home » Children » All points on P (retinol). Debunking Retinol Myths and Legends with the Help of Professors of Dermatology - Joy of Soul and Body

All points on P (retinol). Debunking Retinol Myths and Legends with the Help of Professors of Dermatology - Joy of Soul and Body

Trends and seasonal trends are a concept that applies not only to fashion, but also to the beauty industry. And if talking about hyaluronic acid, snail mucin and coenzyme Q10 arise situationally, then dermatologists always note the unconditional benefits of components like vitamin E, aloe vera and shea butter. Among the latter, retinol is a form of vitamin A, which, provided the correct concentrations, makes the skin fresh, velvety and radiant, and at the same time has a noticeable rejuvenating effect on it.

Here's what you need to know about retinol before you go looking for the cream, serum, or mask of your dreams.

"Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A that is used to fight the first signs of aging in many skin care products," explains dermatologist Rachel Nazarian (Schweiger Dermatology Group). "It can stimulate cell metabolism and collagen production," adds Hollywood cosmetologist Rene Roulo - In addition, retinol can be absorbed into the skin and, in combination with certain enzymes, converted to tretinoin (the acidic form of vitamin A, also known as retinoic acid) Its action is to reduce skin exposure to UV rays, visibility age spots, mimic wrinkles, and narrow pores. The magic is that retinol revives the structure of the skin, making it smoother and even more matte.

Difference Between Retinol, Retinoids and Retin-A

"Both Retin-A and retinol should be considered as types of retinoids, a whole class medicines Nazarian says. “So both of these ingredients can help with skin cell renewal, and thus counteract the first signs of aging. However, over-the-counter retinol takes longer to work, while prescription-only Retin-A is more powerful and slightly more effective at reducing wrinkles and treating acne."

"Retin-A restores cellular balance by stimulating cell turnover in the epidermis so it's less likely to get into pores and block them," says Roulo.

Retinol Benefits

"The clear benefit is that you will see a reduction in expression lines and other wrinkles due to the increased production of collagen in the skin. Retin-A works faster, but this does not mean that this form works better. Its use is more indicated for the treatment of severe forms of acne, so in this case, a mandatory consultation with a specialist is required," notes Rachel Nazaryan.

Retinol Disadvantages

"Excessive use of retinol can cause dryness and irritation of the skin. It should be used with particular caution for people who suffer from skin conditions that increase sensitivity (such as eczema and rosacea). In addition, retinol makes the skin more susceptible to sunburn, and this is also worth considering. And, of course, they should not get carried away during pregnancy, "continues Nazaryan. At the same time, the expert notes that patients with sensitive skin can still use retinol - another thing is that it should be introduced into the beauty diet gradually. For example, use an active product with retinol once a week, and make sure that the skin is sufficiently moisturized before applying it.

"While Retin-A was originally developed to treat acne, it's worth remembering that not all types of acne are the same. For example, in the case of red and inflamed pimples (also called pustules), retinoids can worsen the condition and significantly increase the degree of irritation" , adds Roulo. The cosmetologist reminds that it is important to be patient with any of the retinoids, since the result will not be instant. "Just be patient! Some people experience discomfort on the first application, noting dryness and flaking, but with repeated application of the remedy, these reactions will not remain a trace," she says.

Retinol in summer

“If you would like to use retinoids in the summer, it is important to stock up on a product with the highest possible SPF and apply it daily,” suggests Rachel Nazarian. “However, the danger of harmful effects of UV rays on the skin is so high that I would advise avoiding the sun anyway during peak hours and don't forget to wear a hat when you're outdoors."

At what age should you use retinol?

“There are no rules about when you should start using products with retinol in the composition,” says Nazarian. “If you see the first wrinkles on your face, it makes sense that you want to get rid of them. late adolescence or after 20 years.

Retinol has acquired so many myths and legends that it has become quite difficult to separate truth from fiction.
Following today's presentation of retinol serum, I want to talk about some of the nuances associated with this active anti-aging ingredient.
I really hope that my work will be useful to someone. To find answers to burning questions about retinol, I relied on professional opinion of specialists.
I tried briefly - only the most important.

