What happens to hair after dyeing. Classic permanent hair dyes - characteristics and coloring process

The decision to become a blonde is often spontaneous. A woman just goes to the store and buys what she likes. white paint. At home, she mixes something in a tube with something in a bottle, puts it on her hair and waits. Not surprisingly, the result differs from expectations.

The creation of a blond always takes place in two stages.

1. Lightening (bleaching). This is a process in which the natural or artificial pigment of the hair is destroyed.
2. Toning. Giving hair the desired shade.

Clarification is carried out with a special powder or cream and an oxidizing agent of a certain percentage. For example, in order to make dark hair lighter by 4–5 tones, you need an oxide of at least 6%. If the hair is blond, a 1.5-3% oxidizing agent is usually used. But everything is very individual. Sometimes, in order to achieve the desired result, 6–9 percent oxide is used to lighten blondes.

The result of lightening is always a warm shade. Why this happens, you will find out a little later. In the meantime, remember: between the concepts of "lightening" and "coloring in blond" you can not put an equal sign. After all, you can lighten up to create a nuclear orange or acid green hair.

Lightening is just the first step towards blonde. It sets the substrate on which the color must necessarily lie.

The result of dyeing depends on many factors: the condition of the hair, the initial tone and shade and, of course, the coloring composition and the method of its application.

Vika Glu, hairdresser

Mistake 2. Ignore lightening background and tone level

In everyday life, people are divided into blondes, brown-haired, redheads and brunettes. Everything is more complicated for professional hairdressers and colorists.

Human hair consists of a nourishing rod (medulla), which gives strength and elasticity to the cortex and a protective cuticle (many dense scales on the surface).

The cortex contains melanin, which is responsible for hair color. Melanin is made up of two pigments eumelanin and pheomelanin. The first has dark shade(from brown to blue-black) and the shape of elongated granules. The second is round molecules of yellow and red colors.

Natural hair color depends on the ratio of melanin pigments. The more eumelanin, the darker the hair, and vice versa: pheomelanin prevails in blondes.

The level of tone (or, as they say, the level of depth of tone) depends on the amount of eumelanin.

The tone level (UT or UGT) is the gradation of the natural hair color by lightness.

Vika Glu, hairdresser

Allocate 10 UT, where one is black, and everything above seven is considered blond.

uhairstylist.com

When lightening, the level of depth of tone increases and the background of lightening appears. This is the color that is obtained after the partial destruction of the natural or artificial, if the hair was dyed, pigment.

Imagine a flask with red and yellow balls inside. The initial tone level is 6. We lighten up to 9. Only yellow balls remain in the flask. The next step is toning, and you need to understand how much blue and red to add so that the colors mix and from a distance the bulb looks beige.

Before going to blonde, you need to determine the level of tone, the predominant pigment and desired result. It depends on what to lighten (powder or cream), what percentage of the oxidizing agent to use, where to start applying the composition and other nuances. Hairdressers make special formulas to calculate how many grams to squeeze out of which tube to tint specific hair.

Vika Glu, hairdresser

Mistake 3. Not following instructions

It is important to take into account not only the level of tone and the background of clarification, but also to understand what type the composition belongs to and how to use it correctly. Lightening and dyeing hair are chemical reactions, the course of which depends on the dye used.

All dyes can be divided into direct and indirect.

Straight lines do not mix with an oxidizing agent and do not penetrate into the hair. Their molecules settle on the cuticle. Direct dyes are produced mainly in the form of tinted shampoos, balms and mousses. Colored crayons also belong to direct dyes. They are easy to use at home (no need to mix anything) to maintain or refresh color.

Indirect dyes open the cuticle, penetrate the inside of the hair and destroy the natural pigment to make room for the artificial one. Such dyes are always mixed with an oxidizing agent - hydrogen peroxide with various additives. They are usually produced in the form of creams. It is more difficult to work with them (exact proportions are needed).

Indirect dyes also include dyes in which there is no ammonia, but its derivatives are present. They do not have such a pungent smell, but the principle of action is the same as that of ammonia dyes.

When working with indirect dyes, it is very important to choose the right percentage of oxidizing agent. It depends on him how much it will be possible to rise in terms of the level of depth of tone and how much to keep the composition on the hair.

Many mistakenly think that the longer they keep the dye on their hair, the better the effect will be. In fact, manufacturers conduct more than one clinical study to calculate how long a particular composition needs to lighten, develop and fix artificial pigment. If the package says "Keep 30 minutes", keep for half an hour. Overdoing the paint, you only dry your hair.

Mistake 4. Not taking care of your hair

To become a luxurious blonde, it is not enough to lighten up. Blond requires constant careful care. Otherwise, the hair that has gone through the lightening reaction will hang like a lifeless tow.

