Cold porcelain orchid bud. Master class: cold porcelain orchids

Orchid. Cold porcelain

In this master class you will learn how to make an orchid from cold porcelain. There are quite a few types of orchids and, accordingly, there are also many ways to sculpt them. Our version is typical White orchid- phalaenopsis, which consists of: upper sepal, lateral petals, column (center of the flower), lips (lower petal, we have it red), lateral sepals (at the bottom of the flower). In one of our past we showed how to make .

Cold porcelain orchid. Materials and tools

For work you need:

• sharp scissors;
• rolling pin;
• toothpicks;
• tassel;
• wire;

And, of course, you need porcelain, gouache and PVA glue. In this master class, we use the classic .

Cold porcelain. Master Class. Orchid

Let's start by coloring cold porcelain in green, yellow and red. The ratio of material and paint is shown below. We knead to a uniform mass. If you are satisfied with the resulting color, then we get to work. If not, add a little more paint and again knead it into cold porcelain. We achieve desired color increasingly.

These are the colors you get:

To prevent cold porcelain from sticking, we treat all tools, hands and the work surface with cream.
Now we roll out the layer white color. We draw side petals on it and cut them out with scissors. We thread the pieces of wire into the petals, as in the photo.

Gently give the edges the desired shape and make them thinner (roll them out).

Now there is a huge variety of forms and prints for the manufacture of certain colors. If you have them - great, use them. I draw and cut out all the parts.
Next, we make the upper and side sepals. Just like petals: draw, cut, adjust. The top one is slightly larger than the rest.

The next step is to make a lip (lower petal). It takes a little diligence and patience. On a layer of red porcelain, we draw just such a "butterfly" and cut it out.

We bend it and leave to dry. So that the petal does not unbend, I built just such a design (treat the paper with cream).

We make the column as in the photo, first dip the tip of the wire into the glue.

For the lip, you will still need such a grain, which we will then glue with the help of PVA.

Orchid leaves are quite large and veined. We cut them out of a layer of cold green porcelain, pierce them with wire and leave to dry.

When all the elements have dried up (it takes about a day), you can form a flower. We will need a base wire (thicker than the one we used for the petals). We attach the petals to it (we wind the tip of the wire on the petal onto the base) - we start from the sepals and end with a column.

We make buds - two large white and one green - a little smaller.

We fasten the leaves and cover the stem with green porcelain.

Here it is finished sculpting orchids from cold porcelain. The most interesting thing left is to color the flower so that it looks more natural. We mix yellow and green gouache. The color should be light green.

We color the middle of the flower and the buds (leave the top of the bud white). Remember that the transitions from one color to another should not be clear. We put black dots on the lower petal.

A cold porcelain orchid can be "planted" in flower pot, put on the windowsill and delight passers-by)).

Orchid Phalaenopsis from cold porcelain

And what cold porcelain orchid did you get?)))

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Finally, my old dream came true - to master phalaenopsis! And although there is still something to work on, but I hope that I have become much closer to the goal) While I stuck the flowers, I will arrange them in a branch later, when the weiner of the phalaenopsis leaf arrives. And as always, I share with you my humble experience in creating this flower)

for work I used: the main stack, nail scissors, a small spatula from a manicure set, super gel glue, a tinting brush. Also needed: templates or cutters of petals and phalaenopsis butterflies, pestle mold (you can do it manually, but I don’t do it very well), drying for a butterfly, white wire 24-26 sizes, petal veiners, teip tape. For tinting, I used: pastel light yellow, dark yellow, marsh. From oil - dark red and brown. And also for a slight shine of the petals, I used shadows of fine dispersion luminous white. You can use a special glitter, but I did not find one with us.

the pestle is ready from mold. While it is not completely dry, we take a white wire 12-13 cm long. We bend its part by 3 cm and paste it into the pestle in this way, leaving a tail for the future column. Let the pestle dry completely.

For anther, we take a small piece of porcelain the size of a small pea and form a pyramid with our fingers, with an extension upwards. With a spatula, make a recess in the center of the pyramid.

