Crochet hats with brim winter. Warm winter hat

Hello, today's topic is this is KNITTING HAT… I will show you the most beautiful models women's hats for the winter of 2016-2017 and tell you exactly how they are connected ... In this article I will reveal to you the general principle of knitting women's hats and berets(both crochet and knitting). You can already about one photo to understand exactly how this hat is connected... and LEARN without diagrams and descriptions to figure out for yourself what and in what sequence you need to do in order to eventually knit just such a winter hat as in the photo.

Today we will knit...

• hats-caps on knitting needles (elongated and on the head)
• beret hats on knitting needles and crochet (fluffy and not so)
• women's turban hats (I will show one simple way on knitting needles)
• knitted hats with fields and visors (I will tell you in detail how to make fields)
• winter hats with elegant soft lapels
• and dried wool caps designed like an English lady.

So, let's start knitting our autumn and winter hats.

Let's start with the simplest ones... and move on as the task becomes more complex.

Women's hats SIMPLE KNIT spokes ...

(cut CAP)

The fastest knitting hat is when you just chose one simple pattern(gum, English gum, knit-rice) ... And drive almost the entire (or even all) part of the canvas in one pattern. Starting from the crown - in each row we begin to decrease the loops, and when 15-20 loops remain on the knitting needles - we pull the thread through them - and simply pull them into one bunch-point at the back of the head. According to this principle, the cap is knitted in the photo below - (25 rows of knitting of the "rice" pattern ... and 15 rows of purl loops with decrease).

And in the same knitting with the “rice” pattern, it would be nice to knit a cozy scarf-snood (collar).

In such a RUNNING PATTERN (of the same type) can be connected as dense winter hat (covered over the head) ... So loose spacious knitted hat pattern. You can decorate a women's hat with one or two fur pompoms.

Can be knitted HAT-CAP - as in the photo below . She looks best when it has a fairly wide (16-20 rows) gum. With a narrow elastic band, such a hat is not suitable for anyone ... as it visually cuts off the skull. A wide elastic band, on the contrary, visually stretches the oval of the face ... opens the forehead and gives volume.

To knit any hat pattern exact knitting pattern in principle, it is not needed ... Since all the hats in the world are knitted according to general principle. Below I give a general knitting pattern for hats-caps... And a little lower I will give a knitting pattern for all berets.

GENERAL KNITTING SCHEME

for any caps.

Such hats-caps can be knitted according to a simple WITHOUT PATTERN ... or according to RELIEF or OPENWORK pattern. Choose any knitting pattern on any site ... and go.

Step 1 - START KNITTING

First and we knit an elastic band (in 12-15 rows) and further ( without adding loops on the knitting needles) we knit an already patterned fabric of a hat. We get a model similar to the photo of the purple hat is above.

Or after knitting the elastic we can add stitches on the needles... and our canvas will begin to expand ... and we will get a model of a cap that is lush in volume (as on the pink model from the photo above ).

An important rule for adding loops.

When adding loops when knitting a hat with a pattern only one thing matters - the total number of loops on the knitting needles should be DIVIDED BY THE REPORT of the pattern (by the number of loops that are repeated in the pattern pattern) ...

For example, the report (repetition) of our pattern is 8 loops ... which means that the total number of loops on the knitting needles should be divided by 8 ... For example, it should be 160 ... or 168 ... or 176 loops ... (edge-edge loops do not count).

Step 2 - BASIC KNIT.

Further, when the loops are added we begin to knit a pattern ... repeating reports ...
We drive the patterned canvas on rows 40, if you want the usual size of the cap ... (it also depends on the thickness of the threads) Trying on the head ... in the process of knitting, you yourself will understand when it’s enough to drive in a straight line and it’s time to narrow the fabric at the crown. (You can run such a patterned canvas longer so that the hat is higher ... or finish earlier so that the hat wraps around the head, and does not stick out or hang down - everything is up to you)

Step 3 - COMPLETING THE HAT .

Then when our hat approaches the back of the head(or whatever length you want)… we start to close the loops 4 each (or 6 ... or 8 each) in each row - the more you cast off the loops in the row, the faster your knitting will end. Since knitting is completed when 16-20 loops remain on the knitting needles

An important rule of DECREASE loops.

We know that there are fewer stitches on the needles if knit two loops together (as one) ... But in order for the decrease in loops to be UNIFORM - you need to do this decrease in any place ... and in certain sectors of the cap ... (so that these decreasing places are at the same distance from each other). That is, we divide the entire circumference of the cap into sectors (as we divide a round cake into equal pieces with a knife) ... usually an even number of sectors can be 6 ... or 8 or 10 ...

If you have a hat with a pattern(in which some drawing-report is repeated) - then the drawing itself can be a sector ... Then we make the decrease in a certain (at your choice) place of the pattern- and so in each repetition of the pattern we knit two loops together as one.

Here's what it looks like in the process sector decrease loops when knitting any hat or beret ... (it doesn’t matter if you knit it on two knitting needles or on circular ones).

For example- we have 160 loops on the knitting needles - and we have reached the top of our hat and we need to decrease. We decide to decrease evenly in 10 places of each row ... So we need to divide our hat into 10 sectors.

Then we divide 160 by 10, we get the number 16 ... (that is, we mentally divide the hat into sectors - 16 loops in each sector). And so we continue...

In our first decreasing row we will knit at the end of each 16th loop two loops together(that is, we pick up each 15th and 16th together and knit as one) ...

In the second decreasing row there is one less loop in the sector (and we will already pick up together every 14th + 15th loop in a row) ....