Hair does not have strength and energy, because it is keratinized appendages of the skin. Some restorative cosmetics regenerate disulfide bonds and protein, but most conditioners simply close the cuticle scales tightly to reflect light. As a result, the hair looks good, it is pleasant to touch them.

The internet is full of folk recipes hair lightening. It must be understood that lemon juice, a decoction of chamomile or kefir will never turn you into a platinum blonde. The maximum will do Brown hair half a tone lighter.

But natural ingredients can be used to improve the condition of dyed hair. Here are some good masks.

1. Honey. Mix equal proportions of honey, aloe juice and Castor oil. Keep on hair for 30 minutes. Wash off with plenty of warm water.
2. Banana. Mix one medium banana, one egg, one teaspoon of honey, a tablespoon and two tablespoons of full-fat yogurt without additives with a blender until completely smooth. Keep for about an hour, then rinse and wash your hair with shampoo.
3. egg. Pour two tablespoons of gelatin with warm water and leave for 10-15 minutes to swell the gelatin. Then melt it in a water bath, add the yolk of one egg and a tablespoon of your hair balm. Apply the resulting mixture to your hair, put on a plastic cap and wrap your head with a towel. Keep 40-60 minutes. After the procedure, rinse your hair with warm water.

Be careful with folk remedies. They can ruin even the most beautiful cold blonde. "Food" on the hair will never give such an effect as professional cosmetics. From what is unlikely to make it worse - vinegar (an acidic environment will smooth the scales), coconut oil (but it is difficult to wash off).

Vika Glu, hairdresser

In addition, it is necessary to constantly maintain the color with tinted shampoos and other products, which also often contain care components.

Once we wrote about that, but the issue with the hairstyle is, of course, not limited to this. Now we've talked to a professional hair colorist about hair coloring and found out everything you need to know before you change color or cover your gray hair at home or in the salon.

masha vorslav

Why dye your hair

What is the advantage
professional and
ammonia-free paints

There are usually no color mixing recommendations on professional dyes, and, in principle, household dyes can also be used to neutralize, but there is a risk of getting your finger in the sky. From the photograph that accompanies them, one cannot understand the shade that will eventually come out - it's like looking at a magazine photo through the studio light and. To figure it out, you need to know what each digit in the shade number means. I have clients who know what colors to paint them with. Three, for example, denotes a golden hue, so if you want to get ashy, you can’t use it.

There are also ammonia-free and temporary dyes that do not last very long. Ammonia-free dye does not penetrate deep into the hair, it stays on the surface and does not damage the hair structure, even if it is dyed in a lighter color. Another plus is that if the color does not turn out the way you wanted, you can correct it with the same dye of a different shade. Ammonia dye drastically changes hair color.

It is important to understand that dyeing with persistent ammonia dyes is a one-way ticket. After them hair can remain excellent quality, but the native pigment will leave and remain artificial, which can change over time (fade for example). Well, in general, self-coloring is better to start with semi-permanent things like shampoos, foams, creams and other things - these are also cool things, the effect of which can be easily adjusted.

You can consult about colors at least with your hairdresser. He will tell you what will look good with a particular appearance and how the hair will work with the paint. There is hair that at first glance is very easy to dye (classic blond for example), but even the master cannot dye it into a cold blond. It all depends on the characteristics of the hair, which only professionals know about, so when dyeing at home, you can minimize the risks at least with the help of a good dye.

What influences the result
staining

Of course, there are types of hair. Negroid and oriental make even three tones lighter without damaging the hair itself, it is quite difficult. The hair, for example, of Asians is so dense that it is impossible to lighten it white without eating all the keratin with paint. Very dark hair a priori warm in color type, and red or orange pigment will come out in them.

Curly hair is also quite difficult to color because it is naturally fragile and brittle. Ideally, they should be worked with an ammonia-free dye. Wavy hair- it doesn't matter, dark or light - you also need careful staining. The classic Slavic hair, which we call “mouse hair”, can also bring surprises and even give out a redhead even after a cold shade of paint.

The final result of staining is predicted based on the appearance color type. The person may be with blue eyes And fair skin, but his color type will be warm. You can determine the type by the color of the veins and the iris of the eye: if the veins are distinctly blue, the color type of cold and warm shades of the hair will be easy to neutralize. And if there are a lot of warm brownish blotches in the eyes, it is better to prepare for the fact that the paint may not interrupt the natural red or orange color of the hair.

How to avoid yellowness
when lightening

It is generally difficult with home lightening, because the hair has a limit, which it will not become lighter. After it, it is necessary not to lighten, but to tint in order to neutralize the yellowness and patch up the hair. good paint contains keratin, ceramides, oils and other tricky formulas that take the place of native pigments washed out by the brightener. And if you continue to be zealous with lightening, you can simply destroy the hair.

