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RUSSIAN LACE
1. HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE FISH
In Russia, the term "lace" did not immediately acquire a modern meaning. Initially, in Russian life, this word was understood as a variety of finishes, with the help of which they “circled”, i.e. decorated the edge of clothes or any other things made of fabric. It could be embroidery, braid, low pearls or gems. The new kind needlework - weaving a pattern from threads on bobbins - was brought to Russia from Western Europe at the beginning of the 17th century.
The introduction by Peter I of Western European costume in Russia at the beginning of the 18th century greatly contributed to the spread of lace. In 1725, 30 craftswomen from the monasteries of Brabant were even sent to the Novodevichy Convent in Moscow, who organized a workshop where they learned to weave lace.
By the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th century, almost all types of lace known in European countries were produced in Russia
By the middle of the 19th century, lace-making on bobbin in Russia began to take the form of a folk art craft.
By the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, there were more than 100 thousand lace makers in 17 provinces of Russia.
The largest centers of lace craft
Sh Vologda lace
Ш Lipetsk lace
Ш Kirov (Vyatka) lace
Ш Ryazan lace
Sh Leningrad (Kirish) lace
Vologda lace- occupies the first place in Russia in the production of lace. They are distinguished by a clear division into a background and a pattern, a clear construction of geometric patterns, the edge ends in a smoothly outlined tooth.
Lipetsk (Yelets) lace has existed since the beginning of the 19th century. Yelets lace is distinguished by clear small forms of ornament, graceful lattices; in the coupling lace, large forms of floral ornament prevail: flowers, leaves.
Kirov (Vyatka) lace- lace-making in the Vyatka province arose at the beginning of the 18th century. The patterns are distinguished by light openwork forms, ending with sharp teeth, enriched with pico loops. Coupling Kirov laces are characterized by complex patterns and originality in the weaving of the “velushka” braid.
Ryazan (Mikhailovsky) lace- lace craft reached a special development in the 70s of the XIX century. Laces are characterized by simple lace patterns with the names "bells", "toes", etc. They are distinguished by rich colors, and they are also characterized by a combination of lace with embroidery.
Leningrad (Kirish) lace have been known since the 18th century. Coupling weave is characterized by a rare weave and a mesh woven from bleached threads with the addition of blue and red. Lace designs are dominated by generalized forms of plant and geometric motifs.
lace craft hand machine
2. MACHINE METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING LACE
a The most complex artistic designs are obtained on multi-shuttle lace machines. They allow you to make lace not only different widths, but also of different density and thickness
a Braided lace is made on bobbin braiding machines, working on a principle similar to manual bobbin weaving
a Embroidered lace and guipure fabric are made on automatic embroidery machines
a An increasing share falls on laces made on warp knitting machines of the “Supergarant” type
3. MANUAL METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING LACE
Lace self made can be made by knotting:
Macrame-- technology is tying knots in combination with weaving elements. The patterns of this lace are mostly geometric
Lace tatting does not have a reverse side. Its main elements are circles and arches from nodal chains.
Weaving is the most common hand lace making technique.
The most famous weaving method is bobbin. involved in the weaving process. a large number of threads. The technology of weaving lace is based on two methods: interlacing and weaving.
4. TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT FOR CREATING HAND LACE
1. Roller has a cylindrical shape. For manufacturing, you will need a piece of dense fabric, which must be stuffed with hay or small dry sawdust.
2. Stand used during operation to stabilize the roller. It can be placed on a table or on the floor.
3. Bobbins- these are wooden sticks, thinner in the "neck", that is, in the part on which threads are wound for weaving lace.
4. pins are intended for fixing weaves of threads or bobbins.
5. Awl is a thin needle set in a wooden handle, used to puncture a lace pattern into a chip.
6. crochet hook always used when working in the coupling technique of weaving.
5. Skolok-- this is a drawing showing the points of the pricks, in which the pins are placed, braided with threads
5. ELEMENTS OF LACE
In lace weaving, there are 4 main elements: braid, linen, mesh and backing. In addition to the main elements, additional weaves are used that decorate lace: filigree, different kinds lattices, spiders, chains, unwind loops, etc.
