minimalism, and what about the fabulous mischievous foxes from Dolche&Gabbana! In general, if you don’t have a poncho yet, you definitely should. I think it won’t be difficult for regulars of our modeling lessons to create one for themselves, by analogy with a children’s poncho, based on an “adult” basic pattern.

Another super-current trend is “robe” coats, including those with a wrap, collars that, together with the side, form cascading tails, etc.

Double-breasted coats are also a favorite this season, with some subtly supporting the military look.

The green coat from Versace in the previous photo looks doubly relevant not only thanks to the double-breasted fastener, but also to its straight silhouette. The rectangular shape is a new trend that is likely to remain at its peak in the coming fashion seasons. This silhouette often serves as an excellent backdrop for placing all kinds of enlarged accents - lapels, pockets, collars, etc.

If we continue to discuss silhouettes, cocoon coats will also look trendy this fall. Close to an oval shape due to seamless or simply very wide sleeves, they look cozy and enveloping. This also includes another trend - the so-called “oversized” coats, the voluminous silhouette of which is created so casually, as if you were simply wrapped in a coat several sizes larger than yours.

And, of course, the classic fitted silhouette is a timeless classic and is also present in the collections of the coming season.

You, of course, have already noticed that designers are boldly experimenting with the shoulder line and coat sleeve. The rectangular silhouette we have already mentioned requires lengthening the shoulder line. The oval silhouette uses a recessed armhole. Note that such experiments this season are carried out mainly in the direction of increasing volume in the shoulder girdle area. Sleeves of complex shapes are created on the basis of raglan, kimono and become another fashionable accent. Here are some more examples of similar creations.

Now that we are quite savvy in the topic of fashionable women's coats, it's time to introduce in more detail the model-heroine of our today's lesson. Low-cut (but still not like baggy oversized coats) armhole, elongated shoulder line, scissor pleats on the skirt - this model is worthy of you sewing it! This is also a great opportunity to take a closer look at the designs of the armhole and sleeve cap and how to model them.

So, let's start modeling. Here is a technical drawing of our model:

Today we will model based on your own coat base pattern. Very soon you won't have to waste time making this pattern yourself, and you can have your own coat base pattern in minutes! Because in the near future we will have a coat pattern generator on our website! In order not to miss this event, subscribe to the newsletter or add to the groups "in contact" or facebook.

Take all necessary measurements carefully and, if necessary, ask someone to help you. Fill out the resulting measurements on the online generator page and get a pattern like this:

You will also need a one-seam sleeve pattern.

A coat pattern differs from a dress pattern in the large allowance for a loose fit, which also takes into account the so-called increase for the “package of materials” - that is, for the thickness of all layers of materials in the product. We took as a basis the pattern of a coat with a semi-fitting silhouette. However, from the technical drawing and photo we see that the coat has sufficient freedom in the chest area, that is, a large increase in the half-circumference of the chest. And we will achieve this freedom by expanding the pattern in the armhole area. But let's talk about everything in order.

Modeling the top of the coat

To begin with, we will work only with the upper part of the pattern - with the bodice of the coat.

STEP 1 . Let's move the chest dart towards the shoulder, so that the distance from the edge of the neckline to the dart along the shoulder line is approximately 10 centimeters. Then we move part of the dart into the armhole so that it lengthens by 1.5 centimeters. We will not take into account darts along the waistline.

STEP 2 . Let's deepen the armhole by 4 centimeters. To do this, lower the horizontal line passing under the armhole 4 centimeters down.

STEP 3 . Let's also expand the armhole by 4 cm. To do this, simply spread the front and back halves of the pattern by 4 cm and draw new armhole lines, starting from the control marks on the front and back of the armhole, as shown in the figure.

So, our armhole has already been deepened and expanded. It will continue to change further due to lengthening of the shoulder line. This will lead to changes in the sleeve design. Therefore, let's understand the concepts connecting the armhole and sleeve cap.

