How to make a pattern for a jacket for a woman. Ready-made pattern of a women's windbreaker
Something insanely complex, then, believe me, you were wrong. In our time, and even more so with our prices, this skill will be very useful. It will be enough just to know the basic principles of sewing, to have the desire and patience so that sewing a jacket does not cause you great difficulties.
The truth about tailoring
Sewing outerwear is likely to interest almost every woman who loves to sew. Naturally, if you have taken up this business for the first time, it will seem to you that it is very difficult. But, believe me, this is only the first impression. So feel free to take on this business - you will succeed.
Think about the fact that with this product you will not have to suffer very much, glue small details, and if suddenly there are some minor flaws, they can easily be hidden under the lining.
Each modern woman in the wardrobe you can find all sorts of different jackets, raincoats and fur coats. And every fashionista does not miss the chance to treat herself to a new thing.
But why not stop spending extra money on expensive purchases, and just wonder how to sew a jacket.
Moreover, it is worth noting that you do not need to have any special knowledge and extensive experience in tailoring things. Actually the secret is simple. The most important thing in tailoring a jacket is, following the rules, to clearly and correctly make a pattern, given your size.
You will also need to decide on the main material from which you want to sew your jacket, as well as prepare other fabrics and accessories, such as synthetic winterizer, lining, various zippers and fasteners suitable for sewing a needle and thread.
After that, it remains only to decide on the style of your future jacket. After you have finally decided and weighed everything, following the recommendations, you can start sewing your new clothes, and then you will definitely succeed.
Technology and secrets of sewing
Believe me, there is nothing to fear here. The first thing any person is afraid of is simple and banal uncertainty, but it’s worth seeing the detailed one once. step by step instructions the whole process of work to understand: in fact, nothing is easier.
It is also important to decide what kind of accessories you need. If you are planning to sew a sports-style jacket, then the fastener is best for you. If you suddenly cannot get a zipper, replace it with buttons. And if you do not have access to them, then take the buttons.
Jackets for women, their types and features
First of all, decide what exactly you want. After all, all jackets are so different, each in its own way is unique and beautiful. Every woman of fashion in her wardrobe, as a rule, can find more than one, not two, and even not even five jackets and coats of various styles and tailoring. And no matter how many there are, each of them means something and is designed for a special occasion. In any case, you can’t exactly call any of them superfluous.
Light jackets
Now consider an example of how to sew a light jacket.
You will need the following materials:
- Cloak fabric.
- Interlining.
- Lightning 60 cm.
- Buttons.
- Threads.
- Sewing machine.
How to sew a jacket? We begin the process by sewing the lining. To begin with, we sew shelves with selections. Then we sew the side parts to the center of the shelves. After you need to stitch the darts. Sew side seams and shoulders. Carefully sew on the sleeves.
Top of the jacket: sew the center of the shelves and side parts. We sew darts. Why we sew shoulder parts, sides of the shelf and back. Then sew on the sleeves.
jacket collar: You need to measure the size of the neck. The size of the finished collar should be 6 cm. Depending on the size of the neckline, you need to cut a strip of fabric so large that the finished part is 6 cm. But do not forget to add 1 cm for the seams.
In order to sew in a zipper, use a helium pen or chalk to mark the place on the right and left sides on the jacket shelves. And carefully sew it on.
Jacket pocket: cut out a pocket for our jacket in the shape you want. We cut out the lining of the same shape. We connect both parts. Sew a finishing seam of about 1 cm along the top of the pocket. Gently mark the place where you will sew it on the shelf with chalk. Then carefully attach it.
Belt: cut out a strip of fabric 9 cm wide. We put interlining on the upper part of the belt, bend it along and iron it with an iron. We fold the edges inward and sew with a finishing seam.
Assembling the jacket: You need to sew on the lining, starting from the sleeves. Bottom to bottom. And so on neatly and evenly every detail.
Sew the collar to the neck. Wasting the finishing seam along the collar and shelves. We do the same from the bottom of the sleeves. We bend the bottom of the jacket and also carefully hem it.
Our jacket is ready. Now you know everything about how to sew a jacket.
Warm jackets
The most famous type of insulation in the world is synthetic winterizer. This material is easy to work with, easy to find in any store, and besides, it has a reasonable price. But still it has its drawbacks. At low temperatures, it loses its thermal properties and deteriorates from a hot iron and steam. It also loses thickness over time, especially after washing.
How to properly sew a product with insulation, consider the example of sewing a jacket for a boy.
Jackets for children
It is also easy to make a jacket for your child. So, let's figure out how to sew a jacket for a boy with your own hands.
For this you will need:
- Jacket fabric.
- Lining.
- Lightning.
-
- Threads.
- Pattern paper.
When cutting out details, do not forget that you need to leave 1 cm for the seams. Transfer the pattern to paper.
From the fabric for the jacket and from the lining we cut out the following details:
- Back - 1 pc.
- Before - 2 pcs.
- Sleeve - 2 pcs.
- Hood - 2 pcs.
Sewing a jacket
We connect the back and sleeves. From the main jacket fabric we sew the sides and sleeves at the same time. We do the same actions with the lining.
On the back of the jacket, mark the middle. We connect the seam of the hood with the middle of the back. We put a lining inside the hood. On the front parts, allowances of 1 cm wide will have to be left for sewing in the zipper. The remaining edges at the bottom of the zipper are carefully folded over.
We fold the rubber cuffs in half and sew in the same way as the hood.
After that, we carefully attach the zipper, while stepping back from the bottom of the jacket 3 cm.
It remains only to carefully hem the bottom of our jacket. The product is ready.
Leather jackets
Let's learn how to sew a leather jacket.
Many people think that a leather jacket is a terribly difficult task. But if you set a goal and approach this issue as correctly as possible, then there really are no difficulties in this.
If you have basic sewing skills, know how to work with patterns, then maybe it's time to try something new. Leather work has its own characteristics:
In no case should leather fabric be basted with a needle, since the needle puncture sites will remain forever.
In order to fasten two parts together, you can use superglue or different clips.
When working with patterns, you need to take into account the density of the skin. If it is too soft, then more space should be left for the seams.
How to sew a jacket with your own hands
When all the patterns are transferred to paper, all the nuances are taken into account and finalized, you can try to start sewing. Try to lay out the patterns on the fabric as sparingly as possible. Use chalk to circle all the details. This can be done both from the wrong side and from the front side. Since our material is very soft and easy to stretch, all the details must be duplicated with a special fabric - dublerin. It can be bought at any specialized store. To give the skin extra volume, glue the skin with foam rubber in the places you need and carefully sew.
As carefully as possible, connect all the parts of the jacket. Sew on sleeves and collar.
