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Pattern of women's summer skinny trousers. Pattern of skinny women's trousers


Hello!
In this article, we will analyze the construction of the construction of classical women's trousers according to the calculation-graphic method of cutting TsOTSHL.
For the drawing of a pattern of trousers according to the TsOTSHL method, we need the following measurements:

Name of measurements and conventions

cm

Waist (St)

28,5

Half hips (Sat)

43,5

Seat Height (Sun)

Front length (chipboard)

103,5

Back length (Dsz)

105,5

Side length (dsb)

Knee Waist Length(Dtk)

58,5

Product length (Di)

Pants bottom width (Wn) (according to model)

16 (half measurement)
All the indicated measurements in the table are given as an example, I will use these measurements in the calculation formulas. Therefore, be careful and use your values ​​when calculating. How to take measurements for a pattern of trousers, you can learn from this article .

In this technique, the following allowances for free fit are proposed:
In this example, we'll be using denim pockets for close-fitting trousers.

Let's move on to building the front half of the trousers
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper, which is 10-15 cm larger than the measurement of the length of the product.

Drawing grid
Departing from the top edge of the paper 5-10 cm and from the left edge 10-15 cm, draw a vertical segment TH equal to the measure of the length of the product:

TN \u003d Di,

(segment TN=Di=100cm).
seat line level: from the point T down, we postpone the measurement of the height of the seat + CO and mark the point I:

TY \u003d Sun + CO,

(TR = 29 + 0 = 29cm).
Hip line level find by the formula:

YaB \u003d 1/3 x TY,

we put the resulting value upward from point I and put point B (YB \u003d 29: 3 \u003d 9.7 cm).
Knee line level: down from the point T, set aside the measurement of Dtk and mark the point K:

TK = Dtk

(TC = 58.5 cm).
Now let's draw horizontal lines from each point: T, B, Z, K and N.

Hip Width
We will find this value by the formula:

BB 1 \u003d 0.5 x (Sat + CO) - k,


k \u003d 1cm - for small ones;


The resulting value will be postponed from point B to the right horizontally and put point B 1
(BB 1 \u003d 0.5 x (43.5 + 0.5) - 1 \u003d 21 cm).


Through point B 1 we draw a vertical straight line up and down to the intersection with the horizontals from the points T and I, the intersection points will be denoted by T 1 and I 1.


Centerline position
To the left of the point B 1 we set aside the segment B 1 B0, the value of which we will find by the formula:

B 1 B 0 \u003d 0.15 x Sat + 1.5 + 0.25 x CO,

where CO is an increase in free fit to the measurement of Sb (see table),
(B 1 B 0 \u003d 0.15 x 43.5 + 1.5 + 0.25 x 0.5 \u003d 8.2 cm).
Let's draw a vertical line up and down through the point B 0 until it intersects with all horizontal lines, the intersection points will be denoted by T 0, I 0, K 0 and H 0, respectively.


Step line position
To the right of point B 0 we set aside a segment equal to the length of the segment BB 0 (we measure the length according to the drawing) and put point B 2 (B 0 B 2 = BB 0 = 12.8 cm).


Bottom Width
The width of the front half of the trousers at the bottom is found by the formula:

0.5 x Shn - k, where

k \u003d 1cm - for small ones;
k \u003d 0.5 cm - for trousers of moderate volume;
k \u003d 0 - for bulky loose trousers.
We will put the resulting value to the right and left of the point H 0 and mark the points H 1 and H 2
(H 1 H 0 \u003d H 0 H 2 \u003d 0.5 x 16 - 1 \u003d 7 cm).


Width at knee level
If the width at the level of the knee is known, then its value is laid off on both sides of the point K 0. If the width of the trousers at the knee level is unknown, then we will determine the width of the front half at this level using graphical constructions:
First, connect the points B and H 1 with a straight line. This line will intersect the knee line at a point that we will denote K 11.


From this point, we set aside to the right or to the left the segment K 11 K 1, the value of which depends on the desired model of trousers:
K 11 K 1 \u003d 1-1.5 cm to the right - for trousers of small and moderate volume along the entire length;
K 11 K 1 \u003d 0-1 cm to the right - for trousers that are loose in the middle part, without filling from the side in the knee area;
K 11 K 1 \u003d 0.5-2 cm to the left - for trousers that are loose in the middle part, when filled from the outside below the level of the hips.
In our example, we chose a trouser style with a tight fit, so we will set aside 1.5 cm to the right of the K 11 point and put the K 1 point (be careful and choose the length of the segment required for your style of trousers).


We connect the point K 1 with the points B and H 1 with straight lines.


We measure the length of the segment K 1 K 0 and put this value to the right of the point K 0, we get the point K 2 (K 0 K 2 \u003d K 1 K 0).


step line
Connect point K 2 with straight lines to points B 2 and H 2. In this case, the line K 2 B 2 will cut the line of sitting at a point, which we will denote I 2.


