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How to build a basic pattern base. Construction of a drawing of the main pattern of a women's dress

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Hello dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes of complex styles, you will already need a pattern - paper template, along which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, then I will advise the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, building a pattern will help you quickly understand and master the principles of designing clothes. In addition, the pattern is built according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on the figure, ready-made patterns such a result is not guaranteed, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And finally, building a pattern is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress according to the method of Tatyana Roslyakova.
In the last article, we learned that we need to sew a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the drawing of structures is carried out only on half of the figure, therefore, measurements of volumes and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I wrote my measurements as an example. By these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.

Name of measurements and conventions

cm

Half neck (Ssh)

Bust (Cg)

40,5

Waist (St)

Half hips (Sat)

44.5

Back length to waist (Dts)

Back Width (W)

16,5

Front length to waist (dtp)

Chest Height (Hg)

Center of the chest (Cg)

Shoulder length (Dp)

Product length (Di)

In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for free fit (CO). These additions are added to almost all measurements in the design drawing, they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for free fitting differs in size. Increases for clothing styles (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.) also differ, moreover, for different types fabrics, there are separate increases. Different methods for constructing patterns indicate different increments for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increments indicated in the methodology. But for now, we are learning to build the base of the dress, so I offer you two silhouettes: adjacent and semi-adjacent with the following additions:

Please note that the increments indicated in the table are added in full to the half measure. That is, if the measurement of chest circumference is 81 cm, then the semi-circumference of the chest = 40.5 cm, for an adjacent silhouette, an increase in free fit of 3 cm is added to 40.5 cm, which means that the future product along the chest line will be 6 cm more. In addition, the increase along the chest line is distributed among the details of the pattern in the following ratio:
back width - 30%
shelf width - 20%
armhole width - 50%.

distribution of gain along the chest line

I will indicate all the allowances for free fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when constructing a pattern. In this article, we will build a dress with an adjacent silhouette.
Let's start drawing . It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm longer than the length of the future dress. If you have never built patterns before, then I advise you to do all the drawings on millimeter paper in a roll, it can be purchased at an office supply store. Drawing on such paper is a pleasure! Drawings are accurate and even. Dress length . In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with a vertex at point P, stepping back from the top edge of 5 cm. From the point P down in a straight line, set aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put the point H (segment PH \u003d Di \u003d 85 cm).

Dress Width. From the point P to the right, set aside the half-girth of the chest + 3 cm (increase in free fit), and put the point P 1 (segment PP 1 \u003d Cr + CO \u003d 40.5 + 3 \u003d 43.5 cm). From point H to the right, set aside a segment equal to PP 1 and put a point H 1 (segment HH 1 = PP 1 = 43.5 cm). Connect the points P 1 and H 1

Waistline . From the point P down, we set aside the measurement of the length of the back to the waist + 0.5 cm and set the point T (RT = Dts + CO = 40 + 0.5 = 40.5 cm). Draw a straight line from the point T to the right until it intersects with the line P 1 H 1 and denote the intersection point as T 1 .

hip line . From point T downwards, set aside 1/2 measurements of the length of the back to the waist and put point B (TB \u003d 1 / 2Dts \u003d 40: 2 \u003d 20 cm). Draw a straight line from point B to the right until it intersects with the line P 1 H 1, and denote the intersection point B 1.

Back Width . From the point P to the right, set aside the width of the back + 0.9 cm and put the point P 2 (PP 2 \u003d Shs + CO \u003d 16.5 + 0.9 \u003d 17.4 cm). Draw a straight line of arbitrary length from this point

Armhole Width . From the point P 2 we set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 1.5 cm and put the point P 3 (P 2 P 3 \u003d 1 / 4 Cr + CO \u003d 40.5: 4 + 1.5 \u003d 11.6 cm). Attention! The segment R 2 R 3 is the width of the armhole, therefore, the resulting value of this segment must be distinguished for yourself, in the future we will use this value. Draw a straight line of arbitrary length down from the point P 3.

Back neck cut . From point P to the right, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and put the point P 4 (PP 4 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5 cm). From the point P 4 upwards, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck + 0.8 cm and put P 5 (P 4 P 5 \u003d 1 / 10Ssh + CO \u003d 15:10 + 0.8 \u003d 2.3 cm). Divide the angle with the top P 4 in half and draw a straight line, on this straight line we set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck - 0.3 cm and put a point P 6 (P 4 P 6 \u003d 1/10Ssh-CO \u003d 15: 10-0.3 \u003d 1 ,2cm). Connect the points P, P 6 and P 5 with a smooth line, while the angle at the point P must be straight.

Shoulder cut back . From P 2 we set aside 2.5 cm down for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping, 1.5 cm for high and put a point P. Connect the points P 5 and P, and on this line we set aside from P 5 the length of the shoulder + 2 cm to the tuck and put P 1 (P 5 P 1 \u003d Dp + 2cm \u003d 13 + 2 \u003d 15cm). Again, on this line from the point P 5, set aside 4cm and put the point O (P 5 O \u003d 4cm). Down from the point O, set aside 8 cm and put the point O 1 (OO 1 \u003d 8 cm). Set aside 2 cm to the right of the point O and put the point O 2 (OO 2 \u003d 2 cm). Let's connect the points O 1 and O 2, on the straight line obtained from the point O 1 we set aside 8 cm and put the point O 3 (O 1 O 3 \u003d 8 cm). Now let's connect the points O 3 and P 1.

Armhole depth . From P down we set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest plus 7 cm (for stooped figures plus 7.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5 cm) and put the point G (PG = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 7.5 = 17.6cm). Draw a line through the point Г to the intersection with the straight line РН, denoting the intersection point G 1, to the line P 1 H 1, denoting the intersection point Г 3, and the point of intersection with the straight line from the point Р 3 denote G 2.

Back armhole cut . From G upwards, set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2cm and put P 2 (GP 2 \u003d 1 / 3PG + CO \u003d 17.6: 3 + 2 \u003d 7.8 cm). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 1.5 cm and put the point P 3 (GP 3 \u003d 1 / 10 Shpr + CO \u003d 11.6: 10 + 1.5 \u003d 2.6 cm) we divide the GG 2 line in half and put G 4. Points P 1, P 2, P 3 and G 4 will be connected by a smooth line.