When we sew the shoulder seams on the garment and the sides of the sleeves, we have two pieces that we need to join together - the bodice and the sleeve. That is, we have to connect two closed curves - ACEDBA and HFOGJH. These curves are approximately oval-shaped and are called armhole and collar, respectively. As a rule, the length of the armhole ACEDBA is less than the length of the sleeve cap HFOGJH. When sewing a sleeve into an armhole, we also need to have reference marks C and D on the armhole and F and G on the hem. In this case, the armhole and the hem are connected along the areas indicated in the figure with the same colors. Even if the model does not provide a fluffy sleeve with wild folds along the edge, a small fit is still given along the edge in the area from point F to point G to ensure accurate insertion and a good fit of the sleeve. The piping line HFOGJH should be 1.04 - 1.14 times longer than the armhole line ACEDBA (this number n selected depending on the type of fabric).

Obviously, the shapes of the armhole and the collar must correspond to each other, and changing one will definitely force the other to change. And they change when their parameters change: depths And armhole width, sleeve hem height and him width. They are shown in the figure below.

Armhole depth (height) is determined by the distance from the middle of segment AB to the line under the armhole. If we combine the bodice and sleeve patterns along the line under the armhole and the edging, respectively, as was done in our figure, we will see that the height of the edging will be less than the depth of the armhole by a certain amount. As a rule, it is 2-2.5 centimeters. So, what changes to the armhole-ring assembly we may encounter:

• If we want deepen the armhole, i.e. To make the entrance to the sleeve freer, we must lower the line under the armhole on the bodice drawing, i.e. lower point E. Then on the drawing of the sleeve we must lower the ends of the sleeve cap at points H and J by the same number of centimeters.
• If we want widen the armhole, that is, to increase the distance between the tangents to points C and D on the bodice drawing, we must move points H and J apart along the line defining the height of the edging. The dilution must be sufficient to ensure conjugation of the CE-FH and DE-GJ regions, respectively. Let us remind you that widening the armhole leads to an increase in the freedom of the product in the chest area.
• If we want lengthen the shoulder, this will move points A and B on the bodice pattern. This entails the following changes to the sleeve pattern: the height of the collar will decrease, and the width of the sleeve will increase. As the slope decreases, point O will move down by the amount of lengthening of the shoulder. Shoulder lengthening is most often performed simultaneously with deepening the armhole. As we said in the first point, if we deepened the armhole, then we need to increase the height of the sleeve cap. But if we are designing a product with a shirt-type sleeve, or even aspiring to a kimono, in which the connecting lines between the sleeve and the armhole are close to straight, and the sleeve is characterized by a very low rim, we can increase the length of the sleeve rim not by deepening the armhole, but only by sleeve extensions. At the same time, we must expand the sleeve so much to ensure that the lengths of ACEDB and HFOGJ are approximately equal (taking into account the correction of the HFOGJ line for landing n , which we talked about above).

Well, our not at all lyrical digression is over :-) We have dealt with the complex at first glance terminology of roundels and sleeves and the intricacies of their mutual transformation, and now we can competently continue modeling our coat. You have probably already noticed that modeling in our case will go along all three points - widening and deepening the armhole along with lengthening the shoulder line.

STEP 4 . Let's lengthen the shoulder lines. To do this, raise the ends of the shoulder sections by 0.5 cm and extend them by that distance a so that the total length of the shoulder is about 20 centimeters. In our case, let's take a =5 cm. It is not necessary to extend the lines strictly in a straight line; you can do this as in our drawing to ensure a smooth rounded shoulder line like our model.

STEP 5 . When lengthening the shoulder, you will need to narrow the armhole by moving points C and D horizontally by a distance a/2 (in our example 2.5 cm). Let's draw a new armhole line with smooth lines.

STEP 6 . At the place of the chest dart we will mark the place of the pintuck. When making a coat, the tuck is made in the form of a small counter fold, stitched to an amount of approximately 3-4 cm.

STEP 7 . The mid-front line on our coat pattern is called the half-skid line, because the coat fastener is usually designed in relation to this line. Draw a line for the edge of the coat at a distance of approximately 4 cm from the half-skid line. Also deepen the front neckline a little.

STEP 8 . On the back, we will draw the middle line by 1.5 cm. To create it, we will connect a point on the waist line with a point on the line of the middle of the back, located at the level of the control mark of the armhole.

So, the pattern for the top of the coat is already ready, it is shown in green in the drawing!

Now let's take care of the sleeve, especially since we can already guess what changes are threatening it.

Sleeve modeling

STEP 1 . Lower the top point of the sleeve by a distance a , by which we lengthened the shoulder. That is, in our example, 5 cm. We get point O1.