From the point I 2 we set aside a distance equal to 1/3 of the segment I 2 K 2. From the obtained point to the left, we set aside a deflection equal to 0.5-1.5 cm - than more difference between the width at the level of the hips and the knee, the greater the amount of deflection. Connect the points I 2 and K 2 with a smooth concave line.


Waist level in front
Determine the level of the waist in front by the formula:

T 1 T 10 \u003d Dsb - Dsp,

with a positive result, this value is postponed down from the point T 1;
with a negative - up from the point T 1 and mark the point T 10
(T 1 T 10 \u003d 106 - 103.5 \u003d 2.5 cm).


For figures with a protruding belly, as well as for trousers with a front tuck, it is necessary to build a withdrawal of the middle front line from the point T 10 to the left horizontally by 0.5-1 cm, we mark the resulting point as T 11 (T 10 T 11 \u003d 1 cm).


middle line
Let's construct the bisector of the angle with the vertex at the point I 1. On this bisector we construct an auxiliary point M, which is determined by the style of the trousers:
I 1 M = 2.5 cm - for tight trousers;
I 1 M \u003d 3 cm - for loose-fit trousers.
(In our example, we use the value I 1 M = 2.5 cm).


Points T 10 (or T 11), B 1, M and I 2 are connected by a smooth line.


Lateral line
The position of the side line at the waist level depends on the style of the trousers, depending on this, we select the required value, which we set aside to the right of the T point, we denote the resulting point as T 2:
TT 2 \u003d 0-1 cm - with a uniform distribution of folds throughout the part from the side to the middle seam;
TT 2 = 1-2 cm - with the distribution of folds closer to the middle of the part.


Connect point T 2 with a straight line to point T 10 (or T 11), and a smooth curved line to point B.


bottom line
Up from the point H 0, set aside the amount of deflection and set the point H 10:
H 0 H 10 \u003d 0.5 cm - for wide trousers;
H 0 H 10 \u003d 0.7 cm - for tight trousers.
Connect the point H 10 with straight lines to the points H 1 and H 2.

For checkered, striped and unruly fabrics, the bottom line is left horizontal when ironing.

The total amount of tucks on the front half
The sum of the tucks of the front half is found by the formula:

S \u003d T 2 T 10 (or T 2 T 11) - 0.5 x (St + CO) - k,

where CO is an increase in free fit to measure St (see table), and where k \u003d 0.5-1.5 cm is the fit at the waist.

1) If the total amount of darts of the front half turned out to be no more than 3 cm, then we design one tuck on the axis line, setting aside half of the result obtained along the waist line from the point of intersection with the axis line in each direction.
The length of the tuck is 8-13 cm, where longer lengths are taken with a flat stomach, and smaller ones with a protruding one.


2) If the total amount of tucks of the front half turned out to be more than 3 cm, then we design the second tuck, distributing the result equally among both tucks. We design the second tuck symmetrically to the axis lines at a distance of 3-4 cm from the left side of the first tuck. The length of the second tuck is also 8-13cm.

For voluminous trousers in the upper part, the total amount of darts on the front half is determined by the formula:

S \u003d T 2 T 10 (or T 2 T 11) - 0.5 x (St + CO),

i.e., excluding fit at the waist.

This completes the construction of the front half of the trousers.


Let's move on to building the back half of the trousers
The drawing of the back half of the trousers usually continues to be built on the grid of the drawing of the front half. If it is difficult for you to draw a pattern on top of another, then on a blank sheet of paper you need to re-build the drawing grid, i.e. draw a vertical segment equal to the measure of the length of the product, build lines for the waist, hips, seat, knee and bottom and draw an center line along the same calculations that we did for the front half of the trousers.


Now let's do the calculations
Find the width of the back trousers without crotch:

Shzp \u003d (Sat + CO) - BB 1,

where CO is an increase in free fit to the measure of Sb (see table)
Wzp \u003d (43.5 + 0.5) - 21 \u003d 23 cm.
Overall stride width for the front and back halves of the trousers we find by the formula:

Shshaga \u003d 0.4 x (Sat + CO) - k,

where CO is the increase in free fit to the measurement of Sb (see table), and where
k \u003d 1cm - for trousers of moderate and large volumes along the hips;
k \u003d 2cm - for trousers of small volumes along the hips.
Step \u003d 0.4 x (43.5 + 0.5) - 2 \u003d 15.6 cm.
Calculate the step width of the back half at hip level:

Shshaga zp \u003d Shshaga - B 1 B 2,

where B 1 B 2 is the step width of the front half, the value of which is measured according to the drawing.
Step zp \u003d 15.6 - 4.6 \u003d 11cm.

Step line position
From point B 0 to the right, we set aside the segment B 0 B 4, the dyne of which we find by the formula:

B 0 B 4 \u003d (Shzp + Shshaga zp) / 2 + 0.5

(B 0 B 4 \u003d (23 + 11) / 2 + 0.5 \u003d 17.5 cm).


