Thread thread fabric solution. Sewing threads

These harnesses just have a lot of advantages - they are amazingly plastic and surprisingly strong, a set necessary materials minimal, jewelry options are innumerable. And finally, making them is very simple :)

But it was not without its drawbacks: (The process often causes addiction, something akin to alcohol - you want to knit more and more harnesses, longer and longer, there is a need to try all possible and impossible colors, patterns, shapes. At some point you suddenly catch yourself thinking "I didn’t drink in the morning today I didn’t knit - the day was gone" and you notice that your hands involuntarily search for and squeeze an imaginary hook. the road to the treasured bead and thread storage :)

If such a prospect does not scare you and you are ready to take a risk, welcome under cat. However, if you are ALREADY hooked on them, anyway - welcome !, after all, you have nothing to lose anyway :)

SHORT INTRODUCTION

For those who have never encountered THEM

Knitted harnesses are made in two stages:

1) All beads are strung on a thread, randomly or in a certain order.

2) A tourniquet is knitted - in half-columns in a spiral. At the base of the harness - at least three loops. Each half-column knits a loop with a bead of the previous row and at the same time adds a new loop with a new bead.

Everything that is written below is the details of these two stages.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS

Basic set

The required set of materials is minimal. These are beads, threads, a hook, a needle. One of the important conditions for success is their correspondence to each other. The following correspondences are my choice, of course, it is not necessary to follow it, because each needlewoman not only has different preferences, but also the technique and knitting density are different.

My favorite bead for this technique is 8/0. Mercerized cotton (Iris, Vita Cotton Pelican, DMC or Ancor Pearl Cotton #8) and classic crochet cotton (Aunt Lidia's #10, DMC Crochet Cotton #10, etc.) are perfect for it. It is convenient to collect such beads fine needle for tapestry or embroidery - they have a long eye.Suitable hooks - approximately 1.65 mm to 1.75 mm.

The same threads / needles are suitable for large 6/0 beads, but I like it more not as an independent material, but as an addition to 8/0, for relief patterns, spirals, etc.

For smaller beads - 11/0 and 15/0 - a synthetic thread for beading or sewing is well suited, a thin, beaded needle will be needed, a hook from approximately 1.3 mm to 1.6 mm. (And yet - thin fingers, good eyes and strong nerves. Since I don’t have any of the above, one piece of jewelry made of small beads was enough for me for now :))

If you want to use Iris or Pearl Cotton #8 with 11/0 beads (namely, this is the most common and easily available beads), you will most likely find that a tapestry needle, and even with a threaded thread, cannot be pushed through the bead, but the thread is not threaded into the bead needle. I got out of the situation by stringing everything first on a thin thread, then tying it with Pearl Cotton and carefully moving the entire set. If you decide to use this method, do not tie the threads together, but tie a thin thread on a thick one so that the knot is only from a thin thread, and the thick one is simply bent, folded twice.

Another easy way to set small beads on a thick thread is from rikki_t_tavi : Insert a piece of beaded thread into a thin needle, with two ends at once, throw the end of the knitting thread into the loop formed - and calmly pick up even small beads and thin glass beads on thread No. 5.

And one more interesting solution for a thick thread from olive_enola : http://businka-lisa.livejournal.com/22659.html?thread=2127235#t2127235

How to determine which beads you have if the label is silent or missing

As easy as pie! Type 1 cm of beads on the needle and count how many you have scored. Now compare with the table:

Additional materials and tools

An additional, optional set - various beads, metal fittings, clasps, some jewelry tools.

However, you can get by with ordinary household tools - depending on what kind of fastener you will be making, you may need: small pliers (wrap their ends with a piece of electrical tape to protect the wire from scratches), wire cutters, knitting needle - make rings out of wire.

TRAINING ON CATS

For training, we need 8/0 beads of two colors and a thread of any light color of the appropriate thickness - it is much better to see where to stick the hook on it. In the circumference of the flagellum, we will have 8 beads.

