The process of creating an articulated doll step by step.

This is a kind of doll with ball-joints in the body, arms and legs. The limbs and head are connected to each other by an elastic thread.

There are many options in how to join each part of the doll.

STEP 1

We draw a diagram

First, draw a diagram of your future dolls V life size in front and in profile, paying attention to the size of the joints.

Making a frame

We'll show you how to use Styrofoam Styrofoam(universal building insulation blue color, which is used for insulation of all types and elements of buildings) for the frame. Cut out all parts of the Styrofoam doll 10mm smaller actual size details.

The basis

We will make the base from sawdust mixed with glue. This mixture becomes hard and light after drying. We will later remove the polystyrene frame from the base so that the parts become hollow. There are two types of sawdust: coarse and powdery. Powdery sawdust is more suitable for our work. Mix equal parts sawdust and chemical glue with water (you can also use starch) and knead with your hands until it becomes clayey. Don't make too much stuff as it will dry out in a few days and you won't be able to use it. Crumple the resulting mass and wrap it in something so that it does not dry out. Now stick around the frame with a mass of sawdust, using glue to fasten the frame to the mass. Cover all parts of the doll, excluding the joints, with a uniform two-millimeter layer. Let the parts dry. If cracks appear during the drying process, it's okay. Cover them with the same mass and dry

modeling

Mix equal parts sawdust and stoneclay. Draw borders at the top, bottom, right, and left on the seam surfaces.

First, we must cover the entire shape with a uniform layer, and mark the surface for subsequent modeling. Do not use an ink pen for marking, as ink may appear on the surface. A colored pencil is more suitable.

After the shape of the head is finally completed, make the neck in the same way as the rest of the parts, using styrofoam for the frame.

Hand base

Draw a hand and make a sawdust palm. Cut thin wire into 10 finger pieces.

Make holes for the fingers in the palm of your hand with a thin drill.

Fix the wire in the holes with epoxy.

After drying, cut the fingers to normal length and bend them into a suitable position.

Eyes

Now you need to cut the head and scrape out of it styrofoam.

Cut holes for the eyes with a cutter.

Fix eyes with glue

Attach the cut off part of the head with a mixture of sawdust, glue and stoneclay.

head and body

After you work out the features of the face, sand the surface with sandpaper.

Draw the outer line of the ear and make the ears out of sawdust and stoneclay. Make holes for the legs of the arms and neck in the torso of the doll and scrape out the Styrofoam frame from there. Sand the unevenness with sandpaper.

Insert the head into the neck hole and check the balance.

Draw borders on the surface to check for symmetry and unevenness.

Work out the details and sand the surface.

Hands

Pour some coarse sawdust into the cup. Spread glue on the wire frame, put the hand pieces in a cup and stick around them with sawdust.

After drying, work the parts with sawdust mixed with stoneclay.

Cut your arms at the elbows. Insert the connecting balls into the hole in the shoulders and elbows and fasten the parts.

Sand the surface with sandpaper, then stick on top stoneclay to make the surface smooth.

Cut holes in the wrists and glue the connecting balls there with epoxy rubber

At the joints, trim the edges of the joints in the direction of the smooth bend of the parts.

Legs

Draw a sketch of the legs and make the base out of sawdust. Then work the details with a mixture of sawdust and stonaclay. Cut holes (as in the wrists) and glue connecting balls to them.

Fix the connecting balls also at the top of the thighs and at the knees.

Check the proportionality of each part, sand the surface and use stonaclay make it smooth.

Connecting recesses

Interest in bjd dolls, which has become truly international, overcomes geographic and racial prejudices and becomes a common culture for Asian and European peoples. For those who do not yet know what bjd dolls are, let's try to tell.

What is this doll?

BJD (ball jointed doll), translated from English, is a doll with ball joints. Thanks to the connections inside, such dolls can take any pose that looks like a human. Usually, a rubber cord, a tourniquet or a spring is used as a connection.

The first manufacturers to distribute articulated dolls were Japan, South Korea and China.

However, today Europe and America rushed after them, releasing their pets. In Russia, this type of doll became known as BZD.

