Pattern of women's shirt size 54 short sleeve. Fitted shirt pattern

This stylish fitted shirt is a wardrobe staple. The shirt is ideally combined with trousers, shorts, plain and bright voluminous skirts. You should definitely sew it, and then you will always have something to wear!

Modeling of a blouse is carried out according to. The sleeve is modeled according to the basic pattern of a single-seam sleeve. You will also need a stand-up collar.

ADVICE! You can sew this shirt not only from denim, but also from any other shirt fabric.

Rice. 1. Modeling the back of a fitted shirt

Modeling the back of a shirt

Draw a back yoke 13 cm wide. From the tops of the tail tuck, extend the vertical segment up to the yoke. From the line of the hips on the side, set aside 4 cm. Draw the line of the bottom of the back along the line of the hips, then to the side lift up to point 4, gently bending. Cut the pattern along the yoke line and along the tuck lines to the yoke along the red dotted line. Cut out the tuck.

Modeling a shirt shelf

Rice. 2. Modeling a shirt shelf

Transfer the bottom line of the shelf from the back pattern. Cut the pattern along the line of the chest tuck and along the lines of the tuck tuck. Close the chest tuck. Draw a shelf yoke. Draw a cutting strip of a shirt with a width of 3 cm along the line of the middle of the front (1.5 cm in each direction). Cut off the strap and yoke.

Sleeve pattern

Rice. 3. Modeling sleeves and cuffs

When modeling a sleeve, use a straight sleeve pattern. The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the circumference of the wrist according to the measurement + 7 cm. Divide the width of the sleeve along the bottom into 4 parts and from the left division point, draw up a vertical dotted line along the line of the sleeve rim.

Calculate the excess width for the narrowing of the sleeve (Width basic pattern minus the girth of the wrist with an increase) and divide it into 3 parts. Narrow the sleeve to the left, right and from the cut line to the right. Connect the resulting point with a dotted line with an okat. Shorten the sleeve by 5 cm. Cut the sleeve into 2 pieces. Additionally, draw a rectangular cuff 10 cm wide (5 cm finished) and a width equal to the girth of the wrist + 6 cm.

collar pattern

Rice. 4. Fitted shirt cut details

From the main fabric cut out:

1. The middle part of the back - 1 piece with a fold
2. Side back - 2 parts
3. Shelf - 2 parts
4. Back yoke - 1 piece with a fold
5. Shelf yoke - 2 parts
6. Plank - 2 parts
7. The upper part of the sleeve - 2 parts
8. Elbow part of the sleeve - 2 parts
9. Collar stand - 2 pieces with a fold
10. Collar departure - 2 parts with a fold
11. Pocket - 2 parts
12. Pocket flap - 4 parts

Additionally, cut out: straps for processing the cut of the sleeve - 2 parts and facings for processing the cut of the sleeve - 2 parts 3 cm wide and 13 cm long.
See more: How to cut a bar for processing a sleeve cut
Allowances on all sides - 1.5 cm.

Bend the allowances on the bottom of the shirt by 0.7 mm and stitch along the edge. On the placket and cuffs, install buttons according to the markup or baste loops and sew on buttons.
Your shirt is ready! Wear with pleasure and be happy!

A shirt is an indispensable item in every woman's wardrobe. Depending on the style and material from which the shirt is made, it can be strict, businesslike, creative, smart…

Let's build a pattern - the basis of a women's shirt in a men's style according to individual measurements, on the basis of which you can easily model various styles in the future, and we will build a detail of a button fastener in the center of the shelf. This clasp is found in many shirts.

measurements

Neck half circumference (Ssh) = 17.3;

Semicircumference of the chest of the second (CrII) = 44;

Semicircumference of the chest third (CrIII) = 42;

Half the width of the back (Ws) = 16.8;

Half the width of the first chest (WgI) = 19.1;

Waist (St) = 31.7;

Semicircumference of the hips (Sat) = 46;

Back length to waist (Dst) = 42.7;

Back length (Ds) = 40;

Front length to waist (Dpt) = 42.6;

Chest height (Bg) = 24.6;

Shoulder height oblique front (Vpkp) = 23.2;

Shoulder height oblique back (Vpks) = 42.3;

Side Height (Side) = 22;

Thigh height (Wb) = 20;

Shoulder Width (Shpl) = 12

Building a basic pattern for a women's shirt in a men's style:

Let's build a pattern-basis of a women's shirt without darts, which is ideal for owners of a small breast size. For women who have big size chest, on the front pattern, it is necessary to provide a chest side tuck. Let's get started:

1. In the upper left corner, stepping back from the top about 7 cm, we set point A. From point A we bring down a vertical line - this is the line of the middle of the back.
2. On the vertical we set aside the segments: AT \u003d Ds \u003d 40; TB \u003d Wb \u003d 20; TG \u003d Sideways - (1.5 ÷ 2) \u003d 20; HP = (2÷3). From points T, B, G, P we draw horizontal lines to the right - these are the lines of the waist, hips, chest, armhole level.
3. From point A to the right, we set aside AP \u003d Csh / 3 + (1 ÷ 0.7) \u003d 6.4. From the point P upwards PP1 = Dst - Ds = 2.7. We connect A and P1 with a line, as in the drawing - the line of the neck of the back.
4. From point P to the right, we set aside PP3 \u003d CrII + 1 + 4 \u003d 49, where 4 is an increase in freedom of fitting for shirt-type blouses, based on 2 cm to the side seam of the front and back, so the total increase in chest girth will be 8 cm. From P3 we draw a vertical line - the line of the middle of the shelf. At its intersection with horizontal lines, we mark the points G3, T3, B3.

