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Women's chino pants for full pattern. Ready-made pattern of women's chinos in three sizes

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Correcting the pattern of trousers. To make the pants fit well

For a single piece of clothing, fit on the figure is so unimportant as for trousers! And, unfortunately, it is not guaranteed even for those whose measurements completely coincide with the standard ones. (Under the standard sizes we will understand the sizes presented in the table in fashion magazines).

Consider what can be done to trousers they sat well, both at the stage of adjusting the pattern, and in ready-made trousers.

Correction trousers Depending on the size, it can be produced according to several basic parameters.

Length

Determine the difference between your height and standard. By this amount, it is necessary to shorten or lengthen the pattern.

Width

If your measurements of the waist or hips differ from the standard ones - in the pattern trousers necessary changes must be made.

seated height

This is a control value, it is not in the table. Take this measurement yourself in a sitting position: from the waist line to the plane of the chair. See also the article: "Adjustment of the finished pattern of trousers" Adjustment of the finished pattern of trousers"

On the pattern of the back part, draw an additional line, perpendicular to the share. This line should pass through the bottom of the middle seam line.

Set aside the seat height from this line (1).

Important: height trousers when sitting may vary depending on the model.

For example, in a very tight-fitting model of trousers, the crotch seams (middle seam) fit snugly to the body. For wide trousers such as pajamas or with pleats at the waist, the height of the trousers when sitting should be greater. the crotch is more or less low.

To check the desired height of the trousers when sitting, glue the pattern details along the lines of the crotch and side seam, try on a half of the trousers. If the sitting height of the trousers is not enough, cut the paper patterns of the front and back halves of the trousers across at a height of about 15 cm from the waistline and add the desired length (2).

If height trousers when sitting is too large, then pin the excess length along the hips (3) in the form of a transverse fold.

Hip girth

This is a very important benchmark for tight-fitting trousers and with non-standard hip width. On the details of the patterns, it is measured directly at the lower point of the middle seam. Here the main rule is the measured value plus 4 cm. If there is not enough width up to 1.5 cm, then it is added to the pattern of the back half along the crotch line to the level of the knees (4).

If the difference in width is greater, then you can expand the pattern further along the line of the side seams.

Protruding buttocks

Trousers stretched on the buttocks, the side seams go back, the seam of attaching the belt is pulled down.

Usually trousers they sit like this in the case (5), if the buttocks are slightly larger than it is provided in the pattern.

Correction of finished trousers:

Ready trousers you can add width at the side seams and crotch seams of the back halves, the length can be added at the seam of attaching the belt.

Correction of "trial" trousers:

If you are going to sew trousers from expensive material, it is advisable to first sew a trial version from inexpensive material.

In "trial" trousers make cuts along the most stretched places along the lobar from the waist almost to the knees and along the transverse almost to the side seams. Pin strips of fabric under the cuts (6).

Paper pattern correction:

Mark the direction of the share along the line of the middle of the back part.

To add the desired width, draw two auxiliary dotted lines:

- at the height of the knees, an auxiliary vertical line, perpendicular to the share;

- from the top of the back tuck to the point of intersection of the line of direction of the share thread and the drawn auxiliary transverse line (7).

Cut the pattern along the line of the middle of the depth of the tuck and then along the auxiliary line to the level of the knees, and then along the drawn transverse line to the side edges. Add the desired width of the pattern in the form of a tuck to the line of the knees. Mark the tuck again, while the top of the tuck runs exactly along the line of the middle of the wedge-shaped insert. The pattern is also slightly expanded along the crotch line (8).

To lengthen the pattern, draw a horizontal auxiliary line perpendicular to the direction line of the grain thread and passing through the top of the tuck. Draw a vertical line in the middle between the side seam line and the tuck.

- from the line of the back middle seam along the horizontal line almost to the line of the side seam - from the upper edge of the part along the vertical line almost to the horizontal cut.

Add the length to the horizontal wedge-shaped cut: at the line of the middle back seam 1-2 cm, at the vertical cut - another 0.5-1 cm at the side seam, add nothing. Thanks to these manipulations, a second tuck is formed at the vertical incision, which is necessary for full buttocks. Because the first tuck has become very deep due to the increase in width, then reduce it by half and add this value to the second tuck.

Draw a new tuck 2-3 cm shorter than the original. Line up the side seam line.

Draw a new grain line on the top of the pattern, extending the grain line from the bottom of the pattern up to the top edge of the piece (9).

Trousers with a good fit will be worn for a long time and with pleasure.

Modeling Lesson: How to Sew Pants

Evgenia Rodina

fashion designer

Building and fitting trousers is not an easy task even for an experienced tailor. In order to be sure of success, you need a well-adjusted and well-fitted base pattern. You can build it using any method, or you can generate it on our website. Building a pattern according to your measurements will not take a minute, and after payment and receipt, you can print it on any printer. Here - detailed description How. Its cost is small, but its value is huge. Proof of this is the positive feedback sent from different ends country and even from abroad.

« I want to say a huge thank you for the patterns through the generator. I sewed trousers, I just want to cry from happiness, because the size is 60. Two summer trousers in the cut. Thanks again to all the employees of this project for their great help ... »

« I am a large girl, size 58-60, so I was very surprised when the trousers sewn according to the basic pattern fit perfectly from the first fitting. I experienced a real shock. It was a week ago. Now I am sewing two more pairs already from expensive fabric. To say that I am satisfied is not enough! I am endlessly happy! Thank you. »

“... I already used the pattern of trousers. I liked using the service: easy, accessible and understandable, and inexpensive. Thank you. I will explore other sections as well. I will definitely recommend to interested friends. All the best. Further success and development ... "

It's great to receive such feedback from you! When you realize that your work is useful, you experience incomparable pleasure. Here on this wave, we decided to go further and publish a lesson on modeling trousers for you. We hope that it will be useful to you. Let's learn how to model such models.

Pattern of palazzo trousers

The first model of trousers that we will consider is the palazzo trousers. Loose, flared from the hip, they resemble a skirt-pants. Very comfortable at any time of the year, in summer they are indispensable. Sewn from fine viscose jersey, silk, linen .. pleasantly flow down the leg and! importantly, hide the flaws, if any.

For modeling, we need a pattern-base of trousers, scissors and glue.

With the first step, from the points formed by the intersection of the lines of the side seam and the line of the hips, and the end points of the seam of the seat on both halves of the trousers, lower the perpendiculars to the line of the bottom of the trousers.

The second step in modeling the palazzo trousers pattern. To achieve the desired flared shape, it is necessary to cut the pattern parts along the marked lines from the bottom up to the top of the tucks on both halves. Having closed part of the solution of the tucks, we open them at the bottom, thus obtaining the required width of the trousers along the bottom.

Let's outline the width of the finishing part, lampas, its width can be different, according to your desire, in straight lines along the line of the side seam, perpendicular to the bottom. Having cut off along the marked lines, the parts are compatible into one. The tuck solution along the side seam can be left in the center of the part, or it can be distributed in the stitching seam to the main parts of the halves of the trousers.

The top cut of trousers is processed by a stitched belt. Cut it out in the form of a straight line 7 cm wide (without allowances for seams), in finished form (in the fold) 3.5 cm, and a length equal to the circumference of the waist. We suggest making a fastener in any seam with a hidden zipper.

Jogger pants pattern

Trousers - joggers have a definite advantage - they are very comfortable. Their loose but not oversized fit at the hips, slightly dropped waistline and seat, soft ribbed cuffs and ribbing at the top, material performance all provide comfort and ease of style. Worth wearing them Everyday life, although they are made of silk, lurex fabrics ... they can also become the subject of an evening wardrobe. In our photo, the model of trousers is Ralph Lauren joggers, they are made of high quality soft jersey.

Let's start modeling by checking the gains along the hip line. After you have printed the pattern, take a measuring tape in your hands and measure both parts of the trousers along the hip line, compare the result with your measurements + an increase in fit freedom. We recommend an increase to OB 6-8 cm for this model. If the pattern in the hip area does not match your request, it is easy to correct.

It is necessary to cut the details of the pattern along the center and move apart by the missing amount. See drawing.

Lower seat line.

Do not forget to shorten the legs to the width of the elastic cuff.

Cuffs - elastic bands on the bottom of the trousers are cut out with rectangular parts with a width equal to their doubled width in the finished form, plus an allowance for a stitching seam (1 cm), and a length equal to the circumference of the ankle, plus a small (1.5-3 cm) increase in freedom of fitting, plus an allowance for the seam.

The belt is also cut out in the form of a rectangle with a length of OT + an increase in the freedom of fitting 2-3 cm and a seam allowance equal to twice the width in the finished form.

On the outside, in the center of the belt, punch two blocks or overcast two loops to thread the cord.

The cuffs and the waistband must be sewn slightly stretching, equalizing the cuts of the trousers and the details of the processing.