STEP 2 . Points F and G will move from each other horizontally by a distance a/4 (in our example 1.25 cm).

STEP 3 . Let's move points H and J apart in such a way as to ensure the equality of the lines F1H=CE and G1J=DE on the armhole and hem, respectively.

STEP 4 . The sleeve is already widened. But it is necessary to expand it a little more to ensure mating at the top of the rim. To do this, cut it in the middle along a vertical line passing through point O.

STEP 5 . Let's spread the sleeve to such a distance that we can combine the sections of the collar with the corresponding sections on the armhole. Namely: section F1O1=AC* n , and section G1O1=BD* n . As already mentioned, n characterizes the size of the sleeve fit and depends on the type of fabric. Let's take n =1.1, as for wool blend and coat fabrics. You can also simplify the fit around the edge as 1 centimeter and expand the pattern, ensuring the length of the edge sections is equal to F1O1=AC+0.5 cm, and the section G1O1=BD+0.5 cm.

STEP 6 . Measure the length of the sleeve at a distance of ¾ from the original length. Draw the side lines of the sleeve from points H and J, ensuring the required width of the sleeve at the bottom.

Sleeve pattern received! It is colored green in the drawing. Now it's time to work on the “skirt” of the coat.

Modeling the bottom of the coat

STEP 1 . To model the “skirt” of the coat, we will cut off the lower part of our base pattern. Let's eliminate the expansion of the coat by decorating the side line with a vertical line, as in the drawing below. We will set the middle line of the back of the skirt 1.5 cm. We do not take into account the dart at the waist. The pattern for the back half of the bottom of the coat is ready! As usual, it is colored green.

STEP 2 . On the front part of the “skirt” we draw a side line at a distance of 4 cm relative to the half-skid line.

Further modeling of the front part of the skirt will remind you of the modeling that we have already sewed in our lessons. The difference is that in that model the opposing folds converged at one point, but here they overlap each other. These overlapping folds are called scissor folds.

STEP 3 . In the middle of the waistline of the front of the skirt, mark a point from which to draw a vertical line. Set aside 2 cm to the sides from this point. And measure 10 cm vertically downwards. Connect the resulting points, as shown in the left figure below. These lines, indicated in our drawing with a red dotted line, will set the direction of future folds.

STEP 4 . Cut the pattern along the marked red dotted lines. Move the pattern pieces apart relative to the intersection point of the fold lines by 10 centimeters. Draw a waist line and mark the joining points of the folds on it. Create a smooth bottom line. The pattern for the front part of the “skirt” is also ready!

Well, that's it, we've finished modeling our coat! Don’t forget to draw the border, the finished width of which should be 8 cm (2 times the size that we retreated from the half-skid line), as well as the facing of the back neck, they are shown in pink in the drawing below.

If you are just starting to master the intricacies of sewing, but are ready to try your hand at sewing a coat, this model is for you! There are no complicated details in this coat, the pattern is based on basic measurements, and you won’t have to waste a lot of time sewing in the sleeves. We tried to choose a model that will look chic and yet be as easy to sew as possible. We have completed our task - now it’s your turn. Make yourself this elegant coat for fall and trust me, it will become a favorite in your collection. There are two colors to choose from and both are on trend!

Advice: choose a belt that matches the color of your coat, and your silhouette will radically change!

Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati
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Rice. 1-2: Pattern of a simple coat - back and front

Pattern of a simple coat - construction

To create a pattern for a simple coat (size 46-48), you need to take the following measurements:

1. Coat back length 125 cm
2. Back length to waist (DTS) 43 cm
3. Front length to waist (accident) 47 cm
4. Shoulder length 12 cm
5. Half neck circumference 18 cm
6. Half chest 48 cm
7. Half hip circumference 51 cm
8. Sleeve length 62 cm
9. Semi-circumference of the wrist is 9 cm.

IMPORTANT! When creating a pattern for a simple coat, the main measurement is the hip circumference. If your hip circumference is smaller than your chest circumference, use the Half Bust measurement.

Rice. 3. Pattern of a simple coat

Pattern of a simple coat - back

We begin construction by cutting out the back of the coat. From point A, draw vertical and horizontal lines. Along a vertical line, set aside a segment AC with a length of 125 cm (length of the coat as measured), set aside 7.5 cm to the right of point A (1/3 half-circumference of the neck according to measurement + 1.5 cm for all sizes: 18/3+1.5= 7.5 cm).

