home » Needlework » How to sew bast shoes from burlap. How to weave bast shoes: a master class on weaving paper vines

How to sew bast shoes from burlap. How to weave bast shoes: a master class on weaving paper vines

Traditional crafts are gaining well-deserved popularity. As a rule, these are colorful products filled with positive energy. In the manufacture of traditional dolls, costumes and handicrafts, such an element as bast shoes is often used. Needlewomen resort to various tricks to get the most realistic products, including trying to weave bast shoes for a doll. A master class describing the step-by-step steps for making traditional shoes from improvised materials will help with this.

Since ancient times, shoes have been made from durable materials popular in the area. For example, weaving bast shoes from bast (soft bark) in Rus' has become a traditional way. If we talk about souvenirs, then you can make shoes for crafts more easy ways. For example, as a material, you can choose ordinary gas tubes t or dense wrapping paper, rag tape or twine.

Masters had their own subtleties of weaving traditional shoes, which were passed down from generation to generation. Shoe making was a special craft, only a few people owned it. Lapotnikov was valued and respected.

Making do-it-yourself bast shoes for a child as part of a brownie, Emelya, or as part of a traditional composition is quite simple. Below are master classes that will allow even novice craftswomen to cope with the task.

Making rag bast shoes

You can make bast shoes for a costume, for example, Emelya, from rag strips. This technique is suitable for needlewomen who know how to crochet. To weave such bast shoes you will need:

Things that have served their purpose (old T-shirts, dresses), preferably plain: for example, yellow or beige.
Big hook.
Scissors.
Needle.
Threads to match the fabric.

A new piece of fabric 1x1.5 meters can also be used as a material. Use better material, which does not “muffle” on sections. It can be nylon, knitwear or cotton fabric. So, a master class on making:

For the manufacture of such bast shoes, an experienced craftswoman will need no more than an hour of free time. The result is a unique product created by one's own hands.

Artificial bast

Since bast weaving is a complex process and requires special skills, it is more expedient to weave bast shoes (the scheme, by the way, is similar) from newspaper tubes. Paper may well become a decorative substitute for birch bark.

This option is ideal for making decorative bast shoes as an element for a traditional composition. So, a step-by-step manufacturing master class:

Such bast shoes can be used as an independent product or as part of a composition or shoes for a traditional doll. The product is covered with paint. It is better to use on an acrylic basis, after which they are varnished.

Bast shoes are not only a part of traditional compositions, but also beautiful amulet for home or car.

Fantasy and skillful hands will allow you to create a unique product that will charge its owners with the positive energy and love of the master.

sewing lovers folk dolls in the Slavic style or domovyat as a talisman for the home, they often wonder how to weave bast shoes for a doll. If you are also interested in this topic, I suggest viewing two photos of the master class that will help you easily cope with the work.

How to weave bast shoes from straws or newspaper tubes

Bast shoes can be woven both from straw and from more accessible material - from newspaper or magazine tubes. We are watching master classes, but first I want to charge you with positive, cheer you up and invite you to visit the entertainment site razvlekalov.com. Here you will find funny pictures, demotivators, jokes, comic stories, anecdotes and much more on a variety of topics)

Weave open bast shoes without a back from newspaper tubes

You just need to prepare for work:

- newspaper;
- a pencil of medium thickness;
- stationery knife;
- PVA glue;
- knitting needle;
- stain and white acrylic paint;
- linen thread for decoration.

1. Unfold the newspaper and arrange the sheets of newspaper across the long side, fold in half and cut the fold line with a knife.
2. Take a pencil and start winding a sheet of newspaper around it from the top right corner. Do not overtighten, it is necessary that the lower end of the tube is slightly narrower than the upper. At the end of the twist, secure the sheet with glue so that it does not unwind.
3. Now insert the three tubes one into the other, fixing them with glue. You will get a fairly long working tube. You will need 5 of these.

