Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Building a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR WAY (for beginners)

Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since we have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - new the easy way(I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for building a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all sorts of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I will not give you a single ready-made pattern!

I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character lies in the fact ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me, it is.

Yes- sewing by yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes yourself.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacies of the numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WON'T TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch fear and make a girl doubt her own abilities, who really wants to make a dress- But not very friendly school years with geometry and drawing. Even I - who loves both of these school subjects - beat around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long does it take to draw this, and you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in the letters ... ".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece of it from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering and design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No obscure formulas
• No messy calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

Well, how? Have I removed a bit of your concerns?

I now relax - we will not start drawing right now. To begin with, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get acquainted, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, it is a cast from your body. This is your personal imprint. Any thing sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit perfectly on YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All-all models of dresses - are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove to you with an example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits perfectly on the figure). Dress made according to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual pattern-base. You see, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any, any) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free topic.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day the fashion designer thought...“But what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - fig. below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping opposite triangles (red outlines - fig. below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a base pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just a lot of fantasy.

By the way, since we're talking about round yoke- on this site there is already one of my articles on the creation and

And another fashion designer thought: “But what if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the line of the shoulder longer so that it hangs on the arm. And finally born new model(photo below) - also very beautiful. And very simple.

You can do that too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist.

That is why I don't want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (such as “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point ...” - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you chuechka. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. And learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any, even intricately tailored, dress.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk along the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel the joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the wise man said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us.

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - a base pattern. Tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem old and familiar to you simple pattern- like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what are these halves for, and where to apply them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful specimen - below - in the photo black and white dress our halves are very clearly visible - both half of the back and half of the front. So to speak - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in the Potnovsky language, the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these very shelves of the front and back. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two obscure words: TRUCK And ARMHOLE.

Of course, you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, get acquainted - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size an armhole that fits you—when the armhole doesn't pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains admissible minimum size armholes. You can model the armhole to your taste, any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be less than on the base pattern. That is, an armhole on a pattern basis - These are the limits beyond which your imagination should not intercede.

Your model armhole can be arbitrarily larger - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. Here is a rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the tucks.

BACK PATCHES - shoulder darts + waist darts

Here in the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder tuck on this dress. And on many dresses, too, it is not. Because for convenience and beauty, this tuck is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the tuck. And the extra fabric cut off in a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are optional if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next, let's get to know… HALF FRONT darts

Oh, you could write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain it more clearly - what it is for and what laws it lives by. I thought and thought ... and came up with.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, in front adult girl no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. The tuck on the shoulder of the front gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example - this flat circle of cardboard, with the help of a tuck, will now become convex.

And here is how the chest tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You noticed that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the point of the tuck. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw a tuck for the chest, the tip of our tuck will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you measured a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely warped on your chest - this is because the tuck in the dress was directed with its tip past top of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. Not under your breast shape, this product was cut at the factory.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest tuck is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. It's made for beauty. The tuck on the shoulder is more conspicuous, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest tuck on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the tuck from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest tuck from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?))) Whether there will be more ... We continue our walk along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the line of the chest. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We'll sew it with you. Don't even hesitate)

The chest line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate it when drawing a base pattern, because:

• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck of the back on the chest line.
• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
• We know that the shoulder tuck is the front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I am all these simple rules ladies when we start to draw. And for now, I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the line of the chest (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these alphanumeric dots).

As you can see, there are a lot!! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

AND WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASIS? - you ask

And we will begin to sew according to the pattern-base of TOPS. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not just dresses?". I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle, so to be continued)))

Good luck with your sewing!

A laconic sheath dress came into fashion at the beginning of the last century and has not left the ladies' wardrobe since then. Its main feature is the cut, "outlining" the figure and tapering down. "Cases" most often have a rounded neckline and do not have sleeves. However, over the long years of its existence, the dress has changed and become more practical. So, today the style of a sheath dress with a sleeve is especially popular, the pattern of which is presented in this article. Such a model, if you make friends with the appropriate accessories and shoes, is equally well suited for work, evening out and everyday wear. By the way, "cases" were the favorite outfits of such famous women as Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy.

