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How to shave your beard with a straight razor. All about straight razor

IN modern fashion the tradition of bladed (dangerous) shaving is gradually returning. With the right technique, the male accessory significantly reduces the number of passes of the blade over the skin due to its length, eliminating further irritation of the epidermis, and also gives a lot of pleasure, because it removes hairs without additional effort.

Let's take a closer look at questions about choosing the best blade, how to shave straight razor and what measures to take in case of scratches and cuts.

Benefits of wet shaving

Most men prefer a dry shaving technique, justifying this with maximum convenience: the procedure can be performed anywhere, and the face does not need to be moistened with water (shaving cream is used and Shaver). But this method is chosen by those who have not experienced all the advantages of the wet shaving method. Chief among them is the lack inflammatory processes skin, poorly shaved face.

The wet method technique involves the use of a two- or three-blade disposable razor, but in order to save money and process efficiency, you can purchase a reusable simple but straight razor.

Ideally, the hygiene procedure is best performed immediately after taking a shower. Hot water will relax facial muscles, open pores and soften hair. You can use another method - attach a warm, damp towel to your face for 5-10 minutes.
Discomfort during the wet shaving technique occurs in the case of a long beard. The hair is not cut, but pulled out. In this case, it is better to cut them and only then proceed with the procedure.

What should a beginner pay attention to when choosing a hazard?

There are a wide variety of brands on the market under which straight razors are made, but only a few are worthy of attention. These include German manufacturers with a centuries-old history of producing men's accessories with dangerous blades: Boker, Robert Klaas, Dovo and Hubert. The price of such razors is in the range of $ 80-120.

The following recommendations will help you choose the right shavetka:

Blade material. Blades are made from carbon or stainless steel. From the side of the convenience of the hair removal procedure, it is better to make a choice in favor of the first material, and if the life expectancy of the product (the absence of a corrosion process) is in the first place, then you can look at the stainless steel;
Handle material. There are no restrictions at this point, since the quality of the shave will not suffer from this. Knowledgeable people speak of the hilt as a setting and seek to acquire it from ivory, wood, tortoise shell, etc.;
Form. A slightly concave blade adapts better to the unevenness of the face, but straight blades cannot be called a safe shave;
Brand. A quality tool should have only an embossed mark on the blade. The applied image with paint indicates a low quality of fear or a fake under a well-known brand. The absence of a stigma also indicates the poor quality of the goods;
The butt and cutting edge should be thin;
Correct design. Classical shavetka is made of one or several parts. If the blade is hidden in the handle, then the fastening of these components is made in the form of a rivet (without springs), which is the axis of rotation of the blade. It helps to freely open or close the tool;
Sharpening. All quality products famous brands do not have a sharpening that allows you to perfectly remove hair from the face.

Before the first use, the blade must be sharpened.

Of all the options for buying a new razor, you should stop at a specialty store that sells men's accessories and gifts, or try ordering products directly from the manufacturer.

Shaving with a dangerous razor correctly

You can learn how to use a dangerous hair removal tool by following step-by-step recommendations. The instruction involves the implementation of a certain technique and the exclusion of incorrect actions that lead to skin damage.

Step 1.
You need to start from one side of the face, for example, the right one. Left hand bring it behind the head and pull the cheek up with your fingers, providing a smooth skin surface for the blade to glide perfectly. Move from top to bottom at an angle of 30 0C, without pressure. Large deviations in the angle will lead to cuts or poor hygiene. Shaving against hair growth is not recommended. Because this will lead to ingrown hairs into the skin and irritation. After processing the right cheek, you should continue shaving the lower part of the face, tilting your head to the left and throwing it back.
Attention should also be paid to the bristles under the jaw. Also, with your left hand, stretch the skin and shave in the direction of hair growth (from top to bottom).

Step 2
Handle dangerous blade the left side will be more difficult due to the fact that you need to change hands and shave with your left. With insufficient skill, the hand can not be changed, then the technique of the first step will change.

Pull the skin above the ear with the fingers of the left hand. Hold the razor so as not to restrict the visibility of the top of the blade. Perform the procedure from top to bottom. As the instrument is moved, the fingers should also descend and stretch the skin of the lower cheek and chin.

The procedure for removing hair under the jaw and on the neck of the left side of the face is the same as in step 1.
Step 3
The shaving technique above the upper lip is no different from the right and left sides of the face. It is necessary to pull the upper lip down hard to ensure that the skin is smooth for the blade to glide easily.
Step 4
Removing hair from the chin involves pulling the lower lip up. Blade movement - according to hair growth.
Step 5
Shaving under the chin requires great care, as the skin in this area is particularly delicate and sensitive.
It is necessary to tilt the head back and tighten the muscles of the chin, pull the skin down with the fingers of the left hand. For effective shaving, the movement of the tool must be in the direction of hair growth, across and against. Without skill, it is better to limit yourself to re-passing the blade from top to bottom.

A visual sequence of shaving with a dangerous razor can be viewed on the video.

It will be determined in the way of grasping fears. Distinguish:
- Canonical. The tool is held with the cutting edge up and down. To use the canonical grip correctly, you need to practice. For this, an inexpensive shavetka is purchased (a straight razor with replaceable blades).
- Free. The method does not have a specific technique for holding the tool and is expressed in a free, user-friendly technique.
What grip would not be chosen in the process of using the tool, the ability to relax the hand during a dangerous process and feel the inertia of the device plays a significant role;
Use shaving foam;
After each pass, wash your face with warm water and apply foam again (shown in the video);
In the process, it is necessary to moisten the apprehension with water to avoid the drying of the foam;
Finish the process correctly. Barbers recommend taking care of your facial skin. First, rinse your face with cool water, then use a softening or moisturizing lotion that prevents skin irritation.
The final procedure, but optional, is the application of a small amount of talc.

Proper use of caution

Before the first and subsequent uses, the shavetka is completely washed in a soapy solution, rinsed, and wiped dry with a waffle towel.