Weaving lace is very difficult. But with all the complexity of woven patterns, everyone can learn how to make lace.
Today lace decorates different types clothes, and it is very beautiful! The ancient crafts of lace weaving have been preserved.
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Listen to an amazing story, not a fairy tale, but a true story. Tsar Peter often traveled to overseas countries. He loved to see with his own eyes how and what was done in the world. I figured out where something good can be learned. One day he comes to the Azure Sea. The overseas king meets him, leads him to the palace, shows him all sorts of curiosities.
- I feel sorry for you, Tsar Peter, - he says. You live among dark people. They don't know anything, they don't know anything. Take a look at the craftswomen in my kingdom. - He shows a lace tablecloth.
Tsar Peter looked at the tablecloth and laughed:
- Where did you see birches and daisies in your country? This is Russian lace, from my state.
That cannot be! cried the king. I began to examine the tablecloth in a magnifying glass. Look, don't look - a birch will remain a birch. The king got angry and ordered to call the merchants. They threw themselves at the king's feet and confessed everything:
Guilty, your royal highness! Oh, guilty! They did not lead to execute, they led to pardon. This is not our craftswomen business, it was bought from Russian lacemakers - from seven Katerinas. No one weaves lace better than them, you will not find a richer pattern anywhere ...
- What are the seven Katherines? Do you want to fool me again? - The overseas king was angry. Here Peter had to intercede for the merchants. - There are such lacemakers in my kingdom. I have heard of them, though I have never seen them. And the overseas king dispersed - there is no faith in Tsar Peter.
- I won't believe it, - he shouts, - until I see it with my own eyes! Show me those Katherines! Let's go to them this very minute!
Well, the fees are short-lived for the kings. They ordered the horses to be harnessed and drove off. Ahead - guards, behind - guards in case the robbers attack.
They go, they go, they look - towards the wagon crawls. In it is a merchant with a bundle on his knees. Asks his royal guard:
- a kind person, won't you show us the way to the seven Katerina-lacemakers?
The merchant told me how to get there, and he says:
I am returning from them. I bought curtains. You can take a look. The merchant opened the curtains. Everyone so gasped. On each of them a whole fairy tale is woven. On one - about Morozko, on the other - about Sivka-Burka, and on the third - about Vasilisa the Beautiful. The overseas king saw the curtains and shouted:
My! Buying! And he threw a purse of gold to the merchant. And Tsar Peter is silent, as if it does not concern him. We moved on.
- Good man, won't you tell us where the seven Katherines live?
- The merchant answers:
- I know how not to know! Behind that line... I bought a blanket from them. Won't you take a look? - The merchant unfolded the veil - a miracle and nothing more! On one side, spring is catching up with summer, on the other, winter and autumn are embracing.
- Buying! Buying! - screams. Treasurer, give him a cap of gold. - And he himself covered in an armful - and in a sleigh. He is afraid that the merchant, which is good, does not change his mind or Tsar Peter intercepts the purchase.
We drove a little more and reached the village. We drove up to the house where the lacemakers live. Seven Katherines came out onto the porch. All stately, fair-haired, clear-eyed. They bowed to the guests at the waist, invited them to their house.
Each has its own pattern woven onto the pillows: in one, waves seem to be streaming at hand, in the other, birds flutter over unprecedented flowers, in the third, stars are scattered along the lace ...
The spirit of the overseas king was captured by such unprecedented beauty. Asks:
- And who makes patterns for you? Who invents them?
The lacemakers answer:
We don't have any patterns. Folk tales help us. The overseas king wanted to buy fairy tales, but they are not for sale.
- Tales are not for sale. With us, what is not lace is a fairy tale.
- Tsar Peter asked to tell them. And the eldest Katerina told him a fairy tale, which is called ...
Vologda lace, one of the types of Russian lace, woven on bobbin. A continuous and non-crossing smooth line that forms the pattern of Vologda lace acts as a woven braid ("vilyushka") against the background of a thin openwork "lattice" ("coupling" technique)
The history of the appearance and development of lace is full of mysteries and contradictions. There is a legend that in 1725 Peter I ordered lace-makers from the Brabant monasteries to teach orphans in the Novodevichy Convent how to weave lace. How long this training existed in the monastery is unknown. But what is interesting, in the samples of lace, preserved in different parts of Russia, and in the names of these laces, many old lace-makers pointed to the “draban (ie Brabant) thread”.