In addition, the sheath dress is basic pattern, on which in the future you can model other versions of dresses. Today I propose to study how to build a dress pattern according to the figure, as well as ready-made patterns and several drawings with calculations.

How to build a sheath dress pattern

If you decide to build a dress pattern yourself, then below you can enlarge the images with a detailed guide from the book "Cutting and sewing at home".

Ready-made patterns of sheath dress

Well, if you don’t have the desire to mess around with pattern modeling, I suggest downloading ready-made versions of dresses with and without sleeves. Dimensions are according to European table sizes (see below).

I also offer another version of a sleeveless sheath dress with a round yoke. This pattern comes in 3 sizes - 38, 40 and 42.

And a few more drawings of patterns for a sheath dress with ready-made calculations (the sizes in the photo caption are indicated according to the size table above):

Pattern drawing of a sheath dress (according to the table of sizes 40 size)

Where else can I get a sheath dress pattern

The wonderful RedCafe program has a basic set of patterns. By choosing a dress model, you can build a pattern for your individual parameters. I wrote more about how to use the RedCafe clothing editor.

How to sew a sheath dress: a quick guide

After your pattern is ready, you can safely transfer it to the fabric and start sewing!

What will be required:

• Dress fabric 2 m * 1.5 m;
• Lining fabric for 1.4*1.4m;
• One hidden lightning
• Specialist. foot for a sewing machine.

Allowances:

Leave 1.5 cm for allowances for all parts, including the lining details. Do not forget to add 4 cm for the bottom hem as well.

Step by step workflow:

Step 1. Sew tucks on the front and back.

Step 2. Sew the zipper along the middle sections of the back. Next, sew the middle seam from the top end of the slit to the zipper.

Step 3. Sew shoulder and side seams.

Step 4. Sew on the lining of the tuck. Sew the middle seam along the back of the lining, starting from the bottom end of the zipper opening and down to the bottom. Sew the lining to the dress.

Step 5. Sew darts on the sleeves. Sew the seams on the sleeves. Iron the allowances, designed to hem the bottom of the sleeves inside out and sew by hand.

Step 6 Stitch in the sleeves. Iron the stitching seam allowances along their edges.

Step 7 Iron the hem allowance inside out and sew by hand. Perform a bottom hem on the lining. Please note that the lining should be 2 cm shorter than the sheath dress itself.

This section is dedicated to women with magnificent forms. We will consider and learn how to build patterns using several methods that are used when sewing clothes for obese women. Here, as in previous lessons, we use step by step instructions building drawings of the base of the dress, sleeves, etc.

As an example, in the first option, we will take measurements that correspond to size 54 (bust circumference 108cm), so to speak, for women of medium splendor. In the second option, we use, as an example, measurements corresponding to size 60 (bust circumference 120cm), for women with more magnificent forms. In both cases, we build patterns for the base of the dress. semiadjacent silhouette, in accordance with this, we take into account the allowance for a free fit along the lines of the chest, waist and hips.

You take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you will sew a dress.

In any case, we recommend that after building a drawing and making a pattern, check it on something simple. For example, sew a dressing gown from cheap fabric. If you are not at all sure, use an old sheet or another thing that has served its age for sewing.

As a parting word: I wish you courage in your endeavors, perseverance, perseverance and patience in achieving your goal. Step by step, moving forward, you will overcome the path to perfection.

We use exactly step by step drawing instructions to demonstrate and convince you that in fact everything is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. When you look at the finished drawing of the base pattern and have not encountered anything like this before, you may get the impression that all this is incredibly difficult and almost impossible. However, I note that the impossible is most often just something that we have not yet tried to do. Good luck!

