Turndown collar. Flat lay collars

Collars are very diverse in shape. They consist, as a rule, of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - rack. At the same time, the rack can be both detachable and one-piece with a departure. The rack and departure are separated by an inflection line.

The collar is connected to the product by a stitching line. Its length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. The stitching line can be straight, concave or convex, therefore, depending on its curvature, the collar fits more or less to the neck.

If the stitching line has a concave shape, then the collar only fits slightly to the neck, a straight or straight line increases the fit of the collar, and a convex line provides maximum fit.

To build a collar drawing, it is necessary to know not only the length of the stitching line, but also the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. We choose it according to the model, depending on the degree of fit of the collar to the collar. her.

For collars with a high stand, take smaller values, for flat collars, with a low stand, take large values.

The neck line in products is made either along the line of the base of the neck, or expands, deepens, depending on the model features. The expansion of the neckline in the area of ​​the shoulder seams, its deepening at the back and front ensures that the projected collar lags behind the neck.

Pattern of a turn-down collar adjacent to the neck.

2. From the point O, horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back (measured on the product from the middle of the back to the middle of the front) minus 0.5-1 cm (this is a coefficient, the value of which depends on the curvature of the collar stitching line; a smaller value is selected when straight stitching line, more - with a curved one).

3. Up vertically from point O, lay off the amount of rise in the middle of the collar (from the table): RH = 2-4 cm.

4. Connect straight points B and A, divide the segment into three parts. The division points represent O1 and O2.

From O1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is laid aside.

5. A smooth line draws the line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O2, 0.2, A.

6. Collar width on the back: ВВ1 = 8-10 cm (according to the model).

The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upwards from A to the segment BA: AA1 \u003d BB1 \u003d 8-10 cm.

7. Connect the straight line B1 and A1 and extend it to the right by 3-6 cm (the value of the protrusion of the corner).

A1 A2 = 3-6 cm.

8. From the middle of the segment B1 and A1, restore upward a perpendicular of 1-1.5 cm.

9. With a smooth curve coming out of point B1 at a right angle to the segment OB1, draw a detachable cut of the collar through points B1, 1-1.5, A2.

10. Connect straight line A to A2

Turn-down collar pattern with a detachable stand.

Such a collar, thanks to the cutting stand, ensures a good fit of the product on the figure. First, a collar with a one-piece stand is drawn, then the stand is cut off from the collar. The collar and collar stand change - the length along the line of their connection decreases. As a result, the collar is more close to the neck and looks better than a turn-down collar with a one-piece stand.

1. In the drawing of the basic base of the product, expand the neck along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 1.5 cm, in the middle of the back - by 0.5 cm.

Draw a new neck at a right angle to the middle of the back.

Mark on the new front neck the point of the ledge of the bead at a distance of 1 cm from the middle of the front towards the armhole.

Measure the length of the new front and back neckline from the middle of the back to the shoulder drop point.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which to put to the left of the starting point O the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm.

3. From the point O put up:

• collar stand height - 3.5 cm,
• the height of the collar cut-off stand is 4 cm,
• position of the inflection line of the collar stand - 0.5 cm,
• collar width - 5.5 cm.

4. From point A, set aside 0.7 cm up and from the resulting point set aside 3.5 cm to the left.

AB = 0.7 cm

BA1 = 3.5 cm.

5. Through A1, draw up a vertical line on which to detect an arc from B with a radius equal to 10 cm.

BB1 = 10 cm.

6. Draw the sections of the collar and stand in accordance with fig. The cut line of the rack starts at a distance of 3 cm from point B.

7. Draw cut lines on the collar and stand.

8. Cut the collar along the line of the seam connecting the collar and collar stand. Make cuts from the cut of the collar stitching to the cut of the collar flying off.

9. Lay the sections of the collar and the stand along the lines of the cuts on each other by 0.3 cm at the cuts of the seam of the connection. In the midline, also narrow the collar and stand.