To the left of point B 4, set aside a segment equal to the width of the step of the back half and put point B 3:

B 4 B 3 \u003d Sh step sn,

(B 4 B 3 = 11cm).
Through point B 3 we will draw a vertical to the intersection with the waist line, we will denote the intersection point as T 3.


Center line retraction
To the left of the point T 3 we set aside the segment T 3 T 31, which we find by the formula:

T 3 T 31 \u003d 0.1 x Sat - k, where

k \u003d 1-1.5 cm - for trousers of small and moderate volume;
k = 2-3 cm - for voluminous trousers.
(T 3 T 31 \u003d 0.1 x 43.5 - 1 \u003d 3.4 cm).


Connect points B 3 and T 31 with a straight line, continuing it both up and down.


On this line upwards from point B 3 we set aside the segment B 3 B 31, which determines the balance of the trousers, we will calculate its value by the formula:

B 3 B 31 \u003d 0.05 x Sat - k, where

k \u003d 0 - for trousers of small and moderate volume;
k \u003d 0.5-2 cm - for voluminous trousers.
(B 3 B 31 \u003d 0.05 x 43.5 - 0 \u003d 2.2 cm).


On the same line upward from point B 31, we set aside the segment B 31 T 32:

B 31 T 32 \u003d B 1 T 10 (or B 1 T 11) + (Dsz - Dsp),

where the value of the segment B 1 T 10 (or B 1 T 11) is taken from the drawing of the front half of the trousers
(B 31 T 32 = 16.8 + (105.5 - 103.5) = 18.8 cm).


Hip Width
From point B 31 we detect an arc, the radius of which is equal to the width of the back half along the line of the hips, until it intersects with the continuation of the line of the hips; we denote the intersection point B 5 (B 31 B 5 \u003d Wzp \u003d 23cm).


sideline position
From point T 32 we will detect an arc with a radius equal to the segment B 31 B 5, to the intersection with the continuation of the waist line, we will call the intersection point T 4 (T 32 T 4 = B 31 B 5).


To the right of the point T 4 horizontally, we set aside the segment T 4 T 41 - the solution of the side tuck, the value of which depends on the style of the trousers:
T 4 T 41 \u003d TT 2 (from the drawing of the front half) - for low-volume trousers;
T 4 T 41 \u003d 3-4cm - for moderate and large volumes, where is a large value for figures with a convex side.
In our example, T 4 T 41 \u003d TT 2 \u003d 1 cm.


Connect straight lines point T 41 with points B 5 and T 32.


Rear tuck solution
We find the tuck solution by the formula:

S \u003d T 41 T 32 - 0.5 X (St + CO) - k,

where CO is an increase in free fit to measure St (see table), and where k \u003d 0.5-1 cm is the fit at the waist.
1) If the size of the opening of the back tuck turned out to be less than 5 cm, then we design one tuck. The position of the axis of the rear tuck is found by the formula:

T 32 T 5 \u003d 0.4 x B 31 B 5.

We postpone the result obtained along the waistline to the left of the point T 32 and put the point T 5
(T 32 T 5 \u003d 0.4 x 23 \u003d 9.2).


The axis of the back tuck is located perpendicular to the waist line, so we will build a perpendicular to the segment T 32 T 41 at the point T 5. From the point T 5 to the right and to the left along the waist line, set aside half the solution of the back tuck. The length of the tuck is 9-13cm.


2) If the size of the opening of the back tuck turned out to be more than 5 cm, then first in exactly the same way we design a tuck with a solution of 5 cm, and by the remaining value we increase the removal of the middle back line along the waist. That is, we set aside the remaining value along the waist line to the left of the T 32 point.


We connect the resulting point with a straight line with point B 31.


3) If the size of the tuck solution turned out to be significantly more than 5 cm, then we increase the withdrawal of the middle back line to 2 cm, and distribute the rest equally into two tucks. The position of the first tuck is found by the same formula:

T 32 T 5 \u003d 0.4 x B 31 B 5;

we place the second groove 3-4 cm from the left side of the first groove. The axes of both tucks are drawn perpendicular to the segment T 32 T 41; darts length - 9-13 cm.


Bottom Width
Find the width of the back half at the bottom using the formula:

0.5 x Shn + 0.2cm ,

the resulting value will be set aside on both sides of the point H 0 and put the points H 3 and H 4
(H 0 H 3 \u003d H 0 H 4 \u003d 0.5 x 16 + 0.2 \u003d 8.2 cm).

Width at knee level
Calculate the width of the back half at the level of the knee using the formula:

K 3 K 0 = K 0 K 4 = K 1 K 0 + k,

where K 1 K 0 - we take from the drawing of the front half, and where
k \u003d 2 cm - for straight, slightly tapered trousers;
k \u003d 2.5 cm - for trousers that are very narrowed down.
The resulting result will be set aside on both sides of the point K 0 and mark the points K 3 and K 4.


