Volumetric collar pattern. How to make a round collar

Construction of patterns of collars- this is a vast topic, the beginning of which I want to start with the simplest collar, namely, standing turn-down collar with fastener side to the top.

Such a collar has become widespread due to its simplicity in construction and classic shape.

Such collars are sewn on in almost all types of clothing - from blouses to coats.

According to the principle of constructing a pattern drawing, collars are divided into three groups:

1 - Standing: standing-turn-down and turn-down with a side fastener to the top and open.

2 - Turn-down for products with open sides.

3 - Flat-lying (undercut).

Stand-up collars with side fastening to the top (EMKO method):

2. From point O upwards, set aside 1.5 - 10 cm (raising the middle) and set point B.

4. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point 1) we build a perpendicular upwards, equal to 1 - 2.5 cm (depending on the rise of the OB) - point 2.
The greater the rise, the greater the deflection at point 1.

5. We draw a stitching line with a smooth curve through points B, 2 and A.

6. Rack height.

BB1 (up) = 2 - 3.5 cm

7. Collar width in the middle.

BB2 (up) = 8 - 14 cm

8. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

9. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

10. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. In its middle, A6A7 \u003d 1 - 1.5 cm.

11. We make out the departure line with a smooth curve.

The construction of the collar pattern can be slightly modified, depending on its width.

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There is such a separate group of collars as flat-lying. Or else they are called undercut.

They are called so because they hem and repeat the line of the neck, and the departure is made according to the model.

The principle of their construction is the same - it depends on the neck.

I will show this with an example below.

The construction of flat-lying collars is carried out according to the EMKO method.

To build a collar, we combine the back and front patterns along the shoulder lines so that the top of the neck of the back (point A2) coincides with the top of the neck of the front (point A4), and the points of the tops of the armholes P1 and P5 overlap each other by 1 - 1.5 cm.

With a larger approach, we increase the rise of the stand, we build the collar with closed tucks and shoulder lines.

The stitching line of the collar repeats the line of the neckline of the back and front.

The width of the collar at the back and at the ends, the shape of the departure is made according to the model.

A variety of flat-lying collars is achieved due to different cutouts of the necks and the shape of the collar fly-off.

There is one such collar, which looks majestic and beautiful, and is simple to disgrace.

This collar is a one-piece stand with a bodice and a tuck.

You can use it as blouses And dresses, so on jackets And coat.

Especially often such a collar is built on wedding bolero.

Such a rack is built on an expanded neck.

Neck extension:

A2-O (right) \u003d A4-C (left) \u003d 0.5 - 1.5 cm.

To build the back, connect point A with point O with a straight line.

From point A and point O to straight O-A up we restore the perpendiculars on which we set aside the height of the rack:

A-O1 \u003d O-O2 \u003d 3 - 4.5 cm.

We connect the points O1 and O2 with a smooth line, smoothly transfer the point O2 into the line of the shoulder.

If the middle of the back is intact, then the point O2 is shifted to the right by the amount O1-O11, and the resulting point O21 is smoothly connected to the line of the shoulder.

We take the excess width of the neck into the tuck along the neck. The shape of the tuck, its location is determined by the model and body features.

In general, the tuck is located in the middle A-O distances, its solution is approximately 1 cm, length = two rack heights.

When constructing the front rack, we connect point C and point A5 (A6) with a straight line, and from point C and A5 (A6) we restore perpendiculars, on which we plot the height of the rack and get points C1 and C2.

We connect point C1 with point C2 with a smooth line - the upper cut of the front strut.

If the front is one-piece, then we draw its middle line vertically, and draw the neck in the same way as on the back, while C1-C11 \u003d C2-C21.

We take the excess width of the neckline in front into a tuck (we draw it up in the same way as on the back).

You can do a tuck, or you can do without it.

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In one of my previous posts, I talked about collar on a deep neck in a product with a clasp .

In the same post I want to talk about the construction of a similar collar, but only without a fastener in front.

This collar differs from the previous one in that it contains no rack He lies flat on his back.

