home » I am 50 » What are Skeletons? Men's and women's mechanical watches Skeleton with automatic winding. Men's skeleton watches What is a skeleton watch

What are Skeletons? Men's and women's mechanical watches Skeleton with automatic winding. Men's skeleton watches What is a skeleton watch

15/12/2007

In anticipation of various winter holidays It's time to think about a stylish and prestigious gift for the representatives of the stronger sex. We will not dwell on the question of why it is worth choosing a watch, but will immediately move on to the topic of which watch to choose as a gift.

On the eve of various winter holidays, it's time to think about a stylish and prestigious gift for the representatives of the stronger sex. We will not dwell on the question of why it is worth choosing a watch, but will immediately move on to the topic of which watch to choose as a gift. The answer is simple. Of course, beautiful and luxurious! And what could be more spectacular and prestigious than a skeleton – a watch with an open-eyed filigree mechanism, which in fact is a symbol of watchmaking art.

The Fine Horlogerie Foundation website defines a skeleton as "a watch with a transparent dial and case back, the movement of which is devoid of platinum and bridges in order to expose the wheel gear". To this it should be added that the mechanism of expensive skeletons is assembled from parts specially processed and covered with hand engraving. Making skeletons is a whole art, balancing on the verge of watchmaking and jewelry. It requires more skill and time than the production of ordinary watches.

To turn an ordinary mechanism into a skeleton, you first need to completely disassemble it. After that, the bridges and mainplate are either removed completely, replacing them with sapphire plates, or reduced to a minimum in order to provide maximum entertainment to the movement. This process is called "opening". Then all the details are polished, covered with a layer of precious metal, most often gold, and, of course, engraved. After machining, the mechanism must be reassembled, but since the thickness of the bridges has become much smaller, real craftsmanship is required to maintain the original reliability of the wheel train and the accuracy of the movement. Therefore, skeleton watches with complications are considered more prestigious than simple complicated watches.

This model with a tourbillon, a GMT retrograde indicator and an arrow calendar-date is not a typical skeleton, as, indeed, all watches from Jörg Heisek. Firstly, the watch mechanism is not round, but rectangular shape. And secondly, only the tourbillon module is skeletonized here, so that you can fully appreciate the most beautiful watch complication. From the entire wheel gear, only the ratchet wheel of the winding drum and half of the wheel of the pointer calendar-date module are visible. The combined calendar and retrograde GMT modules at 12 o'clock are hidden by a bridge decorated with a perlage pattern. We must admit that this is a very correct decision.

For skeleton big amount additional functions, the space of the dial is organized very competently: the GMT indicator, controlled by an additional button, and the calendar do not visually distract attention from the hands. The movement looks stylish and modern: the mainplate and middle bridge are made of sapphire, the other bridges are rhodium plated and engraved with Cotes de Geneve. The curved bridge of the tourbillon is made in the form of a bridge (which, in fact, translates as “bridge”), repeating the outlines of the Kilada case itself. The hand-wound movement has a very decent power reserve of 80 hours.

Louis Erard 1931 Limited Edition

The 1931 limited edition takes its name from the year Louis Erard was founded. The company from La Chaux-de-Fonds produces exclusively mechanical watches, mainly based on ETA. At the same time, Louis Erard watchmakers themselves carry out the finishing treatment of mechanisms and independently produce some complications, which, in fact, are interesting for the brand: a regulator, moon calendar and others.

Incidentally, decorating mechanisms for skeletons and watches with an open back is Louis Erard's strong point, and the company even carries out such orders for other prestigious brands. "1931", like the model from Hysek, is modern look to the classic skeleton. Most of the platinum is preserved here, and only the balance nodes with the anchor and the "environs" of the barrel are open. But even despite this, "1931" is made rather in the actual face-off style. The bridges and mainplate of the automatic movement ETA 2824-2 are engraved with perlage.

But a real skeleton is a design of a dial with minute markings along the edges, as well as a “skeleton” of an additional second dial, which, together with the crossbar where the brand name is written, forms the letter of the Greek alphabet “tau”. Overhanging the semi-open movement, this structure is coated in black PVD.

