How to reduce the size on a dress pattern. Correction of the finished pattern in size
Appreciated at all times. Now, when the store shelves are filled with a variety of sewing machines, and kiosks are full of bright fashion magazines, it's hard not to join this wonderful craft.
Beginning dressmakers are often faced with a situation where the chosen model of trousers is smaller than the required size.
To help yourself in this case, take a few simple steps.
How to increase the pattern of trousers?
The considered method of increasing the pattern is universal for all types and styles of clothing.
It allows you to correctly change the finished patterns if the required increase does not exceed two sizes.
Step 1
Prepare:
- A sheet of rolled tracing paper with dimensions: width = 1m, length = length of trousers +10 cm.
- Triangle, long and short rulers.
- Soft pencil, felt-tip pens.
- Several flat weights for the convenience of working with tracing paper.
Step 2
Lay out a magazine insert on a wide, flat surface. Find the contours of big size desired model and examine them carefully.
You will see that:
- on the sheet there are patterns for several of the same model, which are separated from each other by small distances. They differ in the type of boundary line (dotted line, dots, etc.);
- the pattern has well-defined corners, straight and rounded lines, auxiliary designations;
- in some areas the contours of the patterns different sizes diverge significantly, and in other places converge to one point.
Step 3
Spread tracing paper on top of the liner sheet and secure with weights to prevent it from shifting.
Start working with one half of the trousers:
- Connect with a line all the points of the given dimensions, indicating the upper right corners of the patterns. Measure a segment equal to the distance between adjacent corner points. Let's denote it with the letter A. If the required size starts from 48 and above, then the value of A increases by one and a half times.
- From the extreme point on the resulting line, set aside segment A as many times as the dimensions need to be changed. Mark with a marker.
- Do the same with all extreme points.
Step 4
The most crucial stage is drawing the contour of curved lines:
- Mentally break the existing line into sections no longer than 3 cm. In especially rounded places, the step frequency should not exceed 1 cm.
- Using a triangle to each point, restore the perpendicular and on the resulting line determine the value A for this section. Set aside the required amount of A on a perpendicular segment and determine the location of the new point.
- Perform this operation sequentially along the entire length of the back and front seams, codpiece, pockets and other details provided for by the style.
The more intermediate points are indicated, the more correctly the pattern will be built, and the product will be impeccably
Step 5
Define new lines of side and internal seams in the same way.
Step 6
Circle the outline of the new pattern with a felt-tip pen. Apply the designation of the shared thread. Change the position of the knee line marks and other auxiliary signs in the manner described above. Cut out the pattern.
Follow the same steps for the other half.
Attach the resulting patterns. If it turns out that , then follow the next step.
Step 7
Lay the patterns on the table, joining the protruding points of the ischial arch. On the front half of the trousers, mark three auxiliary lines:
- The first passes through the middle of the segment connecting the upper cut and the lower point of the curved line of the median seam.
- The second is 15 cm above the knee line.
- The third is located 15 cm below the knee line.
- Using a long ruler, extend them to the pattern of the back half.
Step 8
Cut the paper along the obtained auxiliary segments and paste additional strips of the required width.
The lengthening of the pattern along the first line should not exceed 1 cm.
The skills of changing ready-made patterns help out not only beginner dressmakers, but also experienced craftsmen. This allows you to save time and use interesting design solutions from well-known fashion designers. Start with simple styles classic trousers, and soon you will submit to the most interesting and sophisticated outfits. The ability to work with ready-made patterns creates the basis for mastering the design of clothing.
Hello my good ones!
I hope that the past tips were useful to you, so I will continue to give you my little tips. I myself, when I was just starting to learn “sewing” (how long ago it was!), Greedily caught every advice of experienced dressmakers, their secrets in tailoring technology, “chips”, as it is now fashionable to say. In general, I loved and love to study, to learn something new every day - which I wish you too!
How to resize Maybe increase or decrease? Perhaps your height is not the one shown in the pattern of the model you have chosen? Maybe you are satisfied with the size, but not satisfied with the fullness?
There is a way out of this situation, that is, the size of the pattern, you can reduce or increase as you wish. One thing only needs to be taken into account that changing the pattern of a model of a complex style can change, distort the model itself, that is, as a result of your manipulations with the pattern, in the end, you can sew something completely different from what you wanted to sew.