In the third decreasing row- in each sector there are even fewer loops (and we will knit together every 13th and 14th loop).

Everything - now you can complete the knitting.

We collect these remaining loops on a thread... we tighten the thread by collecting all the loops into a bundle and tie it into a knot (we hide the ends of the knot inside). We close the back seam of our hat... and you're done.

LOWERED hat in coarse knit…

If you knit a hat-cap on thick knitting needles and thick threads ... then it’s better to make it SMALL - ON THE HEAD ... and wear it slightly tilted back (that is, without pushing it over your forehead).

The knitting principle is small low hat- exactly the same as that of a high cap-cap ... It’s just that here the FRONT PART of the knitted fabric will not be so long ... that is, we’ll move on to the TOP PART with its loop-reducing rows early.

Knitted hats - WITH EARS.

HAT WITH EARS №1 (dark gray in the photo below) You can KNIT the ears separately and then sew them to the right place of the finished knitted hat.

HAT WITH EARS №2 (light gray in the photo above) - we knit a hat in the form of a pipe - without reducing the loops at the top, and then just close the loops and sew the front and back of the hat together in a straight line. T about there, the top of the pipe was flattened (and this flattened edge was sewn together)

And then the corners of this straight seam we turn into ears. To do this, we make a seam with threads DIAGONALLY cutting off this corner. We make a seam with a thread, pierce through both layers (front and back) and not with a needle, but with an ordinary crochet hook we thread the thread back and forth. Thus, our corner will not be pulled over the head like the whole hat, but stick out like a separate ear. And from the other corner of our flattened and sewn cap pipe, we make out the same eye, in the same way.

Or such ears can be conceived on knitted hat with braids - with lush embossed pattern. It is easy to knit with your own hands.

Knitted HATS with knitting needles - WITH BRAIDS.

very nice on women's hats looks LARGE RELIEF KNIT "BRAID"

And braids can be placed vertically(as on the ash-pink hat from the photo below).

Or you can make a longitudinal knitting of a hat - not from the forehead to the top of the head, but along the side line (along the girth of the head) - and then our braids will be horizontal left to right - like on the gray hat from the photo below.

KNITTED HATS -

With lapels and FIELDS.

Fashionable hats with fields- reminiscent of elegant hats - so feminine, ideal for an elegant coat with flirty gloves ... Under loose curly hair

Sometimes the fields are knitted SEPARATELY and then sewn to the edge of the finished hat ...

Sometimes, in order to give such fields the necessary rigidity, special blanks of felt fields are cut out ... and inserted inside the fields folded in half (like a bookmark in a book). This is exactly what is done on the knitted hat from the photo below.

Here, try to make the same (as in the photo above) fields on your hat - it's easy to do it yourself ...

Step 1 (preparatory)

First you knit a hat ... Then you cut it out of felt a figure resembling a bagel (a pancake with a hole)... the inner edge of the donut hole should be the same size as the circumference of your head and the edge of the hat.

Step 2 (knitting )

Then on the needles we will knit DIRECT (rectangular fabric gum pattern).

To do this, we collect such a number of loops ... so that the future canvas is equal to the length of the OUTER circumference of a donut made of felt (you can measure it with a centimeter or a school formula) ...

The length of the canvas should be twice as wide as the thickness of the bagel - to wrap the bagel with it from below and above (since knitted fields the caps go both above and below) ... That is, we knit the fabric and from time to time try it on to the width of the cut out donut - we wrap the barrel of the donut from the bottom and top sides and see how many more rows are missing ... we knit to the desired length.

Step 3 (stitching )
When the canvas is connected (that is, it has reached a sufficient width for wrapping and sewing a “donut-blank” into it), we are on our canvas close the loops ... remove it from the knitting needle.

We wrap our felt bagel with a knitted cloth ... so so that the fold of the canvas is along the OUTER edge donut ... and the connecting seam of the doubled fabric went along the inner edge of the donut fields was ... (that is, we immediately wrapped and sew the halves of our canvas along the inner edge of the donut)

And then along the edge of the same seam we sew our finished fields to the finished hat. And that's all. You can now crochet a beautiful fluffy flower and add it to the side of your hat.

Another way to make fields on a knitted hat.

And in the fashionable model of a light beige hat (from the photo below) - the fields are formed by themselves when bent in half knitted classic elastic band (one front, one purl). it's easy to do it by hand.

That is, we knit an elastic band for a hat twice as long what the margins should be... and then fold it in half. We stretch the bend slightly with our hands in breadth so that it protrudes with a visor.

Sometimes a fishing line is inserted into such a protruding bend of the elastic- this is done so that the edges of the fields do not wrinkle from wear, but always remain even and elastic.

Sometimes a corset tape is inserted inside the bend - for rigidity(the tape with which the trousers are hemmed below) - and sewing threads(tone on tone) is neatly and imperceptibly sewn with through stitches through the edge of the fields.

And here is a hat with WIDE lapels-brims .

Here, the lapel is knitted in the shape of a bell ... which has two sides (inner - light, and outer dark). Now we will make it with our own hands.

Such a hat must be knitted starting from the back of the head... that is, from top to bottom (since it will be convenient to adjust the scope of the fields ... and in which case, it will be convenient to dissolve them and knit again ....