SEMI-FITTING DRESS FOR WOMEN OF MIDDLE COMPLETENESS (for example, size 54)

To build a pattern drawing, you need to take the following measurements:

In order to take measurements more accurately, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is well defined when the head is tilted, as well as the shoulder line at the base of the neck and at the junction of the arm with the shoulder. Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a point on the body, use a felt-tip pen, which is easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after the end of this procedure.

It is good if the person you are taking measurements from is wearing thin dress, and better - only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand straight, without tension, i.e. maintain your normal posture. That is what I draw your attention to. Because, often a woman, when taking measurements or trying on, especially if she sees her reflection in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good desire, but when taking measurements, it can distort the real state of things. And a well-fitting dress on fitting, in ordinary life, will not be as comfortable as we would like, and as it should be.

Therefore, taking into account the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract him with a peaceful conversation, tie a string around his waist, mark the starting points and proceed to measurements.

There are some differences between the proposed methods. in the methods of taking measurements, in the number of measurements, in the name of the measurements, etc. In this technique, the procedure for taking measurements is as follows:

Name of measurements and symbols	cm	Taking measurements
Product length (Di)		Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length.
Armhole depth (Gpr)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to a horizontal line drawn with a centimeter through the armpits.
Back length to waist (Dst)		Measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the prominence of the shoulder blades. To do this, a thin ruler can be attached to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, the centimeter tape should pass over the ruler.
Back width (W)		Measure horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners armpits.
Half neck (Ssh)		The measuring tape should run along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebrae, in front of the jugular cavity (depression).
Semi-girth of the chest 1st (СгI)		The centimeter tape runs horizontally, behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front above the base of the chest.
Half bust 2nd (CrII)		The centimeter tape runs horizontally behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front along the protruding points of the chest.
Groove opening size (Brv)		Measured vertically. It is removed simultaneously with the measurements of the half-girths of the chest. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point.
Waist (St)		Measure horizontally at the narrowest point.
Half hips (Sat)		Measured horizontally, behind the protruding points of the buttocks, in front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen.
Root height (Br)		Measure along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
Back shoulder height (Vps)		Measure along the back from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Armhole Width (Spr)		It is measured horizontally under the arm: from the place of articulation of the arm with the body from the back side to the articulation of the arm with the body from the front side. It can be calculated using a ruler located horizontally in the armpit.
Side length (db)		Measure from the back side from the top edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line.
Shoulder length (Dp)		Measure along the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder.
Chest Height (Hg)		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.
Front Shoulder Height (RH)		Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Front length to waist (dpt)		Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line.
Center of the chest (Cg)		Measure horizontally between the most protruding points of the chest.
Front Width (W)		Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the corners of the armpits.
Width of the front at the protruding points of the chest (ShpII) Control measurement		It is measured horizontally between the corners of the armpits at the most protruding points of the chest.
Sleeve length (dr)		It is measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the desired length.
Sleeve length to elbow (DRL)		Measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the elbow.
Arm circumference (Op)		Measured horizontally at the fullest upper part of the arm (at armpit level).
Girth of the wrist (hand) Oz		Measured at the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.
Free fit allowances For a free fit, add 4-5 cm to the measurement of the second half-girth of the chest Cr II, to the measure of the half-girth of the hips Sat - 3 cm and to the measure of the half-girth of the waist St - 2 cm.

Let's start building.

We draw in the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper a right angle with a vertex at a point R(Fig. 1).

Dress length.

From the point P down we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the dress Di(100 cm) and put a point H.

Armhole depth.

From the point P down we put off the taken measure of the depth of the armhole ( Gpr\u003d 21 cm) and put a point G.

Waistline.

From the point P down, we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the back to the waist (Dst=39 cm) and put a dot T.

Hip line.

from point T down is usually delayed 18 - 19 cm. We will take the average 18,5 see and put an end B.

From points G, T, B and H to the left at a right angle we draw horizontal lines: the depths of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Back width.