1. On the level line of the armhole, we mark PP1 \u003d Ws \u003d 16.8; P3P2 \u003d ShgI \u003d 19.1. We draw vertically upwards. We divide the segment P1P2 in half, mark the point P4, draw a vertical down.
2. From point P1 we draw an arc with a radius of P1Pl = Shpl +1 to a tuck +1 on a lowered sleeve = 14 and an arc with a radius of TPL = Vpks = 42.3. The intersection of the arcs - point Pl - shoulder point of the back.
3. We build a shoulder tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades: on P1Pl we mark P1P2 = 4. From the point P2 we lay down P2P3 = (8 ÷ 9); right Р2Р4 = 1; on P3P4 we postpone P3P5 = P2P3, connect the points P5 and Pl.

1. On the line of the middle of the shelf we mark Т3В = Dpt = 42.6. From point B to the left we set aside BB1 ​​\u003d AR - 1 \u003d 5.4. From point B we put aside BB2 \u003d AR \u003d 6.4 down. We build an arc B1B2 - the line of the neck of the shelf.
2. On the line of the middle of the shelf, we mark VC \u003d Bg \u003d 24.6. From the point C to the left, we set aside CC1 \u003d Cg \u003d 9.3.
3. From point B1 we draw an arc with a radius of V1Pl1 = Shpl +1 to a lowered sleeve = 13 and an arc with a radius of Ts1Pl1 = Vpkp = 23.2. The intersection of the arcs - point Pl1 - the shoulder point of the shelf. We connect points B1 and Pl1.

1. From P1 we set aside 7 cm upwards. BY THE LECAL, you can use it, we build the line of the armhole of the back Pl-7-P4, as shown in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the line of the shoulder of the back. Point 7 is a guide, if it is not possible to draw a curved line through it without a break, then draw it next to it. We set aside 5 cm from P2 upwards. We build the line of the armhole of the shelf Pl1-5-P4, as in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the line of the shoulder of the shelf and more “curved” to the point P4 than the armhole line of the back. This is necessary for the freedom of movement of the hands in the horizontal plane. Point 5 is also a guide, if you can’t draw a curved line through it without a break, then step back.
2. Check the width of the shirt at the hips. BB3 \u003d 49. Sat \u003d 46. Thus, the increase in hip circumference will be (49-46) * 2 \u003d 6. For a basic pattern, such an increase in freedom of fitting around the hips is enough for me. If you get a lower value, then you need to add the necessary centimeters along the hip line and adjust the side lines.

The base of the shirt bodice is built (drawing 5), on its basis, you can easily model various styles and make structural and decorative elements.

In the models of many shirts, there is a button closure in the center of the shelf, let's consider its modeling.

Button fastening design:

The button fastener, as in the photo, consists of two one-piece (cut out in one piece with a shelf) strips, on one of which (for women's shirts, the left one, if the shirt is worn on a person), buttons are sewn on, and loops are punched on the other (respectively, the right one).

A pattern of a strap 3 cm wide, in this case the distance from the middle of the shelf (line of buttons) to the edge will be 1.5 cm, is constructed as follows:

1. We build an approach to the clasp: stepping back from the line of the middle of the shelf to the right 1.5 cm, we draw a parallel vertical line - this is the line of the edge of the clasp. It is very important to correctly draw the neckline so that the finished buttoned gate looks perfect. For this, the B2B4 arc must be a mirror twin of the B2B3 arc.
2. We build a hem inward: stepping back from the line of the edge of the fastener to the right 3 cm, we draw a parallel line. And here it is important to draw the line of the neck. The B4B5 arc should be the mirror twin of the B3B4 arc.
3. The bottom line of the bar is also a mirror twin of the corresponding section of the bottom line of the shelf. In this case, it is a straight line perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf.

Now you have a basic pattern for a women's sleeveless shirt in a men's style with a round neck and a button closure. How to build a shirt sleeve pattern, in the article.

Hello. I will build a pattern of a women's shirt based on a dress.

The shirt has a number of characteristic features: a free armhole, a wide sleeve, coquettes, a stand-up collar, cuffs. For me personally, a 100% wide shirt with a lowered sleeve. IN Lately these are quite rare and they give out blouses with planted sleeves, stylized as a shirt, for shirts. This is exactly the option I will do.

The shirt will be free cut, without waist darts.

My foundation

I changed the color of the lines and moved the halves apart.

• I transfer half of the raster of the shoulder tuck on the back to the armhole.

I have a tuck on the back 2 cm. I put a perpendicular (approximately) on the armhole from the base of the tuck. An incision is made and the armhole is expanded by 1 cm.

• Opened on the back - it is necessary to open on the shelf. Without hesitation, I open the armhole on the shelf also by 1 cm.

If the volume of the chest is large, you can open twice as much as on the back.

• I lengthen the shoulder line by 1 - 2 cm.
• The side seam is offset by 2 cm.
• I lower the bottom of the armhole by 2 cm.

Values ​​can, of course, vary.

• I'm drawing a new armhole.

I clean the drawing from unnecessary lines.

After modeling the armhole, I build the sleeve

You can unmodel the warp sleeve like this:

Yoke

• I close the rest of the shoulder tuck in a yoke.

I lengthen the tuck to the yoke line.

I close the drawer.

Transferring the chest tuck

I draw a new tuck line arbitrarily from the base of the tuck.

On the fabric, the tuck closes without reaching the very center of the chest, about 3 cm.

Offset shoulder line forward

The shirt is characterized by the transfer of the shoulder line forward to the shelf. I carry 2 cm.

Plank, bottom

From the middle of the shelf (in the figure below I made the middle line dotted) I set aside 1.5 cm to the fold and another 3.5 cm for the one-piece plank.

She lifted the bottom on the side to wear a shirt for release.

Finished pattern

Pattern with allowances.

According to this pattern, such a straight dress is sewn - a shirt. On a girl, it looks very free, this is because the dress is on me, and I took a picture of it on my niece. I'm a little bigger.

