World fashion trend recent years - an appeal to national traditions. Our designers do not lag behind and also actively use folk flavor in their models. Clothes in the Russian style today are not the lot of grandmothers from folklore ensembles, but part of the wardrobe of fashionistas. Today I will tell you in more detail how to create a trendy look and look elegant and feminine.

The Russian style of clothing makes reference to the national Russian costume. The characteristic features of the outfits are a simple loose fit, natural fabrics, an abundance of decor in the form of embroidery, complex ornaments and bright colors. Clothing - loose undershirts, skirts and sundresses, men's blouses - comfortable and practical, ideal for a troublesome life. Outerwear for a harsh winter - a fur coat with fur inside, a caftan, a fur hat and a scarf.

History of appearance

At the beginning of the 20th century, with the Russian Seasons, Diaghilev opened a window to Russia for Europe, awakening the interest of Europeans in an unknown country. Then the wave of emigration after 1917 spilled the Russian intelligentsia (and not only) throughout Europe and even across the ocean. There, yearning for their homeland, the emigrants tried to compensate for the loss of Russian motives in clothing and everyday life.

Soon, Coco Chanel drew attention to clothes that were unusual for the European eye and, as they say, it started: Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, Kenzo and many others in their collections “cited” and continue to “quote” Russian flavor.

Models and styles

Fitting is not typical for the Russian style, clothing should not hinder movement and cause inconvenience, because female models characterized by a straight loose fit, high waist, long skirts and sundresses to the floor. Characteristic features are puffed sleeves, a turn-down or gathered collar with an elastic band. Clothing was decorated with hand embroidery, lace, ribbons and ribbons. All these details are used in modern patterns.

Colors

Various combinations with white are inherent in women's folk dress: white-blue, white-red, white-green, white-yellow or golden. Today, fashion designers in branded models are not limited to the usual combinations and create clothes from fabric that imitates Khokhloma, Gzhel, Zhostovo painting, and matryoshka painting.

However, some designers are of the opinion that restrained tones are more suitable for a Russian woman, because they keep their collections in the Russian style in soothing colors.

Who will suit

Properly selected feminine clothing in ethnic style will equally suit both young girls and accomplished ladies. In addition, characteristic floral prints perfectly hide the imperfections of the figure, which is ideal for full women.

How to dress

If you decide to dress in the national style, this does not mean at all that you need to put on a magnificent sundress and put a kokoshnik on your head. A few bright details are enough (shirt with embroidery on the collar, long skirt floral print, scarf, burlap bag) to diversify the familiar look.

Hats

Russian style is characterized by round fur hats in winter and scarves in the warmer season. A Pavloposad or Orenburg shawl will perfectly complement the look in any season, both as a headdress and as an accessory.

Accessories

In addition to a scarf, as an addition, you can choose a belt for a dress or shirt, a canvas bag, a straw hat, a cape, stylized earrings and a necklace. For a harmonious look, you will need one or two accessories.

Where to wear

Wherever you wish! A spectacular dress with a print of a pavloposad shawl will be equally useful for every day and at a festive evening. Style sets almost no limits. Well, perhaps not all business negotiations can afford such beauty. Although a slight accent in the form of a scarf would be appropriate here, the main thing is to know when to stop.

What to combine

In original women's suit there are no trouser sets, therefore, if you decide to strictly adhere to the Russian style in the image, choose a dress or a skirt as the main clothing.

If you decide to “play” a little with styles and choose trousers, stop at a narrow straight or cropped model, and put on a loose shirt with embroidery on top. And an accessory in the form of a bright scarf will go well with a strict office suit. Look at a selection of photos with the right combination of things:

Shoes

To strictly maintain the style, choose shoes with low heels or wedges with a woven platform and a minimum of leather elements. Intricate woven sandals and slippers with floral embroidery will come in handy. Winter shoes- of course, boots, fortunately, now there are enough interesting and “shameless” models.

Manicure hair and makeup

In the old days, young ladies did not have such a variety of decorative cosmetics, therefore, in an ethnic image, naturalness and naturalness will come in handy: short manicure with neutral polish and nude shades in makeup. A recognizable feature of a Russian beauty is a tight braid, and if you are a happy owner lush hair, be sure to braid the braid with a ribbon.

If the braid is not destined to be, carefully collect the hair into a knot (loose beauty will not work for a beautiful girl) and decorate your head, for example, with a flower wreath.

Decorations

Massive beads, heavy earrings in folk style, bracelets can be used as decoration. Hand-made accessories from natural materials: stone, straw, textiles, wood.

What not to wear

To maintain style, ditch the trousers, jeans and shorts, as well as high-heeled shoes - all this is knocked out of the original suit and knocks down accents. But if you decide to just dilute your usual look with an ethno-detail, this is not necessary.

When choosing clothes for the image, give preference to things made from natural fabrics: linen, silk, cotton, wool. Choose things not strictly according to the figure, but free cut. If you like a bright patchwork model - take it: patchwork is very Russian. If you have embroidery, give preference to one-color work.