From point G to the left, we postpone the measured back width Shs(19.5) plus 0,5 cm (increase in free fit) and put an end to G1:

GG1 \u003d Ws + 0.5 \u003d 19.5 + 0.5 \u003d 20 cm.

Distance to the sideline.

from point G1 to the left we set aside half of the taken measurement of the width of the armhole Shpr (12.5) minus 1 see and point G2:

G1 G2 \u003d Spr: 2 - 1 \u003d (12.5: 2) -1 \u003d 5.25 cm.

from point G2 draw a straight line down and put points at its intersection with the lines of the waist and hips T2 and B1.

Root width.

from point R postpone to the left 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh(19cm) plus 1 cm and put a point P1:

PP1 \u003d 1/3 Ssh +1 = 19:3+1=7,3 cm.

Root height.

From point P1 upwards, we set aside the difference between the measurements of the height of the sprout Wr(41cm) and back length to waist Dst (39cm) and put a point R2:

P1P2 \u003d Vr - Dst \u003d 41 - 39 \u003d 2 cm.

points R And R2 connect with a concave smooth curve. We get the line of the neck of the back (line of the sprout).

Back height.

from point T1 up we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the shoulder of the back WPS(36 cm) and put a dot P.

from point G1 up put off 1/3 segment distance G1P and put a point ABOUT. Compasses from a point ABOUT draw to the left through the point P arc.

Shoulder length.

From the point P2 as from the center, with a radius equal to 15cm(taken measurement of shoulder length Dp (13cm) plus 2cm on the tuck), we draw an arc to the intersection with the previously constructed arc (see Fig. 12).

Put a point at the intersection of two arcs P1.

R2 P1 =13+2=15cm.

points R2 And P1 connect.

Connecting the dots P1, O and G2 smooth curve, as shown in Figure 12, we complete the construction back openings.

Back shoulder tuck.

from point R2 left on the line R2 P1 set aside 1/3 of the measured shoulder length Dp and set point B:

P2B=13:3=4.3cm.

Draw a vertical line down from point B 8 cm and put point B1.

from point IN left along the line R2P1 postpone 2 cm and put a point AT 2.

From a point IN 1 through a point AT 2 draw a line long 8 cm and put a point AT 3.

points V3P1 connect with a straight line and get back shoulder line.

Lateral back line.

from point T2 put aside to the right 2 cm and put a point T3.

points T3 And G2 connect.

Waistline shaping.

from point T3 up put off 1 cm and put a point T4, points T4 And T connect with a smooth curve (see Fig. 16).

from point B1 postpone to the left 1/2 C6 (60+3=63 cm) and second bust CrII with an added free fit (54+4=58cm) and put a point B2:

B1, B2 \u003d (63-58): 2 \u003d 2.5 cm.

points G4 And B2 connect with a smooth curve.

Back bottom width.

from point H to the left we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the back along the hip line (see the drawing, this is the distance BB2) plus 2-3 cm and put a point H1.

points H1 And B2 connect with a straight line.

from point H1 up put off 1cm and put a point H2.

points H2 And H connect with a smooth curve.

Back tuck.

Distance YG1 G3.

from point G3 draw a vertical line down and put a dot at the intersection of it with the waistline T5, with a line of hips - a point B3.

from point G3 put down 4 cm and put a point AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3 cm and put a point B4.

Depth of tuck.

from point T5 to the right and to the left along the waist line, lay off along 1 cm and put points T6 And T7 AT 4 And B4(see fig. 20).

Back construction completed.

Before

back hem line HH1 let's continue to the left.

from point H1 postpone approximately 45-50 cm and put a point H3.

From a point H3 draw a vertical line up.

From points G2, T2, B2 draw horizontal lines to the left until they intersect with the vertical.

The points of intersection with the vertical line are denoted accordingly G4, T8, B5.