Hello.
In this article, we will learn how to build a shirt design.
Clothes of a shirt cut primarily differ in the parameters and configuration of the armhole. The dimensions of the shirt armhole are larger than the dimensions of the armhole of the basic design of the dress, and the configuration of the shirt armhole is more expanded and deepened. Therefore, the details of the shirt pattern - the back and the shelf also differ in their parameters and configuration.
There are two ways to build a shirt design: apply constructive modeling of a basic dress pattern, or use the developed methodology to build a shirt design. In this article, we'll look at the second option.
To build a shirt pattern, we need the following measurements:

Name of measurements and conventions	cm
Half neck (Ssh)
Bust (Cg)	40,5
Waist (St)
Half hips (Sat)	44,8
Back length to waist (Dts)
Chest Height (Hg)
Shoulder length (Dp)
Product length (Di)

(how to measure the figure correctly, you can see in the article about). The table shows my measurements as an example, so do not forget to substitute your parameters in the formulas.

In this cutting technique, we will consider two shirt silhouettes: semi-adjacent And straight. The shirt of a semi-adjacent silhouette assumes the presence of chest and tackle darts, while the product is quite free and dynamic. The shirt of a straight silhouette has no tucks, and the product itself is looser. As a result, the cut of these two silhouettes differs not only in the allowance for free fit, but also in some constructions. To build a pattern for a shirt with a straight and semi-adjacent silhouette, we will use the following allowances for a loose fit:

The increase along the chest line between the details of the structure is distributed as follows:
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper, the length of which is 5-10 cm longer than the measurement of the length of the product.

Drawing grid
Product length and width. Stepping back from the top edge of a sheet of paper 5 cm, draw a rectangle AA 1 H 1 H, where the sides AH and A 1 H 1 are equal to the measure of the length of the product, and the sides AA 1 and HH 1 are the measure of the half-girth of the chest with an increase in free fit (AH = A 1 H 1 \u003d Di \u003d 68 cm; AA 1 \u003d HH 1 \u003d Cr + CO \u003d 40.5 + 5.5 \u003d 46 cm). note, in this example I used an increase for a semi-adjacent silhouette, if you draw a straight silhouette, then do not forget to substitute the appropriate allowances for a loose fit into the formulas (see table above).

Armhole depth. From point A, down in a straight line, lay off 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the chest + CO (see the table of increments) and put the point G (segment AG \u003d 1 / 3Сg + CO \u003d 40.5: 3 + 9 \u003d 22.5 cm). From the point Г to the right we draw a horizontal straight line to the intersection with the segment A 1 H 1, we denote the intersection point Г 1.

Back Width. From the point G we set aside 1/3 of the measurements of the half-girth of the chest + CO (see the table of the distribution of the increase along the chest line) and get the point G 2 (segment GG 2 \u003d 1 / 3Сg + CO \u003d 40.5: 3 + 3 cm \u003d 16.5 cm) . From the point G 2 upwards, we construct a perpendicular to the intersection with the side AA 1, we denote the intersection point by P.

Armhole Width. From G 2 to the right, set aside 1/4 measurements of the half-girth of the chest + CO (see the table of the distribution of the increase along the chest line) and mark the point G 3 (G 2 G 3 \u003d 1 / 4Sg + CO \u003d 40.5 / 4 + 0.5 \u003d 10.6cm). From the point G 3 upwards, draw a perpendicular to the intersection with the side AA 1, and denote the intersection point P 1.

Waistline. From point A down, set aside the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and put the point T (AT \u003d Dts \u003d 40 cm). From point T we draw a horizontal straight line to the intersection with the side A 1 H 1 and denote the intersection point T 1.

hip line. From point T down, set aside half the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and put point B (TB \u003d 1 / 2Dts \u003d 40: 2 \u003d 20 cm). Draw a horizontal line from point B to the intersection with the segment A 1 H 1, mark the intersection point B 1.

side line. Divide the segment G 2 G 3 in half, denote the intersection point G 4 (G 2 G 4 \u003d G 4 G 3), and lower the perpendicular down from this point to the intersection with the bottom lines, denote the intersection point H 2, and the intersection points with the waist lines and hips - T 2 and B 2.

Auxiliary armhole points. Let's divide the segments G 2 P and G 3 P 1 into three equal parts, denote the lower division points P 2 and P 3 (see Fig.).

Back construction
Back neck cut. From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm (for all silhouettes) and get point A 2 (AA 2 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5 cm). Up from point A 2 set aside 3 cm (for all silhouettes) and mark point A 3 (A 2 A 3 \u003d 3 cm). Let's draw the neck line with a smooth line, observing a right angle at point A.

Shoulder cut back. From the point P down we set aside 3 cm (for all silhouettes) and put the point P 4 (PP 4 \u003d 3 cm). Now let's connect the points A 3 and P4, and on the resulting straight line from the point A 3 we set aside the measure of the length of the shoulder + CO (see the increase table) and put the point P 5 (A 3 P 5 \u003d Dp + CO \u003d 13 + 1.5 \u003d 14 .5cm).

Back armhole cut. We connect the points P 2 and G 4 with a dotted line and divide this segment in half, and from the division point we set aside 2 cm at a right angle and put the point P 6.

Let's make a cut of the armhole with a smooth concave line, connecting the points P 5, P 2, P 6 and G 4.

Back yoke. Down from point A, set aside 8cm and put point K (AK = 8cm). Draw a horizontal line from point K to the right until it intersects with the back armhole line, and denote the intersection point as K 1.

Down from the point K 1 along the line of the armhole, set aside 1 cm and put the point K 2 (K 1 K 2 \u003d 1 cm). Connect point K 2 with a smooth line to the coquette line.