Pocket. Make a pocket with an overlay seam, bending the sections inward, process the section of the entrance to the pocket into a hem or edging.

Pattern of cigarette trousers

The next model, which we have chosen for the lesson, is elegant and graceful. Pants - cigarettes - are very popular, they add sexuality and grace to women's legs.

Modeling it is not at all difficult. Having a well-fitting pattern-base, you can easily cope with this task.

Just narrow the pants and adjust the length. For narrowing, you need to know exactly the desired width of the trousers along the bottom and in the knee area - for control. This can be done simply by removing the parameters from the figure, plus an increase in the freedom of the fit. The recommended increase in the knee area is 8-12 cm, along the bottom 5-10 cm. The value depends on the fabric, because you can use fabrics with a high content of elastane. Decided? Then measure the pattern in these places, modeling may not be needed!

If the base pattern turned out to be wider (narrower) - we will correct it.

In order not to lose the proportions of the trousers, the excess (missing) value must be corrected with the same segments on each side of the side seam along the bottom and the knee line, on both halves of the trousers. See drawing.

Process the top of the trousers with a stitched belt, which is cut out in the form of a rectangle with a length equal to the measure From, plus an allowance for freedom and an allowance for the fastener. The width of the belt is 3 cm in ironed finished form. The fastener of cigarette trousers will look best in the side seam, on a hidden zipper.

Modeling skinny trousers

Hi, I'm modeling flute pants. In this post, narrow, in the next classic version with a pleat.

I model the pattern on the finished basis.

So, for tight trousers I do

Raising the instep and narrowing the inseam

front half

I draw a straight line to the knee, just as an auxiliary.

Correcting the middle line

Back half

I increase the rotation of the rear half

With a narrow width of the trousers at the knee, so that when the legs are raised, the trousers do not go down from the waist along the back, the rotation of the back half is increased. So to speak, to preserve the dynamic properties of the trousers.

The more the buttocks protrude, the greater the opening.

Correcting the middle line.

When combining the front and rear halves along the lines of the arrow and the knee (bottom), the distance between the middle lines must be at least 10 mm.

Front leg

Hem and knee widths

The width along the bottom is selected approximately in the range of 30 - 34 cm around the entire circumference. The distance from the middle of the leg in both directions is calculated as Width / 4 - 0.5 cm.

The width along the knee line should not be less than the girth of the knee in a bent state.

Lateral and walking lines

Back leg same lines

If the pants will sit on the natural waist line, then the belt will be just a straight rectangular.

If the waist line is lowered, then the belt should be undercut so that it fits well to the figure and does not bulge.

We make a lowered waist by lowering the waistline by the desired amount.

It can be useful:

How to build a side pocket with a flared barrel and a codpiece clasp, see here.

Straight sewing order women's trousers. The post contains the complete process of creating trousers, go straight to tailoring. The sequence of steps is the same.

We sew trendy tight sexy skinny and cargo pants!

SKINNY (skinny) - tight trousers or jeans, ranging from "pencils" (pencil leg) and ending with jeggings (jeans + leggings) are still very relevant.

And it's an illusion that skinny fit only thin people!
Look at Kim Kardashian, Rihanna and Sofia Vergara who look very attractive in them. Skinny in different interpretations, colors, textures and details can be found at 7 For All Mankind, Balmain, Burberry, Chanel, Dsquared, J Brand, Notify, Roberto Cavalli, Victoria Beckham Denim, True Religion, Black Orchid – and, fortunately, it is not necessary to count on the fact that they will disappear in the near future.

Jeggings, unlike leggings, do not require covering our ass, which gives us the freedom to choose the top of the wardrobe.

CARGO
According to fashion experts, 2010 was marked by Houlihan jeans from J Brand, which were sold out in America and Europe with incredible excitement! It was in this model of jeans that Gwen Stefani, Renne Zellweger, Gwyneth Paltrow, Charlize Theron, Eva Longoria, Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker, Fergie, Cindy Crawford and many, believe me, many others were seen. Good things don't disappear without a trace.

And in 2011, many designers picked up this trend, slightly expanding and evolving it in their collections:
7 For All Mankind, Balmain, Black Orchid, Current/Elliott, Dsquared, J Brand, Stella McCartney, True Religion, Work Custom. This season, the already popular olive and gray flowers cargo jeans added a new, no less delightful beige.

All models are modeled on the same basic pattern - tight tight trousers.

The pattern is built according to the method of "Muller and son".

Size 44. Hips 88-92cm. The rest of the dimensions are built in the same way.

measurements
How to take measurements - read here.

From the photo you can see that the pants are very tight fitting. So you need to sew them only from elastic fabrics, otherwise you will not be able to sit down or raise your leg in them. We do not make any additions to the fit, even negative ones. We take measurements as they are.

We make the necessary calculations

Lsh - Step length. Lw=Dsb-Sun=106-25=80cm

Vk - Height of the knee. Vk \u003d Lsh / 2 - Lsh / 10 \u003d 80/2 - 80/10 \u003d 32cm

Shpb - the width of the front half. Shpb \u003d OB / 4 - 1 \u003d 92/4 - 1 \u003d 22cm

Shzb - the width of the back half. Shzb \u003d ABOUT / 1 + 1 \u003d 92/4 + 1 \u003d 24cm.

We build a pattern-the basis of tight trousers

From this base, in the future, you can model and sew any tight denim or leather trousers.

1-3 Seat height. Sun=25cm

3-4 Knee height Vk=32cm

1-5 Pants length on the side (with heel) Dsb=106cm

5-6 Ankle level. The difference between Dsb - Dsh \u003d 106-96 \u003d 10 cm. Optionally, you can make pants length to the ankle, or to the knee. In my case, I will not do anything, I want such as in the photo, long.

3-7 Hip line. OB/20 + 3cm = 92/20 + 3 = 7.6cm

From points 2, 7, 3, 4, 5 draw perpendicular lines to the right.

7-8 Width of the front half of the trousers Shpb = 22cm

8-9 Step width of the front half of the trousers OB / 20 + 0.5 (for all sizes) = 92/20 + 0.5 = 5.1 cm

Draw a perpendicular through point 8, put points 8a and 10 at the intersections.

Here's what we have, drawing 1:

Buildings to drawing 2

11 half cut 7-9

Through point 11 draw up the line of the arrow - we get points 13 and 14.

12-15 and 12-16 1/4 Pants bottom width minus 0.5 cm. 21/4 - 0.5 = 4.8cm

15a-16a lower the perpendiculars down to the bottom line.

7-15a and 9-16a Draw flank and stride lines. 17, 18, 19 we get at the intersection.

from 8 to the right set aside 0.5 cm.

8a - 8b copy half of the segment 8a-17. Connect points 8b and 17 with an auxiliary straight line.

Draw a smooth cut line for the bow, see drawing 2.

Extend the bow line, draw a straight line perpendicular to it. This line will cross the waist line at a distance of 5 cm from the arrow line.

20-21 OT/4+1cm = 68/4+1=18cm

21-22 \u003d 1-2 In our case, 1.5 cm. Make a cut of the waist with a smooth line.

Make a side cut by connecting 22 and 7.

18-23 and 19-24 narrowing depending on the desired shape of the trousers.

23-24 Should equal 2* (1/4 Width at the knee minus 0.5 cm). 2*(34/4-0.5)=16cm.

Back half. Buildings to drawing 3

The construction of the rear half is carried out on the drawing of the front.

11-25 removal of the arrow on the back half of the trousers - 2cm.

25-26 Shzb/4+0.5cm = 6+0.5=6.5cm

26-27 straight cut. From v.26 restore perpendiculars up and down.

Extend the waist and hips to the left and right.

28-29 The line of the level of the hips of the back half of the trousers. The line is Wzb-1cm=24-1=23cm. It is parallel to the segment 26-27 and perpendicular to 28-36, should cross the line of the hips of the front half.

25-30=25-29=17.3cm

On the bottom line, set aside 1 cm to the right and left of the side lines, as well as on the knee line. Draw a side line and a step line, getting points 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a.

From 32 through 29, draw a straight line to the intersection with the waist line - we get 35.

Connect 30 and 31.

13-36 \u003d cut (13-35) + 3 cm \u003d 61.3 cm. At the intersection with the line of the rear middle cut, we get 36.

35-36 connect.

37-38 FROM / 4 - 1cm + 1.5cm (tuck) \u003d 68 / 4-1 + 1.5 \u003d 17.5cm

In the middle of the segment 37-38, draw a perpendicular and on the sides of it put a back tuck 1.5 cm long 8-10 cm.

From 38, draw a short perpendicular upwards.

Copy the line of the side cut of the front half, combine it along the line of the thigh of the back half and turning, find the intersection with the perpendicular from p.38. So leave it - we got the line of the side seam of the back.

Draw a waistline.