Patterns of simple shapes can easily be changed by 1-2 sizes, or rather, you can reduce them by 2 sizes, but increase them even by 4. Look at my drawings (I'm sorry - they didn't turn out very well) and let's start cutting patterns. First, let's deal with this issue using the example of a one-piece dress pattern.
- First, you need to draw a vertical line with a felt-tip pen (look at the direction of the shared thread marked on the pattern) in the middle of each piece of paper pattern you have.
- Then cut the parts along the line you have marked and move them carefully to the distance you need (if you need to increase the pattern) or lay them with a fold (if you reduce the pattern)
- How much - a little or a lot to push or lay? Here you need to focus on your individual measurements. I do it very simply. For example, I take the measure of the widest place of my POb figure. (half circumference of the hips), divide in half. From the result obtained, I subtract the measurement of the pattern at the level of the hips and by this value I expand or lay the pattern detail in the fold.
- Now it remains to carefully connect the new parts (I connect them with adhesive tape) and transfer the parts of the pattern with new sizes to another sheet of paper, aligning the contours of the pattern. It is also necessary to make the necessary changes along the line that indicates the neckline - increase it or, on the contrary, make it smaller, but always remember that it would be better to remove excess fabric at the first fitting. If the pattern has a chest recess, change it to 0.9 cm as well, but the recess on the back does not change.
It will be a little more difficult to increase or decrease a pattern with very curved edges.
- To keep the existing shape, you need to draw more vertical lines, for example - 3.
- In the same way, push the cut parts to the desired distance and fix with tape. By the way, here you can model. If you want the okat, the head of the future dress to be more magnificent, more voluminous - move it more towards the top of the pattern. If you want the bottom of the sleeve to be narrower, reduce the distance at the bottom of the sleeve.
- Now it remains for you to connect the contour of the future pattern with a smooth line, and then fixed, new form transfer the patterns to a new sheet of paper. Attention - do not forget about the increase.
It is also not difficult to change the details of the pattern of trousers, as well as skirts (the principle for a waist product is the same).
- If we talk about trousers, then to increase or decrease height, draw horizontal lines on the details of the pattern: the first is at the level of the hips, the second is at the level of the knee. Having cut along the marked lines, proceed in the same way with the pattern of a one-piece dress - move apart or, conversely, lay the folds to the distance you need.
- The length of the skirt usually changes along the bottom of the pattern or along the yoke line + along the hip line by 0.5 cm.
- To add to the fullness - draw vertical lines (as in the figure) and do everything the same as you did before, that is, push or lay the folds.
- Change the length of the product along the bottom of the pattern, and move the pockets, if they are provided in the pattern, by 1.0 - 1.2 cm.
And the last thing - be sure at the end of all the work, check the correctness of all the changes you made, comparing the resulting pattern with the one that was at the beginning. On a new pattern, check all measurements, comparing them with your measurements, not forgetting about allowances. Difficult? I think no. Dare and good luck!
There are situations when you really like the bodice from one sample of the model, and the skirt from another. What to do in this situation?
For those who want to learn how to adjust ready-made patterns from fashion magazines to their figure, I have prepared a video. Using the example given in the video, you can adjust any pattern of the shoulder piece for yourself. Good luck everyone!
What if you need to reduce or enlarge the pattern of the model you like according to your size?
For example, when the pattern designer did not make a kit for your size, or you do not have a standard figure (for example, the bottom of one size and the top of another) or there are other reasons. To do this, there are ways to adjust the patterns. A lot of them. I will talk about one of them in more detail.
In professional language, the method that I will talk about is called gradation in a proportionally calculated way using pre-calculated increments. I will not clog the article with design terms, focusing on the fact that the material is read by tailors and sewing lovers of different levels of training, and I will try to state everything as clearly as possible. But, nevertheless, the topic of breeding patterns is quite complicated, so please be patient.
SCHEMES OF CHANGING PATTERNS (LEKAL) BY SIZE.
First you need to understand that changing the pattern from size to size occurs while maintaining the interdimensional interval. In simple terms, this means that each size differs from the previous one by exactly 2 cm (according to Cr, the half-girth of the chest, since the pattern is usually built on half the figure) 42r, 44r, 46r ... and this interval with an increase or decrease in the pattern must be kept along the chest line. It is also necessary to take into account and maintain the intervals along the waistline (up to 52 rubles is 2 cm, then 3 cm) and along the hips (up to 54 rubles - 2 cm, from 56 rubles - 2.5 cm). This rule is for those who change the pattern of the model within the standard sizes.