A simple knitting pattern for this WIDE TWO-COLOR BRIM HAT…

1. Knitting this black hat with white fields - we start from the top ... just knit a straight fabric (or a straight pipe, if on circular knitting needles) ... The fabric of this pipe should be so long that it covers the head from the crown to the forehead.
2. We turn to white threads - and sharply expanding canvas from the edge of the forehead (adding loops in each row). A shape similar to a bell is formed (we reach the very edge of the fields - trying on in front of a mirror to decide whether such a width of the fields was enough for us). It was we who tied the white side of the fields (the one that is visible in the photo).
3. We change the threads to black ones and knit the Narrowing in the opposite direction (reducing the same number of loops in each row as we added before). ... this will be the reverse side of the lapel of the fields (dark) which is not visible, hidden-turned away in the photo.
4. It turns out a design in the form of ... first a narrow black pipe .... then an expanding white part... and then a narrowing black part.
5. At the widest point of the canvas(where the white turns into black again) we bend the canvas in half (we folded the fields of the cap in half ... And we sew this addition-we fasten it with threads - we fix this double sandwich of fields.
6. And then only remains sew the top crown seam of the cap - fold it with an envelope as seen in the photo and secure with threads ... and (if we did not knit on circular knitting needles) we make the back seam of the cap.

Note - if you knit such a hat from thick dense threads, then the fields can not be made DOUBLE - without this they will turn out to be dense and upright .

(If suddenly it was unclear explained - write in the comments, I will explain in more detail and even draw ... and maybe even calculate the number of rows and loops in a row).

Knitted hat with brim - crochet.

And here is a MULTI-COLORED hat, which is crocheted. Crochet fields are generally easy to knit. There is no need to be smart here - know, drive the columns in a circle, sharply adding their number in the fields.

And then, at the very edge of the fields (on the last rows), you need to slightly reduce the number of columns so that the cap itself asks for a neat bend upwards.

KNITTED HATS -

WITH SOFT VALVES.

fields knitted hat can be soft and easy to turn away to the hat... then we have an elegant lapel on a knitted cap.

Here in the photo below we see an example of how a ONE-SIDE SIDE lapel is made.
How exactly it is made, I think everyone understands.

knitting first top of the cap... And then we knit the lapel part itself as a separate long canvas on knitting needles (similar to a scarf). There is only one pattern - both from the front and from the wrong side we knit all the time one face loop... we get a ribbed pattern (it is thanks to this ribbed pattern that our fields keep their shape well).

Buttonholes are not required- just sew the edges of the canvas overlapping each other ... and sew on buttons for decoration.

Here is the front opening . The hat is knitted on two needles (without elastic) so that the fabric itself is wrapped up with a beautiful roll up. The pattern looks like RICE...

But the lapel, which is uniform around the entire circumference of the cap. It is decorated with a neat flower.

Hat with cuffs - soft angora.

And here is another fashionable hat - in it we see a non-standard circular knitting – and the direction of the knitted fabric goes across - this made it possible to come up with such beautiful lapel fields.

Here the knitting direction is HORIZONTAL (and apparently in the shape of a trapezoid)... which is then sewn into a hat (if suddenly something extra is connected) you can always correct it with scissors (roughly) and close the cut with threads.

To be sure, we can first do Trial mock-up of a hat from a piece of an old sheet(to guess its shape) ... then knit the canvas according to the shape of the layout ... and fold such a hat.

And even better... tie such a hat ONE SIZE BIGGER ... and therefore REDUCE-Dump it (like a felt boot) in hot water(40 degrees) in washing machine... The knitting will immediately become very dense - the hat will become denser and one size smaller.

MORE ABOUT THE RULES OF FELTING I will tell you right now using the example of the following two hats.

HATS KNITTED WITH lapels - dried.

See what fashionable dried hats you can knit on knitting needles ... and dump in the washing machine.

They knit first bigger size than necessary. Then they are washed in hot water and the wool shrinks. decreases by 30% and the hat becomes plump and warm, as if made of soft felt fabric.

I’ll say in advance that both gray and pink hats are knitted according to the same instructions - this is the same model, it’s just that the manual drapery of the fields (with the help of hat pins) is slightly different.

A detailed description of the dumped hats from the photo above.

(gray and red hat).

Characteristics of the material and product.

200 g of yarn Wash+Filz-it! Fine

(100% wool, 50 g\100 meters No. 00120

circular needles No. 5, stocking needles No. 5
Buckle + pin, brooch, buttons (for finishing hat fields).

Product size before felting: head circumference 70 cm, height 26.5 cm.

Product size after felting: head circumference 54, height 20 cm.

Before starting work- you should knit a sample from the purchased yarn - mark a 10 by 10 cm square on it with a bright thread. Then dump this sample in the washing machine and check how it decreases.

According to the declared yarn- the density of knitting before and after felting should match the following:

Knitting density before felting: 10 x 10 cm = 16 sts and 22 rows

Knitting density after felting: 10 x 10 cm = 20 stitches 29 rows

And if your data is different (and this may be due to a different yarn, too tight knitting, or vice versa, your habit of knitting loosely and sweepingly), then you need to dial the number of loops on the knitting needles a little different. In accordance with how your prototype differs from the one shown above.

In order not to peer into the small print and encrypted abbreviations, I decided to paint step by step and in rows the whole knitting process and hat assembly.

STEP 1 - knit the main part of the brim of the hat.

We start knitting from the fields - that is, we collect 124 loops on circular knitting needles and knit circular rows with the front stitch. 20 rows in a circle. And we get the straight part of the fields (gray shading on the pattern of the fields). And we will only have to connect that part of the fields, which will be an elongated triangular shape in the pattern from the diagram below.