Lacemaking, as a craft, has existed in the Vologda province since 1820. During the time of serfdom, all significant landowners' estates in the province had lace "factories" that supplied lace products to St. Petersburg and Moscow. And one of these factories was founded by the landowner Zasetskaya three versts from Vologda in the village of Kovyrino no later than the 20s of the 19th century. There, the serfs wove the finest lace for trimming dresses and underwear, imitating Western European patterns.
Over time, lace weaving moved from the landowner's workshops to the folk environment and became one of the types of folk art that reflected the needs and tastes of the broad circles of the local population. In 1893, in the Vologda province, craftswomen were engaged in lace craft, in 1912
In the years, the lace-makers of the Vologda region were united in artels, in 1928 a professional lace school was restored in Vologda, which began to train lace-makers under the new conditions. The school did a lot to revive the traditional methods of lace-making, to restore the ornamental solutions typical for this center.
In 1930, the Volkruzhevosoyuz was created in Vologda, which united 50 artels scattered throughout various villages with a number of lace makers. The form of labor organization in the artels was mainly home-based. In the premises of the artels, the craftsmen came to receive the assignment and hand over the finished product. And only in 1932 the Union created collective workshops, which made it possible to improve the technology of making lace, to strengthen control over the quality of lace products.
In 1960, in connection with the abolition of industrial cooperation and the transfer of lace artels to the state system - the local industry, 5 lace factories were formed in the Vologda region, and in 1964 the Vologda specialized lace association was created, which became one of the leading traditional crafts in Russia.
Lace-making Varieties of lace Bobbins Lace-making is an extremely beautiful folk craft. The variety and quirkiness of lace patterns is entirely determined by the imagination and skill of the craftswoman. Lace In the Ryazan province, Mikhailovskoye lace (made in the city of Mikhailov) has long been known, the craft of which gained great development and fame in the 1870s. Mikhailovskoe lace differs from other types of Russian lace in its bright colors and dense patterns (they have local names: "bells", "capes", "towns", etc.). By tradition, lace is used in the decoration of products in combination with embroidery with a counted stitch and a cross.
Lace-making Lace-making as one of the types of needlework has been known in Rus' for a long time. They, like embroidery, were engaged in by women of all classes. Lace production came to us from France in connection with the spread of European fashion in Russia. But if the dress of kings, princes and boyars was decorated with lace made of gold, silver and silk threads, then linen lace was used in folk clothes, and from the end of the 19th century - cotton lace. In the villages Do not teach idleness, but teach needlework. Lace weaving is an extremely beautiful folk craft. The variety and quirkiness of lace patterns is entirely determined by the imagination and skill of the craftswoman. Lace was decorated with them only for festive clothes, but mostly lace was woven for sale, because. they were in great demand among rich people and abroad. This trade was carried out in monasteries, special artels and in landowners' estates, as a rule, in those areas where flax was grown. For weaving lace, bobbins were used - chiseled or carved wooden sticks, and linen, colored silk, gold and silver threads served as the material. The pattern of lace, as a rule, was close to the ornament of peasant embroidery, rich in floral and geometric patterns. Gradually, some villages and even entire regions began to specialize in the production of lace. The lacemakers of different villages used their own special weaving techniques, and the work of each could often be recognized by its characteristic ornament and special quality. Vologda and Yelets lace are well known. This craft was practiced in Rostov, Balakhna, Torzhok, Ryazan, Galich, Klyazin. The lace produced in these places was distinguished by particularly fine workmanship, elegance and clarity of the pattern, and a picturesque combination of various materials.