The complexity of lightening depends on the type of hair. For example, caucasian girl you need to take a break between lightening for at least two to three weeks so that the keratin layer of the hair has time to recover. To make a good clean blonde, ideally two sessions are needed. If the hair has already been dyed, it may take more or, conversely, less time. I had a client with natural red hair who was dyed red, and in five hours in the salon we made her a cool warm blonde (no one expected this). By the way, if the hair was previously dyed with natural dyes (henna, basma), it is very difficult with them, because such dyes do not wash out at all and can discolor, for example, green. So if long hair a year after henna, start painting with professional paint, we must remember that the natural one is still in the middle of the length and has not washed anywhere.

There is such a color scheme, Oswald's star, colorists go through it during their studies. According to it, it is clear that yellow, unloved by everyone, can be neutralized by the opposing purple, and you can get rid of red in chocolate and coffee shades with the help of special “matting” colors, which are based on green pigment. Colorists use mathematical formulas to figure out how much neutralizing tone is needed. So if it is unwise to use a cold tone, you can turn from yellow to purple.

How to care for
dyed hair

After dyeing, hair care, of course, changes. For natural hair you need to use care in accordance with their type (curly, dry, etc.), dyed can also be attributed to types. If discoloration has occurred, you need a serious moisturizing and regenerating care, for example, keratin. Keratin is a buzzword now, but the hair really needs it for protection, and bleaching in most cases washes it out and spoils the hair. If they are completely dry and porous, they cannot be completely restored, but they can be made more shiny and dense. To do this, there are a lot of products from gentle shampoo to masks. Plus you need to pick leave-in care(air conditioners, oils).

How to get beautiful
unnatural color

In the case of painting unnatural colors the key to success is a competent basis: high-quality and evenly (that is, without any spots) bleached hair. On good foundation You can put in any color. In principle, permanent dyes are not even needed for this. I don't even recommend persistent because today you like green and tomorrow you don't. There are a lot of pigments in the form of shampoos, foams, creams, which you can use to dye your hair in cool colors. Of course, all pastel shades are quite difficult to obtain. I think that they should be mixed, the exposure time should be clearly calculated, and applied carefully. Compared to them, rich, acid colors are not a problem at all. But we must not forget that with them you need to build on the original hair color. I would recommend doing colored strands on your own, but it’s better to have the whole head dyed by a professional. You also need to know that different brands have different color intensities: one blue can be flat and dull, while the other can be deep. It is impossible to name any one of the coolest firms, because there are a lot of them.

As I promised, today we will make an excursion into anatomy and physics: we will study the theoretical foundations of the dyeing process and talk about the main difference between natural hair dyes and their chemical “competitors”, about the mechanism of hair dyeing and the effect of coloring mixtures on hair.

As practice shows, the largest number of errors when using natural dyes occurs precisely because of a misunderstanding of the essence of the staining mechanism. Many people incorrectly believe that henna is an ordinary paint, only natural and harmless. This wrong message leads to disappointment.

Henna is a dye with a radically different staining mechanism than the chemical dyes we are used to, which are simple and uncomplicated to use. Its interaction with the hair occurs according to a different principle and requires compliance with certain conditions. How does the dyeing process take place? Let's analyze this issue at the level of hair anatomy.

As you all know, hair is made up of three layers: the cuticle (the outer scaly layer), the cortex (the middle layer of "stiffened" keratin fibers, the "bark" of the hair, which contains our own pigment - melanin) and the medulla (the central layer of living liquid keratin fibers). All three layers are anatomically and physiologically inseparable and are normally present in any person. At the same time, the cortex is anatomically a keratinized continuation of the brain core, and the cuticle is tightly soldered to the cortex by a lipid casing - fatty acid molecules bound to hair keratin by covalent bonds through a sulfur atom. This lipid casing protects the cortex from external influences, prevents the destruction of keratin fibers and the loss of melanin grains, which are tightly "woven" into the keratin framework.

Depending on the integrity of the keratin fibers of the cortical layer, as well as the strength and density of the integumentary scales adhering to it, the hair is divided into silky (smooth hair surface with a tight fit of scales and tight interlacing of keratin fibers) and porous (rough hair surface with incomplete adhesion of scales and loose interweaving of keratin fibers with a large number of voids). Porous hair is more susceptible to aggressive environments, loses elasticity more easily, dries out, breaks, fades faster (loses melanin), but is more easily dyed (with any dye). Silky hair, on the contrary, is more resistant and elastic. They are (due to their strength) more difficult to dye, but the dye adheres to them more firmly.

But not only the strength and density of the cuticle affects the ability to stain: the location and size of melanin grains and the predominance of one or another of its types (yellow-red or black-brown) also play an important role - the color obtained as a result of staining depends on this.