Korloff Limited Edition

Before us is a perfect example of how additional functions and skeleton completely transform the popular automatic movement ETA 2824-2. In this case, a full calendar module with disks for indicators of the date, days of the week, months and phases of the moon has been added to the classic three-hander. Strictly speaking, the mechanism itself has not undergone any special changes.

The Korloff designers created their stylish skeleton in a simple and elegant way, focusing on the wheel drive and open rims covered with rose gold. The front and back covers of the case are made of spherical sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The Korloff limited collection consists of 25 watches, each of which has its own individual number. A distinctive feature of all the watches of the French house is an exquisite rose gold case, covered with an original engraving on the side surface. It is especially worth highlighting the design of the scale with markings. It is made in the form of a white wicker frame.

Candino Tradition C8014

Any handmade skeleton is unique, because it is impossible to create two absolutely identical models, even if you really want to. A man is not a machine, which means that patterns, sizes of bridges cut to the limit and platinum will certainly differ from each other. Therefore, skeletons based on the same caliber are sometimes strikingly different from each other. For example, the ETA 2824-2 skeleton from Louis Erard described above is completely different from the skeleton based on the same movement from another Swiss brand, Candino.

Candino craftsmen have crafted a classic 19th century style skeleton. Indeed, when most people talk about skeleton watches, they first of all mean something similar to the Candino Tradition model: extremely openworked platinum, gold-plated and hand-engraved bridges and rotor, against which red rubies sparkle so brightly. No design frills and fashion trends, only traditional noble materials - steel, gold and crocodile skin, and even the execution of the case (Roman markings, "puff" bezel, cabochon-shaped crown) - exactly repeat the respectable style of pocket watches.

Given the win-win classic style, prestigious automatic movement, manual work and more than reasonable price, it can be said that Candino Tradition has created an almost perfect gift.

For Maurice Lacroix, skeletons are not the main specialization. Rather, retrogrades are considered the hallmark of the brand. But in the Masterpiece Squelette, the company decided to do without retrograde indicators. We appreciate skeletons not for functionality, but for entertainment. In this regard, Masterpiece Squelette is beyond praise. Unlike previous models, literally everything is open in the Maurice Lacroix skeleton: the balance with an anchor escapement, and the wheel gear, and the mechanism for adjusting the hands, and even the mainspring.

If you want to really get to know how everything works in a watch, the Masterpiece Squelette is perfect. This movement was originally created as a skeleton – that is, we have a real manufactory caliber ML 134 without platinum with a chic wheel-shaped steel bridge covered with stylish tantalum PVD.

The emergence of skeleton watches or the modern past

In any encyclopedia, we can easily find a very simple definition of a skeleton watch, which is as follows: “A skeleton watch is a mechanical (sometimes quartz) watch in which all the details of the mechanism are visible through the transparent glass of the dial or back cover.” The peculiarity of this watch is that watchmakers remove all “extra” metal from the bridges and platinum of the mechanism, which allows the owner of the “watch skeleton” to learn all the secrets of the mechanism. However, not every fan of exquisite wrist watch knows that skeleton watches appeared at the dawn of watchmaking not at all in order to surprise, shock or shock the public. Their appearance was a forced phenomenon, since the wrist watch mechanism, which becomes more complicated every year, simply did not fit into the case, putting it inside and hiding it from the eye turned out to be a difficult task for watchmakers. And only in the second half of the 18th century, the most experienced watchmakers still managed to close the mechanism from all sides with the help of the watch case. However, following tradition, the watchmakers still provided their watches with hinged back and front covers, so that the most curious could look inside the “temporary apparatus” when they pleased. A little later, the craftsmen learned to cover the watch face with glass, which became the protector of the hands and the surface of the dial from external influences. Agree, this is an interesting paradox – for many years the world watchmakers have tried to give watches a laconic look, to hide all watch insides from view, and now the masters have returned to what they started from, this is evidenced by the general trend towards watch skeletonization. It turns out that those who believe that everything new is a well-forgotten old are absolutely right. In France and Italy in the 18th century, grandfather clocks with a skeletonized dial in the Gothic style were widely used. Often the dials were given such lush and lacy shapes that it was very difficult to read the time on them. Such time meters served rather as rich and refined decorations of a luxurious living room. So now, watchmakers, groping " gold mine”, create an incredible skeleton watch that speaks of the delicate taste of its owner. It is worth noting that a mechanical watch is already a work of art, but when it is presented in such an unusual way, it is already a real miracle. As history tells, the Swiss watchmaker Armin Strohm made a special contribution to the development of skeleton watches, who at the beginning of his brilliant career specialized in the restoration of antique watches. Then the master discovers magical power watches with a skeletonized dial and is closely involved in their development. Today Armin Strom is known all over the world as the creator of the smallest women's skeleton watch, which appeared in 1989. Thus, the watchmaker earned universal recognition, and his masterpiece was listed in the Guinness Book of Records.