Why do we love them
Retinoids have anti-comedogenic, keratomodulatory, sebostatic and anti-inflammatory effects, but most importantly, for which we love them, they activate regeneration, stimulating the synthesis of collagen, on which skin elasticity depends.
In a word, retinoids, consistently transforming into retinoic acid in the dermis, stimulate old cells to work like young ones.

Characteristics and place of work
Retinol is pure vitamin A.
It is fat-soluble, unstable, oxidizes in air, is destroyed by sunlight and is a recognized antioxidant.
Unlike other components of tonics, peels and most creams that work in the upper layer of the epidermis, retinol penetrates deeper and acts on the dermis. The epidermis is the superficial layer of the skin, consisting of five layers of epidermal cells, and the dermis is located under the deepest basal layer of epidermal cells and consists, in turn, of two layers.
Retinol affects gene expression, causing increased collagen production, strengthening the skin from the inside, which leads to a smoothing of its surface.

Confusion with different forms of retinol
Sometimes the short term "retinol" generalizes the entire group of retinoids, which are derivatives of retinoic acid, structural analogues of vitamin A and have a similar mechanism of action in terms of biochemistry. Retinoids include hundreds of different forms of carotenoids and retinol itself. Natural retinoids are formed in the body from vitamin A (retinyl palmitate and acetate, retinaldehyde, retinol, tretinoin), synthetic ones are created in laboratories (tazarotene, isotretinoin, adapalene).
Vitamin A can interact with our skin cells in the form of trans-retinoic acid or tretinoin. In the skin, vitamin A is found in the form of retinyl palmitate, and enzymes convert it into retinol, and then into retinal (retinaldehyde, retinyl, aldehyde) and finally retinoic acid, which affects cellular structures.
Retinoic acid or rutinol is the most powerful anti-aging agent. Retinoic acid isomers - tretinoin (trans-retinoic acid), isotretinoin, alitretinoin.
Retinol in the form of vitamin A is much milder than retinoic acid but is very effective in thickening the epidermis, lightening pigmentation and improving skin texture.
Retinal, aka retinene, aka retinaldehyde is the aldehyde of retinoic acid. It is more delicate than retinol, but more stable and has antibacterial properties, so cosmetics with it are stored better.
Retinyl retinoate has recently entered the Korean market. There is evidence that it is almost 10 times more effective than retinol, and in terms of strength it approaches retinaldehydes, but in general it is much more delicate and retains moisture well.
Isotretinoin, despite its high activity, is an unstable form of retinoic acid. It has a good effect on the functioning of the sebaceous glands.
Tretinoin (trans-retinoic acid) is a natural ionic form of vitamin A that affects the production of fibroblasts and collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin.
Adapalene is resistant to light and oxygen, has a retinoid-like effect, penetrating well into the epidermis, but does not reach the dermis, acting on the surface.
Depending on the problem, choose the right form of retinol.
For example, Derma E Vitamin E 12000 Cream uses retinyl vitamin A palmitate, which is an ester.
With any of the forms of retinol, you can achieve the same anti-aging result, just the exposure time will be different. In one case, the result will be achieved in a short time, in the other case, it will take much longer.

Packaging matters
You can choose not only the form of retinol, but also the form of packaging. In any case, a tube like RoC, a bottle with a pipette like Mad Hippie or a pump bottle like MyChelle Dermaceuticals is preferable to a cream in a jar.
In the canned version, there is a greater chance that the sun's rays and air will take away some of its strength from the wonderful retinol.

"Retinol face"
This term cosmetologists call the skin of patients who overdo it with retinols.
Exceeding the individual dose and concentration of retinol leads to dryness, which in turn accelerates the process of sebum secretion. If the owners of dry skin are always very careful about retinols, which cause redness, dryness and flaking, then the owners of oily and combination skin strive for this dryness and fall into a vicious circle: overdried skin, they cause increased fat content, sebum begins to be produced at an accelerated pace, and as a result we get oily dehydrated skin.
Retinols are often paired with other actives such as salicylic acid and vitamin C as in InstaNatural and MyChelle Dermaceuticals products.