Shelf armhole cut . From G 2 upwards, set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 5 cm (for stooped figures + 4.5 cm, for kinky figures + 5.5 cm) and put P 4 (G 2 P 4 \u003d 1 / 4Сg + CO \u003d 40.5: 4 + 4.5=14.6cm). From P 4 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the chest half-girth and put P 5 (P 4 P 5 \u003d 1 / 10Sg \u003d 40.5: 10 \u003d 4 cm). From G 2 upwards, set aside 1/3 of the segment G 2 P 4 and put P 6 (G 2 P 6 \u003d 1 / 3G 2 P 4 \u003d 14.6: 3 \u003d 4.8 cm). We connect the points P 5 and P 6 with a dotted line and divide it in half, from the division point to the right at a right angle we set aside 1 cm. Divide the angle at point G 2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 0.8 cm and mark the point P 7 (G 2 P 7 \u003d 1 / 10 Shpr + CO \u003d 11.6: 10 + 0.8 \u003d 1.9) . Let's connect with a smooth line the points P 5, 1, P 6, P 7, and G 4.

Shelf neck cut . From G 3 upwards, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the chest + 1.5 cm (for stooped figures + 1 cm, for kinky figures + 2 cm) and put R 7 (G 3 R 7 \u003d 1 / 2 Cr + CO \u003d 40.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 40.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 21.2cm). From G 2 we set aside the same value upwards and put a point P 8 (G 2 R 8 \u003d G 3 R 7 \u003d 21.2 cm). Let's connect the points P 7 and P 8. Now, from the point P 7 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and put P 9 (P 7 P 9 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5 cm). Down from the point P 7, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 2 cm and put the point P 10 (P 7 P 10 -1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 2 \u003d 7 cm). We connect the points P 9 and P 10, and divide the resulting segment in half. From the point P 7 we draw a straight line through the division point of the segment P 9 P 10, and on this line we set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 1cm and put the point P 11 (P 7 P 11 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 1 \u003d 6 cm). Connect the points P 9, P 11, P 10 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at the point P 10.

Shoulder section of the shelf and the line of the chest tuck . From G 3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest and put G 6 (G 3 G 6 \u003d Tsg \u003d 9cm). From G 6 we draw a line up to the intersection with the line R 7 R 8, we denote the intersection point as R 12. From P 12 down, we set aside the measurement of the height of the chest and put a point G 7 (P 12 G 7 \u003d Vg \u003d 25 cm). From the point P 12 down, set aside 1 cm and put P 13 (P 12 P 13 \u003d 1 cm). We connect points P 9 and P 13. And we will connect the points P 13 and P 5 with a dotted line. On this line from point P5 to the right, set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment R 9 R 13 and minus 0.3 cm, put the point R 14 (P 5 R 14 \u003d Dp-R 9 R 13 -0.3 \u003d 13-3-0, 3=9cm). From the point G 7 through the point P 14 we draw a segment equal to the segment G 7 R 13 and put the point P 15 (G 7 R 15 \u003d G 7 R 13). We connect points P 5 and P 15.

Side seam line . From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and put a point G 5 (GG 5 \u003d 1 / 3Shpr \u003d 11.6: 3 \u003d 3.8 cm). Draw a vertical line through the point Г 5. At the intersection with the armhole line, we put point B, at the intersections with the waist, hips and bottom lines, we put points T 2, B 2, H 2.

Determining the solution of tucks along the waist line . We add 1 cm to the measure of the half-circumference of the waist (St + CO = 29 + 1 = 30 cm), subtract this value from the width of the dress along the line TT 1 (43.5-30 = 13.5 cm). Thus, we calculated the total amount of tuck solutions along the waist line, i.e. 13.5cm.
  • the size of the solution of the front tuck \u003d 0.25 of the total solution of the tucks (13.5 x 0.25 \u003d 3.4 cm),
  • the size of the side tuck solution = 0.45 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
  • the size of the back tuck solution = 0.3 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.3 \u003d 4.1 cm)
Determining the width of the dress along the hip line . We add 1 cm to the semi-girth of the hips (Sb + CO = 44.5 + 1 = 45.5 cm). From the obtained value, subtract the width of the dress along the line BB 1 (45.5-43.5 \u003d 2 cm). We will distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (1 cm each). Side tuck . From B 2 to the left and right, set aside the resulting difference (in my example, 1cm) and put points B 3 and B 4. From T 2 to the left and to the right, set aside half the solution of the side tuck (6: 2 \u003d 3 cm) and put T 3 and T 4. We connect point B with points T 3 and T 4. We will connect the points T 3, B 4 and T 4, B 3 with a dotted line, divide these segments in half, from the division points to the side we set aside 0.5 cm each and connect now we will draw a side cut with smooth lines through the points T 3, 0.5 and B 3 and through the points T 4 , 0.5, B 4 . Shelf waist line . From the point P 7 down, we set aside the measurement of the length of the front to the waist + 0.5 cm and put T 5 (P 7 T 5 \u003d Dtp + CO \u003d 42 + 0.5 \u003d 42.5 cm). We will connect points T 4 and T 5 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at point T 5.

Shelf hip line . From B 1 down, set aside the value of the segment T 1 T 5 and put B 5 (B 1 B 5 \u003d T 1 T 5. We connect points B 3 and B 5 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at point B 5 Shelf tuck . Draw a straight line from G 6 down to the intersection with the line BB 1. Intersections with the lines of the waist and hips will be denoted by points T 9 and B 7. From T 9 to the left and right, set aside half the solution of the front tuck (3.4: 2 \u003d 1.7 cm) and put T 10 and T 11. From G 7 down, and from B 7 up we set aside 4 cm, put points and connect them with T 10 and T 11.

Back tuck . Let's divide the segment ГГ 1 in half, and denote the division point Г 8. From G 8 we lower the line down to the intersection with the line BB 1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line, we put points T 6 and B 6. From T 6 to the left and right, set aside half of the back tuck solution (4.1: 2 \u003d 2 cm) and put T 7 and T 8. Set aside 1 cm from G 8 down, set aside 3 cm from B 6 up. We connect these points with T 7 and T 8

Shelf bottom line . From B 3 and B 4 we will draw lines down to the intersection with the straight line HH 1 and denote the points H 3 and H 4. From H1 down, set aside the value of the segment T 1 T 5 and put a point H 5 (H 1 H 5 \u003d T 1 T 5). We will connect points H 3 and H 5 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at the point H 5.


shelf - the front of the product

Neck - neckline

Armhole - cutout for sleeves (cut from the shoulder to the side seams to connect the sleeves with the bodice)

tuck - excess fabric taken into the seam. With the help of darts, the necessary forms are given to the product.
In addition to the dress, you can build.

