Edge finishing. We sew sofa cushions - with decorative edging, border (border), scallops Decorative cushions embroidered with cord
Decorative pillow with piping
Quite often, when sewing lambrequins, bedspreads and other decorative elements, such as decorative pillows, they use edging with a cord to finish.
Let us dwell in more detail on how to sew such an edging around the perimeter of a decorative pillow.
We cut a square of the desired size, not forgetting to add 2 cm for allowances. If the pillow is 40x40cm, then we cut the square 44x44cm. This will be the front of the pillow. To make it easier to sew a piping, we round the corners.
The back of the pillow consists of two parts connected by a zipper. The zipper allowance is 1cm and 3cm. For the back side of the pillow, I try to cut out the details more, then I build it along the top. If there is enough fabric, then you can simply cut out a 46x50cm rectangle and cut it into two parts, for example 46x30cm and 46x20cm. Or look at the circumstances, if you have small remnants of fabric, the main thing is that in the end, after the zipper is sewn on, the back part of the pillow is not less than 44x44cm.
After the zipper is sewn on. lay out the back of the pillowcase, and lay the top (front) part on top and base both parts along the top.
Then we take the upper part with the right side up, put the piping on it with the wrong side up, retreating from the cut of the part by 5 mm (this is done so that you can later sew the seam without any problems), and sew the piping as close as possible to the cord with a one-sided foot.
For reference: the front side of the edging
wrong side of the edge
In order to make it easier to sew on the edging on the roundings, we cut the braid in several places.
We join the cord as shown in the photo below.
Now we connect both parts of the pillowcase together. To do this, we fold them with the front sides inward and scribble close to the cord along the first line. If it works out, then it's good if the line goes to the left of the first one.
We turn out the pillowcase. As you can see, the braid remained visible.
In order for only the cord to remain visible, let's do the following: first, lay a line along the back of the pillowcase. At the same time, we turn the allowance onto the back, and let the fabric in so that the fold runs close to the cord, we also scribble as close to the cord as possible.
And now we do the same, only on the front side of the pillowcase.
Here's what should happen.
It remains to sew the pillow (you can use the leftover stitches), fill it with halofiber
and put on the finished pillowcase.
If something is not clear, ask in the comments, I will answer all your questions.
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Sincerely, Oksana Fadeeva.
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Decorative finish for furniture upholstery, curtains and lampshades.
For any interior items sewn from fabric, you can choose a finish that will emphasize their contours, highlight any individual thing, or simply decorate the drapery.
How to choose a finish
The type and weight of the decorative trim should match the fabric and overall style of the piece. For thin fabric, choose something lighter, and heavy fabric will withstand a massive finish. As a rule, voluminous classical fabrics are complemented by brilliant intricate decorations, while simple cotton fabric looks better with cotton braid. Consider also how to attach the trim. For example, a cord with a braid is sewn in the process of stitching a seam, while others are sewn over a finished seam. Check if the finish you like can be washed. Washable curtains should not be sewn on trim that requires cleaning, otherwise you will have to rip off the trim when the curtains get dirty.
Finishes
Braid(2) - dense tape; sewn in the form of a border on pillows, curtains and furniture upholstery to emphasize their shape. The width of the braid varies from 6 mm to 15 cm. It can be simple and with a complex pattern, embroidered, with a looped or serrated edge. Colored tape will add a touch of character to a plain fabric and close the seams on long curtains.
Cords and harnesses(4) sewn on like a piping make the contours of chairs, cushions and window draperies more defined. Tiebacks for curtains are made from thick cords and harnesses. Cords vary in color and texture: from natural cotton and twisted paper to luxurious chenille and gold threads. The cord on the braid (5) can be sewn into the seam.
Fringe it can be plain, made of light synthetic threads, and multi-colored, made of mixed decorative threads. Fringe made from natural threads (cotton, linen and silk) can be dyed in any color. Tinsel fringes (7) are twisted threads that are attached in the form of a fringe to the head; luxurious heavy fringe is used to trim covers for armchairs and sofas. Split fringe has a cut edge, is lighter than tinsel and is used in any products. Block fringe consists of two or more multi-colored blocks; effective finishing for plain fabric. Scalloped and fan fringe have curly edges. Fringe with tassels (8) is a row of thread tassels attached to the head. Fringe with bells - narrow braid with small pom-poms. Classic finish for cushions, lampshades and shelves.