My harnesses usually have four to eight warp loops. After seven, the plasticity of the tourniquet is partially lost, you can still bend them, but now you can’t tie a knot. I don't know how to deal with this yet :(

We collect 25-30 centimeters of beads, alternating colors:

We knit the initial loop:

We knit air loop- for it we will fix the ring:

We knit the next 8 air loops with a bead. We separate 8 beads from the set, move the first one close to the just knitted air loop, and then grab the thread with a hook and stretch it:

Repeat with all separated beads:

We close the ring with a half-column, we get the first row:

For the second row, we separate 8 more beads. We again move the first bead close to the loop on the hook, and stick the hook into the first air loop knitted with the bead, we knit a half-column.

VERY IMPORTANT!

The hook must be stuck into the loop BEFORE and OVER the bead, and the thread should be kept BEFORE and OVER the work, as if in the middle of the cord. If everything is done correctly, the newly knitted bead turns over and, as it were, presses, sits on top of the bead of the previous row

The color of the pushed bead and the bead of the previous row should be the same. If the colors are mixed, then something was knitted incorrectly and the work needs to be dissolved until it “matches”

In practice, I knit each loop in four steps:

1. I push a new bead towards me with the nail of my index finger

2. I stick a hook into a loop with a bead

3. With the same fingernail I turn over, push away, move the bead on the "stuck" loop

4. I grab the thread and knit a loop OVER the just turned bead

We knit all 8, bead by bead, in a circle - pushed, stuck, turned over, pushed away, knitted.

Second row on the side:

Move and knit 8 more beads. Third row, top view:

Third row - side:

And this is what the first row looks like now:

Pay attention to the location of the beads: in the knitted first two rows, the direction of the holes is parallel to the bundle, in the third, not knitted, it is perpendicular.

From the working end, the tourniquet looks like a flower, with a bead at the tip of each petal. The number of petals should remain unchanged, if they suddenly become 7 or 9 - dissolve until the moment when they become 8 again. However, if you train on beads of two colors, the error will be noticeable without counting :)

After the third or fourth row, I usually stop counting beads and rows, just knit everything typed in a circle. The tourniquet is knitted, untwisted, built all the time from the inside, a knitted chain is a spiral in the middle, beads around hide knitting. Look in the middle of your sample - there is a twisted pigtail:

The last row is knitted without beads - that is, instead of “pushed, stuck, turned over, knitted”, we only do “stuck, turned over, knitted”, i.e. we stick in the same way as before - BEFORE and OVER the bead of the last row:

All beads are knitted:

We cut the thread, fasten the last loop and carefully sew the rest of the thread inside:

Last row completed:

And once again - the first row. All beads are located in the same way, looking in one direction:

"BLIND" or "LAZY" VARIATIONS

I call them blind and lazy because of the set - beads for such harnesses can be typed without looking at them. Very mentally, this process goes on TV :)

Pour the beads into a small container (my favorite is a plastic box with a tight lid, very convenient for travel) and move the needle in this pile - something will cling. Shift down on the "catch" thread and continue to "fish" until the desired length is reached.

Identical beads

There is simply nothing to write about, pour and drink, type and knit :)

Transparent beads on a multi-colored thread

It's all in the name :) - you need transparent beads and a thread of sectional dyeing.

"Bead soup" (Bead soup)

Mix of beads and beads different colors and/or different sizes. You can experiment in one scale, you can play with unexpected combinations. Or just attach the remains of everything that gets in the way.

COUNTING VARIATIONS

The simplest counting variations - spirals

A very simple and very interesting pattern, it can be knitted from multi-colored beads of the same size, or you can use different ones. With large beads, the tourniquet will twist very strongly :) By the way, we already knitted the simplest pattern for a spiral tourniquet when we trained.

And even the simplest - specks

For a tourniquet with six beads, dial the desired length in the following sequence: 4 beads of the main color, 1 larger than the additional one. This is just one of the set options, experiment!