We cut out the same details from the lining fabric as from the main one. We connect all the details of the lining. Then very carefully sew the lining fabric to the main product. It's best to start with the sleeves. Then along the bottom of the jacket, then the shelves and the neck. This is how easy it is to sew a jacket with your own hands.
Winter jackets
If you want a synthetic winterizer jacket, the question you need to decide is: what material to choose for sewing? Basically, such products are sewn from artificial leather or raincoat fabric. There is, of course, a difference in price, so first decide how much you are willing to spend on fabric.
Once you have chosen the fabric, you can get to work. So, how to sew a jacket on a padding polyester with your own hands?
For this jacket you will need:
- artificial leather- 2.5 m.
- fabric for lining - 2.2 m.
- synthetic winterizer 200 - 2.5 m.
- raincoat fabric - 1 m.
- 80 cm long zipper.
- standard zippers for pockets - 2 pcs.
How to sew a jacket on a synthetic winterizer
We transfer the pattern sample to paper. Then we cut out the details of our product from the insulation and the main fabric. All parts are interconnected with pins, taking into account the places for seams.
Quilt each detail along the marking lines, marking them in advance on the front side of the fabric. For this, of course, better fit artificial leather, because, making notes on the front side, they are then easy to wash off. If you are working with another fabric and cannot make marks on the face, then do it from the wrong side of the fabric, then sweep, and only then sew along with the padding polyester.
To make the side pockets of the jacket you will need:
- 2 parts of the pocket from the main fabric, the lining and from the insulation (moreover, you need to take only half of the insulation layer, i.e. carefully divide the padding layer manually into 2 equal thicknesses).
- 2 parts of the strip (to add volume) from the main and from the lining fabric.
For each detail, do not forget to leave room for an allowance - 1.5 cm each.
We quilt, and then sew the details of the strip to the pockets from the insulation. We do the same actions with the details of the strips and pockets made of lining fabric. We connect the details of the pockets from the lining and the main fabric with the front sides and sew them together. Turn the finished pockets through the cut.
We sew ready-made pockets to our jacket, bending the edges in order to hide the lining.
All prepared and pre-quilted parts of our product are carefully connected and sewn together.
Tailoring the hood
Cut out the details of the hood from black raincoat fabric and sew them together. For the inside of the hood, we cut the same parts from another fabric and carefully sew them into the middle of the hood, then turn them inside out. We attach both lower parts of our hood to the middle of the neck of the jacket.
We cut out the details for the bottom of our jacket and facing. We connect them with the front sides with the bottom of the jacket and sew.
For a hanger loop, you need to cut a piece of fabric in the form of a 1x8 cm strip. Of course, you can buy finished part, for example, in the form of a chain.
We sew it in the middle while connecting the details of the facing and the edges.
In order to sew a zipper into the product, we apply our zipper face to face on the left and right part of our jacket and carefully sew them. Before applying the zipper, step back from the bottom of the jacket 1 cm. This is done so that the finished product does not stick out at the bottom due to the fastener.
In the same way, we carefully sew the details of the lining of our jacket. Sew on the lining, starting from the bottom of the jacket. Then we sew the sleeves from the main fabric and the lining and connect them to the jacket.
Now the jacket is ready.
Demi-season jackets
It will also be useful to learn how to sew a jacket for spring with your own hands.
With the onset of warm days, I want to take off heavy fur coats and jackets and put on light and spring ones. If you are tired of your old things, you can try to make such a jacket yourself.
For work you will need:
Synthetic leather;
Sintepon;
Lining fabric;
Zip fastening;
Short zippers for pockets.
Transfer patterns to paper. Then carefully redraw on the fabric and cut out.
Parts list:
Back - 2 children. middle part, 2 children. sides, 1 child. undercut with a fold;
Shelves - 2 children. sides, 2 children. middle part, 2 children. central part, 2 children. planks;
Collar.
We connect the details of the back of the jacket with pins, then carefully stitch and iron.
In the same way, we outline or connect the details of the middle part of the shelves with the side ones with pins and also stitch them.
Baste the details of the shelf plank together, sew. Then process the darts and iron towards the center.
Then alternately connect the parts from the lining and the main fabric together.
We prepare and cut it out of fabric. We connect and sew the parts of the stand, sewing a collar between them.
Then we sew the details of the finished product from the lining and from the main fabric. We do the same with the details of the sleeves and carefully sew them into the middle of the jacket.
How to sew a jacket with your own hands, patterns will tell you in more detail.
Everyone knows that all good things come to an end. And no matter how much we love warm summer days, cold autumn and winter evenings will definitely come after them. With the onset of cold weather, we have to spend money on warm jackets and raincoats. But why not try to make such products yourself? It's also not as difficult as some people think. All you need for this is to have at least the slightest knowledge of the features of the cut.
Pattern examples
Consider the most common options for patterns of autumn and winter jackets. Let's give an example of how to sew a jacket according to a photo of patterns.
You don't have to throw money away on expensive fashion magazines. It is enough just to start your collection of patterns and pamper yourself with new clothes when you feel like it.
When you think about sewing outerwear with your own hands, the main criterion for you is the quality and style of the product. You will not be able to sew such a thing on your own ("out of your head"). So first you have to stock up on patterns. If you spend your time and effort on work, you will succeed in everything. And you can proudly brag to your friends that this is your job.
When it's raining or windy, but warm enough for a jacket coat, most girls prefer to wear windbreakers. Even for older women, these are practical and comfortable clothes. Jeans are perfect for her, short or long skirts and dresses.
In stores, it is not always possible to choose your size, height, favorite color or desired style, which is why it is so valuable to cut out and sew a women's windbreaker with your own hands. This item will become versatile and stylish in any wardrobe.
You can find a wide range in stores, we will focus only on popular models:
- Classic – light jacket with a fitted or straight silhouette with zippers or buttons. Most often, these models are sewn from raincoat fabric.
- shortened model more often girls wear under jeans or fluffy light skirts and miniskirts. These products are best made from eco-leather or denim.
- Biker jacket- a stylish youth jacket, the leader of the world catwalks. Lightning in them is located diagonally. Looks great in a business or sports style.
- Quilted windbreaker- the warmest option among other products. Goes well with anything. Any materials are suitable: from knitwear to leather.
- Lightweight windbreakers can be a decoration evening dress or maxi skirts. This is a great solution for cool summer evenings. A clutch bag can be a bright accent.
- park models new models for all ages. The style of jackets has now moved to windbreakers. Fabrics are needed dense and without shine.
When you sew by yourself, you can choose any model, or even create two fashion items for the price of one.