Front width.

from point G4 to the right we postpone the taken measurement of the semicircumference of the chest second CrII with an added free fit (54 + 4) minus the width of the back with an increase (according to the drawing ГГ1 = 20 cm) and minus armhole width (measurement taken 12.5 cm) and put a point G5:

Г4Г5=58-20-12.5=25.5cm.

Through the dot G5 draw a vertical line down, at the intersection of which with the waist line we put a point T9.

Distance to the sideline. from point G5 to the right, set aside half the width of the armhole Spr(12.5) plus 1 cm and put a point G6:

Г5Г6 \u003d 12.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 7.25 cm.

from point G6 draw a vertical line down and put dots at its intersection with the horizontal lines T10 and B6.

Front height.

from point T8 up we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist Dpt (44 cm) and put a point P3

Neck width.

from point P3 swipe to the right horizontal line and put aside on it 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh!(19cm) plus 1 cm and put a point R4:

R3 R4 \u003d 19: 3 + 1 \u003d 7.3 cm.

Neck depth.

from point P3 put down 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh (19cm) plus 1.5 cm and put a point P5:

Р3Р5 \u003d 19: 3 + 1.5 \u003d 7.8 cm.

points R4 And P5 connect a straight line, divide it in half and mark the middle with a dot O1.

from point O1 lay down at a right angle 1.25 cm and put a point 02 .

points P5, 02 and P4 connect with a smooth curve and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

Center of the chest.

from point G4 to the right we postpone the taken measurement of the center of the chest CG (11 cm) and put a point G7.

points R4 And G7 connect.

Chest height.

from point R4 down, extending the line Р4Г7, we postpone the taken measurement of chest height Vg (29.5 cm) and put a point C.

End of tuck.

Along the same line from the point C up put off 2.5 cm and put a point C 1.

At this point, the chest tuck ends.

The size of the tuck solution.

from point C upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the size of the solution of the tuck Vrv (12 cm) and put a point U.

From a point C, as from the center, through a point At draw an arc to the right.

Opening of the tuck.

from point At on the drawn arc, we set aside the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII (54cm) and semi-girth of the chest of the first CgI (49cm) and put a point U1.

YU1 \u003d CrII - CrI \u003d 54 - 49 \u003d 5cm

This construction can be done using a compass. From a point At, as from the center, radius 5cm draw an arc until it intersects with the previously constructed arc.

Mark the point of intersection U1.

through dots C1 and U1 draw a straight line, continuing it up by an amount that is equal to the distance C1R4 and put a point P2:

C1P2 = C1R4.

Front shoulder height.

On a straight line T9G5, extending it upwards, from the point T9 we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the shoulder of the front runway (35 cm) and put a point P3.

Auxiliary armhole point.

from point G5 up put off 1/4 distances G5P3 (4.5 cm) and put a point 03 . Dot 0 3 - check Point. When wetting the sleeve into the armhole, it connects to the mark on the sleeve at the point ABOUT

From a point 0 3 circle through a point P3 draw an arc to the right.

Shoulder length.

From a point P2 , as from the center, with a radius equal to measured shoulder length Dpl, (in our case 13cm) draw an arc to the intersection with the previously constructed arc and put a point P4 .

points P4 , 0 3 And G6 we connect with a smooth curve, thereby completing the construction of the armhole in front .

Lateral front line.

from point T10 postpone to the left 1.5 cm and put a point T11.

points G6 and T11 connect with a straight line.

Waistline shaping.

from point T11 up put off 1 cm and put a point T12.

points T8 and T12 connect with a smooth curve.

Formation of the lateral line in the thigh area.

from point B6 put aside to the right 1/2 difference between hip measurements Sat with an added free fit (60+3=63 cm) and second bust CrII with an added free fit (54+4=58cm) and put a point B7:

B6 B7 \u003d (63-58): 2 \u003d 2.5 cm.

points T12 and B7 connect with a smooth curve.