From point 7.5, set aside 2 cm upward for all sizes. Connect points 7.5 and 2 with a concave line. From point 2, draw a shoulder line 14 cm long (shoulder length according to measurement + 2 cm) so that point 14 lies below segment AB by 0.5 cm. Extend the shoulder line by an additional 62 cm (sleeve length according to measurement). Draw a line for the bottom of the sleeve at a right angle to the shoulder line. Sleeve width at the bottom is about 15 cm (½ wrist circumference according to measurement + 6 cm for all sizes).

From point A down along line AC, set aside AT with a length equal to the DTS measurement (length of the back to the waist) + 1 cm. From point T, draw a horizontal line and set aside 1/4 of the hip circumference to the right according to the measurement + 2.5 cm for all sizes. Draw a vertical line down from the resulting point until it intersects with the DC line. Draw the bottom line of the sleeve according to the pattern as shown in Fig. 3.

Set aside 10 cm along the shoulder from point 14, draw a dotted line at a right angle to the shoulder line, cut off the sleeve along the line and cut it out separately.

The construction of the pattern for the front of the coat is similar to the construction of the pattern for the back.

Extend the waist line to the right. From point T1, set aside the road accident measurement (length of front to waist) + 1 cm - point B1 is obtained. From point B1, set aside 7.5 cm to the left (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 1.5 cm for all sizes: 18/3+1.5=7.5 cm) and down 8.5 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference neck according to measurement + 2.5 cm for all sizes: 18/3+2.5=8.5 cm).

From point D, set aside 3 cm to the right (close to the fastener). From point 3, draw a vertical line upward. From point 8.5 to the right, set aside 5 cm and design the lapel lapel according to the pattern.

From point T1, set aside 1/4 of the hip circumference to the left according to the measurement + 2.5 cm for all sizes. Draw a vertical line down from the resulting point until it intersects with the DC line.

Copy the shoulder line and sleeve from the back pattern. Cut the sleeve along the line and cut it without a shoulder seam.

Rice. 4. Pattern of a simple coat - cut details

From the main fabric, cut out all the details of the coat from the main and lining fabric. Cut out the front pieces from the lining fabric, minus the hem. Seam allowances – 1.5 cm, at the bottom of the coat and sleeves – 4 cm.

Additionally cut out

from main fabric: 4 oblique facing pockets 19 cm long and 3 cm wide, 2 burlap pockets - rectangles 19 cm wide and 20 cm long;

from lining fabric: 2 burlap pockets 19 cm wide and 20 cm long.

How to sew a coat

Pocket openings, both hems, allowances at the bottom of sleeves and coats, both collar pieces and top flap pieces.

Make welt pockets with a flap. Sew shoulder seams, stitch sleeves to front and back. Sew side seams, middle back seam, trim seam allowances and press. Sew the collar parts along the outer and two short sides, cut the allowances by 0.4 cm, diagonally in the corners, turn the collar inside out, sweep clean, iron. Sew the collar into the neck.

Sew lining details, stitch hems. Process and iron seam allowances. Place the coat with the lining right sides facing each other, stitch along the middle seams of the front and neckline, while sewing in the collar. Process allowances.

Unscrew the lining and put in the sleeves. Turn up the allowances along the bottom of the sleeves from the main and lining fabrics, baste the lining along the bottom of the sleeves with blind stitches.

Tuck the allowance at the bottom of the coat and baste it with blind stitches, tuck the allowance at the bottom of the lining and stitch. Secure the hem along the bottom of the coat with a couple of stitches. Sew buttons along the markings. Now you know that sewing a coat is very easy!

The first rule states that you should use only fabric that does not have significant defects for cutting a coat. Carefully inspect the material chosen for sewing. Make sure there are no obvious holes, holes, uneven coloring or excessively thick threads. Identified defects should be marked with colored thread or chalk. This will allow you to place problem areas of the fabric in places that will not be visible on the finished coat, for example, on the lower collar or ribs.

The second rule of cutting: before direct cutting, the fabric must be decated. We are talking about wet-heat treatment of the material, which eliminates shrinkage of the fabric during sewing and while wearing the coat. Conventional sewing machines use an iron, but if you have to sew a lot, it makes sense to purchase a special device called a steam generator.

