Means there are 17 stones on the clock. Time to collect stones

On the dials of high-quality mechanical watches, not only the brand and model are indicated, but also the number of stones. Inscriptions like "15 stones" on grandfather's "Victory" in childhood were always very intriguing. When it was possible to find out that it was rubies, the watch began to seem one of the most valuable things in the house.

Many have grown up and figured out why these stones are actually in the watch. If you still have not revealed this secret for yourself, then our material will help fill the gap.

How mechanical watches work

If you ask a specialist about the purpose of stones in watches, he will answer unequivocally: they are needed to stabilize friction and reduce wear on the contacting parts of the mechanism. That's all, simple and clear. Unless, of course, you have an engineering background. For the rest, a translation into a simpler language is needed.

To do this, you should at least in general terms understand how the clockwork works. The source of energy for it is a spring made in the form of a flat steel tape. When winding the watch, it twists and stores energy. The second end of the spring band is attached to the wall of the drum, which rotates and transfers the accumulated energy to the gears. Several of these gears (usually three or more depending on the layout of the watch) form a wheel system. It transfers energy.

Why do the gears not spend all the energy at once, but rotate gradually? A trigger mechanism is used to control the speed of rotation. It is he who does not allow the gears to spin faster than necessary. The trigger mechanism is controlled by a balance regulator. This is a kind of pendulum that works regardless of the position of the clock in space. It has a coil spring that causes the wheel to spin in one direction or the other at a constant frequency. This is how seconds are counted, which then turn into minutes and hours, reflected on the dial.

Stone is a bearing, but not only

There are many rotating parts in the clock mechanism, which are mounted on axes. The main axles are under significant and permanent stress. On the one hand, the mainspring exerts pressure, on the other hand, the rotation is limited by the regulator.

In any mechanism with rotating axes, it is necessary to minimize their friction against a fixed base. This is necessary both to reduce wear and to reduce energy consumption. Usually bearings are used for this, but in watches they are replaced by the same stones.

The axle bearings in watch movements are very thin. In such conditions, stones are needed not only to reduce friction, but also to increase the life of rotating parts. Stones are not subject to corrosion and wear. If they are preliminarily well polished, then their surface remains clean and perfectly even for a long time.

Stones, in addition to the supports of the clockwork, are also used in other places. For example, it is the wear-resistant mineral that is fixed on the pendulum in order to constantly hit the horn of the anchor fork. This is the so-called impulse stone.

Regardless of the type and location of installation, all the stones in the watch mechanism solve a common task - they reduce the wear rate. With the friction of metal on metal, it would occur much faster. In addition, the stones hold a special watch lubricant. To do this, when drilling, they are given a special shape.

About the jewel and the number of stones

Here we are forced to immediately disappoint - natural rubies and diamonds are rare in modern watches. They are used only by luxury manufacturers in limited editions or models made to order. In the bulk, synthetic rubies and sapphires are inserted into the mechanisms. For example, Seiko in Japan has a subsidiary dedicated solely to stone making. Synthetic rubies are no worse than natural rubies, and often better due to the absence of impurities and a more uniform structure.

The number of stones is another interesting and exciting question for many. How many of them should be in a good model? Is 20 pieces enough, or will a watch with 40 jewels be twice as good in proportion to their number?

It is wrong to evaluate the quality of a watch only by the number of stones. If there are 17-25 stones in the mechanism, then this is quite enough to make all significant bearings from rubies. There is nowhere to put more than 27 stones on an ordinary watch with three hands and automatic winding. If the manufacturer indicates 40 or more functional stones, then almost always it is a chronograph or an even more complex movement.

Some factories deliberately overestimate the number of stones, knowing that this indicator is positively perceived by the buyer. In such cases, additional rubies are placed in places where it is quite possible to do without them.

However, not always a large number of stones are a scam. Certain reputable brands do develop complex movements, which can contain more than 100 stones.