Braid, or braid for furniture upholstery(6) are silk-braided loose cords. Used for fastening on furniture covers in the old style. Braided braid fits well on bends, so it is convenient for finishing a lambrequin with scallops.
Ribbons used as a braid, but sewn differently, because they are softer. Ribbons are simple silk and elegant velvet and brocade.
Quilling(3) - voluminous, intricately interwoven or fringed braid. Quilling is often sewn, like a piping, into the seams of sofa covers and pillows. Some types of ruffles are convenient to sew in thanks to the free stitching that fixes the edge. In the finished product, this line is ripped open, and the finish becomes more magnificent.
brushes(1) distinguish from the simplest of single threads to large, multi-colored and complex in composition.
Processing of decorative elements
How the trim is attached depends on the type of trim, location on the piece, and possible wear. Basically, four methods are used. The braid can be sewn by hand or by machine, glued, ironed with a "spider line" and basted. Let us consider the last three methods, as they are used in the models proposed below.
How to cut a string. The ends of the trimmed braid tend to crumble, and the more the longer you work. To avoid this, tightly wrap the cut with tape and cut in the middle of the winding. You can tie the cut end with a strong thread and strengthen it by lightly smearing it with ordinary glue.
Tape shrinkage. Cotton and linen braid for a product that is washed must first be seated. Lay the braid on a towel so it doesn't flatten, and steam it from the inside out. If the braid can be washed and the finished product will also be washed, soak it in hot water, dry with a towel and iron.
To connect the ends of the cords, unwind them a little. Trim the ends of the threads to different lengths and weave them together. Secure the junction with glue and wrap with thread.
To connect the ends of the cords with braid, unwind small sections and weave the threads again. Attach the ends to the braid.
To close up the fringe, tuck the edges 6 mm and hem with a blind stitch. To connect the ends, tuck the cuts, join the folds, hem the folds and allowances with a blind seam.
How to sew on a cord
The cord is sewn by hand with a hidden seam. Leave a small section of the seam unsewn or slightly open the seam of the finished product, cut the cord 5 cm longer than necessary. Tuck the end of the cord into the seam and attach it at the bottom. Sew the cord along the seam with short stitches. Tuck the other end into the open seam, carefully sew the ends of the cord. If sewing is inconvenient due to the shape and rigidity of the product - for example, along the edge of a chair - use a curved needle.
Cord with braid sewn into the seam, like a piping, slightly fitting it at the corners. The ends are tucked into the seam. To increase the length of the cord, the ends are joined or sewn with an overlap.
How to sew on a fringe
Attaching. Sew the fringe into a narrow hem close to both edges.
Sew by hand on the finished product, if it is inconvenient to sew on the machine. Sew the fringe to the upholstery with a curved needle.
Sewing in a seam. A light fringe with a smooth head can be sewn into the seam. Lay the head of the fringe with the right side over the seam allowance on the right side of the product. Cut to desired length, leaving 6 mm for hem ends. Tuck in the ends and baste the fringe. Lay the lining on top, face down. Stitch along the edges of the fringe head.
How to sew a piping with your own hands? This is one of the most common types of decoration, both clothing and accessories. Kant meets in clothes different styles for people of all ages. It is the edging that gives a professional look to bags and covers, pillows and bedspreads.
Our master class will tell you how to make a piping with your own hands and sew it in several ways.
How to sew a piping: preparation for work
How to sew a piping with your own hands? Clothing piping and decorative piping are different from each other. For clothes, use a colored strip of fabric cut along the oblique. A flat edging consists only of such a strip folded in two layers, and a voluminous one with a cord inserted inside. In our master class, we will tell you how to sew a voluminous edging with your own hands.Decorative edges for finishing accessories already have a thickening on one side, similar to a thick twisted cord. This cord can be plain or with decorative threads. On the other side of such a piping is a braid. Ready-made piping can be of all kinds of colors and patterns, but sewing piping with your own hands is not at all difficult.
The main rule for sewing piping is that the fabric should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, obliquely.
The length of this strip should be slightly longer than the length of the surface being processed by the edging. If it is not possible to cut out a whole strip, it can be sewn from several strips, joining them diagonally and ironing the allowances. The width of the strip depends on which piping you will be sewing: 2-2.5 cm for a flat piping will be enough. For bulk edging, the stripe width will depend on which line you will be using.
