Sew a beautiful women's winter jacket. How to sew a winter jacket
| Russian size | Bust | Waist | Hip girth | |
| size 40, height 168 cm | 80 | 62 | 86 |
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| size 42, height 168 cm | 84 | 65 | 92 |
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| size 50, height 168 cm | 100 | 82 | 108 |
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| size 52, height 168 cm | 104 | 85 | 112 |
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| size 54, height 168 cm | 108 | 88 | 116 |
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| size 58, height 168 cm | 116 | 97 | 124 |
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| size 60, height 168 cm | 120 | 101 | 128 |
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Patterns are given without seam allowances.
Pattern Composition:
The quilted jacket fits well with front and back reliefs. The originality of the model lies in a technically well-thought-out oblique shelf with a bar covering the zipper. Collar - high rack "on the smell", is an excellent alternative to a scarf in windy weather.
Difficulty level - above average. Practical skills and experience in sewing skills are required.
Pattern measurements sample sizes (measurements of unpublished sizes are determined as the arithmetic average between adjacent sizes):
For sewing a quilted jacket, prepare necessary materials:
. jacket or raincoat fabric;
. non-woven fabric synthetic winterizer with a density of 150 g/sq. m (thickness 1.5-2 cm);
. non-woven fabric synthetic winterizer with a density of 100 g/sq. m (thickness 1-1.5 cm);
. detachable zipper tractor - 1 pc.;
. interlining for duplication;
. fasteners or Velcro;
. lining fabric.
Clarifications: different density of synthetic winterizer is needed to distribute the density of seams and freedom of movement. On the details of the sleeves and collar, you need to quilt the fabric with a synthetic winterizer of a lower density.
To make a practical fastener, take a high-quality tractor or spiral zipper. For the lining, you can take a fabric of your choice: fleece, quilted insulated lining, viscose, polyester.
pay attention to important point! Evaluate the real possibilities of your sewing machine. Not every stationary unit will adequately cope with a fabric stitch on a dense padding polyester. Pay attention to the jacket fabrics of the finished sample, you may be able to immediately buy ready-made quilted fabric. Then for the leaflets it is necessary to choose non-quilted material to match the main one.
Stitch
Let's deal with the most important starting point right away. The stitch can be done on a single piece of fabric or on separate pieces. The main fabric is superimposed over the padding polyester so that its edges protrude a few cm around the perimeter. This is difficult, as it is necessary to draw the surface with precise lines at an equal distance.
The second way is easier. The cut parts must be laid out on a synthetic winterizer, fastened with pins and stitched perpendicular lines, periodically checking the coincidence of the stripes on adjacent cut parts. The quilted parts should be stitched around the perimeter and cut out, leaving a small gap in the padding polyester - about 0.5-1 cm.
cutting
From main fabric:
- central part backs - 1 child. with a fold;
- back side - 2 children;
- a barrel of a shelf - 2 children;
- the central part of the shelf with a beveled front cut - 1 item;
- the central part of the shelf to the line of half skid (marked as a dotted line) - 1 child;
- the cutting part of the beveled front half to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 item;
- strap - 1 child. with a fold;
- collar - 2 children. with a fold;
- sleeve - 2 children;
- leaflet with a fold - 2 children;
- burlap - 2 children;
From sintepon:
. the central part of the back - 1 child. with a fold;
. barrel back - 2 children;
. a barrel of a shelf - 2 children;
. the central part of the shelf with a beveled front cut - 1 item;
. the central part of the shelf to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 child;
. the cutting part of the beveled front half to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 item;
. strap - 1 child. with a fold (from a thin synthetic winterizer);
. collar - 2 children. with a fold (from a thin synthetic winterizer);
. sleeve - 2 children. (from a thin synthetic winterizer);
. leaflet with a fold - 2 children. (from a thin synthetic winterizer).
From lining:
The central part of the back - 1 child. with a fold (+ step back from the fold 2 cm for the oncoming fold - for a loose fit on the back);
- back side - 2 children;
- a barrel of a shelf - 2 children;
- the central part of the shelf to the half-slip line (marked as a dotted line) - 2 children;
- sleeve - 2 children;
- burlap - 2 children;
When cutting out the parts, do not forget to add allowances for the seams and mark the notches for the correct alignment of the parts. Allowances for embossed seams, neckline, armhole - 1 cm, for side seams - 1.5 cm, placket and front center section - 1 cm, lower sections of the back and front, as well as sleeves - 3 cm. Immediately mark the location of pockets in embossed seams . Duplicate the leaves.
Operating procedure
1. Stitch details. How to do this is described at the beginning of the article in the thematic section.
2. Sew the center and side pieces of the back separately from the main fabric and separately from the lining. On the lining, immediately lay the central fold and fasten. Then do the same for the sleeves. Set aside finished parts and proceed to the next operation.
3. Pockets. Stitch the side seams of the leaf, iron using steam. Take burlap from the main and lining fabric. Align the fabric burlap with the notches on the relief cut of the side of the shelf, applying the part “face to face”. Sew on 0.9 cm. Turn the seam towards the burlap, and fasten with a finishing stitch by 0.1 cm. Put the finished leaf with an open cut on the front side of the central part of the shelf, sew on 0.9 cm. Attach burlap on top, sew the seam into the seam , unfold the burlap towards the shelf, fasten, and complete the finishing line. Stitch the sections of the burlap, iron using the steam function.
4. Stitch the relief seams of the side and central part of the shelf from the main fabric. Repeat the operation with the details of the lining. Make notches, not reaching 0.1-0.2 cm to the seam. Perform an OBE.