Schemes with patterns

Ready-made harness patterns can be printed from here: http://www.beaddust.com/haekeln/hae keln.html

The eight in the upper right corner is an indication of how many beads are being harnessed. Number 32 - the number of beads in rapport. We collect beads: 9 blue, 2 yellow, 2 blue, 2 yellow, 2 blue, 3 yellow, etc.

Own schemes

On the same site you can download a program to draw up your own schemes.

Trying to make a scheme for a necklace with long beads, like this:

It looks like it is connected with 9 beads. We set this condition to the program (Pattern->Width->9) and arrange the beads. Using the arrows on the control panel, scroll the harness, look at it from different angles:

We knit a sample:

If you want to use this scheme, ignore the "4" at the end of the set, just ignore it. The number of beads between the long black "feathers" - all the time 18.

How to check the correctness of a set of complex patterns.

After you type the first rapport, check it carefully with the diagram. Tear off a piece of napkin and string it on a thread at the end of the rapport. Dial the next rapport, lay it next to the first, verified one. Compare the set - the error can often be seen without the tedious calculation. Continue to separate the rapports with pieces of paper and check the set after each rapport.

HOW MUCH BEADS TO GET?

Regardless of which calculation method you prefer, a little trick will make your work a little easier - unwind the thread of the desired length from the ball + a little to “thread it through the needle”, and fasten the thread at the ball with a second needle or crochet so that it does not unwind further. Then, during the recruitment process, you won’t need to measure anything, you will immediately see how much is left to recruit.

Easier than simple :) - multiply the desired length of the tourniquet, for example 40 cm, by the planned number of beads in a circle, for example 6. It turns out that you have to dial 240 cm (40 x 6).

By the way, if you don’t have a centimeter at hand - for me, in any case, it moves around the premises completely unpredictably and illogically - measure a thread equal in length to the already existing necklace. And so - six times. Or how many beads you have there in a circle :) And now fasten the thread at the ball - and you can dial!

Calculation method

This method is useful when knitting complex patterns, especially if you are going to use beads of different sizes or some special beads and are not sure how many you need. And just gaining an extra dozen centimeters of a complex scheme is an extreme pleasure.

Therefore, to begin with, we will collect a couple of rapports (the scheme is the same flowers, only with a colored center), we will measure the set. I got 13 cm:

Now we knit the typed and measure again. It turned out 2 cm of the finished tourniquet, i.e. 1 repeat = 1cm ( Well, it's not my fault, it happened by accident! :)) .

What follows is simple math. For a harness 20 cm long (I want a bracelet with sunflowers!) you need:
- dial 20 rapports (20 cm: 1 cm);
- have 40 middle beads in stock (20 rapports x 2 beads). By the way, also a hint: as soon as all 40 are used up, the set is finished!;
- unwind a little more than 130 cm of thread (20 rapports x 6.5 cm)

Of course, it is good to know these ways. And it's even better to know what to worry about because of uncertainty - "gaining 2 m 90 cm or 2 m 99 cm" is a completely useless exercise. Because the missing beads can be obtained later :)

CORRECTION OF DIALING ERRORS, ADDITIONAL DIALING

The easiest way to get rid of randomly collected extra beads is to split them with pliers. To protect the thread from sharp splinters, first insert a needle into the hole of the bead.

If you got beads that are resistant and you can’t take them with pliers (or there weren’t enough beads), cut the thread, remove the excess (or get the required length), tie the ends of the thread. Continue knitting - the cut ends will hide inside.

The same tactic should be used for very long lariat cords, especially if you are knitting on a thick cotton thread, the beads do not slide along it easily and moving meters of beads is not much fun. Dial the length with which it is convenient for you to work (mine is about 2 m), knit the set, cut it off ... Well, then everything is clear :)

END OF WORK

Sew on the clasp

We sew butt

In bracelets and long necklaces, you can perfectly do without a clasp :) If you decide to finish the jewelry by simply sewing it into a ring, leave the last row with an unknitted “flower”, fasten the thread, thread it through the needle.