31-39 Back crotch length. 0.5cm shorter than the front crotch length.

37-39 Draw a line for the middle cut of the back half of the trousers.

Here is the pattern we need for modeling - the basis of tight-fitting trousers

Let's model the dark blue suede trousers from Balmain.

Lower the waist line 2 cm down. Draw a belt line, 4 cm wide.

We put the position and size of the welt pockets “in the frame” on the base pattern. Width 15mm, length 12cm. Don't forget the pockets and 2cm pocket piping.

We apply lines of relief seams, arbitrarily, approximately like on the original. My model is already sewn, so you can apply it like mine.

We apply a yoke line on the back, the width along the middle line is 6-7 cm.

We carry out a tuck on the back half. It is needed so that the fabric under the gluteal fold fits well to the body and does not sag. The width of the tuck is 1.5-2 cm. But you can do it only if the fabric stretches a little (2-5% elasticity) and when building the base pattern you did not make negative increases for elastic fabrics.

We draw a pocket, on it we also need to put the lines of the tuck and the welt pocket “in the frame”.

In order to sew this model from leather or leather.zam. the fabric will need glue “moment” shoe for the skin (for some knots), thread for the skin, 6 metal clasps, the material itself, a trouser hook.

Leather should not be ironed through a damp iron. Only defend with a very hot iron.

And now ideas from fashion designers!

How to sew trousers with your own hands?

Hello, my dear readers of the Shasomnoy.rf blog. Now we will sew fashion pants with low seat line and 7/8 length.

The following ready-made pattern for download is designed for the following sizes:

St=38
Sat=50
Height to knee from waist=56
Half circumference of the knee=22
Pants width at the bottom = 33 cm (for narrow calves)
Pants length 93 cm.

If you fit on the hips, then the rest of the measurements can be corrected.

If you want to build trousers pattern for yourself, be sure to check out these two articles:

They walk through the whole process step by step. building a pattern of trousers according to your measurements.

Download the pattern and cut out the details from the fabric. I sew from costume non-stretch fabric. You can take any suit or denim, as you wish.

Cut out the front of the trousers:

Cut out the back of the pants:

We mark on the details of the trousers the control points of the knee line and the undercut.

We cut out the details of the pocket and the slope (it will need to be built using a codpiece pattern). We will consider this point a little later.

Drawstring and zipper in trousers.

We cut and glue the details of the belt and the facing with doubler.

Sew up the undercut on the back halves of the trousers. We iron the allowances to the center of the trousers (back middle seam).

We make side pockets on the front halves of the trousers.

We connect both halves of the trousers (front and back) from knee reference point first up, then down. Fasten with pins or tack.

We sew both halves of the trousers on a typewriter. Here's what should happen:

Now we will process the bottom of the trousers. Initially, I laid 2 cm allowances at the bottom so that 1 cm could be folded twice. We first turn the bottom of the trousers 1 cm. Let's iron this place.

Then we tuck it another 1 cm. Iron it.

We sew on a typewriter, make sure that the seam is even and there are no wrinkles anywhere on the fabric.

Once again, iron the finished bottom of the trousers.

Now you need to process the zipper in the trousers and make a belt.

We pin or tack the finished belt face to face to the upper cut of the trousers.

We sew the belt to the trousers on a typewriter.

We turn the belt inside out so that both its parts (outer and inner) are face to face. Now you need to sew up the sides of the belt so that they smoothly pass into the codpiece. Baste and stitch along the allowance line the sides of the belt. (as pictured on the right)

Here's what should happen:

Now we bend the allowances to the side of the belt and tuck the allowances of the inner belt so as to slightly close the seam of attaching the belt to the trousers with the inner belt. It is advisable to overturn this seam by 2 mm, then you will get a neat inner part of the belt.

We take note. We make sure that the inner belt lies flat, does not overtighten anywhere. It is best to first hem it on the front of the trousers, and then on the back.

Now important point. We sew from the front side into the seam of attaching the belt to the trousers. Thus, we will sew the inner belt to the outer one, and all the allowances will remain inside, and there will be a beautiful inner processing of the trousers.

It is only very important to accurately hit this seam. To do this, we move apart (as if pulling) the belt and the trousers themselves in different directions. Then we will iron the belt and this line will not be visible if you do everything carefully.

This is how the belt should look like.

Here is the inside view:

But there are not enough loops on the belt where we can put the belt.

Now it's time to make a loop and sew a button on the trousers.

To do this, we use a special foot for loops. We insert our button into the foot, put the foot in the machine. Do not forget to lower the special thing down so that it stops the machine and directs it in the opposite direction.

The machine has a special buttonhole mode, as in the photo below.

And of course, do not make a loop immediately on the trousers, but first practice several times on the same fabric with which you sew the trousers. Since the loop may need to be adjusted.

Made a loop on the trousers.

And sew on a button.

These are such wonderful trousers.

P.S. Although I built them for myself, I wanted them to be with an underestimated seam (I lowered the seat line 5 cm from the natural one), but this turned out to be a bit too much in the finished product. Perhaps it depends on the quality and density of the fabric. In any case, you can adjust this moment if necessary (hem the excess from the inside).

See also a video on how to sew new trousers without a pattern, based on your favorite old pants:

I hope you liked the article and if you sewed trousers - they will bring you many joyful moments!! Sew with me!

Pattern of women's trousers Step by step construction

Pattern-basis of women's trousers. Step-by-step construction of a pattern drawing

The styles of trousers can be very diverse: classic and sporty; voluminous in the hips and more adjacent; expanded to the bottom and narrowed; with cuffs and without cuffs; With different types pockets and without them; length, which varies from the knees to the level of the foot; with slits in the side seams and without slits; with various finishes: braid, lace, lacing and other decorative elements. Pants are made with or without lining. A wide variety of fabrics are used for sewing trousers: from guipure to drape.

The starting point for all this abundance is construction of the main drawing of trousers. And already on its basis, all styles that you can imagine are constructed.

And here's something else I would like to remind you: If you think that it is difficult, you will see that you were right. If you think that it's easy, you will again be convinced that you are right. So before you think - think!

I wish you courage and self-confidence.

Let's take the first step.

To build a drawing of the base of the trousers, the following measurements and increases are required (the figures given correspond to size 48):

Waist circumference (St) = 38 cm,

Semicircumference of the hips (Sat) = 52 cm,

Pants length to the knee (Dk) = 56 cm;

Pants length on the side (db) = 100cm;

Pants width at the bottom (Wn) = 24 cm;

Allowances for loose fit at the waist (Pt) and hips (Pb) are selected depending on the degree of fit of the trousers: Pt - from 0 to 1.5 cm, Pb - from 0.5 to 4 cm. For our construction, we will take the minimum allowance for the waist , i.e. zero, and on the hips - 1 cm.

We need three more control measurements: knee circumference, ankle circumference and thigh circumference.

Construction of a drawing of the front half of the trousers.

We begin the construction of the drawing by drawing two mutually perpendicular lines.

The point of intersection is designated T1.

Seat height.

There are two options for determining the height of the seat: by taking measurements and by calculation. In our example, we use the second option, i.e. determine this value by the formula T1Ya1 \u003d 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) + 1 cm. Substitute the values, we get \u003d 0.5 x (52 + 1) + 1 \u003d 27,5 cm.

Set aside 27.5 cm from the point T1 down the vertical and put the point R1. From point Z1, left and right, hold horizontal line.

Set aside 9.1 cm from point R1 upwards vertically and put point B1. Draw a horizontal line through point B1 to the left and right.

Hip width.

Formula, values, result. We move on.

B1B2 \u003d 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 \u003d 0.5 x (52 + 1) - 1 \u003d 26.5 - 1 \u003d 25.5 cm.

Set aside 25.5 cm from point B1 to the right horizontally and put point B2. Through point B2, draw a vertical up and down, mark the intersection points as T2 and R2.

Step width.

R2R3 \u003d 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) Carefully substitute the values \u003d 0.1 x (52 + 1) \u003d 5.3 cm (see figure below).

Set aside 5.3 cm from the point R2 to the right horizontally and put the point R3.

The position of the fold line.

Divide the segment Y1Y3 in half and put a point Y.

Draw a vertical line through the point I up and down, mark the points of intersection with the auxiliary lines as T and B.

Knee lines.

Distance TC is equal to measured Dk = 56 cm.

From point T down along the fold line, set aside 56 cm and put point K. Through point K, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.

Length trousers.

From point T down along the fold line, set aside 100 cm and put point H. Through point H, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.

Pants width at the knee.

KK1 \u003d KK2 \u003d HH1 \u003d 11 cm.

It should be noted that the width of the trousers along the knee line can be greater or less than the width of the trousers along the bottom line, or be the same, but should not be less than the measurement of the circumference of the knee (Ok) plus an increase of 2 cm for a loose fit. We take the width of the trousers along the knee line to be equal to the width of the trousers along the bottom line. From point K to the left and right horizontally, set aside 11 cm and put points: on the left - K1, on the right - K2. The width of the trousers along the bottom line.