When dyeing hair with chemical dyes, there is a complete or partial replacement of the hair's own pigment with an artificial dye pigment. To do this, without exception, all artificial dyes contain aggressive components (such as persulfates, resorcinol, hydrogen peroxide, ammonia, etc.), which loosen the lipid casing between the cuticle and the cortex, tear and split the dense keratin fibers of the cortex, squeeze out grains melanin and, finally, fill the voids with artificial pigment. As a result, the hair can change color radically, but at the same time it loses its integrity and gradually collapses. Due to the destruction of keratin fibers, the artificial pigment is washed out very quickly, which forces us to resort to repeated dyeing again and again, which each time only aggravate the situation and lead to the complete destruction of the hair along the length.

And here the prudent cosmetics industry and enterprising hairdressers do not let our hair die in peace without milking us to the last ruble (or last hair): silicones, keratins, vitamins, petroleum jelly and proteins - everything is used that will allow you to glue the miserable washcloth left over from the hair, at least for a while ... Therefore, we notice the problem too late, most often when it is no longer possible to solve it with anything except for scissors.

Some of my customers after switching to washing their hair natural soap, notice that the hair begins to catastrophically “split” at the ends and believe that this is due to soap. However, soap has nothing to do with it! This is just a vivid demonstration of my words: as soon as we stop “gluing” keratin crumbling into dust with industrial silicones, the hair (or rather, what is left of them) immediately begins to break off right down to the very roots. For the mechanical integrity of the hair is no longer there, we just don’t notice it under a thick layer of “glue”! But if you look at damaged hair under a microscope, the picture will be depressing:

staining mechanism natural dyes quite different. Natural dyes contain too few substances that can have any effect on the lipid casing of the hair, so they are simply not able to penetrate the cortex and displace the natural pigment.

Keratin fibers are not damaged when dyed with natural dyes, their interlacing does not weaken, and melanin is completely preserved inside the cortex (which affects the final hair color after dyeing). But then how does henna allow you to achieve a change in hair color? Oh, it's a complex multi-step process!

It begins at the moment of brewing and infusion of dry plant powder: lawson particles are extracted with water to form a colloidal solution. It should be noted that any henna needs extraction (in a simple way - “fermentation”), regardless of whether it is rich in pigment or not (the pigment must be transferred from plant tissue cells into a colloidal solution, otherwise it will not physically be able to get on hair). If the seller tells you that his henna does not need it, since it is “high-quality”, he either does not understand the essence of the process, or lies, or sells henna with a chemical dye mixed in, or tries not to miss his profit by forcing you to spend more vegetable powder than you need for one coloring.

You can not dye your hair without first extracting the pigment! At the same time, the thinner the mixture (the more water it contains), the faster and more completely the extraction process will be completed. And these are not my “notions”, this is physics: the laws of diffusion in general and Fick’s law in particular, according to which the diffusion process directly depends on the gradient (increase) of the concentration of the solution.

And I can confirm this on a simple and visual experience (how does physics and chemistry differ from the humanities? The fact that everything said here is easy to check and distinguish reality from claims of originality: if you say - prove it!). So, I prove: we take two glasses, pour an equal amount of henna (the cheapest) into them and fill them with water at a temperature of 80-90 ° C. Only in one glass we pour 200 ml of water, and in the other just enough to dilute the henna to a state of thick creamy consistency, which is usually recommended by henna sellers for application to hair:

We leave the glasses for an hour and a half, so that the extraction is completed as fully as possible and compare the results. To do this, we bring the volume of water in the second glass to the level of the first, shake the contents of both glasses and evaluate the color.

As you can see, in the first glass, where there was initially more water, the color of the infusion is much more saturated with pigment than in the second. A small amount of extractant (water) in the second glass was quickly fed up with even a small amount of pigment, diffusion critically slowed down, which did not allow extraction to the end, until the complete depletion of plant materials. In other words, most of the pigment remained as a dead weight in the tissues of plant materials, which means that the amount of dye we used was wasted:

Thus, coloring begins with the correct process of extracting the pigment, thanks to which the colloidal aqueous solution is obtained as saturated as possible.

Further, when a colloidal solution is applied to the hair, pigment particles finely dispersed in it are deposited layer by layer on the surface of the hair, similar to the thinnest layers of Venetian plaster. At first, these layers are almost translucent, but gradually “gaining weight”, saturating and “cementing” the cuticle deeper and deeper, filling in all the voids, irregularities and roughness, they acquire the desired thickness, brightness and strength of the “chitinous cover”. Pigments in combination with tannins compress and compact the surface layers of the hair, thereby thickening the hair, making it stronger and harder.