Classic articulated dolls have the following characteristics:

1. Their body parts are hollow and pulled together with joints;
2. The occipital part, if necessary, can be removed, as it is attached to special clamps or magnets;
3. The eyes can be removed: they are attached with a plastic material resembling plasticine in their qualities;
4. Wigs are also removable;
5. They make dolls from polyurethane, porcelain (mostly copyrighted) or quickly hardening plastic.

However, not all articulated dolls can be called BJD dolls. That is why a separate term has been adopted for them.

The doll can be ordered unassembled and assembled by yourself, or you can also make it ready. The concept of production also includes special tailoring for dolls, including those ordered by the owner.

If you decide to buy articulated dolls, it would be nice to decide on their size. There are several standards:

1. Tiny - 25-30 cm
2. MSD - 38-45 cm
3. SD - 50-68 cm
4. 70+ cm

You can also choose the color of the skin of the doll. Standard are white, pinkish, flesh, imitating tanned skin. For non-standard models, for a fee, you can make a doll with gray or blue skin.

How to buy bjd-dolls?

As a rule, you can buy a quality doll for 150-2000 dollars. The most valuable firms are:

1. soom,
2. iplehouse,
3. ringdoll,
4. souldoll,
5. Volks.

Unpacking on video

However, you can pick up and budget options of several thousand rubles.

You can buy articulated dolls on order. When making a purchase, consider the following factors:

• - it is not always possible to buy bjd-dolls ready-made (as a rule, manufacturers or sellers specify this on the website). If the doll needs to be made, this process will take 1 to 3 months;
• - the price on the site where you want to buy bjd-dolls may not include clothes and a wig, so this fact also needs to be clarified. A dress for a doll and accessories, as well as delivery, are paid separately;
• - types of dolls can be distributed according to their height (the higher the doll, the older character), but this principle does not work in all cases (decide in advance which bjd-doll you want to buy);
• - Decide who you want to buy the doll for. Articulated dolls are an expensive gift, and they are made mainly for adult collectors. If you want to buy a doll for a child, make sure that he appreciates your gift. It makes sense to acquire if a teenager has Creative skills to photography, drawing, writing stories, designing clothes. In this case, articulated dolls will help him to fulfill himself. Remember: BJDs are not intended for ordinary children's games: they need careful care. Collectors acquire them in order to take bright impressive photos, accompanied by stories about the fate of this character. Belarusian Railways is a whole international culture based on the talent and skill of authors and performers.

How to properly care?

Dolls require special care. If you decide to buy it for a child, make sure that he will keep the gift in the right conditions.

Most often, dolls are bought with white skin. It is not necessary to expect that the doll will remain in this color for a long time: under the influence of ultraviolet (sunlight) plastic tends to change color and acquire a greenish tint. To make changes happen as late as possible, follow these rules:

1. Keep the bjd-doll in the shade, in a closet or box out of the sun, of course, when you are not playing with the doll or taking pictures of her.
2. If the doll is often exposed to sunlight, it must be treated with a special aerosol varnish. However, it is very difficult to get it, so it is better not to expose your pet to the sun at all.
3. If the bjd doll does not hold a pose, and you absolutely need it for a long time, you need to glue it at the joints.

To do this, the bjd-doll must be disassembled into its component parts. For gluing, we take the usual transparent construction adhesive, and we will apply it with a thermal gun in the following order:

1. We warm up the gun and load it with glue. Glue better with protective gloves.
2. We take one part and grease the hinge with glue. We do this with all parts.
3. We wait until the glue has cooled, and then put the parts with hinges. Be very careful!

How to do it yourself?

If you think that it is impossible to make articulated dolls with your own hands, then you are mistaken. Of course, they will not be as perfect as factory or author's ones (they are performed by professionals), but you can try.

bjd doll inside

To make a do-it-yourself bjd-doll, first we will present the design of a BJD-doll. The pictures show which parts are articulated and pulled with rubber bands (photo 1).