It turns out like this. Then, with nail scissors, we cut off the pyramids on the sides, making them even. We get such a check mark.

then with our fingers we form such small horns on the anther

we take our dried pestle on a wire. we form a thin sausage from porcelain and insert it onto the wire, having previously smeared the base of the pestle with glue. We smooth the junction with water, connecting the pestle and column into one. Then we flatten our column and tear off excess porcelain. Make sure that the column is not thick, but graceful. And at the very end of the column, make the platform as thin as possible, then the anther will be glued to it. Let her dry well.

when the column dries, we bend it in this way. It is better to look at a living flower and bend over it, at least for a start, then the skill will be worked out and you will be able to do it from memory. Glue our anther on the bottom platform of the column.

I’ll tell you a little about the antennae) I tried to pull them out of the butterfly, but for some reason they always came off) so I decided to make them separately. scrolled between her fingers, connecting the joint into one. it's not difficult, it seemed to me so much easier and more realistic antennae are obtained)

let them dry a little and twist them like an orchid. Then we put the butterfly in the dryer.

when our butterfly and column are dry, we proceed to tinting. We mix three types of pastel in almost the same proportions (a little less marsh) and tint the anthers themselves and the edges of the butterfly in this way.

then add a little brown and thin wire to the dark red oil one, put dots on the anther and stripes on the bottom of the column, as well as stripes on the butterfly.

this is the place of drawing stripes on a butterfly. then with a thin brush with the same color we tint the edges of the butterfly, as in the photo. we connect our column with a butterfly. I glued the gel on the super glue, it does not grab so quickly and there is time to correct and set the column on the butterfly correctly.

I cut out the petals according to paper templates taken from living petals (my hands do not reach to make cutters). I cut it out, thinned the edge and textured it on the weiner.

I planted each petal on a wire, for this I made a little thicker at the base of the petals. And on large petals I masked it in a characteristic fold.

when our petals are completely dry, we collect a flower. Before that, we wrap our wires in this way and first connect the middle petals with a butterfly, then the top petal, then the bottom ones. I connected the teip with tape. Then, when we have achieved the correct shape of the flower, we can drop super glue behind the pestle onto the joints of our wires, finally fixing the shape. But first, make sure everything looks nice and there are no distortions.

like this approximately) it is very important to set the petals correctly. again, it's best to do this while looking at a living flower.

Cold porcelain is a mass ideal for sculpting products and flowers. Let's try to make flowers from cold porcelain with our own hands. Our today's master class will be devoted to creating a hoop with delicate flowers, namely with pink orchids.

How to cook porcelain so that it does not crack later and is not sticky to hands? Below is the perfect brew recipe.

For work you will need:

1. Oil paint red, white, green and yellow
2. Acrylic paint red
3. Pastel dry green and red
4. floral wire
5. PVA glue
6. Orchid leaf mold small
7. Tassels
8. Dumbel
9. Scissors
10. hair hoop
11. floral clay

Completing of the work

Cut two pieces of wire about 6 cm long. From one end, bend each piece of wire in the form of a loop. Mix a small piece of floral clay with white oil paint. Form a ball with a diameter of 1 cm. Spread a loop on the wire with PVA glue and put a white ball of clay on it. With the back of the knife, make 4 vertical indentations on the ball, intersecting in the center. Make another similar blank for the bud on the second piece of wire. The second blank can be made a little smaller in diameter.

Scrape pastel chalk with a knife Green colour. Dip a dry soft brush into the resulting powder and paint the base of the buds with green pastel while they are still wet.

In the same way, paint the tops of the buds with a red pastel.

Mix a small piece of clay with green oil paint. Put a piece of green clay on a wire with a bud smeared with glue, and carefully in a circular motion stretch the clay all over the wire. The lower end of the wire (about 1 cm), leave without clay. Roll the wire between your fingers to smooth out any bumps. Do the same with the second button.

Now take a ball of clay with a diameter of about 2.5 cm. Mix it with a small amount of white oil paint and a small drop of red paint. You need quite a bit of red paint to get a soft pink color. Tear off a small piece from the pink clay and shape it into an oblong petal 1.5 cm high. Give it a light texture with a small orchid mold.