HH1 \u003d HH2 \u003d 0.5 x (Shn - 2) \u003d 0.5 x (24 - 2) \u003d 11 cm. Set aside 11 cm from point H to the left and right and put points: on the left - H1, on the right - H2.

The width of the trousers at the bottom should not be less than the measurement of the ankle girth.

Auxiliary points for the design of the step cut line.

The point R21 is obtained by dividing the segment R2R3 in half.

Connect points R21 and K2 with a straight line, divide this segment in half and connect the dividing point with a smooth concave line with point R3.

Draw a step cut line below the division point through points K2 and H2, connecting them with a straight line.

Decoration of the "bow" line (line of the middle cut of the front half).

T2T0 = 0 to 1 cm;

The distance T2T0 is taken equal to zero for figures with a convex belly, and also when trousers are supposed to be sewn from fabric with a checkered pattern and stripes, although the latter condition is not necessary.

In our example, the distance T2T0 is 1 cm.

Set aside 1 cm from the point T2 to the left horizontally and put the point T0. Connect points T0 and B2 with a straight line. Connect points B2 and R3 with an auxiliary straight line, divide the segment in half and put point D. Connect point D with a straight line to point R2. Divide the segment DYA2 in half, mark the division point as D1. Line the "bow" through the points T0, B2, D1, R3 with a smooth line.

Waist width.

T0T4 \u003d 0.5 x (St + Fri) + two darts. The width of each tuck is 2 cm. We take the minimum allowance along the waistline, i.e. equal to zero. We substitute the values \u200b\u200bin the formula \u003d 0.5x (38 + 0) + 2x2 \u003d 23 cm.

Set aside 23 cm from the point T0 to the left horizontally and put the point T4.

The position of the darts on the waistline.

The first tuck is located along the fold line, set aside 1 cm from the T point to the left and right. The length of the tuck is 8-10 cm. Draw the sides of the tuck in straight lines;

The second tuck is located in the middle of the segment from point T4 to the solution of the 1st tuck. From the division point, lower the perpendicular 8-10 cm long - this is the center line of the tuck, set aside 1 cm to the left and right from it and draw the sides of the tuck.

Side cut line.

Connect the points R1 and K1 with an auxiliary straight line, divide it in half, and from the division point to the right along the perpendicular, set a deflection of 0.5-0.7 cm. Draw a side cut line through the points T4, B1, R1, the deflection point, K1, H1.

Bottom line.

The bottom line of the front half is drawn with a straight line H1H2.

The construction of the drawing of the front half of the trousers is completed.

Building a drawing the back of the pants.

Bottom line width.

H1H3 = H2H4 = 2cm.

Set aside 2 cm from points H1 and H2 to the left and right and put points H3 on the left and H4 on the right, respectively.

The bottom line of the back half: from point H, lay down 0.5 cm vertically and put point H5. Draw the bottom line with straight lines, connecting the points H3, H5, H4.

Width at the knee line.

K1K3 \u003d K2K4 \u003d 2 cm. Set aside 2 cm to the left and right from points K1 and K2 and put points K3 and K4, respectively. Connect points K3 and K4 with straight lines to points H3 and H4.

Step Width(See picture below) . R2R5 \u003d 0.2 x (Sb + Pb) + 1. Substitute the values \u200b\u200bin the formula \u003d 0.2 x (52 + 1) + 1 \u003d 11.6 cm. Set aside 11.6 cm from the point R2 to the right horizontally and put the point R5.

Stepping line.

Points H5 and K4, connect with a straight line. Divide the Y5K4 segment in half, set aside 0.5-0.7 cm at the division point along the perpendicular to the left - we get an auxiliary deflection point. From the point R3, drop down a perpendicular 1 cm long and put the point R31. R3 R31 \u003d 1 cm. From point R2 through point R31, draw a straight line to the right until it intersects with the auxiliary line. Designate the intersection point R51.

Draw a step cut line through points R51, a deflection point and a point K4 with a smooth concave line, and through points K4, H4 - a straight line.

Middle cut line.

The balance of trousers is the ratio of the levels of the cut tops of the front and back halves.

From point T to the right, set aside 1/3 of the length of segment TT2 and put point T21. From point T21, draw a vertical upwards, set aside 4.3 cm on it and put point T5:

T21T5 \u003d 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 \u003d 0.1 x (52 + 1) - 1 \u003d 4.3 cm.

Connect points T5 and R2 with a straight line, mark the point of intersection with the line of the hips as B3.

Line the middle cut through the points T5, B3 with a straight line, then through the points D2, R31, R51 - with a slightly concave line.

Hip width.

B3B4 \u003d (Sb + Pb) - B1B2 from the front half \u003d (52 + 1) - 25.5 \u003d 27.5 cm.

Set aside 27.5 cm from point B3 to the left horizontally and put point B4.

Waist width.

T5T7 \u003d 0.5 x (St + Fri) + 2 darts. The width of the solution of each tuck is taken 2 cm = 0.5 x (38 + 0) + 2 x 2 = 23 cm.

From point T5 to the left, make a notch on the waist line with a radius of 23 cm and put point T7. Connect points T7 and T5 with a straight line.

The position of the notches.

Divide the segment T5T7 into three equal parts, lower the perpendiculars 8-10 cm long from the division points - we get the axial lines of the tucks, from which to the left and to the right set aside half of the tuck solution, i.e. 1 cm each. Draw the sides of the tucks in straight lines.

Side cut line.

To ensure the smoothness of the side cut line, the distance B4K3 must be divided into three equal parts. From the division points along the perpendicular, we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm each. Moreover, at the upper division point to the left, and at the lower point to the right.

Making a side cut line.

Connect points T7 and B4 with a slightly convex line, points B4 and K3 with a convex-concave line, through auxiliary points (see figure). We connect points K3 and H4 with a straight line.

The construction of the drawing of the back half of the trousers is completed.

Cut details

You have completed the drawing of the trousers pattern.

Any style can be constructed from this base and, of course, it can be used as a pattern for sewing dress pants. By making minor changes to the design, for example, expanding at the knees or narrowing the bottom, you will get a completely new model. By experimenting, you gain invaluable experience.

We will lay out detailed instructions on design and sewing technology with illustrative examples in the relevant sections.

Wish you luck!

Information taken from the site Sewing master

- refined and casual. There are both men's and women's chinos. Chinos are versatile summer trousers, appreciated for their casual yet sophisticated look. Convenient, comfortable trousers suitable for almost everyone, on the basis of which you can create various spectacular images. What to wear with chinos, patterns, where to buy them and whether you can buy them in online stores - all this is described below.

Chinos: history

Chinos have a military history. Pants of this type were part of the military uniforms of the British troops in India. They were originally white. Tropical climates have proven difficult to maintain. White color, dust and dirt was impossible to wash off. Therefore, the commander of the regiment, Harry Lumsden, decided to dye the white uniform with the help of natural dyes available in abundance: curry, coffee dust and mulberry juice. As a result of mixing these dyes, a unique color was obtained, which the locals called "dust-dyed" - khaki. The color turned out to be so successful that military field uniforms are still sewn from fabric of this color. A comfortable look of trousers, practical color became part of the uniform of the US Army, which at the end of the 19th century fought in the Philippine Islands. Pants were made from cotton fabric made in China. And China in Spanish is pronounced like chinos, it is this name that has been assigned to trousers. Until the middle of the twentieth century, they continued to be part of military uniform, only after the Second World War, chinos got into the wardrobes of civilians. First they became men's trousers, and then women's.

Chinos: characteristics and features, patterns

Textile. Chinos are sewn only from natural, lightweight fabrics; in modern conditions, a small amount of synthetic fibers can be added, which makes caring for them less problematic. Therefore, chinos are exclusively summer pants.

Color. As mentioned above, initially they were white, then they became khaki, now the color of the trousers can be any.
Style. Chinos are not limited to one strictly defined model, but they are all free-cut, not restricting movement. Fashion designers modified the original style of these trousers in cut and style, supplemented with decorative elements. But the main features by which you can visually distinguish chinos from others remain unchanged.
Classic features:

The cut of the trousers is tapered to the bottom and slightly shortened to the ankle.
Slanted side pockets, hidden at the back.
Button closure.
Landing is classic.
Modern innovations:

The degree of narrowing of the trousers can be different. There are models with a zipper. Landing can now be both low and high.
How to choose and wear chinos.
Chino pants are unique, they combine sophistication and ease, sometimes even negligence. A large number of styles in various colors and the excellent ability to combine with various types of clothing creates a wide field for imagination and the ability to create various looks: business, romantic, casual, sports. In wardrobe modern woman trendy chinos should be better if there are several of them.