Pattern of a shirt-type collar with a one-piece stand.

1. Build a right angle with a vertex at point O.

2. From the point O horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back minus 0.5 cm.

OA = neck length - 0.5 cm.

3. From A to the right, lay off the size of the ledge of the collar, which is equal to the width of the half-skid (allowance for the fastener on the product).

AA1 = 1.5-2-2.5cm

4. The amount of rise in the middle of the collar: RH = 2-4 cm.

5. Points B and A are connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is divided into three parts. The division points represent O1 and O2.

From the point O1, the perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

From the middle of the segment between points O2 and A, a perpendicular is drawn down, on which 0.2 cm is laid.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A1 by 0.3-0.5 cm.

6. Draw a line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O2, 0.2, A, 0.3-0.5.

7. The size of the collar stand: BB1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

8. Through A to the straight line OA, restore the perpendicular upwards, on which a segment equal to the height of the rack is laid: AA2 = BB1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

9. Draw the protrusion of the rack with a rounded curve.

10. Collar width in the middle: BB2 = 7-9 cm.

11. Draw a horizontal line from B2 to the right. Its intersection with the vertical drawn from A is denoted by A3.

Line B2A3 continues to the right 1-4 cm and put B3.

A3B3 = 1-4 cm.

12. Connect straight line A2 to B3 and extend it up. On it from A2 set aside 7-15 cm (the length of the corner).

A2B4 = 7-15 cm.

13. The segment B2A3 is divided into three parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve to B4.

Pattern of a shirt-type collar with a detachable stand.

1. Draw a horizontal line along which to put to the right from the starting point O the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm.

AA1 = neck length - 0.5 cm.

2. From A1, a perpendicular is restored upward, on which 2-4 cm are laid.

A1A2 = 2-4 cm.

3. Directly connect A to A2, extend it to the right by 2-2.5 cm (half-skid allowance).

A2A3 = 2-2.5 cm.

4. Segment AA2 is divided in half and a perpendicular of 1 cm is restored downward.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A3 by 0.5 cm.

Make a smooth curve line for stitching the rack through points A, 1, A2, 0.5.

5. Collar stand height: AA4 = 3-4 cm.

6. From A2 and A3, perpendiculars to the segment AA3 are restored upward, on which they lay 2.5-3 cm each.

A2A5 \u003d A3A6 \u003d 2.5-3 cm.

7. Connect points A4 and A5 with an auxiliary straight line and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm downwards from the middle of the segment.

8. Points A4, 1, A5 are connected by a smooth curve, and the protrusion of the rack is drawn with a rounded line.

9. The line for stitching the collar into the rack is drawn up with the same bend as the top cut of the rack.

From A5 draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry.

From B upwards lay a segment equal to A4B.

BB1 = A4B.

Connect point B1 with a straight line to A5, divide the segment in half and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm.

Connect B1, 1, A5 with a smooth curve.

10. Collar departure width: B1B2 = 4-5 cm.

11. Draw a horizontal line from B2 to the right, its intersection with the vertical line drawn from A5, denote B3.

12. Set aside 1-5 cm from B3 in a straight line.

B3B4 = 1-5 cm.

13. Connect straight line A5 to B4, extend it up and on it from A5 set aside 9-14 cm.

A5B5 = 9-14 cm.

14. The segment B2B5 is divided into three parts and the right division point of the smooth curve is connected to B5.

Pattern of a shirt-type collar with a high cutting stand.

The high stand of this collar strict form it is fastened end-to-end at the middle line of the front with hinged loops and buttons.

1. Make the necessary changes to the neck on the drawing of the basic base of the product as shown in example 2.

Measure the length of the new neckline front and back from the middle of the back to the middle of the front.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which to put to the left of the starting point O the value of the length of the modified neck of the product.

3. From O, set aside 4.5 cm - the height of the collar stand, then set aside 4.5 cm - the height of the collar rise and 5.5 cm - the width of the collar.