The tourniquet that supports the arms passes through the chest. Each leg has its own tourniquet. Passing through the body from the neck. At the wrists, neck and ankles, the harnesses are hung on an S-shaped hook. The doll will not stand upright on its own if it is not well balanced. This is what it consists main secret constriction.

So let's get started.

Step 1

The first thing we need when creating a doll is a plan where the balance of each part will be taken into account. First, draw the outlines of the doll.

To cut out body parts, you will need polystyrene foam. From the total mass of material it is necessary to cut out body parts so that they are approximately 10 mm smaller than the final result. This will be the core of the doll. The parts that do not need a core are the hands and feet and the neck. We mark the top and bottom of the doll, as well as the position of the face (see photo 2).

Step 2

Next, we form a paste from sawdust and chemical mass. If you can’t get the chemical mass, you can make clay dough from starch. When the paste is ready, spread it over the entire surface of the doll, except for the parts where the joints will be, and let dry. Make the appropriate marks, as on the Styrofoam (see photo 3).

Step 3

Now he models our bjd-doll with his own hands. Mix sawdust and stoneclay (a kind of plastic that hardens in air) until smooth and apply to the part where the sawdust with the dough is located. All marks during modeling are made only with colored crayons or pencils, since the ink has a strong effect on the material.

From the mass with sawdust, cut out the palm and make 5 holes for the fingers in it. We cut the base for the hand from stainless steel in the form of thin sticks and thread them into the holes. The fingers can be bent to the shape you want. To keep the fingers, they can be fixed to the epoxy (see photo 4).

Step 4

Now set the eyes. Cut the head into two halves. We make holes of the desired shape with a chisel. With the help of a hardening mass with sawdust, we fix the eyes from the inside. We fold the two halves of the head and fasten them with stoneclay (see photo 5).

Step 5

The neck for bjd-doll can also be made from polystyrene foam with your own hands. When the face is drawn, we make ears from stoneclay. Then we release the armholes and insert the head into the upper armhole: set the balance (see photo 6).

Step 6

We lower the prepared hands into a sticky dough with sawdust and form fingers and palms. Then, when dry, apply a hardening mass. We cut the arms at the elbows, cut out the balls from the shoulder joints and insert them into the elbow joints. At the wrists, attach the balls with epoxy. Sand all the details to make them smooth (see photo 7).

Step 7

In the same way, we form the feet from the adhesive mass, cover with stoneclay and glue the balls with epoxy.

Then we glue the balls into the knee joints. To secure the ball, additionally use polyethylene. We do the same with the hip joints.

A do-it-yourself articulated doll is quite real. And confirmation of this is the mass of master classes of beginner needlewomen. If you have perseverance and scrupulousness, you have good modeling skills and artistic taste, then it is likely that you will understand how to make a articulated doll the first time and everything will work out.

We will try to tell and show in detail for beginners everything about the creation process articulated doll with your own hands. The whole process will be accompanied by a photo. Photos taken from different master classes, since after reviewing many, we did not find the ideal ones, which show everything in full. But at the heart of 2 of them: from the author Minchenko Tatyana Vladimirovna and tatala.

Articulated dolls are cast and molded (plastic, papier mache, clay, porcelain). Let's look at the 2nd option, since it is less expensive. And the materials can be bought in a set.

The whole process of creating your own doll can be divided into 3 large stages:

1. Preparation of tools, materials, idea of ​​a doll and drawing a sketch.
2. Modeling, baking, primary processing and the first assembly of the doll.
3. Finishing and artistic transformation.

Preparation of tools, materials, idea of ​​a doll and drawing a sketch

Tools must be prepared in advance, so as not to get into a hopeless situation later and not spoil the work. You will need your manicure set, and preferably a dental one. You will need tiny drills, files, needle files, an awl, wire of different thicknesses, an elastic band (round), sandpaper of different textures, as well as brushes. You need a set like this. And most importantly, plastic is a self-hardening material that is capricious - it does not tolerate drying out!).