Lateral line
Let's draw a side line, connecting the points T 41, B 5, K 3 and H 3. From the waist line to the hip line, we draw the side line with a smooth convex line. The side line of the back half must be leveled along the side line of the front half:

T 41 B 5 K 3 N 3 \u003d T 2 BK 1 N 1.


step line
Connect point K 4 with straight lines to points B 4 and H 4. In this case, the segment B 4 K 4 will cross the seat line at a point that we will denote I 4.

middle line
To the left of the point I 41 we draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the line B 3 T 32, the point of intersection will be denoted by I 3.


Let's build the bisector of the angle with the vertex at the point R 3 and on this bisector we set aside the segment R 3 M 1, the length of which depends on the style of the trousers:
I 3 M 1 \u003d 1.5 cm - for trousers with a slight increase in seat depth;
I 3 M 1 \u003d 2.5 cm - for trousers with a deeper seat line.
(In our example, I 3 M 1 \u003d 1.5 cm).


We draw the middle line with a smooth straight line, connecting the points T 32, B 31, M 1 and I 41.

Pants are one of the most comfortable and versatile wardrobe items not only for men, but also for women. Depending on their color, fabric, cut, style, they are worn to work in the office, in a club, they relax at home and in nature, trousers can also become part of a festive look.

Comfortable and beautiful trousers can be chosen for any type of figure: somewhere you need to add centimeters, somewhere shorten, maybe add them with pockets or stitching. And in tailoring, the pattern plays a major role. "Playing" with the basic pattern, experimenting with details, fabrics and colors, you will definitely be able to find your model, which will only emphasize all the advantages of the figure, hiding the flaws.

Of course, good trousers can be bought. But it is so rare to find something truly unique in stores, and mass production is focused on typical figures, while there are a great many options for various proportions. And then sewing comes to the rescue, helping both to make an individual cut to fit the figure, and to complement the model with small details that help reveal your individuality.

Dimensions

Both for choosing women's trousers, and for tailoring, it is important to know your sizes and, first of all, this is the waist circumference (FROM) and hip circumference (OB).

  • Pants size 42: FROM 66 cm, ABOUT 92 cm;
  • Pants size 44: FROM 70 cm, ABOUT 96 cm;
  • Pants size 46: FROM 74 cm, ABOUT 100 cm;
  • Pants size 48: FROM 78 cm, ABOUT 104 cm;
  • Pants size 50: FROM 82 cm, ABOUT 108 cm;
  • Pants size 52: FROM 86 cm, ABOUT 112 cm;
  • Pants size 54: FROM 90 cm, ABOUT 116 cm;
  • Pants size 56: FROM 94 cm; ABOUT 120 cm.

You also need to take measures such as:

Front and side length, first and second stride length, knee "waist" length, thigh circumference (do not confuse with hip circumference), seat height, bottom width.

Pattern of women's trousers

A correctly constructed pattern provides more than half the success in sewing any product. We add for you various variations of trouser patterns that you can download and build patterns with your own sizes.

Pattern of classic women's trousers. It is by modifying it that you can get other styles.

The breeches are still in fashion. Therefore, a pattern of such a model of trousers will definitely come in handy.

As well as a pattern of sports trousers, because sports and healthy lifestyle life is always at the peak of popularity.

Skinny pants are also versatile. They are suitable for both casual and formal wear. Add a pattern of tight pants.

Fabric choice

First you need to decide what kind of pants you want to sew. If these are wide trousers, harem pants, then, as a rule, they have no problems with fit and almost any fabric is suitable for them. But if your choice fell on trousers that are rather narrow in the upper part, then the selection of fabric should be taken responsibly.

In this case, light fabrics such as raincoat fabrics, velveteen, denim synthetics, nylon, fabric with metanit, etc. will not work. However, they are suitable for sewing not tight trousers, but wide ones, such as bananas, trousers with elastic, with an increase at the waist and on the hips, with all sorts of folds, tucks.

Product length and width

If you decide to create a pattern from scratch, then before you build it, you should pay attention to some of the nuances of different models.

Classic trousers:

  • The width of the trousers at the bottom is determined by the length of the foot.
  • The width of the trousers at the knee is equal to the width at the bottom.
  • The length of these trousers is up to the middle of the heel.
  • Accordingly, we try on only in the shoes with which we will wear them.

Skinny pants:

  • At the bottom, their width is less than in the classic ones.
  • In the knee, of course, more than at the bottom.
  • Pants are tried on barefoot, the length should be to the floor.

Flared trousers:

  • The width at the bottom they have more than the classic.
  • Less at the knee than at the bottom.
  • In shoes, the length of such trousers is 1 - 1.5 cm from the floor.

A selection of useful videos

A simple step-by-step construction of a women's trousers pattern is a great start for those who dream of sewing them perfectly! The basic pattern that we offer you is the basis on which you can model any trousers- capris, jeans, low-waisted, elasticated and even maternity pants! In order for the products to have a good fit on the figure, you need to take all the necessary measurements as accurately as possible.