In such a situation, when choosing a watch by the number of stones, you need to figure out whether the functionality of the mechanism corresponds to this indicator.

Swiss watch mechanism- this is the holy of holies of mechanical clocks, where the uninitiated are strictly forbidden to enter. Many myths are associated with the use of stones in watch calibers. For example, it was previously believed that the number of stones affects the quality of the move. Is this really so and why these stones are called precious - we will try to clarify in today's article. The main question lying on the surface remains the role of stones in mechanisms. After all, not a single marking without indicating the number of stones inside the caliber.

Each watchmaker will answer without a hitch that the stones in the watch are needed in order to stabilize friction and reduce the degree of wear of the contacting surfaces of the movement. The NIHS 94-10 standard on the function of stones in a movement was adopted in Switzerland in 1965.

Watch mechanism and mineral bearings

The watch mechanism is designed in such a way that its main axles are constantly under load: the mainspring makes them rotate, and the spiral adjuster restrains this rotation. The biggest work is done on the balance support: in addition to reciprocating movements, a rather weighty balance is attached to it. The junction of the axis with the platinum - the fixed part of the mechanism - is subjected to strong friction, and in order to stabilize it in Swiss watch device special bearings are used.

It is known that the coefficient of friction of hardened steel and ruby ​​is exactly the same as in a pair of steel and brass. Why do watchmakers use precious minerals in Swiss watch movements? The trunnions of the axles that are inserted into the bearing are very small in diameter and are only one hundred microns. Therefore, stones in watches are needed rather to increase the durability of the axle bearings in the mechanism, where reducing friction is a natural solution to the problem. The advantages of stone over metal are obvious: it does not oxidize or corrode, and a polished stone surface will retain its shape longer. Stones are better able to withstand the impact load of the anchor fork horns and the pressure of the escape wheel projections.

For the first time, the use of precious stones in the watch mechanism was proposed by George Graham, the founder of the Graham watch manufactory. In 1713, Graham invented the free anchor escapement, which is still used today. Graham's hand is responsible for the creation of more than three thousand copies of pocket watches, and each of them contains ruby ​​​​bearings. Starting in 1725, it was possible in caliber.


Rubies in watches and their optimal amount

Rubies in hours located inside the mechanism depending on the functions. In the usual three-hander, the optimal number of ruby ​​\u200b\u200bstones reaches seventeen. Sometimes the design approach forces us to change some of the stones for brass bearings, and in this case, the true number of stones is written in the characteristics of the watch. Each additional complication adds a number of jewels to the movement.

There are many curious cases when the number of stones is several times greater than their required number. For example, markings that include fifty, eighty, and even one hundred stones are bewildering to the buyer. A lot doesn't mean good. This move is confusing for beginners. All stones that are actually used in the movement of a Swiss watch are called functional. All other stones on the caliber perform a decorative function, which do not fit into the standard marking adopted throughout the world.

Where are stones not needed? In quartz watches. The only moment of load on the wheel gear occurs during the rotation of the stepper motor. Due to the virtual absence of a mechanical movement in quartz watches, wear is almost completely prevented. Therefore, if the characteristics of a quartz watch indicate the number of one, two stones or no stones, this does not mean anything terrible. Those manufactories that are of very high quality without a single stone.


Mechanical Swiss Watches for two centuries were made with real ruby ​​stones inside the mechanisms. The situation changed when in 1902 the technology for growing artificial rubies was invented. Such a turn of history in many respects allowed mass production of watches. Nowadays, natural minerals are used very rarely, because artificial stones are more reliable in work and are easier to process than natural ones. Of course, the realization that a watch caliber contains natural rubies brings great aesthetic pleasure. But the use of synthetic stones does not diminish the value of real watch masterpieces.

Vika Dee

Remember, back in childhood, we looked at father's or grandfather's wristwatches, on which the model, brand and number of stones were indicated. I have always been intrigued by the question - what are the stones in the watch for? And if they are also precious, then the watch itself became a family most valuable relic. We have grown up, but still this question can still excite. To understand this, you need to understand the work of the clock and what the notorious pebbles mean by themselves.