Even before starting work, you need to come up with an image of your doll to the smallest detail: age, gender, physique. We recommend everything sketch. For a natural body look, you need to study anatomical structure. Of course, you can do it easier - just take sketch from the internet, but then the doll will be deprived of individuality. But for starters, you can. Also take optimal size: 15-20 cm is small and requires special painstaking and skill, 50-60 cm is large and will take a lot of time and expense, 25-30 cm is the very thing!

So, you can take such a sketch

Modeling, baking, primary processing and the first assembly of the doll

We proceed to the second most laborious stage. I suggest sculpting body parts in the following order:

• body and head;
• hinges (globs);
• leg-arm and articulated fit.

All parts must be hollow except for the hands and feet.

Body molding can be done in several ways. 2 optimal ones - based on foam (take with a fine texture - it will be easier to cut out the desired shapes) and based on foil (wrap in cling film to make it easier to pull out later). In both versions, we make the base 8-10 mm smaller than the sketch and try to fit the base to the sketch as clearly as possible.

We build up the molded base with clay (with gradual baking for 15 minutes and put in a cold oven) or plastic to the desired proportions. Do not forget to constantly apply the workpiece to the sketch and check for symmetry. Of course, we rub with sandpaper until smooth. In the lower part of the body, you need to make round recesses for the hip joints. The same should be done for the shoulders, only smaller. In the same way, we make blanks for legs and arms.

This is how the head turns out. There is a lot of work - you need to gradually get to the right facial expression. The stages of modeling can be mastered with the help of albums on modeling people.

When the torso and head are relatively ready, we proceed to the hinges. We need such a set.

You can simply roll them to the desired size (we put them in the recesses on the body), or you can use cling film. It is very important to sculpt the hinges of the correct spherical shape so that the chrysalis moves well.

While it dries, you can mold the hands and feet.

Now let's move on to the next step. We need to cut the torso with a nail file like this and pull out the foil or foam.

Get it.

Now we carefully cut out the upper part until the cut is smooth and reduce the inner part in thickness so that it can be put on the upper part.

We also cut the legs and arms at the places of the supposed fold. Clean out the foil.

As you can see, the upper hinges in the legs and arms are already glued. We apply the necessary hinges and glue it on the plastic to the bottom, stretch the desired shapes, clean it. We clean the upper part and rub it in a semicircular shape so that the hinges go well.

We also do the legs. With glued balls it turns out like this.

But you can make not a ball in the knee, but a hinge. This is how it looks.

If we make balls, then before inserting them into the legs, you need to cut holes in the hinges with a drill. Like this.

Preparing feet and hands for assembly. To do this, we cut holes with a nail file and insert hooks.

So we prepare the head.

Provided that you like all the shapes, everything is sanded and smooth, we are ready for the first assembly. To do this, we collect gum as follows.

This is a hand mount. The elastic is carried from top to bottom and clings to the hook of the wrist.

The next elastic band is for connecting the head and legs. Also, using a homemade hook, we stretch the elastic band to the feet.

We try to see if our creation is worth it, if all the details are in place, if they rub anything.

Finishing and artistic transformation

Now we disassemble, cover with pink pastel, tint the body and face. And we collect again. Next, we make hair, paint, dress!

It is quite possible to make it yourself, for this you need enough patience and scrupulousness. This master class will help and tell you how to make a articulated doll.
So, we need plastic for such work.

The body of the doll must be empty, for this it is necessary to make a foil base and wrap it with cling film. Sculpt the rest of the body.

After the plastic hardens, pull the foil out of the doll's body.

We lay out all the details in the correct order.

We refine, if necessary, all parts of the body and cut small slots for the thread.

So, now you can carefully start sculpting and cutting out the feet and hands. The basis in the fingers is the wire. In case thin fingers break, you can use super glue.

Also check all hinges and holes for them - everything should be absolutely spherical.

It is well enough to process the seats for the hinges. If this is not done, then subsequently the hinge will scratch and seize.

A small cut can be made in the head to secure the hair (although this is not necessary).

This is how the ideal hinge should look like, which must be sanded with sandpaper of different fractions.

Again we try to put all the details together.