STEP 2 - start changing the shape of the fields

(narrow on one side and wide on the other side).

At a height of 9 cm (= after 20 circular rows) we knit short rows- every other row we will decrease by 10 loops. This is necessary so that our fields turn out to be different in level - on the one hand, our field will turn out to be wider (there will be more rows), and on the other hand, our hat field will be narrow (in the place where we reduced every second row by 10 loops). Now you will learn how it is done, and understand how it will look.

I decided write each row, which you knit - so that you can knit without bothering your brain by strictly repeating the steps described below.

So, at a height of 9 cm (after 20 circular rows), we knit short rows as follows.

We have 124 loops on the knitting needles. We start knitting 21st circular row but we knit this row not to the end, but to the last 10 loops of the row(that is, we do not knit all 124 loops that are on the knitting needles, but only 114 facial loops) , after which we stop and we need to turn the work back to front (so that the wrong side of the knitting is already looking at us) and we can knit in the opposite direction of the circle.

And in this back way we do 1 yarn over right needle And knit the 22nd row – the same reduced by the number of 114 loops, but already on the wrong side. We knit this amount to the end and turn our knitting back to the front side to knit the next 23rd row. Here's what it looks like in a picture (I hope I made it clear).

On this front side and knit 23rd front row- but we also do not knit all 114 loops - but again we turn the knitting without reaching 10 loops to the end. That is, in the 23rd row we must knit 104 front loops. And turn to the wrong side - to knit on it 24th row - 104 purl loops (before each purl row, do not forget to make 1 yarn over on the right knitting needle). And we turn back to the front side.

25th row we also do not knit 10 loops to the end - but stop at knitted 94 front loops- and turn to the wrong side. Where do we knit 26 row - purl 94 loops. And we turn back to the front.

This 27th row we also do not knit up to 10 purl loops - that is, we only knit 84 front loops. Turn knitting inside out and knit 28th purl row - 84 loops. And again we turn to the front side.

This 29th row we also reduce by 10 loops - that is, we only knit 74 front loops, and turn the knitting on the reverse wrong side, and knit 30 row - 74 purl loops. We return to the front.

This 31 row- we again reduce by 10 loops - that is, we only knit 64 front loops. Turn inside out - knit 32 row - 64 purl loops. We return to the front side.

This 33 row 54 front loops 34th row - 54 wrong loops. Expand to the front.

This 35 row- we again reduce the knitting by 10 loops - we knit only 44 front loops. Turn inside out and knit 36th row - 44 wrong loops. We return to the front side.

This 37 row- we again reduce the knitting by 10 loops - we knit only 34 front loops. Turn inside out and knit 38th row - 34 wrong loops. We turn to the front side.

This 39 row- we reduce the knitting by 10 loops for the last time - we knit only 24 front loops. Turn inside out and knit 40th row - 24 purl loops. And after that, we turn the knitting with the front side towards us for the last time. This was the last short row. We are back on the front side.

And now we can continue our usual circular knitting- together with all 124 stitches in a row.

STEP 3 - knit the main dome of the cap.

So, we have 124 loops on the knitting needles, already connected fields hang from the knitting needles (on one side of the circle, the fields are wider 40 rows high, on the other hand, narrower 21 rows high.). Now we will knit the hat itself - the part that is pulled over the head.

The first thing we need to do is seal the transition from the brim to the dome of the hat. To do this, we knit each loop in together with a crochet.

Here is one way to close the loops - with a hook.

So, we closed 12 loops - and therefore we have 112 loops left on the knitting needles. Of these, we will knit the dome of the cap.

We transfer these loops from circular knitting needles for 4 stocking needles- 28 loops on each of the four knitting needles. And we knit in a circle 30 facial rows up. (Our knit rises another 13.5 cm (excluding margins).

Now we stopped and marked every 14th loop on our knitting (you can pass red ribbons between every 14th loop). We will need these marks (there will be 8 of them) in order to properly reduce the cap (narrow the dome).

We noted and in the next circular row we knit each 14th loop together with the previous one (that is, we knit 13 and 14 together). As a result, we have 104 loops left on the knitting needles.

Next, we knit like this.
In every 4 rows - repeat the decrease(we knit the loop marked with a ribbon together with the previous loop). Doing so 3 times. (That is, 3 rows are simple, 4 we decrease - 3 rows are simple, 4 we decrease and 3 more rows are simply 4 we decrease - three such calls). As a result, we have left 80 stitches on needles.

Now let's get stronger.

In each 2 rows we make the same decrease (in the same places marked with a red ribbon). We repeat 6 times. That is, 12 rows we alternate one simple + one subtractive. As a result, we have 32 loops left on the needles.

And now we come to the end of knitting.

Three rows in a row we make a decrease - in each row. In the same places marked with a ribbon. And on the spokes we have 8 loops left.

We finish knitting: cut the thread, stretch the tail of the thread through these last 8 loops. and pull tight. We fix the end of the thread in the body of the cap (using a crochet hook).

STEP 4 - we roll the hat

in the washing machine

+ form its final form.

And here detailed description how such hats knitted from wool can be DOWN IN THE WASHING MACHINE ...