Stones in watches

"15 jewels" in the watch - what does it mean?

Let's figure it out first what are stones in a mechanical watch? So, watch stones are indispensable parts, sapphires or rubies are most often used, for durable work and less wear resistance of the product. These are bearings that stabilize the friction of parts in contact with each other. Usually 15-17 jewels are used per watch. Such a set is only in standard mechanisms, expensive models have much more large quantity jewelry.

In turn, they can be divided into:

  1. Functional. These are the ones that are designed to work in the mechanism, provide durability and reduce friction between parts.
  2. non-functional. Pebbles for decor. They have no connection with the axle supports, they can serve to hide stone holes.

The first option is usually written on the dial, that is, the number of functional crystals.

How do mechanical watches work?

To understand this issue in more detail, you need to know how they work mechanical watches . Any specialist knows what precious parts are for. Let's understand the issue in a simpler language.

The watch is powered by a special spring that looks like a flat steel band.

When you start the mechanism, the spring compresses and stores the energy that it transfers to the drum. The latter, rotating, passes it to the gears. Gears forming a special wheel system, rotate gradually, without wasting all the energy at once. How does this happen?

This problem is dealt with trigger mechanism. It completely controls the operation of the gears and prevents them from rotating randomly. At the head of this system is a balance regulator. Why is he needed? And in order for the wheel to rotate at a certain speed in one direction and the other.

Stones in clockwork

Functionality and work of stones

The stone in the watch is used instead of the bearing. The mechanism works on rotating parts that have their own axes. Each of them experiences tension from two sides, from balance regulator and from the spring. Everywhere there is a process of friction. To minimize it and reduce wear, bearings are needed. That's just their function and perform the stones.

What is the advantage of such unusual, but such necessary details?

Artificial or precious materials do not wear out or corrode

If they are properly sanded and processed, they will be smooth and clean all the time. They increase service life rotating parts. By the way, stones are not only used in watches. There are also impulse stones in pendulums.

Luxury in watches: jewels and their quantity

Now many are disappointed. natural ruby or diamond stones are very rare. Usually only limited and expensive production models are found with such a unique set. The most common is corundum, a crystalline mineral that has its own special structure of synthetic ruby ​​or sapphire.

mineral corundum

Such a mineral is also excellent affects wear resistance. Some stones are much better than natural ones. This means that the synthetic material is better, more uniform and better due to the purity of the product.

How many jewels are in the watch? Many people are interested in this question. It is worth remembering that product quality does not depend on the number of stones.

For a good and durable watch, 15-20 stones are enough

It is simply pointless to put more than 25 stones in the mechanism. If the information from the manufacturer indicates the presence of 35 stones, for example, then this is no longer a simple three-hand mechanism.

Swiss models are very rubies are often used. The same question immediately arises - why do we need ruby ​​stones in mechanical watches and why are they good?

ruby stones

Mechanical Swiss watches throughout their history were made only with rubies, moreover, natural ones. Everything changed only in 1902. It was at that moment that the technological explosion”- a method was created for growing artificial stones. There are mechanisms where they are not used. These are quartz products. It doesn't matter how many stones were used. It has its own system of work, which consists only in a single wheel gear. Only at that moment does the transfer of energy take place. In a quartz watch, 1-2 ruby ​​stones can be involved, but this does not mean that the integrity of the mechanism has been violated. You can find out what time it is without them.

The use of crystals and precious materials in watch mechanisms has long been overgrown with myths and legends. But having understood this issue, you understand that there was nothing supernatural and complicated. Just need look deeper, to the very heart of the watch – to its mechanism.

September 30, 2018, 01:37

Regardless of the brand, stones are always present in watches: they are integral functional elements, serve as a guarantor of the stable operation of the mechanism, and illustrate the quality and value of the accessory.