Do you hide from the sun
Is it possible to get after using retinol sunburn? No. Cream with retinol should be protected from sunlight due to the fact that this substance is destroyed by light, but cosmetics with retinol, when applied to the skin, do not provoke sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, increasing skin photosensitivity to a much lesser extent than is commonly believed.
The rejuvenating effect of retinols is much stronger than the possible destructive effect of the sun. This conclusion has been repeatedly confirmed by clinical trials on hundreds of volunteers.

For dry or wet
It is believed that retinol is applied only to dry skin. This is indicated in the instructions for most products with retinols, retinoids and retinoic acids.
In some creams or serums, there is no additional indication of which skin to apply retinol according to the degree of moisture. The main condition - the skin must be clean.
Currently, there is no confirmed scientific study on the increased sensitivity of wet skin to retinols.

Long, short...
Some cosmetic brands promise to see the effect of retinol in a week, claiming improved, accelerated and advanced retinol with another innovative formula, as, for example, in Neutrogena cream, Night cream quick anti-wrinkle action.
Others argue that changes that are noticeable to the eye will begin only after a month and a half.
Cosmetologists come up with new forms. No longer a novelty - slow-release retinols that give a stable, prolonged result. These forms include Skin By Ann Webb, Clinicals Super Retinol, a slow release cream.
In fact, skin improvements from the action of the most powerful of retinols, retinoic acid, will begin at least 12 weeks after the start of its regular use. To see the result from softer retinols, you have to wait even longer.

Retinols and allergies
Acquaintance with retinols is better to start with lighter and weaker forms, over time increasing their strength, concentration and frequency of use.
If the skin turns red and flaky, you just need to reduce the concentration and frequency of use of retinol or take a softer form. Such a skin reaction is considered normal, is not an allergy and does not imply a complete rejection of retinol.
To soften the action of retinol, a moisturizer or mask can be applied over it.
Retinol can be chosen for any skin, even for the most sensitive and capricious. Among night or day creams, serums or essences, there is sure to be one that is right for you.

Retinol, eyes and lips
As shown by dermatological tests, retinols can be applied under the eyes up to the eyelid. Retinol does not harm even the most delicate areas of the skin, helping to care for the lips, making the smile younger and more attractive.
There are a lot of retinol eye creams from different brands, they differ from face options in a lower concentration of the active substance, but lip retinols are often ball-shaped, as in the Life Flo Health product, Retinol A 1%.

Demonstrated to be highly effective in combating all signs of skin aging (loss of elasticity, wrinkles, pigmentation), retinol rightfully tops the list of the most effective anti-aging components in cosmetics.

As you know, retinol, or vitamin A, is a fat-soluble vitamin that we need for vision, healthy skin and hair, normal functioning of the immune system, and bone growth. It is also a natural antioxidant and moisturizer. Split ends, brittle nails, and cracks in the skin and corners of the lips are often indicate a deficiency of this vitamin. It is found in the highest concentration inliver, fish oil,egg yolk, as well as in plant foods - green and yellow vegetables and fruits, some legumes.

Stabilize retinol in pure form difficult, therefore, for cosmetic purposes, its synthetic analogues, retinoids, are used. In creams, the most common form is Retinyl palmitate, it is a more stable chemical compound and less irritating to the skin. Many products also use this form of retinol as Retinaldehyde, which allows them to be used even for sensitive skin without side effects redness and peeling.

What are the improvements in skin condition after using retinol?

Visible smoothing wrinkles both subtle and more marked;
Lightening of age spots and overall skin tone smoothing due to the ability of retinol to regulate melanocyte activity;
Smoothing and smoothing the skin texture, pores become less visible, the skin is smoother due to the renewing properties of this component (stimulates the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes).
The elasticity of the skin increases, retinol is the only active ingredient that acts on collagen in 3 ways: restores its damaged fibers, stimulates the production of new ones and protects by inhibiting collagenase.