The transparent elegance of skeleton watches

Wrist watches-skeletons can rightfully be classified as all "very-very", they are the clearest proof of the professionalism and skill of the best watchmakers in the world. Skeletons are special watches, not only because they appear before us, so to speak, without an outer shell and therefore have an unusual appearance, but they are also a model of watchmaking excellence. When developing skeleton watches, absolutely all elements require special attention, from the most complex design to the most complex mechanism, which is equipped with all the necessary functions of men's and women's watches. Despite the fact that watchmaking XXI century reached a high level and came close to perfection, even now it is not at all easy to assemble skeleton watches. In order not to be unfounded and to fully understand the subtle art of skeletonization, let's take a moment to look behind the door of a workshop of one of the watch companies and observe the process of manufacturing skeleton watches. First, the masters carefully cut out the excess metal of the bridges (sometimes its amount is reduced by 70%). At this stage, a serious problem immediately appears - due to the reduction in the thickness of the bridges, the craftsmen need to make titanic efforts to maintain the accuracy of the course and the quality of the wheel drive. Therefore, skeleton watches with complications are valued much more than just complex watches. The cutting off of metal from the bridges of the mechanism, which is most often done by hand, is called "openwork" in professional circles by watchmakers. Then - finishing. This is perhaps one of the most difficult procedures in watchmaking. The master polishes and decorates the smallest details of the clock mechanism - on the visible parts (in the skeleton almost all parts of the mechanism are visible), he applies precious metals and various patterns, the most famous of which are the Waves of Geneva (Cotes de Geneve) and pearl graining (Perlage). The finished look of the mechanism is given by stones installed directly in the bridge or in platinum, and sometimes in the chaton (set of precious stones screwed to the part of the mechanism). Often, the decoration work does not end there, and the master engraves, sacrificing the strength of bridges and platinum. However, not all watch companies shoulder such complex manual work on finishing the mechanism. Among the most risky decorator brands are Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-leCoultre, Girard-Perregaux, Breguet and some others. The rest of the manufactories focus on creating ultra-precise and extra-complex mechanisms to the detriment of decoration. Today, in the era of mechanization and robotization of all spheres of life, many watch companies, when creating skeletons, replace manual labor electroerosive machines that cut metal with a thin wire, which is given a high voltage. However, many scrupulous collectors and fans of "watch skeletons" prefer handmade masterpieces. May the dear reader forgive us for such a simplified plan of the skeleton production process. In fact, it is not so easy to achieve the transparent sophistication and elegance of skeleton watches, while not forgetting the precise and complex mechanism.