The power source for the clock mechanism is a spring, which looks like a flat band of steel. It is twisted under industrial conditions, so it accumulates energy. One end of the spring band is fixed on the wall of the drum, the latter, during rotation, directs the accumulated energy directly to the gears. Three or more gears form a wheel system, their number varies depending on the configuration of the watch. The wheel element ultimately performs the transfer of energy.

The gears rotate gradually, since they have a trigger mechanism - this is a controller that does not allow them to spin faster than the technology requires. The trigger mechanism is controlled by a balance regulator, embodied in the form of a pendulum, which functions regardless of the spatial position of the clock. It is equipped with a coil spring, due to which the wheel rotates in two directions with a constant frequency. Thus, seconds are counted, growing into minutes and hours, they are displayed on the dial by means of arrows.

Functionality and tasks assigned to watch stones

To understand why stones are needed in mechanical watches, one must take into account their physical characteristics - ease of processing, stability in contact with other substances and surfaces. If the watch dial indicates how many stones it contains, it means that we are not talking about decorative inlay, but about functional elements enclosed in the mechanism. Their quantity is the main factor symbolizing the quality of the product.

Precious stones are needed to reduce the coefficient of friction that inevitably occurs between the parts, as a result, the wear resistance of the working mechanism increases. This wording is spelled out in the NIHS 94-10 standards, introduced in Switzerland back in 1965. The first watch with rubies was made by George Graham at the beginning of the 18th century, he decided that in a quality watch the friction between the parts should be minimal. From 1725 he made impulse rollers, axles and ruby ​​pallets. He invented the free anchor descent algorithm, which is still used all over the world today.

The function of watch jewels cannot be reduced solely to adjusting the coefficient of friction. The fact is that this indicator, which characterizes the relationship between a watch stone and steel, is practically equal to the coefficient between steel and brass. Therefore, it is natural to ask why bearings are made of precious stones rather than more readily available metals.

The fact is that in wrist and pocket watches there should be a critically small diameter of the trunnions of the axes. The pressure force is directly determined by the area of ​​the contacting surfaces, so watch stones are needed not only to reduce friction, but also to ensure the safety of the axial bearings. It is also important that the stones are not afraid of corrosion, compared to metal, their polished edges remain in their original form much longer.

Axle bearings are initially very thin, minerals not only reduce friction, but also extend the service life of all rotating parts. In addition to the supports, wear-resistant parts are fixed on the pendulum, which is constantly in contact with the horn of the anchor fork - we are talking about an impulse stone.

Natural diamonds and rubies are very rarely embedded in modern clock. They are used only by luxury manufacturers in models for individual orders and in limited editions. Usually, movements are equipped with synthetic sapphires and rubies, their advantages are the absence of impurities and a perfectly uniform structure. For example, the Japanese brand Seiko has a subsidiary dedicated exclusively to the production of such components.

Artificial ruby ​​is ideal for equipping watch movements. Its prevalence is explained by the fact that it has a unique set of characteristics - high wear resistance, availability for processing, hardness, it is suitable for high-quality polishing.

The raw material exhibits a good wettability coefficient, so watch oil is perfectly retained on its planes. This condition, in turn, guarantees minimal wear of constantly contacting surfaces, continuous, uninterrupted operation of the mechanism.

It is important that the artificial ruby ​​does not cause oxidation of the lubricant over time, the latter fully retains its chemical and physical properties.

Types of stones in watches

In accordance with such a criterion as the purpose of using watch stones, they are classified into several types: pallets, through, overhead, impulsive.

Overhead

Their characteristic spherical surface helps to minimize the friction that occurs in the bearings. This category of minerals mainly performs the function of thrust bearings.

pallets

This form of stones looks like a rectangular prism, moreover, it is customary to distinguish between exit and entry pallets. To determine their intended purpose, you need to pay attention to the angle that is formed by the base and momentum planes. Pallet exits are recognizable by a sharper connection zone compared to inlets.