You can take an old sweatshirt, jacket, sweater or other clothes as a basis. But in order for the windbreaker to sit perfectly, it is better to take measurements and build a pattern. They are especially important if you want to sew an elongated fitted model.
The measurements are always the same: waist, hips, circle chest, need shoulder Width, and the length of the sleeve and be sure the length of your product.
On windbreakers don't make cuts which are required for a dress or blouse (on chest or waist). It's theirs main feature, which will facilitate the creation of patterns.
Attention! The length of the sleeve is measured from the top of the shoulder through the elbow (the arm should be half-bent) and below the wrist by 5-6 cm. Otherwise, the arm will be short in the finished product!
How to cut a women's windbreaker?
Consider step by step how to create a pattern for the most in a simple way. A novice craftswoman can easily cope with it.
Open shelves
First, you should build a pattern of shelves on paper or newspaper, but ideal templates are best done on graph paper.
Our drawing is a rectangle.
Short sides of the rectangle(A-D) should be equal to the half-girth of the chest + 5-10 cm, so that the product freely fits the figure. But note that a lot depends on the chosen style of the windbreaker.
The long sides of the drawing (D-N), respectively, will be equal to the length of the future product.
How to build windbreaker pattern for women?
- We start from the top of the constructed drawing. So on distance 25-30 cm, and with a large size you need 35-40 cm, we draw a straight line. This will be the chest line (B-C).
- Then the resulting straight line must be divided: that is, the width of the back and the armhole zone (this is the half-girth of the chest, divided by 4 + 2 cm). It turns out front shelf products.
- We build a neck. From the corner you need to step back about 6 cm, then deepen it in front by 5-6 cm. Then draw a neck along the back, just 1 cm higher than the rectangle, you need to step back 4-5 cm from the corner.
- Further from extreme points lined neck carry out shoulder seams. To do this, we underestimate them by about by 1.5 cm ( you need to step back from the top of the rectangle).
- Next, you need to find the middle of the armhole on straight B-C(chest lines), for this you need to lower the straight lines from the shoulders down. We make smooth semicircles, an armhole is formed.
- With a shortened windbreaker (above the hips), provided that the hip circumference is equal to the chest (hourglass type), the pattern is ready.
- If the figure is “guitar”, i.e. the hips are wider than the volume of the chest, then you need to make a flare side cut (M-O) for the difference. Drop out armhole midpoints(M) to the sides for the difference.
Thus, we received the patterns of the shelves of the future windbreakers (front and back).
Important! When cutting on fabric, do not forget to add 2-3 cm allowances on all sides.
Sleeves
We proceed to the sleeve of the product. Professional cutters use different ways construction of patterns of sleeves. The main principle is that the collar of the sleeve must exactly fit into the hole on the front and back.
To do this, the finished drawings of the shelves must be combined on the shoulders, then transfer the line received armholes products separately on paper. Then we round off on the pattern at the shoulder.
Then along the top you need to step back up 1.5 cm and round off smoothly. For control, make a measurement so that it corresponds armhole length.
Hood pattern
If you need a hood for a windbreaker, then making it is easy.
Need to try on Head circumference: from center of forehead to occiput(measure across the crown). Another measure is the length of the hood, it is measured from shoulder to crown heads.
The drawing is also built in an equilateral rectangle, where they should be equal altitude your his hood and of course 0.5 of the circumference of your head.
The right edge of the drawing needs to be rounded off (crown area). Lower the line from the forehead by 2 cm and draw 2 parallel lines.
At the neck, raise the line 3-4 cm inside the drawing, smoothly moving to the edge. This ensures a good fit of the future hood, wrinkles will not form on the back of the head.
Collar
It is much easier to carve a collar for a windbreaker.
To do this, you need a small strip of fabric, it should be equal to double height, as well as the width of the neck.
How to model the style of a windbreaker?
At the modeling stage, you should consider the shape and presence of pockets, zippers, stripes and other decor.
Pockets
Types of pockets, they can be:
- invoices of various shapes ("kangaroo", round, square, simple);
- internal;
- with valves (in safari or casual styles);
- briefcase pocket (large sizes, can be gathered and on valves);
- pockets in the seam open or with a zipper (on the sides);
- welt pockets (with a leaflet, valves), etc.
cuffs
The sleeves can be made of ribbed fabric, you can turn the same fabric or insert a wide elastic band.
Models look interesting if you put a wide elastic band inside. Stretch it 2 times and stitch through 2 cm.
Cutting the lining
For summer windbreakers without lining fabric are possible. For warmer models, you can silk lining or sew on a thin synthetic winterizer layer.
The pattern is the same, first all the details of the upper part of the windbreaker are sewn together.
Then the lining is assembled in the same way, after which the 2 parts are joined together.
Important! Assembly order: begin to connect both necks, then anterior incision. Sleeves are connected last.
For their aesthetic sew up through a small hole that is left only in 1 sleeve. Carefully sew up the 2nd sleeve.
The pick is cut out from the main fabric and duplicated for density non-woven fabric.
The described patterns will fit any size..
You can optionally flare at the bottom, wear a belt on top or make drawstrings on the sides and stretch any cord.
Another version of the windbreaker - gather on the sides or leave free-form with internal (patch) low pockets.
This will help to be fashionable and look slim.
For lush ladies, you need to choose an elongated model (below the hips), the belt does not always improve the silhouette. 
It is better to make pockets internal so that they do not give additional volume.
Advice! For a windbreaker, a hanger can be made from lining fabric or decorative cord. Fasten on the front side at the center of the gate between the lining and the back.
For beginners, it is better to practice on inexpensive fabrics (coarse calico, chintz). But then you will boldly and efficiently create a miracle windbreaker, avoiding mistakes.
Today in stores women's clothing such a large assortment is presented that it may seem that a do-it-yourself sewn women's windbreaker, the patterns of which will be discussed in this article, is a completely unjustified occupation. However, if you think about it, you can find a lot of advantages and benefits of self-tailoring.
First of all, it is economy. As a rule, sewn things are several times cheaper. Also, do not forget that by independently modeling the style, you can take the most liked details of various models and combine them together in your product. Well, the most important thing is the color and size, which, as practice shows, can be very difficult to choose when choosing a finished windbreaker. Either the thing is large, or it perfectly matches the color of the eyes, but it is small, or it sits perfectly, but the shade does not satisfy the needs. So it turns out that in a huge assortment fashion stores You can lose several hours of time and still not find a suitable option.
Whether it's with self-tailoring! Moreover, the windbreaker pattern female model It is built very simply, and even the most inexperienced craftswoman can sew it.