The secret behind the popularity of skeleton watches

Anyone who has ever seen men's or women's skeleton watches and imagines how they look, will definitely make up their mind about these watches. Skeleton watches evoke quite strong emotions: you either like them or you don't like them. Some, for example, will be delighted with the opportunity at any moment to contemplate the work of the mechanism, which is under only one thin "curtain" of transparent glass. And others will find it useless to overpay money just for an unusual appearance wrist watch. Opponents of skeletons also point to the not-so-friendly interface of such watches, which resembles a piece of cheese after a mouse attack. They say that it is not easy to place numbers and other indexes of the dial on the thin details of the mechanism, and therefore it is quite difficult to read the time. Watchmakers solve this problem by imprinting numbers on the glass or bezel of their watches. “But was it worth it to lighten the mechanism in order to eventually make the case heavier?” - opponents of skeleton watches will ask. The Swiss watch company Cartier managed to cope in an original way with such a difficult task as placing numbers on the dial of men's watches. In the model of the Swiss men's watch Rotonde de Cartier Tourbillon Sapphire Skeleton, the platinum itself of the skeletonized mechanism is made in the form of Roman numerals. In defense of the "naked" watches are those watch lovers who managed to discern special magic and incredible charm in these watches. Aren't skeletons beautiful? The mechanism of such watches seems to float in weightlessness, in the thickness of the glass. This clock is truly alive. In addition to being incredibly fashionable and stylish, skeleton watches are also a great way to relax. They say that you can endlessly admire the flow of water in the river or the flames in the fireplace. But try to tear your eyes away from the dial of skeleton watches, behind the glass of which the mechanism is constantly working, by and large, which is the essence of all watchmaking art. Wrist watches-skeletons do not leave anyone indifferent. Someone perceives them as an ornament - after all, everything runs, moves, etc., in general - a fun toy. But most true connoisseurs of watchmaking perceive the skeleton as a demonstration of the finish of the mechanism and high technical results. The essence of all skeletonization is not just to remove the dial, as such, but to actually have something to show under this dial, that is, the clock mechanism must look decent and work with maximum accuracy. Modern Swiss and world watch companies pay great attention the production of skeleton watches, as the fashion for them returns. For beginners and novice “skeleton lovers”, watchmakers offer varying degrees of openness of the mechanism, for example, sometimes the master only slightly lifts the veil of temporal secrecy and opens only part of the skeletonized mechanism with the help of an aperture in the dial or does not skeletonize the entire mechanism. The unique design, high-precision mechanism, often complicated by various functions, amazing appeal and magic of skeleton watches make them incredibly popular in modern society. At first glance at this watch, it begins to seem that this most powerful time has thrown its thin veil over the lace of jagged bridges and tiny gears of the skeleton watch mechanism.

Source - PAM65 watch magazine.

It took mankind centuries to come from the hourglass and sundial to that complex technical device that determines the exact time for us today. Mechanism modern watches is made up of many tiny details. It is not surprising that one day the idea was born not to hide it behind the dial, but rather to demonstrate it in all its glory. This is how skeletonized watches or skeletons appeared. The front and back covers of the case in them are absolutely transparent - at any moment you can see the amazing beauty and bewitching accuracy of the movement.

Women's skeletons are the most elegant decoration that distinguishes its owner from the crowd.

Epos Ladies 4382.115.20.28.15

The movement is placed in a steel case with a diameter of 27 mm and a thickness of 7 mm - this is the smallest model in our review. The front is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, while the back is protected by a mineral one. Details of the skeleton are decorated, the strap is made of genuine leather with folding three-piece clasp.

Zeppelin Princess of the Sky ZEP-74595-set

The original design resembles an old pocket watch in miniature. The crown is located on top, and the 34 mm diameter case inflated on the sides and unusual temples seem to have come from the beginning of the 20th century. Like a hundred years ago, this watch can be worn around the neck. Included leather lace and pendant - pearl or in the form of a leather tassel. The steel case is covered with gold, the logo and marks are applied directly to the convex glass on the inside. Model with a unidirectional rotor, watches are assembled in Germany.

Nika Celebrity 1004.2.1.01B

The Russian company "Nika" is well known for its jewelry watches. This model has a massive case with a diameter of 37 mm entirely made of gold 585, as evidenced by the stamp on the case back. Roman hour markers are engraved on the wide bezel. Numbers III, VI, IX and XII replace 8 cubic zirkonia. The leather belt is adorned with a signature classic clasp. The mechanism is exactly the same as in the Zeppelin model, but here it is turned inside the case, the crown is located at the 5 o'clock position.

Men's Watch united by the idea of calm contemplation, when nothing distracts from the mechanism.

Oris Artelier Skeleton 734-7670-43-51LS

Skeleton for every day, 100% swiss made with a classic 40 mm case for men's watches. Calm, unobtrusive design that allows you to admire the work of the mechanism, which is decorated with blued screws. A double-sided anti-reflective sapphire crystal covers the bezel, while the signature red self-winding rotor is visible through the mineral glass case back. The watch bezel, indexes and hands are gold-plated.