1. We place a hat in a laundry bag.
2. IN washing machine falling asleep colored laundry detergent. DO NOT add fabric softener or detergent for woollens.
3. Choose mode - delicate wash(it is with a large flow of water - we need this). Mode for washing wool is NOT NECESSARY.
4. Setting the temperature 40 degrees.
5. Best with a hat in the car shove something rough(like jees or towels) - to create additional friction.
6. We start washing - as a result of which the product will decrease by 1/3 (i.e. 30%) After that, we take it out - wring it out and wet it PULL-STRETCH to the size of your head ... (so that she remembers this shape) ...
7. and then we put it on a BLUE where it will dry. It is, of course, understandable that you do not have hat blanks in your household - n oh you can find a replacement for her- for example, a suitable-sized children's ball or a three-liter jar (to increase the size of the jar, you can wrap it with several layers of newspaper, fix it with tape and put on a bag for cleanliness) - put on a hat and leave it like that until completely dry.
8. After you have pulled the hat onto the blank, you must level its fields - stretch the fields so that on one side they are 9 cm, and on the other 15 cm.
9. AND UNTIL THE HAT IS DRY, we do its styling. .

Here is a photo to help you. We approach the mirror and try to lay the fields as shown in the photo. The instructions say this:

Gray hat styling: Align the margins (by 9 cm and by 15 cm). Turn the fields up (both the short and long sides. Take the edge of the short field turned up and turn its half down. Stab this place with a hat pin (buckle + wand).

This hat was knitted in the Land of Mothers.

Description from Yesenia:

Through trial and error, I came to the conclusion that it is better to knit such a hat model with thick yarn in one thread (100-230 m in 100 gr.) Or in 2 threads (150-200 m in 50 gr.), Hook No. 4 -5! Due to this, she gets such an interesting shape, it was not in vain that the scheme was drawn (by the Japanese or Chinese) for 6 rows with increments, and then without increments! For such a model, yarn "Alize LanaGold", Pekhorka "Children's Caprice" in 2 threads (I personally tried it), Vita "Brilliant" in 2 threads (I personally tried it), acrylic (depending on the footage, look in 1 or 2 threads to knit) and any other yarn, just look at the footage and already adjust to it!

According to this pattern, the first 5 rows of the hat are knitted - the bottom. I will give a description, as given in the diagram, for 18 STCH = 18 wedges. I write, as I understood and knitted myself.

1 row. Dial 4 air. p., close them in a ring or make an amigurumi ring so that the hole on the top of the head is not visible. Next, we knit 3 air. lifting point, 17 STSN in the ring, connecting loop in the 3rd air. lifting item. At the end of the row, you get 18 sts.

2 row. 3 air. lifting and in the same column we knit a embossed front column (in this scheme only front embossed columns are used, how they fit), then we knit into the next column of the previous row - 1 STSN and 1 embossed column into it, so to the end of the row. At the end of row 36 stsn.

3 row. We start the row with a relief column (with a connecting loop we pass to a relief one). 3 air. lifting point (beginning of the first wedge), then 1 stsn (into the next loop of the previous row), and then we knit 1 embossed column into the embossed column of the previous row, where we had 3 air. lifting point, i.e. to the beginning of the first wedge (shown in purple in diagram 2). Further into the next relief column (the beginning of the second wedge) - 1 STCH, then 1 STCH (into the next loop), and then 1 relief column at the beginning of the second wedge. So we knit to the end of the row. At the end of row 54 stsn.

4 row. We start a row with a relief column (the beginning of the first wedge) - 3 air. lifting, 1 stsn (in the next loop), then we knit 1 embossed facial column in 3 air. lifting point (beginning of the first wedge), 1 stsn. Next, work 1 dc into the next crochet (beginning of the second wedge), then 1 dc, 1 crochet into the beginning of the second wedge, 1 dc. So we knit to the end of the row. At the end of row 72 stsn.

5 row. We start a row with a relief column (the beginning of the first wedge) - 3 air. lifting point, 1 STSN (into the next loop), 1 relief column in the first 3 air. lifting point, 2 stsn (in the next 2 loops, in each one stsn). Further, in the next embossed column of the previous row (the beginning of the 2nd wedge), we knit 1 stsn, 1 stsn (in the next loop), 1 embossed facial column at the beginning of the second wedge, 2 stsn. So to the end of the row. At the end of row 90 stsn.

6 row. We turn to scheme 1. In this row, in the middle of the wedge, instead of one STSN, a relief column is knitted (drawn in blue on the main diagram). I knit like this. The beginning of the row from the place where the relief column was (the beginning of the first wedge) - 3 air. lifting item, 1 STSN (in the next loop), 1 relief column in 3 air. lifting point (at the beginning of the first wedge), then 1 stsn (into the next loop), and then we knit 1 stsn and 1 relief column (blue hook in the diagram) in one loop - we knitted the first wedge. Next, we knit the second wedge (skipping one loop): 1 stsn in the next relief column of the previous row (the beginning of the second wedge), 1 stsn (in the next loop) and 1 embossed column at the beginning of the second wedge, then 1 stsn (in the next loop), then in one loop we knit 1 STSN and 1 relief column. Further, to go to the 3rd wedge, you need to skip one loop. So about knitting you need 18 wedges. At the end of row 108 stsn.

After the 6th row there are no increases!

Next, we measure the diameter of our circle, if it turned out to be the diameter we need (see in), then we continue to knit according to the scheme 1 - 7th and subsequent rows. If the diameter of the circle is too small, then you need to continue knitting rows with increments (according to scheme 2) until we get the diameter we need!