With rare use, it is recommended to lubricate the tool with machine oil and wrap it with paraffin paper. Frequent use excludes these actions, it is enough to store it in a dry place (not in the bathroom).
Dressing on a belt made of cowhide or soft yuft is an obligatory procedure for caring for the instrument. It is carried out before shaving so that burrs do not form on the blade.

The tool must only be used for its intended purpose. Touching other objects and impacts will damage the cutting edge.

Properly stored and used carefully male accessory skin care products, it will last a lifetime!

How to deal with scratches and cuts?

Skin damage is inevitable if a man:

Uses a blunt, too concave tool;
Uses incorrect (loose) razor grip;
Shaves against hair growth, not having sufficient skill in technique;
in a hurry;
Tenses his hand.

Even experienced barbers can cut their client's skin on the face, so before you learn how to shave with caution, you need to go through a thorny path, accompanied by scratches and cuts.

You can stop the blood from a minor cut by pressing it with your finger, a large wound should be treated with an antiseptic and sealed with a plaster.

Why is the classic shave back in fashion?

Fashion develops in a spiral. Now, more than ever, vintage and retro style. In addition, in the current era of digital technologies and fast food, there is an especially acute need to slow down ... and not run, ... stop, ... live the moments of your life consciously, slowly and with pleasure. The classic wet shave is part of that approach to life. This is not a daily routine, but a pleasant aesthetic ritual, a manifestation of care and attention to your loved one.

A straight razor shaves better than any T-bar. It's an axiom, which has not been refuted over the past 300 years, since the creation of a dangerous razor of a modern look, nothing more functional has been invented and will not be invented. We do not consider the Egyptians with their copper scrapers. A straight razor is the perfect shaving tool.

What is the dangerous razor shaving technique made of, how to shave correctly, what should a beginner pay attention to? A novice user needs to master a few key skills.

Grips, holding the razor

Grips, holding the razor, are divided into "canonical" and free. The canonical grips are the grips that barbers are taught to hold the razor with the point down (a) and the point up (b).

To change the direction of the shave, the brush flips the razor 180 degrees - it's simple. All other retention methods are free. Practice itself will tell you one or another grip, which will be convenient for you to shave certain places on your face. When mastering grips, even before shaving, learn right away relax your hand . Tension in the hand never will not allow you to shave properly and safely. A relaxed hand will quickly learn everything you need. You can learn how to properly shave with a straight razor with both your right and left hands. For faster development of motor skills of the left hand, try brushing your teeth with it.

Shave as you like, as your hand allows, then you will find your style. Do not imitate anyone, do not watch videos of “swaggering gurus” on YouTube, many of them have shaved twice and spread their “rich experience and smart advice” to you.

When shaving, in the cut area, the skin must be taut. If you allow a “wave” of skin in front of the blade, then immediately start this “wave”, cut off the top layer of skin. It is not necessary to stretch the skin too much - it is enough to create a slight tension in order to get a high-quality cut. Someone manages to create the required skin tension in the right place and at the right time with facial expressions, head tilt. Someone helps with a hand. Shave as you please. The direction of hair growth on the face of each person is very individual, here lies the answer to the question: “why can’t I shave some areas around the neck with a dangerous razor, but I can do it well with a machine?”. Answer: “Especially in the neck area, the direction of hair growth can change randomly.” The length of the cutting edge of the machine blade is 3.5 - 4 cm and you can change the direction of the cut by 360 degrees. In this case, almost the entire cutting edge of the blade has contact with the skin. With dangerous razors it is somewhat more difficult, the standard length of the cutting edge is around 7 cm. If this question is fundamental to you, pay attention to the old (not a remake !!!) Japanese razors with a working edge length of 4 - 5.5 cm, folding kamisori (Folding Kamisori) or short wedges. I don't remember any other manufacturer making razors with such a short cutting edge.

Choosing a shaving product (very important)

Next is the question of choosing shaving products: soap, foam, shaving gel, everything that will make it easier to cut the bristles, ensuring that the blade glides smoothly over the skin. This question is again very individual for everyone, so there are no unequivocal tips, only your selection of what suits you best. From myself I will add that the difference in shaving comfort is very different depending on the chosen product. With one foam for 250 rubles I shave much more comfortable than with other foam for 800 rubles, I will not name brands. Soap with a horse price tag of 3,000 rubles per 40 grams causes skin irritation for me. Be sure to experiment on yourself and do not listen to anyone. I recommend that you start shaving using gel. From my point of view, shaving gel is the most universal remedy. Shaving gel provides the best glide of the blade, due to the higher content of glycerols, does not dry out as quickly as foam or soap. Even if For Woman is written on the gel - take it, you will not be disappointed.

Preparing your face before shaving with a straight razor

To prepare the face for shaving, it is necessary to clean the skin and bristles from dirt and sebum, moisturize the bristles. It is to cleanse and moisturize, not steam. By steaming the bristles, you steam out the skin and it becomes looser, therefore, more prone to cuts. Hair is hydrophilic, it absorbs water. Absorbing water, the hair increases in diameter up to 20%. Wet, swollen hair loses stiffness and is much easier to cut. It is much more difficult to wet hair protected by sebum. Shaving gel is applied to clean and moistened bristles. This is the necessary minimum. The easiest option is to shave after a shower. Razor - gel - hand - everything.

The miracles with hot towels in hairdressing salons, shown in many videos, are understandable in terms of process technology. Temperature reduces the time for cleansing and swelling of the bristles, hot moisture removes sebum better, that's all the sacrament. Of course you can apply this technique at home, at your convenience. I think this is redundant in the presence of a shower with warm water.

Safety shaving technique

Recommended razor directions are shown in the illustrations. The first pass is done in the direction of hair growth, the second - against. I want to draw your attention to shaving such difficult areas as the mustache and chin area. The second pass on these zones is done parallel to the lip line. This is enough for a good shave. At the beginning of the development of the shaving technique, do not try to shave in these areas against hair growth, the hair in these areas is as hard and thick as possible (individually). Shaving these areas requires a certain amount of skill. The main difficulty will be in working out the movements when moving from the chin to the neck and vice versa. Pay close attention to the angle of the blade to the skin during this transition. Hammer in your head two conditions for success: don't rush, don't push.