Bottom front width.

from point H3 to the right, set aside a value that is equal to the width of the front along the hip line (see the drawing, this is the distance B5B7), plus 2-3 cm and put a point H4. points B7 And H4 connect with a straight line.

from point H4 up put off 1 cm and put a point H5.

Front extension.

from point H3 put down 2 cm and put a point H6. points H6 and H5 connect with a smooth curve.

Construction of a tuck.

Distance G7G5 divide in half and put a dot G8. from point G8 down we draw a vertical line, and at the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips we put points T13 and B8. from point G8 put down 6 cm, and from the point B8 up - 2 cm and put points B5 and B9.

Groove depth.

from point T13 right and left put aside 1.25 cm and put points T14 and T15, which we connect with points B5 and B9. (See Fig.42)

Construction completed.

But before you start cutting, do not be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the main measurements again. Pay special attention to the waist circumference, since in this technique, when constructing darts along the waist line, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If during the check you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (namely in the waist circumferences), they can be easily eliminated by reducing or increasing the opening of the tucks along the waist line.

This is a pattern drawing for the base of a dress - a guide to creating a wide variety of models. Before proceeding with modeling, it is necessary to check the pattern, “put” it on the figure, and, if necessary, make adjustments. And only after full confidence that everything is in order, you can safely begin to create.

And remember, the road will be mastered by the walking one!

I sincerely wish you success!

Admin 2017-02-25 at 10:59 pm

In this section, I published ready-made women's patterns that have been used in my work. They are tested and I hope they will be useful to you too. When I sewed to order, I accumulated great amount patterns. I began to digitize them to save space in the apartment. And now I'm sharing some patterns with you.

Then I started to build pattern drawings in Valentina, Optitex, AutoCAD, RedCafe, Assol. But in the end I chose the free Valentina program. And now I am building parametric drawings of the bases. Then I change the measurements in the program and print out any basis in 5 minutes. You, too, can make tremendous progress in this matter if you study Valentina. It's free and easy to use.

The basic basis of the dress

Pattern-basis of a dress of an adjacent silhouette with a set-in sleeve. The basis allows you to model a variety of styles of dresses, jackets, shirts. The pattern of a single-seam set-in sleeve is in a separate PDF file. Patterns are designed for figures, the dimensional characteristics of which are indicated below. Before cutting, adjust, if necessary, the pattern to fit your measurements. Also, the base has the necessary allowances for freedom of fitting, used when sewing an adjacent dress.

Total bust increase: 3 cm. Total waist increase: 5 cm. Total hip increase: 5 cm.

Dress length on the back: 100 cm (from the 7th cervical vertebra down)

The main parameters of the pattern:

Cr 42 p = Ob 46. Cr 44 p = Ob 48. Cr 46 p = Ob 50. Cr 48 p = Ob 52. Cr 50 p = Ob 54. Cr 52 p = Ob 54. Cr 54 p = Ob 56. Cr 56 p \u003d About 58. Cr 58 p \u003d About 60. Cr 60 p \u003d About 62.

All patterns are divided into 2 groups - sizes 42-50, sizes 52-60. You need to download a pattern with your size in the group and after gluing the sheets, just cut your own.

Download patterns:

Coat - cape

Blouse

Women's blouse 46 size. Height 168, og-92, from 74, about 98.

Back length approx. 70 cm

You will need: Fabric 2.30 m wide 140 cm; thin adhesive interlining; 10 buttons for sewing. Recommended Fabrics: Double face fabrics only.

Pattern: Print pattern details. Detail 2 reshoot twice. Of these, cut one piece for the right front strap along the drawn seam line. The label of the bottom button is the same for all sizes.

Allowances: On the seams and along the cuts - 1.5 cm, along the cuts of the sides and necks of the shelves - 1 cm, along the cuts of the planks - 1 cm, along the cuts of the collar - 1 cm, for the hem of the bottom - 2 cm.