For building basic pattern the following steps will be required:

Waist (OT)

Hips (OB)

Knee girth (OK)

Bottom Width (SHN)

Side seam length (db)

Seat Height (from waistline to infragluteal crease) (BC)

Knee Height (VK)

Step length (LS) (on the inside of the leg from the groin to the floor) or DB-VS

IMPORTANT! Measure Step length can also be calculated using the formula: Side seam length minus Seat height.

Estimated values ​​required to build a pattern:

The width of the front half of the trousers (Shppb) (1/4 ABOUT minus 1 cm)

Width of the back half of the trousers (Whzpb) (1/4 OB plus 1 cm plus 0-1 cm for freedom of fit)

ADVICE! To accurately take measurements, measurements should be taken by wrapping the tape tightly around the body, preferably in underwear. The circumference of the waist is measured at the thinnest point of the body, the circumference of the hips is measured at the protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account all the bulges (the "breeches" area), the maximum volume of the hips. The length of the trousers is measured along the side from the waist line to the floor. The seat height is measured while sitting on a chair - from the waist line, a centimeter tape is lowered strictly vertically to the seat surface.

Waist circumference (FROM) - 72 cm 36 18
Hip circumference (OB) - 98 cm 49 24.5
Bottom width (SHN) - 42 cm 21 10.5
Side length (DB) - 106 cm
Seat height (Sun) - 25.5 cm
Knee height (VC) - 56 cm
Step length (LH) - 80.5 cm
The width of the front half of the trousers (Shppb: 1/4 OB minus 1 cm) - 23.5 cm
The width of the back half of the trousers (Shzpb: 1/4 ABOUT +1 cm + 0-1 cm increase in freedom of fitting) - 25.5 cm
¼ Shzpb \u003d 25.5: 4 \u003d 6.4 cm

Construction of the front half of the trousers

Rice. 1 Building a pattern of the front half of the trousers

We start the construction of the pattern from the front half. In the upper left corner, stepping back some distance from the edge, put point A.
Draw vertical and horizontal lines. From point A to the right, set aside the Width of the front half of the trousers: AA1 \u003d 23.5 cm (The width of the front half of the trousers is calculated).

From point A down the vertical line, set aside AB \u003d 25.5 cm (Seat height by measure).
AK \u003d 56 cm (Knee height according to the measure).
AN \u003d 106 cm (Length of trousers on the side).
BB1 \u003d 7.9 cm (1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips by the measure + 3 cm).
Draw horizontal lines from points B1, B, K, H1.

From point A1, lower the perpendicular down to the horizontal line drawn earlier from point B. Points B2 and C are obtained.
В2В3 \u003d 5.9 cm - The step width of the front half, is calculated by the formula: 1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips by measure plus 0.5 - 1 cm. (Note: for tight-fitting trousers, the value of the increase is 0-0.5 cm, for standard - 0.5-1 cm, for free wide - 1-2 cm).

Divide segment B1B3 in half, point B4 is obtained. HH1=B1B4. The arrow line of the front half is drawn through points B4 and H1 to the waist line, points A2 and H1 are obtained.

From the point H1 to the left and right, set aside 1/4 of the width of the bottom of the trousers according to the measurement minus 1 cm: H1H2 \u003d H1H3 \u003d 9.5 cm. Connect the points B1H2 and B3H3 with auxiliary straight lines. Points B0, C1, K2, K3 were obtained.
Set aside 0.5 cm from point B2 to the right. CC2 = 1/2 CC1. Connect the points C1C2 with a straight line.
A1A3 \u003d 0.5-1 cm. Draw an auxiliary line from point A3 through point 0.5 to line C1C2. Draw a line for the bow of the front half, from point A3, through the auxiliary point 0.5 in a straight line, then along the pattern to point C1.

Calculation of the tuck in the front half of the trousers

Set aside from point A3 the segment A3A4 \u003d 1/4 OT plus 1.5 - 2.5 cm for the tuck, plus 0-0.5 cm for the fit. Draw the waist line of the front half of the trousers according to the pattern, lifting the side line from point A4 upwards, it is 0.5 cm.

The location of the tuck in the front half. Divide the distance between points A2 and 0.5 in half. Draw a perpendicular to the line of the hips. Draw a tuck 9-10 cm long and 1.5 - 2.5 cm deep, moving the end of the tuck to the left by 0.5 cm, as shown in the drawing.

Depending on the model, narrow the trousers in the knee area by 0.5-1 cm, drawing a concave line.

ADVICE! Hem allowances are easier to work if the side and crotch lines are perpendicular to the hem line, at least by the width of the hem allowance. Therefore, draw the lines of the side and step seams downwards at a right angle, stepping back 0.5 cm from points H2 and H3 to the left and right.