What you need to know before you start using retinol?

Retinol increases the sensitivity and photosensitivity of the skin, therefore it is recommended in night care, while a cream with a high degree of protection will be needed during the day. It is recommended to start using the product with retinol in the fall, when solar activity decreases, and then take a break in the spring-summer. With the correct consistent use of retinol in combination with other care products (containing peptides, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid), the result will not be slow to affect after 2 months of use. During pregnancy and lactation, it is better to refuse products with retinol.

How to use retinol-containing products correctly for maximum effectiveness?

The latest generation of cosmetic products usually contain microencapsulated pure retinol, which is released upon contact with the skin and consistently delivers optimal doses of vitamin A to the deep layers of the epidermis.

Most European dermatologists and dermopharmacists recommend starting rejuvenation course with retinol from its low concentrations (0.50% - 0.1%) or from products containing a precursor of retinoic acid - retinol dehyde, well tolerated even by sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions. Since we are talking about rejuvenation, as a rule, there is no need to use products with retinol until the age of 35-40, although this does not mean that after 35 its use is already necessary. It all depends on the condition of the skin, its needs and the means used earlier.

In night care, retinol creams are best used. 3 times a week. However, the daily use of retinol is not ruled out. as an intensive caresmall concentrations for 2 months, and then for maintenance care - 2-3 times a week.

The product is applied to thoroughly cleansed dry skin, with the first application, a slight tingling is possible - until the skin gradually gets used to it.

If you need to use an additional care product after a product with retinol, you should wait at least 30 minutes before applying the next product (this can be moisturizing, tightening serums or creams). However, as a rule, night creams with retinol contain other active caring ingredients, which makes them a comprehensive complete care.

What products to combine retinol with for the effect of renewed smooth skin?

It is very important to remember that retinol is hydroscopic, i.e. can dehydrate the skin therefore, it is necessary to combine its use with moisture-retaining products rich in hyaluronic acid or gluconolactone. Their use should be included in the daily morning care, and at least once a week it is necessary to apply a deep moisturizing mask.

Due to its renewing power, retinol is ideal as a transcursor for the absorption of the active ingredients of products combined with it. The best results are seen when combined with vitamin C, that is, at night - retinol, in the morning - vitamin C. As a night remedy on days when retinol cream is not applied, many cosmetologists advise using products with glycolic acid, which itself itself is one of the strongest anti-aging agents. Thus, the surface layers of the epidermis are gently exfoliated and renewed. (glycolic acid) and deeper (retinol). I talked about my experience in using products with glycolic acid, and about the top 5 best pharmacy creams with its content - .

PSample model of anti-aging everyday skin care with a course of retinol will look like this:

Morning: cleanse + vitamin C antioxidant moisturizer + SPF (remember to reapply every two hours if you're outdoors).

Evening: cleansing + retinol product (2-3 times a week) + if necessary, additional care after waiting 30 minutes. On the rest of the week, instead of retinol, a product with glycolic acid is applied. It is necessary to supplement such care with a deeply moisturizing mask 1-2 times a week.

Personal experience with retinol

I bought my first retinol cream after 35 years, it was Retinol 0,3% from SkinCeuticals. I wanted to smooth out the already noticeable wrinkles between the eyebrows and on the forehead, narrow the pores and make the skin surface smoother, even out its tone, and also lighten the spots from post-acne. By that time I had already used creams containing glycolic acid 15%, which my skin perceived with a bang. My dermopharmacist advised me to introduce retinol into my skin care course in the fall to work deeper on mimic wrinkles between the eyebrows and, in general, on uneven skin texture.

I must say that I followed the above skin care regimen and used the Liposomal Antioxidant Serum in the morning, and protective screen from SkinCeuticals. In night care I alternated Retinol 0,3% (3 times a week) with NeoStrata High Potency Gel with 15% Glycolic Acid. I combined both of these products with active moisturizing and tightening ampoules.