1- Shelf 2 parts.

2- Plank right shelf 1piece

Left shelf plank 1 piece

3-Back with a fold

b) collar frill 87 cm long and 13 cm wide, including allowances;

c) 2 sleeve frills, 60 cm long and 15 cm wide, including allowances;

d) 2 bias tapes for edging sleeve slits 21 cm long and 3 cm wide, including allowances.

Blouse size 44 height-168, og-88, from-70, about-94

Back length approx. 53 cm

You will need: Poplin 1.30 m wide 150 cm; pad flap; 4 flat buttons.

Print pattern details.

Allowances: For seams and cuts - 1.5 cm, for hem hem - 2 cm.

21- Shelf with one-piece collar 2 parts

22- Back with fold 1x a)

2 bias tapes for edging sleeves 44 cm long and 4 cm wide, including allowances.

Gasket: to duplicate the loops on the shelves, iron to the facings along a small seam.

Women's leather jacket, size 46

Measurements: height 168, og-92, from 74, about-98.

Back length approx. 57 cm.

Blouse

size 46: height-168, bust-92, waist-74, hips-98.

size 50: height-168, bust-100, waist-82, hips-106.

Women's jacket

Size 46. Height 168, bust 92 cm, waist 74 cm, hips 98 cm.

Woman coat

size 46: height 168, og-92, from-74 ob- 98.

Back length approx. 85 cm

Pattern-base for full figures, for sizes 50-58, built according to the same method as But differs in some specific features: allowances and a line of the shoulder seam, associated with the fact that a magnificent bust and, very often, a full waist and stomach, require other allowances for a loose fit. And must be measured especially carefully.

Therefore, in this article, I decided to place a table with the real measurements of my clients, 50-58 sizes, with the types of figures "apple", "pear", "hourglass". They will help you build your own custom base pattern.

Table of measurements 50-58 sizes.

Features of calculations for patterns-bases 50-58 sizes.

Rule 1

If for sizes 44-50 0.5 cm is added to half of the chest circumference, then for patterns for full figures 54-58 - 0.7-1 cm. This is done so that the side seam does not move towards the front.

Rule 2

When constructing a pattern for the front of 54-58 sizes, due to big size darts - 11-15 cm, the line of the shoulder seam can be drawn at a significant slope. Because of this armhole, the front is small and short for such sizes. It is very difficult to sew a sleeve into it correctly and beautifully.

Therefore, when I build a pattern, I usually check the shoulder slope line with a control measure - oblique chest height - VGk. Even if it coincides with the drawn line of the shoulder, I “raise” the shoulder seam by 1-1.5 cm - the picture on the bottom collage. And, as a rule, when trying on, if we sew a model of a dress with sleeves, we deepen the armhole by 1.5-3 cm for blouses and dresses, and for jackets - by 2-4 cm

Rule 3

For full apple-shaped figures, the side seam line usually passes through the points at the intersection of the bust, hips and control line. And the width of the side and central tucks is only 2-2.5 cm

For hourglass and pear silhouette figures, it is more difficult to build a base pattern due to big difference in bust, waist and hip measurements. For example, if the exhaust gas is 110 cm, from is 90 cm, and the OB is 118, the width of the darts is 3 cm

As a result, a rather sharp bend in the side seam is obtained, which is difficult to iron when sewing a dress or jacket. Therefore, it is preferable to sew models with a central seam on the back, and redistribute the width of the darts. If the deflection along this seam is 1 cm, then the side tucks can be reduced by 0.5-0.7 cm each. And I prefer to sew a zipper, when the style allows it, into the central seam of the back. If the model of the dress with a skirt is “semi-sun”, then the zipper is sewn into the side seam.

Calculations for pattern base 50-58 sizes.

The allowance for a loose fit to the chest circumference, for a dress and a blouse, even an adjacent silhouette, it is better to make 7-8 cm, for a semi-adjacent and for a jacket - 9-10 cm

Calculation of measurements for size 50.