On the details of the pattern, 2 base lines are set, which remain motionless and make changes relative to them.
Back - chest line
- line tangent to armhole
Shelf - chest line
- line tangent to armhole
Sleeve - sleeve width line under the armhole
- a line connecting the upper and lower ends of the front roll.
Pants, front and back halves
- seat line
- fold line
- hip line
- the line of the middle of the front or rear panels
Now, having established the main lines, you can proceed directly to changing the patterns (pattern details). To do this, you need to arm yourself with the diagrams below, according to which, and make adjustments. I remind you that changing the pattern by more than 2-3 sizes leads to an error and changes the final result not in better side. In order to reduce the pattern by size, you need to use the increments from the diagrams for each changing position of the point with a minus sign, i.e. in reverse order.
Adjustment of patterns from size to size.
The first scheme for increasing (reducing) the basic pattern-base of the skirt from size to size for standard sizes.
Increase (decrease) of the basic pattern-base.
It is easy to check whether the intervals between sizes have been preserved by adding up the increments in the area of the chest line. 0.5+0.3+0.3+0.9=2cm.
Enlargement (decrease) of the sleeve pattern.
Enlargement (reduction) of the pattern of trousers.
If you need to adjust the pattern in accordance with the growth, use the diagrams below.
ADJUSTMENT OF PATTERNS FOR GROWTH.
I made all the schemes on the basis of the Gradation of patterns in the EMKO SEV system. WOMEN'S CLOTHING. They are designed only for basic patterns-basics, and this is understandable, because it is impossible to make schemes for all existing styles of clothing. The principle remains simple
- firstly: the difference between sizes, heights is preserved
- secondly: the increments are distributed in proportion to the sections of the structure.
Another such moment, mostly larger increments are attributed to those parts of the pattern where freedom of movement is needed (armhole, back in the armhole area, etc.)
If any of you are interested in delving into the study of the issue of reproduction (change) of patterns, then you can do this by exploring the topic of the Unified Method for Designing CMEA Clothing (EMKO CMEA). I, on the other hand, tried to describe this method in a concise, simplified form, making allowance for the fact that our readers make clothes for an individual figure, and have the opportunity to take measurements and compare them with standard sizes, thereby checking the conformity of the pattern.
It is impossible to compare the sizes taken from the figure with the sizes on the corresponding parts of the pattern, because when developing the model, an increase in freedom of fitting is taken into account. Therefore, if you still compare your measurements with a pattern, keep this in mind!
In general, if you approach the issue of adjusting a pattern, reducing (increasing) its size, you need to think logically. If, for example, your size in the upper part of the figure corresponds to a typical size 46, and the bottom is 48 or even 50, so as not to buy two patterns and splice them at the waist (this is also possible, as an option), you can purchase one pattern of size 46 and using the diagrams from this lesson, change only the lower part of it.
ADJUSTING THE PATTERN OF THE DRESS, CONSIDERING THE FEATURES OF THE FIGURE.
With a change in pattern in size, we figured it out. Now, I want to talk a little about something else, when the figure is not standard.
In this case, of course, it is better to make individual patterns, just for you. For example, model them on the basis of our basic patterns, built to your measurements. You can build them using basic pattern generators.
However, what if you still want to correct the finished pattern?
In preparation for the article, I visited many sites and forums on the topic of adjusting patterns, and a flurry of questions to the authors made me understand that the topic is very relevant. It is not possible to answer everything, but if in this lesson I can answer at least the main ones, I will be glad.
So, you went to our site, and you liked the model, for example - this one:
And you wanted to buy a pattern, but your figure does not fit into the dimensional typology, because it's true - each of us is unique! What to do? Is it possible to refuse an update? Let's try to solve the problem.
We will consider specific example. On the page with the description of the dress, click on the Show button dimensional grid, where we choose the closest size and height to your figure. (I will choose 44 p. height 164, my figure is between 44 and 46 p. in terms of parameters.) A plate with dimensional characteristics corresponding to this size falls out. For convenience, you can rewrite on a piece of paper in two columns, and in the third, opposite each typical value, write your measurements.