For the primer, a water-based emulsion is used and acrylic lacquer. Painted details acrylic paint. The most convenient way to do this work is with the help of tubes for cocktails, on which you need to “plant” all the details.

After everything dries at this stage, all the bulges must be tinted with pink dry pastel, which must first be ground into flour.

After that, you can varnish all the details, silky-gloss or matte to your taste.
Now our doll can be revived, showing all your imagination, paint the face.

To fix the hair, use the glue moment and cotton swab to keep the glue from sticking to your hands.

Work on it takes a lot of time, which can be calculated in months: you need to mold the body, work out the anatomy, fit the hinges into the anatomy of the body so that they look harmonious and work well. Further work is already underway on the image of the doll - sculpting the face, hands, painting, wig and clothes.

A miniature in terms of work is no different from a regular-sized doll. Unless greater accuracy and accuracy of movements are required, especially when working on the face, feet and hands of the doll.

Sculpting brushes

A special baked plastic is often used to make a miniature articulated doll.fimoPuppenminiature, it has increased strength, excellent memory, and after complete baking of the parts, it acquires a certain degree of elasticity. This plastic is quite intense in color, which does not always fit the intended image, so in my last work I used plasticfimoporcelain.

I start sculpting the hands of a hinged doll by forming blanks for both hands. To do this, I form two parts from plastic in the form of a “spade” (photo 1), with a handle for which we will hold the part in the process of work, and with a flattened end, which I cut into 4 parts with manicure scissors (photo 2) - these will be fingers. Further, I roll each part into a “sausage” (photo 3), while they become thinner and stretched. It is necessary to ensure that these parts do not come off the base. Focusing on the face of the doll (you can draw a diagram for the hand in advance), I determine the length of the fingers, separate the excess and narrow each finger.

After that, I give the approximate desired position to the fingers (photo 4.5) and make a semi-baked detail. For each plastic, taking into account the peculiarities of the stove, its own temperature is selected. I use an airgel and half-bake the parts for 10 minutes at 95 degrees (without preheating).

If for the usual size of a pupa a handle can be molded immediately or fingers can be molded separately and then inserted into the palm, then when working with miniature pens, I act by cutting off the excess. With the very tip of the mock-up knife, I, very carefully, cut off everything that seems superfluous to me - I give relief to my fingers, refine their curves from the inside and outside (photo 6). The blade must be sharp. After the first semi-baking, you need to act especially carefully, then the plastic will be a little stronger and it will be easier to work. Then I add plastic (gluing with a stack) where it seems necessary to me - for example, the phalanges of the fingers on the outside, a hint of tendons on the back of the hand, etc. (photo 7). I'm making a half-bake again. This process is repeated until the desired result is achieved. I also level the surface with a knife blade - I make scraping movements (away from me), while the blade is located at an angle to the surface of about 30-40 degrees (photo 8).

After 4 fingers are ready, I refine the shape of the brush and work on the palm - I form pads (cut out, sculpt) and apply the main lines to the palm with the tip of the blade. Then I sand the brush with fine sandpaper (1000 disp). Now I can form thumb. I stick a piece of plastic, at the same time forming a corresponding tubercle on the palm (photo 9,10), and work further, as well as with other fingers.

Next, I put small scratches on the phalanges of the fingers on the back of the hand and form the nails. In contrast to working on nails for the usual size of dolls (the shape of the nail is indicated, the layer on the nail is cut off with an increase in the thickness of the cut closer to the nail hole, closer to the end of the finger, the plastic is cut off on the sides of the indicated nail - thereby the nail plate rises) in miniature is quite simple cut off the top of the finger to the designated place - this must be done very carefully.

After that, I apply quite a bit of oil on my hand with a brush.Sculpey, I let it lie down for about 5 minutes - the plastic surface softens a little and this allows you to smooth out the remaining roughness, paying attention to the places between the fingers (we smooth it with a brush). I make a half-bake, after which I cut off the tail (photo 11), for which it was so convenient to hold my hand in the process of work and form a hinge.