5. Duplicate the bar with interlining. Fold in half right side inward, and topstitch the top and bottom edges. Cut the allowances to 0.2-0.3 cm. Turn the bar inside out, straighten the corners and stitch the open cut with a 0.5 cm straight stitch. Sew the finished bar in the oblique half of the shelf.
6. Sew shoulder seams separately on main fabric and lining.
7. Stitch the sleeves from the main fabric, combining the control notches and evenly distributing the hem along the armhole. Repeat the operation with the details of the lining.
8. Lightning. Sew one half of the zipper to the cut-off part of the half-skid, folding the braid over the cut face to face. Sew the second part to the other half of the shelf.
9. Sew the bar to the beveled cut of the shelf, and with it the simulated “selection”, that is, cut off to the half-skid line with a zipper on the second side. Give the finishing line on the cut-off part.
10. Sew the details of the shelf with the lining. Give a finishing stitch along the zipper.
11. Sew the top edge of the collar, iron the seam. Then sew the side seams by folding the collar face to face. Cut off the allowances. Iron the collar with steam, then sew into the neckline. Perform an OBE.
12. Turn the product inside out, slightly open the seam of one sleeve on the lining. Sew the bottom sleeves of the main fabric and lining. Make a hem, sew with blind stitches. Iron.
13. Turn the jacket inside out and join the bottom edge of the lining and jacket with machine stitching. Secure the hem with blind stitches.
14. Turn the jacket inside out through the sleeve and stitch the ripped area 0.1-0.2 cm.
15. Sew Velcro or insert buttons to fix the oblique part of the shelf. Jacket is ready!
For this pattern:
The pattern for the site "Casket" was prepared by Anna Ivina.
We see the same thing in the production of clothing: raincoats with a detachable lining, trousers, "with a slight movement of the hand, turn into elegant shorts."
We offer you a two-sided demi-season jacket, which, with some skill, is easy DIY home. The advantages are obvious: you can give free rein to your own imagination and save not only money, but also space in your wardrobe.
So double sided jacket it is remarkable in that it does not have a wrong side, both of its sides are front. When thinking of sewing such a thing, you must remember a few simple rules when choosing a fabric:
- the fabric must be non-linting;
- for both sides it is better to choose a fabric of the same composition, which will give the same shrinkage. Or choose synthetics that practically “do not sit down”;
- The canvases you have chosen should be combined with each other in color and pattern.
For demi-season jacket raincoat fabric, jacket fabrics with water-repellent impregnation, ordinary blended fabrics containing cotton and even satin are suitable. A synthetic winterizer 1-1.5 cm thick is perfect as a heater. It is irrational to use a more voluminous synthetic winterizer: it is more difficult to work with it, and your jacket is still actually two-layer.
Before cutting, the fabric must be decanted (soaked briefly in warm water or ironed through damp gauze). Decating method depends on the type of fabric.
Next, cut out the product. The choice of style is up to you. The only thing to consider is a minimum of undercuts and embossed seams. After all, all the details will have to be quilted, and the abundance of grooves can significantly complicate the task. When cutting, increase the seam allowance to 2-3 cm. This is a necessary precaution. Quilted parts may be slightly reduced in linear dimensions due to "thickening".
Having finished cutting, proceed to quilting parts. This is where your imagination can run wild too. Especially if you are the happy owner of an ultra-modern sewing machine, in the arsenal of which there are always several types of curly lines. If the capabilities of your machine are more modest, simply mark with chalk two perpendicular lines on the front side of the part, install a foot with a limiting ruler on the machine, connect the fabric and synthetic winterizer parts with pins for convenience and sew along the front side, combining each previous line with the limiting ruler (so you will get strictly parallel lines). To get a flat surface, alternate parallel and perpendicular stitches. And one more tip: in order for the product to look better, the direction and angle of the “quilting” machine lines on paired parts should be a “mirror image”. To do this, simply connect the paired parts with the right sides inward and pat with the palm of your hand so that the chalk mark appears on the second part. When all the details are quilted, check each of them again with the template, cut off the excess.
Now you can proceed to the actual . Here everything is according to the traditional scheme: grind tucks (if any), shoulder and side seams, collect and stitch sleeves and hoods. By the way, a small zippered pocket can be sewn to the bottom of the hood on one side, inside which you can hide a loop for a hanger. A loop for strength is attached to the seam connecting the hood to the back.
Pockets. In this case, it is better to choose overhead pockets and attach them to one (conditionally front) side. It is quite possible to do without a second pair of pockets, so as not to visually increase the hip area. For each pocket, you will need 2 parts from the main fabric and 1 part from some kind of cushioning material (can be non-adhesive). Padding is a must if you want the pocket to hold its shape and not hang like a shapeless string bag. Between the main parts, place the gasket part, fold the parts with the wrong sides inward, chip off with pins and quilt. You process the edges of the pockets around the perimeter with an oblique trim, after which you sew them to the shelves.
So, both parts of the jacket are ready. You can proceed to the final stage. Connect both halves with the wrong sides inward, turn the sleeves on one of the sides. Cut off the edges of the jacket around the perimeter with tailor's pins and grind at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge (this is a rough line, it is needed in order to make it more convenient to sew a slanting inlay). You process the edges of the jacket and the bottom of the sleeves with an oblique trim in one or two lines (if there is not enough experience). Next, outline, sweep and cut the loops. By the way,
It's getting colder outside, so it's time to warm up. In this article, we will consider how to sew a women's down jacket with our own hands. The task is quite difficult, but quite doable. Let's add some unique elements that will make our product exclusive.