Information prepared based on the materials of the author Valentina Nivina Internet resource

The construction of a base pattern is an important stage in the creation of clothes; it is on its basis that the product is modeled (making it unique). There are various cutting systems and different methods building basic patterns, professionals when creating clothes can use several of them.

In this article, I SHARE MY EXPERIENCE in constructing a pattern for the base of a dress with a straight silhouette on a conditionally standard figure according to the cut system “M. Muller and Son”, this system has stood the test of time and is still popular.

The construction of a dress pattern with a straight silhouette is relatively simple, because. due to the absence of traveling tucks, its construction requires less calculations compared to dress patterns of adjacent silhouettes.

(P, cm),

straight silhouette (with sleeves):

To the height of the armhole at the back (Vpr.z) + 2÷3;

To the width of the back (Ws) + 1.5÷2;

To the width of the armhole (Wpr) + 2.5÷3.5;

To chest width (Wg) + 1.5÷2

(cm), removed from the human figure:

- Chest girth (Og) = 85,

- Waist circumference (From) = 62,

- Hip circumference (Ob) \u003d 95,

- Length of the back to the waist (Dts) = 44,

- Product length (Di) = 100,

- Chest height I (BgI) = 34,

– Waist length in front I (ДтпI) = 56

Estimated measurements (cm),

with Og more than 80 cm:

- Armhole height at the back (Vpr.z) * \u003d Og / 10 + 10.5 \u003d 85/10 + 10.5 \u003d 19,

Vpr.z + P = 19 + 2÷3 = 19 + 2 = 21;

- Hip height (Wb) \u003d Vpr.z + Dts \u003d 19 + 44 \u003d 63;

- Neck width at the back (Wsh.z) \u003d Og / 20 + 2 \u003d 85/20 + 2 \u003d 6.3;

- Breast height II (ВгII) = ВгI - Шш.з = 34 - 6.3 = 27.7;

- Waist length in front II (DtpII) \u003d DtpI - Shsh.z \u003d 56 - 6.3 \u003d 49.7;

- Back width (Ws) * \u003d Og / 8 +5.5 \u003d 85/8 +5.5 \u003d 16, 125,

Shs + P \u003d 16.125 + 1.5 ÷ 2 \u003d 18;

- Armhole width (Wpr) * \u003d Og / 8 - 1.5 \u003d 85/8 - 1.5 \u003d 9.125,

Shpr + P \u003d 9.125 + 2.5 ÷ 3.5 \u003d 12;

- Chest width (Whg) * \u003d Og / 4 - 4 \u003d 85/4 - 4 \u003d 17.25,

Shg + P \u003d 17.25 + 1.5 ÷ 2 \u003d 19

*measurements that are taken during construction with allowances for freedom of fit (P)

CONTROL:[(Vpr.z+P) + (Shs+P) + (Spr+P) + (Sg+P)] should be equal to [Og/2+P] = [Og/2 + 5÷7.5]

Building a drawing of a basic pattern of a dress with a straight silhouette:

Prepare a rectangle of tracing paper, width Og / 2 + 30cm, length Di + 15cm.

  1. Base grid. In the upper right corner, stepping back from the top 10 cm, and from the edge 5 cm, put a point O. Draw a vertical line down.

From point O down the line, set aside OG \u003d Vpr.z + P \u003d 21cm; OT=Dts=44cm; OB=Wb=63cm; OH=Di=100cm.

From the points obtained, build horizontal lines to the left: O - top line, G - chest line, T - waist line, B - hip line, H - bottom line.

  1. Back center line. Set aside 2 cm from point B to the left, mark point B1. From point through point B1, draw a straight line to the bottom line. Mark its intersection with horizontal lines with dots, as in the drawing.

chest line. From the point G1 to the left, set aside G1G2 \u003d Ws + P \u003d 18cm; then alternately put aside to the left: G2G3 \u003d 2/3 * (Shpr + P) \u003d 8cm; Г3Г4=10÷13cm; G4G5=1/3*(Spr+P)=4cm; G5G6=Wg+P=19cm.

CONTROL: G6G4 + G3G1 \u003d (Og / 2 + P) \u003d 49 cm.

The line of the middle of the shelf. From the marked points, build verticals, as in the drawing. The vertical passing through the point G6 is the line of the middle of the shelf.

At the intersection of lines built from points O and G2, mark point O1.

  1. Back neckline. From point O to the left, set aside OO2 = Shsh.z = 6.3 cm. With a large value of Og OO2, you should take = Shsh.z-0.5cm. From the point O2 upwards, build a perpendicular 2 cm long, mark the point O3. Connect points O and O3 along the pattern with a smooth line.

Back shoulder line. From point O1 down, set aside O1O4 = 1 ÷ 1.5 cm. Draw a straight line from point O3 through point O4. From the point O4 to the left along the line, set aside O4O5 \u003d 1.5 ÷ 2 cm (with a small size); 0÷1cm (with big size); 1 ÷ 1.5 cm (with an average size).

  1. Back opening. Divide the segment G2O4 in half, mark the point P1, draw a horizontal line through P1 (line of the shoulder blades), set aside P1P1 '= 1cm to the left. Divide the segment P1G2 in half, mark the point P2. Construct a perpendicular to the left, mark point P4 at its intersection with the vertical from point G5, set aside P2P3 = 1.3 ÷ 1.5 cm to the left of P2 (the smaller the size, the smaller the value). From point O5 through P1'P3 to point G3, build an armhole line, smooth along the pattern, so that its beginning is perpendicular to the shoulder line.

  1. On the waistline, mark the points T1 and T2, as shown in the drawing. On the chest line, from the point G6 to the right, we postpone G6G7 \u003d Og / 10 + 0.5 \u003d 9 cm. We draw a vertical line, at its intersection with the waist line, mark the point T4. On the vertical from the point T4 upwards we set aside T4O7 \u003d DshpII \u003d 49.7 cm. From the point O7 vertically down, we lay aside O7G8 \u003d VgII \u003d 27.7 cm.

From the point G5 vertically upwards we set aside G5O6 \u003d G2O4-(1 ÷ 1.5) (we look at the figure, the greater the slope of the shoulder line, the greater the value must be subtracted).