Chinos: color

Chino color from a huge variety of colors can be selected for reasons of practicality - so that it goes well with the main things of the wardrobe or from personal color preferences.
Having decided on the color, you can start trying on different styles based on the fact that any woman can pick up chinos for herself.
For slender women, chinos with tucks or pleats are perfect, this will add an attractive volume to the hips, and without pleats, slimness will be emphasized.

For full ones, the option with folds is not suitable, they have enough of their volume, you should choose models without folds, and without a strong fit from a fabric that is light in structure, they should be moderately free.
Chinos with pleats creating volume in the thighs will serve well for women who have a problem when the shoulders are wider and the hips are narrow, chinos will add extra volume to the hips and correct the imbalance.
There is one caveat: for those who have fairly full shin and ankles, it is better to avoid this type of trousers, as they will emphasize this feature due to narrowing.
High-waisted chinos can make your legs look longer. Low-rise chinos can only be worn by tall women. For everyone else, a classic fit will be ideal.
Chinos are tucked at the bottom, they do something like a cuff, so you can adjust the length, they should be a few centimeters above the ankle. The width of the lapel is adjusted depending on the height, the lower the woman, the narrower the lapel. Owners of small stature can make them a little longer so as not to cut the leg visually.

Chinos: accessories

The most essential accessory for chinos is the belt. Any color but black, this color is too strict for casual chinos. For a more relaxed look, the belt can be taken in a different color that matches the color of the shoes or bag. The belt can be replaced with a beautiful multi-colored scarf.
How the image created by chinos will look depends largely on the shoes. For casual and sporty looks, flat shoes are ideal: moccasins, loafers, ballet flats, sandals, sneakers, sneakers. Business and evening looks are created using shoes with heels: stilettos, large stable, or solid soles.
Clothing is matched to chinos according to the created image.
exquisite evening version with a silk or chiffon blouse for a bright touch in the form of an elegant little handbag.

For fans of casual style, chinos are a real find, with a blouse, t-shirt, cardigan, jumper, loose-fitting jacket, you can create beautiful, relaxed looks for a walk in the park, out of town or shopping, picking up various large and comfortable bags, comfortable shoes, and original accessories.
A business look can be created with beige chinos and a shirt-type blouse with a strict jacket or vest and a medium-sized bag.
Sophisticated and relaxed, chinos bring a fresh touch to your summer wardrobe, therefore, must be present in the women's wardrobe.

Skinny pants have remained relevant for many years, and are unlikely to leave fashionable Olympus in the near future. The details change a little, but the tapered cut itself remains unchanged. So, high- and medium-rise trousers, shortened at the bottom, are popular today. The pattern of just such trousers is presented in today's article. In addition, I offer 2 options for stylish skinny trousers by Marlene Mukai. So, first things first.

Pattern of cropped trousers, tapered down

Any trouser fabric is suitable for tailoring trousers. If you want the pants to be elastic, then it is better to give preference to fabrics with the addition of elastane. Otherwise, you can choose fabrics that hold their shape well. Since cropped jeans are in fashion now, you can choose thin denim, or cotton fabrics dyed to look like jeans.

At the end of the sewing description, you can download patterns of cropped trousers for sizes 40,44,48.

cutting

1. The front half of the trousers - 2 children. (bottom hem allowance not less than 4.5 cm)
2. The back half of the trousers - 2 children. (bottom hem allowance not less than 4.5 cm)
3. Front of the belt - 4 parts
4. The back of the belt - 2 parts with a fold
Pocket lining - 2 parts (copy from part 1) Rectangle 6 cm wide and equal to the length of the zipper, plus allowances (for fastening)
5 strips 2.5 x 5 cm plus allowances (for belt loops)

Cut out from the lining material:

Pocket lining - 2 parts

Sewing cropped trousers

Duplicate two parts of the front part of the belt and one part of the back part with adhesive cushioning material.

On each front half of the trousers, make a welt pocket with a leaflet with set-in ends in waist products: pin one part of the lining from the inside along the pocket marking, inside out down. Cut out a leaflet in the longitudinal direction of the warp threads from the base material - a strip, the width of which is equal to twice the width of the leaflet plus seam allowances on both sides, and the length is equal to the length of the entrance to the pocket plus seam allowances on both sides. Duplicate half the width of the leaflet with adhesive cushioning material. Iron the leaf along the center inside out. Sew the leaflet on the main part according to the marking with the front sides, directing the leaflet with a fold towards the middle of the main part (or down if the leaflet is horizontal).

On the other side of the pocket marking, sew a gap (cut out from the base material in the form of a strip with a length equal to the length of the leaflet and a width of about 5-6 cm) of the faces. side down so that the area between the lines is equal to the width of the leaflet in finished form (= length from the fold of the leaflet to the stitching line).

Cut between the lines of the main part and the lining with diagonal notches to the ends of the lines, bend the leaf forward (or up - according to the model), the gap is inside out. Sew the seam edges of the stitches with a zigzag stitch. leaflets on the lining of the pocket. According to the model - stitch the seam to the edge of the stitch. leaflets.

Over the valance, lay the 2nd part of the pocket lining. Straighten the valance and sew the inside of the valance onto the pocket lining with a zigzag stitch. Secure the ends of the pocket by sewing along the base of the corners of the seam allowances. Stitch the edges of the pocket lining. Lay a through line in the seam of attaching the leaves and along the seams at the ends of the pocket from the front or back side. According to the model - lay the line to the edge along the seam of the stitches. leaflets and at the ends of the pocket. Baste the pocket lining to the cuts of the main piece.

Treat the tuck on each back half of the trousers.

Stitch the sides of the trousers from the top to the bottom, leaving open areas for the slots on the side of the trousers and on the side of the hem allowances (3.5 cm from the bottom line on both sides).

Sew the crotch and mid-section of the trousers (leave the zipper section unstitched in the front middle seam).

Treat the fastener with a zipper and a slope.

Process the stitched belt with loops.

Bend the bottom hem to the faces. side and grind the side cuts of the slot. Bend the hem of the bottom of the cropped trousers to the wrong side, straighten the turned edges; iron and hand-hem the bottom hem with blind stitches.

At the ends of the belt, sew a loop; sew on a button.

Iron the front and back folds of the trousers (“arrows”).

Download patterns of cropped trousers, tapered down:

Patterns of skinny women's trousers from Marlene Mukay

And two more models of skinny women's trousers from Marlene Mukay. The sizes are in Portuguese, the table is attached below.

Size 36 Size 38 Size 40 Size 42
Size 44 Size 46 Size 48 Size 50
Size 52 Size 54 Size 56

Sewing. Pattern-basis of trousers according to Italian technology. Description and video tutorial

Do not rush to leave the page, thinking that you already know how to build a pattern of trousers! Why? I'll explain now…
How many actions do you need to do to get a pattern, right?
That is why I went searching on the Internet, and came across a surprisingly simple, but at the same time accurate Italian technique.

Construction of a pattern-basis of trousers (description)

In this article, we will consider the construction of a basic pattern of straight women's trousers according to the Italian method. Its main difference from other methods is that the side seam of the product is shifted to the center of the back panel by 1 cm.
The main advantage of basic patterns, as a rule, is the possibility of using them as a basis for modeling trousers, shorts, bridge, etc. The advantages of the Italian cut are obvious for women with a large back curve. Due to its design, the pants have a perfect fit in the waist and hips.

Initial data
So, to build a pattern, we need initial data - measurements. It is advisable that you have someone help you measure them. Note that all measurements are measured in underwear and recorded in the table.

Important: as the initial data, measurements of size 50 for women according to the Italian cutting system were taken.
For other sizes, see Standard measurements used in the Italian cutting system.

Measure Designation Value
Waist circumference OT 84
Hip circumference OB 110
Thigh height WB 20.5
Seat height BC 28
Knee height VK 60.5
Knee girth OK 26
Pants length DI 106

Note: Wb is measured from the waist line to the horizontal line drawn along the most protruding points of the buttocks; Sun is measured in a sitting position - the distance from the lower edge of the tape at the waist to the plane of the chair; Vk in this case is measured on the side from the waist to the middle of the kneecap.

When constructing a basic pattern of trousers, we accept the necessary allowances for a free fit:

Increase Designation Value (CM)
Waist increase Ex. T 1
Increase to the hips Ex. B 2

When modeling, the increments can be changed within the limits: for Pt from 0 to 1.5 cm, for Pb from 0.5 to 4 cm. The degree of fit of the product depends on the increments.

Building a pattern of trousers

(Fig. 1) So, we recommend building a pattern drawing on graph paper (it is sold in rolls up to 1 m wide) or in special programs for building patterns, such as RedCafe. (favorite software of engineers Autocad is also suitable)
Let's start by building the front panel of the trousers. In the upper right corner we put point A. Further, from point A down we set aside two measurements: Wb - we set point B and Vs - we set point C.