4. From A, set aside 2.5 cm upwards and from the obtained point B draw a cut line for stitching in the collar stand.

5. At a right angle to the segment OB, draw the middle front line of the collar 4.5 cm long (the height of the stand at this level).

BB1 = 4.5 cm.

6. Make cuts of the collar stand, as shown in the figure.

7. From B1, set aside 0.3 cm to the right along the upper cut of the rack. From this point draw a horizontal line to the left 1.5 cm long, from the last point draw a vertical upwards.

8. Make cuts of the collar in accordance with the picture.

Quelle der Zitate: http://pokroyka.ru/

Another way to make a drawing of turn-down collars.

First, we determine the model of the dress or blouse, adjust the neckline, i.e. if necessary, we deepen, expand or change the shape.

For this method, it is necessary to measure the length of the neck according to the patterns of the front and back. This is conveniently done with a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on edge. In our example, the length of the neck is 20 cm.

We put the front and back patterns aside and proceed to the construction of the collar itself.

We start by building a right angle. We mark the top with point O. From point O upwards vertically, set aside 1.5 - 12 cm and set point B. Please note that the difference is significant between the lower and upper limits of this value. And this means that appearance collars will be significantly different.

In the manufacture of patterns for flat-lying collars with a low stand, a large value of the segment OB is taken.

For collars with a high stand, smaller values ​​are taken.

The greater the distance OB, the flatter the collar will lie.

We will build two drawings as an example. One - with a maximum distance of OB (12 cm), the other - with a minimum (1.5 cm).

The height of the stand varies from 1.5 to 3.5 cm.

Let's start with flat-lying collar.

In this embodiment, the distance OB will be equal to 12cm.

Let's define the distance VA. It is equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured according to the patterns of the front and back, minus the coefficient K, where K = 0.05 x OB.

In our example, K = 0.05 x 12cm = 0.6cm.

Now we calculate the distance VA:

20cm - 0.6 = 19.04 cm

From point B, using a compass with a radius of 19.04 cm, we make a mark and put point A.

Connect points B and A.

We divide the distance BA in half. We denote the division point with the letter C. From point C along the perpendicular upwards, set aside 1-3 cm and set point C1. The greater the distance OB, the correspondingly greater the distance CC1. In our specific case this segment is 3cm.

We draw the stitching line with a smooth curve connecting points B, C1 and A. Remembering that the stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle.

The height of the rack in this embodiment will be approximately 1.5 - 2 cm. From point B, set aside this value upwards and set point B1.

The width of the collar can vary significantly depending on the model (6 - 14 cm). And even this is not the limit. In fact, you yourself determine the width of the collar, the shape of the swing and the shape of the front ends of the collar.

In our example, we are building a collar 8 cm wide. From point B, we measure this distance upwards and set point B2.

We turn to the construction of the ends of the collar. For our particular case, the distance AA1 is 5.5 cm. When the distance OB changes, the segment AA1 will also change.

From point A upwards at a right angle to the line OA, we draw a straight line, on which we set aside 5.5 cm and set point A1. From point A1 to the right at a right angle to line AA1 we draw a straight line, on which we set aside 8 cm and set point A2. This distance is also variable.

It all depends on what configuration the ends of the collar should be. In our particular case, this distance is 8 cm. We connect points A and A2 with a straight line. We draw the departure line with a smooth line, connecting points B2 and A2.

Construction completed.

IMPORTANT. Segments AA1 and A1A2 are non-constant values. For small values ​​of the segment OB, the distance AA1 is usually calculated according to the formula AA1 = BB2 + 1cm. In our example, this formula does not work. In each case, especially if you deviate from the classic, standard forms, do not get attached to the above-mentioned segments. Moreover, you can draw a departure line without auxiliary lines. The main thing to remember is - the stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle. Everything else is controlled by you.