We recommend making a small sample: wrap the cord with a cloth, chop or baste close to the cord and set aside the desired width of the allowance from the basting. For the convenience of subsequent work, the width of the allowance should match the width of the allowances on the part to which the edging will be sewn. Cut the sample along the marked line, remove the basting, open the fabric and measure the width of the strip.
So, let's take a closer look at how to make and sew a piping with your own hands!
Making piping
Prepare the cord and a strip of fabric of the desired length. Cut the fabric along the bias, the width of the fabric should be equal to the diameter of the cord plus a double allowance.
Pin and baste the piping by inserting the cord into the strip folded in half.
Sew along the piping using the zipper foot. Lay the line as close to the cord as possible.
Baste the piping on the front side of the part, aligning the allowances.
Piping on a straight seam
Sew. Unfold the part and iron the allowances to the side.
On a concave seam
Cut the edge allowance with triangles, not reaching the line 3-4 mm. Take it in. Continue as with a straight seam.
On a folded seam
Notch the edge allowance, not reaching the line 3-4 mm. Take it in. Continue as with a straight seam.
Right angle
Cut the allowance, not reaching the line 2-3 mm. Bend the piping and baste. Continue as with a straight seam.
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Sewing pillows with your own hands means not only saving on bedding, but also decorating your interior, giving it a personality with simple and inexpensive means. Looking at photos of homemade pillows on the Internet, it may seem that a lot of experience or innate talent is needed here. But the same tasks can be solved much easier, and certainly, when sewing pillows, there is an opportunity to go from simple to complex, eventually creating things worthy of prizes at exhibitions of amateur art. This article is intended to help readers overcome several stages of this path.
What you need to know right away
It is not always possible to sew original pillows as simple sleeping pillows, in the form of a base and pillowcases. That's why special attention should be paid to the choice of fabric and padding. The pillow is conducive to sleep, and someone will fall asleep on it sometime. Probably tired, with unwashed and unkempt hair; That is, the sheathing fabric should not only accept the finish well, but also be amenable to cleaning. And best of all, the stuffing can be removed and the cover washed without spoiling its decor. In addition, the stuffing itself should retain hygienic qualities, elasticity and be moderately pliable for as long as possible. We will return to pillow materials that meet these requirements, but for now we will discuss ways to decorate them from simple to complex, keeping the above in mind.
Pillow Decorating Methods
Colors
The easiest way to sew decorative pillows in the same way as ordinary sleeping pillows is to choose the color of the fabric. And the simplest of the simplest solutions - several pillows of different colors, forming an ensemble inscribed in the interior. In this way, you can not only turn the boudoir of a cocotte into something similar to a soft fluffy cloud, but also express the individuality of laconic interior styles. Such work, I must say, is mentally very difficult, but technologically and financially elementary. For example, on the left in Fig. the sofa with a composition of pillows is not in vain placed against the backdrop of a window (picture?) with live greenery contrasting with the general tone, and the flower in a vase is placed to the right of the sofa for good reason.
In the center in Fig. a method based on similar aesthetic principles, but not requiring a laconic interior and a special organization for the placement of its objects. The point here is that the background of the upholstery of the furniture and the upholstery of the pillow is the same, as well as the tone and density of the pattern here and there, but the patterns of the patterns are somewhat different. And the pillow is highlighted with a wide, so-called. French, edging, the same as the general background, but darker in color; the color scheme is slightly lighter on the lower and side parts of the furniture upholstery.
Finally, on the right in Fig. shows a way to give the pillow a choice of fabric colors, as they say, aesthetic self-sufficiency, i.e. the ability to express the meaning inherent in it by the craftswoman in any situation. Imagine such a pillow in ... a garbage dump. Will she look worse? And the point here is not only and not so much in the choice of 2-3, no more, catchy flowers that make up a fairly large pattern, but also in the arrangement of stylized images of flowers on the visible surface of the thing.
Applications and printing
Only a little more technically, but no less expressive, can be decorating pillows with appliqués. Here, as before. case, the key to success is the artistic taste of the author and, preferably, the combination of at least 2 things in an ensemble, and, unlike the use of colors, its meaning can be absolutely clear up to frivolity, as on the left in a row of photos, but obscene morally healthy a person in this composition will see no more than in normal marital relations.