4. Arrange these long tubes as shown in the photo and start weaving according to them. I tried to show how the weaving of the right and left bast shoes begins. It is the beginning of the laying of the tubes that determines what the bast shoes will be like.
5. Continue weaving according to the photos. When weaving is completed, fill in the excess ends of the tubes with a knitting needle, threading them along the entire length of the sole, thereby weaving the second layer.
6. I painted bast shoes with OAK water stain, then gently applied white with a dry brush. acrylic paint thin layer and messy strokes. This creates the effect of wear and antiquity.

7. After painting, it is necessary to apply a primer - a mixture of PVA glue with water (3: 2), after the bast shoes dry, they will become strong. You can cover them if you wish. acrylic varnish, but if you intend to use them as a decor, then this is not necessary.
8. With the help of a linen thread and a needle, you can wrap the edges of the bast shoes, so they will become warmer and dearer.

These bast shoes were woven as a gift to the birthday man for good luck and happiness by craftswoman Kanzi
For bast shoes, the author used newspaper tubes, painted with water stain "Oak", jute rope and white construction acrylic paint

This is how the shoes looked without aging with acrylic paint

The process of weaving bast shoes, like any object, begins with a bookmark (a house is laid, a garden is laid ...). To lay a five-piece bast shoe, you need to take the five ends of the bast and lay them out with the bast * side up on the desktop or just on your knee so that, mutually intertwining in the middle of the length at an angle of 90 °, they form the basis of the future bast shoe (Fig. 5). We unfold the workpiece so that the ends are located 3 x 2 away from us and 2 x 3 towards ourselves. (For the second bast shoe, we put the workpiece in a mirror image with respect to the workpiece for the first bast shoe.) Next, the right of the three upper ends (in the figure it is numbered 3 ) bend over and intertwine with two adjacent ends. Now we have got the location of the ends from ourselves 2 x 2, and towards ourselves 3 x 3 (Fig. 6). To form the corners of the heel, we bend the outermost of the three ends on the left and right alternately inward at a right angle and weave them: the right one to the left (Fig. 7), the left one to the right. As a result, a heel is formed with one knuckle* in the middle (Fig. 8). We bend the ends right and left from ourselves (the right ones - away from ourselves, the left ones - towards ourselves), we twist them with the rest (Fig. 9). So the heel is completely formed with five chickens along the border. All ends are now located five to the left and right to themselves (Fig. 10). To align the border, we put the heel on the block and alternately tighten the ends.

We continue laying the bast shoes, bending the ends either to the left or to the right and weaving them with the rest: left - to the right, right - to the left. In order for the bast shoes to differ into right and left, for the first bast shoes we bend the right ends to the outer, and the left - to the inner side of the sole (Fig. 11), for the second - vice versa. The location of the chickens on the head also depends on this.

After five heel chickens, we count them along the hem of the sole. Usually in the sole there are seven or eight kurts. In the process of laying the bast shoes, we constantly tighten the ends, compacting the wattle fence, and check the length of the sole along the block. We also make sure that the number of ends on the left and on the right is always five. The denser you lay the bast shoes, the more durable and tricky * it will turn out. This means it will last longer. And he will look more noble.

When the sole reaches the desired length (on the block this corresponds to the corners of the head), we begin to form the head, paying attention to the fact that there are five ends on both sides. The laying of the firebrand is somewhat similar to the laying of the heel. We bend the third end on the right side so that we get an acute angle, and weave through two adjacent ones in left side. We also weave the other two ends on the right side. It turned out the right corner of the firebrand (Fig. 12). Three of its ends look inside the head, two - out. Similarly, we make the left corner of the head: we bend the middle of the five left ends at an acute angle, weave it through two adjacent ends to the right side, then we do the same with the other two left ends. As a result, three ends of the left corner look inside the head, two ends look out. We twist together three middle ends. We again got five ends on the left and right (Fig. 13).

We put the bast shoes completely on the block, tighten the ends, compacting the head. We do this with the help of a stump.