1. Sew outward through the last knitted bead, i.e. the last bead of the penultimate row.

2. Grab the thread coming out of the first knitted bead on the tourniquet.

3. Go back to the end of the tourniquet and grab the thread coming out of the first loose bead.

4. Sew all the beads in the same step.

5. Fasten, sew and trim the rest of the thread:

and in addition: a very descriptive animated tutorial: http://www.beadpatterncentral.com/tubew elcome.html

Very interesting way set complex schemes from kozlionok :
I string the first report under the dictation of my husband, and he, in turn, records this process on my voice recorder. mobile phone. The speed is regulated by my hoots when I'm ready for the next step. Then I sit in headphones with a box on my lap and do not waste time flicking my eyes between the diagram and the box and the needle. And at the same time, there is no psychological difference between 30 beads in rapport or 270. And for the whole year, not a single mistake in the set.

WORKS OF THE MASTERS

Before you start sewing anything, you need to know the characteristics of the threads. They are different types. Different fabrics may require a different type with different characteristics. When choosing, the color, density and technique of fabric processing are taken into account.

Also, sewing threads are the most important factor on which the quality of work depends. sewing machine. No matter how well tuned your machine is, it will still not sew well if the wrong or poor quality threads are used. Thin threads will break. When using a thick thread with a thin needle, it will rub in the eye area and also break off.

After reading this article, you will be able to choose the right threads for sewing any product, whether it be a bed, children's clothing, an autumn coat or toys.

When characterizing sewing threads, they take into account their fibrous composition, thickness and where they are used. So let's get started.

Functions of sewing threads

They make beautiful stitches without tearing or deforming while wearing or using things. Sewing threads make stitches and seams aesthetically beautiful and of high quality. This is their main difference from other ordinary threads.

The threads that are used for sewing clothes must be strong. Only such "merit" will be able to withstand the wear and temperature of the needle during sewing, as well as its restoration during wear.

Fiber composition

Threads are divided into 2 groups:

• First- natural. They contain only natural fibers. Maybe cotton, linen and silk. If you are interested, you can find out all the positive properties in our article about.
• Second- chemical. The composition of these threads includes a chemical fiber. This group has 2 subgroups:
  - artificial (for example, threads made of viscose or polynose).
  - synthetic (for example, threads made of polyamide or polyester).

Marking

The abbreviation on the marking can not always be deciphered. As a rule, manufacturers use letters for marking. The numbers indicate the thickness of the thread. The higher the number, the thicker the thread.

Cotton sewing threads (cotton) began to appear in production at the end of the 19th century. Their quality depends on the raw materials and technology that are used in the process of their manufacture. If you are going to sew knitwear, if you need to make temporary stitches or lines, for individual tailoring, for needlework. They are easily dyed - this is one of the main advantages of cotton threads.

Some of the highest quality and most expensive cotton sewing threads are those that have passed. After a special treatment, these threads become stronger and less fluffy.

Reinforced sewing threads (LH), (LL), (LS) can withstand temperatures above 200 degrees. They are called universal. They guarantee high durability. Stitches with such threads are elastic and beautiful in appearance. As a rule, they are designed for sewing, overcasting and finishing stitches. Reinforced sewing threads, like cotton threads, are suitable for knitwear. They are also used for thin and medium fabrics. For suits and coats. Also for shoes, leather (and substitute), denim.

Polyester staple threads (LSh)- they are more even. They differ from the previous ones in greater elasticity. With their help, cuts are overcast, knitted items are sewn, they are used for sewing thin and medium fabrics.

Polyester thread (L)- they are stronger than all the previous ones. These threads have improved sewing properties. They are absolutely not afraid of moisture and do not collapse under its influence. All hidden stitches, machine embroidery are made from polyester thread. Embossed decorative seams are also made using this type of thread. They process fabrics with impregnation. They even process upholstered furniture and leather goods.

Polyester textured threads (LT) - This is a budget option for threads. However, they are quite flexible. They have a looped structure. Do not break down when exposed to high temperatures. As a rule, they are used for overedging sections, as well as for sewing elastic knitwear.