Taking measurements
Tailoring of any clothes begins with taking measurements. The pattern or male is built on the basis of the main measurements: waist, hips and chest, shoulder width, sleeve length and product length. This thing differs from other women's outerwear in that it does not make darts either on the chest or on the waist, which greatly facilitates the construction of the template and minimizes the number of measurements taken from the figure.
Building a shelf template
To build a template, you will need newspaper, glued sheets of paper or construction film. They will need to mark the boundaries of the drawing. It should be a rectangle with sides that will correspond to the half-girth of the chest + a few centimeters for a loose fit (the amount depends on the style), the other side should be equal to the length of the product from the shoulder to the bottom.
The pattern of the female model windbreaker in the drawing is built as follows:
- At a distance of 25-30 cm (and for large sizes 35-40 cm) from the upper side of the rectangle, which is designated as the chest line, is laid.
- Next, this straight line is divided into parts: the width of the back, the armhole zone (the value of the half-girth of the chest is divided by 4 and 2 cm is added), the zone of the front shelf.
- After proceeding to the neck in the upper corners of the rectangle. They retreat from the corner towards the rectangle by 6 cm and deepen the neck on the back by 5 cm, and in front by 5-6 cm.
- Further, from the extreme points of the neck, shoulder seams are marked, lowering them by 1.5 cm from the upper side of the border of the drawing.
- Then find the middle of the armhole on the chest line and lower straight lines from the edge of the shoulder sections. After they draw an armhole, rounding the corners.
- If the length of the product is higher than the hips or the measurement of the hips is similar to the chest, then all constructions can be completed on this. If the hips are wider, you should take into account the difference and flare the side cut, descending from the point of the middle of the armhole perpendicular to the lower border of the drawing.
Thus, as a result of all the manipulations, you will get windbreakers, or rather, halves of the back and front patterns. Next, you should start developing the sleeve.
Sleeve construction
Finished pattern a women's windbreaker should consist of a half back, a front shelf and a sleeve. Different cutters use different methods construction of the sleeve, but the principle is always the same: the eyelet should fit perfectly into the armhole along the front and back. To build this element, it is necessary to combine ready-made shelf templates along the shoulder seams and transfer the armhole line to a separate sheet. Next, the rounding at the shoulder must be closed in a circle. On its lower border, place a measure in the center “the width of the upper arm. On the top - step back up 1.5 cm and smoothly reduce the rounding from this point to nothing. Then it remains only to outline the okat line and make a control measurement of compliance with the length of the cut of the armhole.
Construction of the hood and collar
The pattern of a women's windbreaker with a hood differs only in that, in addition to the shelves and sleeves, a template for the hood should be developed. Making it is easy enough. Measure the circumference of the head and measure the length from the forehead to the back of the head through the crown and the height of the hood (shoulder to crown). The construction is made in a rectangle, where the sides are equal to the height of the hood and the half-girth of the head.
A measurement taken from the forehead to the back of the head should be laid through one of the upper corners of the rectangle, while the sharp edge should be rounded, and a straight line should be lowered by 1-2 cm to the forehead area. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe occipital cut, the line should be shifted 3-4 cm inward rectangle. The line of the base of the hood, along which it will be connected to the windbreaker, should be made curved. At the back of the head - raised by 3 cm, and towards the face, on the contrary, lowered. This will ensure the correct fit of the hood and get rid of excess wrinkles at the back of the head.
The collar is much easier to make. It will require a strip of fabric equal to twice the height and width corresponding to the cut of the neck.
Style modeling
The basic pattern of the female model windbreaker is half the battle. Everything else is just details. At the modeling stage, the location of pockets, stripes of decorative elements and other shaped elements is worked out. By the way, pockets can be welt with zippers or patch pockets, as well as a combination of one with the other.
According to this description, you can sew absolutely different models. Need a women's jacket big size? The pattern, the description of which is presented above, is perfect for absolutely any complexion. Flare the bottom a little, add drawstrings and cords on the sides to pick up the side seams, similar design of the sleeves and collar - and a great windbreaker for a lady curvaceous ready.
Ribbed cuff options
Windbreakers are characterized by cuffs at the bottom of the product and on the sleeves. For their design, you can take special knitted dovyas or ribbed fabric, or, using the main fabric and a wide elastic band, make these elements yourself. A strip of fabric for the length of the stretched elastic band and its double width, an elastic band inserted inside, stitched every half a centimeter - and the cuffs are ready.
A little about the choice of fabrics
The most successful material for a windbreaker is raincoat fabric. This material will protect well from the wind and will be able to withstand light rain. If you take warm fleece for the product, then the pattern of the windbreaker of the female model will miraculously turn into a warm and cozy anorak.
It will also look good option with leatherette or lacquer fabric. However, the choice depends on your own preferences and taste.
Working with lining
If you sew a windbreaker without a lining, then this will be a great option for cool summer evenings, but if you need a warmer model, then it is better to arrange a lining, or you can even use a quilt with a small layer of padding polyester.
To cut, you will need the same pattern of a female model windbreaker. First, all the elements of the top of the product are assembled, then the lining is completely sewn together, and then they are connected.
The assembly sequence is as follows: first along the neck and front section; further along the bottom, and then in the sleeves.
So that all the joints are beautifully decorated, they are sewn through a hole in one of the sleeves. The sleeve is sewn up last.
Even if there are still frosts ahead, we will begin to prepare for spring.
We sew a light jacket on a synthetic winterizer. (although it can be made warmer if desired.)
We will sew something like this:
This, of course, is a down jacket, but ours will be even more beautiful.
We will not suffer with a stitch of fabric, there are a lot of fabrics already quilted on a synthetic winterizer on sale. Beautifu...
When choosing a fabric, pay attention to whether there is a thin interlining between the main upper fabric and the padding polyester. If there is, then very good. The synthetic winterizer will not climb to the surface.
It's rare, but it happens.
We need fabrics: jacket length + sleeve length + 20 cm for hem and seam allowances. If your size is from the 50th, then add another 15-20 cm to the collar.
I still did not manage to buy already quilted fabric, we will quilt ourselves.
ready-made ones were either expensive: 2,500 rubles a meter, or lining fabric was fastened onto a synthetic winterizer. It was passed off as a "jacket" at 650 rubles per meter.
Raincoat fabric for stitching needs a thin one.
The girls asked about natural fabrics. They are usually denser and quilted for insulation will "stand". Natural jacket fabrics are more suitable for men's jackets and for sewing parkas.
So my expenses are:
raincoat fabric (250 rubles per meter) - 1.5 m
synthetic winterizer (60 rubles per meter with a width of 1.5 m) - 2 m (just in case, 1.7 m is also possible)
The main fabric is obtained for 540 rubles.
You will also need lining fabric.
Take the usual synthetic, inexpensive, durable, which does not break apart in your hands. As much as raincoat fabrics.