Next, we make the border of the head. We put the bast shoe on our knees with the head towards us. The left of the five right ends, bending away from us, weave to the right through all four ends and pass the fence under the chicken (Fig. 14). We also bend the next end away from ourselves, weave it to the right now through three ends and pass the wattle fence under the next chicken. Weave the third end through the two remaining ends and also pass under the chicken. After that, on the right side, two ends go along the sole, and three look in the other direction (Fig. 15).

Similarly, we make the left side of the border of the firebrand. But here we bend the extreme right end onto ourselves and weave it to the left through all four ends. We do the same with the next two ends. Now, on the left side, the ends are located, as on the right. We pull them up. Bast shoes laid down (Fig. 16). We start weaving it.

At the two ends running along the sole, we leave alone for a while. In the future, they will go to education and to tighten the eyes.

Three right and three left ends, passed under the soles of the kurts, look in different directions. We weave them along the sole with the second trace (Fig. 17). Then the lower of the three ends directed towards the firebrand, we bring it to the center of the firebrand and make a chicken. To do this, we bend the end back, tuck it, forming a loop, and pass it under the cell of the same track along which it walked (Fig. 18). We let the end that changed direction to weave the sole (Fig. 19).

When the ends reach the hem of the sole, we bring each under our chicken, bend it, as if repeating the hem, and skip it in the other direction. It does not matter whether the bast side of the bast is directed outward or inward. When weaving the third track, it is important that the bast side is always outward, as it is stronger than the subcortical one. Here we make turns at the level of the second cells from the border, without bending the bast when changing direction. When the ends end, we put on the basts remaining during the workpiece, and weave further. The direction of the ends and the weaving cells themselves suggest where to go. As a result of weaving, the foot is compacted, it becomes more elastic. Bast shoes are considered solid if they are woven in three tracks.

At the end of the weaving of the sole, we draw out eyelets on both sides, for which we alternately twist one of the two ends located along the sole (the one that is stronger and better) into a bundle, rotating inward, towards the block (this is a prerequisite for both the right and left eyes). So that the twist is cylindrical and does not fold during the wearing of the bast shoes, we insert a narrow strip of bast into it. Partially twisting the left ear, wrap it around the second end, tighten this end, bring the head to the center of the second chicken, then weave a little along the sole (due to the two ends that formed the chickens, the head is strengthened at the corners, and this is enough for strength, and here the sole requires weaving no less than two traces).

Approximately in the middle of the distance from the heel to the head, we pierce a hole in the border with a stump and pass the ear end through it from the inside (please pay attention to this, because when we tie a knot on the heel itself, this end must be threaded not from the inside, but from the outside). They threaded it, twisted it in a loop, pulled it up, and it turned out an eyelet. We twist the ear end again and lead it to the corner of the heel. We pull it up, thread it from the outside through the hole made by the stump in the heel border, and tie it in a knot. The left eye turned out (Fig. 20). We do the same on the right.

After that, we twist both ends of the eyes in one direction (away from ourselves), we twist them together two or three times, and a heel, or ruffle, is formed (Fig. 21). We put the ends from the heel with the bast side out onto the weaving of the sole.

We turn all the ends braided along the third track at the edge of the sole, pass through two or three cells and cut off.

Bast shoes are ready. We remove it from the block, prying it with a kochetyg in the area of \u200b\u200bthe spot. In the same way, we weave the second bast shoe, remembering that the chickens on his little head should look the other way. wove? Got a couple. And here in Kermisi they said: there are shoes. It remains to tie the frills to the bast shoes, wrap the legs in footcloths in the summer, onuchs in the winter, twist the frills crosswise up to the knee - and good luck, lashers! Of course, you won’t walk along the street, but your loved ones in new year's eve you can have fun. As long as you dress appropriately. And even sing a ditty: “Oh, my bast shoes, cool little heads. Whoever weaved them, picked them, to the forehead. ”

GLOSSARY FOR THE ARTICLE Lyko is a young bast, a fibrous, fragile underbark from any tree (bast under the bark, pulp under it, blon under it, young wood).