Your main goal is to create a feminine and chaste image, so forget about skimpy outfits.

How to care for clothes

Since ethno-style implies practicality and natural fabrics, such clothes do not require special care, except for the standard one: periodic washing and ironing. Cotton and linen items are best ironed slightly damp, so you have to make less effort to smooth out wrinkles.

It is unlikely that anyone will undertake to challenge the validity of the Russian proverb: "They meet according to their clothes, but they see them off according to their mind." Popular wisdom says that important attribute, a reflection of the inner essence of a person is the clothes that he wears. So it was at all times. The relevance of this proverb does not weaken over the centuries.

We inherited from our ancestors richest history, including the history of Russian costume. Smooth lines, flying silhouettes, intricate patterns, bright colors - this is not a complete list of the features of clothes in the Russian style.

female beauty sung of old. In old Russian songs, fairy tales and legends, we find descriptions of the most beautiful Russian girls. An important part female image at all times, of course, there was clothing. For each occasion, whether it was everyday work or a holiday, a suit was supposed. By clothing and its individual elements, one could judge the social and family status.

Among the common people, the fundamental principle was the comfort of clothing. This is directly related to the hard peasant labor. Clothing should not restrict movement, natural fabrics fit the body, giving lightness and comfort. Despite the seeming simplicity, the desire for beauty has always lived in Russian people. This was expressed in the desire to decorate even casual clothes. Particular attention was paid to embroidery. Man-made works of art were unique and inimitable. Girls embroidered their clothes, creating flowers, birds, and other fancy patterns on it. Skillful ornaments gave harmony and completeness to the image. With the help of embroidery, even a simple dress gave its owner a feeling of joy and celebration.

A slightly different atmosphere reigned in the princely houses. Here, clothes in the Russian style were distinguished by the richness of materials and finishes. Embroidered precious stones dresses and suits complemented the majestic image of their owner, served as a distinctive feature, an indicator of his status and lifestyle. Expensive, dense fabrics reliably protected the body of a prince or boyar, creating an additional border between him and the outside world.

Protection from prying eyes, maintaining an integral image is the main purpose of clothing in the Russian style. In the folk tradition, everything is extremely chaste, there are no short skirts and deep necklines. For a Russian person, according to Christian tradition, the beauty of the soul has always been more important than the beauty of the body. Clothing served only as an addition to the inner world, and not as an alternative to it.

Clothing in the Russian style has always been single and unique. One of the reasons for this was manual work. Regardless of the status, the girl independently prepared a dowry for herself, investing her soul and preparing for the beginning of a new life stage. Making clothes was considered a noble occupation. Even in rich families, everyone, from young to old, knew how to sew. Sewing was an integral part of life. Clothes were not just sewn on their own, but also woven, embroidered, trimmed by hand.

Clothing for special, festive occasions can be distinguished by the presence of lace trim. Lace is one of the features of Russian-style clothing. So, for example, lace served as an indispensable decoration of a wedding dress. Flying, thin, gentle - it symbolized the purity of thoughts and the beginning of a new life. What excitement, what trepidation accompanied the creation of a wedding dress and the preparation of a dowry for the girls. How many thoughts were born in my head, how many songs were sung during this sacred action! All emotions, experiences and feelings were transferred through the hands into the created clothes. She warmed and illuminated not only from the outside, but also from the inside. That is why we can say with confidence that Russian-style clothing is the embodied soul of the people.

Every piece of clothing handcrafted craftsmen, was a real work of art. The best traditions of creating clothes in the Russian style today are followed by the “House of Russian Clothes of Valentina Averyanova”.

Traditional clothing in the modern world is not just a tribute to fashion and tradition. It is used not only in thematic events when recreating the unique national color. It is gratifying that at present, Russian-style clothing or its individual elements are becoming an integral part of Everyday life person. This means that we are returning to our roots. We are aware that Russian culture is rich and diverse. It does not lose its relevance, but only strengthens its position, reviving in us a deep and sincere love for our native land and original culture.

Despite the fact that Western standards of beauty and fashion have been firmly established in Russian society, they have not been able to defeat the desire in Russian people for pure and bright, for what our national culture and history has been imbued with since ancient times. This means that Russian-style clothing will live on. Currently, it is in demand both among older people and among the younger generation. What is the reason for the huge popularity of Russian national costume? Such clothes are imbued with love, they reflect the most beautiful traditions of our people, give joy and peace, create, preserve and increase harmony and happiness.

"The House of Russian Clothes of Valentina Averyanova" provides an opportunity to join the best traditions of our national culture, to become part of the world of light, goodness and joy. Clothes in the Russian style, made with love, by true masters of their craft, are the embodiment of the soul, a reflection of its best, brightest sides.

Russian folk costume is a bright original element of the richest native culture, which synthesizes in itself different kinds decorative art: traditional elements of cut, ornament, the use of materials and decorations characteristic of Russian clothing in the past.