Varieties of lace In lace weaving, several varieties can be distinguished: braided, embroidered, knitted. Braided lace is numerical and fragmented. Numerical lace is made according to the number of weaves without a preliminary pattern, it is characterized by simple geometric patterns. Chipped lace ("paired" and "coupling") is made according to a "splinter" - a pattern stabbed onto cardboard or thick paper. Paired lace is made with many (up to 200) pairs of bobbins and is mainly used to create dimensional lace - stitching and scalloped edges for decoration. In the coupling technique, piece goods are woven: tablecloths, capes, bedspreads, etc. They are woven in parts, which are then connected with small fasteners with a crochet hook. All the countless patterns of lace are built on their various patterns and variations of combinations, often original and unique in each locality. Do not teach idleness, but teach needlework Lace weaving is an extremely beautiful folk craft. The variety and quirkiness of lace patterns is entirely determined by the imagination and skill of the craftswoman. Lace
Do not teach idleness, but teach needlework For weaving lace, very simple devices and tools are used: a pillow, a hoop, bobbins, a block, a pin, a crochet hook and lace chips. Threads are the main raw material for weaving lace. The pillow is a round roller, tightly stuffed with chaff, sawdust or hay dust. The hoop is a wooden pillow stand 75 cm high and 40 cm wide. Bobbins are turned round wooden sticks with a recess for winding threads, like on spools. Bobbins also serve as a plumb line for threads during weaving. Since the lace is woven in pairs of bobbins, the thread is also wound on a pair of bobbins (about three meters of thread for each); when winding the thread on the bobbins, the thread goes from the bottom up. Thus, it turns out that one end of a three-meter thread is wound on one bobbin, and the other on the other. This allows, when weaving lace with a loop, to put the middle of the thread on a pin, which is stuck into the roller to form a lace pattern. The lace maker, turning over the bobbins in her hands, twisted the threads around the pins, stuck in a certain order, forming a pattern. The finished lace was easily removed from the pins. Bobbins Lace weaving is an extremely beautiful folk craft. The variety and quirkiness of lace patterns is entirely determined by the imagination and skill of the craftswoman. Lace
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History of the city of Vologda The ancient Russian city of Vologda, whose history began in the 12th century, can rightfully be considered the custodian of the ancient traditions of the culture of the North. Vologda lace has earned well-deserved fame and wide recognition for its high artistry, decorative richness, and perfection of execution technique.
The modern city of Vologda
Vologda lace products
Vologda lace products
Vologda lace consists of a large, expressive pattern, filled with a dense, continuous, smooth linen cloth of the same width, clearly visible against the background of patterned lattices. The scan is thick, often colored. In addition to motifs of flowers and leaves, motifs of horseshoes, combs, and fans are often found in the ornament.
Materials and tools for weaving lace To make lace products, first of all, bobbins are required - wooden sticks with a neck on which threads are wound. Bobbin, also coca, coco, whooping cough - a wooden stick on which threads are wound for weaving lace. Bobbin weaving is also called "cushion lace". Bobbins are different, short and thick, long and thin. The tree may be different. Birch, spruce, maple are the most popular materials for light bobbins.
To make it convenient to work, the pillow must be placed on a stand. The stand can be a small prefab to install the roller on the table. Pins are used to fasten the interlaced threads in lace.
Skolok - a working drawing of lace. It is applied to dense and sufficiently elastic paper or cardboard in the form of dots. Pillow, in the form of a roller, on which lace is woven.
Lace elements Lattice Grid-lattice, which serves as a background.
Lace elements Nasnovki - small figures of very dense weaving.
Color scheme White Blue Black Cream Gray
Lace patterns
Lace patterns
Materials needed Black or purple matte cardboard. Lace pattern. Simple pencil. White corrector in pencil.
Drawing technology Put a lace template on cardboard, fastening them with a paper clip. With a simple pencil, circle the drawing on the template, pressing hard on the pencil. Remove the template, a visible imprint will remain on the cardboard. Circle the resulting print with a white corrector. The lace pattern is ready.
List of materials used http:// www . etretro. ru / pic 26229. htm http://lubimoe-delo. ru/index. php/archives/200 http://fototerra. ru / Russia / Vologda / Westa-4003. html http://fototerra.ru/Russia/Vologda/Westa-4003.html http:// www. snowjinka. ru/index. php? cPath =194_174 http://www.linens.ru/catalogue/vologda_laces/