Komel - the lower part of a tree, plant, hair, feather adjacent to the root; thick end of the log.

Lutokha, lutoshka - sticky, from which the bark is removed, the bast is torn off (proverb: “A goal is like a lutoshka, a barefoot one is like a goose”; a riddle: “I will throw from a flea, will it grow from a lutoshka?” Answer: hemp). Lutoshki are also called skinny, dry legs.

Lopas - hayloft, hay dryer.

The deck is a large trough of rough finish.

Kochedyk is a flat curved bast awl. In different localities it was called differently: kochadyk, kodochig, cat, kostyg, kochetyg.

Bast - the inner part of the bark of young deciduous trees, as well as a piece, a strip of such bark, bast (used for making ropes, baskets, boxes, weaving matting, etc.). The bast is well removed in warm, damp, windy weather.

Zagnetka, zagnet, zagnivka - a recess in the hearth of a Russian stove, usually in its left part, where hot coals are raked.

Onucha - a piece of dense cloth, wrapped around the foot when wearing bast shoes or boots.

Obory - ropes woven in a special way, ties at bast shoes.

Obornik - a kind of loop formed by the ends of the eyes on the heel of the bast shoes, into which the ruffs were threaded.

Mochenets - flax or hemp soaked for processing. Raw hemp fiber after one lobe, crumpled and peeled, was used for twisting ropes, for picking bast shoes.

Hen - a decorative element in the form of a corner on the head of a bast shoe.

The bast side is the surface of the bast, which adjoins directly to the tree. Smooth and more durable in contrast to the subcrustal, rough.

Kurtsy - transverse basts, bent along the edges of the wattle fence. There can be up to ten chickens in the wattle fence.

Stubborn - tightly, soundly woven bast shoes.

Master class for parents.

“Although the bast shoe is good, in itself it is worth a penny. That's why it's not for nothing that there are a pair of bast shoes"

Purpose: Making rag bast shoes for Russian folk costume pupils of theatrical and folklore studio.

Target: creation of Russian traditional environment for joint activities of children and parents.

Tasks:

1. Contribute to the formation of the interest of children and their parents in the world of traditional Russian culture.

2. Enrichment of the subject-developing environment for theatrical activities.

To make bast shoes, you need to prepare:

▪ Fabric - jersey yellow color, about 1 meter long, 1.5 meters wide;

▪ Hook;

▪ Scissors;

▪ Thread with a needle.

Progress

Russian bast shoes are one of the most important symbols of traditional Russian life. Bast shoes - low shoes, common in Rus', woven from wood bast (linden, birch bark). The bast shoe was tied to the leg with laces twisted from bast. For a pair of bast shoes, it was necessary to peel off as many as three small sticks.

Mikhail Burchak's poem "Lapti":

Look at a pair of bast bast shoes,

They are worth a look, by the way.

In our age, among intricate things,

There are no shoes more ingenious and simpler.

You do not look down on the bast shoes,

Interrupting an intelligent conversation with annoyance.

Such bast shoes for many centuries,

Worn by our grandparents.

When your great-grandfather was a young man,

He loved his great-grandmother dearly.

Then he went on a date to her,

Not feeling bast shoes underneath.

In bast shoes, elegant and quiet,

She met her fiance

And he seemed to her in bast shoes

More beautiful than all earthly kings.

Do not miss happiness in a hurry.

Here's a good sign for you:

Happiness comes in bast sandals,

Leaves in lacquered boots.

You are not in a hurry, hand over the bast shoes to the museum,

Let at least a couple be in your house.

Be like a bast shoe, everyone is modest,

And invisible in its simplicity.

Although the bast shoe is good, in itself it is worth a penny.

That is why it is not for nothing that there are a pair of bast shoes.