How to sew a winter down jacket with your own hands
Let's take the oversized style as a basis, which continues to gain popularity among fashionistas. Today we will try to sew quilted down jacket with a hooded collar.
Materials and tools
The outer material for sewing a down jacket can be polyamide, polyester or nylon. All of them consist of synthetic fibers, have increased wear resistance, do not wrinkle, do not let moisture through and protect from wind. Polyamide is also good because it removes evaporation and dries quickly. A distinctive feature of nylon is its lightness, increased water and steam resistance properties.
ATTENTION! If you intend to wear a jacket in conditions of high humidity, then it is better to choose a material with water-repellent impregnation.
In classic down jackets, waterfowl down is used as a filler. because it has natural water-repellent properties. Such fluff will never stick together or fall off, since sweat and human skin fumes do not settle on it. But it will be very difficult for a beginner dressmaker to sew a jacket with such a filler, and it is not cheap, so let's dwell on the very simple version- sintepon.
Choose polyester for lining- synthetic knitted fabric that looks like wool. It is affordable, easy to care for, anti-static and virtually wrinkle-free.
From the accessories, we need magnetic buttons, which we will use as a fastener.
Standard set of tools:
- sewing machine;
- overlock;
- scissors;
- tape measure;
- graph paper;
- pencil;
- needles, pins.
Down jacket pattern
The pattern will be as simple as possible, so we make a minimum of measurements:
- down jacket length;
- back width;
- armhole height;
- the length of the sleeve
IMPORTANT! When taking measurements, it is necessary to immediately lay in them an increase in the freedom of fitting. For outerwear, it is about 8 cm.
We build a pattern drawing
- Down lay the collar width 25–30 cm + the desired length of the down jacket. Draw a horizontal line at the level of the collar. From the upper left point to the right, lay off the width, which is equal to the width of the back * 2 + the width of the smell (about 20 cm) + 6 cm.
- Mark the central axis. From it, at an equal distance, lay armholes, 5 cm wide, 25–30 cm high.
- To build a sleeve pattern, we build a rectangle. It can be made straight or tapered. We measure the width of the armhole according to the drawing of the main part. We make the head of the sleeve rounded.
Cutting materials
- We cut out the main part from the outer material and synthetic winterizer.
- Additionally, from the same fabric we cut two parts of the selection and one collar.
- We cut out the sleeves immediately from the outer fabric, lining and synthetic winterizer.
IMPORTANT! It is necessary to leave 2.5 cm for allowances on each side and 5 cm for processing the bottom.
Stages of sewing a down jacket
- Sections of details from outer and lining fabrics we process on an overlock or on a sewing machine using a zigzag stitch.
- We fold the main rectangle with the additional detail of the gate face to face, accept, and then grind down them on sewing machine. Similarly, we sew two selections on the sides.
- We proceed to cutting out the lining for the main part. We cut a rectangle of this size to fill the space on the wrong side between the bands and the collar.
- Carefully we put a synthetic winterizer inside matching corners.
- On the front side, with the help of a remnant, we outline the lines of lines along which we will quilt the fabric. So that the lines do not part, we fix them with safety pins and lay basting ties using a thin needle. On the collar and collars we sew (quilt) 3 layers of material, outer, synthetic winterizer, outer. In the place where the lining will be, we quilt 2 layers - outer material + synthetic winterizer.
ATTENTION! So that the synthetic winterizer does not slip on the fabric, it should first be sewn around the perimeter. Since the fabric turns out to be quite dense, it is more advisable to use a walking or Teflon foot of a sewing machine.
- The same way we quilt the sleeves. When applying a synthetic winterizer to the sleeves, it is necessary to step back 5 cm from the bottom edge (cuff). The insulation is not sewn to the bottom allowance, because it is designed to be folded inward and connected to the lining.
- Machine stitching the shoulder seams. So that in the future the down jacket does not slip off the shoulders, we make two parallel seams at a distance of 2 cm between each other and insert a lace into them, which will be pulled around the neck. The lace can be taken ready, but it is better to sew from the main fabric.
- Sewing the side seams of the sleeves from the outer fabric (which is already quilted with padding polyester) from the wrong side, then we grind the side seam of the sleeve lining. We fold the lining and the main sleeve face to face, sew the lower sections. Turn it inside out and insert the lining inside. Then he tucks the cuff inward, basting, ironing and laying a decorative seam along the front side at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge.
- We sew the sleeves into the "body" of the jacket. To do this, we find the centers of the okats and connect them with the shoulder seams. We stick them into the armholes with safety pins and tack them in such a way that a small fit is formed. We make a machine seam, the upper thread should pass along the part of the sleeve.
- We sew the main part of the lining. To do this, we put the main part with the synthetic winterizer up and connect it with the lining on three sides, except for the hem.
- Through the bottom edge, turn the down jacket inside out and pin, tack, and then sew on a typewriter lining to the main material. We make a line not reaching the middle of about 10 cm. On the other hand, we do the same operations. Turning out the jacket. We bend and iron the middle. With help safety pins we fix the unsewn area and sew it manually with hidden ties. The lining is sewn on.
- Sew on magnetic buttons at an even distance from each other.
- In addition to buttons, you can add a belt. We cut it immediately on the fabric. The width of the belt detail, taking into account the allowances, is 10 cm, the length is 150 cm. For additional rigidity, we glue non-woven or dublerin with the wrong side. We sew short sections from the inside. We twist, we iron. We make a hem along a long cut by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, iron. We outline and lay a decorative stitch on the front side at a distance of 1–2 mm from the edge.
If you think that sewing a jacket is something from the realm of fantasy, you are mistaken. It is enough to have basic sewing skills and a desire so that sewing a jacket is not difficult.