  1. From points G8 and G5, through points O7 and O6 we draw arcs with radii G8O7 and G5O6, respectively.

From the point O6 along the arc to the right, we set aside O6O8 \u003d Og / 20- (0.5 ÷ 1) \u003d 3.25 cm. From the point O8 we draw an arc with a radius = O3O5-1 = 14 cm, where 1 cm is climbed for landing, this is the difference between the lengths of the back and front shoulder lines. At the intersection of the arcs, mark the point O9.

Armhole shelves. We connect the points O8 and P4 with a straight line, divide the segment in half, mark the point P5. From the point P5 to the left we build a perpendicular with a length = 1 cm, mark the point P6. From point O8 to point G4 through P6 and P4 we draw a smooth line along the pattern, do not forget that it starts perpendicular to the line of the shoulder.

  1. Shelf neck. From the point O7 we build a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf, mark the point O10. From the point O10 along the perpendicular to the right, we set aside O10O11 \u003d Shsh.z \u003d 6.3. At large values ​​of Og, O10O11 = Wsh.z-0.5. From the point O10 vertically down, we set aside O10O12 = Shsh.z + 1 ÷ 2 = 7.5 cm. We connect the points O10 and G5 with a straight line, mark O10O13 \u003d Shsh.z + 0.5 ÷ 0.8 cm. Through the points O12O13O11 we draw a smooth line along the pattern.


  1. Shoulder shelf and tuck. From the point O9 we set aside O9O14 \u003d O11O7 \u003d 3cm. We connect O14 and G8 - this is the right side of the tuck. From the point G8 vertically upwards, we postpone G8O15 \u003d G8O14. We connect O11 and O15 with a straight line.

  1. Place of tuck on the back. From the point O3 along the line of the back shoulder to the left, we set aside O3O16 = 3 ÷ 5cm. We draw a perpendicular to the horizontal of the shoulder blades, mark point L at the intersection. With the bulge of the shoulder blades and stoop, the dotted lines are cut and moved apart, as a result of which a tuck is formed, the back lengthens. I don't cut because my pattern is for a figure with a flat back.

  1. Control signs for stitching sleeves. On the back, Kc coincides with point P3. On the shelf from the point G5 vertically upwards, lay G5Kp = (Spr + P) / 4 = 3 cm.

Side lines. Along the waistline from the point T2 to the left we set aside T2T5=1÷2cm, from the point T3 to the right we set aside T3T6=0.5÷1cm. From points G4 and G3 we draw straight lines through points T6 and T5 to the bottom line. At the intersection with the line of the hips, we mark points B2 and B3. The intersection of the line of the hips with the middle line of the shelf - point B4.

CONTROL:(B4B3+B2B1) should be more (R/2+3cm). Otherwise, you need to increase the expansion of the front and back along the side lines.

  1. Bottom line. From point H1 we build a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the back, its intersection with the line of the side of the back is denoted by point H2, from point H2 we draw a horizontal line to the left until it intersects with the side line of the shelf, we mark point H3. We build the line of the bottom of the shelf: a curved smooth line passing from point H3 to a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf.

Offset shoulder line. We raise the line of the back shoulder in parallel by 1 cm. We lower the line of the shoulder of the shelf in parallel by 1 cm.

This is how the pattern looks like the basis of a dress with a straight silhouette, built according to the cut system “M. Muller and Son”.

To check its fit on the figure, it is necessary to transfer the pattern to plain fabric, sew and try on, more about this in the article.

Hello my dear! Now an endless world of dress models will open before you, because when you make your own perfect base pattern, shot according to your measurements - you can build absolutely any dress that your fantasy tells you. And you will have to work a little only once - now.

So don't be scared a large number of letters and numbers on the drawing, actually make a base pattern will be a feasible task for you, because I will tell you about it in simple terms.

What will the building consist of?

We will draw half of the back and half of the front of the dress.

But first we need to decide what silhouette of the dress we want. Silhouettes are:

  • tight fitting
  • Adjoined
  • semi-adjacent
  • Straight

For example, I will build a pattern for you in size 46.

Dress length=85cm

For a snug fit, I'll take the following raises:

I wrote more about supplements above.

Don't let this drawing scare you, we will make it in parts and in four stages:

  • let's build a grid
  • upper back
  • top front
  • bottom of the dress from the waist with darts

Building a GRID

For your drawing, take better graph paper. She's the most comfortable. Instead of my initial data, substitute in the calculations their measurements taken , and it will be VERY EASY for you to build a drawing this way.

Set point A.

  1. AH down = hem line level = product length = 85 cm
  2. AT down \u003d waist line level \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 42.9 + 1 \u003d 43.9
  3. AG down \u003d armhole line level \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 21.3 + 2.5 \u003d 23.8
  4. TB down = hip line level = Dlb = 20 (this is the standard)

For a better fit in the back area and for vertical side seams, you need to make a withdrawal of the middle line of the back, for this we draw a horizontal line from the T point. On it we postpone TT "to the right = 1.5 cm (this is the standard). Draw a straight line through point T and point A. Now all calculations will be made from points G, T. Mark them on your drawing.

We draw horizontal lines from all points.

Now we determine the width of the grid = Г»Г1 = Сг3 + Пг = 46 + 3 = 49

We make a kind of frame for the drawing (grid). On the right side we put points A1, G1, T1, B1, H1.

We set aside the back width \u003d Г»Г2 to the right \u003d Ws + 0.2 × Pg \u003d 17.7 + 0.2 × 3 \u003d 18.3

Set aside the width of the front \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg + 0.5 (Cr2-Cr1) \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 + 0.5 (48.2-44.2) \u003d 19.1

We check the width of the armhole on the drawing:

  • armhole width G2G3 \u003d W mesh - W back - W front \u003d 49 - 18.3 - 19.1 \u003d 11.6

Divide G2G3 in half = position of the side seam = draw a vertical down from the point G4.