Russian fashion and women's clothing

Nowadays, Russian style is warmly welcomed in European fashion. The Pavlovsky scarf is perceived as a very fashionable element of clothing. Russian culture has introduced embroidery with colored threads, beads, stones, gold and ribbons into the world fashion. Now many designers use fabrics in the Russian shawl style in their work. A traditional Russian shawl is painted with flowers: there is one large element in the center, and the flowers begin to decrease in size towards the edges. Another inimitable and unique feature of the Russian national style is lace. It looks romantic, mysterious and exotic. Fashion in Russian folk style allows the use of lace in all types of clothing and accessories.

Recently, fashion has returned in the winter season. Modern felt boots are produced in Russia and abroad. Now they are embroidered with multi-colored patterns, beads and leather inserts.

I would like to note that a fashionable and modern image in the Russian style is formed taking into account the number of elements of the Russian costume. It should not be combined with things made in the style of vintage and grunge, because such a combination will look more like a poor relative from a distant past than an image of a beautiful fashionable lady.

Ksenia Sobchak in a Pavlovo Posad shawl

Alena Vodonaeva

Miroslava Duma

Conquered the hearts of contemporaries and: sheepskin coats, bloomers, as well as hats with earflaps. Although they came to Russia in the fifth century from the Baltic states, they were accepted here only from the nineteenth century and since then they are considered primordially Russian. In a sewing workshop in St. Petersburg, the hat was improved and ribbons were added to it. Since the Great Patriotic War, earflaps have also been registered in the women's wardrobe.

Because of their practicality and ability to transform, earflaps are in fashion today. And thanks to the imagination of our designers, they come to the wardrobe of fashionistas of the whole world in new and new variations. They are wonderfully accompanied by improved models of boots, mobile phone cases, wallets, handbags, belts, mittens and many other accessories of the same Russian folk style.

An interpretation of a hat with earflaps in the collection of Jean-Paul Gaultier

It did not remain unused, of course, and thanks to which children around the world began to look like babies from bast pictures. If such clothes are made according to folk canons and only from natural materials, then it becomes very high quality, beautiful and comfortable. All mothers who have given preference to the Russian style in children's clothing will confirm that modern folk clothes for children are very comfortable, beautiful and cool. Loose-fitting shirts, blouses, sundresses and skirts, decorated with cute embroidery and lace, give children a touching doll-like look.

Clothes in Russian folk style

Ethnic motifs in the outfits of contemporaries are increasingly popularized. Elements can already be guessed in collections based on the fashion of other countries. But many characteristic details have also been introduced into our culture, for example, from Indian (paisley or “cucumbers”), Scottish (original cage), gypsy outfit (variegated puffy skirts) and so on. Of course, both Russian and any other clothes are slightly "modernized", but the main idea remains: these are free, comfortable, practical outfits. In national style best houses fashion today offer their own options for outfits.

Ulyana Sergeenko is a well-known fashion designer in Russian style

Outfits from the collection of Ulyana Sergeenko

For example, - dresses of wide models, with assemblies, elastic bands, with embroideries and pleats at the neck. Sleeves - raglan, short, with elasticated cuffs. The hem of their hem is slightly rounded. IN folk traditions- natural material (most often linen, cotton and even hemp). Long checkered shirts, slightly elongated, with a comfortable hood. A short fastener is placed in the front in the middle or on the side (a kosovorotka option). The sleeves are rolled up, fastened with a strap. On the hips - elastic band. Beautiful and comfortable!

Russian motifs in the Gauthier collection

Especially often used in women's wardrobe, children's dresses with frills and edging of snow-white lace with fine embroidery are also decorated. On the top of the dress there is a loose elastic band, the straps come unfastened; lined with fine cotton. Flannel shirts, Russian-style sundresses, linen tunics, blouses, ribbons, hair bands, trouser belts, woven dresses with shoulder straps, knitted children's and women's capri trousers and many other clothes in Russian folk style are also decorated with an ornament. And if once for poor peasants, embroidery or lace was the only way to give the usual outfit a festive look, today the analogues of those decorations are equated with high art.

As a result, the conclusion suggests itself that a modern fashionable person should be able to skillfully combine jeans and Russian ethnic motifs in his wardrobe. Even a business dress decorated in Russian folk style will look luxurious at the most strict receptions. Therefore, allow yourself to show your essence of a Russian person not only in actions, words and thoughts, but also in clothes.

Russian folk clothes photo

Natalya Vodyanova

Ulyana Sergeenko in a John Galliano coat

Miroslava Duma

Ethnic style in the modern fashion industry has many directions. Among all the diversity, Russian stands out especially clearly. Bright attractiveness, originality of performance, an organic combination of folk ornaments and expressive Slavic tradition look spectacular in the outfits of modern fashion designers.

Historical base for modern creative experiments

Russian style of dress became popular all over the world about a century ago. The revolution of 1917 provoked a mass migration of Russians to distant countries, where the forced migrants had the opportunity to acquaint the world with the unique culture of Russians.