Place the petal in the palm of your hand and lightly press it in the middle in a circular motion with a small dowel to make the petal slightly concave inward. Make three of these petals.

Lay them as shown in the photo, glue them in the center with glue.

Now make the top two petals. They should have a rounded shape and be slightly larger than the lower petals. Spread the lower petals in the center with glue and attach the upper petals, press the gluing place with a dowel. There are three such preparations for orchids. They can be the same size, or you can make one of the blanks a little larger than the rest.

Take a piece of clay and mix it with a small amount of red oil paint to make a rose red color. Roll out a piece of clay into a thin layer and cut out a core for an orchid of the same shape as in the photo with nail scissors.

Place the core on the palm of your hand and work it in the center with a dowel, bend the sharp tips from the bottom up.

Glue the core to the center of the orchid. Make the same cores for the rest of the orchids.

Take the buds, put them next to each other and twist the ends of their stems together. The length of the twisted part should be 1 cm. Mix a small piece of clay with green paint. Attach the buds with the twisted side of the wire to the desired place on the hoop, this place should be coated with glue on top and bottom of the hoop. Now put green clay on top of the wire and stick it around the hoop so that the clay comes to its underside. The buds should turn out as if tied with clay to the hoop.

Wait until the orchids have dried out a little and they can be easily taken with your hands. Now glue the hoop to the right of the buds with glue, stick a small amount of pink clay around this place, spread glue on top of the wedge and glue the orchid on it.

Bottom view:

View from above:

Attach the remaining two orchids in the same way - to the left of the first flower. Next, mix a small piece of clay with yellow paint, form oval “seeds” 4 mm high from it. Spread glue in the center of the orchid core and place one oval piece of yellow clay vertically into each core. On each yellow piece, make a vertical indentation with a knife.

Cold porcelain orchid

master class from Olga Molchanova

Today I want to show how orchids were made on this plate. I can’t say anything about the “pedigree” of the flower, most likely it is Cattleya ... Process and technology are important to us. Let's start:

We separate five pieces from a piece of porcelain - these are future petals, flatten them and sharpen them on both sides.

We put the pieces in a file and roll them out. Next, add an invoice. If there is no mold, then you can take an elastic wire, slightly bend it and walk it, as if rolling, giving relief to the petal.

As a result, we get five wonderful petals.

Set them aside for now to dry. Three petals will be almost even, and two need to be slightly bent along.

Let's proceed to the "lip" of the orchid. We make a drop a little more than for the petals. We accept it.

We put it in a file and roll it out and give an invoice.

We pass with a stack or a knitting needle along the edge, slightly twisting and creating a waviness.

The end result should be something like this.

We do the middle. On a small drop with a knitting needle, we draw a longitudinal groove.

Lubricate it from below with PVA glue and apply it to the "lip".

We wrap the edges of the "lip" in a funnel.

Let's expand a bit. And we start assembling the flower.

Apply glue to the edge of two petals.

We turn the “lip” towards ourselves with the rear and apply the petals to the base of the flower.

While the glue is not dry, align the petals.

Apply glue to the third petal.

Glue it on top.

Repeat the process with the remaining petals.

We put them in place, placing them just above the two lower petals.

Approximately it will look like a raw flower.

We give the flower a shape in which it should dry, shifting the petals with napkins. And set aside to dry.

Let's move on to the leaves. Roll out a short cake. Short because there is no long mold. You can repeat the texture with a curved wire.

We got a simple drawing on a leaf.

We take a leaf on our fingers, thumbs lightly grab the top and bottom of the leaf and gently pull the leaf in length. The leaf is ready. We give it the desired shape and set aside to dry. Based on the plan, we make the required number of flowers different sizes and sheets. If an independent flower is meant, then a wire smeared with glue and bent into a ring is stuck into the base of the flower, but if we intend to stick the flower on the surface, such preparations are not needed.

This is what it looked like before painting:

GOOD LUCK AND CREATIVE SUCCESS!!!