Building a shirt shelf with a straight silhouette
Shelf neck cut. From the point G 1 upwards, set aside half the measurement of the half-girth of the chest and put the point P (G 1 P \u003d 1 / 2Sg \u003d 40.5: 2 \u003d 20.3 cm). Draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length from the point P to the left.

Now from the point P to the left and down we set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and mark the points P 1 and P 2 (PP 1 = PP 2 = 1 / 3Ssh + CO = 15: 5 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm ). We connect the points P 1 and P 2 with a dotted line, which we divide in half and from the point P through this division point we set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and get the point P 3 (PP 3 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 5 +0.5=5.5cm).
Let's make a smooth line cut the neck through the points P 1, P 3 and P 2, observing a right angle at the point P 2.

Shoulder section of the shelf. Let's build an auxiliary line by connecting the point P 1 with the upper point of dividing the segment PG 2 (see figure), on this line from the point P 1 to the left we set aside the measure of the length of the arm + CO and put the point P 7 (P 1 P 7 \u003d Dp + CO =13+2=15cm). Please note that now we are considering building a shelf for a straight silhouette shirt, so the increase in the formula corresponds to the increase for a straight silhouette.

Shelf armhole cut. Let us connect the points P 3 and G 4 with a dotted line, divide this segment in half, drop a perpendicular of 2 cm from the division point and mark the point P 8.

Let's make a cut of the armhole with a smooth line, connecting the points P 7, P 3, P 8 and G 4.

This completes the construction of the straight silhouette shirt design.

Our pattern is ready!

Building a semi-adjacent silhouette shirt shelf
Shelf neck cut. From the point G 1 upwards, set aside half the measurement of the half-girth of the chest + 0.5 cm and put the point P (G 1 P \u003d 1 / 2Sg + CO \u003d 40.5: 2 + 0.5 \u003d 20.8 cm). Draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length from the point P to the left.

Down and to the left of the point P, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and mark the points P 1 and P 2 (PP 1 = PP 2 = 1/3Ssh + CO = 15: 5 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm) . We connect the points P 1 and P 2 with a dotted line, which we divide in half and from the point P through this division point we set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and get the point P 3 (PP 3 \u003d 13 / Csh + CO \u003d 15: 5 +0.5=5.5cm). Let's make a smooth line cut the neck through the points P 1, P 3 and P 2, observing a right angle at the point P 2.

Shoulder cut and chest tuck. To the left of the point P 1 set aside 4cm and put the point B (P 1 B \u003d 4cm), down from the point B set aside 1cm, we get the point B 1 (BB ​​1 \u003d 1cm). Connect the points P 1 and B 1.

We add the lengths of the segments PP 1 and R 1 B (5.5 + 4 \u003d 9.5 cm), subtract 1 cm from this sum (9.5-1 \u003d 8.5 cm), put the resulting value to the left of the point G 1 and put the point G 5 (G 1 G 5 \u003d PP 1 + R 1 V-1 \u003d 8.5 cm). Let's connect the points G 5 and B 1, the segment G 5 B 1 is the right side of the chest tuck.

Now let's build an auxiliary line by connecting point B with the upper point of dividing the segment PG 2. Up from the point G 4 we draw a vertical straight line to the intersection with the auxiliary line, we denote the intersection point as O.

To the right of point O, we plot the length of the shoulder on the auxiliary line with an increase in free fit minus the length of the segment P 1 B and put the point B 2 (OB 2 \u003d Dp + CO-R 1 B \u003d 13 + 1.5-4 \u003d 10.5 cm) . Further, from point G 5 upward through point B 2 we draw a segment, the length of which is equal to the right side of the tuck and we get point B 3 (G 5 B 3 \u003d G 5 B 1).

Down from the point O, set aside 3 cm and put the point O 1 (OO 1 \u003d 3 cm). Let's connect the points O 1 and B 3 with a thin line.

From point B 3 to the left along a thin line, we set aside the length of the shoulder with an increase in free fit minus the length of the segment P 1 B and put the point P 7 (B 3 P 7 \u003d Dp + CO-R 1 B \u003d 13 + 1.5-4 \u003d 10 .5cm).

Shelf armhole cut. Let us connect the points P 3 and G 4 with a dotted line, divide this segment in half, drop a perpendicular of 2 cm from the division point and mark the point P 8. Let's make a cut of the armhole with a smooth line, connecting the points P 7, P 3, P 8 and G 4.

Calculation of the solution of tucks along the waistline. From the width of the product, we subtract the measure of the half-circumference of the waist with an increase in free fit (AA 1 - (St + CO) \u003d 46- (30 + 3) \u003d 13 cm), the result is the sum of the solution of all darts along the waist line, where
the size of the solution of the front tuck = 0.25 of the total solution of the darts (13 x 0.25 = 3.3 cm),
the size of the side tuck solution = 0.45 of the total solution (13 x 0.45 = 5.8 cm),
the size of the back tuck solution = 0.3 of the total solution (13 x 0.3 = 3.9 cm).

Determination of the width of the shirt along the hip line. Now, from the measurement of the half-girth of the hips with an increase in the free fit, we subtract the width of our product (Sb + CO-AA 1 \u003d 44.8 + 4-46 \u003d 2.8 cm), the result is the value of the expansion of the product along the hip line.

Side cut. From the point T 2 along the waistline to the right and left, set aside half of the solution of the side tuck (we calculated its value a little higher) and mark the points that we will connect with straight lines to the point G 4.

From point B 2 along the hip line to the right and to the left, set aside half the expansion of the product along the hip line and put points that we will connect with smooth convex lines to the solution points of the side tuck at the waist and extend these lines to the intersection with the bottom line.

Construction of a traveling tuck on the back. To the right of the point T, we set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and put the point T 3 (TT 3 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5). From the point T 3 to the right, we set aside the value of the entire back tuck solution and get the point T 4 (T 3 T 4 \u003d 3.9 cm).