To dedecate fabric containing chemical fibers, soak it in water, wring it out a little, and then wrap it in a clean, dry sheet. The material must remain in this position for at least three hours. Now you can unfold it and iron it from the wrong side. It is recommended not to soak woolen fabric, cashmere and drape, often used for sewing coats, but to iron it from the inside out through a slightly damp cotton rag. The lining material should also be decatified.

When decating, the iron should move in the direction in which the grain thread is located.

If you are doing individual tailoring, it is convenient to fold the fabric in half lengthwise so that the right side faces inward. The pattern is made for only half of the product (one sleeve, half front, half back, and so on). If the fabric you choose has an intricate pattern that requires adjustment, it should be laid out in a single layer, right side down. The number of patterns for this case will correspond to the number of coat parts.

The next cutting rule: when laying out patterns on fabric, be sure to take into account the location of the warp threads, the nature of the pattern and pile. On the main parts of the coat, the threads should be located in the longitudinal direction. This is a very important point, since this way the finished product will stretch to a lesser extent when worn and will not lose its original shape.

You should know that the warp threads are usually directed along the edge of the material.

Another rule concerns the combination of patterns and designs in the space of the future product. It is necessary to cut the coat most carefully if the fabric has a floral or large geometric pattern. When laying out patterns on the material, make sure that the middles of the parts and the centers of the drawings align exactly with each other. Pay special attention to the symmetry of the patterns on the parts of the coat located on the right and left sides of the product.

It is recommended to start cutting the coat from the back. To do this, it is convenient to draw a rectangle with a width of a quarter of the chest circumference. The length of this part should correspond to the length of the coat you have chosen. On the rectangle, mark the waist and chest line, as well as the neck of the coat and. The shelf is cut out in the same way as the back, leaving enough margin for the fastener.

When cutting, do not forget to leave seam allowances of 2-3 cm. The allowance for hem of the bottom of the coat should be larger - 4-5 cm.

The coat sleeve is traditionally drawn on the basis of two perpendicular straight lines, outlining the width and length of this part. At the bottom, the sleeve pattern can be made narrower, taking into account the width of the wrist. Depending on the style, you may also need to cut pockets, belt, collar and yoke. At the last stage of work, it is necessary to repeat all the elements of the sleeves, back and front on the fabric that will be used for the lining.

In order to sew a coat that fits well, you need to buildpattern-basis coat, based on your own standards.
To measure the semi-circumference of the chest, it is necessary to give an increase for the freedom of fit. For a semi-fitting silhouettecoatit is 7.5-8.5 cm, for straightcoat and free coat- 8.5-10cm. If you want the coat to have a very close-fitting silhouette, you need to reduce this increase in accordance with the model from 5 to 7 cm.

Before you start buildingpatterns-basics coat, check out by increases in freedom of fit.

Women's coat pattern

Women's coat pattern .

To draw a coat pattern drawing, you need to take the following measurements.

1. Coat length along the back is 110 cm

2. Back length to waist 38 cm

3. Shoulder length 13cm

4. Neck semicircle 18 cm

5. Semicircle above the chest 44 cm

6. Chest semicircle 48 cm

7. Waist semi-circumference 38 cm

8. Semi-circle of hips 50 cm

9. Sleeve length 58 cm

10. Wrist semicircle 9 cm

Women's coat pattern: construction

Coat pattern: first stage of construction

Draw a rectangle ABCD.

Coat width.The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 55.5 centimeters (the semicircle of the chest according to the measurement plus 7.5 centimeters for all sizes): 48 + 7.5 = 55.5.

Coat length.The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 110 centimeters (the length of the coat as measured). The length of the coat can be adjusted as desired.

Coat armhole depth. From point A, 23 centimeters are laid down and point D is set (GPr = 1/10OG + 10.5 cm + an increase of 3 cm from the Increase Table) 96: 10 + 10.5 + 3 = 23. A straight line is drawn from point G to the right and the point of intersection of it with line BC is designated by the letter G1.

Waist line of the coat. From point A, 38 centimeters are laid down (the length of the back to the waist as measured) and a point T is placed. A straight line is drawn from point T to the right and the point of intersection of it with the line BC is designated by the letter T1.

