How to sew a jersey dress size 52. Basic knitted dress pattern
Basic pattern without a chest tuck is used not only for sewing dresses, but also for T-shirts, tops, bombers and other products made from highly elastic knitted fabrics. Since the design does not provide for tucks or embossed seams, fitting to the figure is achieved due to the properties of the material. Beginning craftswomen will especially like this pattern - after all, building a pattern is very simple, and you can sew the product quickly enough without spending a lot of time. On our website you will find large collection stylish models that you can sew on your own according to this pattern.
Pattern of a dress without a tuck - building a design
To build a pattern, you need to take the following measurements (in the example we use):
- Bust - 92 cm;
- Waist circumference - 72 cm;
- Hip circumference - 98 cm;
- Back length to waist - 42.5 cm;
- Shoulder height oblique - 44 cm;
- Front length to waist - 46 cm;
- Shoulder height oblique front - 46 cm;
- Armhole depth - 20 cm;
- Hip height - 20 cm;
- Neck girth - 37 cm;
- Shoulder length - 12 cm;
- The length of the product on the back - 60 cm.
Stepping back from the top of the sheet 10 cm, put point A in the left corner. Draw a vertical and horizontal line. On a vertical line down from the point, set aside:
- AG \u003d 20 cm - Depth of the armhole according to the measure;
- AT \u003d 42.5 cm - Length of the back to the waist according to the measure;
- TB \u003d 20 cm - Height of the hips according to the measure;
- AH = the length of the product according to the measure.
Draw horizontal lines from points G, T, B, H. From point A draw a short horizontal line.
From the point G to the right, set aside along the line the segment ГГ1 \u003d 46 cm - 1/2 of the chest girth according to the measure. Draw a vertical line through the point G1 down - points T1, B1, H1 are obtained at the intersection - and arbitrarily up.
From point G to the right, set aside the width of the back GG2 \u003d 1/8 OG + 5.5 cm (for all sizes) \u003d 92/8 + 5.5 \u003d 17 cm. Raise the perpendicular upwards from point G2 - point A1 is obtained at the intersection. From the point G1 to the left, set aside the width of the chest: G1G3 \u003d 1/4OG - 4 \u003d 92/4-4 \u003d 19 cm.
Armhole center line. Divide G2G3 in half - you got the point G4 (middle of the armhole). From the point G4, lower the perpendicular down to the line HH1.
Rice. 1. Basic pattern of the product without tuck
Back construction
Back neckline. From point A to the right, set aside 1/6 of the circumference of the neck according to the measure + 1 cm. We will also use this calculated value when constructing the front neck. From the resulting point up, set aside 2 cm for all sizes. Draw a line for the back neckline AA2 on the template.
Back shoulder. From point T, build an auxiliary arc with a radius equal to the measure Oblique Shoulder Height minus 1 cm (measure Oblique Shoulder Height (VPK) is measured along the back from the point of the spinal column along the waist to the point of articulation of the shoulder with the arm). Draw a shoulder line A3P = Shoulder length by measure - 1 cm so that the point P lies on the auxiliary arc.
Armhole and side line. Divide A1G2 in half (auxiliary point), draw a line for the back armhole along the pattern.
From point T to the right, set aside TT2 = 1/4 of the waist circumference by measurement = 72/4 = 18 cm. From point B to the right, set aside BB2 = 1/4 of the circumference of the hips by measurement = 98/4 = 24.5 cm Draw a smooth line of the side , connecting in series the points G4, T2, B2 and H2.
Building the front
From the point T1 upwards, set aside the segment T1Sh \u003d Length of the front to the waist according to the measure. From point Ш to the left, draw a horizontal segment ШШ1 = Г1Г3, connect points Ш1 and Г3.
Front neck. From point Ш to the left, set aside ШШ2 \u003d 1/6 OSH + 1 cm and then from point Ш draw an arc with the same radius.
Front shoulder. From point T1, build an auxiliary arc with a radius equal to the measure Shoulder height oblique front minus 1 cm (measurement Shoulder height oblique front (Vpkp) is measured from the center of the front along the waist line to the extreme point of the shoulder). Draw a shoulder line W2P1 = Shoulder length according to the measurement -1 cm so that the point P1 lies on the auxiliary arc.