We divide the segment T 3 T 4 in half, and draw a perpendicular through the division point, not bringing it to the chest line 6 cm, and to the hip line 12 cm, this perpendicular is the middle line of the tuck. Let's connect points 6 and 12 with the points of the solution of the tuck T 3 and T 4.

Clarification of the waist line and the line of the bottom of the shelf. From point T 1 we set aside 1 cm down, connect the resulting point with a notch along the waist line along the side cut, observing a right angle at the point 1 cm. Down from the point H 1, we will also set aside 1 cm and connect it with a smooth line to the point of the bottom line along the side cut, while the angle at the 1 cm point should be straight.

Building a traveling tuck on a shelf. From the value of the segment G 1 G 5 we subtract 1.5 cm, put the resulting value to the left of the point 1 cm along the new waist line and put the point T 5 (1T 5 \u003d G 1 G 5 -1.5 \u003d 8.5-1.5 \u003d 7 cm ). Connect the points T 5 and G 5.

On the new waistline to the left of the point T 5, set aside the value of the solution of the front tuck and put the point T 6 (T 5 T 6 \u003d 3.3 cm). On the line G 5 T 5 down from the point G 5 we set aside 6 cm, we connect the resulting point with T 6.

We divide the segment T 5 T 6 in half, and from the division point we lower the perpendicular, without bringing 12 cm to the waist line. Now let's connect point 12 with points T 5 and T 6.

This completes the construction of the shirt design.

If a button fastener is provided in the shirt model, then the shelf must be extended along the neck line and the bottom line by the same distance - 1.5-2 cm and draw a new cut line for the shelf. The resulting line is a half-skid line, and on the middle line there are buttons on one part of the shelf and buttonholes on the second part.
Fastener sections can be processed in several ways:
Stitched strap ,

The width of which is twice the width of the semi-skid, the length of the plank is equal to the length of the shelf along the line of the semi-skid, while the upper cut of the plank repeats the cut of the neck of the shelf along the entire width of the plank.

One-Piece Plank ,

Its configuration is completed by extending the line of the bottom of the shelf by twice the width of the half-skid, and then drawing a vertical line upwards from the resulting point. The neck line on the bar is drawn symmetrically to the neck of the shelf relative to the half-skid line. When sewing a shirt with a one-piece placket, the placket itself is folded along the half-sliding line to the wrong side of the product.

Slipper clasp

It is a secret fastener, the buttons in such a fastener are hidden and are not visible from the front side of the product. The configuration of such a fastener is completed from a one-piece strap, extending the bottom line of the product by a length equal to twice the width of the strap. As a result, three bar widths are obtained along the bottom line, a vertical straight line is drawn upwards from each width. The neck line of the fastener is drawn symmetrically with respect to the line of the first bar. Along the half-skid line of the shirt, the fastener is folded to the wrong side, along the next vertical line, the fastener is bent, and along the next vertical line, the fastener is again folded to the wrong side and the cut line of the shelf (on the fastener) is sewn from the wrong side of the product. The slip fastener is built on only one part of the shelf, on which buttonholes are located, and only a one-piece bar is built on the part with buttons.

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In this material we will talk about modeling classic women's shirts. You will learn about the features of this type of product and the options for the execution of individual components. And we offer you to sew such a universal model of an adjacent silhouette!

It is no secret that we, women, borrowed many elements of the wardrobe from men - trousers, ties, T-shirts and shirts, a jacket as a variation on the theme of a man's jacket, a coat as an interpretation of a military overcoat and much more ... Many of us wear all this with pleasure, because who value convenience and comfort!

The prototype of a women's shirt-cut blouse is a classic men's top shirt. Distinctive features of this type of clothing are:

• Symmetry of cut details
• Fastening to the top on a detachable or one-piece placket with loops and buttons
• The sleeve, as a rule, is of a shirt type - with an increased width in the upper part, and a reduced height of the eye (for tightly fitting models this is not always the case, but we will talk about this a little later)
• The bottom of the sleeve is made with a slit and processed with a cuff with 1-2 loops and buttons.
• Back with a yoke, while the shoulder seam is most often shifted towards the front
• Stand-up collar with a detachable (less often - one-piece) stand

As for the shaping of the camp and the degree of fit, options are possible here.

It can be a shirt without the use of reliefs and darts, the so-called "flat cut" - a larger or smaller volume. To model such a shirt, you will need a pattern-base of a dress without darts, which you can website according to your own measurements. And you can read more about modeling such a shirt in our material about "".

In addition, it can be a shirt that follows the contours female figure, with darts or reliefs. And here, a variant less adjacent to the body is possible,

or a more tightly fitting product:

The shirt, on the basis of which we will comprehend the wisdom of modeling this type of product today, belongs to the second type - it has both waist darts and darts on the convex chest, due to which a rather tight fit is achieved. In more detail, you can see the model features of our shirt in the following figure.

It is quite clear that appearance shirts are regulated in a rather rigid framework. However, small options in the form of designing the corners of the collar, the method of making the strap, the shape of the cuff and the technology for processing cuts for it are still possible here.

Let's begin to analyze the design of our shirt and, along the way, we will consider what other options for modeling this or that knot were possible, so that in the future you can adjust the model as you wish.

Mill Modeling

To model the shirt mill, we need pattern-basis of a dress of a semi-adjacent silhouette with an increase to the semicircle of the chest 5 cm.

You can build it yourself according to your own measurements, or get it online using this one. To do this, you will need to enter your measurements on this page. Instructions on how to remove them correctly can be found there. Your pattern will look something like the red and blue outlines in the following image.

Preparing the base pattern

Step 1 . If your pattern is longer than necessary, first of all, cut it to the desired length - this is about 20-22 cm from the waistline.