Now about the technique of shaving the bristles. The first thing to take care of is not to watch videos on the Internet where people shave with dangerous razors. Everything that is shown there is in 90% of cases - the wrong technique. Amateurs, having learned from the same amateurs, distribute garbage videos and mislead newcomers. Namely, the people without exception shave with a straight pull of the razor (noted for 2010), perpendicular to the cutting edge - i.e. imitate the movement of a T-shaped machine, only do it with a straight razor. This means that a straight razor is put in a row for a shaving competition with razors on "their field". It should be noted that the profile of the blades in the machines was created specifically for such work, and a straight razor was created for a completely different cut. Of course, you can shave like that, but why learn to shave the wrong way so that you can relearn it later? Only occasionally come across videos on which you can see the correct course of the razor - an oblique cut. I strongly advise you to carefully, many times, look.

BASICS:

first law: the razor shaves under its own weight, the hand only sets the direction of the cut - this is the formula for success. You must realize that shaving is not due to the effort of the hand, but due to the inertia of the razor blade itself. The force and the wrong direction of the cut, pulling the blade along the working edge are cuts. If you still have to make an effort when shaving and there is a feeling that the razor catches the bristles, skips the hair - stop, most likely the razor is not sharpened.

The exception is the mustache and chin area (hard bristles), when shaving these areas against hair growth. In this case, the resistance is very felt. Reduce blade travel in these areas to 5mm. With insufficient skill, it will not be possible to shave with any razor otherwise.

In the process of shaving, a dangerous razor should slide smoothly over the skin, the inclination of the razor blade to the skin should not exceed 15-20 degrees, this is a butt slightly raised above the skin, nothing more.

second law: - a dangerous razor is designed for a "oblique" cut. There are two angles in hairdressing textbooks - the angle of the razor to the skin (15-20 degrees), and the mowing angle (30-40 degrees) - i.e. the angle of the "descent" of the razor with the line of movement in a straight line, if you build a perpendicular to the cutting edge. Pay attention to this circumstance, because. in many articles, and often these are just reprints from old textbooks or manuals for hairdressers, there is a mention of an angle of 30-40 degrees without explaining what this angle is. Beginners understand it as the angle of the blade to the skin - it's just an abnormally huge angle! For smooth and easy hair cutting, the razor should be moved over the skin with a cutting edge not perpendicular to the direction of the cut section of hair, and at a certain angle (30-40) - so that there would be a cutting movement either towards the head or the heel of the razor. A razor with an oblique cut should work cleanly and not disturb.

To better imagine the process of shaving, take a loaf of bread and a knife. First, try to cut through the bread by direct pressure with the entire cutting edge of the knife on the bread from top to bottom. In this case, you will get a model of stubble shaving with a machine that cuts hair when the direction of the razor is perpendicular to the line of the cutting edge. Now try, pressing on the knife, move it at an angle of 30-40 degrees in the direction of the cut. If the knife is well sharpened, it will go into the bread “like butter”, without noticing the obstacle. This is the correct shave. Any movement of the razor should be at an angle of 30-40 degrees to the perpendicular line of the cutting edge. This will be the very correct “oblique” cut that was taught to hairdressers. This process has one more explanation - the kinematic transformation of the sharpening angle. If someone is interested in the scientific rationale for proper shaving, then you can read . In general, a straight razor is a tool for smart and curious people. Here are the most visual illustrations sharpening angle transformations proposed by the respected Tras Krom. Two leaves from the sticker are folded in half with the same angle - a prototype of the cutting edge of a razor. One of the models was cut off at an acute angle. The line of movement of the razor is drawn with a pencil, sheets of paper are attached to the line of movement - see how the angle of the razor has changed along the “oblique cut”. It decreased, despite the fact that the angle of sharpening remained the same! The following diagram compares a "bevel cut" with a straight pull razor, also made by Tras Krom.

For a long time he could not understand the kinematics. The meaning is very simple - you can cut the hair "immediately - straight." You can cut hair by changing the position of the blade. The path of cutting the hair will be somewhat longer, but at the same time we will get what is described! There is a criterion by which you need to navigate - this is the comfort of shaving. If you feel discomfort when shaving, then the angle of the blade should be lowered slightly so that there is only a feeling of lightly stroking the blade on the skin. Any feeling of “cling” of the razor to the bristles or something like that is a signal either about an overestimated angle of the razor, or about the absence of an oblique cut, or about the poor quality of sharpening or the razor itself.

Be sure to take into account the possible discomfort at the beginning of learning how to use a straight razor. The skin is not accustomed to such exposure, it often takes some time. Be patient, this is important. Immediately and cool without experience is rare.

Foam and water while shaving categorically should not flow down the erl to the area of the upper pin. The correct consistency of the foam, this is the "cap". It should remain on the blade along with the shaved stubble, but it should not be dried out or very thick. When rinsing the suds off the blade, always hold the razor with the tip down. The water temperature should be around 40 degrees, in no case boiling water under 80 degrees, which is possible from the tap.

Avoid moisture in the area of the upper axis, this is simple, but very important. You cannot remove moisture from there, this is the main focus of razor corrosion. Hand, which you shave must stay dry for the entire shaving process- this rule will keep your razor from rust for decades. When you shave, have a towel nearby on a flat surface where you can always safely rest an open razor if your fingers feel moisture from dripping foam. Dry your hand, clean the blade and razor earl, continue.

There was a case that I remember very well: I tore off the napkin from the roll, the napkin was hard and dense, and it so happened that, while passing the napkin over the razor blade, I touched the cutting edge with it, stretching the napkin perpendicular to the edge of the blade. The sound alarmed me. As a result of studying the working edge with professional optics, I saw a micro bend on half of the RC. Such a razor will no longer shave and the belt will not correct the situation. The tip of the RK straight razor is a very delicate matter. Any, even a light touch on a solid object, leads, as a rule, to its damage. On the other hand, straight razor RK is an extremely durable tool that, when properly used, does not lose its cutting properties for many months. Somewhere I saw calculations that during one shave the working edge of the razor experiences loads comparable to the loads when cutting a horn with a diameter of more than 1 cm. By its structure, the hair is a horn tissue.