The Russian style gradually took root in European and then American fashion culture. Effective patterns on fashion catwalks turned into breathtaking dresses with luxurious folklore patterns. Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich were the first to decide to try on elements that vividly demonstrate what the Russian style of clothing is - colorful shawls, extravagant kokoshniks, blouses and suits with complex decor in the spirit of ethnic motifs.

Russian style of dress in the modern fashion industry

Typical elements of the Russian style are nesting dolls, Khokhloma painting, woolen shawls, down scarves. Most clothing attributes have a winter orientation, which is predetermined by the specific climatic conditions in Russia.

The first couturiers who dared to use "purely national" patterns to create spectacular dresses for women were Yves Saint Laurent and Paul Poiret. The following fashion designers and fashion houses could not resist the beauty of primordially Russian motifs and charismatic style:

1. Chanel and Kenzo spotted an extravagant kokoshnik and a brutal Budyonovka. Women's clothing in their interpretation looked very colorful and unusual;
2. Vyacheslav Zaitsev is a domestic meter in the fashion industry who creates luxurious women's dresses and charismatic outfits using original patterns in the ethnic Slavic style;
3. Denis Simachev from time to time demonstrates spectacular ensembles for women to the public.

The main elements in patterns and ready-made fashion ensembles

Stylistic combinations in the Russian style format suggest the presence of several characteristic attributes at once. First of all, you should pay attention to the styles of dresses for women. The main qualities are simplicity, comfort and convenience.

Dresses are characterized by rather long straight skirts resembling a bell, sundresses with straps are popular. Many use patterns of outfits with a very high waist. For tailoring, only natural materials and textures are used - linen, cotton, silk, wool, leather and fur.

Details

For a perfect pattern of a traditional Russian dress or costume, it is extremely important to pay attention to minor details. Collars in the vast majority of cases are turn-down round.

The sleeves are either straight, or with a lush design - like "lanterns". Often they use an elongated peplum, laced belts, ribbons in the format of fasteners.

Color compositions and drawings

The combination of red with black and white patterns is in favor. Various shades of green, yellow, orange and golden tones are also relevant. Since fabrics are used of natural origin, all shades of bleached and natural linen imitating burlap. Gray, beige, cream tones are used only as a basis for creating a bright, complex image.

Fashionable ethnic style

Surely the brightest, most memorable, most colorful is. And not only because his range of outfit coverage is much greater than in any other, but also because ethno style is a style of good mood.

Briefly about historical facts

Ethnic style involves the use of various elements and items of clothing of national costumes. They pay attention to everything: not only individual items and their elements, but also materials, cut, accompanying shoes and accessories.

Indian classic women's outfit

Classical folk clothes from various countries (India, Russia, Egypt, Greece, etc.) are increasingly being used to create modern collections and fashionable bows.

fashion clothes in ethnic style

The main rules that designers adhere to when creating robes are giving maximum comfort and naturalness.

For the first time, ethnic style in clothing began to be promoted among hippies.

The hippie style in clothes is not just an image, it is a whole philosophy of life

It was quite normal to find Indian saris somewhere in the wilderness of Canada or painted fabrics and floral scarves in a modern city in the USA.

Similarly, various Greek, Russian and African motifs fell in love.

Greek ethno style

Ethnic style in clothes for the first time surprised from the podium in the 10s of the XX century. It was then that the famous designer P. Poiret showed the whole world an extraordinary collection of clothes in the East Asian style. As some say, his ethnic style was inspired by none other than the Scheherazade ballet.

Later, a collection with Slavic roots was also created, which was called "Kazan". A little later, at the age of 20-30, the unforgettable Coco Chanel also fell in love with the ethnic style and continued the work of Poiret: she created new Slavic collections.

Sketches of clothes in the Russian style from Chanel

Motifs of hot Africa in collections fashion designers Philip Miller and Yves Saint Laurent impressed many.

Ethnic style by Yves Saint Laurent

The ethnic style of these masterpieces was reflected in the use of fringes, plant and animal designs, various turbans, headbands and prints in the form of mythological birds. Ethnic garments are increasingly appearing in fashion shows. The last of them were Balmain, Kenzo and Christian Dior.

Egypt

The clothes of many designers here and there hide the echoes of the mysterious Ancient Egypt. First of all, this is expressed in a certain color scheme: white, blue, gold, turquoise and yellow.

Egyptian ethnic style involves the use of natural colors

As prints, they most often prefer to use various ancient hieroglyphs, geometric figures or images of the elements, pharaohs, symbols of Egypt (scarab beetles, lotus flowers, various deities and birds).

Ethnic style of Egypt - a variety of geometric shapes
American singer Rihanna in an ethnic Egyptian dress

Egyptian ethno style practically does not limit the choice of fabrics. Here you can safely choose linen, silk, fur and wool, leather and suede. And of the decorative elements, metal plates, embroidery and fringe are preferred.

A variety of women's tunics, floor-length dresses over one shoulder, richly decorated fabrics - this is how fashion dictated to women in those days.

The Egyptian style of clothing remained unchanged for more than one millennium.

Men also chose loose tunics and loose shirts, which were usually adorned under the bust or at the level of the hips.