7-N rows - crowns of the hat. Crossed columns are knitted in these rows. It is better to start a row with STSN, which goes to the relief column. In each subsequent row, you need to move one loop forward with a connecting loop, due to this, the relief tracks will go diagonally, and the beginning of the row should always be obtained from the STCH, which goes to the relief! At the beginning of the row - 3 air. lifting in the sts of the previous row, then you should have a relief column, but first you need to knit 1 stsn in a double crochet, which comes after the embossed column, and then tie 1 embossed column into the embossed column of the previous row, then 1 stsn and again a crossed column: first 1 stsn in stsn, which goes behind the embossed one, and then we knit 1 embossed column into the embossed one. So until the end of the row, due to such a crossing, our relief columns will go diagonally. At the end of this and subsequent rows, there should always be 108 sts! Thus, we knit as many rows as you need in height (keep in mind that the last 2 rows are still knitted with decreases) - this will be the crown of the hat!

N + 1 - a series of crown reductions. We start from the place where you ended the previous row - 2 air. p., 1 unfinished double crochet (into the next loop), then knit together 2 air. p. and an unfinished double crochet (common top), then 1 embossed st in the same embossed st of the previous row - we knitted the first wedge. Then 2 stsn (one double crochet in each next loop), and then 1 embossed column in the same embossed column of the previous row - this is the second wedge. Then decrease again: 2 unfinished double crochets with a common top (we knit one unfinished double crochet in each loop), then 1 relief column into the relief column of the previous row. So we knit to the end of the row. At the end of row 90 stsn.

N + 2 - a series of crown reductions. 3 air. p., 1 embossed column into the embossed of the previous row, then 2 unfinished double crochets with a common top, 1 embossed column, 1 STCH, 1 embossed column, 2 unfinished double crochets with a common top, etc. until the end of the row. At the end of row 72 stsn.

You can reduce immediately in one row by tying 2 unfinished double crochets between the relief columns with a common top!

Hat brim. According to the scheme, 9 rows of STBN fields are knitted. In the 9th row, every 4 stbn 5 and 6 stbn fit together! The number of rows of fields according to your desire. Tie the fields with a crustacean step or come up with something of your own!

According to the scheme, you need to knit 18 STSN = 18 wedges in the first row, I tried 18 wedges, it turns out that it “excites” a little, so I will initially knit 14 STSN = 14 wedges in the first row! I started knitting with my own threads, only in 2 threads and I am already satisfied with the result

The beginning of my knitting. I knit in the same way as described above, only for 14 stsn = 14 wedges, so below I gave how many stsn I got at the end of each row!

1 row = 14 stsn

2 row = 28 stsn

3 row = 42 stsn

4 row = 56 stsn

5 row = 70 stsn

Having connected the first 5 rows, the diameter of the circle was obtained = 14 cm.

The diameter of the circle turned out = 17 cm, what you need

Next, I will knit 7 and subsequent rows, as I wrote in the description for the 7th row without additions with crossed columns. Tied the 7th row, the circle began to round off. As you can see, it is rounded to the front side, do not be alarmed, continue to knit further, when you have more rows of tulle connected, it will wrap on the wrong side!

From the 8th row I will change the thread to melange!

Melange thread turned out 9 rows (without the last 2 rows with decreases), and only 16 rows = 17 cm

Then I knitted 2 rows with decreases. In the first row of decreases, I knitted 2 unfinished sts between the embossed columns (I immediately reduced all the loops in one row), and knitted the second row like this: 1 embossed column, 1 stsn, 1 embossed, 1 stsn and so on. The bottom of the crown is pulled up and sits well on the head. In total, it turned out at the end of the row 57 STSN. The height is 20 cm.

Cords for decoration can be viewed.

Women's knitted hat is one of the most popular accessories at any time of the year. It can be of various shapes and sizes, made with knitting needles of various materials.

It all depends on individual preferences.

One thing is known for sure - to tie a similar headdress under the power of any novice needlewoman.

Hats are different

1. A wide-brimmed knitted hat is relevant in the warm season. As a rule, it is made from cotton yarn. It can be decorated with ribbons, bows and other decorative elements.

Hat "Stranger"

2. Cloche, in other words, a small headdress with small fields. Such an accessory, resembling a bell in shape, was popular in the 20s of the last century. Cloche is back in fashion these days. Depending on the material, similar hats knitted needles can be found in both summer and winter.

There are many more different forms and types. However, the ones listed above are the most popular. When working on them, the main thing is the use of hard, fairly dense threads.

The biggest secret is form

Knitting hats begins with the secret of giving them beautiful shape. Agree that no one wants to spend a lot of time and effort on making a headdress, which in the end will look like a shapeless canvas with fields. Therefore, even before starting work, you should take note of the basic methods and methods necessary for your knitted hat to eventually have the correct shape.

1. Starch and PVA. In a glass of cold water, heat a tablespoon of starch (do not bring to a boil). Sometimes starch solution is used as a spray. As for PVA, it is better to dilute it in equal proportions, for example, 100 per 100 ml. A knitted headdress must be dipped in one or another solution, and then stretched on a pre-prepared frame. Use a jar or large plastic bottle as a frame. The fields will be supported by a cardboard circle, dressed on the main frame.

2. Thick fishing line or regilin, which are tied into fields. Many people like this method of shaping more, since there is no need to repeat the previous paragraph after each wash.

Knitted hat "Stranger"

Knitting hats should begin by measuring the circumference of the head and calculating the appropriate knitting density. The following description of the work is designed for a head circumference of not more than 46 centimeters.

For work you will need:

— circular and stocking knitting needles. The first should be in two sizes, namely 40 and 90 cm;

— wire (thick fishing line or regilin);

— starch solution;

— embroidery needle;

— 100 grams of 100% cotton yarn.