Orient Star Skeleton DX00001W

The mechanism is adorned with complications - a power reserve indicator with a retrograde hand and a small second hand placed at 6 o'clock. The masters of the Japanese manufactory did not forget about the classic "watch patterns": the bridges are decorated using the perlage technique, they are dotted with stripes on the reverse side, the hands are made of blued steel.

Epos Sophistiquee 3424.185.20.18.25

Large eye-catching watch with a case diameter of 42 mm, a large crown and wide sword-shaped hands with a luminous accumulator. Lightness and airiness are imparted by a carefully skeletonized mechanism. The small seconds hand is placed at 9 o'clock. The safety of your watch is guaranteed by Incabloc shock protection. There is no date here, so the setup takes 10 seconds in the morning: the arrows are set, the mechanism is fully wound up, and you are ready to leave the house. The clock will run until the next evening.

Those who are tired of traditional watches, even the most expensive ones, should pay attention to skeleton watches. What lies behind this somewhat unusual name?

These are graceful products that attract the eye with their originality, in which the mechanism is not covered by special plates and an opaque case back. The moving parts of the mechanism, disks and wheel gear in skeletons are partially or completely open to the eyes, which will make such watches a real highlight of your image.

transparent watch

You should not think that skeletons are just transparent watches in which the dial was not set. Everything is much more complicated here. The internal mechanism for such watches is assembled from special parts that are covered precious metal, while the traditional "closed" watch has a mechanism inside made of conventional alloys. As the saying goes, luxury is when the inside is as good as the outside. Perhaps this is the most accurate definition of skeletons.

Such transparent watches can be equated to real jewelry, because their manufacture requires the skill and precision of a jeweler, and often the presence of precious materials. The master removes all unnecessary partitions and plates from the mechanism, removes the skin and flesh of the watch, so to speak, exposing its very foundations, the fragile skeleton - hence the name of the skeletons. This work is very delicate, because here it is important not to disrupt the functioning of the clock.

Price for skeleton watches

It is thanks to the work of the masters that skeletons are quite expensive, they have high price. But as a result, an exquisite and elegant product is born, which has an openwork look, with hand-engraved details. The ability to observe the movement through a small window in the dial adds spice to the accessory. By the way, watches with a partially open mechanism are even more popular and beautiful than fully transparent products, leaving the entire inner world in sight.

Skeleton watches for men and women

A transparent watch with an open mechanism perfectly emphasizes the originality of its owner. Usually these are mechanical watches, less often quartz ones. Skeletons are suitable for both women and men - this is one of their main advantages, the benefit of designs and finishes even precious stones such products are enough.

What can be combined with such a transparent watch with a naked frame? Yes, almost anything. Skeleton watches look great with an office blouse, with an expensive evening dress, with everyday things. This is their secret of success, that, being a truly expensive and original piece, these products are devoid of pretentiousness and excessive sparkling of jewelry.

The design of the skeletons is universal, so the watch looks great with any clothes, except maybe sportswear. Therefore, if you have not yet purchased this unusual accessory, you should definitely think about a purchase that will not disappoint you.

Wall clock Skeletons

Steampunk style fans are happy to purchase Wall Clock Skeletons for outdoor interior decoration. Skeleton desktop products serve as a stylish and elegant desktop decoration. And the chronometers of this model serve as an exclusive wrist accessory, emphasizing individuality and sense of style of the owner.

They say that you can look continuously at two things - at fire and water. But not only, because contemplation of the rhythmically beating "heart" of the chronometer and its complex system, which measures eternity, can capture the eye for a long time.

What is Skeleton in hours?

Mechanical and quartz watches, in which the movement mechanism is open, are commonly called Skeletons. But not all watches of a similar design can be rightfully classified as this type. A real Skeleton watch is not just a watch with missing dial or a transparent window through which you can see the moving parts of the mechanism.

Skeleton watch original

Original skeleton watches are chronometers in which some of the excess metal in the miniature parts of the mechanism is removed as much as possible. As a result, while maintaining full functionality, the watch appears in a “lightweight” version. The details are polished, and the amazing openwork and sophisticated mechanism of the skeleton clock opens up to the review.

The history of skeleton watches

The first models of mechanical watches were precisely the Skeletons, although not in such an exquisite form as they are now. The reason was the bulkiness of parts that were not easy to "pack" in a closed case. Subsequent work on the seal allowed the closure mechanism covers and fully dial.