Step 2 . We will not take into account the tucks along the waist line and the side reliefs applied on the pattern - later we will distribute their solution in a slightly different way. However, we will need to write down the value of the quantity Ib , marked on the drawing - depending on the sign, it will be a surplus or a deficiency in the hips.

Step 3 . Expand the neck of the shelf and back by about 1 cm - they are shown in the drawing in green.

Step 4 . The tuck on the bulge of the chest on the shelf will be temporarily transferred to the neck.

Step 5 . We will close the tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades on the back (you can simply extend the shoulder line from the neckline by a distance equal to the total length of the shoulder on the back pattern). We will not designate the new contours of the tuck, since its solution will partially go into the relief between the details of the yoke and the back, and due to the rest, the line of the armhole of the back will slightly lengthen.

Adjustment of shoulder and armhole lines

Step 6 . We deepen the armhole by 2 cm - for this we lower the line under the armhole by 2 cm down. Denoting the width of the armhole (vertical dotted tangents in the drawing), mark its middle (red dot in the drawing).

Step 7 . Raise the shoulder line of the back by about 1.5 cm and lengthen it by 1-1.5 cm. And lower the shoulder line of the shelf by about 1.5 cm and also lengthen it by 1-1.5 cm. The extreme shoulder points are marked in red in the drawing .

Step 8 . Let's draw a new armhole line (shown in green) through the points marked in red in the drawing. Later we will remove a small section of this line to create a small relief in the area of ​​​​the shoulder blades between the details of the yoke and back.

back yoke design

Step 9 . Divide in half the line segment of the middle of the back between the neck line and the old line under the armhole (point a on the drawing).

Step 10 . From a point a draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the armhole line. This will be the bottom line of the coquette - the line connecting it with the back.

Step 11 . Divide the coquette line in half (dot b ) and set aside 1.5 cm horizontally from this point towards the armhole (point With ).

Step 12 . Set aside 0.5 cm down the armhole line from the point of its intersection with the yoke line (point d ).

Step 13 . Draw the top line of the back (the line of its connection with the yoke) through the dots a , With And d .

Bottom line styling

Step 14 . Mark the side line of the shirt - this is a vertical down from the point of the middle of the width of the armhole. On this line up from the line indicating the length of the shirt, set aside about 5 cm.

Step 15 . Draw a smooth line at the bottom of the shirt, making a rise at the side line to the point marked in the previous paragraph.

Step 16 . Now it's time to consider the magnitude Ib , which we measured and recorded in the second step of the mill simulation. There are 3 options here:

• Value Ib zero. This option is shown in the previous drawing - in this case, the bottom line is continuous.
• In case the value Ib positive surplus x And y A at the bottom.
• In the event that the value Ib negative(in the width of the pattern grid along the hip line there is flaw), it will be necessary to postpone this value evenly on both sides of the side line along the bottom line (points x And y ) and draw the bottom lines again as shown in the diagram b at the bottom.

The design of the side lines and darts along the waistline

Step 17 . Draw a vertical from the point that bisects the line under the armhole between the line of the middle of the back and the line of the armhole - relative to this vertical we will draw the contours of the back tuck.

Step 18 . The vertical, relative to which we will draw the contours of the tail tuck of the shelf, will be lowered down from the point of the center of the chest.

Step 19 . Determine the total solution of tucks along the waistline. To do this, measure the width of the mesh on the pattern and compare it with your half-waist measurement. St :

rtv = (Grid Width) – ( St + increase)

In our case, the increase along the waist line P \u003d 3 cm, and the total solution of thallium tucks will be equal to rtv \u003d 47 - (31.7 + 3) \u003d 12.3 cm.

Step 20 . Let's distribute the total solution of the tucks along the waist line as follows: 30% of the total solution will fall on the tuck of the back, 37% - on the tuck of the shelf, 13% - to the relief of the side line of the back and 20% - to the relief of the side line of the shelf. The distribution of the tuck is shown in the drawing below.

Important note : Perhaps, such a distribution of tucks may not be suitable for your figure - when most of the total solution is distributed on the shelf. You can learn about this only by experience, or you can judge by the features of the figure (for example, if the figure is kinky, with buttocks strongly protruding back). In this case, you can leave the distribution of the tucks the same as on the base pattern, only transfer the solution of the side reliefs to the new position of the side seam line.

Step 21 . Draw the contours of the tucks and side lines, as shown in the figure. In this case, the tuck on the back will end about 6 cm above the line of the bottom of the shirt, and on the shelf - on this very line.

Step 22 . Set aside the side seam of the shelves 5 cm down from the armhole line. Let's draw a line from this point to the top of the chest tuck. This will be the line along which we will cut the pattern in order to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the chest in the side seam.

Step 23 . We transfer the tuck to the bulge of the chest in the side seam and shorten it by about 2.5-3 cm.

Step 24 . The previous drawing shows a case where we did not have an excess or deficiency of the width of the mesh along the hip line.

• If flaw there is along the hip line (and we already marked it at the 16th step of modeling), the contours of the side lines will look like this, as shown in the diagram b below.
• In the event that there is surplus width along the hips, you can simply draw the contours of the side lines through the points X And at that we noted earlier. And you can do it as shown in the diagram A below: distribute part of the excess at the side line, and transfer part to the lower contour of the waist tuck on the shelf.

Clasp strap modeling

Step 25 . From the line of the middle of the front - the half-skid line, which is shown in the drawing below with a red dotted line - we set aside evenly on both sides the width of the fastener strap (about 2.5 cm) and draw through the obtained points parallel lines left and right of her. Thus, we outlined the fastener bar with a width of 2.5 centimeters.

Step 26 . Mark the position of the buttons (and, accordingly, the loops) on the half-skid line through uniform sections. There are 8 of them in this model and they are marked with crosses in the drawing.

Step 27 . Reflect the contours of the plank relative to the line of the edge of the bead.