(Fig. 2) From point B to the left, we set aside a segment equal to ¼ (OB + Pr.b) - point B1 and to the right 0.5 cm - point B2

(Fig. 3) From point C to the left, set aside the value of segment BB1, set point C1 and to the right - a segment equal to 1/20 OB - point C2

(Fig. 4) We connect the points C2, B2 and A with a smooth line, we get the middle seam.

(Fig. 5) We return to t.A. To the left we set aside ¼OT + 3cm, put t.A1. Up from point A1, set aside 1 cm and set point A2.

(Fig. 6) Using the pattern, we connect the points A2, B1, C1. If there is no template at hand, we draw a smooth line.

(Fig. 7) Find the middle of the segment С1С2, set point D. We draw a perpendicular to the line C1C2 and at the intersection with the line AA1 we set t.E.

(Fig. 8) From point E down we set aside two measurements: Vk - set point D1 and Dl.br - point F.

(Fig. 9) From point D1 we set aside equal segments to the right and left and set points D2 and D3. The segment D2D3 will be equal to the measure 1/2 Ok.

(Fig. 10) We take the bottom of the trousers pattern equal to the segment D2D3, set the points F2 and F1, where point F is the middle of the segment F2F1.

(Fig. 11) We connect the points C2, D2, F2 and get the inner seam. We connect the points C1, D3, F1 and get the outer seam. Segment DD1F is the midpoint.

(Fig. 12) Next, we build the front tuck. Set aside in both directions from t.E 1 cm and down 10 cm, put points E3, E2, E1 and connect them.

(Fig. 13) With a pattern, we connect the points of the upper cut AE2 and A2E1.

(Fig. 14) The pattern for the front of the trousers is ready. Let's get to the back part.

Building the back of the trousers pattern:

The construction is carried out on a ready-made drawing. We recommend taking a colored pencil in your hands so as not to get confused in the lines. We start again with t.A. To the left of it we set aside a segment equal to ½ AE + 2 cm and set the so-called. Up 2 cm from t.N we draw a perpendicular and set t.H1.

(Fig. 15) To the left of point C, set aside a segment equal to 1/24 (1/2OB), put point C3 and connect it with a straight line to point H1.

(Fig. 16) From p.C3 we set aside to the right a segment equal to 1/10 Ob - p.C4.

(Fig. 17) We extend to the left the line AA1 from t.N by ¼ From - 1 cm (here is the Italian offset of the side seam) + 2 cm (to the tuck) and put t.N2. From it we draw a perpendicular upwards by 1 cm and put t. H3, which we connect with t. H1.

(Fig. 18) Enter the reference point L, which is the point of intersection of the segments B1B2 and H1C3.

(Fig. 19) From point L to the left, we draw a segment equal to ¼OB and set point L1.
We connect the points H3, L1 with a pattern - we get the outer seam. We connect the points L, C4 - we get the middle seam.

(Fig. 20) The construction of the knee line and the bottom line on the pattern of the back is as follows: from the points D2, D3, F1, F2 in the direction of increase, set aside 1.5 cm and put the points G, G1, F3, F4. We connect the points L1, G, F3 and the points C4, G1, F4 with smooth lines. We get the inner and outer seams.

(Fig. 21) The tuck on the back half of the trousers is built on the H1H3 line. t.M - the middle of this line. We postpone from t.M on both sides 1 cm and down parallel to the line H1L 14 cm, we get points M1, M2 and N.

(Fig. 22) Now the main thing is to check the pattern. The length on both seams (inner and outer) on the front and back panel must be the same. To do this, we remove the pattern of the front of the trousers on tracing paper and put it on the pattern of the back of the trousers, combining the edges of the inner seams. Next, we shift the pattern until the line of the middle seam is aligned, and the back seam may be longer than the front. Then we act according to the same principle, combining the edges of the outer seams and shifting the pattern until the side points of the waist coincide.

Congratulations! The pattern of women's trousers is ready!

PANTS PATTERN BASIS. Video master class!

It will be built in two stages, and in finished form it will look something like this:

Front half - how to make a video pattern:

And of course, the back half, which is based on the front half:

Clothing constructor

Good day, dear readers! Just as it is difficult to imagine a person living in the conditions of modern civilization who does not have at least one pair of shoes, it is impossible to imagine a man who does not have trousers. Therefore, we will not talk about the importance of this type of clothing. Let's just say that if you have a pattern-the basis of men's trousers, you have in your hands a kind of "key to all doors": after all, with its help you can create absolutely any type of men's belt clothing (that is, what is worn on the lower part of the body ) - from classic and sports trousers to jeans and shorts. Modern men's fashion is diverse, and every representative of the strong half of humanity - regardless of age, build and individual preferences - can find a suitable style for themselves. Today we will share with you the secrets of designing men's trousers. Well, let's start, according to the established tradition, with a short digression into history. So,

History of trousers classical style

Men's suit of the classical style (or the so-called "English cut"), similar in its principles to the modern one, appeared already in the second half of the 19th century. At the same time, a rational wardrobe similar to the modern one was formatted and approved. menswear. The most widespread among all types of other clothing since the beginning of the 20th century was the suit, consisting of a jacket, vest and trousers, which acquired stable shapes and lines and became a classic type of men's clothing of the 20th century. Over the next decades classic views men's clothing, and trousers among them, depending on the prevailing fashion, underwent certain changes (sometimes very insignificant in some seasons).

At the very beginning of the 20th century, to change fashionable image men were greatly influenced by changing living conditions - the development various kinds sports, distribution of cars, airplanes, motorcycles. For sports and new activities, new, more appropriate costumes were created, the forms of which provided much greater freedom of movement, and the image conducive to greater ease of behavior.

So, we offer you a retrospective look at the fashion that has touched men's trousers within the last century*.

20s

By the end of the 1920s, the shape of the trousers, in comparison with the beginning of the century, became more straight, even along the entire length, the narrowing of the shape from top to bottom disappears, the vertical of the rigidly ironed fold is accentuated. Separate sharp shapes and curves of the figure are leveled, smoothed out: the waist is less emphasized, the hint of roundness in the abdomen disappears - the entire silhouette of the suit approaches a rectangle, and the shape of the trousers also contributes to this.

30s

During the early 1930s, trousers become wider from top to bottom, more spacious and are laid with soft folds at the waistline, in addition, they lengthen to the heel. The width of the trousers is hidden by more and more rigidly ironed vertical folds, which make their shape narrower, flattened in front, but wide and straight in profile. By the end of the 1930s, trousers were becoming rigid rectangular shapes.

40s

The most characteristic fashion trend of the 40s was the increase in the width of the trousers from top to bottom, their increasing spaciousness. At the end of this trend, their width at the bottom reached 30 cm or more. They gave the impression of a common large and static mass and resembled "two skirts". The entire male costume of this period as a whole was characterized by the predominance of masculinity and strength in the images, it was distinguished by its clarity, militarization of forms.

50s

Since the end of the 1940s, the masses and forms of clothing have been decreasing, fabrics have been lightened, lengths have been shortened, and widths have decreased. In the 1950s, trousers that were still loose at the top gradually narrowed down, fitting the legs. Their average width along the bottom was recommended 22.5 cm, and at the knee - 2.5 cm wider. They are slightly shortened so that the colored socks are visible, and this further facilitates their shape. The folds of the trousers are rigidly and strictly ironed.

It is worth noting that in real life this transition from loose-fitting trousers to skinny ones was carried out slowly and gradually: men were then more conservative in fashion, and at that time it was also a consequence of economic difficulties. Therefore, men in old-fashioned, baggy suits with wide trousers in the form of "two skirts" continued to appear for a long time, until the mid-50s, along with others dressed in completely different fashionable uniforms.

However, the youth of the 50s, having picked up the trend of narrowing trousers, is carried away by it to the extreme, and by the end of the 50s. trousers reach down to 20 cm or less at the bottom, turning into pipes that are tight-fitting legs. So, for example, young sailors who wanted to look fashionable in the 1940s sewed in, and in the 1960s plucked wedges from their uniform trousers, violating the established standard for their width. It was during this period of time that the term “dandies” appeared, which was fixed for those who followed the fashion unusually boldly for that time.

60s

In the 1960s, there was a significant change in the criteria of aesthetics and culture of men's clothing - expediency, convenience, and comfort became the leading principles. And in search of these principles, bold and irreversible innovations are taking place - fashion designers borrow elements for a men's suit from work, sports, and even women's clothing relinquishing past prejudices.

So "Texas", later called jeans, for a long time were working clothes - practical, reliable and comfortable. Their second birth took place just in the 60s of the XX century, and jeans became one of the most significant fashion discoveries. The functionality and sporty dynamic style of jeans was emphasized by a tight-fitting cut for legs and hips, decorative stitching of all details, metal rivets, and original pockets. Skillfully placed and decorated pockets accentuated those parts of the body below the waist that were not so openly revealed by the costume before.