A detailed, multi-valued composition of pillows with appliqués is technically more difficult to perform, and there is a risk of falling into flickering. However, today photo printing on fabric is affordable, and the images are durable and of the same quality as the texture of the material allows. So, when considering a multi-cushion group with pictures, first of all, it is worth considering the option of photo printing on blanks, in the center in the figure, especially since you can select / create pictures and simulate the entire ensemble in advance on a computer.
Note: modern technique of photo printing on fabric allows you to create images that are visually equivalent to embroideries. Patches with printed pictures can also form the basis of the application, on the right in fig.
Shape and Fragment
Majority good designers prefers to work with the form, considering it to be the root cause of the expressiveness of things, and color, texture and drawing/pattern as factors of the next orders. One-two-three-tone sofa cushions, the aesthetic value of which is achieved by the form, can also be technologically uncomplicated (item 1 in the figure) due to the use of modern materials, see below.
Working with the form, it becomes possible to apply a new approach to the meaningful decoration of things: modularity, pos. 2. Technologically, in this case, only the labor intensity increases monotonously without the appearance of fundamental difficulties, since all modules assembled into the product are structurally similar and simple. But in such cases, you need to think about how to clean it, unless there is a desire to completely redo it at least once every 1-2 years. A furniture vacuum cleaner and cleaning products for it are understandable, but it is necessary to use them less often.
The modular principle also allows, without a significant increase in labor intensity, to create sewn things of a simple form, in which the form nevertheless works for aesthetics. This is the so-called. patchwork technique; simply - patchwork. Patchwork is not necessarily something deliberately rough, rough, even clumsy.
Decorative pillows using the patchwork technique, it is possible to sew elegant and neat without painful thoughts and looking at samples / sketches until it hurts in the eyes, pos. 3 and 4. All you need is a key element (mainly in the center), which is in harmony with the overall design of the thing, but also stands out in something. At pos. 3 this is achieved by a pattern of the same tone, but much larger than that of the elements of one diagonal and at the same time, of course, smaller than the solid color fill of the squares of the other. And on pos. Key 4, on the contrary, is distinguished by its shape, small size and relief (bulge).
Key element
In general, a compact key element (elements) is able to give grace to a pillow made in any technique. For example, at pos. Fig. 1, the key is a simple button combined with a twist of patches of fabric with a trivial black and white geometric pattern, down to scraps of an old mattress. In the case of using a brighter and more colorful material instead of a button covered with fabric, it is possible that better fit button with a round pleated bow, pos. 4.
At pos. 2 tassels and a button ennoble cushions in modestly colored fabric. This approach is attractive in that it is possible to use furniture upholstery and even technical fabrics that do not get dirty easily, clean well, but are not produced bright and shiny. And on pos. 3 is an example of how brushes add aesthetic value to a pillow with a pattern that is too small for this purpose. Perhaps the larger pattern did not suit the overall design, but the pillow still needed decorative self-sufficiency, so the brushes came to the rescue.
Note: a single brush on the corner of the pillow can play, without losing its aesthetic value, a purely utilitarian role, hiding the last seam, see below. In this case, it can be successfully replaced with a pom-pom. How to make a brush and a pompom with your own hands, see next. fig., but in general, with tassels and pompoms as numerous elements of the main decoration of pillows, you need to be more careful, see below.
Lace, knitting and embroidery
All these ways of decorating pillows (see fig.) have in common that things, on the one hand, are laborious and difficult to perform (unless ready-made lace or organdy is used). On the other hand, lace and knitted cushions on the sofa provide not only a magnificent aesthetic effect, but also respect with prestige: complex high-quality work speaks for itself. Moreover, all such things are cleaned and washed many times: people have been weaving lace and knitting for centuries; both craftsmanship is quite adapted to washing much more harshly than in a modern washing machine with synthetic detergents.
Knitted sofa cushions have another advantage: the last seam is masked without any difficulties, see below. And by the way, thanks to the same circumstance, knitted decorative pillows can be very easy to make if you sew them from old sweaters, as on the right in Fig.