Although ... you can modify this pattern, and add a stand on the back - this is also possible.

But now is not about that.

Construction of a collar on a deep neck in a product without a fastener (according to the EMKO method):

1. From point A5 downwards, set aside the value of the deepening of the neck A5-L - according to the model.

2. We connect point A4 with point L.

3. From point A4 upwards on the continuation of the straight line L-A4, set aside the length of the neck of the back - set point B.

4. From point A4, with a radius equal to:
R \u003d A4-B to the right we draw an arc on which we set aside the height of the rack B-B1 \u003d 2 - 2.5 cm.

We connect point B1 with point A4, and restore the perpendicular from point B1 to the left.
We set aside the width of the collar at the back B1-B2, which is equal to twice the height of the stand (which is equal to 1 - 1.5 cm), which means:

B1B2 = 2 * stand height + (1 - 1.5 cm) = 5 - 6.5 cm

5. We lengthen the collar along the flight.
B2-B3 = 1cm
We connect point B3 with point B1 and continue this line 0.5 cm to the right - put point B4.

6. We draw a line for stitching the collar into the neck:

a) We connect point A4 with point B4 with a smooth line.
b) Divide the segment V-L in half - put the point B5.
c) To the left of point B5, we restore the perpendicular along which we set aside a segment equal to B5-B6 \u003d 1.5 cm
d) Through points B4, A4, B6, L we draw a line for stitching the collar into the neck.

7. We make out the departure line according to the model.

Such a pretty collar can turn out:

There is such a wonderful collar as turn-down collar on a deep neck with a fastener.

It will be discussed in today's post.

Why is he good?

Yes, it is not noticeable by anything special, it’s just that there is such a collar, and I want to talk a little about it.

You don't see him as often as, for example, english collar, but not that rare either.

The collar looks better on dense fabric.

It stands a little at the back, but towards the front it is flat.

These collars look great on blouses and dresses.

Construction of a turn-down collar on a deep neck with a fastener (according to the EMKO method):

1. We lower the neck A5-A6 = 10 - 13 cm.

2. We connect point A6 with point A4 with a straight line.

3. We divide the segment A4-A6 in half, the division point is a.

4. Deflection in the middle of the segment A4-A6 to the right and to the left by 1.5 cm.

a-a1 (left) = 1.5 cm
a-a2 (right) = 1.5 cm

5. We continue the line A6-a1-A4 up and set aside the length of the back neck from point A4, set point Z1.

6. From point A4 we draw an arc to the left, with a radius equal to:
R = A4-Z1

7. Set aside 3.5 - 5 cm along the arc to the left, and set the point Z2.

8. We draw the stitching line through points Z2, A4, a2, A6.

9. З2-З4 - collar width according to the model.

10. We make out the departure line and the ends of the collar according to the model.

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Below is pattern of a stand-up collar for products with a combined fastener to the top and open to the style.

These collars are most widely used in shirt-style blouses and dresses.

What is its feature?

And the peculiarity is that, unlike turn-down collar patterns with a slight rise, this collar has a one-piece stand and looks good, both buttoned up and when unbuttoned.

The pattern of the stand-up collar is built as follows:

1. We build an angle at point O.

2. From the point O upwards, set aside a segment equal to 2 cm, and set the point B.

3. From point B, set aside a distance equal to 3 - 3.5 cm (rack height), and
set point B1.

4. From point B, set aside a distance equal to 8 - 10 cm (collar width), and set point B2.

5. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R \u003d VA \u003d neck length - (minus) 0.05 * OB

7. From point A upwards, set aside a distance equal to OB2.

8. Distance A3A4 - according to the model.

9. The collar stitching line touches the OA line at point (A1), located at a distance of 1/3 of the OA segment, from point A to the left.

We circle the collar along the control points.

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Described below construction of a turn-down collar pattern with a slight rise in the middle.

It is built in almost the same way as this collar.

And yes, they look very similar.

There is only one small distinguishing feature - they have a different rise of the rack.

Such a collar is sewn in the same way as that one, in almost any kind of clothing. Only now, probably, in a coat less often.