If the fabric is an unusual color, the tone of which is difficult to match the zipper, then first find a suitable zipper, and then adjust the length of the jacket to fit it.
If the jacket is black, white, gray, etc., then it will be easier to pick up a zipper for it.
We will buy later, the right size.
When the jacket is long, it is convenient if the zipper has 2 sliders. When you sit down, you can unfasten the bottom.
The synthetic winterizer is thinner, thicker - puffier. Note that the thicker the padding polyester, the puffier your jacket will be.
There is also a holofiber and some other insulating materials. Take any insulation, except for batting. With batting, the jacket will be unbearable.
We will quilt already cut out details.
There was a question about what threads are suitable for stitching. I saw on sale jacket fabrics quilted with thick threads, such as jeans are sewn. Beautiful.
But can you quilt just as beautifully?
Thick threads usually create problems when sewing. If you make a weak tension, then the loops on the front side of the fabric appear, if you make the tension stronger, it tightens the fabric.
So most likely we will quilt with the same threads as we sew.
I can't say for sure yet. I will open my jacket, try different threads for stitching, and then I will tell you.
Some girls asked about knitted cuffs on the sleeves. Not every city has ready-made cuffs for sale, you can, of course, knit them yourself, but I planned sleeves without cuffs.
Taking measurements
Tune in, taking measurements is a very important stage.
I remind you that you need to tie a cord or elastic band at the waist to fix the location of the waist line. We have a lot of measurements just from her.
To build a pattern for our quilted jacket, we need the following measurements:
1. Chest girth (measured horizontally through the most protruding points of the chest, the protrusion of the shoulder blades is taken into account on the back)
2. Waist circumference (horizontally at the narrowest point of the figure)
3. Girth of the hips (horizontally along the widest place of the hips through the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen)
4. Neck girth (horizontally along the base of the neck)
5. Shoulder length (measured from the line of intersection of the shoulder and the line of the circumference of the neck to the end point of the shoulder)
6. Shoulder girth (measured at the fullest part of the arm)
7. Width of the front (measured along the front between the armpits)
8. Back width (measured along the back between the armpits)
9. Length of the back to the waist (measured from the point of the beginning of the shoulder to the waist line).
10. Front length to waist (measured vertically along the front from the point of intersection of the base of the neck and the shoulder line through the most protruding point of the chest to the waist)
11. Side height (measured from the waist line to the armpit)
12. Sleeve length (measured on a slightly bent arm from the end point of the shoulder to the wrist)
13. Wrist circumference
14. Shoulder height oblique (measured along the back from the spine at the waistline to the extreme point of the shoulder)
15. The length of the product from the waist (measured from the waistline to the line of the desired length of the product)
The girls asked how to take measurements from themselves.
Difficult. Some measures are impossible at all. For example, back width.
Someone will have to ask.
Show the assistant a picture of how to take the desired measurement, and check the correctness of the execution in the mirror.
If you don’t tend to change body size often (well, at least the length :))), then once measurements taken can be useful for sewing several things.
Building a pattern
I will not torment you with the theory of selection and calculation of increases for a jacket.
I propose already ready-made figures. If you have doubts, or you are used to checking everything, then measure some ready-made jacket, the degree of fitting of which suits you. You can take your increment values.
In any case, the increase and their distribution by standards is a variable value. Only you determine what degree of freedom your jacket will have. Big gains - more freedom of fit, smaller gains - the jacket will fit you more.
1. I suggest taking an increase in the chest (to the whole chest girth) from 15 to 20 cm. No more than 20 cm. If you take 20 cm, the jacket will be very loose.
2. An increase in the Girth of the hips - 10 - 15 cm. If you take a smaller increase in the chest, then take a smaller value for the hips.
3. An increase to the waist will turn out by itself, then you will see from the construction.
4. increase to the width of the back 4-5 cm, to the width of the chest - 3-4 cm.
About the rest of the increase, I write in the construction.
immediately write the increase in the measurement plate, so as not to get confused.
I do this: opposite the name of the measurement, I write the exact measurement from the figure, and next to it is a measurement with an increase and circle it.
And it is clear that when building we use a measure from a circle, and a measure from a figure is useful for checking or for building another pattern.
shelf
1. Draw a horizontal line. This is the waistline. We sign so as not to get confused.
2. Stepping back from the right edge of the paper 5 cm, we put a point on the waist line through which we draw a perpendicular. This is the mid front line.
3. We set aside from the waist up along this line of the middle of the front the measurement of Dtp + 1 cm, the so-called increase per package - by the thickness of the quilted fabric (length of the front waist + 1 cm). Let's call the resulting point A3.
4. Draw a perpendicular to the point A3 to the left.
5. On this perpendicular, set aside the value (Osh (Girth of the neck): 6). Let's call the resulting point A4.
6. Down from point A3, set aside the depth of the neck. It is 1 cm larger than the width. Point A5
We increase the neckline of the shelf in width and depth by 1.5 cm so that the collar does not sting :)
8. From the received point down, set aside 4 cm for the bevel of the shoulder. Let's call point 4.
9. We draw the line A4.4. Extend a little beyond point 4.
10. From the waist down along the line of the middle of the front, set aside the value (About (girth of the hips): 5).
We draw a perpendicular from the resulting point to the left. This is the hip line. We sign.
That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated by the formula (Ob: 5).
Back
1. From the middle of the front along the hip line, set aside the value (Chest girth) plus the Increase in the chest: 2) (Og + Pg): 2.
Draw a perpendicular from the obtained point. This is the middle line of the back.
2. Along the line of the middle of the back up from the waist, we set aside the measurement Dst + 2 cm, an increase due to the thickness of the quilted fabric (Length of the back to the waist + 2). We call the resulting point A.
3. Draw a perpendicular from point A to the right. Set aside the value on it (Osh (Girth of the neck): 6). Set point A1.
4. Down from point A set aside 2 cm. This is the depth of the neck.
After drawing the neck line, expand it by 1.5 cm. This is necessary for outerwear.
We increase the neckline of the back only in width by 1.5 cm. Leave the depth until trying on 2 cm.
5. From point A1 to the right, we postpone the measurement Dp plus 1 cm for a good fit and plus 1 cm for freedom (Shoulder length + 2 cm)
6. From this point down, set aside 3 cm for the bevel of the shoulder. We get point 3.
7. We draw the line A1,3. On it once again set aside the measurement Dp + 3 cm.
Build a tuck in the middle of the shoulder. The middle of the tuck is perpendicular to the line of the shoulder. Dart length 8-9 cm, tuck solution 2 cm.