About knitwear
Knitwear as a material for covering the pillow retains all the advantages of knitted items, incl. the ability to conduct a hidden facial seam. It also has its own special merits. Firstly, the softness of the surface - wool sometimes “bites” the face, and knitting from mohair or down is more difficult. Secondly, accessibility: who hasn’t had to guess what to do with a grown-up child’s sweaters-blouses? Stuff with holofiber (see below), sew up the armholes, embellish a little - and in an hour and a half a good original pillow made from improvised materials is ready, see fig. Whether it fits in the living room is a matter of general design, but as a pillow in the nursery it will be quite in its place. You can also sleep on it without risking button prints on your cheek: turn it over, and that's it.
About embroidery on pillows
For those who know how to embroider, a pillow is a fertile canvas in all respects, see fig.:
If you want to embroider over the entire field, you will need a special hoop in the form of a frame; the canvas in it is stretched (unhoisted) with harsh threads. Drawing, pattern - everything is at your discretion and skill, but there are some features compared to embroidery of other things:
- No need to embroider with beads, it will be unhygienic and uncomfortable. It is impossible to completely remove particles of dirt from the holes in the beads using any known methods of cleaning pillows, and lying down on the beaded surface is also not very pleasant;
- Cross-stitch: satin stitch embroidery under the head/body quickly gets dirty and slips, and wrinkles when washed;
- When embroidering all over the field, make a continuous wide edging: it is just as easy to hide the last seam in it as in a knitted pillow.
Relief
Relief decor: fringe, bows, frills, puffs, intarsia, weaving, voluminous applications(patches), quilting, etc., etc., see fig. - widely used for finishing pillows, because. allows you to achieve stunning aesthetic effects. However, when starting your first (or next) masterpiece, keep in mind, firstly, that to create beauty by the method “I want a lot of everything! And more!”, is not true in principle. You need to understand what you feel, what you want, and express it in the means available to you. Which do not necessarily have to be tricky and intricate.
Secondly, remember - you are not the trusted seamstress of the Marquise Pompadour or the Countess de Monsoreau. The charm created by your own hands, which you once could not even erase. And the point is not only whether this thing will withstand washing, but also whether the machine will withstand washing such a thing. Not that, the hour is uneven, you will have to master interesting ones, but in no way simple ways repair washing machines. Tassel fringe can still be torn off and sewn on again, but for a soiled, labor-intensive pom-pom pillow, it’s hard to think of something better than throwing it away and making a new one. If the spirit is enough for it after such an opportunity.
However, to dissuade people from striving for beauty is meaningless, and worthless. So about every case in Fig. above - 2 ways to make roses from felt or cotton pads. Such flowers, if necessary, are easy to rip, and then re-sew. Or just make new ones to replace worn ones.
And in fig. on the right - advice about bows: take the same principle of conciseness as a basis, it will never fail, and make bows simple so that they can be untied and tied to take care of the pillow. That pillow is made of burlap, but does it look?
About puffs
Puffs on a suitable fabric, smooth and glossy, are another matter. Properly made, they can be vacuumed and washed by hand without any problems. And to make all this splendor is not at all as difficult as it seems. First you need to learn how to read the schemes for assembling puffs (assembling them, as the sewers say).
For an example, schemes for assembling simple puffs are given in fig. below. All puff schemes are built on an orthogonal-diagonal grid, the module of which (the side of the square) is 2-7 cm, depending on the size of the product and the density of the fabric. The grid in the diagram can be shown explicitly, as on the right in the figure, or its nodes are only marked with dots, as on the left. The mesh is applied to the inside of the workpiece with a textile marker in a mirror image.
Further, the areas that are pulled together (collected, collected) into a puff are marked either with converging arrows (on the left) or red lines (on the right), and those that are not pulled together are marked with simple thin lines. You can collect puffs either with one thread or separately. The first way is for the lazy, because a web of threads is formed from the inside. In any case, each puff is assembled with at least 3 stitches 4-5 mm wide, unless otherwise indicated in the notes to the diagram.
Then, the assembly sequence. It is produced in horizontal or vertical rows, again, unless otherwise indicated in the description of the scheme. In the case when the rows are indicated explicitly (on the left), they are displayed in the order of numbering and puffs in the row are also collected by numbers; here - Row1 1-2, 3-4, etc., then the same Row2 and so on. In the absence of an explicit indication of the rows (on the right), the puffs will be assembled simply in the order of numbering; according to the diagram on the right - 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, etc.