And don't forget everyone:

Two bast shoes, but one way.

It is not so easy to buy bast shoes, not everyone can weave bast shoes from bast, and it is better to make them yourself, it is much more profitable and practical.

You can weave bast shoes from knitted fabric because it is soft and pliable.

Use scissors to cut strips of fabric about 1 centimeter.

Sew strips weave into one "thread".

To make a bast shoe of size 27, you need to crochet a chain of 13-15 air loops. Then the working thread is crocheted sequentially into each next loop of the chain and dragged working thread into the previous loop until you get a trace of the length you need.

We knit the resulting top of the toe of the bast shoes in a circle and fix the fabric. We knit the laces with an ordinary chain, we fix them on the “heel”.

One bast shoe is ready, we boldly proceed to the second, but we say “We don’t sip tea with bast shoes,” which means we are scientists, we don’t need to explain.

Bast shoes are beautiful, and most importantly unique, because they will be made by hand.

Bast shoes can be a wonderful gift for any holiday for lovers of Russian culture or foreign friends. This original look shoes can be made from a variety of materials, such as thread, crochet, knitting, burlap and even paper. Also, this craft is suitable for any theatrical circle as an element of a folk costume or as a decor for a wooden country house or balcony. In this master class, we will try to make traditional bast shoes with our own hands.

Folk shoes made of fabric

To properly make bast shoes from fabric, you will need:

yellow knitwear;
hook;
sharp scissors;
thread with a needle.

First you need to cut the fabric with scissors into strips, the width of which should be only 1 centimeter. Then sew all these stripes into one big one. To make bast shoes size 27 from fabric, you need to dial a chain of air loops (13-15 pieces).

Next, insert the working thread sequentially into each subsequent loop and stretch into the previous one to make a trace. Knit bast shoes in height with double crochets (about three rows) in the center of the product and make 5-6 air loops to connect the sides. Knit the resulting top in a circle and fasten the fabric. Knit the laces with a regular chain and fasten on the heel. Do the same for the second one.

Bast shoes are very soft and comfortable, so they are great for children.

Traditional from birch bark

Many centuries ago, birch bark was the only material thanks to which it was possible to make bast shoes for feet. So let's try to make practical birch bark sandals.

For manufacturing, birch bark 1 cm wide and clamping devices, for example, copper wire, are useful.

So, first you need to take the wire, make a clip and fold it in a cross. On the same basis, weave a rug of three strips of birch bark. To make the spout of the product, first you need to twist the first and second tape, then the third and second.

Related article: Elegant crochet shawl from square motifs

Then weave all the intersecting sections. Make two more corners. It is worth deciding which side will be on top and which will be on the bottom, based on which leg the product is woven on. For example, take the right bast shoe. Using ribbons 1 and 2, make the first corner on the side with two sections. Then, on the opposite side, also weave a symmetrical angle. Then weave all the intersecting strips.

Next, make an edge with the first or second tape to make it stronger, and skip them under several sections. If any of the ribbons has become very short, weave an additional one, thereby lengthening it. Next, insert the first ribbon into the weave, then tighten the inner one so that it is outside. Make another corner using the first and second strips. After that, weave an additional tape on the opposite side and continue the edge.

Then make the second corner and finish the heel. By the same principle, make a second bast shoe. In Rus', everyone knew how to make such bast shoes, but now preparation is needed for this. By a similar principle, you can also make bast shoes from a vine.

Unusual souvenir

Bast shoes can be made not only actual size, but also miniature, as a gift to loved ones. We need to work satin ribbons, bast shoes from which will look very cute.

Necessary materials for work:

cardboard;
silk fabric in the color of the ribbons;
satin ribbons (width - 1.2 cm, length - 3.5 m);
glue;
scissors;
needle;
threads in the color of the ribbon.