Armhole and side line. Divide the segment Ш1Г3 in half and set aside 1 cm from the division point to the right. Draw the line of the front armhole along the pattern from point P1 through point 1 to point G4.
Set aside T1T3 \u003d 1/4 Waist circumference by measurement \u003d 18 cm, B1B3 \u003d H1H3 \u003d 1/4 Hip circumference by measurement \u003d 24.5 cm.
IMPORTANT! In the above construction of the basic pattern without a chest tuck, negative additions to the elasticity of the material by volume are not taken into account. For very elastic materials, they should be introduced into the design, depending on the style of the product.
Remove the details of the back and front of the product on tracing paper and cut out with allowances for the seams and hem along the bottom (Fig. 2).
Rice. 2. Details of the cut of the back and front of the product without darts
Pattern of a non-stop sleeve to the bodice without darts
Measurements needed to build the sleeve:
Sleeve length by measure - 61 cm;
Arm circumference at the top (shoulder circumference) - 28 cm.
From the basic pattern of the back without darts, it is necessary to take a measurement AB (armhole depth) (Fig. 3). This measurement will be used when constructing the sleeve pattern.
Rice. 3. Measure for building a pattern of a non-stop sleeve
From the point O, lay vertically down. The length of the sleeve according to the measure - mark the point H (Fig. 4). From point O down, set aside the Height of the circle: Wok \u003d 3/4 AB - point O1 has been received. From point O1 to the left and right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length. From the point O1 to the left and right along the horizontal lines, set aside 1/2 of the Shoulder girth + an increase in the freedom of fitting (the amount of the increase depends on the style of the product and can be from 0 to 2 cm; for products made of highly elastic materials, the increase can be negative) - obtained points O2 and O3. Connect the points O-O2 and O-O3 with straight lines.
Rice. 4. Pattern of a non-stop sleeve
On the segment OO2 from the point O2, set aside 2/5 of the length of the segment OO2 - the point O4 is obtained. Divide the segment OO4 in half and draw up a perpendicular 2 cm long. Divide the segment O2O4 in half and draw down a perpendicular 0.5 cm long. Connect the points O; 2; O4; 0.5; O2 by pattern or by hand.
On the segment OO3 from the point O3, set aside 2/5 of the length of the segment OO3 - the point O5 is obtained. Divide the segment OO5 in half and draw up a perpendicular 1.5 cm long. Divide the segment O3O5 in half and draw down a perpendicular 0.5 cm long. Connect the points O; 1.5; O5; 0.5; O3 by pattern or by hand.
From point H, draw left and right segments equal to 1/2 Wrist circumference + 1 cm: H1H2 \u003d Wrist circumference + 2 cm (the increase in wrist circumference can be increased depending on the style and material properties). Connect the points H1-O2 and H2-O3 with straight lines. Set aside 0.5 cm from point H and draw the bottom line of the sleeve H1-0.5-H2 slightly concave.
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We continue the theme of building patterns for knitwear and other elastic fabrics. The dress pattern is ready. It remains to build a drawing sleeves to this dress.
ATTENTION: To build a sleeve pattern, we need some data from the drawing of the base of the dress made of elastic fabric. If you have not yet built a pattern for the base of the dress, we recommend using ours. Because The collar of the sleeve must match the specific armhole.
Here, as in previous articles, we use step by step instructions building drawings.
To build a sleeve pattern, we need to take a few measurements.
Taking measurements
I remind you that we take and write down measurements from our conditional figure in the table, and you take and write down the measurements taken from your figure or from the figure of the person you are going to sew a dress for.
Name of measurements and symbols | cm | Taking measurements |
|---|---|---|
The length of the sleeve dr | The measuring tape runs from the shoulder point along the freely lowered arm to the desired length. The measure is recorded in full. |
|
Arm length to elbow Drl | The measuring tape runs from the shoulder point to the elbow. The measure is recorded in full. |
|
Shoulder girth Op | The measuring tape runs horizontally across the top widest part of the shoulder. (So that the top edge of the measuring tape touches armpit.) The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Oz wrist circumference | The centimeter tape runs horizontally along the wrist joint, taking into account the bone. The measure is recorded in full. |
In the upper part of the sheet we draw a horizontal line, divide it in half, put point A, from which we lower the perpendicular down with a length equal to the measure Sleeve length (58cm) and put the point H. Draw a horizontal line through the point H - this sleeve bottom line.