Polyamide sewing thread (K). The threads are strong enough. Under the influence of moisture and water are not destroyed. The only negative is the low heat resistance. Because of this, the production of these threads is not popular. They are used for shoes, leather goods, book stitching, and finishing stitches.

Viscose and natural silk threads. They are characterized by a sheen that shimmers. But compared to other threads, viscose is less durable. They are used in needlework and machine embroidery.

On our website you can at the most favorable wholesale and retail prices. For regular customers, pleasant bonuses and discounts. You can order in any quantity. Delivery is fast - 1-2 days in all regions of Ukraine. Dispatch on the day of order. You just need to fill out the form and wait for the call from the operator to confirm the purchase. Thread quality is high. We have the most available terms order.

thread structure

fibrous threads. They are made from natural and synthetic fibers. They are durable, even stronger than cotton, come in different sizes and have a huge collection of colors.

Frame- this is a combination of a complex thread and fiber. Its design, as a rule, consists of several layers. It is used for sewing different types. But of all of them, the only requirement is the high strength of the seams. Suitable for high speed sewing.

Filament threads. They, in turn, are divided into 3 subspecies:
- monofilament- the threads are strong, but not quite flexible and a little stiff to the touch;
- smooth monofilament- these are 2 connected continuous fibers; shoes are sewn from it, Leather Products and things of industry;
- textured filament- they are usually used for the fixing thread of overlapping stitches.

What threads can not be used

The answer is simple - old Soviet cotton threads. You will say that the USSR is long behind. But, oddly enough, Soviet-style cotton continues to be used. Such threads can be found in almost every housewife. It is likely that they can still be produced clandestinely. They not only make a bad stitch and often break during sewing, but also lead to wear on the sewing machine components. They may only be used for self made.

• Determine the quality and thickness of the material before buying thread.
• Inspect the thread visually. Quality should be smooth and of the same thickness.
• If you pull it a little, it won't break. It might stretch a little, but it won't break.
• Low-quality threads, as a rule, with seals and thin sections. They always interfere with sewing, as they do not pass well through the eye of the needle, move in jerks and break off.
• In order not to miss external defects that indicate poor quality, we recommend attaching a light-colored thread to a dark fabric, or a dark thread to a light one. In contrast, everything can be seen well.
• Choose a sewing needle by the number that corresponds to the thickness of the thread. Only then will the line turn out beautiful and even.
• For overlock, it is better to buy threads on a bobbin in the form of a cone with No. 35.

A few secrets

Threads made of polyester and nylon do not wear out, as they are quite strong. They are usually used for sewing elastic material. But there is one caveat. If, for example, these threads are used for knitwear, after a couple of days you can notice that the seams are wrinkled. It is possible to avoid this. You just need to slightly stretch the fabric when sewing seams.

Also, experts advise wrapping the sleeve of the sewing machine with a rubber band. You can pull it as close to the needle bar as possible. The thread must be inserted under the stretched elastic band. With this simple method, you can avoid twisting the threads during sewing sewing machine.

If you had to change the thread, then check the tension of the upper thread. The foot will need to be lowered, and the thread pulled out of the eye of the needle and pulled a little in your direction. The thread should stretch without much effort, should go smoothly and softly. If not, loosen the tension and adjust it by hand again.

Sewing threads are an indispensable assistant in the textile industry, both for mass sewing and for beginner needlewomen. They are necessary when sewing decorative items, toys, bedding, clothes for adults and children, etc. You can in our online store. Our threads are very strong, although quite thin. They are such because they do not make the seam visually unaesthetic. The threads are resistant to tearing, friction and washing, so active daily use will not spoil either the thread or the product. A huge collection of colors allows you to match the thread to the color of the fabric. Sewing threads do not shed. This allows multiple colors to be used on the same canvas. Threads are used not only for sewing, but also for embroidery, for sewing on ordinary and other decor. In ours you will find sewing threads that are ideal for or, or, or for. Also in our online store you will find, and much more, which is necessary for sewing from A to Z!