Since the material turned out to be more voluminous than planned, I decided to make two workshops on sewing a jacket - in one I will talk about building a pattern, cutting out the details of a jacket, sewing a lining, a back, a shelf and pockets. In another master class, we will assemble the jacket and finish the details.
I like short jackets that appearance reminiscent of a women's fitted jacket. However, if you work a little with the base pattern of an ordinary women's jacket (remove reliefs and darts, make a one-seam sleeve and slightly deepen the armhole, remove lapels, etc.), you can get an excellent jacket pattern, for example, parkas.
I don’t give a pattern for a jacket for obvious reasons - each of us has individual sizes. I built my pattern on the basis of an ordinary classic jacket (I took the pattern from the magazine a size larger, because I planned to sew it on a lining with a thin layer of padding polyester), slightly modernizing it:
That seems to be the whole description of the jacket. You can also use the pattern of your old jacket - using a centimeter tape, transfer all measurements to paper and slightly correct ready-made patterns. By the way, from the patches that remained after cutting the jacket, I sewed this one.
For sewing a jacket, I needed:
Cut out the details of the jacket
Top (from the main fabric):Master class: How to sew a jacket with your own hands, step by step
Jacket lining
We start tailoring the lining of the jacket with the processing of shelves and bands. We tack and adjust the selection on the shelves according to the markup. Usually in jackets, the selection is cut-off, but since the lining is on a thin padding polyester, and the outer fabric of the jacket is thin, I made a tuning selection. That is, we bend the departure of the pick by 1 cm to the wrong side, tuck it to the shelf and lay the finishing line.
Here's what happens in the end:
On the back, with a colored marker or a helium pen (chalk and soap are not visible on the padding polyester), we outline waist tucks. We make the depth of the tuck on the lining a little less (about 1 cm) than on the main part of the top of the back - for freedom of fitting. We notice, and then we build tucks.
On the bottom of the sleeves of the lining we sew facings from the main fabric, the width of which is about 8 cm (I forgot to do this operation, as a result I had to rip up the sleeves and sew on the facings. As a result, I have the final photo of the lining without facings :))
We grind the shoulder and side sections of the lining.
We grind the middle seam of the sleeve lining of the jacket. We sweep and carefully stitch the sleeves into the armhole.
We sew a loop and stitch to the middle of the back of the lining. The lining of the jacket is ready.
Top of the jacket
The details of the top of my jacket look like this (sleeve, back, side and central part of the shelf, selection):
We sew the side parts to the central parts of the shelves. We iron the seams, we lay finishing lines along the reliefs.
Lined patch pocket with adjusting flap
Valve
We glue the valve parts with interlining.
We fold the valve parts from the main fabric with the face inward, lay the part from the synthetic winterizer from below and grind it according to the markings. Trim seam allowances close to the seam. We turn the valve on the front side, lay the finishing line.
We connect the upper sections of the valve with a line. We iron the valve, cut the upper sections to 5 mm.
Lined pocket
We circle the pattern of the pocket on the fabric, add 1.5 cm to the top of the pocket for edging.
We connect the main part of the pocket and the lining on the padding polyester along the top line, leaving a gap of 5 cm unstitched.
We plan a "edge-turn" of 1.5 cm.
We turn over the part, stitch it according to the markup, cut off the excess fabric.
We turn the pocket inside out on the front side, straighten the corners, sew up the hole with blind stitches.
We sew a finishing line along the top of the pocket with a width of 1 - 1.5 cm.
We outline the location of the pockets on the shelves.
We adjust the pocket with a seam 1 mm wide from the edge.
We sew the valve according to the markup (the seams look at the pocket). Then we bend the part and lay the finishing line to the width of the sewing machine foot along the valve.
The pockets with flaps on the jacket are ready - you can leave it like that, or you can sew a buttonhole on a sewing machine and sew on a button. Or put the buttons in the repair shop.
Even if there are still frosts ahead, we will begin to prepare for spring.
We sew a light jacket on a synthetic winterizer. (although it can be made warmer if desired.)
We will sew something like this:
This, of course, is a down jacket, but ours will be even more beautiful.
We will not suffer with a stitch of fabric, there are a lot of fabrics already quilted on a synthetic winterizer on sale. Beautifu...
When choosing a fabric, pay attention to whether there is a thin interlining between the main upper fabric and the padding polyester. If there is, then very good. The synthetic winterizer will not climb to the surface.
It's rare, but it happens.
We need fabrics: jacket length + sleeve length + 20 cm for hem and seam allowances. If your size is from the 50th, then add another 15-20 cm to the collar.
I still did not manage to buy already quilted fabric, we will quilt ourselves.
ready-made ones were either expensive: 2,500 rubles a meter, or lining fabric was fastened onto a synthetic winterizer. It was passed off as a "jacket" at 650 rubles per meter.
Raincoat fabric for stitching needs a thin one.
The girls asked about natural fabrics. They are usually denser and quilted for insulation will "stand". Natural jacket fabrics are more suitable for men's jackets and for sewing parkas.
So my expenses are:
raincoat fabric (250 rubles per meter) - 1.5 m
synthetic winterizer (60 rubles per meter with a width of 1.5 m) - 2 m (just in case, 1.7 m is also possible)
The main fabric is obtained for 540 rubles.
You will also need lining fabric.
Take the usual synthetic, inexpensive, durable, which does not break apart in your hands. As much as raincoat fabrics.
If the fabric is an unusual color, the tone of which is difficult to match the zipper, then first find a suitable zipper, and then adjust the length of the jacket to fit it.