Eye height
From point A down we set aside ½ of the distance AG from the drawing of the back plus 2 cm and put a point O, through which we draw a horizontal line.
AG:2+2=22:2+2=13cm.
We give all calculations as an example, using measurements from our conditional figure, and you substitute your data in all formulas and make your calculations.
elbow line
From point A down we put off the measurement Arm length to elbow and put a point L, through which we draw a horizontal line. In our example, this measurement is 31cm.
Sleeve Width
From point O right and left set aside a value equal to half the amount of the measurement Shoulder girth and allowances. The increase in our case is 2 cm. Substitute your data into the formula and continue building.
(Op + Pp): 2 \u003d (26 + 2): 2 \u003d 14cm.
On the edges of these segments we put points O1 and O2. Through these points we draw vertical lines up and down.
Sleeve okat
We divide the segment AO in half and put the point A1 through which we draw a horizontal line. On this line, from point A1 to the left and right, set aside ½ of the distance OO1 plus 1 cm and set points A2 and A3, respectively.
;A1A2=A1A3=14cm:2+1cm=8cm.
From point O1 through point A2 we draw a straight line until it intersects with a horizontal line passing through point A. Also from point O2 we draw a straight line through point Az until it intersects with the above horizontal. See drawing.
On the resulting line from point A2 up and down, we set aside a distance equal to half the segment O1A2 and denote it by points C and C1. Also, from point A3 on both sides, set aside half the distance A3O2 and set points P and P1.
Perpendiculars:
from point C to the left set aside 1 cm and set point C2,
from point C1 to the right we set aside 0.6 cm and put point C3,
from the point P to the right we set aside 0.8 cm and set the point P2,
from the point P1 to the left we set aside 1.5 cm and set the point P3.
We make out eye line sleeves connecting successively smooth curve points O1, C3, A2, C2, A, P2, A3, P3, O2.
Today we want to offer you a pattern for this burgundy-red dress with pleated sleeves. Why do women like knitted dresses so much?
Firstly, they are easy to care for and such dresses practically do not wrinkle. Secondly, a knitted dress like ours can be worn for any occasion - and you will always look great. And thirdly, this is perhaps the most important thing - such a dress is sewn very simply and quickly - literally in a day!
The pattern of a knitted dress is modeled according to. Sleeve - by
Rice. 1. Modeling front and back
Rice. 2. Sleeve modeling
IMPORTANT! Different kinds jerseys have varying degrees of stretch. That is why, when constructing a pattern-base of a dress without darts, this should be taken into account.
Dress pattern - modeling
On the pattern of the front of the dress from the neckline, set aside 10 cm down, on the shoulder - 4 and 5 cm. On the side down from the armhole line, set aside 1 cm. Draw a new line of the front neckline, armhole line along the pattern. In addition, build and reshoot the front facing with a width of 3 cm (see Fig. 1. Pattern of a knitted dress - modeling).
The back of the knitted dress is modeled as shown in Figure 1. From the neckline, lay down 4 cm along the shoulder line and 2 cm in the middle of the back. Draw a new line for the neck of the back. Additionally, re-cut the facing of the neck of the back with a width of 3 cm.
Modeling the sleeves of a knitted dress
The sleeve of the dress is cut from pleated fabric to match. If you cannot buy pleated knitwear for sleeves, we recommend that you give the material for pleating in advance.
Reshoot the sleeve pattern, raise the rollback of the sleeve by 3 cm. Draw a new rollback of the sleeve.
How to cut a knitted dress with sleeves according to a pattern
From a smooth knitted fabric, cut out:
Before the dress - 1 piece with a fold
The back of the dress - 1 piece with a fold
Front neckline - 1 piece with a fold
Turning the neck of the back - 1 piece with a fold
Additionally, cut out 2 pieces for cuffs 6 cm wide (3 cm finished and about 23 cm long).
From pleated jersey cut out:
Dress sleeve - 2 parts
Seam allowances - 1 cm, bottom - 4 cm.
How to sew a knitted dress
On the details of the dress, sweep and stitch the side and shoulder seams with an overlay seam.