Already after two weeks of such care, the skin tone noticeably evened out, it tightened and became more radiant, smoothed, the pores became cleaner. At the same time, a slight tightness and dehydration began to be felt, sometimes the skin on the nose was peeling. These annoyances quickly disappeared with the introduction of morning care. Hydrating B5 Hydrating B5 Hydrating Serum by SkinCeuticals (dermatologist recommended over C-vit Serum) And using 2 times a weekHydrating Cream Mask by Caudalie.

As for mimic wrinkles on the forehead and between the eyebrows, after a 2-month course, they definitely softened, but still you can’t say “disappeared”.

1. Retinol 0,3% , SkinCeuticals is my favorite and an absolute must-have for anti-aging night care in the autumn-winter period. Ultra-light texture, quickly absorbed without leaving a greasy film. average price 90 euros. Capacity in 30 ml. it is spent very economically: it was enough for a full course of 5-6 months and the contents still remained.

2. redermicR, La Roche-Posay - this cream, in the year of its introduction, 2012, became the winner in the nomination "Best innovative product among anti-aging products" according to the results of the annual vote of dermopharmacists in Spain. High efficiency without skin irritation, pleasant light texture. The average price is 38 euros.

3. Eluage, Avéne - a whole range of products for the care of the face, eye contour and body. An ideal product for sensitive skin based on retinol dehyde, improves skin elasticity. For the face, it is available as an emulsion - for normal, oily or combination skin, and as a cream for dry. The average price is 30 euros.

4. LipoCeuticalRetisesNano, the Spanish pharmaceutical concern Sesderma, - the plus of this product is that retinol is contained in nanosomes, which contributes to its transportation to the deeper layers of the epidermis. Presented in concentrations of 0.15%, 0.25% and 0.50%. The price is from 45 to 50 euros depending on the concentration.

5. Kinetinol, Martiderm. Its texture is more suitable for normal and dry skin, it also has a regenerating and nourishing effect. Here, retinol acts in synergy with such an active ingredient as kinetin, in addition, it contains macadamia, shea, jojoba oils, vitamin E and a regenerating complex. The average price is 32 euros.

Have you used retinol products yet? What product with its content was effective for you?

We recently discussed effective. These include Retinol (vitamin A), which successfully fights wrinkles, activates collagen production and controls pigmentation. But it also has features that must be taken into account. Therefore, today we will tell you what you need to know about cosmetics with retinol before you start using it.

1. Combining retinol with other ingredients
If cosmetics with retinol are used together with products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) or, you are guaranteed reddening of the skin. These substances are often found in acne-fighting cosmetics.

Another undesirable partner is benzoyl peroxide. It deactivates retinol. Therefore, to avoid side effects or lack of effect, check the composition of cosmetics that you apply before or after a cream with vitamin A.

2. Exposure to the sun
The best time to rejuvenate with retinol is autumn and winter. Retinol increases the sensitivity and susceptibility of the skin to light exposure, therefore it is recommended for night care in the cold season, when there is minimal solar activity.

3. During pregnancy and lactation, it is better to refuse products with retinol.

4. Excessive use of cosmetics
Before using cosmetics with retinol, it is important to remember that everything is good in moderation. When you start using such cosmetics, slight irritation is acceptable, but only a slight one, which will be noticeable only upon closer inspection.

If you get the effect of sunburned skin, there may be two reasons - either you took a product with an excessively high content of retinol for your skin, or you used cosmetics too often. In such cases, it is worth switching to a milder formula or using the product only once or twice a week until the skin adjusts.

5. Constancy and routine
Overloading the skin with cosmetics with retinol is harmful, but the irregularity in its use can cause even more damage to the skin. For example, you used the cream for a week, got scared of the skin reaction and put it off for a month, and then decided to try again. With this approach, the skin will never get used to this product, and you will not get desired result.

The beneficial properties of retinol are fully revealed only with prolonged and systematic use. Habituation to retinoic acid is formed in skin cells only after two to three weeks of regular use. After transition period the skin stops reacting with irritation.