As you can see, the dyeing process does not take place from the inside of the hair, but from the outside, according to the principle of “cementing”, and not replacing melanin with a colorant. That is why henna cannot be washed off with anything but scissors. However, coloring your hair to the right level of intensity and depth of color is also not easy! To increase the required thickness of the "cementing" layer, it will take time, at least six to eight regular stains, which will take about six months.

And I want to warn you against trying to "speed up" the process. Do not forget that the dye settling on the hair not only thickens the hair (which makes it possible to gain the much-desired volume), but also makes it heavier! It is necessary that the hair follicles have time to adapt to the increased load. Painting with a natural dye can be compared to finishing work: a contact compound is first applied to a concrete wall, then rough plaster, then a primer, finishing plaster, another layer of primer and, finally, finishing putty. It is important to strictly follow the sequence of actions and the time for drying the layers, otherwise, either the walls will never become even and smooth, or all several layers will crack and fall off the concrete base.

So in the case of henna: if you rush and dye too often, exceeding the dye exposure time on your hair, you will damage your hair (dry it, make it hard and naughty), or completely lose it (they will simply fall off with the root under by its overwhelming weight).

Everyone who began to dye their hair with henna in their youth is quite “trained”, therefore certain “discounts” are always provided for them. But those who decide to switch to natural dyes only with the appearance of gray hair should not be in a hurry! With a gradual and unhurried progress towards the goal, in compliance with all the rules of dyeing and precautions, the dye will lie on the hair firmly and without loss, and the hair will acquire the long-awaited volume, density and will grow almost twice as fast.

With this dyeing mechanism, the hair is not only saturated with color and smoothed, but also “sealed” into an additional protective casing, thanks to which it can withstand external aggressive factors and retain moisture inside the living core. The dye layer on the surface of the hair also plays another important role - the role of a mirror "reflector", a universal UV filter. All these effects have been repeatedly tested by me in practice: in hot countries, the color of my hair does not fade either in the sun or under the influence of sea water. There were even curious cases when, by the end of the vacation, those around me lost any doubts that this was my “natural” hair color.

Now that the staining mechanism has become clear to you, the causes of staining problems have also become obvious. gray hair.

Gray hair is a transparent glassy hair completely devoid of its own melanin pigment, with a large number of air bubbles inside the cortex (due to which the hair becomes light and fluffy, but at the same time unruly, stiff and sometimes crimped). Difficulties always arise when coloring such hair. The complete absence of its own pigment does not allow one to limit oneself to simple “toning”, therefore, to dye gray hair in the same color as the rest of the hair, a combination of both yellow-red and brown-black pigments (a mixture of dyes) is needed.

For example, if you have blond hair, then you have about the same amount of red and black melanin. By dyeing your hair with pure henna, you increase the amount of red pigment, but the amount of black does not change, resulting in a mahogany shade.

In the case of gray hair, when stained with henna (yellow-red pigment), the hair acquires apricot-orange tones (red henna varieties) or pale pink tones (copper henna varieties), since its own black pigment is absent and cannot affect the shade .

The same thing happens with simultaneous staining with a mixture of henna / basma - henna is a stronger pigment (better absorbed by the hair) than basma, and therefore gray hair will have a maximum light chestnut (buffy) shade.

Over time (5-6 colorings) and gray hair will be painted over deeply, reliably and forever - neither henna nor basma give up their positions, including on gray hair (this is the most important plus of natural dyes for gray hair - chemical dyes from them are easily washed out and the process has to be restarted each time).

But even in the case of natural dyes, the owners of gray hair always face the “root problem” - the roots, dyed in orange tones, scream! What to do in this situation?

The solution to the problem is regular (every 8-10 days) tinting of the roots. Hair grows by about 0.3 mm per day, respectively, in 10 days the length of the regrown roots will be no more than 3-4 mm, which will not be able to create a color contrast due to low visibility. And by the time when the length of the regrown areas increases to a clearly visible one (1-1.5 cm), they will already be colored at least 3-4 times and the color depth of the root zone will no longer contrast with the main length.

The second solution to this problem is two-stage staining - first henna, then basma. So the dye from the first time lays down more intensively, and the roots immediately get a darker (less contrasting) shade.

This technique is very difficult when dyeing the roots, when dyes must be sequentially applied strictly to a certain length of the hair section adjacent to the roots, but for owners of short and very short hair that apply dye to the entire length, and not just to the roots, this option is ideal!

A similar problem awaits the owners of hair bleached or dyed with a chemical dye - alas, it will not be possible to naturally and smoothly equalize the hair color "before and after", the hair will forever retain the "border" of color. So gradually, centimeter by centimeter, they will have to be cut - this is the only way to avoid contrasts.

And now it's time to talk about the cons of natural dyes. As usual, they also have their weaknesses.