The construction of a turn-down collar (EMKO method) looks like this:

We make out the stitching line with a slight bulge to the ends of the collar.

1. We draw a right angle with a vertex at point O.

2. Set aside 2 cm from point O upwards (raising the middle) and set point B.

3. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R \u003d VA \u003d neck length - (minus) 0.05 * OB

4. Connect points A and B with a straight line.
We divide this line into three equal parts: AA1 \u003d Bv \u003d AB / 3

5. Aa = AA1/2

6. Draw perpendiculars from points (c) and (a).
From point a down the perpendicular we set aside 0.2 - 0.3 cm.
From a point in upward along the perpendicular, we set aside 0.4 - 0.5 cm.

7. Rack height.

BB1 (up) = 2 - 3.5 cm

8. Collar width in the middle.

BB2 (up) = 8 - 14 cm

9. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

10. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

11. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. In its middle, A6A7 \u003d 0.5 cm.

12. We draw a stitching line with a smooth curve through points B, B1, A1, A1 and A.

And the collar pattern looks like this:

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I was arranging folders on the computer, and I found such interesting collars.

There are a lot of them here, and maybe even small, but maybe someone will come in handy.

As you know, fashion is cyclical, and if these collars are not in fashion today, this does not mean that they will not be in demand in 5-10 years.

This is me to the fact that you don’t need to write that they are too old-fashioned - everything is back in fashion! Stand collar for men's shirt .

Below is a pattern of perhaps the most common collar - shirt collar.

And it's not even that important. women's shirt or male - building one.

According to various methods, it, of course, differs, but this construction (the EMKO method) is quite successful even (although there are some angularities and shortcomings).

The shirt collar pattern consists of the collar itself and the stand.

Construction of a collar pattern:

1. We build an angle at point O.

2. From point O upwards, lay off a segment equal to 7 - 8 cm, and set point B.

3. From point B, set aside a distance equal to 6 - 8 cm (collar width), and set point B2.

4. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R \u003d VA \u003d neck length - (minus) 0.05 * OB

5. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point c) we build a perpendicular up and down, along which we set aside 1.5 cm in both directions, and set points c1 and c2.

6. At point B we build a right angle.
BB1 \u003d AA2 \u003d 3 - 4 cm.

We draw the bottom of the rack parallel to the top. We complete the ledge, equal to the width of the half-skid. The corner can be rounded or left at an angle - according to the model.

The width of the collar in front and the design of the ends according to the model.

7. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

8. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

9. We connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. In its middle, A6A7 \u003d 1 - 1.5 cm.

10. We make out the departure line with a smooth curve.

Happy building and sewing!

It consists of two parts - the stand and the collar itself.

In general, everyone has this advice: if you want to cut out a collar, and don’t know how to do it, which collar better fit, and you don’t want to cut the fabric, it’s best to cut the collar you like from the dummy fabric (fabric that you don’t feel sorry for cutting, it’s better to choose the most suitable texture), and figure out how you like its shape and how it lies.

In this case, you will not spoil the fabric, and you will be able to evaluate the collar

Quite often you can see shawl collar in clothes.

Such a collar is in demand in blouses, and in dresses, and even in coats, although, probably, such a collar can most often be seen in a dressing gown.

The shawl collar looks very dignified, and can be made from almost any fabric.

Pattern also does not represent anything complicated, and is built very quickly.

Construction of a shawl collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to A4-B \u003d 2 - 3 cm.

2. We connect points B and L, at the intersection with the neck line we put point F.

3. From point A4 on the continuation of the line A3-A4 to the left, set aside a value equal to the length of the neck of the back, and set point O.

4. From point O, we raise the perpendicular to the line A4-O upwards, along which we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar \u003d 4 cm - for stooped figures, 6 cm - for kinky ones, and we get point B3.