Construction of the back half of the trousers

Rice. 2. Building a pattern for the back half of the trousers

The construction of the back halves of the trousers is made on the basis of the drawing of the front half.
Set aside 1 cm from point B4 to the right: B4B5 \u003d 1 cm (removal of the arrow of the back half). Connect points B5 and K1 with a dotted line.
From point B5, set aside 6.4 cm to the right: B5B6 \u003d 6.4 cm (1/4 of the width of the back half of the trousers).
From point B0, set aside 4 cm upwards: V0D \u003d 4 cm. (Note: for figures with protruding buttocks, this value is 3 cm, for figures with flat buttocks, this value is 5-6 cm. For wide trousers, they also take 5-6 cm) .

Rice. 3a. Construction of a perpendicular to the segment ГВ6.

Rice. 3b. Construction of the segment Г1Г2

Connect points D and B6. From point B6, draw a perpendicular to the segment GV6 up and down (Fig. 3a). Continue the line of the waist and hips to the left and right.
Next, you should build a segment G1G2 with a length of 25.5 cm: G1G2 \u003d 25.5 (the width of the back half of the trousers is calculated). Draw the G1G2 line parallel to the V6G line, so that the G2 point lies on the hip line (Fig. 3b).

ADVICE! Draw perpendicular and parallel lines subject to certain conditions along their length, it is much easier to use a large triangular ruler.

Rice. 4a. Building a pattern for the back half of the trousers

Rice. 4b. Building a pattern for the back half of the trousers

Measure the distance В5Г2 and set aside the same distance from point В5 to the right: В5Г2 = В5Г3.
The lines of the side and step cut of the back half of the trousers are drawn parallel at a distance of 2 cm from the lines of the front half of the trousers.
Set aside along the knee line from the side seam of the front half of the trousers 2 cm to the left - point K4. Also set aside 2 cm from the step seam to the right - point K5 is obtained. Connect point K5 and point G3 with a straight line.

Draw a straight line from point K4 through point G2 to the waist line - point T is obtained.
The waist line of the back half of the trousers. Measure the distance from K1T and from point K1 set aside K1T1 \u003d K1T so that point T1 lies on a straight line from point B6.

Connect points T and T1. Set aside 0.5 cm from the point T1 to the left: T1T2 \u003d 0.5 cm, connect the points T2 and B6 with a straight line.

Calculation of the tuck in the back half of the trousers

T2T3 is equal to 1/4 OT plus 3 cm (for the tuck of the back half), plus 0-0.5 cm for the fit.
Transfer the length of the side cut of the back half of the trousers from the front half, while the side line of the back half can rise slightly above the waist line. Draw the waist line of the back half of the trousers.

Back tuck at trousers. Segment T2T3 divided in half. Draw a tuck 13-14 cm long and 3 cm deep perpendicular to the waist line.
K5G4 - the length of the step cut of the back half of the trousers is equal to the step seam of the front half of the trousers G4K5 = C1C3 minus 0 -0.5 cm. The seam of the trousers is drawn slightly concave.

Draw a line of the middle seam of the back half of V6G4 according to the pattern.

Rice. 5. Pattern of the front and back halves of the trousers

Separately, transfer the pattern of the front and back halves of the trousers to tracing paper and proceed to modeling the style.

The pattern and tailoring of women's trousers is a complex process that requires serious attention and precision. The key to success is the precise implementation of instructions. Each action must be performed sequentially, not forgetting the small details. Below is step by step guide to successfully create women's trousers with the perfect fit at home.

To increase the speed of tailoring, you need to prepare in advance for this process. Tools you may need:

  • sewing machine with spare replaceable needles;
  • threads;
  • scissors;
  • crayon or washable felt-tip pen for cutting fabric;
  • sheets of paper (preferably graph paper) for making patterns; pencil;
  • meter wooden ruler;
  • flexible measuring tape;
  • pattern;
  • iron.

It is also necessary to prepare material for potential trousers. It is advisable to use only one type of fabric for one thing, because different types may react in their own way to washing, ironing, etc.

Before sewing, the material must be washed and dried. This is done in order to get rid of natural shedding and possible shrinkage.

IMPORTANT! In order for the fabric to be obedient, it should be “compacted”. To do this, generously rub the fabric with a simple solid soap and squeeze out the remaining liquid a little without rinsing. Next - dry and start cutting. After finishing work, wash again with a double rinse. If you follow these rules, the resulting thing will not shrink much and will have a perfect seam.

The process of creating any new thing is divided into several stages:

  1. Development and construction of patterns.
  2. Carrying out cutting of material and connection of component parts.
  3. Fits.
  4. Final tailoring.

Let's get started!

How to sew women's pants with the perfect fit

For a perfect fit of sewn trousers, it is necessary to take measurements accurately and according to all the rules, and also clearly follow the instructions for building a pattern.