Coat hip line. From point T, 18-20 centimeters are laid down and point L is placed. From point L, a straight line is drawn to the right and the point of intersection with the line BC is designated by the letter L1.

Coat back width. From point G, 19 centimeters are set aside to the right and point G2 is placed (1/8OG + 5.5 + an increase of 1.5 cm from the Table of Increases): 96: 8 + 5.5 + 1.5 = 19. From point G2, draw a line upward and the point of its intersection with line A B is designated by the letter P.

Armhole width.From point G2, 14 centimeters are set aside to the right and point G3 is placed (1/8OG-1.5 cm + 3.5 cm increase from the Table of Increases): 96: 8-1.5 + 3.5 = 14.

Raising the front of a coat. From point G1, 28.5 centimeters are set aside upward and point W is placed (1/2 of the chest semicircle by measurement plus 1.5-2 centimeters for all sizes + 3 cm increase in armhole depth): 48:2 + 1.5 + 3 = 28 ,5. From point G3, 28.5 centimeters are also set aside upward and point P1 is placed. The point of intersection with line A B is designated P2. Points P1 and Ш are connected.

Coat side line. The segment G2G3 is divided in half and from the division point a line is drawn down to the intersection with the DC line and a point H is placed, the intersection with the TT1 line is designated by the letter T2, and with the hip line LL1 by the letter L2.

Auxiliary lines of the shoulder and armhole of the coat. Lines PG2 and P2G3 are divided into four equal parts.

Coat pattern: calculation of darts

Calculation of the depth of darts at the waistline of the coat. Determine the difference between the width of the coat mesh and the semi-circumference of the waist according to the measurement along with an increase of 5.5 centimeters (for all sizes): 55.5-(38+5.5) = 12.

Depth of darts in the back and front of the coat. The front is 3 centimeters (1/4 of the difference):

12: 4=3.

Front side dart depthcoatequal to 2 centimeters (1/4 difference minus 1 centimeter for all sizes): 12:4-1=2.

Depth of dart along side seam linecoatequal to 4 centimeters (1/4 difference plus 1 centimeter for all sizes): 12: 4+1=4.

Coat pattern: second stage of construction

Women's coat pattern: building the back

Neckline. From point A, add 7.5 centimeters to the right (1/3 of the semicircle of the neck by measurement plus 1.5 centimeters for all sizes): 18: 3+1.5=7.5. From point 7.5 up, 1.5 centimeters are laid down, from point 1.5 up - 1 centimeter. Points A and 1 are connected by a concave line.

The slope of the coat shoulder. 1.5 centimeters are laid down from point P.

Shoulder line.The shoulder line is drawn from point 1.5 (neck) through point 1.5 (shoulder slope) with a length equal to 14 centimeters (shoulder length by measurement plus 1 centimeter for all sizes): 13+1 = 14. Point 1 is connected to the shoulder line .

Armhole line.From point G2, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2.5-3 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn through point 14, the midpoint of the division of line PG2, points 3 and G4.

Side seam of the coat. 2 centimeters are set aside from point T2 to the left. The side seam line is drawn through points G4, 2, L2 until it intersects with the DC line.

Dart at the waistline of the coat. The distance GG2 is divided in half and 1 centimeter is set aside from the division point to the left. From point 1, draw a line down to the intersection with the hip line LL1 and from the intersection point, put 2 centimeters up. From point 1, 3-4 centimeters are laid down. From the point of intersection with the waist line TT1, 1.5 centimeters are set aside to the right and left and connect them to points 5-6 and 2.

Coat pattern: third stage of construction

Construction of the front of the coat

Coat neckline. From point W, add 7.5 centimeters to the left (1/3 of the semicircle of the neck by measurement plus 1.5 centimeters for all sizes): 18: 3+1.5=7.5. From point W, 8 centimeters are laid down (1/3 of the neck semicircle by measurement plus 2 centimeters for all sizes): 18: 3+2=8.

Points 7,5 and 8 are connected by a dotted line, dividing it in half. From point Ш through the division point of the dotted line, 7.5 centimeters are laid out. Points 7.5 are connected to point 8 by a concave line.

Shoulder length from neckline to chest dart. From point 7.5 (top), 4 centimeters are laid to the left and then down - 1 centimeter. Points 1 and 7.5 (top) are connected. From point G1 to the left, 10.5 centimeters are set aside (neckline from point W to point 7.5 plus 4 centimeters - shoulder length from neckline to dart minus 1 centimeter for all sizes): 7.5+4-1=10.5 .