Back construction

  1. AU Down = level of the bottom of the shoulder blades \u003d 0.4 × Dts \u003d 0.4 × 42.9 \u003d 17.2 We set aside from point A down and at a right angle to the outlet.
  2. AA2 right = back neck width \u003d 1/3 Ssh + Pshgs \u003d 18.3 / 3 + 1 \u003d 7.1
  3. A2A21 down = back neck depth \u003d 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs \u003d 7.1 / 3 + 0.2 \u003d 2.6

Shoulder slope: is found using two radii (R):

  • R1 \u003d A2P1 \u003d Shp + shoulder tuck (1.5 cm - standard) + shoulder extension \u003d 13.2 + 1.5 + 0.5 \u003d 15.2 (we put the compass at point A2 and make an arc at a distance of 15.2, as in the figure below)


  • (R2) \u003d T "P1 \u003d Vpks + Pdts \u003d 42.9 +1 \u003d 43.9 (we put the compass at point T "and set aside an arc of 43.9 cm; the point of intersection of two arcs is P1)


We are building shoulder tuck on the slope of the shoulder:

from point A2 to the right we set aside 4 cm (this is a constant value). We draw a vertical from it down - this is left-hand side darts. Set aside from point 4 to the right along the shoulder line 1.5 cm (undercut). And draw the right side of the tuck, equalize both sides of the tuck.


If you sew the tuck as a tuck without modeling, then the length of the tuck is 10-12 cm. If the tuck is transferred to the side of the chest, we make the tuck to the line of the shoulder blades. (marked in blue in the figure)

Now to build sleeve entry lines , additional points are needed:

  • from point P1 we draw a perpendicular to the line of the width of the back. We put a cross.
  • We divide the distance from this cross to the chest line into 3 equal parts. We add 2 cm to the bottom 1/3 (this is a constant value) - this is the P3 point.
  • Bisector from point Г2 = 0.2×Г2Г3 + 0.5 = 0.2×11.6 + 0.5 = 2.8

We draw a line of entry into the sleeve under the pattern.

Building the front

To begin with, we make a decrease along the waistline:

  • 0.5 cm for size 40-42
  • 0.7 -1 cm for size 44-48
  • 1.2-2 for 50-56 size
  • over 2 - over size 56

We take a decrease of 1 cm.

  • T1 T11 down we postpone this decrease of 1 cm
  • Now we do the same decrease along the bottom line: H1H11 down 1 cm.
  • T11 A11 up \u003d position of the upper point of the neck of the front \u003d Dtp \u003d Pdtp \u003d 44.1 + 1.3 \u003d 45.4

In order for the dress to fit well in the chest area (not puffed up) - you need to make a fit (semi-skid).

  • A11 A12 left 1cm (standard). Connect point A12 with G1.

  • A12 A3 left = front neck width = AA2 (calculated from backrest drawing) = 7.1
  • A12 A4 Down = Front Throat Depth = A12A3 + 1 (Constant) = 7.1 + 1 = 8.1


Building BREAST DRAW .

  • D1D5 left = position of the center line of the chest = Cg + 0.5 (constant value) = 9.9 +0.5 = 10.4

Through the point G5 we draw a vertical with a dotted line.

  • Radius A3G6 to the center line of the chest = Br + 0.5 × Pdtp = 26.2 + 0.5 × 1.3 = 26.9. We connect A3 and G6 with a straight line.

  • Radius A3 A5 \u003d opening of the chest tuck \u003d 2 × (Cr2 - Cr1) \u003d 2 × (48.2 - 44.2) \u003d 8. We put the compass in A3 and draw an arc.
  • Radius G6 A5 = A3G6 = 26.9. We connect points A5 and G6.

Shoulder slope:

is also found using 2 radii.

  • Radius A5 P5 \u003d A2 P1 - shoulder tuck \u003d 15.2 - 1.5 \u003d 13.7
  • Radius G6 P5 \u003d Vpkp + 0.5 × Pdtp \u003d 23 + 0.5 × 1.3 \u003d 23.7

Connect points P5 and A5.

Check: point P1 must be higher than point P5. If point P5 is higher, you need to cut off a piece of the shoulder from the front and add it to the back). Horizontal alignment is allowed.

We are building sleeve entry line .

Additional points:

  • Point P6 - horizontal from the lower 1/3 of the back (see figure below)
  • Bisector from point Г3 = 0.2 × Г2Г3 = 0.2 × 11.6 = 2.3

Now we need to check front width at point P6:

  • W transmission \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 \u003d 17.1

To do this, set aside from point P6 the perpendicular to the tuck line (see dotted line in the figure below).

On the other side of the tuck at the same level, we draw a horizontal line with a dotted line. Measure the length of both dotted lines = 16cm (in my drawing).

And the width should be 17.1 cm. The missing value is set aside on the horizontal from point P6. We put new point P6.


We draw with the help of the pattern the line of entry into the pocket.


Hip Width

Equalize the segments G»G4 = B»B21

Calculate the difference between your hip width and chest width:

Difference \u003d (Sb + Pb) - G "G1 \u003d (50 + 1.5) - 49 \u003d 2.5.

That is, the lack along the line of the hips \u003d 2.5 cm. So you need to expand the half of the front and half of the back by 1.25 cm each:

  • from point B2 to the left 1.25 cm = expand in front
  • from point B21 to the right 1.25 cm = expand the back

Draw vertical lines from these new points.



We build darts at the waist

First you need to calculate the difference between T»T1 and your waist width (based on measurements).

  • Difference \u003d T "T1 - (St + Fri) \u003d 48.5 - (35 + 1.5) \u003d 12

We distribute this difference between 4 tucks:

  1. in the middle seam 1.5
  2. in the side 4.5
  3. back tuck 3.5
  4. front tuck 2.5
  • in the middle seam 1.5 cm (see the figure below: from point T "to the right 1.5 cm. We draw straight lines from point 1.5 to the level of the line of the shoulder blades and point B")

  • Side seam 4.5 cm (see the figure below: set aside from point T2 by 2.25 to the right and left, connect with point G4 and points 1.25 on the hip line)

Back tuck - 3.5 cm. (see the figure below: we divide the distance between the tuck of the middle seam and the side tuck on the back in half, from this point we set aside half of the tuck - 1.75 - to the right and left. Draw the center line parallel to branch. From the level of the shoulder blades we lower the angle of the tuck by 5 cm down, from the level of the hips we set aside 2 cm upwards and draw the lower side of the tuck)


Front tuck: 2.5 cm (see the figure below: on the center line of the center of the chest, lay off half of the tuck - 1.25 cm - from point G6 lower the angle of the tuck by 3 cm, connect the lower side to the hip line)

We draw a bottom line along the front (under the pattern) and back (equalizing the sides, at right angles, as in the drawing of the backrest below)


Congratulations! If you have read up to this point, then perhaps you already have a YOUR pattern base , or you already at least understood how it is done. But this is the first step towards a series of future beautiful dresses! In the next article I will tell you how to translate a breast tuck so that it is invisible on the product. See you on the blog pages and Sew With Me!