Stitch the seams of the sleeves. Sweep the sleeves into the armholes (along the sleeves, laying the folds a little deeper - if necessary), sew. Lay the pleated folds along the bottom of the sleeves (lay each pleat a little deeper) to a length of 23 cm. Strengthen the cuffs with thermal fabric from the outside, stitch along the short sides. Baste the cuffs to the allowances along the bottom of the sleeves, stitch, bend in half, tuck the allowance and baste. Sew along the seam allowance close to the seam.
Reinforce the neckline with thermal fabric. Baste and stitch along the shoulder seams. Put a facing on the neck, sweep, grind. Unscrew the facing to the wrong side, tuck and sew to the edge.
Every woman has ever thought about making her own clothes. It's so nice, and definitely everything will be in size, in your favorite colors and from natural fabric. But everything stops simply on desire and ideas.
Many people think that it is very difficult and expensive. Let's try to dispel these stereotypes, because sewing a simple dress without a pattern with your own hands is not an exorbitant dream, but a reality.
For comfortable sewing you will need knitted fabric(if sleeves are needed longer than 3/4, then a little more knitwear is needed), threads to match the color and a special needle for knitwear.
Calculation of knitwear
With a fabric width of 1.5 m, you will need: one bodice length + one selected skirt length (do not forget 5-8 cm for allowances).
It is better to first quickly sketch a small drawing with the selected style, then make a large-scale approximate pattern in order to estimate the amount of material on the fabric.
Important! If the jersey width of 150 cm does not fit the hips, then you will have to take 2 lengths of the skirt!
Approximate pattern
In order for the dress to fit like a glove, it is necessary to measure the volume of the chest, waist and hips, as well as the width and length of the back, the full length of the sleeve, and of the dress itself. The volume of the sleeve is measured directly where the length ends.
The width of the back is measured not from behind, but from above, so that the end of the centimeter touches the shoulder. And the length of the back is measured from shoulder level to our waist.
Straight dress without a pattern for every day
Fitted dress with sun skirt
Cutting on fabric
You can not make a pattern on paper, but work directly with the fabric.
We measure 4 cm from above, set the starting point, slightly moving away from the edge. We mark the length of the back, and draw perpendicular to the waist line. From it we mark the length to the line of the hips. Now we divide the value of the back length by two, and draw a line. In addition, we note the desired length of the dress itself. From the very original point, we measure the length of the neck, about 9 centimeters, about 3 centimeters upwards, we connect these two points with an arc. Now you need to measure the required volumes.
We draw a slightly rounded line along the back to the level of the hips. Let's set aside all the necessary volumes, after dividing them by two and adding a couple of centimeters to be sure. At the very bottom, we mark a point at the level of measuring the hips, but minus one and a half cm for narrowing, connecting the points together.
Important! From the very bottom to the girth point of the hips, we must connect with a ruler, the rest can be dotted by hand.
After that, from the line of the chest, mark the point of the width of the back and draw the line of the shoulder slightly at an angle, from the length of the neckline to the width of the shoulder. From this point we set aside the length of the sleeve. At the end, we draw the length of the girth of the sleeve, always at a right angle. Next, draw the sleeve itself. Here you can show your imagination and make it wider or, conversely, narrower by connecting the end of the sleeve to the waist girth point.
After that, connecting the fabric with pins, carefully cut out the pattern.
Important! The beauty of this pattern is that you don’t need to count anything else, it remains only to transfer it to the fabric and sew it. On the fabric, you need to add another 2 centimeters above the pattern, but only at the level of the neckline, then the lines should converge.
You can make a seam in the center of the front, for this you will need to cut the fabric in half. This seam will add some zest to the dress. After all the seams have been swept away, try it on yourself to make sure that all calculations are perfect.
How to process the neck?
Alternatively, beauty can be done with the help of an oblique inlay. This is a rather complicated process, but various master classes can be found on the Internet, they will explain to you in detail and clearly all the pitfalls and possible difficulties. The only negative is the inadmissibility of missing or doing something wrong, because you have to unpick, and this can ruin the look.
How to decorate sleeves?
You can just leave them straight, but if you really want to, or suddenly there was not enough length of the fabric, then you can make cuffs or lace, just pick up not very catchy, then the dress will turn out a little ridiculous.
As you can see, sewing such a dress will not take much time and effort, but at the end you will get a comfortable dress that will fit perfectly on the figure. And most importantly - it will be your own work, so every time you wear this dress, you will be proud of yourself!