If you have not come across the topic of designing collars before, do everything according to the instructions for the first time in order to learn the principle of construction, so to speak, test the scheme and understand how it works. And after acquiring the slightest skills, you will see that everything is very simple.

Once you've made your collar pattern, it's best to test it on an inexpensive piece of fabric to make sure it looks exactly the way you intended.

When making a collar pattern, do not forget about the difference between the upper and lower collars.

I remind you. The template of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3 mm larger than the template of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without puffs and deformations - this is the time. So that in the process of basting the stitching line does not look out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of a perekant throughout the departure - these are two. And ultimately, to ensure a good collar fit, and hence the appearance of the entire product.

Therefore, first copy one part of the collar clearly along the line from the main drawing, this will be the collar. And then, on a separate sheet of paper, increase this pattern by adding the required value along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.

Collars are very different and it is impossible to imagine many products without them. Their appearance depends on the model and cut. Collars are divided into set-in and one-piece. flat-lying turn-down collars referred to as set-in, although recently removable flat-lying collars with clasps have become very popular. Building such collars is made on the basis of the details of the back and shelves of the product.

The name itself suggests that the collar lies completely around the neck and its stitching line coincides with the neck line. The sizes and external contours of the collars can be completely different: curved, straight, figured, combined.

They are often used in children's clothing, blouses and dresses. Small-sized, flat-lying collars look cute and neat. They can be decorated,,.

If you want, then its inner cut, adjacent to the neck, does not have to repeat the neck of the product. It is drawn as needed.

CONSTRUCTION OF A FLAT-LYING COLLAR

Before you start building a collar, you must have an accurate and final pattern for the back and front of the product. If the collar model is symmetrical along the outer contour, then one part of the shelf and half of the back are used.

Aligning them along the shoulder seam, you can draw the outer contour of the collar, conceived according to the model. Please note that, in most cases, when constructing flat collars, the line of the outer contour of the collar, crossing the middle of the back, is at an angle of 90 ° with respect to it. And the middle of the collar when cutting coincides with the shared line on the fabric.

After the shape of the collar is drawn, it must be transferred to a separate sheet and duplicated in two versions, since the flat-lying collar consists of an upper and lower one.

This is done because the collar patterns will be slightly different and need to be adjusted. Since, when sewing into the neck, the upper collar will bend along the stitching line more than the lower one, it is expanded by 2–3 mm. The thicker the fabric, the greater the expansion.

The beginning of the collar does not have to coincide with the center of the front. So it can be conceived according to the model, and, perhaps, the collar will be decorated with lace or a frill along the outer edge, or it is provided in the center of the front. Everything depends on your desire.

Flat-lying collars are perhaps the simplest and most understandable in construction.

With collars on the half-stand and the stand, the situation is somewhat different. We will talk about this in future articles.

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Construction of a cutting collar pattern - stand

Stand-up collars are very popular and are used in a wide variety of clothing, from formal suits to sportswear. Building a cutting collar pattern - the stand is not ...

Even the most strict and prim costume can be enlivened by some bright detail. Embroidery, voluminous cuffs, frills are very good for transforming ordinary clothes into festive ones. But it is the collar that can add simple dress or a boring blouse of more elegance, very appropriate at the same time in a business environment. And a contrasting collar modern fashion is considered the most expressive element for creating a stylish and independent look. And most importantly - this accessory is very easy and simple to sew on your own. Which one to choose depends not so much on sewing skills, but on taste preferences and imagination.

Types of collar patterns

1. Combined. Stand-up models belong to this category. Borders garment in both cases, they can be fastened to the very top or have an open end. Stand-up collars, called "shawl", have one-piece rounded lapels. The upper part of such a product includes details of the pick-ups (fragments of lapel processing). The model is typical for classic shirts, jackets, coats, dressing gowns, dresses.
2. Stand-up collar for open-sided items. In the composition of the collar of the standing type there is no turn-down detail (departure). The style is used when modeling blouses, dresses.
3. Flat-lying turn-down collar of undercut type. The horizontal edges of the product lie freely on the plane of the shoulders or the chest area of ​​the garment. Such models have a small stand or do not have a standing part at all. Used as part of dresses, blouses, as an overhead decorative detail.