Hats of this model are knitted from the top to the bottom. Remember to switch to circular needles at the right time.

So, cast on 8 stitches using the braided method. Next, you need to mark the middle and close the circle. First, a circular row is performed. This should be done with increments according to the following scheme: 1 front, followed by a yarn, a total of 16 loops. Next, 1 row, follow the usual facial loops. Now the row pattern is as follows: knit 2, then yarn over, 24 loops in total. Knit the next round with knitting needles, using only facial ones. The next row with increases according to the scheme: 3 front, 1 yarn, 32 loops in total. Again, work with the same faces. Next, the next circle with increments according to this scheme: 4 facial, 1 yarn, a total of 40 loops.

Hat spokes "Provence"

It may seem that knitting hats is a tedious and uninteresting activity, which, of course, is not true. You will not repeat the increase for long and on 11 front loops and 1 yarn over you will move on to the next stage of working with knitting needles. Do not forget only during the increase on each 2 circles to additionally knit 1 facial.

Work 1 circular row with loops facial surface. Then the knitted hat moves to loops with broaches. A row is knitted in this way: first, a regular broach, then 10 facial, then 1 yarn over. Repeat the pattern, and tie the next row with simple facial loops. The above steps should be performed until the height from the inlaid edge reaches 10 cm.

Formation of fields

Knitting hats is an interesting activity. On this moment Half of the work has already been completed. Now we have to deal with the formation of fields. This happens according to the following scheme: 12 loops in satin stitch, 1 yarn over, a total of 104 loops. Then perform a row with some facial ones. Further, a knitted hat is made in the usual way - by increasing with knitting needles and an additional facial one in every 2nd circle. You need to complete the increase at the moment when, at the beginning of the circle, you knit 24 loops with satin stitch. 1 row left. After that, you need to close the loops with knitting needles using the cord method.

Final stage

Your knitted hat is almost ready. Thread the protruding ends of the threads and cut off a piece of wire. A knitted hat has a certain circumference of the fields. This measurement will serve as a guideline for the length of the wire. Add a couple of centimeters to the resulting value (to overlap the ends). Use the purl loops and the cord above it to attach the wire to the edges of the headpiece. This should be done, of course, from the wrong side.

A knitted hat should have a shape. This is not difficult to do, because you learned about various methods and methods at the very beginning of work. Apply a starch spray to the finished product and iron the margins gently with an iron.

Greetings! Today I post detailed master class By crochet warm hat with dense fields.

The first post with a description about such a hat was. Those who knitted according to that description had various questions, up to how to knit without lifting loops, how to knit fields and others. Therefore, in the end, I decided to make a new description, because I wrote the past from my memories, and forgot some moments.

True, each time you have to calculate the parameters again for the size of the crown, the number of rows, etc. Because when knitting with a thick thread of embossed columns, the crown seems to rise, and you need to calculate its diameter a little more.

Well, I was contacted according to this scheme, not only hats, but also a hat. Unexpectedly, she aroused great interest among many knitters. Therefore, as I wrote above, I prepared a detailed photo-MK. It is very large, more than 40 photos, I had to split it into two parts.

• In this post I will show you how to knit the crown and crown.
• In the next one, I will reveal the “secret” of how to tie neat margins with a beautiful, thin outer row.

By the way, please note that although the hat is knitted with dense threads and three-dimensional pattern, margins along the edges are thin, light! Everything is done with the same crochet.

Hat size: for a 1.5 year old baby.

I'll show you the crown right away. All pictures are clickable (open when clicked in a new window), can be viewed in the format of a photo album.

So, let's begin. What you need to knit a hat:

• hook No. 3.25 (I have "Addy");
• yarn "NAKO" Bambino, 25% wool, 75% acrylic, 50g/130m, two colors, I will call them "orange" and "green". Although, different names are suitable: orange, carrot, ultra-yellow, light green. The skein of orange color is a little started, from which I knitted flowers for booties-boots. It turns out that thread consumption 100 grams.

Notation used:

• air loop - VP,
• connecting loop - joint venture,
• double crochet - CCH,
• embossed front column with a crochet - RSSN.

How to crochet the top of a hat

Detailed description big flower with a Dorset button associated with this hat can be seen in post . I specially made it earlier so that I could leave a link for those who like the flower.

So, we start knitting with a green thread. Let's make an "amigurumi ring" ("magic loop").

We collect 3VP of lifting into it.

Then 11 double crochets for a total of 12.

They pulled the end of the thread, and pulled it into a ring.

Let's finish with a connecting loop at the top of the first column (that which turned out from the three lifting VPs) - 1 row is ready.

From the second row we will perform crown supplements. Let's start like this:

without lifting VP, we immediately knit RSSN into the leg of the Column CH from three lifting VPs before. row. I show you step by step. They threw a yarn over on the hook.

They captured the leg of one column before. row.

Pulled out the column.

Tied the first Embossed CCH.


We knit the second column - it will be simple, in a jumper (she showed with an arrow where exactly).

And, right there, they tied the Relief CCH nearby. The arrows show two relief columns.

Further * StSN + RSSN * - to the end of the river, only 24. But, there are 23 of them in the photo now. I'll show you how to finish the row so that the seam is invisible.. Now I remember how I know this technique: Olesya has it in the description.

See what we're doing. We knit a simple Column CH into a jumper in front of the first Embossed Column with a crochet so that the seam is not visible. They tied him up.

Then we knit the joint venture into the top of the first column of the previous one. r., i.e. pull it out of here.

I pull it out

And they closed the joint venture. The second row is ready.