Here is a very interesting option building a base pattern on fabric:

This article talks about how to build a pattern for the basis of a dress for beginners, in simple words, With detailed description and a drawing of each stage of construction.

A pattern - a base - is a basic drawing of a product, made to individual measurements, made on paper, on the basis of which various styles are subsequently modeled. Building a pattern - the foundation is necessary for both beginners in sewing and experienced seamstresses, and you need to take it very responsibly. The quality of fit of the future product on the figure, its beauty and convenience in the process of wearing depends on how well the pattern is built. The accuracy of the patterns made on its basis depends on how well the pattern is made - the basis, and the error made in it, reaching the finished product, can develop into a serious defect.

Let's build the base pattern of the dress according to your measurements.

Materials and tools:

- paper (preferably graph paper), centimeter tape, ruler, pencil

Measurements:

We measure on the figure, I indicate mine as an example, you measure yours.

– Dress length (Di) = 100 cm,

- Length of the back to the waist (Dts) = 43 cm,

- Armhole depth (GPr) = 21 cm,

- Hip height (Wb) = 22 cm (taken without measurements from 20 to 22 cm, but I prefer to take measurements from the figure),

- Shoulder length (DPL) = 13 cm,

- Half-circumference of the neck (PoSh) = 17 cm,

- Half-girth of the chest 1 (half-girth above the chest, PoG1) \u003d 42.5 cm,

- Half chest 2 (half chest, PoG, PoG2) = 46 cm,

- Semi-waist circumference (POT) = 31 cm,

- Semicircumference of the hips (PoB) = 48.5 cm

We calculate auxiliary measures

(formulas valid for exhaust gas > 80 cm):

- Depth of the armhole GPR = OG / 10 + (10.5_12 cm) = 92/10 + (10.5_12) = 19.7_21.2 cm. (In my case, the measured value entered the calculated range, and GPR = 21 cm. If your values ​​do not match, you must take the average between the measured and calculated).

- Armhole width ShPr = OG / 8 - 1.5 cm = 92/8 - 1.5 = 10 cm,

- Back width SS = OG / 8 + 5.5 cm = 92/8 + 5.5 = 17 cm,

- Chest width WH = OG / 4 - 4 cm = 92/4 - 4 = 19 cm

Choose the degree of fit of the dress

When constructing a base pattern, it is necessary to take into account the allowance for freedom of fit (hereinafter referred to as PSO), this is the “air amount” between the human body and the product. The dress is very adjacent, adjacent, semi-adjacent and straight silhouette. I will build a dress pattern of an adjacent silhouette, my increases are as follows:

PoG with PSO \u003d 46 + 1.5 \u003d 47.5 cm,

SHG with PSO = 19 + 1 = 20 cm,

AL with PSO = 17 + 0 = 17 cm,

SPR with PSO = 10 + 0.5 = 10.5 cm,

GPR with PSO = 21 + 0.5 = 21.5 cm

Building a pattern-basis of a dress

Step 1. Construction of a basic rectangle. In the upper left corner, stepping back from the top 10 cm, put point A. Draw down a vertical line with length \u003d Di \u003d 100 cm. Mark point H. From point H, draw to the right horizontal line length PoG + PSO = 47.5 cm, mark the point H1 (HH1 is located at an angle of 90˚ with respect to AH). From point A, draw a horizontal line to the right 47.5 cm long, mark point A1. Connect points A1 and H1. The result is a quadrilateral AA1H1H, check that all angles in it are necessarily 90˚.

Step 2 Building horizontal lines.

Step 2a. chest line. From point A along the line AN down, set aside AG \u003d GPR + PSO \u003d 21.5 cm. Draw a horizontal line, mark point G1, as shown in the drawing.

Step 2b. Waistline. From point A along the line AN down, set aside AT \u003d Dts \u003d 43 cm. Draw a horizontal line, mark point T1, as shown in the drawing.

Step 2c. Hip line. From point T along the line AH, lay down TB \u003d Wb \u003d 22 cm. Draw a horizontal line, mark point B1, as shown in the drawing.

Step 3 Auxiliary armhole lines. On the chest line GG1, to the right of point G, set aside the value of SH + PSO = 17 cm, mark point P1, from point P1 to the right, set aside ShPr + PSO = 10.5 cm, mark point P2. Check the length of the segment P2G1, it should be equal to ШГ + PSO = 20 cm. From points P1 and P2, build perpendiculars to the segment AA1, mark points P3, P4.

Step 4. Side line. In the middle of the segment P1P2, mark the point P, draw a vertical line to HH1.

Step 5. The neck of the back. From point A to the right, set aside AA2 \u003d PoW / 3 + 0.5 cm \u003d 17/3 + 0.5 \u003d 6.2 cm, I will round up to 6.5 cm. From point A2 we build a perpendicular, on it at a distance of 2 cm from AA1 mark point A3. We connect AA3 with a smooth concave line.

Step 6 Back shoulder. From point P3, lay down 1.5 cm, mark point P5. Connect points A3 and P5 with a straight line. From point A3 set aside Dpl \u003d 13 cm, mark point P6.

Step 7. Armhole back. Divide the segment P3P1 in half, denote the midpoint as P7. From point P1, construct a bisector of angle P3P1P 2 cm long. Draw a concave smooth line from point P3 to point P through point P7 and the bisector of angle P3P1P.

Step 8. Front neckline. From point G1 upwards, set aside G1A4 \u003d PoG / 2 + 0.5 cm \u003d 23.5 cm. From point A4 to the left, draw a horizontal line, set aside the segment A4A5 \u003d PoW / 3 + 0.5 cm \u003d 6.2 cm (I will round up to 6.5 cm). From point A4, lay down the segment A4A6 \u003d PoW / 3 + 1.5 cm \u003d 7.2 cm (I will round up to 7.5 cm). Connect the points A5 and A6 with a smooth concave line.

Step 9. Shelf shoulder and chest tuck. Set aside 4 cm from point A5 to the left, then 1 cm down, mark point P8. Connect points A5 and P8 with a straight line.