If the jacket is black, white, gray, etc., then it will be easier to pick up a zipper for it.
We will buy later, the right size.
When the jacket is long, it is convenient if the zipper has 2 sliders. When you sit down, you can unfasten the bottom.
The synthetic winterizer is thinner, thicker - puffier. Note that the thicker the padding polyester, the puffier your jacket will be.
There is also a holofiber and some other insulating materials. Take any insulation, except for batting. With batting, the jacket will be unbearable.
We will quilt already cut out details.
There was a question about what threads are suitable for stitching. I saw on sale jacket fabrics quilted with thick threads, such as jeans are sewn. Beautiful.
But can you quilt just as beautifully?
Thick threads usually create problems when sewing. If you make a weak tension, then the loops on the front side of the fabric appear, if you make the tension stronger, it tightens the fabric.
So most likely we will quilt with the same threads as we sew.
I can't say for sure yet. I will open my jacket, try different threads for stitching, and then I will tell you.
Some girls asked about knitted cuffs on the sleeves. Not every city has ready-made cuffs for sale, you can, of course, knit them yourself, but I planned sleeves without cuffs.
Taking measurements
Tune in, taking measurements is a very important stage.
I remind you that you need to tie a cord or elastic band at the waist to fix the location of the waist line. We have a lot of measurements just from her.
To build a pattern for our quilted jacket, we need the following measurements:
1. Chest girth (measured horizontally through the most protruding points of the chest, the protrusion of the shoulder blades is taken into account on the back)
2. Waist circumference (horizontally at the narrowest point of the figure)
3. Girth of the hips (horizontally along the widest place of the hips through the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen)
4. Neck girth (horizontally along the base of the neck)
5. Shoulder length (measured from the line of intersection of the shoulder and the line of the circumference of the neck to the end point of the shoulder)
6. Shoulder girth (measured at the fullest part of the arm)
7. Width of the front (measured along the front between the armpits)
8. Back width (measured along the back between the armpits)
9. Length of the back to the waist (measured from the point of the beginning of the shoulder to the waist line).
10. Front length to waist (measured vertically along the front from the point of intersection of the base of the neck and the shoulder line through the most protruding point of the chest to the waist)
11. Side height (measured from the waist line to the armpit)
12. Sleeve length (measured on a slightly bent arm from the end point of the shoulder to the wrist)
13. Wrist circumference
14. Shoulder height oblique (measured along the back from the spine at the waistline to the extreme point of the shoulder)
15. The length of the product from the waist (measured from the waistline to the line of the desired length of the product)
The girls asked how to take measurements from themselves.
Difficult. Some measures are impossible at all. For example, back width.
Someone will have to ask.
Show the assistant a picture of how to take the desired measurement, and check the correctness of the execution in the mirror.
If you don’t tend to change body size often (well, at least the length :))), then once measurements taken can be useful for sewing several things.
Building a pattern
I will not torment you with the theory of selection and calculation of increases for a jacket.
I propose already ready-made figures. If you have doubts, or you are used to checking everything, then measure some ready-made jacket, the degree of fitting which we arrange for you. You can take your increment values.
In any case, increases and their distribution by standards are not constant. Only you determine what degree of freedom your jacket will have. Bigger gains give more freedom to fit, smaller gains will make the jacket fit more.
1. I suggest taking an increase in the chest (to the whole chest girth) from 15 to 20 cm. No more than 20 cm. If you take 20 cm, the jacket will be very loose.
2. An increase in the Girth of the hips - 10 - 15 cm. If you take a smaller increase in the chest, then take a smaller value for the hips.
3. An increase to the waist will turn out by itself, then you will see from the construction.
4. increase to the width of the back 4-5 cm, to the width of the chest - 3-4 cm.
About the rest of the increase, I write in the construction.
immediately write the increase in the measurement plate, so as not to get confused.
I do this: opposite the name of the measurement, I write the exact measurement from the figure, and next to it is a measurement with an increase and circle it.
And it is clear that when building we use a measure from a circle, and a measure from a figure is useful for checking or for building another pattern.
shelf
1. Draw a horizontal line. This is the waistline. We sign so as not to get confused.
2. Stepping back from the right edge of the paper 5 cm, we put a point on the waist line through which we draw a perpendicular. This is the mid front line.
3. We set aside from the waist up along this line of the middle of the front the measurement of Dtp + 1 cm, the so-called increase in the package - by the thickness of the quilted fabric (length of the front waist + 1 cm). Let's call the resulting point A3.
4. Draw a perpendicular to the point A3 to the left.
5. On this perpendicular, set aside the value (Osh (Girth of the neck): 6). Let's call the resulting point A4.
6. Down from point A3, set aside the depth of the neck. It is 1 cm larger than the width. Point A5
We increase the neckline of the shelf in width and depth by 1.5 cm so that the collar does not sting :)
8. From the received point down, set aside 4 cm for the bevel of the shoulder. Let's call point 4.
9. We draw the line A4.4. Extend a little beyond point 4.
10. From the waist down along the line of the middle of the front, set aside the value (About (girth of the hips): 5).
We draw a perpendicular from the resulting point to the left. This is the hip line. We sign.
That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated by the formula (Ob: 5).
Back
1. From the middle of the front along the hip line, set aside the value (Chest girth) plus the Increase in the chest: 2) (Og + Pg): 2.
Draw a perpendicular from the obtained point. This is the middle line of the back.
2. Along the line of the middle of the back up from the waist, we set aside the measurement Dst + 2 cm, an increase due to the thickness of the quilted fabric (Length of the back to the waist + 2). We call the resulting point A.