First of all, you need to cut out four symmetrical ovals from cardboard paper. Next, cut the ribbons a little longer than the blanks. Then glue them by the edges so that there are no gaps on the back side between the stripes. In the same way, cut out the transverse ribbons, passing them through the already glued ones before fixing, so that the squares come out. Cut off the nose of the bast shoes from two blanks and glue one in the same way as the sole. Cut a piece of silk fabric a little larger than the sole. Do the same for the nose.

Today we will talk about how to learn how to weave real bast shoes with your own hands at home. We will also consider the ancient technologies of weaving bast shoes with visual diagrams, illustrations and photos

Various material for making bast shoes was always at hand if there was a forest nearby. Usually bast shoes were woven from linden, elm, rakita, heather (bast) bast, less often - from willow bark (willows), as well as from birch bark (birch bark). Sometimes they were made from thin roots (roots), broken shabby ropes (kurpy, krutsy, chuni, whisperers), from horse manes and tails (hairs) and even from straw (straws).

The best is the bast from the bark of young, without a single sticky knot, 3-4 meters high and with a butt diameter of about 5 centimeters. Such trees usually grow in a thicket - densely, like reeds. You cut them down with a small hatchet at the root, bite a narrow ribbon with your teeth right at the butt and tear it off with a sharp movement.

The resulting narrow groove along the tree makes it possible to separate the bast tube from the lard*. Bast shoes made of lime bast are the most durable and wearable in any weather, bast shoes made of elm are beautiful, but only for dry weather, they were woven, as a rule, for women. Souvenir bast shoes are made from willow bast, they are not suitable for wearing.

The lyk tubes were harvested in the spring, during the period of sap flow, in in large numbers enough to weave bast shoes for the whole family for a year. "Not stocking up on bast, you walk in lumps." True, in winter you can also prepare bast, if you put freshly cut lime in the free spirit of a well-heated Russian stove, but this was an exception.

Bundles of bast pipes were stored in a dry place, as a rule, on lops*, right under the ridge, and before weaving they were soaked in a log* with water or in a river and rolled into wheelchairs. Ribbons 2.5-3 meters long and wide, corresponding to the size of the shoes, were cut from the gurneys. Usually, for women's bast shoes in sizes 36-38, the width of the ribbons was 16-18 millimeters, for children - less, for men - more. Each tape was sharpened from the ends.

Lychnye bast shoes were woven in 5-12 lines (or ends) on a block with a kochedyk *. Each strip of bast in the lapta was called a line. From the phrase "not every bast in a line", which meant that not every bast is suitable for weaving bast shoes, the saying "every bast in a line" went (that is, any mistake is imputed).

Bast shoes from five ends were called fives, from seven - sevens, from nine - nines. For a bast shoe-pyaterik, he took five ends of a bast (for a pair - twice as many), he tipped them, that is, he removed the bark, leaving the bast clean *. It was enough just to scrape off a young bast with a housekeeper knife. The weaving itself did not take much time. For a pair of bast shoes, the master needed three or four hours, no more.

Ready, still wet bast shoes, in order to remove fibers from them and to give them a specific aroma of a fire, were singeed over a fire. In the old days, this was done over a small fire built on a stoke *, right in front of the entrance to the furnace, or simply over a burning torch. The fibers quickly dried out and burned.

Everyday bast shoes were woven taking into account the time of year. In a respectable family, they hung in pairs in the entryway on a perch in constant readiness. So, for example, going to the mowing, the peasants put on bast shoes of rare weaving, in one or two tracks. In spring and autumn thaws, pads were attached to bast shoes, especially for children, with basts

We will need: a block of the appropriate size, a joint knife, a kochetyg, a bar for sharpening a knife and, of course, bast wheelers prepared in advance.

From a bast well soaked in water, we cut ten ends, clean them of scuffs and bumps, sharpen them on both sides and tsinuem.

The bast shoe consists of the following main parts: soles (wattle) with a border, little heads with chickens, eyes (ears, collars, temples) and a heel with a heel (Fig. 4).