From the point P8, lower the perpendicular to the line of the chest. Set aside 1 cm from the point of intersection of the perpendicular with the line of the chest to the right, mark the point G2. Connect the points P8 and G2 with a straight line. Divide the segment P8G2 in half, from the division point to the left, build a horizontal segment with a length = PoG - PoG1 = 46 - 42.5 = 3.5 cm. Draw a straight line through the end of the segment from point G2, set aside the segment G2P9 = G2P8 on it.

On the armhole line of the back, mark the middle of the segment P3P7 with the point P10. Connect points P9 and P10 with a straight line. On it, from point P9, set aside a segment to the left = DPL - 4 cm (rounded length of segment A5P8) - 1 cm = 8 cm. From the end of the segment, lower the perpendicular to the line P9P10 2 cm long, mark point P11. Connect P9 and P11 with a straight line.

When sewing, the tuck will close, the points P8 and P9 will be aligned, the line A5P8P9P11 is the line of the shoulder of the shelf, its length is slightly less than the length of the shoulder of the back, if after modeling the lengths of the shoulders do not change, then when sewing the shoulder of the back will need to be slightly seated.

Step 10. Armhole shelves. From the point P2 upwards, set aside the distance = 1 / 4P2P4. Mark point P12. Connect P11 and P12 with a straight line. Divide the segment P11P12 in half, from the obtained point to the right, build a perpendicular to the segment P11P12 1 cm long. From the point P2, build the bisector of the angle PP2P4 2 cm long. Draw a concave smooth line from the point P11 to the point P through the perpendicular, point P12 and the bisector of the angle PP2P4.

Step 11. Travel darts. The sum of the solutions of all tackle tucks \u003d PoG - PoT \u003d 46 - 31 \u003d 15 cm. 1/3 of the amount we take it to the side tucks (I have 15/3 = 5 cm). 2/3 of the amount (10 cm) for the front and back tucks, and we take a little more for the back tuck (6 cm). With this value of the solution, when sewing a dress, it is necessary to make 2 darts on the back (distribute 6 cm into two darts), but we are now building a base pattern, a base for further modeling of various styles, and my size of the dress itself is small, so here I will build 1 tuck with such a large solution, and when modeling a specific style, decide how many tucks I need on the finished product . 4 cm remains on the tuck of the shelf.

Side darts. From the point T2 to the right and to the left, we set aside 5/2 = 2.5 cm. The resulting points are connected by straight lines with the point P and with the midpoint or 1/3 of the segment B2T2 (depending on the steepness of the hips).

Back tuck. We divide the segment GP in half and lower the perpendicular to the line BB1. On the perpendicular from the GP segment, lay down 2_3 cm, from the BB1 ​​segment upwards 2 cm. From the point T2 to the right and to the left, lay off 6/2 = 3 cm each. We build a tuck.

Shelf pullout. From the point G2 we lower the perpendicular to BB1. On the perpendicular from the point G2, lay down 5_6 cm. From the point T3 to the right and to the left, lay off 4/2 = 2 cm each. We build a tuck.

Step 12. The line of the side seam of the bottom of the dress. We calculate the insufficient volume along the hip line = PoB - (PoG + PSO) = 48.5 - 47.5 = 1 cm. From the B2 line to the right and left, we set aside the values ​​\u003d (insufficient volume + 1 cm) / 2 = 1 cm. We build lines side seam, as shown in the drawing (red line - back line, blue - shelf line), check the values ​​\u200b\u200b(distance from B to the red line) + (distance from B1 to the blue line) \u003d PoB + 1 cm.

Step 13. The pattern is ready. I advise you to leave it in this form on graph paper, and do the modeling on copies made on tracing paper.

Now you know how to build a base pattern to your measurements and you can do it yourself.

This article is for those who are just starting to learn how to model clothes, who already have experience in sewing children's dresses for girls, and who want to take it to the next level - try sewing the first dress for an adult figure. To do this, you need to master the technique of constructing basic pattern-basics. Our article will be relevant for beginners and experienced seamstresses to build patterns. So you can learn from A to Z the basics of creating a dress.

The base pattern is a perfect cast of the figure, if done correctly, then any thing sewn on it will fit perfectly. With this basic template, you can build almost any style of dress, whether it's a pencil dress with raglan sleeves or free dress with one-piece sleeves. This pattern is basic for slender and full, it can be modified depending on which dress silhouette best suits the owner

There are many methods for constructing patterns (here are a few of them - according to Italian technology, according to Muller, according to Zlachevskaya). All of them differ primarily in the composition of the initial information (this is the number, types and methods of taking measurements, as well as the magnitude of the increases and their distribution according to drawing sections), and secondly, the methods and sequence of drawing construction. Choosing one of the methods, you need to follow it without mixing different methods, the accuracy of the pattern and the fit of the finished product depend on it.

Learning how to properly build a pattern for the base of a dress

Taking measurements - the beginning of modeling

So, where to start - of course, with taking measurements. In this case, you may need help, since not all measurements are convenient to take on your own. To begin with, we tie a rope at the waist and start measuring.

The height of the product is from the seventh cervical vertebra to the point where the hem of the future dress will end.

  • Og1 (chest girth first)- we draw a centimeter tape along the back horizontally behind the shoulder blades, and in front - above the chest.
  • OG2 (chest girth second)- without removing the tape after the previous measurement and without changing its position on the back, lower it to the center of the chest so that it passes along the protruding points.
  • OG3 (chest girth third)- here the tape is also located horizontally and passes in front along the protruding points of the chest, behind it is located under the shoulder blades.
  • OT (waist circumference)- we place the measuring tape at the narrowest point of the waist, but do not tighten it.
  • OB (thigh circumference)- removed at the widest point at the bottom of the figure. In the presence of a protruding tummy, the tape must be loosened in such a way that if it is raised to the stomach without opening, the stomach passes through the resulting ring.
  • These are all the main measurements of girths, now let's take measurements of lengths.
  • Back length to waist- lower the measuring tape from the seventh cervical vertebra to the rope tied at the waist line.
  • hip height- without tearing off, we move a centimeter from the waist line to the protruding point of the buttocks.
  • Shoulder height oblique at the back- the centimeter goes from the intersection of the waist line with the spine to the end point of the shoulder.
  • Back width- the centimeter is placed horizontally at the widest point of the back (the distance between the joints of the arms with the body).
  • Large chest width- the distance from the folds between the arms and the body, going through the protruding points of the chest.
  • Small chest width- the distance from the folds between the arms and the body, going on top of the chest.
  • Armhole bottom height- to take this exact measurement, you need to hold the ruler under your armpit and measure the distance from the top edge of the ruler to the waist line
  • chest center- the length of the segment between the nipple points.
  • neck girth- the centimeter passes along the seventh cervical vertebra from behind, along the base of the neck and the jugular cavity in front.
  • Shoulder Width- length from the base of the neck to the extreme point of the shoulder.
  • The length of the sleeve- bend the arm at the elbow and measure the distance from the extreme shoulder point to the planned length of the sleeve with the arm lowered along the outer side of the arm.
  • The measurements are taken and recorded, now you can start building a pattern.