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Varieties of the turn-down model

Products differ in size and shape, which the edges of the turn-down fragments have. The methods of connecting the details of the departure with a standing base are also important.

The most common types of turn-down products

• "Cape". Wide, soft model. Covers shoulders almost completely. Attached to the neckline, made round. It is used in the design of the top of dresses, blouses.
• "Bertha". Hides the shoulders and neckline. It is made removable or openwork, put on over dresses of a number of styles.
• Model with lapels. Wide V-shaped neckline. Complemented with details of swing lapels, which are attached to the collar bottom. Participates in the design of coats and jackets.
• Shirt. Stand-up collar type with sharp edges that are attached to the front halves of the shirt with buttons.
• "Peter Pan". Circular product with rounded, diverging edges. Relevant for dresses of a simple cut.
• oblique. Collar, the ends of which diverge sharply. Comfortable to wear with a tie, men's and women's shirts.It is slightly turned up. Initially, such a starched collar was supplied Men's shirts. Later he moved to the composition of ladies' dresses.
• "Guys" (or sailor). Wide model with a triangular cutout at the front and a voluminous rectangle at the back. It is possible as part of stylized blouses, shirts, dresses.
• Jabot. A model that forms a series of large folds from the neckline to the center of the chest or to the level of the waist. Appropriate in blouses and retro-style dresses.
• Shawl. A model that tapers from the back of the head to the center of the chest, forming a triangle. Decorates jackets, coats, dresses.

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Building a model with a departure for open sides

1. Lengthen the shoulder section of the shelf, leading to the right side. On it, mark the height of the rack fragment.
2. On the edge of the board, above the top loop, step back about 1 cm and mark the beginning of the inflection for the lapel.
3. Carry out an inflection according to the marks.
4. Draw a straight line upwards parallel to the drawn line tangentially to the neck contour.
5. Mark the points of intersection of the drawn segment with the contour of the neck and the cut of the shoulder.
6. From the last mark upwards, draw a segment equal to the height of the rack part with an increase of 1 cm.
7. From the mark of contact with the neck, as well as from the extreme point of the segment constructed before this, draw an arc. Its radius is equal to the distance from the point of intersection with the neck to the extreme upper point of construction.
8. On the resulting circle, set aside a distance of 2-8 cm long. The degree of location of the collar plane will depend on this value.
9. Draw the model stitching area smoothly with a deflection of about 0.7 cm. The deflection should fall on the segment starting at the point of intersection with the arc.
10. We build a perpendicular to the line along which the model is sewn; on it, note the value of the width of the rack and departure.
11. From the extreme point of the segment equal to the width of the standing part, smoothly draw the contour of the inflection of the rack. It should go into the fold of the lapel.

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Recommendations for the construction of products with a departure and open sides

• The basic rule for creating this model is to determine the amount of rise of the collar center relative to the shoulder line on the shelf detail.
• It is important to find out exactly what the curve will be, according to which the product is connected to the neck of the base.
• The section of the bead from the junction with the collar to the edge of the lapel detail, as well as the departure, are drawn up in accordance with the style of the product.

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Construction of a classical model with rebound