It is necessary to take into account the features of the human figure, because for obese women fit a special style of things. A very important role is played by the quality of raw materials for the manufacture of new clothes, because the properties of the thing depend on the type of fabric. The greater the advantages of the material, the more functional and high-quality clothes will be.

Building a pattern takes up most of the whole process. The success of the final result depends on it. The pattern drawing is applied to plain paper. First, the basics of the pattern are drawn, and then the classic style of women's trousers.

ON A NOTE! The pattern pattern is conveniently applied to a cellophane sheet, which can be purchased at a hardware store. It is very convenient and practical, because the service life of this material is high!

We take measurements for the cut of women's trousers

It is advisable to take the correct measurements in underwear using a centimeter flexible tape. This will eliminate measurement errors as much as possible, which is necessary for a better result. Hold the tape with the numbers facing out.

During this process, you need to stand straight, trying not to hunch your back.

ON A NOTE! Before performing measuring work, for greater accuracy, a small rope can be tied to the waist. With this technique, the measurement lines will be clearly visible.

How to take measurements correctly

When taking measurements, wrap around the desired circle should not be tight, while not wide. A snug fit of the tape to the body with the possibility of its sliding is required.

For tailoring women's trousers, you need to measure the following quantities:

  • Semicircle of the waist and hips. The waist is measured at the narrowest point (it is located above the navel). Hips - on the widest in the buttocks. The result obtained by both measures is divided by two.

ON A NOTE! To accept all the features of the figure, you can define a segment in the "breeches" area. This is the maximum length of the bulge on the hips. If it is larger than that calculated on the buttocks, this result should be taken to calculate the pattern.

  • Knee length. This is the distance from the waist to the knee of the model. The measurement is taken from the front.
  • Side length. The distance from the waist to the bottom end of the leg. Measured from the side, the measuring tape fits snugly around the waist and hip.
  • bottom width. The desired width of the trousers is taken into account based on the style of the product.
  • Half knee. Measured parallel to the floor; measure is divided in half.
  • Hip girth. This is the largest upper part of the leg, which is located below the groin.
  • Leg circumference. The maximum width of the calf muscle, which is below the knee, is measured horizontally.
  • Ankle circumference. Horizontal dimension.
  • Seat height. This measurement is taken while sitting. The distance from the waist to the seat surface is taken into account. A vertical measurement that is taken perpendicular to the floor.

The main designations of measurements on the pattern

A pattern drawing is a diagram, following which you can make any pattern from a piece of ordinary fabric. fashion item. In this figure, the main designations of measurements and their sizes are clearly and concisely applied.

For tailoring trousers, the following abbreviations are used:

  1. St - Semicircumference of the waist.
  2. Sat - Semicircumference of the hips.
  3. Dbk - The length of the trousers to the knee.
  4. dB - Side length.
  5. Shn - The lower width of the trousers.
  6. SK - Half circumference of the knee.
  7. Sun - Seat height.
  8. Fri - An increase in the waist (for free relief).
  9. Pb - The increase in the hips of Fri and Pb depends on the individual characteristics of the human body and on the style of the trousers. On the average figure is allowed: Pb = 1 cm; Pb=0.

How to build the basis of a women's trousers pattern step by step

The basis of the women's trouser pattern is two correctly drawn figures. For their accurate calculation, all measurements taken transferred to a sheet of paper. Stages of building a drawing:

  • We measure the length on paper based on the scale of the picture.
  • We make designations in width for greater convenience.
  • We indicate additional designations that are needed for the correct creation of trousers.

For example, we use the calculations indicated in centimeters:

Hips=108

Waist=82

Development of the front half of the base for women's trousers

Calculate the width of the front half of the trousers using the formula:

Shppb=1/4*Hip circumference-1 centimeter=1/4*108-1=26

Width of the back half of the trousers:

Shzpb \u003d 1/4 * Hip circumference + Pb + Fri \u003d 27

¼ Shzpb \u003d 6.75

  1. For the correct construction of the pattern, it is required to draw two perpendicular lines, where O is the point of their intersection. From it you need to postpone the segment OA \u003d Shppb \u003d 26.
  2. From the same point we draw a vertical segment OB=Vs=27.6; perpendicular Shppb. In the same place, we measure OK \u003d Dbk \u003d 59 and OH1 \u003d Db \u003d 103.
  3. From point B upwards we measure BB1=1/10*Sb+3=8.4
  4. We draw horizontal perpendicular lines from points B, B1, K, H1.
  5. From point A, lower the line down to the line coming out of B. We got the intersection points B2, C.
  6. Segment B2B3 \u003d 1/10 * Sat + 1 \u003d 6.4
  7. B1B3 must be divided into two equal parts, from which the point B4 is obtained.
  8. The dividing line of the pants arrow is drawn through this point. A2, B1 are formed.
  9. From point B1 in both directions along the line, you need to measure the segments: H1H3 \u003d H1H2 \u003d 1 / 4Shn-1 \u003d 5.
  10. Draw segments B1H2, B3H3. From this, points B0, C1, K2, K3 are obtained.
  11. Measure 0.5 from B2.
  12. Measure point С1=С2 up vertically in a straight line. Draw line segment C1C2.
  13. A1A3 is approximately equal to 1. Draw a rounded line from A1 to C1C2. Connect A3 and C1 using the pattern.