Choosing sewing threads is as important as buying fabric for a product. High-quality threads are not only the key to the successful work of the master, but also largely determine appearance seams, and, as a result, the quality of tailoring of the entire product. Modern sewing threads are divided into types, and for each type of sewing work, threads of a certain quality and number are needed. Let's try to understand the variety of threads on the market and get acquainted with the most popular in the sewing business.

Sewing thread - long, thin, evenly twisted fiber with special properties which is widely used in sewing. Sewing threads are a durable material with which fasten the details of products made of fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics, fur, leather, etc. The threads are constantly subjected to mechanical (bend, rub against the needle during sewing, exposed to high temperatures when ironing) and chemical attack(for example, in ready-made clothes- when washing, dry cleaning). All of the above degrades the properties of the threads, violates their smoothness, strength and integrity, and as a result, the threads break at the seams and in places of the strongest loads.

To minimize negative impacts on the thread, and extend its service life, it is necessary to fulfill a simple condition when choosing threads for the product - the quality of the thread must correspond to the quality of the fabric, and at the same time, the operating conditions of the product must be taken into account.

It is very important to learn how to choose the right needle and thread for the type of fabric from which the product is sewn. Before starting work, select the threads necessary for the quality and thickness, then pick up the needle to the threads.

Why is it important to choose the right needle for threads?

If you look closely at the machine needle, you can see that there is a long groove on the front side of the needle (see Fig. 1). It is in this groove that the thread is placed when sewing. Look at Fig. 1 A-B-C, it shows a section of the needle when viewed from above (a view of the needle from above in the section) and a thread.

With the correct ratio between the needle and the thread, the thread should fit into the groove, only in this way can a quality stitch be obtained (see Fig. 1A).

If the needle is too thick, the thread will be too loose in the groove and skipped stitches and thread damage may occur (fig. 1B).

A needle that is too thin will not allow the thread to lie in the groove, the thread will fray against the edges of the groove, which can lead to thread breakage (Fig. 1C).

Rice. 1 A-B-C. The location of the thread in the groove of the needle

IMPORTANT! For high-quality machine stitching, the fabric and threads must match the machine needle number.

For lightweight fabrics, use fine thread and a size 70-75 needle.
For medium-weight fabrics, use sewing thread and a size 80-90 needle.
For heavier fabrics, use thicker threads and needle size 100, 110, 120.

The following factors influence the properties and structure of sewing threads:

1. fiber composition. By composition, the threads are divided into natural (cotton, linen and silk), synthetic (polyamide, polyester and viscose), combined.
2. The number of additions. Threads are single-twisted (in 2 or 3 additions), double-twisted (in 4, 6, 9 and 12 additions).
3. Coefficient and direction of twist. The twist coefficient is the number of turns per 1 meter of thread length. From the direction of twist - right (Z) or left (S) - depends on the strength of the sewing thread. Right twist thread (Z) breaks less in the sewing machine.
4. Thread thickness. The thickness of the threads is different, and is indicated by a number or linear density (tex).
5. Finishing. Threads are glossy and matte. It is believed that glossy threads are stronger than matte threads, but much depends on the quality of the raw materials and the manufacturer.

Rice. 2. Twisting threads in 3 and 2 additions under magnification

Thread quality is very important Quality threads - a guarantee of the quality of your product! Therefore, it is better to use threads and needles from trusted manufacturers.

General purpose threads

Standard sewing threads are made from tightly twisted fibers. They are made of polyester (synthetic), mercerized cotton or with a synthetic core covered with cotton.

Rice. 3. Sewing thread Madeira Aerofil (100% polyester)

The last option combines the best properties of the first two. General purpose threads are great for sewing standard items such as sewing clothes, curtains or children's toys.

Mercerization is the process of processing cotton fabrics and threads, which gives them a shiny appearance.

Cotton threads

100% mercerized cotton threads are great for sewing. Choose threads according to the composition - use cotton with cotton, polyester with synthetic fabrics. Finished products can be washed in hot water without fear of deterioration in the quality of the threads. Both threads and fabrics will retain their appearance and strength for a long time. Cotton threads do not stretch like synthetic threads, so they can be used for decorative embroidery, as well as for sewing seams.