Try to collect any piece of fabric in puffs according to these entry-level schemes, and you will see that it will take a little time, even if you collect one at a time. And then watching a selection of master classes on making pillows with puffs that are much more spectacular and complex will not seem like a nightmarish horror:
Video: do-it-yourself puff pillows, master classes
About figurine pillows
The principle “You don’t need a lot of things! And sooner!” especially appropriate for decorative pillows, aesthetically working primarily in form. They are often sewn according to patterns for soft toys, forgetting that a sewn cat cannot wash itself under its tail. And he will have to take on not only room dust, but also grease. Perhaps, especially when it comes to children's pillows, so to speak, salvo emissions of pollution of biogenic origin.
On children's pillows, in addition, not only jump and ride on them; they not only fight and throw them, they also sleep on them. And a dream, leaning sideways, with a head that has moved to one side, is in no way useful to the emerging skeleton. This should be especially taken into account when sewing a children's toy pillow; For example, we give patterns in Fig.
On the left is a fish pillow. The shape and technique of execution seem to be chosen correctly: it is quite subject to care, the last seam can be covered with a tail or fins. But - the head of a sleeping person can slide to one side, a shoulder will stretch behind it and it turns out that we are sleeping crouched. An owl pillow is free from this drawback, at the top right: the “ears” will be held. Whoever tosses and turns in a dream is better to put such a pillow with a deflection between the “ears” to the neck; this pattern is easy to adapt for a cat pillow, only without a tail. In either case, for better ergonomics, it is desirable to make a diagonal cut as a bedding, see below.
Note: for kids - indefatigable sleepy little spinners at the bottom right, a pattern of a special pillow on which the child learns to sleep on his back or on his side, freely stretched out.
Pillows in the form of letters (see Fig.) Moved even closer from pillows to soft toys than figurine pillows: there are a lot of dips in them, where to sleep there. It is believed that letter pillows are educational, developing, etc. Well, except for the coordination of movements and orientation in space, to climb between them big, like in a maze. As for the speedy learning to read and write, science has not yet been confirmed. Nevertheless, no harm from pillows in the form of letters was also noted, and fun for the child is already good for him.
Large letter cushions must hold their shape well and withstand the corresponding operational stresses, with which little users show amazing ingenuity. One of the variants of this kind of construction is shown in Fig.:
Foam 45 is the highest density furniture foam; we will talk about what holofiber is below. Of course, other ways of sewing letter pillows are also possible, see for example. next video.
Note: diagram in fig. also suitable for stuffing pillows, rolls, if you want to get their ends rounded.
Video: do-it-yourself letter pillows, manufacturing option
About puzzle pillows
Pillow in the form of elements of prefabricated mosaic paintings Puzzle is also quite popular. It is believed that if necessary, a mattress can be assembled from them. You can collect something, yes, yes. But anyone who has tried to sleep on such a mattress knows: it is impossible, it is spreading under you. Pillows, unlike puzzle pieces, are soft, pliable, otherwise not pillows, but some kind of bunks will turn out.
Materials and technique
The fact that when sewing it is necessary to give lapels of 20-30 mm, iron them, sew from the inside out and then turn the product inside out, etc., which is well known, we will not spread. Let's talk in this section about things that beginner seamstresses are not always aware of.
Textile
To properly sew a pillow without a pillowcase that is comfortable, hygienic, practical and durable, you need to choose the right fabric. Firstly, particles of dirt should not stick to its fibers so that they can be sucked out with a vacuum cleaner without the use of detergents. Secondly, the lining fabric should, as far as possible, prevent the migration of dirt into the packing, which is difficult to clean and change. Silk, satin, crepe-satin and their synthetic counterparts satisfy these conditions from light, smooth and bright textile materials. From light, but soft - coarse calico, baize and other linen fabrics. From rough, but very durable - any furniture upholstery materials. Also, depending on the style of execution, it is possible to use any technical fabrics, except, perhaps, propylene matting and the like - too slippery, but at the same time rough and harsh.
Warp and weft
When cutting a pillow, the orientation of the warp and weft threads of the fabric matters. Orthogonal (straight) orientation, when the warp and weft are oriented perpendicular (along) resp. sides, allows you to more accurately maintain the shape of the pillow according to the pattern. But if the pillow straight cutting with sharp corners is stuffed with sufficiently dense material, its corners may be empty and sag, pos. 1 in fig.