Points 1 and 10.5 are connected.

Coat chest dart. The right dart line is equal to the distance from point 1 to the armhole line minus the increase in the depth of the floodplain (in this case it is 3 cm). The right line of the dart from point 1 to point 3 is divided in half and 4 centimeters are set aside from the division point to the left (the semicircle of the chest according to the measurement minus the semicircle above the chest according to the measurement): 48-44 = 4.

The left dart line is drawn through points 9.5 and 4 with a length equal to the right dart line, and point P3 is placed.

Shoulder length from bust dart to armhole. Point P3 is connected by a dotted line to the upper division point of line PG2 (back). From point P3 along the dotted line, 9 centimeters are set aside to the left (the length of the shoulder according to the measurement minus 4 centimeters is the length of the shoulder from the neckline to the chest dart): 13-4 = 9.

Point 9 is connected to the lower division point of line P2G3. From point 9, 2 centimeters are laid down and connected to point P3.

Coat armhole line. The dotted line from point 2 to the lower division point of line P2G3 is divided in half and 1 centimeter is set aside from the division point to the right. From the lower right corner of the armhole, dividing the corner in half, set aside 2.5 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn through points 2.1, the lower dividing point of the line P2G3, point 2.5 and, touching the descent line of the armhole, to point G4.

Side seam of the coat. 2 centimeters are set aside from point T2 to the right. The side seam line is drawn through points G4, 2, L2 until it intersects with the DC line and point H is placed.

Designing the waistline of the coat on the pattern. From point T1, 2 centimeters are laid down and connected to point 2 (side seam).

Coat hip line. 2 centimeters are laid down from point L1 and connected to point L2.

Bottom line of the coat. From point C, line BC is extended downward by 2 centimeters and connected to point H.

Dart at the waistline of the coat (front). From point 2 (waist line) 9 centimeters are set aside to the left (distance from point 10.5 to point G1 minus 1.5 centimeters for all sizes): 10.5-1.5 = 9.

Point 9 is connected to point 10.5. From point 10.5, 5-6 centimeters are laid down.

From point 9 to the left, 3 centimeters are set aside and connected to point 5-6.

The depth of the front dart of the coat is divided in half and a dotted line is drawn down from the division point until it intersects with the hip line. 2 centimeters are laid upward from the intersection point and connected to points 9 and 3.

Dart at the waistline of the coat (side). From point G3, 2.5-3 cm is set aside to the right and a dotted line is drawn down until it intersects with the hip line. From the point of intersection of the hip line, 2 centimeters are laid upward, and from point 3, 4-5 centimeters are laid down. From the point of intersection of the dotted line with the waist line, put 1 centimeter to the right and left and connect them to points 4-5 and 2.

Increase for coat fastener (side). From point 8 (neck) and point 2 (bottom line) put 4-5 centimeters to the right and connect them.

From point 8, 1.5-2 centimeters are laid down. A smooth line is drawn through point 1.5-2 to point 5. From point C and from point 2 (descent of the waist line) 3 cm are set aside.

Points 3, 3, 5 are connected.

Note.Pattern drawing calculations are given for a single-breasted coat. To pattern a double-breasted coat, add 8-10 centimeters to the side. If the semicircle of the hips according to the measurement (together with an increase of 3 centimeters for all sizes) turns out to be greater than according to the pattern drawing, then when cutting, make the corresponding increase: 1/2, the difference between the semicircle of the hips according to the measurement (together with the increase) and the pattern drawing is added to front and 1/2, the difference is towards the back.

Coat pattern: fourth stage of construction (sleeve)

Pattern of a two-seam sleeve for a coat

Draw a rectangle ABCD.
Coat sleeve width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 18 centimeters (1/3 of the semicircle of the chest by measurement plus 2 centimeters for all sizes):
48: 3+2 = 18.
The length of the sleeve.The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 58 centimeters (sleeve length according to measurement).

Sleeve hem height. From point A, 17 centimeters are laid down and point P is placed (3/4 of the depth of the jacket's armhole plus 2 centimeters for all sizes): (20: 4x3) + 2 = 17.
From point P, a straight line is drawn to the right until it intersects with line BC, and the intersection point is designated by the letter P1.