3. Draw a perpendicular from point A to the right. Set aside the value on it (Osh (Girth of the neck): 6). Set point A1.
4. Down from point A set aside 2 cm. This is the depth of the neck.
After drawing the neck line, expand it by 1.5 cm. This is necessary for outerwear.
We increase the neckline of the back only in width by 1.5 cm. Leave the depth until trying on 2 cm.
5. From point A1 to the right, we postpone the measurement Dp plus 1 cm for a good fit and plus 1 cm for freedom (Shoulder length + 2 cm)
6. From this point down, set aside 3 cm for the bevel of the shoulder. We get point 3.
7. We draw the line A1,3. On it once again set aside the measurement Dp + 3 cm.
Build a tuck in the middle of the shoulder. The middle of the tuck is perpendicular to the line of the shoulder. Dart length 8-9 cm, tuck solution 2 cm.
8. We check whether the measurement corresponds to Vpk (Shoulder Height oblique) on the drawing. We measure from point Tc to point 3. If more, leave it like that until fitting. The main thing is not less. If less, then reduce the bevel of the shoulder (from horizontal line shoulder is not 3 cm down, but smaller. As much as you need according to your measure VPK).
9. From the waistline, we set aside the measurement Wb (Height of the side). We draw a line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let's sign the "line of the chest."
At the intersection of the line of the chest with the line of the middle of the front, we get the point Gp, at the intersection with the line of the middle of the back, we get the point Gs.
We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the chest line.
Og (Chest girth) plus the increase in the chest divided by 4. If your chest is not large, then for the jacket, I recommend making the front and back the same width. In the jacket, we need a fairly large increase in the back for freedom of movement.
For example, Og is 100 cm. Plus an increase in the chest of 16 cm.
It turns out (100+16):4=29. The width of the shelf will be 29 cm. The width of the back is also 29 cm.
We set aside the resulting values along the line of the chest. Let's call the resulting point G3.
On the waist line, we make the shelf and back 1-1.5 cm narrower than these details at chest level. This is a side cut. We will not make other darts - we have a belt tie. On quilted fabrics, stitched darts create more thickness.
We set aside the resulting values \u200b\u200bin the waist line.
10. Calculate the width of the front and back along the hips.
It is calculated in the same way as for the chest: (About (Girth of the hips) plus an increase in the hips divided by 4). We postpone the resulting values along the line of the hips.
For example: hip circumference 108 cm plus an increase of 10 cm = 118. 118 divided by 4 is 29.5.
Set aside from the point Bp 29.5 cm to the left along the line of the hips. Set aside from the point Bs 29.5 to the right along the line of the hips.
In the example, the hips are wider than the chest, so the drawing turned out to expand towards the hip line. If the hips are narrower than the chest, then there may be a narrowing of the side line to the hips.
We draw the line of the side, connecting the corresponding points on the line of the chest, waist and hips.
armhole line
11. On the line of the chest from the point Gp, set aside the value ((Chest width + Increase to chest width) divided by 2 (Wg + Pshg): 2) to the left. We put point G2. From this point, we draw a vertical up to the intersection with the line of the shoulder. This line is for our reference. We will specify the width of the shelf at this level at the fitting.
12. We draw by hand the line of the armhole of the shelf from point 4 to point G3. The main thing is to make sure that this line does not go beyond the line from point G2. So that the width of the chest is not Already measurements of the width of the chest + an increase in the freedom of fitting.
13. On the line of the chest from the point Gs, we set aside the value to the right (Width of the back + Increase to the width of the back divided by 2 ((Ws + Pshs): 2)).
14. We draw by hand the armhole line of the back from point 3 to point G3. The main thing is to make sure that this line does not go beyond the line from point G1. So that the width of the back is not Already measurements of the width of the back + an increase in the freedom of fitting.
All the pattern of the shelf and back is ready.
Necessarily! After construction, we check the drawing. We measure all widths and lengths and check with the measurements.
Take it easy, we're not in a hurry. The main thing is that we enjoy the process, praise ourselves more often and tell our loved ones how smart you are and what success you have already achieved.
Sleeve pattern
Trying on and the first exit in a ready-made thing are my favorite stages of tailoring things. The rest must be endured by necessity.
Please take your time. After building, carefully check everything. If something doesn’t fit or you don’t like it, check again if you calculated and drew everything correctly, and then write to me.
We build a sleeve.
1. Draw a vertical line. Point O is at the top.
2. From point O, lay down the measure of the Length of the sleeve (Druk) and draw a horizontal line through the resulting point. This is the bottom line of the sleeve.
3. From point O, we lay down the height of the sleeve.
eye height calculation:
We measure the length of the armhole of the shelf and back, divide the resulting figure by 3.
For a jacket, it is better to reduce this number by 2-5 cm, depending on the degree of “flattening” of the shoulder.
Look at the picture of our jacket, here the shoulder is considered “in place”, that is, not lowered.
If you decide to make a lowered shoulder, for example, by 2 cm (on the pattern you drew a shoulder 2 cm longer than your own), then reduce the height of the sleeve collar by 3 cm, etc.
We denote the resulting point O1, draw a horizontal line through it.
4. The sleeve width is equal to the Girth of the shoulder plus the increase (Op + P).
An increase in the width of the sleeve for a jacket from 10 cm. I took 10 cm for my jacket. You can’t wear a thick sweater. If you are going to wear your jacket on some bulky clothes, then measure the circumference of your arm in this clothing and add 10 cm to the resulting girth. You definitely can’t go wrong.
If the handle is full (more than 36 cm), then you can reduce the increase to 6 cm (this is the very minimum) so that the jacket looks better and does not make the figure look fat.