Third row: * two Embossed CCHs, 1 simple Column CH * - to the end of the row, 36 in total.

That is, we knit like this: 1 embossed in the 1st RSSN before. row, the second embossed in the leg of a simple Column CH previous. row, next to a simple StolbikSN - in a jumper.

Fourth row: * three Embossed CCHs, 1 CCH * - total 48.

Thus: 1 and 2 Embossed SSN in Rel. SSN prev. p., third Rel. SSN in the leg of a regular double crochet previous. p., and, next to it, knit a simple St CH in the jumper, i.e. again add 1 St CH in each wedge.

Fifth row - 60: * 1,2,3,4 Relief. SSN - shown with red arrows, 1SSN - blue arrow * In the photo of the beginning of the row, the 1st wedge is shown.

I measured it, it's still not enough for the top of my head.

Sixth r. - 72: * 1-5 RelSSN, 1 St CH *.
Seventh r. - 84: * 1-6 RelSSN, 1St CH *.

Eighth r. - 96: * 1-7 RelSSN, 1StSN *. Measured - crown 14 cm. I am knitting a baby hat, so the size of the crown is right for me. If you knit in an adult size, keep in mind that the pattern is voluminous (which I already wrote about above), the top of the head looks larger than it will “sit” on the head.

We will knit a hat with a crown

We turn to knitting the crown, adding a thread of a different color to the main one. I make a loop of orange thread, put it on the hook, which I took out of the main knitting. Then, I pull the first green loop through the orange loop, like this.

Then we knit with green thread 2 Embossed SSN to two Embossed SSN prev. row.

Be very careful here, at the beginning of knitting with different threads. So, it turns out like this: with green we knit 1 RelSSN in the first Rel SSN before. R., 2 - in the second ReliefnSSN before. p., change the thread, knit orange NEARLY into a jumper with a simple StSN.

SKIP the next embossed double crochet (otherwise you will get additions) and again we knit two Rel-x Columns CH green, next to the Column CH orange. Further it will be easier, the main thing is not to confuse anything here.

It turns out that green all the time goes on top, and orange - on the bottom.

And further! Be sure every time, on each column, tighten the loops when changing the threads, otherwise the row will “move out” and the hat will turn out oblique. Hard? It just seems, just be careful and patient, everything will work out!

I'll show you step by step how to do it.

So, the 1st row without increments is connected, it turned out exactly 96 loops. See, my last orange STCH ended just before the previous two PCCHs. row (the small orange dot is the same loop that we made and put on the hook in front of the green one when we started knitting with two threads, remember? Showed with an arrow).

We knit the second row of the crown according to the pattern. No lifting loops! Here is a photo of the first wedge. I'll show you how to tighten the thread.

Look: I knit StSN with an orange thread, while the green one sagged slightly.

So I knitted StSN orange, green hung.

Now, picking up the green one, I immediately pull it up - like this. And, I knit the first of two PCSN green. Look - the orange thread remains at the bottom, the green thread passes from above.

We tied both RSSNs, the orange one sags, now I will pull it up and tie the usual StSN.

Of course, while knitting, both threads do not lie on my knitting, in the photo I specially put them on top so that you can see how they are arranged in my process. And so, they hang from the wrong side, and do not interfere with each other, do not get confused after a couple of such rows are connected.

We knit a tulle, alternating threads. At first, it’s a little unnerving that you have to change them all the time, and make sure that they don’t twist, and the hook doesn’t cling to another. But this is only at the beginning, then one thread will always be on top, the second on the bottom.

That's all for today!

Sincerely, Saule Vagapova

Seal

Crocheted hats often begin to knit from the top of the head and, depending on the shape of the hat, they make increases according to certain patterns. There are three main types of hats.

1.Classic round cap. At the same time, a circle with a diameter of 12 cm is knitted, making increases in each row. Then the increase is done through a row to a size equal to the girth of the head. And then they knit without increments to the required depth of the cap.

2. The cap is slightly elongated. In this case, a circle is knitted with fewer increments. If knitted with single crochets (SC), then in the first row they start with 5 sc and make five increases in each row. If knitted with a double crochet (CH), then start with 10 CH in the first row and make 10 increases in each row. So they knit to a size equal to the girth of the head. And then they knit without increments to the required depth of the cap.

3. "Kuban". Knit a flat circle to the desired girth of the head. The diameter of such a circle is equal to the girth of the head divided by three. Next, knit without increments to the desired height of the crown.

Ways of knitting a flat circle.

1. Knitting with single crochets (RLS). Knit a chain of 5 loops and close it in a circle. In the first row, 6 RLS are knitted, this circle is divided into 6 wedges and 6 columns are added in each row. The increase is always made on the last column of the wedge. In this case, the wedges are symmetrical and the lines of increments between them are noticeable.

2. Knitting with double crochets (SN). Knit a chain of 8 loops, close it in a circle. In the first row, 12 CHs are knitted, the circle is divided into 12 wedges and 12 increases are made in each row.

3. Knitting with semi-columns (PS). Knit a chain of 6 loops, close in a circle. In the first row, knit 8 PS, divide the circle into 8 wedges and make 8 increases in each row.

Ways to make additions.

1 way. The increase is performed on the last column of the wedge . The wedges are symmetrical and the increase line is noticeable.

2 way. The increase is performed on the first column of the wedge. The line of increase is noticeable.

3 way. Increases are made in each wedge so that they are not located one above the other. Then the increase line will not be noticeable.

2nd way to perform increases for RLS