In the second half of the 60s, the trousers lengthen, reach the middle of the back of the boot, their bottom line is beveled - they are shorter in front by 1-15 cm. In addition, they become less narrow and straight from the knee to the bottom (average width - 23 cm). top lineThe trousers fall from the waist to the hips, tightly fitting them and releasing a slender waist.

Due to the fact that fashion now offered a diverse range of shoulder clothing - jackets, blouses, pullovers, turtlenecks - a jacket loses its compulsion even in a business suit. And, as a result, more attention began to be paid to trousers, as an independent element of clothing (their shape, finish, details). The silhouette of trousers by the end of the 60s began to acquire a trend of expansion from the knee down.

70s

In the early 70s men's fashion there were still two styles - classic and sporty, and two silhouettes - semi-adjacent and straight. The trousers still fit tightly around the hips, widen at the bottom (from 21-23 cm to 27-30 cm) and lengthen, covering the heels of the shoes. In addition, 4-5 cm wide cuffs that weight down the bottom of the trousers appear. Legs in flared trousers help to emphasize narrow hips and, in general, we can say that the classic suit of the early 70s has a youthful character. In addition, silhouette legs are additionally lengthened due to shoes with thick soles and high heels, like in women.

By the mid-70s, the overall volume of clothing increased slightly, and the forms softened. The trousers are already expanding downwards a little less, they are already loose-fitting rather than flared, with a more relaxed, even shape along the entire length, with a tight fit along the hips and the waistline in a natural place. Yes, and the shoes are returning to the classic parameters.

By the end of the 70s, the trousers become a little shorter and narrower from the hips down, and one or two folds are laid from the belt. Width at the bottom from 24 to 28 cm, depending on height.

80s

In the 80s, the classic version of the suit was dominated by straight, fairly wide trousers, most often with soft folds at the waist. IN sports style a variant of trousers appears, baggy at the top (the volume was also created using folds at the waist) with a pronounced narrowing down - the so-called "bananas".

90s

In the 90s, with the rise of grunge and the increasing popularity of rap and hip-hop, the fashion for baggy trousers flourished, as well as trousers of incredible width with a very low rise, revealing the belt of underwear. Also one of the popular models are cargo pants - military-style trousers with numerous patch pockets. In the early 90s, in the classic version, the trousers are still quite voluminous and retain folds at the waist; by the end of the decade, their width gradually decreases, keeping the silhouette straight from the hip.

2000s

The first decade of the new century is difficult to characterize by any single stable trend, there is a frequent change of styles. Not without some bright touches, of course. For example, a model of women's pants with a very low crotch seam (forming a kind of "crotch" between the legs) migrated to the men's wardrobe by the middle of the 2000s. However, few hurried to take advantage of such a novelty - mainly advanced youth. ABOUT classic trousers we can only mention that their width is no longer strictly regulated, but throughout the decade it remained very moderate. Folds can be found only in rare copies, and it is recommended to iron the trousers of the trousers.

Modern trousers

So, what options does fashion provide for men now, in the second half of the 10s of the 21st century? These are the most diverse models of trousers, their width at the bottom in the “calm” version of models straight from the hip or knee can vary from 22 to 26 cm. given the elasticity of the fabrics used, it can be 20 centimeters or less.

So, let's give examples of some types of trousers, the names of which can be found in the men's clothing catalogs of our days.

Pants that are part of a classic suit now rarely have pleats at the waist. Basically, taking into account the age difference of the category of men wearing such suits, these are models that are straight from the hip, sitting quite tightly on the hips with an average fit along the waistline. In more youthful casual style suits, trousers are becoming narrower and shorter, taking on the appearance of pipes already well known to us from the 50s of the last century.

You can also often find such a name for trousers as " slacks "- literally it can be translated as "lazy", but in modern English there is such a translation of this word as "wide trousers". However, this term does not always mean wide trousers, but refers mainly to trousers that are not part of a suit and are a relaxed version of regular dress pants. Slacks look more casual than dress pants, very often do without ironed arrows at all, and you can combine not only business things with them.

Chinos , like slacks, are not a specific model, but they also have a number of features that make it possible to identify them among other types of trousers. These are colored trousers, most often sewn from 100% cotton (but given the current trends towards cheaper production, they are also found from mixed fabrics). The cut can vary, but according to modern trends, it is also usually tapered. Other distinctive features are slanted pockets on the front and welt pockets on the back.

Whatever the model of trousers is called, skinny models are at the peak of popularity, and if a taut figure allows, you can choose both a classic and a casual version in such a silhouette. For those who have a more solid physique, or those who, due to their age, are not suited to the pursuit of every trendy trend, there is an option to choose trousers with a straighter and calmer silhouette, and at the same time also look stylish and timely!

So, let's get down to what we have gathered today - to build a basic pattern for men's trousers.

Building a pattern for the base of men's trousers

Required measurements and other quantities

In order to build a pattern, we need the following figure measurements:

Distance from the waistline to the plane of the seat Ds - measured from the side in a sitting position from the waist line to the horizontal plane of the seat.
Hip girth About- measured at the level of the most protruding points of the buttocks horizontally around the torso, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen (for this, a flexible plate is placed behind the tape around the waist line, positioning it vertically to the stomach and when measuring, a centimeter tape is drawn over it).
Waist From - measured horizontally around the body at the level of the waist line.
Inner leg length day ** - measure the distance from the crotch to the floor along the inner surface of the leg with the legs slightly apart.

** In fact, instead of leg length Dn ,you can use:
1 ) measure waist to floor distance Dsb(measured from the side!);
2 ) or immediately ask what you need pants length dB from the waistline (which is less convenient and, for the most part, subjective, so how it can still be determined - a little later ...)

The entire base grid of the drawing of trousers is based on these measurements, therefore, if you imagine how the lines of this grid correspond to the lines of a human figure, it will be easy for you to remember and logically reproduce the sequence of construction, and also to imagine how the shape of the trousers will change when the increments and relative position change the main horizontal lines of the grid.

In addition, you will also need to set this parameter:

Pants width at the bottom shn

As we saw in our retrospective review, bottom pants width- the value is not constant, and largely depends on the fashion. We want to have basic pattern , which can be taken as a basis for modeling a variety of styles of trousers. Therefore, in our example of construction, we take the average value of the width of the trousers at the bottom - 25 cm. Given this parameter, we can get a pattern of moderate straight trousers, and from it, by certain transformations, you, if desired, will get a pattern of any other - narrow or wide - trousers.

The length of the trousers also depends on the width of the trousers at the bottom - because, depending on the degree of fit of the leg, distance from the line of the bottom of the trousers to the floor Rnp will be different.

And now it's the same a little bit later”, which we talked about when we said that when building the base grid, we can use the length of the pants dB : The length of the pants from the waistline can be obtained as the distance from the waistline to the floor Dsb minus Rnp

Db \u003d Dsp - Rnp

And the value of the quantity distance from the line of the bottom of the trousers to the floor Rnp you can choose based on the width of the trousers:

For wide trousers (Shn = 28-32cm) Rnp = 3-4 cm
Dl moderate trousers (Shn = 24-27cm) Rnp = 5-6 cm
For narrow trousers (Shn = 20-23cm) Rnp = 7-8 cm

Let's repeat again: no need to measure and Chipboard , And day …. enough to measure one thing!

Building a pattern of trousers

So, now the most interesting: consider EXAMPLE building a drawing on a figure with the following parameters:

Ds =26.6 cm
About= 102 cm
From = 84 cm
day = 85.8 cm (or Dsb =116.4 cm)

Additionally we use:

Shn = 25 cm.

Accordingly, with such values of the width of the trousers and the distance from the waistline to the floor, we can immediately determine the estimated length of the trousers using the formula:

db = dsb – Rnp = 116,4 – 5 = 111.4 cm

We will also need Increases :

to the hips: Psb = 1 cm
to the half-circumference of the waist: Pst = 0.5 cm

That is, to the real girths in our example, the increase will be: along the hips - 2 cm, and along the waist line - 1 cm.

In fact, the increase in the hips when building on older figures, as well as figures of greater fullness *** can be increased to Psb = 2 cm.

*** Under " completeness » in male figures, the difference between chest girth Og and waist circumference From . The smaller this difference (it can also be negative), the greater the completeness.

Slightly increase the gain on the hipsPsb makes sense when the value of the total difference is less than 10 cm. So, although the measureOg and is not used directly when constructing a drawing of trousers, it will not be superfluous to measure it! Recall that the girth of the chest is measured (the one that interests us - the so-called "third") at the level of the nipple points horizontally around the body.

Building a drawing grid

So, what the basic grid looks like - you could already imagine thanks to the drawing presented above. Let us explain its construction in a little more detail, and so that we have it before our eyes, we present it again:

Draw a vertical line - trouser fold line. This will be the line along which the arrows on the trousers are ironed if they are provided for in your model.