Most of the substances that make up henna have an extremely positive effect, but there are also those whose influence is not so clear and should be minimized. Gallic acid is a substance that, like any other acids, dries hair. Also, tannins - salts of gallic acid (essentially useful) can cause harm - add stiffness and brittleness to hair, which affects appearance hair (especially if the hair is long). Such consequences when staining with henna are not uncommon and are associated with improper preparation of the mixture, too thick application or too long (frequent) use of the dye.

To prevent the above problems, there is a simple solution - ordinary vegetable oil! It will not only protect the hair from the damaging effects of gallic acid, but also soften the "cement" layer of tannins, ensuring that softness and elasticity remain with regular staining. Add a little vegetable (or special) oil to the coloring mixture and henna will not cause the slightest harm to your hair. And about which oils are best used when staining, I will tell you in detail a little later.

So do not demonize the harm of henna. Never and under no circumstances will henna (even without adding oil to the dye mixture) be able to dry hair the way chemical dyes do!

Moreover, gallic acid and its esters (tannins) also have beneficial features- These are powerful antioxidants, the benefits of which in relation to the neutralization of free radicals and radionuclides are known to all. Thanks to them, henna and basma have a healing effect not only on the hair, but also on the scalp. Under the influence of tannins, skin proteins are compacted (tanning). The skin becomes denser and better resists infections, chemical and mechanical effects, which contributes to a stronger rooting of hair, reduction of hair loss and rapid growth.

But natural dyes also have a number of features that are classified as “cons”. In my opinion, it is they (and not the mythical "harm" that opponents of henna constantly talk about) that reduce the popularity of using henna and basma.

First of all, it is the complexity and duration of the staining process. Using a chemical dye is much easier and faster, and few people want to burden themselves with unnecessary trouble. Our own laziness is the first enemy of everything natural. Yes, I agree, henna hair coloring is not for the faint of heart. It will require patience, patience, once again patience and the greatest willpower! Usually, it is not difficult to devote half an hour or an hour to your beloved for a pleasant relaxing procedure. But cutting out for an unpleasant hair coloring procedure all day, every two or three weeks, and even month after month, year after year, is a big problem. At the same time, the dyeing process is not only long, but also terribly troublesome - from preparing the mixture to washing it off (otherwise, dyeing with natural dyes in specialized salons would not cost such tangible money!).

How to simplify the procedure and save time? For this, too, there are a number of measures that you can use. Here is a partial list:

• if you have reached the desired color depth and the hair along the entire length (with the exception of the root zone) is firmly and evenly colored (especially if you have long hair), then there is no longer any need to apply the dye to the entire length of the hair, it is enough to dye only the roots and adjacent to them a segment of 5-8 centimeters. After applying the coloring mixture to the roots, collect the rest of the hair in a bun and pin it up at the back of the head. Such “partial” staining will significantly reduce the time of applying and washing off the mixture, as well as significantly reduce the consumption of expensive dye. Among other things, this technique will allow you to maintain a given color depth and protect the ends of the hair from excessive drying (and cementing);
• if it’s not a problem for you to go to bed later, but to get up early, and you use a one-stage staining technique - apply the dye at night, for about 6 hours (as they say, the soldier is sleeping, the service is on). However, in this case, you should use a very liquid coloring mixture, not thicker than kefir, which practically does not stick to the brush, easily flowing off it. It is imperative to add a double amount of oil to the mixture, and make oil wraps between dyeings so that the hair does not lose its softness and elasticity;
• if your hair is not too dirty, color without first washing your hair. The coloring mixture in this case should also be quite liquid, but you do not need to add oil - your own sebum will be enough to protect the hair and scalp - this will also reduce the time required to wash and dry the hair before dyeing;

Igora Royal, Koleston Perfect, Revlonissimo NMT, Salerm Vison, LondaColor, Color Fusion, EssexAnd many other.

Classic permanent dyes work with four types of oxidants: 3%, 6%, 9% and 12%.

In contact with

Lighten up to a maximum of five tones (in most cases only up to four). Color gray hair up to 100%. Doesn't lighten colored hair.

Hair coloring with oxidative dyes is always the result of superimposing two colors:

1. colors of the selected dye,

2. lightening background colors.

The composition of permanent dyes includes two types of coloring particles:

1. colorless or slightly colored after oxidation (pigments),

2. colored particles after oxidation (pigments).

The tone level of the dye and its color saturation are determined by the base particles, and the color nuance is determined by the color particles. The set of combinations of base and color particles included in the dye determines the spectrum color palette cream paints.

How hair coloring happens, the chemistry of the process

As already mentioned, the chemical staining process will only occur if two components are mixed at the time of use - a cream containing polymer masses, color carriers and alkaline components, and an oxygen containing stabilized hydrogen peroxide.