Elbow line.The PD line is divided in half. From the division point, 2 centimeters are set aside upward and point L is placed. From point L, a straight line is drawn to the right until it intersects with line BC and the intersection point is designated by the letter L1.
Construction of the upper half of the sleeve

Front seam.From points P, L and D, put 4 centimeters to the left and connect. 2 centimeters are set aside from point L to the left. The front seam line is drawn through points 4, 2, 4.

Sleeve hem line. Line AB is divided in half and the division point is designated by the letter O. 5 centimeters are laid upward from point P.
Points O and 5 are connected by a dotted line, divided in half, and the division point is designated by the letter O1. Points A and O1 are connected by a dotted line and divided into three equal parts. The lower division point is designated by the letter O2. From point P, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2.5 centimeters. 5 centimeters are laid upward from point P1 and point P2 is placed.

Through point P2, a dotted line of arbitrary length is drawn to the right and left. 4 centimeters are set aside from point P2 to the right.
The distance VP2 is divided in half, the division point is designated Oz. Points O and O3 are connected by a dotted line, divided in half, and 1.5 centimeters are set aside from the division point upward at right angles to the dotted line. The sleeve hem line is drawn through points 4, 2.5, 5, O2, O, 1.5, Oz, 4.

Elbow seam line. 4 centimeters are set aside from point L1 to the right and connected to point 4 (upper). From point 4 (top) 9 centimeters are laid down. Then, from point D, 14 centimeters are set aside to the right (semicircle of the wrist by measurement plus 5 centimeters for all sizes):
9+5 = 14. Points 14 and 9 are connected by a dotted line, divided in half and 1 centimeter is set aside from the division point to the right. The elbow suture line is drawn through points 4, 9, 1, 14, lengthening it down by 3 centimeters.

Bottom line.The bottom line is drawn through points 4, D, 3.

The fold line of the front of the sleeve. From point L, 2 centimeters are set aside to the right. The fold line is drawn through points D, 2, P and further until it intersects with the sleeve hem line.

When ironing, the front seam line is pulled back, and the elbow seam line is ironed.

Pattern of the lower half of the coat sleeve

Front seam.From points P, 2 and D, put 3 centimeters to the right and connect them.

Bottom line.From point 3 (ulnar seam) 2 centimeters are set aside to the left. The bottom line passes through points 3 and 2.

Elbow line.From point 3 to the right, 9.5 centimeters are set aside (1/4 of the chest semicircle by measurement minus 2.5 centimeters for all sizes):
48: 4-2,5=9,5.

Elbow seam line. From point 3 to the right, 10 centimeters are set aside (1/4 of the chest semicircle by measurement minus 2 centimeters for all sizes): 48: 4-2 = 10.

The elbow seam line is drawn through points 2, 9.5, 10 and further until it intersects with the dotted line. The intersection point is designated by the letter 04.

Top notch.The line from point 3 to point 10 is divided into three equal parts and the division point on the left is designated by the letter 05. The notch line is drawn through points 3, O5 and O4. 2 centimeters are set aside from point O4 to the left and connected to the notch line (addition in case of need to narrow the sleeve).

Coat pattern: fifth stage of construction (collar)

Collar pattern for a women's coat

When building patterns collar coattake a shelf with a drawn lapel. The lapel of the coat is drawn by the designer based on the selected model. Then you need to mark the position of the top loop.

Point A is placed down at a distance of 1.5 cm from the loop.
On the continuation of the shoulder line, a segment GG1 is laid equal to 2.5-3 cm (the height of the collar stand).

Line AG1 is the inflection line of the lapel. A tangent to the curve of the neck is drawn parallel to this line. The point of its intersection with the shoulder line is P, the point of contact with the inflection line of the lapel is G2.

On the continuation of the line of tangency from point P, a segment of PN is laid off, equal to the length of the back neck (along the base) plus 0.5-1 cm.
ШШ1 - 2.5-3 cm (in this case, the angle ШШ1П is 90 degrees).

Set aside the collar width SHW = 6-11 cm (according to the model).
The end and departure line of the collar, as well as the ledge of the lapel, are designed according to the model.

One-piece and cut-off shawl-type collars are constructed in a similar manner. The difference is that the collar line is formed by a line (the configuration of which is determined by the model) smoothly turning into the lapel line.