5. We connect points B3 and A4.

6. From point B3 perpendicular to B3-A4, draw a line in the middle of the collar.

7. Rack Height:
B3-B2 \u003d A4-B \u003d 2 - 3 cm.

8. Set aside the departure width according to the model, but not less than B3-B2 + (3 - 4 cm), and get the point B4.

9. We make out the departure line according to the model.

Shawl collar in clothes:

presented below and does not represent anything complicated and scary.

So there is no need to be so afraid, but you can just read carefully and everything will become clear.

Where can we see the apache collar?

Most often it is blouses and bathrobes.

But such a collar can often be seen on a wedding bolero.

So, if you decide to sew a wedding bolero, then take note of such a collar.

He classical and looks appropriate on many models.

This is, so to speak, a classic that never goes out of style.

Apache collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside the height of the rack A4-B = 3 cm.

2. We connect the points L and B, at the intersection with the neckline we put the point F.

3. Continue L-B line up and set aside from point B the length of the neck of the back - set point B1.

4. From the point Ф we draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to Ф-В1, along the arc to the left we set aside the segment В1-В2 \u003d 5 cm.

5. We connect point B with point B2 with a straight line and perpendicular to it from point B2 draw the line of the middle of the collar up and down.

6. From point B2 to the left on the line of the middle of the collar, we postpone the segment:
B2-B3 \u003d A4-B \u003d 3 cm, and to the right B2-B4 \u003d departure width according to the model.

7. The position of the front end of the collar.
Point C - according to the model.

8. The line of departure and the edge of the collar to the line of inflection L-B are drawn according to the model.

9. We draw the line for stitching the collar into the neck through point B3 tangentially to the neck, while A4-A41 \u003d 0.5 - 0.8 cm.

This apache collar pattern may change slightly, depending on the height of the stand.

You can make a turn-down rack:

And you can make it so that the collar stands at the back, and only its ends are bent:

And you can even do something in between the two options described above:

There is a whole group of collars called "fantasy".

Fantasy collars are obtained by breeding a flat-lying collar of any shape.

These include the collar, which will be discussed below - this is the “kokilje” collar.

It is usually built on recessed neck.

I will give the construction according to the EMKO method.

It is best to make a “kokilje” collar from silk fabrics, because. they will flow and lie very beautifully.

Its construction and pattern is very simple.

A2-B1 = 10cm

A5-O = 9 cm or more

We translate the collar pattern from the drawing, draw lines of cuts on it, divide the pattern into 8 parts, along which we cut the pattern from the departure side and push it apart.

The amount of spreading depends on the thickness and structure of the fabric, and can vary from 10 to 20 cm.

We draw the departure line with a smooth line so that the collar is beautifully laid in the coattails; it should be cut out along the oblique thread to the middle of the collar, i.e. to the line A-B at an angle of 45 degrees.

Most often, such collars can be seen on blouses made in a romantic style, but coats with such collars can also be found:

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Women's collars can be completely different in shape and content.

For different types clothing and for different fabrics. For each you can find a collar, as they say "your own".

Some time ago I wrote about collar collar. The pattern of which was a simple rectangle.

It was the simplest collar.

Not so long ago, I found so many female collar collars that my eyes lit up!

So many ideas! So many models!

Such collars are more suitable for soft, easily draped fabrics. Preferably not strongly wrinkled, but better not wrinkled at all.

They look great on knitwear.

These models are true women's collars endowed with grace and charm.

This is a real find in some sense of the word.

Before, I didn’t know what to come up with knitwear. Didn't know what collar to make.
The uniformity is tired, but it just saves.

Indeed, by sewing on different collars, clothing models will look completely different.

That is, using one base (say, for a badlon, for example), you can do a lot different models. And then I had a problem before - all badlons with ordinary racks.

Tired already.

Now there is something to do, and there is where to roam

Still, women's collars are not men's, there are so many of them

And that's just collars!

If someone has the same problem as me, then you can also solve it as well as I did.

There is one such wonderful collar - a "collar" or, as it is also called a "collar".

This collar looks pretty impressive.

Still need to say a little bit about fabrics!

In such a collar, it is very important what fabric is used.

Fabrics should be (preferably) wrinkle-resistant, easy to drape, so that they fit nicely and do not cling.