8. We check whether the measurement corresponds to Vpk (Shoulder Height oblique) on the drawing. We measure from point Tc to point 3. If more, leave it like that until fitting. The main thing is not less. If less, then reduce the bevel of the shoulder (from horizontal line shoulder is not 3 cm down, but smaller. As much as you need according to your measure VPK).
9. From the waistline, we set aside the measurement Wb (Height of the side). We draw a line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let's sign the "line of the chest."
At the intersection of the line of the chest with the line of the middle of the front, we get the point Gp, at the intersection with the line of the middle of the back, we get the point Gs.
We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the chest line.
Og (Chest girth) plus the increase in the chest divided by 4. If your chest is not large, then for the jacket, I recommend making the front and back the same width. In the jacket, we need a fairly large increase in the back for freedom of movement.
For example, Og is 100 cm. Plus an increase in the chest of 16 cm.
It turns out (100+16):4=29. The width of the shelf will be 29 cm. The width of the back is also 29 cm.
We set aside the resulting values along the line of the chest. Let's call the resulting point G3.
On the waist line, we make the shelf and back 1-1.5 cm narrower than these details at chest level. This is a side cut. We will not make other tucks - we have a belt tie. On quilted fabrics, stitched darts create more thickness.
We set aside the resulting values \u200b\u200bin the waist line.
10. Calculate the width of the front and back along the hips.
It is calculated in the same way as for the chest: (About (Girth of the hips) plus an increase in the hips divided by 4). We postpone the resulting values along the line of the hips.
For example: hip circumference 108 cm plus an increase of 10 cm = 118. 118 divided by 4 is 29.5.
Set aside from the point Bp 29.5 cm to the left along the line of the hips. Set aside from the point Bs 29.5 to the right along the line of the hips.
In the example, the hips are wider than the chest, so the drawing turned out to expand towards the hip line. If the hips are narrower than the chest, then there may be a narrowing of the side line to the hips.
We draw the line of the side, connecting the corresponding points on the line of the chest, waist and hips.
armhole line
11. On the line of the chest from the point Gp, set aside the value ((Chest width + Increase to chest width) divided by 2 (Wg + Pshg): 2) to the left. We put point G2. From this point, we draw a vertical up to the intersection with the line of the shoulder. This line is for our reference. We will specify the width of the shelf at this level at the fitting.
12. We draw by hand the line of the armhole of the shelf from point 4 to point G3. The main thing is to make sure that this line does not go beyond the line from point G2. So that the width of the chest is not Already measurements of the width of the chest + an increase in the freedom of fitting.
13. On the line of the chest from the point Gs, we set aside the value to the right (Width of the back + Increase to the width of the back divided by 2 ((Ws + Pshs): 2)).
14. We draw by hand the armhole line of the back from point 3 to point G3. The main thing is to make sure that this line does not go beyond the line from point G1. So that the width of the back is not Already measurements of the width of the back + an increase in the freedom of fitting.
All the pattern of the shelf and back is ready.
Necessarily! After construction, we check the drawing. We measure all widths and lengths and check with the measurements.
Take it easy, we're not in a hurry. The main thing is that we enjoy the process, praise ourselves more often and tell our loved ones how smart you are and what success you have already achieved.
Sleeve pattern
Trying on and the first exit in an already finished thing are my favorite stages of tailoring things. The rest must be endured by necessity.
Please take your time. After building, carefully check everything. If something doesn’t fit or you don’t like it, check again if you calculated and drew everything correctly, and then write to me.
We build a sleeve.
1. Draw a vertical line. Point O is at the top.
2. From point O, lay down the measure of the Length of the sleeve (Druk) and draw a horizontal line through the resulting point. This is the bottom line of the sleeve.
3. From point O, we lay down the height of the sleeve.
eye height calculation:
We measure the length of the armhole of the shelf and back, divide the resulting figure by 3.
For a jacket, it is better to reduce this number by 2-5 cm, depending on the degree of “flattening” of the shoulder.
Look at the picture of our jacket, here the shoulder is considered “in place”, that is, not lowered.
If you decide to make a lowered shoulder, for example, by 2 cm (on the pattern you drew a shoulder 2 cm longer than your own), then reduce the height of the sleeve collar by 3 cm, etc.
We denote the resulting point O1, draw a horizontal line through it.
4. The sleeve width is equal to the Girth of the shoulder plus the increase (Op + P).
An increase in the width of the sleeve for a jacket from 10 cm. I took 10 cm for my jacket. You can’t wear a thick sweater. If you are going to wear your jacket on some bulky clothes, then measure the circumference of your arm in this clothing and add 10 cm to the resulting girth. You definitely can’t go wrong.
If the handle is full (more than 36 cm), then you can reduce the increase to 6 cm (this is the very minimum) so that the jacket looks better and does not make the figure look fat.
Set aside half in both directions from the line of the middle of the sleeve. We get points P and P1
5. Connect points P and P1 with straight lines to point O. Line R, O- the front part of the sleeve collar, line P1, O - the back of the sleeve collar. These lines are divided into 4 parts. The deflection in the middle between points P and p is 2 cm, we set point 2, between points p and O - 1.5 cm, we set point 1.5, etc.
6. We draw the curve of the sleeve ok (look at the drawing) through the points P, 2, p, 1.5, O and further O, 1.5, s, 1, P1
7. Bottom of the sleeve.
The circumference of the wrist (according to the measure) plus an increase of 10 cm is divided in half and set aside on both sides of the midline of the sleeve. We get points H and H1.
8. We connect the points P and H, P1 and H1.
9. We measure the line of the collar of the sleeve, check for compliance with the length of the armhole. The sleeve length should be 3-4 cm longer than the armhole, then the sleeve will “sit down” well.
We check the front part of the sleeve collar for compliance with the length of the armhole of the shelf, the back part of the collar of the sleeve is checked for compliance with the length of the armhole of the back. They, respectively, should be 1.5-2 cm longer than "their" parts of the armhole.
If the sleeve length is not enough, then check the height of the sleeve. If you consider it sufficient (correctly calculated, as I wrote to you above), then increase the width of the sleeve.
We sign the pattern: “Sleeve, 2 details” and apply the direction of the shared thread. It coincides with the line of the middle of the sleeve.
Building a stand-up collar
1. Construct a right angle at point O. Up from point O, set aside the height of the rack. For jackets from 5 centimeters. Point B
2. To the right, set aside the length of the collar (measure the length of the neck according to the drawing). Set point B2
3. From point B2, set aside 0-2 cm upwards, depending on the desired degree of fit of the rack. Set point B3.
If you take the number 0, then the collar will be visually slightly separated from the neck. If the number is 2, then the collar will fit more, as if inclined to the neck.