Greece

Greek ethnic style is a bit similar to Egyptian. This fashion also includes loose-fitting items for both men (tunics, shirts, pants) and women (floor-length dresses or middle length). However, Greek fashion, in comparison with Egyptian, has become more elegant. Freedom and comfort remained, but at the same time some zest was added.

Greek classical fashion
Modern Greek style for men

If Egyptian fashion was focused on geometric shapes in cut, then in the Greek one can observe V-shaped necklines, as well as more feminine silhouettes of dresses. Of the main fabrics, light, translucent ones were preferred: chiffon, silk, some types of fine knitwear. Dresses made of such “flying” fabrics flowed beautifully over the figure and emphasized female silhouettes. From colors they tried to choose pastel colors, white, gold, blue, and from prints - drawings of plants and trees.

Russia

Russian traditional clothing holds a special place in the hearts of designers, especially for the abundant use of embroidered elements, buttons and colorful motifs.

There is a complete variety in the choice of fabrics: silk, linen, cotton, satin and velvet, cloth and even lace, which were additionally decorated with embroidery, beads, numerous stones, fur inserts and fringe.

Russian style of clothing embodies wealth and beauty

Russian fashion is full of colors: bright red, green, blue, brown, terracotta, black and gold - all these colors were actively used in clothes.

The golden color in clothes at all times enjoyed great recognition among women.

The golden color in clothes at all times enjoyed great recognition among women, it is not inferior in its popularity even now.Prints are dominated by geometric patterns, images of plants, flowers, birds and animals.

Real Slavic fashion - chaste beauty and folk traditions

It is this fashion that is known for its bell skirts, felt boots, colorful scarves, A-line sundresses, fur coats, men's shirts made of linen and cotton with ties on the chest, jackets and a variety of both short and elongated vests with luxurious fur elements and trim.

The harsh Russian winter makes fur the king of fashion collections

And all this was actively decorated with embroidered threads and gold elements, decorated with precious stones, beads and expensive fabrics (brocade, satin and velvet).

Russian jewelry can make any girl a real queen

India

Incredibly colorful and vibrant country. In it, not only the various clothes of women and men are bright, but also their most famous spices. in their own way bright colors compete with Russian.

Indian ethnic clothing is full of all the colors of the rainbow: pink, purple, red, gold, white, turquoise and orange.

Indian fashion has collected the richest colors

But, unlike many countries, each color in this country has its own meaning. The most popular pattern is paisley ("Indian cucumber"), as well as a variety of geometric ornaments, flowers and images of sacred animals. Since India is a fairly warm country, the most popular fabrics are linen, chiffon and silk.

Fashion in India is flying fabrics, rich jewelry and jewelry.

main feature- It's multi-layered. Like Egyptian fashion, Indian women's dresses are also present over one shoulder. At the same time, the piece of fabric that is worn on the shoulder is decorated the most. Often, all outfits for both women and men are elongated.

Indian classic outfit for a woman

Representatives of the stronger sex wear elongated button-down jackets and elongated shirts.

classical men's fashion in India

Indian fashion is a real rainbow of colors. At the same time, ethnic clothing does not make a clown out of a person, but gives grace and some mystery.

Africa

Roasts are known for their sand, coffee and milk, terracotta and white tones. To make some color accents, red, white and blue colors were sometimes added.

Africa is the scorching sun and bright outfits

African folk clothes are just a storehouse of numerous prints. It is almost impossible to find plain clothes in it: on each of them you will see a variety of drawings and patterns - the claws of animals, trees and stones, feathers and claws of birds.

African style is the most recognizable ethnic style in clothing and accessories.

Women's ethnic or folklore is quite diverse: sundresses, shorts and skirts of various lengths, tunics, short tops, blouses and swing cardigans.

African ethnic style of clothing and accessories attracts many women with its exoticism and originality, as well as a variety of variations.

Men's fashion in Africa involves wearing loose-fitting trousers and shorts, loose-sleeved shirts and jackets with various drapery and decor elements: fringe, stones, cord weaving, wooden and metal objects.

African fashion for men

African ethnic style has its own charm. Light fabrics, intricate patterns and accessories, which are made mainly from natural materials (amulets made of stones and fangs, various weaving of leather cords, wooden beads) have a certain magic and attractive primitiveness.

African style is the most exotic of all existing clothing styles.

Some things that bear the imprint of a particular culture, one way or another, are in the closet of every fashionista. There are a few simple recommendations that will allow you to combine modern trends with folk accents:

• ethno style involves the use of those colors that are characteristic of a particular country or direction, for example: either these are geometric patterns of Egypt, or bright floral Slavic prints;
• try not to combine some futuristic things with ethnic ones: pay attention to light fabrics and free, flowing lines;
• sometimes just one item is enough to embody an ethnic trend: a light sari or sandy floor-length sundress with bright beads will create a unique image and charm;
• accessories and shoes require special attention: woven leather and wooden sandals, open sandals and moccasins are popular, and among accessories there are various decorations that were inherent in a particular era.