Perhaps this is such a feature of this collar, and special attention should be paid to this.

Construction of a collar pattern "collar":

1. Cut out in the shape of a rectangle.

2. We place the stitching line into the neck at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp threads, while expanding the neck according to the model.

3. Rack height OB = AA1 = 4.5 cm or more.

4. OA = neck length

The depth of the neck for this stand can be increased, and accordingly, the length of the collar too.

Collar pattern "collar":

Such a stand is used mainly in light clothing: blouses, dresses, badlons, etc.

Here are just a few examples:

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Today I want to talk about pattern of a narrow one-piece rack and its pattern.

First, what kind of collar is this and whether it is a collar.

The stand is one-piece, without darts, and therefore it is cut narrow.

This is such a peculiar collar, although it is narrow.

It is very rare where it occurs, but there are such models.

I don't like him very much.

There is another one-piece stand, but it is darted and wider.

Building a pattern of a one-piece rack:

A narrow one-piece stand with a bodice up to 4.5 cm high is built on the drawing of the neck of the back and shelves.

On the back:

1. From point A upwards, set aside a distance equal to the height of the rack = 3 cm, and set point 2.

2. From point A2 up and to the left we draw an arc with a radius of 3 cm.

3. Through point A2 we draw a vertical up to the intersection with the resulting arc - we get point A7.

4. In an arc to the left of point A7, set aside a distance equal to 1 - 1.5 cm, and set point 1.

5. We connect points 1 and 2 with a smooth line, and point A7 with the shoulder cut of the back.

On the front:

1. We continue the line of the shoulder cut to the right, and on its continuation we postpone
A4a21 = 3 cm.

2. From point A4 with a radius of 3 cm, we draw an arc upwards and from point a21 set aside 1 - 1.5 cm - we get point a22.

3. We connect point a22 with a smooth line with point A4.

4. From point A6 we draw a vertical along which we set aside 3 cm - we get point a23.

5. We connect the points a23 and a22 with a smooth line.

One-piece stand-up collar pattern with bodice:

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Miracle Collar funnel shaped stand presented below in all its glory!

What kind of collar is this and where is it used?

This is a very beautiful collar, but only very impractical, and for such impracticality it can be found in few places.

Basically, it's some carnival costumes or simply products intended for special occasions.

Its peculiarity is that this collar is very different from all its counterparts.

Differs in form.

But he is, and even sometimes found, so why not make a pattern for him?

Construction of a stand-up collar of the "funnel" type:

1. We build a right angle with a center at point O.

2. From point O upwards, set aside a distance equal to 2 - 4 cm (or more - according to the model), and set point B.

3. From point B, set aside the height of the rack \u003d 3 - 4 cm, and we get point B1.

4. From point B, with a radius equal to the length of the neck (approximately 21 cm), we make a notch on the straight line O - we get point A.

5. Connect points B and A with a straight line. We divide this segment in half and put point 1.

The flat-lying collar lies flat at the neckline and is characterized by little or no stand-up. This type of collar is most often used on children's clothing, bouzas and dresses, jackets and coats.

The design of a flat-lying collar is carried out directly on the combined front and back of the product with a slight overlap of shoulder sections in the armhole area. To do this, the tops of the neck are combined at points A 1 and A 2, and the end shoulder points P 1 and P 2 should overlap each other by 1-3 cm.

Thanks to this construction, the length of the collar is maximum, so the collar lies flat on the product.

To build a collar, the chest tuck on the shelf should be transferred to the side seam or to the waistline.

The stitching line of the collar exactly repeats the line of the neckline of the back and front.

The width of the collar and the departure line (its shape) is determined by the model.

Pattern of a flat-lying collar with rounded ends

1. Temporarily transfer the tuck to the bulge of the chest to any section of the front, for example, to the side.

2. Attach the back to the front, aligning the shoulder sections at the neckline and overlapping them at the armhole by 1-1.5 cm.