Rice. 4. Gutterman cotton threads

Silk threads

Silk threads are distinguished by a noble sheen and give the seams a neat finish. classic look. Such threads are used when working with silk and woolen fabrics, because their natural fibers are similar in characteristics, and silk threads are well suited for hand sewing without knots.

Rice. 5. Gutterman silk threads

Depending on the thickness, these threads are suitable for both sewing on machines and overlocks, and are also ideal for creating decorative stitches. In addition, threads can be used for sewing buttonholes and sewing on buttons. Silk threads are expensive, so synthetic threads can be a cheaper alternative for many jobs.

Threads for hand embroidery

Skeins of twisted embroidery threads are wound into bundles. They are mainly made from cotton, silk or viscose. The so-called floss threads are twisted threads for hand embroidery. These threads are ideal for embroidery and clothing decoration.

Rice. 6. Cotton floss for hand embroidery

Threads for machine embroidery are made of viscose or polyester and they have a characteristic sheen. Such threads look very impressive and can be used to fill in colored areas / spots in machine embroidery. Used in bobbins / spools and in conjunction with a needle for machine embroidery. A wide range of shades are available to give depth to the drawings.

Rice. 7. Aurora threads for embroidery

Madeira has in its assortment the perfect threads for machine embroidery - RAYON. You can use them without any restrictions for embroidery on the finest silk, or on coarse denim or skin. These threads are suitable for all home sewing and embroidery machines, and the unique color variety will please even the most demanding craftsmen.

Rice. 8. Threads for machine embroidery RAYON (100% polyester)

The world's first truly matte and color-fast thread - Frosted matt (composition - 96% polyester and 4% ceramic). These threads open up completely new aspects for all embroidery lovers. Intense natural matte tones are unlike the tones of hitherto known embroidery threads. The beauty of the shades is amazing. With these threads, you can create completely unique embroideries.

Rice. 9. Frosted matt embroidery thread, Madeira

Metallized threads for embroidery

These are completely thin metal threads or with a metal core of the thread, to give strength. They will add shine and sparkle to your things. Use them with a metal needle, store them in spools to avoid cuts.

Rice. 10. Metallic threads for embroidery

If you like to experiment, then you will definitely appreciate the threads with a metallic effect for 3D embroidery. With the help of these threads, you can create unique motifs. Due to its strength, the threads can also be used for patchwork techniques on the machine.

Rice. 11. Thread Glamor No. 12 (60% polyester, 30% metallized polyester, 10% polyamide)

Metal threads of high sparkle

Another diamond in the world of metal threads is GoldenSilver. It is a thread of very high brilliance, with an excellent optical effect. This thread is ideal for gold and silver sewing, any unique and expensive embroidery. Suitable for hand and machine embroidery.

Rice. 12. Metallic threads GoldenSilver, Madeira

Basting threads

Threads wound with less force than standard threads. This makes them suitable for temporary basting and removal without tissue damage when they are no longer needed.

Threads for finishing stitches

Finishing threads are thicker than all standard sewing threads, this gives the thread strength and makes it stand out on the fabric, so it is good for decorative stitches, sewing on buttons "tightly" and sewing upholstery fabrics. Used with a large eye needle. The composition can be natural (cotton, silk), synthetic or combined.

Rice. 13. Threads for finishing stitches

Overlock seams require much more thread than sewing, so thread is sold in large spools or cones of 1000-5000 meters. Palette options are limited, but this is enough for overlock stitches. The composition of threads for overlock is different, but polyester synthetic threads are more often used.

Rice. 14. Sewing thread for overlock

Colorless threads (monofilament)

Monofilament is a strong, transparent thread that can be used universally. This thread is especially strong and can be used as a material for stitching. Most often, this thread is used when working with thin or medium-thin fabrics, it can be used as a lower (shuttle) thread if the threads should not be visible, as well as for hand embroidery with beads, sequins, etc.