Tips for beginners about straight razor shaving.

If you are just starting to shave, don't try to shave completely the first time. it is very important! With your diligence, you will only spoil your further desire to use a straight razor because you will cut off everything that is possible on your face and get severe skin irritation. One two hair growth passage one two passage - against. At the very beginning, I generally do not advise shaving against hair growth. Get better with what you usually use - the machine. This is fine. It will be possible to shave completely and qualitatively with a dangerous razor from 6-10 times. The most important thing is not to rush. There should not be any pressure on the razor, watch the angle of the blade to the skin, control the direction of the cut, nothing complicated.

The quality of shaving, it is better to evaluate 30 minutes after shaving. Immediately after shaving, the skin is still irritated (again, everything is individual) and what can be assessed as poor shaving is actually a quickly passing irritation of the hair follicles.

Full understanding, a sense of control over the process of dangerous shaving will come in a couple of months. It may seem like a long time, but it's worth it. Some users manage to master the technique of shaving faster.

Before the dangerous razor, I had constant irritation in the neck after shaving with any cost of machines, now I forgot about it.

See the best , which is found in the open spaces. Try to see and understand these movements. Follow the rule of "oblique cut" - the cutting edge should not move perpendicular to the direction of the cut, the blade should move towards the nose or heel (30-40 degrees). Hussars are not needed - a saber across the whole face. Short and light cutting movements with the blade. Calm, relaxed and not rushed.

First understand mentally how a straight razor should work, and then translate this knowledge into the ability to do this work with your hands. If the brain accurately understands the model, the hands will quickly learn to work correctly.

That's all the secrets of straight razor shaving, good luck.

Used materials from the site http://razorsharp.ru

Shaving is done different ways– disposable machines, etc. It is the last tool that can achieve maximum quality and smooth skin to the extent that it is impossible to achieve by other methods. But working with her is not easy and, as her name implies, dangerous. In some countries, hairdressers need a special certificate that allows them to work with this tool.

Straight razor - a classic of the genre of stylists

Conditions for a good shave - good sharpening

The basis of a good dangerous shave is a sharp razor. It must be made of durable metal, not have bends and deformations. It is important to keep it as sharp as possible. If it is not sharpened too well, then it will become difficult for the master to work with it. To obtain a high-quality result, it will have to be held at a very sharp angle to the skin.

This leads to the client feeling uncomfortable and irritated. It also increases the likelihood of scratches. Therefore, entrust the regular sharpening of the razor to a professional. He will not only sharpen it quite sharply and evenly, but also at the right angle.

Razor sharpness: you can change the blades, but it is better to sharpen them correctly

To understand whether your tool is well sharpened, whether it has become dull during operation, you need to know a few rules.

Visually, the sharpness of a razor cannot be checked;
Popular test. The razor is fixed on . On top of it, perpendicular to the blade, hair falls smoothly and gently. If he only touched the blade, but broke into two parts, then the sharpening was done correctly;
Experienced craftsmen can check the sharpness with their finger, but this method is not recommended for beginners, since cuts cannot be avoided.

You need to edit a straight razor on a belt using a special paste. At the same time, you need to hold it at a certain angle to the belt. This is a rather complex and specific process. But every master should learn it, since straightening a dangerous razor with a large flow of customers should be done quite often.

WATCH THE VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

How to hold the instrument correctly

There are two ways to hold a straight razor correctly. Sometimes they are distinguished more, but the rest are only a variety or derivative of the main ones.

main method. We hold the instrument in the right cyst (or left for left-handers). The blade is facing down, the handle is facing up. The thumb rests on the bottom of the razor, to the left of the cutting edge, closer to the heel. The little finger lies on the unsharpened edge, at the end of the razor, behind the junction with the case. The rest of the fingers are on the unsharpened edge;
Second method. We take the tool in the leading hand. The blade is turned up, the handle is down. The little finger is under the ponytail, behind the screw of fastening to the case. The thumb is on the inside of the unsharpened notched edge, all other fingers are on the outside.

The second method is considered more convenient. But each master must choose it individually.

Bristle slope

All body hair grows at a certain angle to the surface of the skin. This angle is approximately equal for identical hairs growing on the same part of the body. This important fact to consider when shaving. In particular, when moving the razor, when it is tilted and when the skin is pulled.

Pulling the leather belt

To properly shave with a straight razor, you need to know how to properly stretch the skin. It must be tightened with each movement of the tool in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade. Place your finger 1.5 - 2 cm from the cutting edge and move by pressing on the skin. Use the index finger of your non-dominant hand (i.e., not the one holding the razor).

Tool angle: even if you have Solingen, the rules are the same for everyone

The instrument moves head forward, in short movements, strictly on a stretched area of the skin. To keep the skin smooth and the quality of work high, hold the razor at an angle of 30-40 degrees to the skin surface. If the angle is even sharper, the better. Movements are smooth and frequent.

Such a shave will take place with maximum comfort for the client and convenience for the master. This reduces the chance of scratches and injury.

The correct shaving technique with a dangerous razor: instructions for men

You need to use a straight razor according to certain instructions. The face is processed in several stages, following which is mandatory. This will allow you to get the best result, combined with the speed of work and comfort for the client.

The instrument must be sterilized after use on a previous client and placed in a separate box. Before applying it again, it must be treated with an antiseptic. Some craftsmen repeatedly use an antiseptic in the process of work.

before shaving

The beard or stubble is lathered with a shaving brush. The master pours a glass of warm or hot water and puts the razor there for a few seconds (the working surface of the tool). This is done so that it warms up and manipulations do not cause discomfort, goosebumps or a desire to shudder in the client. All this hinders the process.

It only takes a few seconds for the instrument to reach a comfortable temperature.