Now wrist chronometers with an open mechanism, protected by glass, are distinguished by elegance and jewelry performance. But the idea to make the watch not an aesthetic accessory, which is also worn as a functional decoration, was dictated by historical events back in the 16th and 17th centuries. At that time, the Reformation was gaining momentum. The head of the movement in Switzerland and France, John Calvin, banned jewelry. Watches did not fall into this category, so jewelers, having teamed up with watchmakers, began to create watches, carved, engraved and inlaid in the body, precious stones.

How much does a Skeleton watch cost?

Due to the painstaking and miniature work that requires unique craftsmanship, wrist chronometers of this engineering design, endowed with additional complications, are much more expensive than other models. Watches of this design are produced by almost all well-known manufactories of the world level. The cost depends on the design of the model, dimensions and materials used, as well as specifications And availability of additional complications.

Cheap wrist watch Skeleton

Along with original models, the cost of which is estimated at tens and hundreds of thousands of dollars, you can also buy cheaper skeleton watches - the so-called replicas. The original and replica watches Skeleton differ in that the second version is assembled at the brand's contracting factories using original technologies, but cheaper materials.

Cheap skeleton wall clocks of foreign and domestic brands can be bought for only a few tens of dollars

Russian wrist watches Skeleton of Platinor, Petroff trademarks can be purchased from 30 to 400 thousand rubles. Russian watches brand "Nika" represent gold and silver watch Skeleton, with samples 585 and 925 respectively. It is noteworthy that this brand has patented its own “case-in-case” technology, the essence of which is that a mechanism in a capsule is placed in the main body of precious metal, which provides additional protection. At the same time, the cost varies not only by the case material, but also by the presence of additional functions.

Wristwatch brand "Nika" - Skeleton

Expensive Skeleton watch from Switzerland

The Skeleton Switzerland watch is one of the most prestigious chronometers. The brand produces both wrist and pocket watches Skeletons made of white gold, platinum, adorned with diamonds and endowed with additional functions.

The best pocket gold watch for real gentlemen can be purchased from Swiss brands Antoine Preziuso, Bovet, Patec Philippe, Audemars Piguet, endowed with a repeater and a tourbillon.

Antoine Preziuso Skeleton watch

Mechanical Men's Watch Armin Strom's self-winding skeletons are endowed with water resistance, made of white and rose gold, they look strict and elegant. The B.R.M. brand offers several lines of rather catchy multifunctional models of sporty style.

Swiss wrist Ladies Watch Skeleton brands Blancpain, Audemars Piguet, Bovet, Richard Mille are distinguished by their elegant design, finely selected range of colors, look luxurious and rich. The Watches collection also presents models that are more daring in design for lovers of outrageous style.

Vacheron Constantin Skeleton watch

Original and unique models for lovely ladies are also presented by Vacheron Constantin. The lines of the Swiss brand Zenith represent women's and male models luxury watches made of gold, titanium, white gold, ceramics, made with a special taste. The watch is endowed with a chronograph, is water resistant and has a power reserve.

Among the Swiss brands, you can find models for all tastes - from strict aristocracy and classics to glamorous designs.

Skeleton watches at an affordable price

The Chinese brand Forsining and the Japanese Orkina are manufacturers of stylish mechanical watches, including those with an open mechanism, which can be purchased at an affordable average price from $25-30. At the same time, the watch is endowed with additional complications, made in original design and are available in women's, men's and unisex models.

One of the new brands that is gaining popularity in Russia is Oubaer. Its movements are made in Japan, and the models of the brand, in addition to the original aesthetic performance, are famous for their increased reliability.

Oubaer Skeleton watch

Fashionable and inexpensive skeleton watches can be purchased from the Chinese brand Winner, which, along with a strict approach to product quality, focuses on uniqueness of the proposed solutions. Watches with an open mechanism of this manufacturer are original and do not repeat the models already offered by other manufactories. With the low price of this Skeleton watch brand, reviews of chronometers are the most positive.

Watches nowadays are not just an accessory. They vividly give an idea of the personality and lifestyle of the owner. Therefore, not only the comfort of everyday use, but also the image of an individual depends on the selection of the right model.

September 15, 2018, 09:03