OT - 78 or OT - 84

(OG + 8): 2 = 108: 2 = 54: 2 = 27

For the front pattern, add 0.5, for the back pattern, subtract 0.5 cm

OG on the front chest line - 27.5

OG back - 26.5

Calculation of the dimensions of the darts.

From \u003d 78 cm + 4 \u003d 82: 2 \u003d 41

From the calculated measurement of half the OG with an allowance, we subtract the resulting value of half the waist with allowances: 54 - 41 \u003d 13: 4 \u003d 3.2 - for an hourglass figure.

With OT \u003d 84, the size of the darts is as follows: 84 + 4 \u003d 88: 2 \u003d 44

54 - 44 \u003d 10 cm: 4 \u003d 2.5 cm - for an apple silhouette figure.

Calculation of the size of the hip line.

(OB + 4): 2 = 104 + 4 = 108: 2 = 54

For a figure with such measurements, the points of the front line of the chest and the line of the hips are located on the same control line.

If OB \u003d 110 cm, then after calculating: (110 + 4 \u003d 114) : 2 \u003d 57, the difference between half the circumference of the chest with allowances and half the circumference of the hips with allowances, would be 3 cm.

57 - 54 \u003d 3: 2 \u003d +1.5 cm - this value must be set aside from the control line on the front and back pattern along the hips. For the front - to the left, for the back - to the right.

Calculation of measurements for a pattern of 52 sizes.

OG \u003d (104 + 8) : 2 \u003d 112: 2 \u003d 56: 2 \u003d 28

0.5 = 28.5 - front, - 0.5 = 27.5 - back

OT \u003d (92 + 4): 2 \u003d 48

Darts = 56 - 48 = 8: 4 = 2 cm - each tuck

OB \u003d (112 + 4) : 2 \u003d 116: 2 \u003d 58

58 - 56 \u003d 2 cm: 2 - + 1 cm along the hip line from the control line.

Calculation of measurements for size 54.

OG \u003d (108 + 8) : 2 \u003d 116: 2 \u003d 58: 2 \u003d 29

OG transfer \u003d 29 + 0.7 \u003d 29.7

OG back \u003d 29 - 0.7 \u003d 28.3

From = (94 + 4) : 2 = 98: 2 = 49

Darts = 58 - 49 = 11: 4 = 2.7

OB \u003d (116 + 4) : 2 \u003d 120: 2 \u003d 60 - 58 \u003d 2: 2 \u003d +1 cm from the control lines along the hip line

Calculation of measurements for size 58.

OG \u003d (116 + 8) : 2 \u003d 124: 2 \u003d 62: 2 \u003d 31

OG transfer = 31 + 1 = 32

Back exhaust gas 31 - 1 = 30

OT \u003d (98 + 4) \u003d 2 \u003d 102: 2 \u003d 51

62 - 51 \u003d 11: 4 \u003d 2.7 cm - darts

OB \u003d (122 + 4) : 2 \u003d 126: 2 \u003d 63

63 - 62 \u003d 1 cm: 2 \u003d + 0.5 cm from the point of the reference line on the line of the hips.

In order to build a base pattern for a dress with a straight silhouette, draw lines parallel to the middle of the front and back, from a point on the line of the hips, to the required length of the dress.

Using such a pattern, if it is built accurately and tested, you will be able to model and sew any of the models.

For a trapezoid dress, continue the control line to the required length and set the point of inclination of the side seam at a distance of 12-22 cm to the left of it - for the front half of the pattern. For the pattern of the back, respectively, to the right. This distance can be increased to 25 cm, but no more, especially if the length of the dress is up to the knee. The side seams will simply “fold” inward, and the dress will look sloppy.

If you want a more flared dress, then choose a model with an undercut under the bust and a half-sun or A-line cut at the bias. You can choose a dress model with reliefs - each detail changes along the bottom line to the required width.