4. We draw a line for stitching the rack from point O to point B3
5. We draw a perpendicular to the stitching line from point B3. Set aside the height of the rack on it.
6. Draw the departure part of the rack
If it’s not entirely clear, then the blog has a video of building a stand-up collar for a shirt. First video.
The construction is the same, only the numbers are slightly different.
Opening and stitch
The hardest part is over. Only pleasures remain
cutting
Before cutting, be sure to check the fabric for defects. It is ideal to do this even when buying or when receiving from a client. But before cutting, we examine the fabric again, suddenly something was missed or a new one appeared.
If you are worried that you may have built the pattern incorrectly, are afraid to ruin the fabric, then cut the jacket from unnecessary cheap fabric, from an old sheet, for example.
Try it on, make sure that the jacket still "fits" on you, that the sleeve sits in the armhole, etc., and only then cut your raincoat fabric.
We impose patterns on the fabric, observing the direction of the shared thread, the direction of the pattern (if any) and the pile, pin with tailor's pins.
We circle each pattern with chalk along the contour, we draw the second contour stepping back to the seam allowance.
Since the jacket is outerwear, and even with a padding polyester, and if you still quilt yourself, then allowances for seams along the shoulder, side seams, along the armhole, along the middle seam of the sleeve we make 2 cm, along the neck - 1-1.3 cm, allowance for hemming the bottom and bottom sleeves at least 5 cm.
Cut out without unfastening the pattern from the fabric.
Small details must also be applied to the fabric, check that everything fits, but do not cut it out. During fitting, sometimes you have to change the length of the collar, and even the shape. It is better to cut out small details after trying on.
Stitch
For stitching, we draw on the front side of the cut details with a sharply sharpened remnant (chalk can be poorly peeled off the fabric) lines along which we will quilt. It can be rhombuses, squares, just horizontal or vertical lines. Do not invent a very complex pattern, it will be very difficult to quilt.
We impose a part, for example a shelf, on a synthetic winterizer and cut out a synthetic winterizer along the contour of the part with a small allowance, cm 2-2.5.
We chop off the detail of the cut and the synthetic winterizer along the contour and along the stitch lines quite often so that it does not move during work.
First, we lay a line along the contour of the part, stepping back from the edge of 4-5 mm, cut off the extra padding polyester along the edges, then we quilt the entire part along the pre-drawn lines.
The stitch length is maximum.
Fitting
I think everyone has already cut their jacket. Let's move on to the example.
For sampling you need:
1. Sweep the shoulder and side seams, the middle seam of the sleeve, sweep the sleeves. "Collect" the product.
2. we do not sweep the collar, pockets, cuffs, but we prepare at least patterns
Fitting
We pierce the product as it will be in finished form.
What you need to pay attention to when trying on:
1. The overall balance of the product.
We look to see if the shelf or back is overtightening. This may be the case if the measurements of the length of the back to the waist or the shelf to the waist are incorrectly taken.
2. The position of the shoulder seams.
We look if the line of the shoulder seam goes too far to the shelf or back
3. Shoulder length.
The length of the shoulder should be proportional to the silhouette of the product (a loose silhouette corresponds to an elongated shoulder)
4. Shoulder height
We look for diagonal folds in the shoulder area, which disappear if the shoulder is raised.
5. Neckline
The fabric should not "run" around the neck.
The neckline should not be too large, but it should not be tight either.
6. Side seams.
They should be vertical unless the model says otherwise.
7. The degree of fit of the product in the area of the chest, waist and hips.
Perhaps we are talking to the client.
8. The width of the product at the level of the measurements of the width of the chest and the width of the back.
Move a little to determine the degree of freedom in this area.
9. Bottom of the product.
We check the horizontality of the bottom line, if the model does not intend otherwise.
10. Sleeve fit.
See if the sleeve "sits" well. I point out the diagonal creases on only one side of the sleeve to the incorrect fit of the sleeve.
Check if the sleeve height matches the armhole. The height of the eyelet needs to be changed if it has diagonal creases on both sides.
11. We specify the length of the product and the length of the sleeve.
12. We specify the shape and size of the collar by applying a pattern.
13. Refine the shape and size of the pocket and flaps. If it is a consignment note, we pin the pocket pattern in place, if it is welt, we simply mark it with lines.
We mark all changes, stabbing with tailor's pins, we additionally do
clarifying notes.
We make changes to the cut according to the pinned pins and according to the notes that you made during
sample time.
The second fitting is necessary if the figure or model of the jacket is complex, and after the first fitting it is not clear whether the product will fit well after making changes to the cut.
The second fitting is carried out in the same way as the first.
basics
After trying on, we make adjustments to the cut. We mark the location of the pockets.
I decided to simplify - we will make a pocket just with a piece of paper, without a zipper.
Such a pocket can be made on both shelves below, and as an internal one - on a lining in the chest area.
Be sure to practice making a pocket on a piece of fabric. Do 1,2,3 pockets for training until you get a good one.
The width of the pocket (leaves) in finished form is 2 cm, the length is 14-15 cm for women's jackets, 16-17 cm for men. The main thing is that the hand freely enters the pocket.
We need to cut out:
a piece of paper (a rectangle from the main fabric of the fabric is 4 cm longer than the entrance to the pocket and 6-7 cm wide),
valance (rectangle from the main fabric of the same size as the leaflet), pocket burlap (from lining fabric, can be from the main one)
Glue the leaflet with glue.
1. draw the entry point to the pocket:
width, pocket length and midline (turquoise line)
2. on a piece of paper and on a valance at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, draw lines of stitching
3. from the side of the middle of the shelf, attach a leaflet to the middle line face to face, from the side - a gap
3. Sew leaflet and valance
4. make a cut along the midline not reaching 1-1.5 cm to the end of the lines, at the ends - obliquely to the corners (pink line on the pocket marking)
Be careful not to cut to the last stitch 1-1.5 mm, so as not to damage the thread
5. turn the valance and leaflet on the wrong side, sweep the leaflet, folding it to the desired width - up to 2 cm
6. sew 1 piece of pocket burlap to the leaflet (into the seam of attaching the leaflet to the shelf)
7. unscrew and sweep the burlap as it will be in finished form, sharpen the pocket in the face from the side where the leaves are attached (for fastening and finishing). You can lay a line stepping back 1-2 mm, you can use the foot.
8. sew 2 piece of pocket burlap - to the free edge of the valance
9. fasten the injections (according to the width of the pocket), which we got when notching to the corners, with a line, as if to attach them to a piece of paper
10. stitch pocket burlap details
11. Sew the remaining 3 sides of the pocket
Even if you do not make welt pockets on your jacket, learning how to make this pocket will be very useful to you.