Building a pattern-base for a dress with an adjacent silhouette

The pattern-base of the dress fits easily into a rectangle. The length of the rectangle will be the length of the finished product - from the seventh cervical vertebra to the point where the hem of the dress will end. The width of the rectangle is equal to the half-girth of the chest + a few cm (from 0 to 7), how much to add depends on whether the dress is of an adjacent or loose silhouette. We are building a dress of an adjacent silhouette, in this case we take 3 cm for an increase, they will need to be evenly distributed over the back, armholes and chest.

  • The most time-consuming part of the pattern is the top of the dress. For ease of further work, we divide the upper part of the resulting rectangle into 3 zones - to build the back, armholes and front.
  • For the back area, divide the measurement of the width of the back by 2.
  • Armhole width - ? Og/4 + 2 cm
  • The width of the rectangle for the front - what will remain after marking the first two zones.
  • To each zone we add a part of the increase in free fit.

After the top is divided into 3 zones in the back area, draw a neck line (neck backs = ? neck girth /3 + 0.5cm) - we set aside the resulting distance to the left and slightly raise this point to a height equal to ? neck girth /10 + 0.8 cm, now smoothly freehand connect the edge of the rectangle with the resulting point.

  • We build a shoulder line. Shoulder line length isshoulder length measure length + 1.6 cm. This line goes at an angle, the level of inclination will be different depending on the type of shoulders - 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders, 2.5 cm for normal and 1.5 cm for high shoulders. We put this value down from the edge of the neck, connect the two points and put it on the resulting oblique lineshoulder length measurement + 1.6 cm.
  • We build a back tuck. The width of this tuck is always 1.6 cm. This tuck starts 4 cm from the edge of the neck, the length of the tuck is 6 cm. We connect these points, we get a pattern of the back with a tuck.

We mark the line of the chest. To do this, from the edge of the shoulder, lay down ? bust /4 + 7 cm. Draw the line of the chest strictly horizontally.

We build an armhole on the back. On the chest line, mark a point exactly in the middle of the armhole zone. The bend of the armhole at the bottom starts at 1/3 of the height of the armhole, it can be drawn by eye.

We build an armhole on the front. We determine the height of the armhole according to the formula - bust / 4 + 5 cm, we put this value up from the chest line. We mark the point of deviation of the armhole - dividing the bust by 10 and set aside this distance to the left of the point indicating the height of the armhole, connect the points of smooth lines, given that the bend of the armhole in front also begins at the level of 1/3 of the height of the armhole.

We build the neck of the front (GP). Its width = ? neck girth / 3 + 0.5 cm. The lower edge of the GP should be raised above the chest line by a distance that is calculated by the formula: ? bust /2 + 3.5 cm and mark this point on a straight line going up the side edge of our pattern.

Let's calculate two more quantities:
  1. Neck depth = ? neck girth /3 + 2 cm - we put the distance down from the neck lift point, mark it with a dot.
  2. Neck diagonal = ? neck girth /3 + 1 cm- this segment is laid diagonally to the left of the neck lift point.

And we connect the obtained points with a smooth line.

We build the line of the shoulder of the front shelf - we connect the edge of the neck with the edge of the armhole in front.

We build a chest tuck. It has the shape of a triangle, the apex of which falls on the chest line at the point where the straight line descends from the shoulder line through the center of the chest (to find this point, to the left of the edge of the front pattern, we set aside ? measurements of the center of the chest + 1 cm). The width of the tuck is usually determined empirically depending on the size of the chest. The lengths of both sides of the tuck must match, so the second side of the resulting triangle must be extended to the length of the first.

We distinguish the back and in front of the line of the side seam. To do this, we divide the width of the armhole zone into 3 equal parts and draw a vertical line through the left point.

We mark the lines of the waist and hips. To do this, lay down from the top edge of the pattern back length, we draw a horizontal line through this point - this is the waist line. The line of the hips will go parallel to the line of the waist lower by? back length measurements. On the front shelf, these lines need to be lowered down by 1.5 cm.

We build side tucks. We calculate the width of the side tuck using the formula pattern width – ? waist circumference - 2 cm. We divide the resulting value by 4, because we have 2 tucks, each of which consists of 2 parts. The resulting distance retreats to the right and left of the place where the side seam line connects to the armhole line and connect these points.

We build darts for the waist on the back. Let's draw a straight line through which the center of the tuck will pass. To do this, on the line of the chest and the line of the hips to the left, we mark points at a distance equal to back width / 4, draw a straight line through them. The upper edge of the tuck will be on the line of the chest at the point of its intersection with the center of the tuck, the lower edge of the tuck is on the straight line of the center of the tuck 4 cm above the hip line.

We build darts for the waist on the front. We draw down the continuation of the line of the center of the tuck of the chest and on this straight line we measure 4 cm down from the line of the chest and up from the line of the hips, from the waist line on both sides of the center line of the tuck, set aside the width of the tuck, connect all points.

We build the extensions of the hips and the bottom of the dress. The standard for hem extension is 1.5 cm. If there is a significant difference between the OG and OB, the extension will be equal to (? OB-1/2 OG) / 2. We set aside this value on both sides along the hip line from the side seam line and repeat the same along the hem line. We smoothly connect these 4 points. The construction must be done on the back and front, the lines will intersect.

The last step is to round the hem. We lower the lines of the edges of the pattern on the right and left by 1.5 cm and connect these points with the points of the corners of the expansion of the hem.

Pattern-base for women's dress ready. This is perhaps the most understandable way construction, according to which even a beginner in modeling can design a dress.

To help novice craftswomen select video tutorials in which you can find answers to questions about the modeling process.

A selection of videos on the topic of the article



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