The main feature of ethnic style clothing is the use of natural fabrics, bright colors and contrasting combinations.

Ethno does not lose its popularity. Famous world designers do not cease to delight with new collections. Their garments are inspired by Egyptian, Russian, Indian, Japanese, African and other cultures. Every year, at the next shows of world designers (John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli, etc.), new breathtaking ethnic clothes appear on the catwalks, which combine modern requirements and ancient traditions of a particular country.

Three Russian brands prove:

tradition can be trendy

In India, it is easy to meet a woman in a sari, but it is unlikely that you have ever seen a man in a shirt or a girl in a kokoshnik in the center of Moscow. “The national costume in everyday life will look more extravagant than fashionable,” admits Natalya Loginova, head of the D3 Fashion and Design Center (All-Russian Museum of Decorative, Applied and Folk Art). “But turning to traditions is one of the trends in modern design.”

Russian style returns to the catwalks and to life. But, oddly enough, few people can explain what it is. "Khokhloma? Nesting dolls? Yes and no," says Loginova. "Vladimir Pozner somehow said that the Russian style is, first of all, impudence. And I agree with this. Our designers are bold. And in last years in Russia there are more and more of them, although fashion is not the easiest way to make money."

We talk about three Russian fashion brands. Some of our heroes already have a showroom in the center of Moscow. Some people still sell things online. But they all work in Russian. Boldly.

Embroidery, aprons, ancient motifs and a scientific approach

Svetlana Levadnaya, brand Levadnaja Details

“One woman saw our apron at the exhibition and immediately bought it. I dissuaded her,” says Svetlana Levadnaya. “Because it is not the cheapest thing, and not the most necessary thing in the 21st century. I was worried that my husband would not like such an expensive purchase ... And he saw the apron and said: "Finally, you bought yourself something normal!"

"Russian is not yellow-red!" - says Svetlana. She is sure that most of our women are muted colors.

Items from Levadnaja Details are really expensive: they are made only from natural fabrics (mainly silk, cashmere and Italian linen) and each has beadwork and semi-precious stones, which takes at least a month self made. And not every girl can wear such clothes: try to offer someone to tie an apron over jeans or put on a kokoshnik with evening dress. "My clients are very strong and confident women," says Svetlana. "Lost, confused people don't come to us."

Today, references to Russian folk costumes can already be seen both on the podium and at social events. Svetlana started her business in 2006 and says that at that time they "looked at her like she was crazy."

Svetlana Levadnaya

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The first skirt we made was knee length with a black velvet apron. And many reacted to it like this: "God, what is this?" Everything national was unfashionable, incomprehensible. Sometimes my hands dropped - it seemed that this could not be changed

Svetlana Levadnaya

Designer Svetlana Levadnaya has never been a fashionista. But everything Russian has been loved since childhood. "When I was about nine years old, my mother ordered a blouse for me," she recalls.

Embroidery is the hallmark of the brand. One thing takes at least a month of manual work

Svetlana was born and raised in the Crimea, studied in Germany, and in 2004 moved to Moscow. She is a linguist, translator, and she took up her own brand in a scientific way: she studied museum exhibits and collected a whole library about embroidery and folk costumes. Svetlana wanted to make fashion in Russian. And the prototype of her models is not Pavlovo Posad shawls, which were created only at the end of the 18th century. These are ancient things, still pre-Christian (Svetlana does not like the word "pagan"). With embroidery, shoulders (this is something like wide collars) and amulets.

Svetlana Levadnaya

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For our scarves, we take patterns from books and museum exhibits. In fact, these are not just patterns. Every symbol there means something. All our clients want to know what. But no one will ever translate this language, at most - individual signs. If someone tells you that he has read everything, do not believe

Svetlana Levadnaya

The original Russian costume is now commonly called peasant. Because since the time of Peter I, only simple people. Cutting through a window to Europe, the tsar forbade wearing Russian clothes at court. One can argue for a long time whether this decision was the right one - we will never know what our life would be like without that "Europeanization". Svetlana calls that decree "an arrow to the very heart." “The Russian costume has never been just clothes,” she explains. “It was a saga written in patterns. It told about the human race, about his desires ... Compared to what it was, we are like a weak sprout next to a powerful tree. But at least I can do that."

Mantles - something like collars - can be worn with dresses and with simple T-shirts

Building your own brand is not easy. It is even more difficult to start selling things that are not even close to the mass market - neither in versatility, nor in price. Svetlana collected money bit by bit. And having sold the first dress (then, 12 years ago, it cost 3-4 thousand euros), she invested the entire amount in boxes: "Decent packaging is the first thing to do. It shows that the designer respects his work." Then there was the first small showroom. Levadnaya tried to expand and move every year. Today she has a large showroom in the center of Moscow.

Svetlana does not sew herself. But since the age of five he has been painting. For her brand, she created a special embroidery.