When these two components are mixed, a chemical reaction begins.

1. Loosening and lightening.

Alkaline compounds (ammonia NH 4 OH), an oxidizing agent (H 2 O 2) and additional components loosen the cuticle and cortex layers for better penetration of coloring molecules into the hair.

Hydrogen peroxide H2O2, with the help of ammonia NH 4 OH, decomposes into water and atomic oxygen O 2 (H 2 O 2 + H 2 O + O 2).

Atomic oxygen brightens the natural pigment of the hair. How more quantity atomic oxygen, the stronger the hair will lighten, which means that the level of lightening depends on the percentage of hydrogen peroxide.

But let's not forget that selection a large number atomic oxygen requires a higher alkalinity of the product, so the brightening series of permanent dyes contain increased amount ammonia, which subsequently leads to a stronger lightening compared to classic permanent dyes (it should be noted that this stage is significantly increased for lightening permanent dyes).

Process time: 10 minutes.

2. Penetration and staining.

At this stage, pre-dyes penetrate the hair, which prepare it for dyeing, and oxidative dye molecules necessary to create the final color.

Hydrogen peroxide H 2 O 2, interacting with the coloring particles of the dye (permanent dye molecules have a small body and develop only in the hair), increases them and builds connections.

At the end of the dye oxidation reaction in the hair, the dye molecules swell 300 times, filling all the voids formed after the oxidation of the natural pigment.

The coloring pigment, interacting with the natural pigment, pre-clarified, and forms new color.

Process time: from the 10th to the 30th minute.

3. Stabilization and fixing .

The stabilizers contained in the dye fix the molecular bonds and increase the life of the new color in the hair.

Process time: from the 25th to the 35th minute.

When washing your hair after dyeing, only those manifested paint particles that are on the surface of the hair cuticle will be washed off.

Features of the use of permanent dyes

1. The dye is not applied to clean hair.

But the client should not be allowed to come with hair that has not been washed for more than one day. Ideally, if the client will wash his hair in the morning, and in the evening he will come for coloring, or he will wash his hair in the evening, and in the morning he will come to the salon. That is, on average, eight hours are enough to restore the protective film on the scalp, which will warn and protect it from the aggressive effects of the dye.

If the hair is dirty (did not wash for more than a day, there are styling products and other contaminants), then it is necessary to wash the strands in a “gentle” way before dyeing. That is, washing them, try as much as possible so that the shampoo does not get on the scalp.

2. The dye must be applied in thin partings and abundantly.

It is undesirable to comb the hair during application, although if you comb the strand during the first few seconds, there will be no harm to the hair and color.

If you comb your hair about a minute after applying the dye and later, there will be a high probability of damage to the cuticle by the teeth of the comb.

3. When applying, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the roots must breathe. Therefore, you can not collect hair in "babettes" or knots.

Example of calculation for hair coloring

• Hair color: light blond (tone depth level - eight).
• The main dominant pigment is yellow-orange.
• The desired color is a light blond pearl (the dominant dye pigment is violet-blue).

Let's look at schematic examples of what happens in the hair if a dye is applied without the addition of a neutralizing mixton.

Many manufacturers produce mixton, which are used to enhance and neutralize color. Each of them has its own formula for mixing a mixton with a dye, which must be observed.

Of course, to neutralize an undesirable hue and lightening background (or darkening background) of a mixton, much less is needed than when it is added to a dye to saturate the color. In the latter case, the amount of mixton can reach the same amount as the dye.

4. "Rule of Ten".

When neutralizing the color, in most cases the “rule of ten” is used (where the calculation is based on the N amount of mixton per 30 ml of dye).

From ten you need to subtract the level of tone depth from which the colorist is trying to create the desired color.

It should be noted that the proportion of mixton added to the mixture is not taken into account for the proportion of the oxidizing agent. That is, if 30 ml of dye and 10 ml of mixton are taken, the oxidizing agent should be 30 ml (if it is necessary to mix the dye with the oxidizing agent according to the formula 1: 1).

Remember, many manufacturers have their own system. So, for example, from Wella you will have to take away from 12, and from L’Oreal you will not find mixtons for neutralization at all. As mentioned above, you will have to use tones-neutralizers.

Consider an example table for the rule of ten:

• 10 level 0.5 cm = 0.25 ml
• Level 9 1 cm = 0.5 ml
• 8 level 2 cm = 1 ml
• 7 level 3 cm = 1.5 ml
• 6 level 4 cm = 3 ml
• 5 level 5 cm = 2.5 ml
• 4 level 6 cm = 3 ml
• Level 3 7 cm = 3.5 ml
• Level 2 8 cm = 4 ml
• 1 level 9 cm = 4.5 ml

It can be seen from the diagram that the dye pigment, instead of showing off on the hair with a beautiful cold shade, neutralizes the natural dominant pigment. And instead of the desired color, a pleasant natural light blond appears on the hair.