Pulse

They are used to deliver energy to the anchor plug directly from the balance. In section, the minerals look like incomplete ellipses, their shape resembles a cylindrical pin.

through

They are equipped with spherical and cylindrical holes. In the latter case, the stone is used as a bearing for the axles of the wheel system and for the trunnion of the tribe. Through parts with a spherical hole are used to complete the trunnions of the balance axes. Both types of parts under consideration are complemented by an oiler - a specific circular recess responsible for holding watch oil, most of them in the mechanism - from 12 pieces.


The quality and quantity of stones in the watch movement

According to generally accepted standards, the functionality of a standard mechanical watch is based on 17 sharpened minerals. In rare cases, if the design scheme was originally changed, one part at the point of least friction is replaced with a bearing made of brass. Under such conditions, the number of jewels in the watch is reduced to 16. Each additional expansion of working possibilities, for example, the introduction of a calendar, stopwatch, automatic winding or power reserve, leads to an increase in the total number of minerals involved.

The labeling of the trendy classic models indicates that they were produced using 21 stones. This deviation from the minimum is caused by increased reliability and durability of the mechanism.


If a manufacturer claims that 50, 80, 100 minerals are involved in his watch, it is most likely that a significant part of them performs only decorative and image tasks. A reasonable small increase in the number of wear parts justifies the development of special functions (in particular, lunar calendar) or the presence of a custom ultra-thin design.

Stones in the watch mechanism are used to stabilize friction and increase the life of the contacting elements.

The source of energy in any watch mechanism is a spring, which looks like steel. flat tape. When the watch is wound up, it curls up and absorbs energy. The second end of the spring band is attached to the drum, which transfers energy to the gears, creating a wheel system that provides energy transfer. The speed of rotation of the gears is controlled by the presence of a trigger mechanism, consisting of many moving elements mounted on axles.

Any mechanism that includes rotating axles needs to minimize the friction of the moving elements on the base. The less friction there is, the longer the watch can run without winding and the longer the parts will last. Any other mechanism could use bearings, but the same stones are used in watches. They are not afraid of wear and corrosion, and the polished surface of the stone remains perfectly smooth and clean for a long time. In addition, watch stones prolong the life of the mechanism, since the friction of a stone on metal does not affect the condition of the movement as much as the friction of two metal elements.

Special attention deserves an impulse stone, which is installed on the pendulum and constantly strikes the horn of the anchor fork. The impulse stone must be particularly hard-wearing.

What stones are used in the clock mechanism?

Natural diamonds and rubies in their watches are used only by manufacturers of premium products, and then usually only in limited editions or in models made to order. Mostly stones in watches are artificial sapphires and rubies. Some watch manufacturers, such as Seiko, even have separate divisions dedicated only to the preparation of watch stones. By the way, artificial stones even better cope with their tasks, as they have a more uniform structure and do not contain impurities.

Number of jewels in the watch

It is worth clarifying right away that if 17 stones are installed in one watch, and 40 in the other, this does not mean that the second better than the first 2 times. In watches with automatic winding and three hands, a maximum of 25 jewels is installed, it will not be possible to install more even with a great desire. A greater number of stones are used only in watches with chronographs and other complex mechanisms. However, some manufacturers, trying to attract the attention of the buyer, deliberately install stones in places where they are not needed.

Modern manufacturers of mechanical watches use stones for four purposes:

  • Through (accept radial loads in axial supports).
  • Overhead (reduce friction at the ends of the axles).
  • Impulsive (transfer energy to balance).
  • Pallets (ensure the normal operation of the anchor fork).

The basis of any wrist watch- these are through stones, of which there must be at least twelve. Each through stone has a small indentation designed for watch oil. The generally accepted standard indicates that a watch must be set with at least 17 jewels, although last years there has been a clear trend towards the use of 21 stones, which has a positive effect on the wear resistance of mechanisms.



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