We unfold the workpiece so that the ends are located 3 x 2 away from us and 2 x 3 towards ourselves. (For the second bast shoe, we put the workpiece in a mirror image with respect to the workpiece for the first bast shoe.) Next, the right of the three upper ends (in the figure it is numbered 3 ) bend over and intertwine with two adjacent ends. Now we have got the location of the ends from ourselves 2 x 2, and towards ourselves 3 x 3 (Fig. 6).

To form the corners of the heel, we bend the outermost of the three ends on the left and right alternately inward at a right angle and weave them: the right one to the left (Fig. 7), the left one to the right. As a result, a heel is formed with one turret in the middle (Fig. 8). We bend the ends right and left from ourselves (right - from ourselves, left - towards ourselves), we twist them with the rest (Fig. 9). So the heel is completely formed with five chickens along the border. All ends are now located five to the left and right to themselves (Fig. 10). To align the border, we put the heel on the block and alternately tighten the ends.

We continue laying the bast shoes, bending the ends either to the left or to the right and weaving them with the rest: left - to the right, right - to the left. In order for the bast shoes to differ into right and left, for the first bast shoe we bend the right ends to the outer, and the left - to the inner side of the sole (Fig. 11), for the second - vice versa. The location of the chickens on the head also depends on this.

After five heel urts, we count them along the hem of the sole. Usually there are seven or eight kurts in the sole. In the process of laying the bast shoes, we constantly tighten the ends, compacting the wattle fence, and check the length of the sole along the block. We also make sure that the number of ends on the left and on the right is always five. The tighter you lay the bast shoes, the more durable and tricky * it will turn out. This means it will last longer. And he will look more noble.

Three of its ends look inside the head, two - out. Similarly, we make the left corner of the head: we bend the middle of the five left ends at an acute angle, weave it through two adjacent ends to the right side, then we do the same with the other two left ends. As a result, three ends of the left corner look inside the head, two - out. We twist together three middle ends. We again got five ends on the left and right (Fig. 13).

We put the bast shoes completely on the block, tighten the ends, compacting the head. We do this with the help of a stump.

At the two ends running along the sole, we leave alone for a while. In the future, they will go to education and to tighten the eyes. Three right and three left ends, passed under the soles of the kurts, look in different directions. We weave them along the sole with the second trace (Fig. 17). Then the lower of the three ends directed towards the firebrand, we bring it to the center of the firebrand and make a chicken. To do this, we bend the end back, tuck it, forming a loop, and pass it under the cell of the same track along which it walked (Fig. 18). We let the end that changed direction to weave the sole (Fig. 19).

Here we make turns at the level of the second cells from the border, without bending the bast when changing direction. When the ends end, we put on the basts remaining during the workpiece, and weave further. The direction of the ends and the weaving cells themselves suggest where to go. As a result of weaving, the foot is compacted, it becomes more elastic. Bast shoes are considered solid if they are woven in three tracks.
At the end of the weaving of the sole, we draw out eyelets on both sides, for which we alternately twist one of the two ends located along the sole (the one that is stronger and better) into a bundle, rotating inward, towards the block (this is a prerequisite for both the right and left eyes). So that the twist is cylindrical and does not fold during the wearing of the bast shoes, we insert a narrow strip of bast into it.

Partially twisting the left ear, wrap it around the second end, tighten this end, bring the head to the center of the second chicken, then weave a little along the sole (due to the two ends that formed the chickens, the head is strengthened at the corners, and this is enough for strength, and here the sole requires weaving no less than two traces).

After that, we twist both ends of the eyes in one direction (away from ourselves), we twist them together two or three times, and a heel, or ward, is formed. We put the ends from the heel with the bast side out onto the weaving of the sole.

We turn all the ends braided along the third track at the edge of the sole, pass through two or three cells and cut off ..

side weaving
We turn the extreme upper bast at an angle of 90 degrees, weave it between the other three and weave the kochedyk along the insole. Attention at the first pick with a kochedyk: did you bring this bast to its place.