Svetlana Levadnaya

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Many, when they see her, immediately say: "Are you an artist?" This is not handicraft embroidery, this is embroidery-painting. Now we have about 570 samples of it. I created them with my own hands, and then trained the first masters. This is our business card

Svetlana Levadnaya

The Levadnaja Details team has 20 embroiderers and four seamstresses. The showroom presents samples made for models. But the things you like are sewn for each specific customer. "You're just tiny, so everything is a little big for you," Svetlana tells me, while I try on a dress made of pale blue linen. "But it should sit loosely, we have almost no tight-fitting clothes. It's a casual thing - a large bag and comfortable shoes will do here I don't have enough nerves for heels." Another dress - dusty pink, to the floor, made of thick silk - more like an evening dress. All models have very simple styles: otherwise, embroidery and ornament will look too catchy. And the colors are mostly muted, although there are also a few bright models. “Slavic women don’t like a riot of colors,” explains Svetlana. “But our clients from the Caucasus also find something for themselves, they just need to be chosen more carefully.”

In these clothes it is easy to feel like a Russian beauty - regardless of nationality

Svetlana admits that her brand leans more towards art than commerce. Some of her clients say they would like to pass these things on by inheritance. “We have two categories of buyers. One is women who are very wealthy, very independent. And the second is women with an average income who save up for several months and then order,” she says. “We get letters from different cities of Russia, especially often from Siberia Even if they do not buy, they say: "Thank you for being you, we thought no one is doing this anymore."

Svetlana is sure that most people have a distorted idea of ​​the Russian style. And it is important for her to show people: Russian clothes are beautiful. “I always say: Russian culture is five stars. And Russian fashion is haute couture,” she says. “Creating a thing, I always think: is this worthy of being considered a continuation of those traditions? .

Nina Samokhina, Secret Garden brand

“As a child, for some reason I was embarrassed to tell my mother that I wanted to sew. Somehow I bought a lining fabric, green, with a sheen - it seemed to me that the fabric was very beautiful, like silk,” says Nina Samokhina. “I sewed myself a skirt on the sly for the New Year It turned out to be a complete crap, I never wore it. Mom says: “It’s a lining, they don’t sew from this, why didn’t you ask me?” And I say: “I don’t know, it seemed to me it was beautiful, but you wouldn’t allowed me to buy it ... "

Nina is just starting to work on her brand: so far she had only one big collection

Now Nina's mother helps her daughter to sew collections. And once she sewed and knitted clothes for her daughters. Once I redid an unsuccessful jacket given by someone: “There the color was not very good and the coquette was big. And my mother cut off the coquette, knitted a new one, sewed it on, made the lining out of a rabbit ... Then my sister went to it. The jacket became a hit, I still remember it ". Then in Soviet years and in the early 90s, everyone altered something, and Nina's grandmother even made silk flowers at home - they wore them like brooches. "Looks like Gucci," laughs Nina.

That unsuccessful skirt did not stop Nina - she sewed all her childhood. But she went to study as an architect, and there was no time for models. In 2014 she moved from Minsk to Moscow, she was going to enter the British Higher School of Design for illustration. And in parallel, she was preparing for the wedding and decided to sew a dress for herself. Then she even wanted to open a wedding agency, but instead she founded the Secret Garden brand.

So far, Nina had only one large collection - a diploma. “I wanted to make it completely out of outerwear, but the curator said that it would be better if it was more diverse,” says Nina. outerwear I decided to do it because there is not enough of it. Our mass markets are mostly Spanish, they don’t quite understand what minus 20–25 degrees means.” Therefore, Nina’s collection includes a velvet bomber jacket (it is insulated and designed for frost up to 22 degrees), a scarf hat (“I call it "perelina"), a beige raincoat ("Dana Scully in The X-Files wore a raincoat all the time - I thought she was so beautiful!"), and warm coats. One of them was sewn from Soviet mohair scarves: "I looked for them all over Moscow, and then I selected them by color. Mohair has a long pile, when you grind it, you then have to go through it with a needle and pull it out of the seams - then the seams will not be noticeable."

Nina says that in her models there are motives of the Soviet past, although she did not really find this past - she is only 28. But in her childhood there were grandmother's chests, Soviet patterns and old albums. “We played cards with my grandmother - she was telling something ... So for me this is familiar and dear, although I myself did not experience it.” And she also has in her head a "batch" from the movie "Amelie" and the cartoon "Prostokvashino". "The palette is very mine there. All the colors - deep green, for example - are just the way they should be. And my mother is very French there - these scarves, kareshechka ... But at the same time, the interiors, the walls - everything is drawn, as it was with us. The whole atmosphere - native Soviet, and my mother is such a little girl.

Nina reflects all this "Soviet flair" in her clothes. Even the velvet bomber jacket, which looks very modern, refers to childhood memories: "It's big, round, it looks like a balloon. It's like in winter as a child, when you were put on five sweaters, a fur coat, a hat, and they hold you by a scarf from behind." Russians folk motives her clothes also have it: for example, one coat was tailored on the basis of a Russian shirt. And in one of the prints there are motifs of Russian tiles: "I used to feel ashamed to draw something similar: can't you come up with anything? But you still process, add your own."