We also need to know the amount of allowance for freedom of fit for a given silhouette. The values are in the table (but they can also be calculated - measure the sections of the structure and subtract the values of the dimensional features from the resulting values).
Where Pg is an increase in the half-girth of the chest, Fri - to the half-girth of the waist, Pb - the hips, Pshs - to the width of the back, Pshg - to the width of the shelf, Pdts - an increase in the length of the back, Pspr - to the freedom of the armhole, Pshgor - to the neck.
We select from the table the values - dress, tight fit. Since, our dress model is quite adjacent to the figure. We write down on a piece of paper with our measurements - the main ones. Here's what happened:
Let's get down to the most interesting part - in the printed patterns of the selected model, we will measure the main sections of the structure and, taking into account the increases mentioned above, compare them with our measurements plus the increases.
We have: insufficient volume in
- chest area - 1 cm
- waist 4.2 cm
- on the hips 2 cm
- along the length of the front 0.6 cm
- in the girth of the shoulder (arm) 2.6 cm
Now let's proceed directly to the adjustment of the pattern.
Bodice.
It is necessary to add 0.5 cm to the side seams to compensate for the missing size in the chest area and partly in the waist. And also, let's add 0.6 cm in the length of the front. Let's check the length of the side sections of the back and shelves, they should be equal. After the changes made, the length of the armhole has increased, this is in our favor, because. by the standards of our arm, we have more than a typical one and we will have to change the width of the sleeve, and therefore the armhole.
The previous steps gave us an increase in the waist of 1 cm. It is necessary to increase it by another 3.2 cm. I propose to reduce the solutions of the waist darts and add 0.6 cm to the side ones, but only in the waist area.
The bottom part of the dress remains. We increase the volume of the waist on the skirt pattern by adding 1.1 cm to the side seams and reducing the openings of the tucks (folds). At the same time, we increase the pattern along the hips by 1 cm at each side seam. It remains only to check the pairing of the tucks on the bodice and skirt, so that when combined they fall exactly to each other, if you need to correct
So we changed the dress pattern to fit our figure, I hope that my advice will be useful to you.
Hello Nina!
When you start sewing, a sewing magazine is not a great help, because even with it you feel your insecurity in your abilities.
Now I will write what I do and what you can do to make the cut clothes fit you.
So we arm ourselves with a centimeter tape, a pencil and a sheet and an assistant (some measurements cannot be taken on our own).
Opening the size range of the magazine
Closer women's sizes look like this
Even if your height is 168 cm, then the parameters of your body may not correspond to one of the sizes at all.
Your actions:
You look at the first drawing and measure your body according to the examples provided.
If you are shorter or taller, be sure to pay attention to the length of your back!
My parameters with a height of 184 differ from those in the table so that I have to adjust the pattern by + 2 cm above the waist and + 2 cm below the waist at the level of the hips.
What does it look like? And like this
The third and fourth drawings show us how we can adjust the pattern for a height of 172cm. These are sizes 72-84 in Burda. If you need to reduce the pattern, you glue the pattern with an overlap at the cuts.
I do not have a large shoulder, and in general a thin top, I do not make adjustments in the armhole.
I also increase the sleeve by 2 cm.
How do you figure it out? My back length is 2 cm longer than the table, from here I know how much I need to increase the upper half. This can be clearly seen if you attach the pattern to yourself.
The arm is also 2 cm longer than the table value, so I cut and lengthen it in the elbow area.
How to cut? Perpendicular to the share (arrow on the cutout).
What to lengthen? I use a checkered sheet, convenient so as not to waste time measuring centimeters.
What it looks like:
It was a coat and added in the armhole too.
Same with trousers. We measure the length of the trousers, the missing centimeters (or excess), add / remove.
But there is another problem when the volume of the chest corresponds to one size, the waist to another, the hips to the third.
In patterns, the dimensions are next to each other, and you just need to draw the line yourself, the dimensions of which you need.
Here is a sketchy drawing
Please note that the sizes in the magazine do not match the usual ones, they will be smaller by about 6 sizes. I have a chest volume of 46th size, I sew on the burda 40th size.
When you sew a dress or a blouse, you need to focus on the OG, if trousers or a skirt - on the OB.
If you don't understand a hundred, write, I will answer.