3. On the drawing basic foundation expand the neckline along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 2 cm, in the middle of the back - by 1 cm. Draw a new neckline at a right angle to the middle of the back.

4. Draw a collar with a departure width of 6 cm in accordance with the drawing.

5. To improve the fit of the collar, lower the front middle section of the collar 0.7 cm below the front neckline.

6. Copy the collar from the front and back drawing.

Below is detailed video how to sew a flat collar.

Collar patterns.
The shape of the collar and its correct processing affects appearance products. By changing the outlines of the visible upper part, as well as the dimensions of the rack, you can get different variants collars.

There are three main groups of collars:

Flat-lying, the difference between which is a small stand or no stand at all (suitable for children's and women's clothing);

Stand-up turn-down, the most common group of universal collars;

Stand-up collars, without a turn-down part, differ in the height of the stand, as well as the design of its ends.

Processing depends on the cut (one-piece, set-in) and style. They are cut out from the finishing fabric or the fabric of the product.

The collar consists of 2 parts - this is the upper and lower, however, there may be single (straight stand). The upper collar is cut from a whole piece of fabric or with one seam in the middle. And the lower one can be cut out from several pieces of fabric, if necessary, but it must necessarily coincide with the upper collar in the direction of the thread.

Collars are made with and/or without padding, depending on the fabric. For it, a fusible sealant or thin cotton fabric is used. You can cut the lining from the same fabric as the main product when it is thin and transparent. It is more convenient to sew collars when only the shoulder seams are sewn and processed. You can easily unfold the product and carefully stitch the collar.

Patterns of collars of various shapes.

To make a collar pattern, you will need a sheet of paper with a coordinate grid (graph paper), a ruler, a centimeter tape, a pattern for smooth pairing of two points and a pencil. The pattern is made in half size along the fold line of the collar, if it is symmetrical, and in full size, if the collar is figured and its right and left sides are different in shape.

Round flat collar:

Turn-down collar:

Apache Collar:

Dress Collar:

One-piece high stand collar:

Stand Collar:

Stand collar:

Collar pattern with one-piece stand:

Jacket Collar:

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will analyze one of the most interesting and extensive design topics - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). For this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it with rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our site, select " basic pattern dresses" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly build your individual pattern, you can print it even on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let's start our "dive" into the topic of modeling collars with the most simple and understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand collars are built in the same sequence, only they have different values ​​\u200b\u200band line configurations. Collars can be with rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end to end, more or less close to the neck. The clasp can be located both in front and behind.

Let's now analyze the construction of the stand collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example, 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and set aside this value in a straight line. To prevent the stand from moving away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the tighter the stand will fit to the neck). Now we set the desired height of the rack (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our collar - the stand. Remember to keep the rack height constant! A blue control notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will align it with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand collar as on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the neck of the back minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the rack according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And draw a beautiful stand! Also, do not forget to check the height of the rack.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. Such a cut of the collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts in the line of the stand.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the value by which one part of the shelf will go behind the other). Usually it is about 2 cm for the central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to expand the neck of the shelf and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. We connect the points obtained with lines (red).

We determine the height of the rack. In the example with a one-piece stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder cut it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back, we set aside the height of the stand on the continuation of the line, and in the area of ​​the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition of the collar to the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we correct the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw the upper cut of the rack, rounding in front.

Now next in line flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder tuck on the back and the chest tuck on the shelf into the armhole line - it is much more convenient to draw a flat lying collar. Now we put the back part on the shelf, leading 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. Determine the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! On the middle seam of the back we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), slightly less along the shoulder seam (4.5-5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has something with such a collar. Most often they can be found in shirts. To simplify the sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar as on a blue blouse. As in the stand collars, we initially draw the length of the neckline minus 0.5 cm in a straight line. From one edge (where the middle seam of the back will be) to set the necessary bend of the bottom line of the collar, set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the value of the stand (2, 5 - 3 cm), and the so-called "back collar width" (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up, (there may be other values ​​\u200b\u200bdepending on the height of the stand and the width of the departure you have chosen). And we try according to the pattern, we draw a collar !!! The rack can be either detachable or one-piece (Figure 6).