Cutouts in the feet and hands, insertion of jumpers

The slot in the hinge affects the freedom of movement of the part, so you need to determine the extreme points of the slot. To do this, I put the foot to the shin and mark on the hinge the extreme points in the maximum position (photo 12.13) - the extreme point is marked on the line mentally drawn through the center of the shin (this is how the elastic will pass).

At the marked extreme points, I drill holes with a drill (1mm diameter). At the same time, unlike drilling slots in the rest of the doll's hinges, the direction of the drill does not go to the center of the hinge, but slightly lower (photo 14). This is done because a jumper will pass through the center of the hinge (photo 15), for which the elastic will cling, for this it is necessary that the holes of the extreme points meet just below the jumper. Next, I drill a hole with the same drill from the side of the foot, passing through the center of the hinge (photo 15), while I control the exit of the drill from the part, covering it with my finger, this allows me to more accurately cope with this task. Then I cut a slot (photo 16) - to facilitate cutting, you can drill another intermediate point (you need to make sure that all the holes pass in the same plane).

I make cuts in the hands in the same way (photo 17,18).

Then I insert jumpers. I make them from knitting wire with a diameter of 1mm, which is very well suited for holes drilled with a drill of the same diameter. To do this, I bite off a piece of wire with wire cutters, a little less than the length of the hole itself, so that the edges of the wire remain inside the hinge.

When working with a regular sized articulated doll, super glue is usually dropped into the holes with wire, but this is not necessary for a miniature articulated doll, since the elastic is not so tight. I use the slightly flattened end of the jumper to secure the wire inside the hinge - the end is slightly wider than the hole and sharp enough to cut into the plastic as the wire is pushed in (photo 19). After that, I cover the holes with the edges of the jumper with plastic and make a half-bake.

Next, I tint the articulated doll with oil and make the final bake, according to the characteristics of the plastic. At the last stage of complete baking, you can slightly briefly (2-3 minutes) increase the temperature for strength (requires a preliminary test on a piece of plastic). I take out the parts when the plastic has completely cooled down. After that, I add accents with pastels and paint the face with watercolor pencils and fix with a fixative (photo 20,21).

Assembling the doll

Even at the stage of semi-baking, I drill holes under the eyes from the inside of the doll’s head (photo 22) - (such drills of different diameters are sold in jewelry stores).

To fix the eyes, I use a special wax, from which I form "donuts" and put them on the eyes (photo 23), then I make sure that the center of the eye remains clean (shiny). I insert the prepared eyes into the head (photo 24), using tweezers if necessary, and crush the wax. I set the look of the doll (photo 25)

To stretch the arms, I make a spandex loop without a braid, the length of which is slightly longer than the length of the stretched parts (photo 26) (the length of the loop is determined empirically, depending on the elasticity of the elastic band). Using thin copper wire(from telephone wire) I draw a loop under the jumper in the brush (photo 27). It turns out a loop folded in half, that is, an elastic band in 4 layers (photo 28). Further, the 2 ends of the loop are combined with wire and pulled through the forearm and shoulder (photo 28).

The stretched elastic band is fixed with a toothpick. Both hands are pulled with a wire into the chest and pulled into the central hole, where they are fixed with toothpicks (photo 29).

Usually when stretching hands big dolls hooks are used, which at one end cling to a jumper in the hand, and at the other end to a loop of elastic, and the elastic is pulled through the sternum from one hand to the other. The elastic band is pre-adjusted, which provides a good stretch. But in miniature dolls, to use hooks, you would have to make fairly wide cuts in the hands, which would not be very beautiful. Just tying the elastic in the center of the sternum so that there is a good stretch will also fail due to the size. Therefore, I use a hook that connects two pre-adjusted loops in the sternum (photo 30).

The stretching of the legs is also carried out on loops, as well as the stretching of the arms. In this case, it is a little more difficult to thread the loops through the jumper - I insert the loop with tweezers under the jumper, and on the reverse side I pry it with a needle (photo 31.32). Further, the loop folded in half is pulled sequentially through the details of the leg, torso, sternum and is brought out through the neck, where it is fixed with a toothpick (photo 33).