For a single piece of clothing, fit on the figure is so unimportant as for trousers! And, unfortunately, it is not guaranteed even for those whose measurements completely coincide with the standard ones. (Under the standard sizes we will understand the sizes presented in the table in fashion magazines).
Consider what can be done to trousers sat well, both at the stage of adjusting the pattern, and in ready-made trousers.
Correction trousers Depending on the size, it can be produced according to several basic parameters.
Length
Determine the difference between your height and standard. By this amount, it is necessary to shorten or lengthen the pattern.
Width
If your measurements of the waist or hips differ from the standard ones - in a pattern trousers necessary changes must be made.
seated height
This is a control value, it is not in the table. Take this measurement yourself in a sitting position: from the waist line to the plane of the chair. See also the article: "Adjustment finished pattern trousers
On the pattern of the back part, draw an additional line, perpendicular to the share. This line should pass through the bottom of the middle seam line.
Set aside the seat height from this line (1).
Important: height trousers when sitting may vary depending on the model.
For example, in a very tight-fitting model of trousers, the crotch seams (middle seam) fit snugly to the body. For wide trousers such as pajamas or with pleats at the waist, the height of the trousers when sitting should be greater. the crotch is more or less low.
To check the desired height of the trousers when sitting, glue the pattern details along the lines of the crotch and side seam, try on a half of the trousers. If the sitting height of the trousers is not enough, cut the paper patterns of the front and back halves of the trousers across at a height of about 15 cm from the waistline and add the desired length (2).
If height trousers when sitting is too large, then pin the excess length along the hips (3) in the form of a transverse fold.
Hip girth
This is a very important benchmark for tight-fitting trousers and with non-standard hip width. On the details of the patterns, it is measured directly at the lower point of the middle seam. Here the main rule is the measured value plus 4 cm. If there is not enough width up to 1.5 cm, then it is added to the pattern of the back half along the crotch line to the level of the knees (4).
If the difference in width is greater, then you can expand the pattern further along the line of the side seams.
Protruding buttocks
Trousers stretched on the buttocks, the side seams go back, the seam of attaching the belt is pulled down.
Usually trousers they sit like this in the case (5), if the buttocks are slightly larger than it is provided in the pattern.
Correction of finished trousers:
Ready trousers you can add width at the side seams and crotch seams rear halves, the length can be added at the seam of attaching the belt.
Correction of "trial" trousers:
If you are going to sew trousers from expensive material, it is advisable to first sew a trial version from inexpensive material.
In "trial" trousers make cuts along the most stretched places along the lobar from the waist almost to the knees and along the transverse almost to the side seams. Pin strips of fabric under the cuts (6).
Paper pattern correction:
Mark the direction of the share along the line of the middle of the back part.
To add the desired width, draw two auxiliary dotted lines:
At the height of the knees, an auxiliary vertical line, perpendicular to the share;
From the top of the back tuck to the point of intersection of the line of direction of the shared thread and the drawn auxiliary transverse line (7).
Cut the pattern along the line of the middle of the depth of the tuck and then along the auxiliary line to the level of the knees, and then along the drawn transverse line to the side edges. Add the desired width of the pattern in the form of a tuck to the line of the knees. Mark the tuck again, while the top of the tuck runs exactly along the line of the middle of the wedge-shaped insert. The pattern is also slightly expanded along the crotch line (8).
To lengthen the pattern, draw a horizontal auxiliary line perpendicular to the direction line of the grain thread and passing through the top of the tuck. Draw a vertical line in the middle between the side seam line and the tuck.
Cut the pattern:
From the line of the rear middle seam to horizontal line almost to the side seam line - from the upper edge of the part along a vertical line almost to a horizontal cut.
Add the length to the horizontal wedge-shaped cut: at the line of the middle back seam 1-2 cm, at the vertical cut - another 0.5-1 cm at the side seam, nothing but add. Thanks to these manipulations, a second tuck is formed at the vertical incision, which is necessary for full buttocks. Because the first tuck has become very deep due to the increase in width, then reduce it by half and add this value to the second tuck.
Draw a new tuck 2-3 cm shorter than the original. Line up the side seam line.
Draw a new grain line on the top of the pattern, extending the grain line from the bottom of the pattern up to the top edge of the piece (9).
Trousers with a good fit will be worn for a long time and with pleasure.