There are two main types of fastener straps in shirts, depending on the method of their manufacture - these are stitched straps (shown in the figure A below) and one-piece (pictures b, V at the bottom):

• In case of fulfillment sewn strap (A) the shelf part will need to be cut along the line indicated by the scissors sign in the previous drawing - in this way, a plank part will be obtained, the fold line of which will be the line of the edge of the side. Allowances are added to the cuts of this part when cutting out. The diagram of its connection with the shelf is shown in the figure. A, while the connecting line is line 1, and at a distance of 1-2 mm from the line of the edge of the board, finishing line 2 is laid.
• In our model one-piece plank, that is, we will cut out the part of the shelf in its entirety together with the contours of the plank, without forgetting to add seam allowances. When performing the plank, it is bent along the line of the edge of the board to the wrong side (figure b) or on the front (figure V) side and adjust to the main part, after bending the seam allowance. Variant shown in the picture V it is possible to perform only in the case of using double-sided - the same on both sides - fabric.

It should also be noted that the part of the strap is usually glued with an adhesive lining only if the product is made of a very thin fabric, for example, chiffon.

Sleeve construction

This model has a shirt cut of the sleeve, which is characterized, first of all, by a reduced collar height. It is clear that in order to keep the length of the arm sleeve unchanged when its height decreases, it is necessary to increase some other parameter of it - and this is the width of the sleeve at the top. A strong deformation of the eyelet requires a corresponding change in the armhole - its deepening, increasing the length of the shoulder.

Such a sleeve is built with a minimum fit along the collar and is sewn into an open armhole. This means that the shoulder seams are first connected, then the sleeve is sewn into the armhole, and only then the side seams of the camp and the sleeve are connected in one step.

Below are the options for changing the parameters of the prime-sleeve:

• On the image A we see a model with a sleeve with a standard, not reduced eye height, the armhole is not deepened. In such a product, with the hands down, there are no folds on the sleeves in the upper part.
• On the image b we see a sleeve with a reduced eye height, but the armhole is slightly deepened. As a result, such a product has free folds-creases in the armhole area, when the arms are raised in a horizontal position, the folds straighten out. This is normal for a shirt-type sleeve, because it is due to this that freedom of movement is achieved.
• On the image V we see a loose shirt without darts with a sleeve in which the size of the collar is reduced to almost nothing. This is achieved by a significant lengthening of the shoulder; in fact, a design like a baby's undershirt is obtained.

For more close-fitting shirt models, the height of the eyelet will vary within 1/3 - 1/4 of the size of the armhole. We will consider the construction of just such a sleeve further.

The initial data for constructing a drawing of a shirt sleeve are:

• Armhole length DP measured on the drawing of the mill. In our case, it consists of the lengths of the following curves: the armhole of the front, the section of the armhole of the yoke of the back, and the section of the armhole of the back itself. (In my example DP = 44.2 cm)
• wrist circumference Ozap - a measure taken from the figure for which the pattern is being built. (In my example Ozap = 15.2 cm)
• Arm length DRzap - a measure taken from the figure for which the pattern is being built. Measured from the shoulder point to the girth line of the wrist. (In my example DRzap = 57.8 cm)

Step 1 . mark a point t0 and from it down vertically set aside a distance equal to DRzap minus the cuff width plus 1.5 cm. The cuff width in our model will be equal to Shmanzh = 5.5 cm. Mark a point t1 . An increase of 1.5 cm is necessary so that the sleeve does not sit tight.

So, in our example: /t0;t1/ = DRzap – Shmanzh + 1.5 cm = 57.8 - 5.5 + 1.5 = 53.8 cm.

Step 2 . On the segment /t0;t1/ from the point t0 down, set aside a distance equal to the height of the eye of the sleeve THIEF and mark with a dot t2 . The sleeve height in this model will be equal to a quarter of the armhole length plus an increase:

/t1;t2/ = THIEF = DP /4 + P

The increase for a chest half-girth up to 42 cm inclusive will be 1 cm, for a chest half-girth from 42 to 44 cm - 2 cm, up to 46 cm - 3 cm, up to 50 cm - 4 cm and so on. So, for our example, the sleeve height will be equal to THIEF \u003d 44.2 / 4 + 1 cm \u003d 12 cm.

Step 3 . Through the dot t2 draw a horizontal line. From a point t0 set aside to this horizontal distance equal to half the length of the armhole and mark the points t3 And t4 . Line segment between points t3 And t4 called sleeve width at the top.

In our example: /t0;t3/ = /t0;t4/ = DP /2 = 44.2/2 = 22.1 cm.

Step 4 . Divide the segments /t0;t3/ and /t0;t4/ into 4 sections each. At the points obtained, lay off the segments along the perpendiculars to the lines /t0;t3/ and /t0;t4/ (up or down from them) in accordance with the drawing below. Through the points obtained, draw the line of the sleeves.

Step 5 . from point t2 set aside horizontally to the left and right along half the girth of the wrist, plus an increase. Mark these places t5 And t6 . In our model, we will take an increase in the girth of the wrist of 6 cm, so the value of the segments in our example will be equal to:

/t1;t5/ = /t1;t6/ = 1/2 ( Ozap + P) \u003d (15.2 + 6) / 2 \u003d 10.6 cm.

Step 6 . Draw the side lines of the sleeve between the points t3 And t5 , and t4 And t6 slightly curved lines.

Step 7 . Draw a cuff sewing line between the points t5 And t6 , bending it slightly (by about 0.7 cm) at the point t1 .