In pillows with a diagonal cut (warp and weft - at 45 degrees to the sides), the corners will always be full, but a “waist” will appear larger than provided by the pattern, pos. 2. If the pillow is elongated, the thinnest "waist" will be on the long sides, pos. 3, which is not always desirable. In this case, the use of satin or twill weave fabric will help to give the pillow a pleasant fullness, pos. 4.
Stuffing
However, feather / down stuffing, firstly, is not elastic enough for decorative pillows; Secondly, small soft feathers and natural down for stuffing pillows are hard to reach. In the old days, the whole family collected feathers and down for the wedding featherbed (an indispensable attribute of the dowry) for the future bride.
Nowadays, almost ideal stuffing materials for pillows have been developed - syntepuh and holofiber. In terms of hygiene, they are not inferior to swan's down; however, not for the lifetime of generations, but up to 7-10 years. On the other hand, the pillow decor is no longer alive. But these materials have an undoubted advantage: they are moderately elastic and retain this quality for years.
In essence, sintepukh and holofiber are the same material based on the finest tangled polyester fibers; This is the same polyethylene terephthalate (PET) used to make food utensils and bottles. Sintepuh is produced in the form of fluffy granules (on the left in the figure), and holofiber undergoes additional molding and goes on sale in sheets (plates), on the right there.
Sheet holofiber keeps its shape no worse than the best furniture foam rubber. By the way, in letter pillows (see above), you can make the entire base out of it, but it will cost a lot: sheet holofiber is much more expensive than foam rubber, and the material waste in this case is large. But where sheet holofiber is indispensable is in the manufacture of cloud pillows, etc. of complex irregular shape: the workpiece must be cut with scissors, and then covered with a cloth without a pattern in place.
Another stuffing material particularly suitable for baby pillows is round silicone granules. They don't get wet, this time. Two - silicone granules can be poured into the cover through an armhole that is only 2-4 cm wide, which greatly simplifies the problem of the last seam. Three - the cover from them can be emptied through the same armhole, and the granules can be washed by hand in a basin. In the car - in no case, it will fail instantly! Washed and dried silicone granules can be put back into the same bag; the pillow will be the same as before.
Note: to expanded polystyrene granules, which fill frameless furniture, all of the above regarding the sanitary and hygienic properties of silicone granules does not apply.
Last seam...
... he is the most difficult. You probably already guessed that this is the very seam that needs to be sewn up from the face when the pillow is already inside out and stuffed. Usually for this it is recommended to sew a zipper in advance. With regard to, say, a pear chair or other frameless furniture, this is really the best option.
But the pillow does not have a bottom and a back, on which they never sit, do not sleep, do not lean on them, and waking up with the imprint of a fastener on your cheek is useless under any circumstances. As for the representatives of the stronger sex, a pillow with a zipper is able to cling to their mustache, beard and just 3-5 day stubble. The pillow sticking to the personality harmonizes perfectly with the rumpled physiognomy, but only in a comical sense.
There is no problem at all with knitted, knitted and embroidered pillows with edging, if the thread for the last seam is taken to match the material of the face: stitches of only 1-2 mm in this case are completely drawn into it and turn out to be quite strong. Good options are also a solid narrow textile piping in tone with the general color, see fig., lace or pleated border, inlay, etc. However one-stop solution the last seam is narrow, 2-4 cm, armhole in the corner. Through it, you can fill the pillow with sintepuh or silicone granules, and mask the front seam with a brush or pompom. Sintepukh, if necessary, is pulled out in shreds with a crochet hook. At first, silicone granules are simply squeezed out, like paste from a tube, and their remainder is removed from the inside-out cover.
About seamless pillows
Representatives of nomadic professions and residents of student hostels from times up to the middle of Khrushchev's have long been familiar with such people. beautiful scarf allows you to make decorative seamless pillows in just minutes; the basis can be either an ordinary pillow or a piece of foam rubber cut in shape or just a lump of rags. How this magnificent illustration of the saying “Need for inventions is cunning” is created is shown in the figure:
You can tie a curly knot or straighten its ends into a socket and grab it with threads; however, this will be a formal violation of the “seamless” principle. In this case, something like a rose from those described above will also fit in the center.