The front base is ready.

Development of the back half of the base of women's trousers

After drawing the front of the trousers, the back is drawn.

  • From B4 you need to measure 1 cm. The result is a segment B4B5 = 1 (this is necessary to remove the arrow of the back half of the trousers). Draw B5K1 with a thin line.
  • From B5, draw B6 to the right, where B5B6 \u003d 1/4 * Wzpb \u003d 6.75.
  • From B0 set aside 4 cm up the picture.

ON A NOTE! On trousers for figures with lush buttocks, this coefficient will be 3; with a body structure with flat buttocks - 5.

  • Cross G and B6. From B6 draw a perpendicular to GV6 up and down.
  • Make a segment G1G2 \u003d Wzpb \u003d 27.
  • Draw the segment G1G2 parallel to V6G so that G2 is on segments H.

ON A NOTE! When developing and drawing patterns, it is convenient to use a measuring triangle.

  • Create point Г3, where В5Г2 = В5Г3.
  • Draw a point K4 and K5, setting aside 2 cm from the line of the side and step seams. Form a segment K5G3.
  • Draw a line from K4 through G2 to the waist - point T has come out.
  • Draw T1, where K1T1 = K1T, while T1 must lie on the straight line of point B6.
  • Connect segment TT1. Measure 0.5 from T1 and get the segment T2B6.

This part is also done. It remains only to transfer them to the fabric and cut them out.

Pattern of classic women's trousers

To build a pattern of classic women's trousers, you need to calculate the darts of the back and front halves and correctly draw up the lines of the middle seam for further work with the material.

Front half tuck.

  1. Measure A3A4 \u003d 1/4 * Waist circumference + 2 (for tuck) + 0.5 (for fit) \u003d 23.
  2. Raise A4 by 0.5 and connect the resulting curved segment with a pattern.
  3. Divide the length between A2 and 0.5 equally, draw a perpendicular to the line of points B.
  4. Make a tuck line, 10 deep and 0.5 wide.

Back half tuck.

  1. T2T3 \u003d 1/4 * Waist girth + 3 (tuck in the back half) + 0.5 (for a good fit) \u003d 24.
  2. dB = 103, as on the front.
  3. T2T3 is divided equally. The tuck will be 13 cm long and 2 - 3 cm wide. It is drawn perpendicular to the waist.
  4. K5G4 \u003d C1C3-0.5
  5. Using the pattern, connect V6G4. This will be the middle seam line.

How to sew women's trousers with your own hands: step by step instructions for beginners

For tailoring trousers with minimal material costs, you need:

  1. According to the calculated patterns, cut the fabric.
  2. Sharpen all details of the drawing.
  3. Carry out the adjustment of the material.
  4. Carry out the final assembly of components.

Let's take a closer look at all of the above steps.

Making fabric cuts

For convenience, the formed patterns must be cut with scissors from sheets of paper, using chalk or a washable felt-tip pen. On the fabric, all the details are distributed starting from the largest, ending with the smallest.

We grind the details

After the distribution of the components, you need to mark all the side control points of the picture for proper conduct drawing lines. The width of the lines should be one or two millimeters.

It is necessary to take into account seam allowances, which depend on the quality of the material.

IMPORTANT! If the threads fall out abundantly from the cut edge, then there is more retreat (about 3-4 cm).

After rechecking each size separately, you need to cut out all the components.

We carry out the adjustment

In order to ensure that the trousers are the correct size, the front and back pieces are secured with sewing pins and compared to the model's proportions. At this stage, errors are corrected, if any error was made, the convenience of landing is taken into account.

Only after making sure that the measurements are correct, the parts are assembled and the product is sewn.

Final assembly of parts

Instructions for the correct tailoring of trousers:

  1. Sew darts.
  2. If there are pockets, they need to be stitched (connected on one side).
  3. Sew and overcast side seams.
  4. Sew the inner cuts.
  5. Sew the seam of the seat.
  6. Overcast the existing fastener.
  7. Stitch the belt and ribbon.
  8. Tuck the trouser leg allowances and process.
  9. If there are buttons, sew on.

Now you can wear custom made trousers.

To keep things running smoothly, consider the following tips:

  • for tailoring classic women's trousers, you need to choose a dense, high-quality fabric that can tolerate systematic ironing (for example, cashmere or cloth);
  • always use decating before work (washing and drying the material);
  • when connecting the component parts, it is advisable to use an iron to smooth the seams;
  • after completion of work with sewing machine, you need to iron the trousers again, not forgetting the front arrow.

If you follow all the instructions completely, you will get great classic women's trousers with a perfect fit! Good luck with your work!



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