Mark a point on this line T and draw a line through it. It will be waistline the front half of the pants.

from point T set aside the measurement along the fold line down Ds(distance from the waist line to the plane of the seat) and mark the point W. Draw a line through a point W- it will be stride line .

For example: TS=26.6 cm

The next drawing grid point is a point H, indicating the position of the horizontal bottom lines . You can get it in two ways (depending on what measure you "stocked" - day or Chipboard):

from the point W down, lay the length of the leg along the inner surface day and mark the point H(in this case, you will need to specify the length of the finished trousers when trying on), or ....
from the point T down the length of the trousers Dl and mark the point H.

For example: SHN= 85.8 cm, or TN=111.4 cm

Divide the segment SHN in half and mark a point 5 cm above the resulting point TO. Through the dot TO draw a horizontal line - this will be the approximate level of the knees.

For example: NK\u003d 84.8 / 2 + 5 \u003d 47.2 cm

from point W set aside ¼ measurements Ds and mark the point B. Drawn through a point B the horizontal will hip line .

For example: SB\u003d 26.6 / 4 \u003d 6.7 cm

Building the front of the trousers

To the left of the dot W on step lines mark a point Ш1at a distance equal to Ob / 12 + 0.5 cm.

For example: SHSH1\u003d 102/12 + 0.5 \u003d 9 cm

To the left of the dot Ш1 on step lines mark a point SH2 at a distance equal to about / 16-0.5 cm.

For example: Ш1Ш2\u003d 102 / 16-0.5 \u003d 5.9 cm

From a point Ш1 up draw a vertical line up. Mark its intersection with the line of the hips with a dot B1, and with a waist line - a dot T1.

from point T1 set aside 1 cm to the right along the waist line and put a dot T2.

Mark an auxiliary point Ш1" necessary to draw a smooth midline of the front. It is on the bisector of the angle Ш2Ш1Т1 at a distance of about 3 cm from the point Ш1. For large sizes(with a hip circumference of 110 or more) this value should be increased to approximately 3.5 cm.

SH2, Ш1", B1 And T2. It will be middle line the front of the trousers.

from point T2 along the waistline to the right, set aside a distance equal to From/4+Pst(Where Pst\u003d 0.5 cm - an increase along the waistline) and mark the point T3.

For example: T2T3\u003d 84 / 4 + 0.5 \u003d 21.5 cm

from point B1 along the line of the hips to the right, set aside a quarter of the girth of the hips and mark the point B2.

For example: B1B2\u003d R/4 \u003d 102 / 4 \u003d 25.5 cm

from point H along the line of the bottom of the trousers to the left and to the right, set aside half the measurements shn(pants width at the bottom) minus 1 cm and dot H1 And H2.

For example: HH1=HH2\u003d Wn / 2-1 \u003d 25 / 2-1 \u003d 11.5 cm

From points H1 And H2 draw vertical lines up to the intersection with the line of the knees and mark the points of intersection K1 And K2.

Spend sideline H2, K2, B2 And T3. At the same time: points H2 and K2 are connected by a straight line segment, in the section K2B2 the line has a deflection to the left by 0.5 cm, and then point B2 smoothly connects to point T3 (with a deflection to the right also about 0.5 cm).

Spend step line the front of the pants through the dots H1, K1,SH2. At the same time: points H1 and K1 are connected by a straight line segment, and in the section K1Sh2 the line has a deflection to the right by 1 cm.

So, we have received the detail of the front half of the trousers! Further construction of the contours of the back of the trousers is based on the same drawing.

Building the back of the pants

from point Ш1 to the right set aside a quarter of the distance SHSH1 and mark the point Sh3.

For example: SH1SH3=SHSH1/4=9/4=2.25 cm

From a point Sh3 draw the vertical up and mark its intersection with the line of the hips with a dot B3, and with the waistline - T4.

Along this vertical from the point B3 set aside a quarter of the distance B3T4 and mark with a dot B4.

For example: B3B4=B3T4/4\u003d 19.9 / 4 \u003d 5 cm

from point SH2 set aside half the distance to the left Ш1Ш2 and put a dot Ш4. from point Ш4 put down 0.5 cm - and get a point Ш5, the extreme point of the "bow" of the back half of the trousers.

For example: W1W4= W1W2/2= 5.9/2=3cm

Ш4Ш5= 0.5 cm

Set aside 2 cm along the waistline to the right - get a point T5, and another 2 cm up from the point T5- get a point T6.

Also mark an auxiliary point Ш3" necessary to draw a smooth midline of the back. It is on the bisector of the angle Ш4Ш3Т4 at a distance of about 4.5 cm from the point Sh3.

draw a smooth line through the dots Ш5, Ш3", B4 And T6. It will be middle line the back of the trousers.

Calculate the solution of the waist tuck on the back half of the trousers Vomit: it will be 15% of the difference between the hips and waist.

For example: Rip=0.15(Rev-From)=0.15*(102-84)=2.7cm

From a point T6 draw a cut- back waistline - until it intersects with the waist line of the front half, mark the point T7. Cut length Т6Т7 will be equal to a quarter of the circumference of the waist From plus a rear tuck solution.

For example: T6T7=From / 4 + Rvyt \u003d 84 / 4 + 2.7 \u003d 23.7 cm

In the middle of the segment Т6Т7 put an end to T8. from point T8 left and right set aside half of the solution of the back tuck Vomit/ 2 - these will be the edges of the tuck. And down perpendicular to the segment Т6Т7 from a point T8 set aside the length of the tuck (about 12 cm) - a point is obtained T8", top of the tuck. Connect the top of the tuck to its edges.

Along the line of the hips to the right of the point B3 take a quarter of the circumference of the hips plus an increase in the half circumference of the hips Psb in 1 cm, mark the point B5.

For example: B3B5=OB/4+Psb=102/4+1=26.5 cm

At the level of the knee line, set aside 1 cm to the left and right, respectively, from the points K1 And K2– received points K3 And K4.

And at the level of the bottom line, set aside 1 cm to the left and right, respectively, from the points H1 And H2– received points H3 And H4. Slightly bend the bottom line of the back half of the trousers between the points H3 And H4- about 1 cm down.

Spend sideline H4, K4, B5 And T7. In this case: dots H4 And K4 connected by a straight line, on the site K4B5 the line has a deflection to the left of about 1 cm, and then the point B5 smoothly connects to the point T7(with a small, no more than 0.5 cm deflection).

Spend step line the back of the pants through the dots H3, K3, Ш5. In this case: dots H3 And K3 are connected by a straight line segment, and on the site K3Sh5 the line has a deflection to the right by 1-1.5 cm.

The drawing of the back half of the trousers is ready!

Pants details

In theory, since we have drawings of the front and back halves of the trousers, then, in principle, it is already possible to sew trousers with a straight silhouette using them. But, in addition to the fact that you will need auxiliary details - such as a belt, pockets, codpiece - it will be necessary to adjust the contours of the main details themselves a little more. What will this adjustment be?

First of all, I would like to say that the pattern-base of the trousers that we have now received provides for the location of the line for attaching the belt of the trousers at the level of the waist line. What in real life NOT meets!!! Even if the trousers have a very “high” fit, the belt sewing line will in any case be 1-1.5 cm below the natural waist line.

And in the conditions modern fashion, the line of attaching the trouser belt can be located not only at the level of the ilium, but even lower. Thus, it is obvious that the waistline will need to be lowered.

Immediately, you will probably have a question: if you still have to lower the waistline, then why didn’t we do this right away when building the drawing? Naturally, we could take this into account, but in this case we would have to have at our disposal slightly different dimensions of the figure:

instead of waist From use the waist circumference at the level of the trouser belt Otb
determine how much the girth Otb is below the girth From - natural waistline (let's call this distance "belt position" Pp )
when determining the length of trousers dB through the measurement of the distance from the waist line to the floor Chipboard the value of the “belt position” should be taken into account: Db \u003d Dsp - Rnp - Pp
when constructing the basic grid, the segment TS determine also taking into account the "position of the belt": TS = Ds – Pp
the length of the tuck on the back half of the trousers is also shortened by an amount Pp

If you already have the same original drawing, just built according to the “original” measurements, then you will need to adjust the contours of the front and back halves of the trousers, lowering the waist line by the required amount Pp . As a rule, in classic trousers, the belt sewing line is located 4 cm below the natural waist level, since the width of the belt itself is 3.6 - 4 cm. The belt sewing line is marked on the front and back halves of the trousers with lines parallel to the corresponding sections of the waist line. How it will look is shown in the figure below.

The converted contours of the details of the front and back halves of the trousers are shown in this figure with a thick line.

Depending on the model of the trousers, other details may vary, but as an example, this figure shows the construction of some of them.

What else might be needed details :

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