It should lie next to the bast that went to the other side of the heel and is also ready to intertwine with the other three and go to the insole. The second bast is also intertwined, but already between the two remaining and goes to the insole next to the first. And again, attention: in this place, the basts are trying to take someone else's line, jumping one forward.

The third bast is intertwined with the fourth and with the basts stretched from the toe on the sides and goes to the insole. The last bast is no longer intertwined with free ones, but with stretched ones from toe to heel. We are wielding a kochedyk. Having gone through all the basts on one side, we move on to the other.

We also sort everything out and weave along the insole to opposite sides. A second layer gradually grows on the sole of the shoe cover. The toe and heel are ready. But on the sides, the basts stretched obliquely remain not intertwined. To close up this "underpayment", it is necessary to weave another three or four basts. The necessary basts themselves came here and ask for a line. And if they ended prematurely and did not come, then they must be instructed.

Lyko is instructed, we will braid a new end. Stepping back two or three steps from the place where the short bast ends, a new one is threaded. Pulling the new end, try not to pull it out completely. We stop so that the tip of the new bast is hidden under the cage. Cut off the end of the short bark. The new bast will cover it. The increase in length will not be noticeable at all.

When we weave all the ends from edge to edge, we will figure out which bast goes where. First of all, let's put into action those ends that "ask" for unbraided sides. And of these, we will first give way to those that are aimed at the toe. Let's let them in one by one or two, no more. Weave them together over the foot of the foot, bending at a right angle, drive down. As a rule, this is enough for the complete manufacture of the sides. But if it’s suddenly not enough, we skip the third bast.
It remains to make the sock more beautiful and stronger, and for this we give a layer on the heel. The rest of the ends will come out on their own. They need only four, two on one side and two on the other. With a shortage of ends, we increase. We bend the ends brought to the toe and unfold to the right and left so that one line is obtained. The resulting scar and gives beauty to the shoe cover. The heel is made stronger by the second weave to a certain place with a turn to the right or left. Usually, the basic bast is no longer enough for this. New ones are introduced.

Dictionary of tools and materials:

Lyko is a young bast, a fibrous, fragile underbark from any tree (bast under the bark, pulp under it, blon under it, young wood).

Komel - the lower part of a tree, plant, hair, feather adjacent to the root; thick end of the log.

Lutokha, lutoshka - sticky, from which the bark was removed, the bast was torn off (proverb: "A goal is like a lutoshka, a barefoot one is like a goose"; a riddle: "I will throw from a flea, will it grow from a lutoshka?" Answer: hemp). Lutoshki are also called skinny, dry legs.

Lopas - hayloft, hay dryer.

The deck is a large trough of rough finish.

Kochedyk - a flat curved bast awl. In different localities it was called differently: kochadyk, kodochig, cat, kostyg, kochetyg.

Bast - the inner part of the bark of young deciduous trees, as well as a piece, a strip of such bark, a bast (used for making ropes, baskets, boxes, weaving matting, etc.). The bast is well removed in warm, damp, windy weather.

Zagnetka, zagnet, zagnivka - a recess in the hearth of a Russian stove, usually in its left part, where hot coals are raked.

Onucha - a piece of dense cloth, wrapped around the foot when wearing bast shoes or boots.
Obory - ropes woven in a special way, ties at bast shoes.

Obornik - a kind of loop formed by the ends of the eyes on the heel of the bast shoes, into which the ruffs were threaded.

Mochenets - flax or hemp soaked for processing. Raw hemp fiber after one lobe, crumpled and peeled, was used for twisting ropes, for picking bast shoes.

Hen - a decorative element in the form of a corner on the head of a bast shoe.

The bast side is the surface of the bast, which adjoins directly to the tree. Smooth and more durable in contrast to the subcrustal, rough.

Kurtsy - transverse basts, bent along the edges of the wattle fence. There can be up to ten chickens in the wattle fence.