Shave right side

Shaving training with a straight razor always starts on the right side of the client's face. Some masters start on the left, as it is more convenient for them.

The first movement is directed from the temple down, parallel to the cheekbone;
The second movement is along the angle of the lower jaw;
The third - above the second, from the center of the cheek down towards the chin;
Fourth - from the chin up to the lip;
Fifth - three movements along the mustache area above the upper lip;
The sixth - on the side of the lip, begins a little to the right of the corner of the lips, moves to the zone of the fifth movement;
Seventh - from the chin to the angle of the lower jaw along the edge of the face;
Eighth, ninth and tenth - three movements along the neck from top to bottom.

During the whole process, the skin of the face should be stretched.

Shaving the left side

The straight razor shaving technique involves a different way of working on the left side of the face. This is due to the fact that most masters own hands severely block the view.

The first movement from the temple down, as on the right;
The second movement - on the cheek - is similar to the third on the right;
Third - three short movements above the upper lip;
Fourth - from a place to the right of the corner of the lips to the mustache zone and from the same place down to the chin;
Fifth - a series of movements along the line of the lower jaw, from its angle to the chin;
Sixth - On the chin to the lip, from the bottom up;
Seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth - a series of movements from the chin and jaw line down to the neck.

No matter how sharp your razor is, after such a shave, hair growth will still leave the remnants of the bristles. To eliminate them, repeated shaving against growth is carried out.

Second phase

Starts right. The first movement is along the neck, closer to the ear, from the bottom up. The second - along the angle of the lower jaw to the temple. The third is from the jaw up. The fourth is from the jaw to the ear. Fifth - from the jaw to the chin. Next, the chin itself is shaved and the area to the side of it, towards the mustache growth line. After that, re-shave the area under the lower lip and neck, moving from the bottom up, i.e. against hair growth.

On the left, also start with the neck. Then shave your cheek in three strokes from bottom to top. The fifth movement starts from the corner of the lips down the chin, the sixth - from the same area up to the nose. Then the area under the lower lip and neck is shaved.

After the procedure

Wipe the foam off your skin with a towel. Now wash with cool water. When skin is prone to irritation, use a warm compress with a damp towel for a few minutes.

Shaving with caution is a whole range of activities, be prepared for them

Now apply any aftershave that suits your skin type.

Men shave at different intervals. It is enough for someone to shave off the vegetation once every 5-7 days, others are forced to take care of their face twice a day. The stiffer the bristle, the more carefully it needs to be shaved. Owners of such vegetation are not suitable for conventional machine and electric razors. They are almost impossible to shave cleanly, and stubble appears quite quickly. They scratch the skin and can cause inflammation. Only correct solution for such people - straight razor.

If you have a perfectly sharpened, high-quality straight razor, or simply "careful", and you have mastered the technique of shaving, then you can get rid of the bristles for a long time. "Opaska" practically does not cause irritation and does not leave cuts. Of course, for this you need to use the correct shaving technique with a straight razor and train a lot.

Shaving with caution is a rather complicated, but at the same time intuitive procedure. To learn how to properly handle such a tool, you need a lot of practice. And it is better to immediately learn the correct technique in order to avoid mistakes and quickly master the necessary skills.

What are the main principles of a clean shave?

The sharper the razor, the less stubble

The sharpness of the blade is a fundamental condition for the correct shaving technique with a straight razor. A poorly sharpened blade cuts the bristles poorly. They have to work with more effort or at a sharper angle. All this leads only to irritation on the skin, the risk of cuts and causes discomfort. But it does not guarantee a clean shave.

You need to shave so that the blade slides over your face. "Opaska" should be at a strictly defined angle and you need to move it in the right direction.

Basic ways to hold a razor

For those who want to understand how to shave with a straight razor, it's worth learning how to hold it first. There are three basic ways to hold a tool in your hand (Fig. 1):

Method one. Little finger - on the notch of the shank, thumb- from below the neck and rests on the heel. The rest of the fingers are on the top of the instrument's earl.

Method two. The little finger is on the tail notch, the thumb is on the flat section of the erl on the inside, the other fingers, on the contrary, are on the outside. This technique is almost identical to the first, the differences are in the direction of "fear". In this method, the sting looks up.

Method three. The razor blade looks up. The middle and index fingers are on the inside of the erl, the ring finger holds the inside of the shank, and the little finger is on the tail notch. The large one holds the butt where the shank connects to the blade. The handle of the "fear" should fit snugly to the wrist.

The last, third, technique, how to shave with a dangerous razor, is considered non-standard, it is not found in the specialized literature for hairdressers and was invented empirically. But it is being used. It is useful in cases where the first two methods cannot be applied (for example, when the hands block the view), while the “fear” should move “along the hair”. For those who plan to shave on their own, this technique must be studied.

When working with any of the shaving methods, you should remember general rule: "Warning" should remove hair easily, it does not need to press hard.

Hair angle

Probably everyone knows that the hair on the skin does not grow exactly up, but at a certain slope. This angle is approximately the same for individual hairs that grow on the same area of the skin. It's another one important point, which is worth remembering when working with "fear".

How to stretch the skin

The technique of shaving with a dangerous razor provides for the obligatory stretching of the skin of the face. It is pulled in the opposite direction from the direction of the razor. Remember that it is worth stretching the skin near the blade before any new movement of the tool. The skin is stretched with one finger. It should lie 2-3 centimeters from the instrument. It is most convenient to use the index or middle finger of the left hand, if shaving is right-handed, or right hand- if left-handed.

It is clear that to work with "fear" you need to use both hands: one is holding the tool, and the other is involved in stretching the skin. Without this, a smooth shave will not work. How to properly stretch and how to shave with a dangerous razor can be viewed on ours.

Procedure: a skin area is stretched, a blade is placed, vegetation is cut off, the tool is taken away from the face. Next, a new section is stretched, a “fear” is attached, and the hair is cut off again.

Particular attention should be paid to those areas that do not have natural tension. For example, cheeks. Here you should do a stretch especially well, otherwise there is a risk of injury.