Set aside half in both directions from the line of the middle of the sleeve. We get points P and P1
5. Connect points P and P1 with straight lines to point O. Line R, O- the front part of the sleeve sleeve, line P1, O - the back of the sleeve sleeve. These lines are divided into 4 parts. The deflection in the middle between points P and n is 2 cm, we set point 2, between points n and O - 1.5 cm, we set point 1.5, etc.
6. We draw the curve of the sleeve ok (look at the drawing) through the points P, 2, p, 1.5, O and further O, 1.5, s, 1, P1
7. Bottom of the sleeve.
The circumference of the wrist (according to the measure) plus an increase of 10 cm is divided in half and set aside on both sides of the midline of the sleeve. We get points H and H1.
8. We connect the points P and H, P1 and H1.
9. We measure the line of the collar of the sleeve, check for compliance with the length of the armhole. The sleeve length should be 3-4 cm longer than the armhole, then the sleeve will “sit down” well.
We check the front part of the sleeve collar for compliance with the length of the armhole of the shelf, the back part of the collar of the sleeve is checked for compliance with the length of the armhole of the back. They, respectively, should be 1.5-2 cm longer than "their" parts of the armhole.
If the sleeve length is not enough, then check the height of the sleeve. If you consider it sufficient (correctly calculated, as I wrote to you above), then increase the width of the sleeve.
We sign the pattern: “Sleeve, 2 details” and apply the direction of the shared thread. It coincides with the line of the middle of the sleeve.
Building a stand-up collar
1. Construct a right angle at point O. Up from point O, set aside the height of the rack. For jackets from 5 centimeters. Point B
2. To the right, set aside the length of the collar (measure the length of the neck according to the drawing). Set point B2
3. From point B2, set aside 0-2 cm upwards, depending on the desired degree of fit of the rack. Set point B3.
If you take the number 0, then the collar will be visually slightly separated from the neck. If the number is 2, then the collar will fit more, as if inclined to the neck.
4. We draw a line for stitching the rack from point O to point B3
5. We draw a perpendicular to the stitching line from point B3. Set aside the height of the rack on it.
6. Draw the departure part of the rack
If it’s not entirely clear, then the blog has a video of building a stand-up collar for a shirt. First video.
The construction is the same, only the numbers are slightly different.
You can view it here:
Opening and stitch
The hardest part is over. Only pleasures remain
cutting
Before cutting, be sure to check the fabric for defects. It is ideal to do this even when buying or when receiving from a client. But before cutting, we examine the fabric again, suddenly something was missed or a new one appeared.
If you are worried that you may have built the pattern incorrectly, are afraid to ruin the fabric, then cut the jacket from unnecessary cheap fabric, from an old sheet, for example.
Try it on, make sure that the jacket still "fits" on you, that the sleeve sits in the armhole, etc., and only then cut your raincoat fabric.
We impose patterns on the fabric, observing the direction of the shared thread, the direction of the pattern (if any) and the pile, pin with tailor's pins.
We circle each pattern with chalk along the contour, we draw the second contour stepping back to the seam allowance.
Since the jacket is outerwear, and even with a padding polyester, and if you still quilt yourself, then allowances for seams along the shoulder, side seams, along the armhole, along the middle seam of the sleeve we make 2 cm, along the neck - 1-1.3 cm, allowance for hemming the bottom and bottom sleeves at least 5 cm.
Cut out without unfastening the pattern from the fabric.
Small details must also be applied to the fabric, check that everything fits, but do not cut it out. During fitting, sometimes you have to change the length of the collar, and even the shape. It is better to cut out small details after trying on.
Stitch
For stitching, we draw on the front side of the cut details with a sharply sharpened remnant (chalk can be poorly peeled off the fabric) lines along which we will quilt. It can be rhombuses, squares, just horizontal or vertical lines. Do not invent a very complex pattern, it will be very difficult to quilt.
We impose a part, for example a shelf, on a synthetic winterizer and cut out a synthetic winterizer along the contour of the part with a small allowance, cm 2-2.5.
We chop off the detail of the cut and the synthetic winterizer along the contour and along the stitch lines quite often so that it does not move during work.
First, we lay a line along the contour of the part, stepping back from the edge of 4-5 mm, cut off the extra padding polyester along the edges, then we quilt the entire part along the pre-drawn lines.
The stitch length is maximum.
Fitting
I think everyone has already cut their jacket. Let's move on to the example.
For sampling you need:
1. Sweep the shoulder and side seams, the middle seam of the sleeve, sweep the sleeves. "Collect" the product.
2. we do not sweep the collar, pockets, cuffs, but we prepare at least patterns
Fitting
We pierce the product as it will be in finished form.
What you need to pay attention to when trying on:
1. The overall balance of the product.
We look to see if the shelf or back is overtightening. This may be the case if the measurements of the length of the back to the waist or the shelf to the waist are incorrectly taken.
2. The position of the shoulder seams.
We look if the line of the shoulder seam goes too far to the shelf or back
3. Shoulder length.
The length of the shoulder should be proportional to the silhouette of the product (a loose silhouette corresponds to an elongated shoulder)
4. Shoulder height
We look for diagonal folds in the shoulder area, which disappear if the shoulder is raised.
5. Neckline
The fabric should not "run" around the neck.
The neckline should not be too large, but it should not be tight either.
6. Side seams.
They should be vertical unless the model says otherwise.
7. The degree of fit of the product in the area of the chest, waist and hips.
Perhaps we are talking to the client.
8. The width of the product at the level of the measurements of the width of the chest and the width of the back.
Move a little to determine the degree of freedom in this area.