Collar cut shawl. These collars are very effective and not laborious in comparison with jacket collars. The upper collar is cut together with the selection, which greatly simplifies the whole work. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we advise you to start with just such a model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache.

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as on the first model. First, let's set the bead width to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, according to the model, you need to determine the depth of the cut and put a point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - set point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the inflection line of the collar (red). Now we measure the length of the neck of the back and with the help of a compass from point a, we make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the neck of the back.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c tangentially set off the value of the collar departure plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the width of the departure is 6 cm, then the segment cd \u003d 6.8 cm). Point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, we finish the line on the neck - we get the lower cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl departure perpendicular to the lower cut of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last action is to draw a smooth line of the upper cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's see what details we got in the end (Figure 8).

Pickup. We need to draw the inner line of the selection, to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), we draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and finish at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. We transfer the part onto a separate sheet of paper along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the transition area of ​​the pick-up to the facing of the back (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer pick-up lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is made detachable. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The shelf is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket type collars. Such collars are made of four parts - the lower and upper collars and two rack parts. Sometimes the racks are made in one piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the shelf. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with great care, otherwise the appearance of the entire product will be spoiled.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first construction steps are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a side 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm (for the central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the inflection line of the collar, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left, set point b. We decide on the desired depth of the cutout and draw the line of the inflection of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the neck of the back - we put point c. Then, from point c, tangentially, we set aside the width of the back of the collar plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. We connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d, we restore the perpendicular to the line da and set aside on it, first the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the lines of the departure of the collar, ruffle and lapel. Refer to Figure 11 for an understanding of these concepts.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look like in the finished product, draw it on the right side on the details of the shelf (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this with the help of tracing paper.

Now it remains to draw a complete rack. The upper cut is drawn below the inflection line by 0.5 cm, the width is left 2-2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting details:

• Pickup. It is drawn similarly to the collar of a shawl. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
• Collar (lower and upper). Copies completely with the rack.
• Shelf. We translate everything, only without a collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, diverse and quite complex. So, if you have any questions - feel free to ask them in

Round collar shirts have entered our wardrobe reliably and for a long time. If you decide to sew blouses or dresses and are faced with a round collar, then it will be useful to know the rules for sewing it. So, how to sew a round collar with your own hands.

And for sewing lovers, lessons and master classes:

How to prepare the fabric

We will need tracing paper, scissors, cloth, pencil, chalk, pins and a sewing machine. It is advisable to pre-wash and dry the fabric so that later the collar does not lead.

The cut of the round collar must correspond to the shape of the neck of the product. Therefore, you need to attach a dress or blouse to the tracing paper and draw the neckline.

Based on this line, build a drawing of the collar. Its dimensions depend on the size of the shirt. So, for example, the width of a round collar for a size 42 blouse will be 5.5 cm. Do not forget that you need to leave a seam allowance of 0.5 cm.

Construction of a collar pattern

We make a pattern for the undercut detail. With its help, we will attach the collar to the product. Its base corresponds to the shape of the base of the collar, and its height is 1.5-2 cm.

Cut out the collar along the warp thread. We trim the collar if your model requires it (then the pattern of the collar and undercut should be made smaller than the armhole by the size of the assembly). We seal the collar with interlining. Sew on a decorative overlay as desired.

How to sew a collar to a shirt or dress

Lay the two pieces of the collar together right side up. Place a non-woven lining on top. Baste the collar with a needle-forward stitch, leaving a 1.5-2 cm hole in the center of the lower base of the collar so that the collar can then be turned inside out.

Sew the detail on sewing machine and turn right side out. Sew up the remaining hole with overlock stitch. Iron and steam the collar.

Turn and sew the bottom and sides (i.e. those that do not connect to the neck and collar) of the undercut.

Attach the collar to the blouse, on top of it, face down, lay the hem. Baste all the pieces and then stitch them.

Then lift the undercut piece and tuck it inward, into the neck. Sew it to the wrong side of the blouse.