In order to avoid this effect and achieve the desired color, it is necessary to add a mixton with a violet-blue pigment to the dye, which neutralizes the dominant natural pigment and allows the dye to dye the hair pearly.

5. When dyeing hair, it is necessary to take into account such features as primary dyeing and dyeing of regrown roots (in this case, the length of regrown roots should not exceed 3-4 cm).

6. The staining time is on average 30-35 minutes, depending on the manufacturer of the product.

• In rare cases, it changes upwards. Most often this happens when dyeing gray hair, and in some companies and when dyeing with extra-fashionable tones - in these cases, the time increases to 35 minutes, and when dyeing gray hair it becomes equal to 45 minutes.

Features of dyeing gray hair, the rules in the video:

• Also, the time changes when dyeing pre-lightened and highly porous hair, in these cases, the time is reduced to 15-20 minutes.

7. When painting, there is no need to use additional heat, but if you need to save time as much as possible, then you can use climazon.

For proper use, read the instructions for the dye, which will tell you how much time is reduced when applying additional heat. On average, it is reduced by one third.

If Express Color color enhancers are used, then the instructions must be followed. attached to them. Based on practice, we can safely say that they passed positively all tests conducted with dyes from most manufacturers on the domestic market (not counting non-professional products).

8. To remove the dye from the marginal skin, it is necessary to use specialized products, such as Color Clean.

If there is no such means, then the good old rule works: only scrap is against scrap. That is, you need to remove a little dye from the hair and apply it to the marginal growth and lather a little. After that, rinse with water.

Shampooing is not recommended until the dye has been removed from the skin, since many companies produce specialized technical shampoos with a fixing effect, after which the removal of the dye will be a huge problem.

9. Before using the shampoo, rinse your hair well. It is best until the moment when clean water begins to drain from the hair without a special admixture of color-dye. And only after that you can use shampoo.

• If the manufacturer produces specialized neutralizing shampoos, then it is necessary to use them. They often complement the dye and improve its durability and juiciness.
• In case the company does not produce such products, you need to use a shampoo that is suitable for the structure of the hair.

The shampoo is applied in a small amount, foamed with a light massage and washed off. Re-application is not necessary. After that, you can apply conditioner or a mask. The choice depends on the condition and structure of the hair.

10. For home care of dyed hair, it is necessary to recommend the use of products that are produced by the dye manufacturer. They, most often, complement the care with special supporting components.

When using such a line, the color will remain juicy and bright one and a half times longer than when using a care line released by another company.

Olga Kolesnikova, art director of the Cut and Color salon network, dispelled the main myths about hair coloring and shared the secrets of care.

What happens to hair during the dyeing process?

If we are talking about dyeing with permanent dyes, then ammonia or a substitute substance opens the scales, after which the dye penetrates into the hair. Under the action of hydrogen peroxide, with which the dye is mixed, the natural pigment is lightened, and in the process of oxidation, the hair acquires a new color. Of course, dyed hair needs additional care: the cuticle “tousled” with ammonia and peroxide needs to be “smoothed” with conditioners, conditioning sprays and serums. That is why even in home coloring kits there is always a hair balm.

How often should masks be done after staining?

Recommended frequency of use depends on the degree of damage to the hair. There is always an instruction on the package: as a rule, the mask should be kept from 3 to 15 minutes. There are also weekend masks - the product is left for an hour under a terry towel. If your hair has been subjected to chemical attack, use the mask as a conditioner: apply after each wash, do not stand for 3-5 minutes. Suitable for owners of thin and straight hair without volume light mask or leave-in conditioning spray.

Folk remedies in the care of dyed hair are a meaningless nod to the environment. In the most tragic cases, you can turn to salon procedures for restoration, such as oil wrap or lamination. The effect, of course, will be, but it is important to understand that it is impossible to return damaged or naturally dry and porous hair to an ideal state - you can camouflage problems and give additional strength.

Is it true that masks are best applied to dry hair?

The mask should be applied only to freshly washed hair, cleansed of the secretion of sebaceous and sweat glands, dust microparticles and styling residues, including conditioning agents. The purpose of the mask is to penetrate into the voids of the hair, moisturize, nourish, make the surface smoother and create an artificial cuticle. Using a mask on dry hair is ineffective, because we subsequently wash off most of the caring substances with shampoo.

According to most trichologists, daily washing makes the hair thinner even more, and the paint is washed out faster, but the owners oily hair I still have to wash them every day. In this case, you need to choose a good moisturizing shampoo, conditioner and additional care for the tips. To preserve color, there are tinted shampoos and air conditioners.