From GRASSER?
There are a lot of products and we will start the review with a basic pattern
The must have of the current season is a turtleneck dress. You need minimal modeling of basic patterns and a super comfortable product in your wardrobe
How I modeled:
✔️ Adjusted the details of the back and front in length. Each has its own elongation. For this correction, it is necessary to measure the desired length along the back from the 7th cervical vertebra and identify the difference.
✔️ Removed the middle seam on the back details. The presence of the middle seam eliminates the transverse crease in the lumbar region. But my material is sufficiently loose, extra seams are not needed and I am not embarrassed by a small transverse hall, everything is quite vital.
✔️ Removed the chest tuck and transferred the solution to fit.
✔️Due to the fact that the solution of the chest tuck was transferred to the fit, I reshaped the line of the side seam on the details of the front.
✔️ Designed a high stand-up collar. The height of my rack in finished form is 10 cm, in a cut without allowances, respectively, 20 cm. But the length of this part depends very much on your material. My stance is 15 cm shorter than the circumference of the neck! This difference in magnitude made it possible for me to use an iron to create nice shape necks.
When sewing such material as I have, there are certain subtleties. I did not want to use a flat seam, which outwardly forgives the product. Therefore, in order for the product to turn out to be of high quality and to be worn for a long time, I was a little smarter and found a few simple solutions that I am very pleased with.
So, how I sewed a knitted dress.
There were several experiments that, in my opinion, gave good results. I pre-wetted the pure wool knitwear and let it dry. The shrinkage was insignificant.
1. I steamed the knitted fabric, aligning the knitting structure. When steaming with an iron, she did not touch the fabric and constantly molded the fabric with her hands.
2. I cut out the details, strictly observing the direction of the knitting columns.
3. When sewing, I used one machine - a 4-thread overlock. I put textured thread in the loopers. In needles, ordinary reinforced thread No. 50.
4. I used silicone tape to stabilize the shoulder sections. The jersey is loose, the shoulders definitely need to be stabilized. 
5. At the bottom of the sleeve, I glued the hem allowance area with the thinnest doubler on a knitted basis. What did it give me? The allowance on the bottom of the sleeve does not stretch and the cut is well overcast, also without stretching. Stitched the sleeve into the open armhole 
6. I connected the details of the front and back along the side cuts, forming a fit in the area of the chest tuck.
7. With the bottom of the product, I did exactly the same as with the bottom of the sleeve. I glued the area of the hem allowance with doubler. I know that when sewing such dresses at home, the bottom is thoroughly stretched both during sewing and during operation. I didn't have such a problem. By the way, when overcasting the cut along the bottom of the product and along the bottom of the sleeve, I used a 4-thread stitch for additional stabilization of the cut. 
8. I connected the collar-stand into a ring with hand stitches and carefully measured only the collar. I did not put it in the neck of the product. Firstly, I didn’t want to injure the area of the untreated neck, and secondly, I needed the fit of the rack in the neck area. I realized that the fit is not enough. Ripped and adjusted the length of the rack. I measured it again and only after that I connected the part on the overlock into a ring.
9. I bent the rack along the inflection line and threw it into the neck, greatly stretching the sections of the rack, because my difference turned out to be significant in relation to the cut of the neck.
10. Stitched and at the same time overcast the cuts on a 4-thread overlock. On the iron, she stretched the cut of the neck, but did not stretch the upper edge of the inflection of the rack. Thus, I formed and received a very beautiful anatomical stance.
11. It remains to hem the bottom of the sleeves and the bottom of the product. I did not want to put a flat seam, here, in my opinion, it is not appropriate. The only way out is to hem by hand or on a blind stitch machine. I chose the manual option. But what thread? Having tried everything, I settled on a silicone thin transparent thread. It stretches well and perfectly returns to its original state, it can be black and translucent white color. A translucent thread was at hand, and it went into action. I have never regretted using it. The main thing is to first adapt, test on a sample. 
12. By the way, after each machine operation, I performed a wet-heat treatment of the treated areas with steam. I only touched the duplication areas with an iron.
Before doing just that, I experimented with edge banding, hand crocheting, and so on. this option was the best.
Here is the process of creating a dress, I hope you found it useful. Good luck with your tailoring! Your