Everything, as in sports and in general in all serious undertakings - you will never achieve serious results if you practice irregularly and quit when the slightest difficulty appears. Therefore, only those who use cosmetics with vitamin A on a regular basis will see the real effect of using retinol.

Before applying cosmetics, you need to know all the nuances and follow the rules. It is for this reason that we read on the forums a lot of negative reviews about cosmetics and, in general, about the most different things from our life.

The popularity of retinol in the world of aesthetic medicine is growing by leaps and bounds: the yellow vitamin is being used more and more. As part of creams, masks, peels and many other cosmetic products, retinol has received a well-deserved place of honor. It is surprising that vitamin A or retinol is named the first letter of the alphabet, since it is the first vitamin discovered. About him useful properties It has been known for a long time, but retinol has become widely used in cosmetology only recently.

Retinol cream: how to make it work right

The effectiveness of retinol products in cosmetology is due to the effect of this vitamin on human skin. Retinol is one of the most powerful antioxidants: it stimulates skin cells to divide, accelerates their renewal processes, and also works as a peeling, due to its ability to exfoliate dead cells of the stratum corneum of the skin.

Many experts believe that it is retinol that is a revolutionary tool, which, due to its properties, can have a pronounced anti-aging effect.

Another important property of retinol is its fat solubility, due to which it penetrates the skin well when applied externally. However, in order to achieve the maximum effect from the use of retinol cream, you need to learn how to work with it correctly.

Rules for the effective use of cream with retinol

Cream with retinol literally works wonders, since its main component is able to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin, thinning its stratum corneum and simultaneously tightening the dermis. 20 simple secrets to the correct use of retinol cream will help you maximize the effectiveness of the drug and achieve a pronounced result.

1. Retinol creams can be formulated in both soft and strong forms. The former include retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate, while the latter include retinol and retinaldehyde. It is these components that should be sought in the composition of a cosmetic product.
2. The best choice- this is encapsulated retinol, because it is this that significantly increases the effectiveness and stability of the product. For example, a formulation with 0.5% encapsulated retinol will be much more effective than 2% non-capsulated retinol.
3. Cream with retinol should be stored in a container with a dense dark glass, as vitamin A is destroyed under the influence of light.
4. It is important to avoid retinol in jars, because oxygen affects the vitamin as detrimentally as light, and in the jar the cream is constantly in contact with air.
5. Fragrances, alcohol, dyes and preservatives in the composition of the cream with retinol increase the likelihood of adverse reactions.
6. The concentration of retinol in the product should be increased gradually: starting from low concentrations - 0.025% -0.04%.
7. Retinol cream should be applied to dry skin, otherwise the chances of skin irritation increase.
8. If the patient's skin has reacted to the remedy with retinol irritation, the concentration of the vitamin in the cream should be reduced.
9. Since vitamin A is afraid of light, retinol cream is best applied at night, and during the day it is necessary to use cosmetics with SPF on top of it.
10. Small portions of the cream should be applied to the face to avoid a negative skin reaction.
11. If the cream with retinol dries the patient's skin - 15-60 minutes after its application, you can use a moisturizer.
12. Vitamin A products can be gently applied under the eyes, but should not be used on the eyelids and under the eyebrow to avoid getting the cream in the eyes.
13. If, after applying the product, the skin immediately turns red and becomes hot, it must be washed off immediately!
14. Acids work well with retinol, a cream with retinol and glycolic acid is a particularly effective anti-aging agent.
15. If necessary, cosmetics with retinol can be combined with pharmacy retinoids, but their application must be alternated.
16. Retinol cream should be used as soon as possible after opening the container in which it is contained, since vitamin A is destroyed by oxygen.

17. Containers with lids or pipettes must be closed very tightly after use.
18. An open container of retinol cream is best stored in the refrigerator door.
19. Retinol cream should not be used intermittently and requires consistency for optimal results.
20. You can evaluate the results of using a cream with retinol not earlier than after 3 months of constant use of the product, and the maximum result - after a year.