Top sewing. Lining
The jacket is sewn simply:
1. stitching the shoulder seams
2. sew the top collar into the neck of the jacket
3. attach a zipper to both shelves
4. we sew the sleeve into the armhole
5. we grind the side seam and at the same time the seam of the sleeve
Lining
The lining is cut out according to the same pattern as the top of the jacket, minus the bands and back facing (I highlighted them in pink).
From the main fabric we cut out the selection and facing of the back
From the lining - the rest
The seam allowances at the shoulder, side seams and on the lined sleeve are the same as on the top of the jacket.
On the bottom, the seam allowance is 1.5 cm, on the bottom of the sleeve - 3-4 cm
1. stitching the pick to the shelf
2. we sew the facing of the back to the detail of the back
3. we stitch the shoulder seams on the lining
4. we sew the lower collar (from the main fabric) into the neck of the lining
5. we sew the sleeve into the armhole of the lining
6. we grind the side seam of the lining and at the same time the seam of the sleeve
On the lining in the chest area, you can make a pocket. You can invoice or not be too lazy and make a welt with a leaflet, such as I described in the last post.
Jacket is ready!
Stop being lazy, let's finish the jacket. I have walked mine a couple of times.
Here's what happened
And here is how the lining is sewn to the top of the jacket:
1. We fold the upper part of the jacket and the lining face to face, grind along the middle of the shelf, where the zipper is, and along the collar. We lay the finishing line (stepping back on the foot) along the zipper and along the flyaway part of the collar.
2. We turn the sleeve inside out, straighten the lining on the sleeve. If necessary, cut the lining of the sleeve, it should be the same length as the sleeve in the finished tucked form.
3. We process the bottom of the sleeve to a hem with a closed cut (tuck 1 cm, tuck another as much as you left for the hem). The lining is simply inserted into the collar.
4. We sew the upper and lower collars together along the seam allowance (the one between the collar and the neckline)
Sewing is really easy, even things like a jacket. Of course, looking at the scale of the work, it seems impossible to deal with pockets, zippers and decorative stitching without professional skills. But if we consider the process in stages and disassemble each sewing unit separately, in practice it turns out that it is absolutely easy to make even a women's garment on your own. winter jacket. The pattern is built in just 20 minutes.
Preparation
Absolutely all things are built on the base grid. This means that the pattern of the jacket, including women's, is based on a prepared drawing, which takes into account individual measurements. Therefore, they begin by measuring the figure. For a pattern of a women's jacket, the following measurements will be required:
- bust, waist, hips, forearms and wrists;
- back and shoulder width;
- height from shoulder to center of chest, from shoulder to waist;
- sleeve length, product length;
- the distance between the peaks of the chest or, as it is called, the solution of the darts.
To make a template, it is best to use construction film. This material is stronger than paper and is easy to draw on. permanent marker, and you can store a pattern of a women's jacket for a very long time without fear that it will tear.
Base mesh
The drawing begins with the construction of a right angle:
- from the starting point to the right lay a line half the length of the girth of the chest;
- a straight line is drawn downwards in accordance with the length of the product, forming a right angle with the drawn horizontal;
- the top of the corner is a place for the neckline of the back of the women's jacket pattern;
- vertically from top to bottom mark the level of the chest and waist, which are found in accordance with the measurements of "chest height", "height from shoulder to waist";
- 20 cm below the waist mark the border of the hip line;
- from the points found, horizontal lines are drawn parallel to the upper horizontal line of the drawing;
- close the corner, forming a rectangle;
- from the left horizontal along the line of the chest, a point is placed at a distance of half the width of the back;
- on the opposite side mark a point, this is half the solution of the tucks;
- from the point "half the width of the back" recede a value equal to ¼ half of the chest girth + 3 cm;
- perpendiculars are raised from the points found;
- straight lines divided the drawing into three zones: back, armhole, shelf;
- the armhole is divided in half on the line of the chest and the perpendicular is lowered, outlining the side cut.
The basic grid of the women's jacket pattern is ready, it remains to determine the main lines of the details, according to which it will be possible to model the shaped lines.
Pattern details
Pattern detailing is the finish line. Here you will need to carefully place all the dots and connect them with lines:
This construction option is suitable for both a warm product and a women's pattern. leather jacket or windbreakers.
Sleeve measurements
It is always difficult for beginners to build a sleeve. There are many ways to build, but the easiest way to make a template is based on four measurements:
- armhole length according to the finished pattern;
- the length of the sleeve;
- forearm girth;
- wrist girth.
Building a Template
Even if this is a pattern of a women's jacket on a synthetic winterizer, a sleeve can always be built according to these standards. The only thing is that you will need to add an allowance for the thickness of the insulation and a free fit to the girths.
The construction is done like this:
- draw a straight line corresponding to the length of the sleeve;
- 1/3 of the length of the armhole recede from the extreme point from top to bottom, adding 2 cm;
- on both sides of this point at a right angle recede along half the circumference of the forearm;
- from the lower extreme point at a right angle to both sides recede along half the girth of the wrist + 2 cm;
- the resulting lines close into a trapezoid;
- return to the top of the drawing and draw straight lines to design the sleeves, connecting the extreme points of the forearm girth with the upper point of the main straight line;
- the drawing can be divided into two parts: a trapezoid and a triangle;
- the sides of the triangle are divided into 4 equal parts each and dotted;
- the first point to the left of the base is lowered by 2 cm, the third is raised by 1.5 cm;
- the first point to the right of the base is lowered by 1 cm, the third is raised by 1.5 cm;
- the points are connected by a smooth line from the corners at the base through the top of the triangle.
Building the hood
In order to build a pattern for a women's jacket with a hood, you need to measure additional parameters such as:
- head girth;
- head height;
- back neck length;
- front neck length.
The builds are done like this:
- draw a horizontal line equal to 1/3 of the circumference of the head + 4-9 cm;
- from the extreme points they fall at a right angle to a head height of + 3-5 cm;
- lines are closed in a rectangle;
- on the lower edge they retreat half the neck of the back, mark the border, 3 cm of the tuck retreat, mark its border and mark half of the neck of the front;
- from the lower left corner of the rectangle rise by 4 cm;
- from the received point, draw a line to the base to the mark of half of the front neck;
- in the center of the tuck zone, draw a perpendicular to a height of 3 cm and mark the boundaries of the tuck;
- a straight line is lowered from the upper right corner to the point “half of the front neckline”;
- the upper corner of the left corner is beveled and the template is closed with a straight line.
The pattern of a women's jacket with a hood is ready. It remains to cut the parts with and assemble the parts. It is worth noting that allowances for the girth and height of the head are made based on the style and amount of insulation in the hood.