1. Run the neck of the thing in accordance with the configuration of the future collar.
2. Draw a new outline of the neck, defining its parameters.
3. Draw a right angle on a sheet of paper.
4. Draw a vertical line from the top of the corner. Usually the length of such a vertical reaches 12 cm, depending on the width of the future collar. An increase in the length of the segment leads to a flattening of the turn-down part of the model. In the case of a combined product, choose a minimum distance of 1.5 cm.
5. From the second point of the drawing, set aside half the length of the neck. The length of the neck can be determined by adding the corresponding sections of the front and back.
6. From the second point of construction, draw a circle with a radius of half the girth of the neck cutout. Mark the intersection of the circle and the horizontal of the initial angle of construction.
7. Divide the resulting oblique line into three equal segments.
8. Set aside about 0.5 cm from the extreme point of the segment closest to the initial mark.
9. Divide the rightmost segment of the inclined straight line in two.
10. Measure 0.3 cm down from the obtained point.
11. Smoothly draw the model stitching line (oblique straight line) according to the set points. The attachment area of ​​the base product must coincide with the middle collar line at an angle of 90 degrees.
12. Determine the height of the rack for the model (3.5 cm). Set aside this distance upwards from the second construction point.
13. With a curved dotted line, outline the fold that will divide the stand and the collar fly.
14. From the second mark of the drawing up, measure the desired collar width.
15. In the classic model, the distance from the stand to the edge of the product is only 1 cm greater than the collar width. Add 1 cm to the last value and draw a perpendicular of the corresponding length upwards, from the extreme point on the horizontal of the construction.
16. Set aside about 5 cm to the right of the new mark. Connect the extreme point on the lower horizontal of the drawing with the obtained point.
17. Mark the departure by connecting the edge of the product with the upper mark of the initial perpendicular.

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Tips for designing classic pieces with a touch

• The upper collar part in the area of ​​the departure line should be several millimeters larger than the lower one. As the tissue density increases, this difference will increase. Such ratios of values ​​allow you to make a model with a good fit.
• Before cutting, it is better to copy one part of the structure (collar). After, on another sheet of paper, this detail should be enlarged and duplicated. To increase, you need to add the desired distance along the contour, getting the upper collar.
• The configuration of the ends of the model may vary depending on the style.

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Ways to highlight products with departure

Varieties of turn-down collars easily turn into a decorative detail. It is performed separately (removable) or is part of the product.

You can also focus on the collar:

• using different colors model details (stand and departure);
• making a color contrast between the collar and the main product;
• decorating collar details with beads, rhinestones, buttons, crystals, lace inserts.

Turn-down collar - a type of collar in which its edges lie freely on the shoulders or chest. This is one of the most common and comfortable types of this accessory for clothing, as it looks neat, does not interfere with movement, and gives blouses, jackets and dresses a complete look.

Types of turn-down collars

Exists great amount varieties of these collars. Usually they differ in how large the turn-down parts are, what kind of edges they have, how such a collar is combined with a stand. Consider the main types of turn-down collars.

Cape- a wide turn-down collar, soft enough, covering almost all shoulders. Sewn to the neckline, has a round shape, usually used on dresses or blouses.

Collar with lapels- Another type of wide collar, which usually frames the V-neck and has additional lapels sewn to the bottom of the collar. Most often, jackets or coats are sewn with such a turn-down collar.

Collar Peter Pan- a kind of detail for processing the neck, which is cut out in a circle and has rounded edges widely diverging from each other. Being quite modest in appearance, the Peter Pan collar gives the image a special naivety and youth. Most often, dresses are sewn with a similar turn-down collar.

Shark, business card or collar called oblique- a kind of turn-down collar, which can be found on men's and women's shirts. It usually has strongly diverging ends, which makes it convenient to wear with ties.

Eton collar- a turn-down collar resembling an oblique, which was previously used in men's clothing, but now it has become more often used when sewing women's dresses and blouse. Has rounded edges.

Fashion for turn-down collars

Turn-down collar jackets, dresses, shirts, blouses - all this is now at the height of fashion. The first trend that is fashionable to highlight is the use of a contrasting turn-down collar. It is usually white or black, although any other color other than the color of the fabric of the main item can be used. This collar serves as a fashionable accent and gives things a special character. Another trend is richly decorated turn-down collars. Turn-down collars embroidered with beads and sequins, crystals, decorated with studs, rhinestones and spikes are in fashion. There are even special ones that successfully replace a necklace or pendant around the neck.