9. Bottom of the product.
We check the horizontality of the bottom line, if the model does not intend otherwise.
10. Sleeve fit.
See if the sleeve "sits" well. I point out the diagonal creases on only one side of the sleeve to the incorrect fit of the sleeve.
Check if the sleeve height matches the armhole. The height of the eyelet needs to be changed if it has diagonal creases on both sides.
11. We specify the length of the product and the length of the sleeve.
12. We specify the shape and size of the collar by applying a pattern.
13. Refine the shape and size of the pocket and flaps. If it is a consignment note, we pin the pocket pattern in place, if it is welt, we simply mark it with lines.
We mark all changes, stabbing with tailor's pins, we additionally do
clarifying notes.
We make changes to the cut according to the pinned pins and according to the notes that you made during
sample time.
The second fitting is necessary if the figure or model of the jacket is complex, and after the first fitting it is not clear whether the product will fit well after making changes to the cut.
The second fitting is carried out in the same way as the first.
basics
After trying on, we make adjustments to the cut. We mark the location of the pockets.
The site has a video fitting of another jacket, see if it can be useful in some way:
I decided to simplify - we will make a pocket just with a piece of paper, without a zipper.
Such a pocket can be made on both shelves below, and as an internal one - on a lining in the chest area.
Be sure to practice making a pocket on a piece of fabric. Do 1,2,3 pockets for training until you get a good one.
The width of the pocket (leaves) in finished form is 2 cm, length - 14-15 cm for women's jackets, 16-17 cm for men. The main thing is that the hand freely enters the pocket.
We need to cut out:
a piece of paper (a rectangle from the main fabric of the fabric is 4 cm longer than the entrance to the pocket and 6-7 cm wide),
valance (rectangle from the main fabric of the same size as the leaflet), pocket burlap (from lining fabric, can be from the main one)
Glue the leaflet with glue.
1. draw the entry point to the pocket:
width, pocket length and midline (turquoise line)
2. on a piece of paper and on a valance at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, draw lines of stitching
3. from the side of the middle of the shelf, attach a leaflet to the midline face to face, from the side - a gap
3. Sew leaflet and valance
4. make a cut along the midline not reaching 1-1.5 cm to the end of the lines, at the ends - obliquely to the corners (pink line on the pocket marking)
Be careful not to cut to the last stitch 1-1.5 mm, so as not to damage the thread
5. turn the valance and leaflet on the wrong side, sweep the leaflet, folding it to the desired width - up to 2 cm
6. sew 1 piece of pocket burlap to the leaflet (into the seam of attaching the leaflet to the shelf)
7. unscrew and sweep the burlap as it will be in finished form, sharpen the pocket in the face from the side where the leaves are attached (for fastening and finishing). You can lay a line stepping back 1-2 mm, you can use the foot.
8. sew 2 piece of pocket burlap - to the free edge of the valance
9. fasten the injections (according to the width of the pocket), which we got when notching to the corners, with a line, as if to attach them to a piece of paper
10. stitch pocket burlap details
11. Sew the remaining 3 sides of the pocket
Even if you do not make welt pockets on your jacket, learning how to make this pocket will be very useful to you.
Top sewing. Lining
The jacket is sewn simply:
1. stitching the shoulder seams
2. sew the top collar into the neck of the jacket
3. attach a zipper to both shelves
4. we sew the sleeve into the armhole
5. we grind the side seam and at the same time the seam of the sleeve
Lining
The lining is cut out according to the same pattern as the top of the jacket, minus the bands and back facing (I highlighted them in pink).
From the main fabric we cut out the selection and facing of the back
From the lining - the rest
The seam allowances at the shoulder, side seams and on the lined sleeve are the same as on the top of the jacket.
On the bottom, the seam allowance is 1.5 cm, on the bottom of the sleeve - 3-4 cm
1. stitching the pick to the shelf
2. we sew the facing of the back to the part of the back
3. we stitch the shoulder seams on the lining
4. we sew the lower collar (from the main fabric) into the neck of the lining
5. we sew the sleeve into the armhole of the lining
6. we grind the side seam of the lining and at the same time the seam of the sleeve
On the lining in the chest area, you can make a pocket. You can invoice or not be too lazy and make a welt with a leaflet, such as I described in the last post.
Jacket is ready!
Stop being lazy, let's finish the jacket. I have walked mine a couple of times.
Here's what happened
And here is how the lining is sewn to the top of the jacket:
1. We fold the upper part of the jacket and the lining face to face, grind along the middle of the shelf, where the zipper is, and along the collar. We lay the finishing line (stepping back on the foot) along the zipper and along the flyaway part of the collar.
2. We turn the sleeve inside out, straighten the lining on the sleeve. If necessary, cut the lining of the sleeve, it should be the same length as the sleeve in the finished tucked form.
3. We process the bottom of the sleeve to a hem with a closed cut (tuck 1 cm, tuck another as much as you left for the hem). The lining is simply inserted into the collar.
4. We sew the upper and lower collars together along the seam allowance (the one between the collar and the neckline)
5. We attach the lining to the top in the shoulder area.
6. We process the bottom of the jacket in a hem with a closed cut (tuck it 1 cm, tuck it in as much as you left for the hem). The lining is simply inserted into the collar.
Jacket is ready!
Here is the back view without the belt
Here with a belt
My mannequin, unlike me, has a size 2-3 chest. In my opinion, this jacket fits him perfectly without any darts. So this cut seems to be suitable for both thin and curvy girls.
P.S. Girls! All questions about the cut and tailoring of this jacket you can ask the author of the article Elena Kucherova