Nina especially loves prints - she is an illustrator. She had a mini collection of colorful shirts. For one of them, the girl collected and digitized a herbarium: the result was a print with leaves. "In Britain, I was a bit of an alien. Usually everything is concise, architectural there. And I wanted to do something funny. Although I understand that not all people are ready to wear it." Nina had to ditch her "crazy retro shirts" with big bows: it turned out that for most of her friends this is too much. "I don't want to go into art at all," she says. "Clothes are a utilitarian item."

Nina is an illustrator, and prints that she creates herself are important in her clothes.

So far, Nina does not have her own production. She works at home, side by side (or rather, back to back) with her engineer husband, sometimes interrupted by yoga. Nina has several jobs: her own brand does not yet bring enough income, she has to take orders. She partly sews clothes herself, partly at local factories. Sometimes things from the collections are sewn for a specific buyer, fitting to his figure. " A good option: the thing fits well, it’s definitely sold, everyone is happy, - Nina smiles. “It’s not like my whole closet is full, but there’s no money.” She also doesn’t have a showroom yet, all sales are through social networks and acquaintances.

Now Nina sews to order Wedding Dress- the second in his life. She also works on prints with cats and fur coats from natural fur. "How do I see the Russian style today? - Nina thinks. - It is fur. Patterned. Warm. Fairytale. Ironic. With bright juicy colors." Sounds like a description of her future collections.

Furs, peacocks, fairy tales and hats for the Russian winter

Natalia Khovanskaya and Nastya Vyaz, Tsar Bird brand

“How difficult it is with sleeves here,” I say, trying on a shower warmer - something like a jacket with gathers at the waist. Her sleeves "release" her arms just below the elbows, but do not end, but hang down like ribbons. “They only seem uncomfortable from the outside,” says Nastya Vyaz. “You quickly get used to them,” adds Natalya Khovanskaya. “It’s like you have a servant: at first it’s strange, and then it’s like it’s necessary.” In this outfit, you really want to straighten your back and look around for a servant. And then sit on a trio of horses and go somewhere to eat pancakes with caviar.

The creation of a model begins with the fabric - as Natalia explains, she dictates the style

Natalya is a classic Russian beauty: blonde hair, braid, transparent Blue eyes. Nastya looks like a Bashkir or Japanese: "Although in my family everyone up to the fourth generation is either Russian or from Ukraine. I don't know why I turned out like that!" And together they create clothes from Russian fairy tales.

As a child, Nastya went to kindergarten in a yellow blouse that looked like a tailcoat. Her mother sewed, wore hats and watched records of all the Weeks with her daughter haute couture that she could find. At the age of eight, Natalya made herself a short green skirt from her mother's favorite dress (she, of course, cursed terribly) and later continued to sew, but learned to be an economist. Nastya received a diploma in physics, but worked as a stylist. Their brand was born when she began to select clothes for Natalia. “I realized that there is no adequate offer for those who suit the Russian style,” she says. “These are either Pavlovo Posad shawls, or dresses for half a million rubles.

And then in London and Paris, they began to approach the girls and ask where they could buy this. “We jokingly said that we have our own brand, and people began to ask for contacts,” says Natalia. So they joked that in 2017 they founded Tsar Bird.

The girls wanted to "modernize" traditional Russian clothes, keeping its idea. At first, looking at soulguards, fur mantles (similar to voluminous collars) and blouses, it is not very clear how and where they can be worn. But if you measure, there will be no questions left. “When we created the mantle, I thought: God, what are we doing? Yes, it looks fabulous, but how practical will it be?” Natalia recalls. I feel comfortable in it, and for the first week I wear it without taking it off at all." Natalya also wears warm hats similar to Russian kokoshniks in the cold season: "We made them on purpose, because we wanted to look beautiful both in winter and in summer."

Now Nastya is mainly engaged in design, and Natalia - in organization. Tsar Bird does not yet have its own production and showroom - things are sewn in factories and sold via the Internet. Most buyers are from Russia, but there are also abroad. The business is not yet profitable and does not even pay off, but, as Natalya says, according to all the canons, it should be so.

Creating a brand, Natalia and Anastasia saw their clients as women taking care of the house and children. But their clothes were more to the taste of actively working ladies, often with their own business. “It is important for them to look beautiful and bright, but not to spend a lot of time on it,” explains Natalia. “And our things are self-sufficient, they do not need to be supplemented with anything. You put on a dress, shoes, fix your makeup - and in a minute you are ready to go out ". Tsar Bird also has male clients - they mainly sew blouses for them.

In these clothes it is difficult to imagine yourself at work or on the subway. But the girls explain: they want their clients to look bright every day.

Doing something non-standard is always risky: you can not find your customers and burn out. But the girls are sure: if you create, then create something unique. "Sewing pencil skirts and blouses is pointless," says Natalia. "Everyone does it." However, they also have a pencil skirt and a black blouse in their collection. I put this blouse on backwards first. “We always say: if you don’t know which side to put on a thing, then it’s definitely designer,” Natalya laughs.