Step 8 . Divide the section of the cuff sewing line, located on the half of the sleeve facing the back, in half. Set aside 10-15 cm from the obtained point up perpendicular to the stitching line - this will be the cut line of the sleeve. From the beginning of the cut, the stitching of the cuff begins and ends, the construction of the drawing of which we will consider further.

cuff construction

The cuffs may have variations in their width and the design of the corners. With a cuff width of 8 cm or more, two loops (and, accordingly, buttons) are made on it. The cuff should fit fairly snugly, but there should still be enough space between the arm and the cuff. Approximately enough so that at least a couple of fingers can be inserted under the cuff when buttoned up.

The figure above shows different types cuff:

• Cuffs with right angle (drawing b) are cut out in one piece with a fold
• For each cuff rounded (drawings V,G) or truncated angle (Figure A) you will need to cut out two parts

The incision under the cuff can also be designed in different ways:

• Cut, processed plank (drawings A, b)
• In the case of a two-seam sleeve, processing is possible slit in the seam of the sleeve
• Cut, processed by edging type (drawing G). You can find more information about this processing method in the material on the sewing technology of the shirt in question.

So, the construction of a cuff drawing includes the following steps:

Step 1 . Measure the cuff sewing line on the sleeve drawing. Construct a rectangle with a length equal to the length of the cuff sewing line on the sleeve plus 2 cm. The width of the rectangle is equal to the width of the cuff - in our case it is 5.5 cm.

Step 2 . Finish the outer edge of the cuff with rounded corners. To do this, mark points at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm vertically and horizontally from the upper corners of the rectangle. Through these points, fill out the rounding of the corners of the cuff.

Step 3 . Mark the lines of skidding of the sides of the cuff on top of each other when fastening. In the drawing, they are shown by dotted lines located at a distance of 1 cm from both edges of the cuff. At the midpoints of these segments, mark the position of the button and the corresponding buttonhole. On the left cuff, the button will be on the right side, and on the right - on the left side.

Collar construction

The collar in a shirt can be of two types:

• Stand-up with one-piece rack(drawing A), the construction of which we have already discussed in the article on modeling
• Stand-up with cutting stand(drawings b-d), this is the collar of our shirt model and we will consider it today

The height of the stand can vary in the collar (in the figure b shows a high rack, on V, G- racks of medium height). The higher the collar stand, the tighter it should fit around the neck. Collars with low stands and stands of medium size may lag behind the neck in a larger one (figure G), or to a lesser extent (figure V) degrees.

The degree of fit of the collar to the neck depends on the curvature of the lines of the stand. A straighter line of the stand will cause the collar to lag behind the neck, and a more concave line will ensure the collar fits snugly to the neck.

The option of a stand-up collar with a detachable stand has already been considered by us in the lesson on modeling a shirt dress, you can see it at.

The collar, the construction of which we will consider, is shown in the figure. V. Let's start by building a rack.

Rack building:

Step 1 . The basis for the construction is a rectangle with a length equal to the length of the neck, measured in the drawing, and a width equal to the height of the rack.

• Neck length Dgor will consist of the length of the neck of the back and the length of the neck of the shelf on the drawing . That is, in fact, this is half the length of the neck of the finished product.
• Rack Height in the classical version can be taken equal to Sun \u003d 3 - 3.5 cm. Or you can roughly calculate it using the formula Sun = Height/50. So, for a height of 170 cm, as in our example, the height of the rack will be 3.4 cm.

Step 2 . Mark a point on the long side of the rectangle a , which bisects it. And on a short one - mark the point b , which divides the side in a ratio of 4 to 3 (as an option, you can mark the middle of the segment, and then lower this point 0.5 cm down).

Step 3 . through dots a And b we will build a line for stitching a rack into the neck. To do this, through the points a And b draw a smooth line and extend it for such a distance to the point c so that the stand stitching line (shown in dark blue in the drawing) is equal in length to the length of the neck Dgor plus half the width of the strap of the clasp.

Step 4 . Through the dot With let's draw a perpendicular to the stitching line of the stand. On this perpendicular, we set aside the height of the rack and draw through the points d And f a smooth line, similar to the stitching line of the stand.

Step 5 . Line segment cd divide in proportion 2 to 1, and from the point d to the left, you need to set aside at least half the width of the fastener bar (plus 0.1 - 0.3 cm), in this place we put a dot e . Through the received points from the point With to the point e let's draw a smooth ledge line of the rack.

Distance between points d And e can vary from half to the full width of the strap of the clasp. In the first case, the collar will look like in the picture V with the image of collars above and a photo of a white collar below, and in the second - as in the picture G and a photo of the black collar below.

​

Step 6 . Let's outline the line of the middle of the fastener - this is a segment that runs parallel to the segment cd at a distance of half the width of the strap of the fastener (shown in the drawing by a dotted line). In the middle of this segment, mark the position of the button (and, accordingly, the loop) with a cross.

Thus, the construction of the collar stand is completed! Line fe is the line for stitching the collar into the rack. Let's proceed to the construction of the collar itself.

Building the actual collar

Step 7 . Draw from a point e horizontal (shown in the drawing by a dotted line) and reflect the line of stitching the collar into the rack relative to it fe – received line f1 e .

Step 8 . from point f1 up we set aside the width of the departure of the collar, mark the point g . In the classic version, it is usually 5 - 6 cm. In our model, we will take the departure width 2 cm more than the height of the rack: Sho = Sun + 2 cm = 3.4 + 2 = 5.4 cm.

Step 9 . At the intersection of the horizontal from the point g and vertical from point e mark the point e1 . Set aside from it to the right horizontally about 1 cm and mark the point g1 .

Step 10 . Let's draw the lines of the end and departure of the collar. In the general case, this is done arbitrarily, based on the features of the model - the corner may be more pointed or completely rounded, the ends of the collar may be longer, etc. In our model, we will draw the collar lines as follows: connect the dots e And g1 and along this line from the point e set aside a distance equal to the departure width plus 1 cm. We mark a point in this place h . Connect the dots g And h concave smooth (almost straight) line - the collar fly-off line is obtained.