Use a colorless thread on all types of household sewing and embroidery machines. We recommend to work

Rice. 15. Colorless threads

Specialized threads exist for different purposes. A few have already been mentioned above, but check your local shops or fabric shows, there's always something new. Here are some of them.

Rice. 16. Threads for special purposes

glow in the dark thread

As the name already says, the thread glows in the dark and is very interesting for innovative techniques in embroidery or for tracing patterns on fabrics. This effect will definitely not go unnoticed!

tuxedo thread

Such threads can be used to create non-standard shapes in clothing and decor. From the temperature of the iron, such a thread shrinks, which gives a wrinkled effect to the fabric.

Water soluble thread

The water-soluble thread is used like a regular thread, but it dissolves completely in water or on contact with steam. You can use them for temporary joining, for sewing on patch pockets, for pleating, as well as for quilting and appliqué.

Basic requirements for sewing threads: strength, elasticity, twist uniformity, uniform thread thickness, abrasion resistance, absence of breaks and knots in the bobbin, color fastness; for synthetic threads - heat resistance when used in high-speed machines.

SUMMARY:

• Choose threads for each item good quality and keep vintage reels. Old threads will deteriorate much earlier than modern fabrics, so the product may need to be repaired, and the threads will come in handy.
• Choose appropriate needles (manual and machine) for thread and fabric. For example, machine needles are made for metallic threads and have an eye that will not cut the thread, while needles for "embroidering with wool" have a long eye and are designed to work with embroidery threads.
• Choose threads according to the composition - use cotton with cotton, polyester with synthetic fabrics, and silk with silk and wool.

Even more useful tips on sewing you will find on the website of the School of Sewing Anastasia Korfiati. Subscribe to free news and sew fashionable clothes together with us!

◄ INTELLIGENTLY DEVELOPED
It is convenient to store not only pasta, rice and other cereals in transparent glass jars. It is also advisable to put threads in them, grouping them by color: clearly and beautifully.

POLYESTER THREADS
These durable threads are suitable for all seams and topstitching.
Plus: also good for heavy-duty seams (e.g. from Gütermann).

SILK THREADS FOR HOOTING
The name speaks for itself. These threads are designed for sewing buttonholes, but are also suitable for decorative seams.
Plus: the seams look brilliant (eg from Gütermann).


THREADS OF SECTION DYEING
Universal threads for machine embroidery are suitable for all motifs.
Plus: embroideries look surprisingly noble (for example, from Madeira).


LINEN THREADS
These natural threads are great for hand sewing durable fabrics.
Plus: also suitable for DIY work (eg from Gütermann).


TWISTED THREADS
The strongest threads on the sprocket are only suitable for hand sewing.
Plus: backpacks, bags, etc. (for example, from Kaufhaus) can also be repaired with these threads.

BASTING THREADS
Suitable for hand sewing, basting parts.
Plus: the threads break quickly and are easily removed from thin fabrics (Kaufhaus).


THREADS FOR QUILTING
These threads are specially designed for machine stitching.
Plus: the threads are especially durable and have a very beautiful shine (for example, from Gütermann).


METALIZED THREADS
Especially good for embroidered motifs and decorative stitches.
Plus: suitable for decorating pillows, table linen, etc. (for example, from Madeira).


OVERLOCK THREADS
These thin threads are designed for overcasting cuts and blind stitches.
Plus: they are transparent, elastic and very durable (for example, from Gütermann).


THREADS FOR EMBROIDERY
Designed for all techniques and stitches.
Plus: skein is well divided into separate threads; the threads shimmer like silk (for example, from Anchor).


ELASTIC THREADS
Especially good for ruffles, frills and puffs.
Plus: when crocheting, they keep the shape of sheaves and columns (for example, from Gütermann).

TRANSPARENT THREADS
Plastic threads are great for invisible sewing on hems.
Plus: also suitable for sewing on sequins and beads (for example, from Madeira).

Photo: Jan Schmiedel, Günther Bringer/Studio 43 (11).