Slope and direction of "fear"

The tool always moves head first. You should make sure that he cuts the hair at an angle. This ensures an efficient and painless shave. The inclination of the blade to the surface of the face should be from 30 to 40 ° and not less.

It is not difficult to understand how to shave with a straight razor correctly: you need to work with the tool often and easily, without pressure, the brush is involved in the movement, the manipulations are rhythmic and light. This is the key to a smooth and clean shave. You can’t forcefully put pressure on the “fear” or “include” the whole hand in the work. This will only lead to the uprooting of vegetation and, as a result, irritation and pain.

Straight razor basics

Preparatory stage

They begin to shave from the temple. It is difficult for beginners to immediately put the razor at the right angle, so first it is better to lay the blade flat, and then slightly raise the back of the “guard” by 30–40 °. Next, move the tool in the direction of shaving. This is done easily, without pressure on the skin. If the blade is sharp, it will cut hair without any problems.

Usually they shave in two approaches. First, they pass with the blade in the direction of hair growth (according to growth), and then vice versa (against growth). In the first case, it is possible to get rid of the bulk of the vegetation, but tiny tips of the hair remain on the skin. To get rid of them, they pass with a razor a second time. Before this, the face is again lathered or moistened with warm water. After repeated shaving, the skin becomes perfectly smooth.

How to shave the right side of the face according to height

Shaving with a straight razor, as shown in the video, starts from the temple line, then the blade descends to the cheek (Fig. 2, I-1). The tool is held in the first way. Before starting, it is worth removing the foam from the temple a little (in order to put the blade exactly on its edging). In the temple area, skin tightening and hair shaving are carried out simultaneously. With light manipulations of the hand, the first couple of centimeters are shaved down. Further, the "fear" moves to the lower jaw. Hair cutting must be accompanied by skin tightening. The finger should be 1-2 centimeters from the "fear".

In the middle of the cheek, the blade is slightly turned towards the lobe, and the “fear” moves towards the jaw (Fig. 2, I-2). It happens that in the corner of the jaw the hairs grow in different directions, in this case the blade should be placed so that it shaves along the growth.

Having reached the bend of the jaw, the instrument is turned and continue moving down to the neck. In this place, it is especially important to carefully cut off the vegetation near the ear. Often there is a bulge or small folds of skin that are easy enough to hit with a blade and cut yourself. How to shave with a dangerous razor so as not to get injured? thumb slightly move the ear to the side, if there are no folds, then when working near the ear, you still need to close it with your hand a little.

Next, the tool is taken in the third way. "Warning" is placed in the middle of the cheek, so that its end lies below the cheekbone. So they shave, heading towards the lips. At the same time, passing along the jaw bulge and capturing a small part of the face in the area of the mustache (Fig. 2, III-3). Approaching the corner of the mouth, the toe of the "fear" should be lowered a little lower, so that in the end it coincides with the line of the mouth. Further, the blade passes in the area of the so-called undercoats (hair that grows near the lower lip). It is not always possible to shave them off the first time, as they are in a small depression. In this case, a simple technique will help: you need to slightly raise this place with your tongue. A bulge will form, which will be easy to shave off. How to do this while shaving with a straight razor is shown in. In the process, you always need to help yourself with the muscles of the face and tongue. This greatly facilitates shaving and saves from injury.

In the third way, the vegetation is cut to the center of the chin, until the tip of the “fear” and the nose are in one line (it’s even better to take the razor a little further than this line). On this part of the face, you should be especially careful: the chin is difficult to shave, so you need to keep the "fear" correctly.

Then the instrument is taken using the method No. 2 or No. 3 and the hair is cut from the chin to the lip (Fig. 2, II–III–4). Here you should be extremely careful and stop the "fear" in time. Otherwise, the blade will cut into the lower lip, which has a small protrusion. There are several areas on the face that are prone to injury: Adam's apple, ear and lips. In these places, you should shave with special attention.

The next step is to shave your mustache. This is a difficult area: here the hair grows from top to bottom and, according to the rules of shaving, the blade should fall from the nose to upper lip. But this is difficult to do, because the area of \u200b\u200bthe skin is too small. And there is also a high probability of hurting the lip and leaving a cut. How to shave with a dangerous razor in this case? Very simple. A person who shaves himself can help himself a little with facial muscles and make the skin where necessary, a little wider and smoother. Or pull the tip of the nose with your hand, in which case the skin will also stretch and become even.

In the area of \u200b\u200bthe mustache, "fear" is kept in the first way. The hair is cut off with light and short manipulations of the instrument (Fig. 2, I–5).

The side part of the mustache is shaved from right to left (Fig. 2, III–6). Only the tip of the razor is involved in the work. The instrument is held in a third way. The blade is led to the middle of the mustache, if you shave higher, you can injure the upper lip.

Then the vegetation is cut from the chin to the middle of the jaw (Fig. 2, I-7). "Opaska" is kept in the first way. Here the skin is stretched a little differently than usual: this time the skin is stretched in two directions. This is easy to do with two fingers. One is on the chin, and the second is on the jaw, the “fear” is between them. It should be borne in mind that in this case the skin becomes less elastic, which means that the risk of injury increases. Therefore, at this stage, you need to work with the tool easily, without pressure and observe the angle of hair trimming. Passing through this area, you should remove the hair a little lower than the jaw bone.

The final step in shaving this part of the face is the neck (Fig. 2, I–8:10). Here it is worth paying increased attention to the skin in the region of the Adam's apple, where cuts often occur. To avoid them, the following trick is used: the skin from the Adam's apple is pulled a little to the side and shaved there. The tool is held in the second way.

Shaving "on the hair", you should monitor the quality of work. The face should be clean, without "bushes" of hair and unshaven areas.

How to shave the left side of the face according to height

The tool is taken in the first way. The “fear” sock is placed so that the hands do not interfere with the review. Shaving with a dangerous razor (this can be seen in the video) starts from the temple (Fig. 3, I-1). First, shave off 20-30 mm from the edging line. It is important that the cut lines on both sides are at the same level. To do this, it is convenient to navigate along the conditional line of the eyes. The blade should lie on the temple approximately parallel to this landmark. From the temple, "fear" descends down to the cheek.

Next, you should shave from the middle of the cheek down to the chin (Fig. 3, II-2). "Warning" is set slightly below the cheekbone so that the cutting edge creates a conditional line from the eye to the earlobe. Along the path of the razor, the hair is shaved in the area of the whiskers and the lower part of the left mustache. "Warning" should be kept in the second way. If the blade cannot cover the entire soaped surface at once, then after the first pass with the razor, the procedure should be repeated, capturing the soaped areas.

During this shaving step, half of the mustache is shaved off. But sometimes this is not enough, and you need to help yourself by lifting the tip of the nose and removing the vegetation (Fig. 3, I-3). In this case, the first method of holding the razor is used.

Based on the correct shaving technique with a straight razor, the next step is to trim the remaining hair in the mustache area. This is done from left to right with small advances of the razor. Vegetation is cut from the side in the direction of its growth. "Opaska" is kept in the second way (Fig. 3, II-4).

Then the blade is placed near the lobe and the vegetation is removed to the chin (Fig. 3, II-5). The skin is stretched diagonally - up and to the ear. If the face is thin, then shaving below the jaw, the skin is pulled only up.

If during the first approach it is not possible to remove the hair over the entire width of the area, then the procedure should be repeated again, but already go through those places where the soap "islands" remain.

Working with the right side of the face, it is possible to almost completely shave off the area from the top of the chin to the lip. But if there are unremoved hairs, then now is the time to remove them. "Opaska" is taken by method No. 2 or No. 3 and the vegetation is removed (Fig. 3, II–III–6).

The next step is to shave the neck. First, they pass with a blade from the chin to the Adam's apple, bypassing it on the left side. You can’t shave the Adam’s apple itself, as mentioned above, it threatens with cuts. It is necessary to pull the skin to the side and only then remove the hair. Then the rest of the neck is shaved. In one approach, a narrow strip of vegetation should be shaved off (Fig. 3, I–8:10), the razor is placed in the lower part of the jaw and carried until the end of the hairline. "Opaska" is kept in the first way.

Sometimes the hair at the very bottom of the neck grows in the opposite direction - from the bottom up. How to shave with a dangerous razor here: you need to change the direction of the tool, while you need to take it with the second trick.

How to shave the right side of the face against the height

Re-shave is necessary to shave off the remnants of hair that remained after the first stage of the procedure. And also to make the skin perfectly smooth and clean-shaven.

Before you shave again, be sure to lather your face again. For people whose bristles are not too hard, you can simply moisten your face with warm water. But such a procedure must be done necessarily.

When shaving with a dangerous razor, as follows from the video, the "fear" moves against the growth of vegetation. Hair removal starts from the neck and ends near the temples. Work on the right side of the face is done only in the third way. When shaving the stubble, the skin is also pulled in the opposite direction of the razor (Fig. 4).

So, first you should go through the right side of the neck with a razor (the one below the ear) from the bottom up, then you need to smoothly move to the cheek. For people with a thin face the best place there will be a place for the transition near the ear, around the corner of the lower jaw. Those who have a full face can go anywhere.

Having finished work on the cheek, the razor rises to the temple. Further, again from the cheek, the "fear" moves to the chin. At the same time, the bristles of the lower part of the right mustache and in the region of the corner of the mouth are removed.

At the end of the procedure, you need to shave off the stubble on the neck. As at the very beginning, the tool should move up, from the Adam's apple to the very chin.

How to shave the left side of the face against the height

This part of the face is also re-lathered or moistened with warm water. The left side is shaved only in the second way.

The sequence of passing through the "fear" is similar to shaving the right side (Fig. 5). First, from the neck, the blade is led up, near the lobe, they bend around the corner of the jaw and go to the temple. Further from the middle of the cheek, the razor is led to the chin. Then the left mustache is shaved, the vegetation in the area of \u200b\u200bthe corner of the mouth and the top of the chin. In conclusion, the razor passes the neck from the bottom - up, to the jawbone.

If two parts of the face are shaved, the final touch remains - the repeated removal of hair above and below the lips. In the area of the mustache, the “fear” moves “along the hair”, that is, from top to bottom. Under the lip - shaved from the bottom up. During the procedure, the razor is held in the second way.

If, after repeated shaving, “islands” of the hairline still remain, then they are soaped again and cut off against hair growth.

From the article above, it became clear how to shave with a dangerous razor. To do it right, get smooth, clean-shaven skin and not get injured, you should remember the basic rules:

learn the basic ways of holding a tool in your hand;
remove hair only at a certain angle;
the blade should always be as sharp as possible;
first walk the tool in the direction of hair growth, and then in the opposite direction.

The straight razor is an open-handled blade that was widely used before the invention of safety razors. The use of such a razor requires care to reduce the risk of cuts. To shave, first of all, you need to moisten your face with hot water and apply soap suds to it with a shaving brush. Then you should take the razor, apply it to the skin at an angle and begin to shave with short, controlled movements of the blade. You will have to run the razor over your face two or three times, and then remember to sharpen it for later use. By learning how to use a straight razor, you will be able to shave your face more smoothly than with any other safety razor.

Steps

Part 1

Applying soap suds to the face

Moisten your face with hot water. Take a hot shower and let the water run over your face for about five minutes. This will open up your pores and soften your facial hair, which will make your next shave much easier. You can also apply a wet hot towel to your face, as barbers did to their clients. Simply dampen a small towel with hot water and hold it against your face until it cools down.

Rub shaving oil into your skin. good oil for shaving can facilitate subsequent shaving. Look for ready-made shaving products that contain natural oils e.g. jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil or sunflower oil. These types of oils help soften the hairs and do not interfere with the movement of the razor.

Wet the brush with hot water. Fill a bowl or mug with hot water. The water must be hot to soften the brush bristles. Let the brush soak in water for one or two minutes. Then take it out of the water and with a sharp movement of the wrist, shake off excess water from the shaving brush.

The highest quality shaving brushes are made using badger hair. Boar bristle brushes are cheaper, and synthetic brushes are considered the lowest quality.
Of course, soap foam can be applied to the face and hands, but it will be much more convenient to work with a shaving brush.

Fill a mug with shaving cream or soap suds. Empty the previously used water from the mug or bowl. Put some shaving cream or a whole cap of soap suds in it. Shaving soap is a cheaper option and is made with a mixture of fatty vegetable oils and glycerin. Shaving cream is similar in functionality to soap, while it is better to choose the cream that contains such essential oils like jojoba oil or coconut oil.
- Refrain from using regular shaving gels and foams. Although they can also be used, they will not give you the same close shave as good shaving soaps and creams.
Beat the foam with a brush. Place the wet shaving brush into the mug. Beat them with soap suds or cream. The longer you beat the product used, the thicker the foam will become.

Apply the whipped foam to the regrown stubble on your face. Scoop up the foam with a brush. in a circular motion shaving brush spread the foam over the entire area that needs to be shaved, making sure not to miss a single hair. Once the face is covered with a sufficient amount of foam, remove excess foam from the face with a few additional strokes of the shaving brush.

Part 2
Shaving with straight razor
1. Pinch the neck of the razor between your thumb and the next three fingers. Despite the presence of a wooden or plastic handle on the razor, you do not need to take it. Instead, slide your thumb under the neck of the razor (which connects the blade to the handle). In this case, the index, middle and ring fingers should be located on the other side of the neck. Finally, the little finger should be applied to the shank of the razor sticking out of the handle on the opposite side of the neck of the razor.
  - This is the basic way a razor is gripped and many people adjust it over time for greater comfort and better razor control.
2. Place the blade against the skin at a 30° angle. The blade must not be applied either parallel to or perpendicular to the skin. It should be directed towards the skin at a slight angle. In this case, the protruding handle of the razor should be somewhere near your nose.
  
  Stretch the skin of the face with the second hand. Start on one side of the face. With your free hand, pull the skin here to straighten and smooth it. Do this for every area you shave for a closer shave with fewer accidental cuts.
  
  Shave your cheeks in the direction of hair growth. Holding the razor at the right angle, start shaving from the top of your cheek. Since the hair will grow downwards here, also move down towards the lower jaw and chin. Work gently with smooth, controlled downward strokes of the razor. Rinse the blade and pick up where you left off. Rinse your razor after each shave. Shave your face on both sides.
  - Even experienced straight razor users make mistakes sometimes. At the very beginning, you will definitely cut. Do not despair. If you cut yourself, press the skin in this place for several minutes or treat the cut with a hemostatic powder.
3. Shave your chin and upper lip. The easiest way is to shave the chin, continuing to move from the cheeks. The skin in this area is easy to cut, so work in short, gentle strokes towards the bottom of the chin. Tighten your lips as you shave the area around them.
  
  Shave your neck and under your jaw. All other areas are shaved in the same way as the cheeks. Tilt your head back, pull your lower jaw up with your free hand and begin to shave the submandibular area with a downward stroke of the razor. After shaving the skin directly under the jaw, go down to the neck.
  
  Apply the foam again to the face and go over it a second time with a razor already across the direction of hair growth. This time the razor will move from one side to the other. The pressure on the razor is no longer as hard as before. Move from the ears to the center of the face. Rinse your razor after every stroke across your face.
  - If you're just learning how to shave, consider having your second pass across your face also consist of downward strokes of the razor. This will help you get used to holding the razor without creating additional risk of cuts.
4. Lather again on your face and shave in the opposite direction of hair growth. Wash your face with hot water again and apply cream or soap suds to your face. The third pass with the razor across the face will provide the smoothest shave. Start work from the bottom of the neck. Be extremely careful not to cut yourself.
  
  Rinse your face with cold water after shaving. Cold water moisturizes the skin and closes the pores. You can also use an aftershave lotion or balm that contains hazel or bay water to relieve irritation. Apply with a tapping motion rather than rubbing into the skin.
  
  Wipe your razor dry. Wipe the razor blade with a soft cloth or toilet paper. It is important to remove all moisture from the blade so that it does not rust. Keep your razor away from moisture and steam.
  - If you want to store your razor for a long time, pre-lubricate it with an oil, such as camellia oil.
  Part 3
  Using a Straight Razor Straightening Strap
  Hang the belt on furniture. The straight razor strap will have a hook for attaching to a stable surface such as a headboard or bathroom cabinet handle. After each shave or sharpening, the razor needs to be straightened on the belt. Editing allows you to smooth the edges of the blade for a more comfortable shave.
  - The canvas side of the belt is well suited for dressing the razor blade between shaves. Use the leather side of the belt after sharpening.
5. Attach the razor blade to the end of the belt farthest from you. Pull the belt tight with your free hand. Bring the razor blade to the end of the belt farthest from you. Hold the razor by the neck with the sharp edge away from you.
  
  Run the blade along the belt towards you. Make sure the strap is taut, otherwise you'll end up with a dull razor. Run the blade along the entire length of the belt, pressing it against the belt. Apply light pressure to the razor and do not remove it from the belt.
  
  Flip the razor over and run it backwards over the belt. Roll the razor over the blunt edge of the blade to the other side. Do not turn the razor over the sharp edge or touch the belt with it. The sharp edge of the blade should now be facing you. Run the razor over the belt in the other direction in the same way as you did before.
  
  Repeat the above steps until you straighten the blade. Usually it is required to pass the razor over the belt about 30 times, or 15 times in both directions. Know that it is impossible to overdo it when dressing a blade on a belt. At the very beginning, move slowly and carefully. As you develop the skill, you will start to do it faster and you will realize that dressing the blade on the belt takes almost no of your time.
  
  Part 4
  Razor sharpening
  Wipe and oil the whetstone. First, wipe the whetstone with a towel to remove any residual dirt from it. Then lubricate the stone with cold water, oil or shaving cream. This will protect it from overheating and chipping off particles that could damage the razor blade.