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Pattern of a simple nightgown size 56. Cotton nightgown with lace

If you sew at least a little, then for sure, at least once, you thought about the question - how to sew a “nightie” (nightgown) with your own hands, and even, preferably, without a pattern). Well, not completely without a pattern, but so as not to look for the desired pattern and not “customize” it for yourself. At first glance, the task seems simple ... but we don’t need a shapeless “bag”, right? I would like to sew such a nightgown so that it perfectly “sits” on the figure. Let only one person see us in a nightgown, but what a person is one of the most important in our life! You have to be beautiful even in a "nightie"! But what if, instead of the usual nightgown, we undertake to sew a silk one with lace? How about making a few? Silk, cotton, lace, something else ... Moreover, if you have yours in dresses, this is enough to sew a nightgown into different options. Today we will model just such a wonderful nightgown, sewn from natural silk and decorated with lace. It is perfect for any woman, and most importantly - it will become your indispensable decoration in the dark!

The collections on the Mia-Mia website use only natural materials, but, as I wrote in the last article about robes, you can use any other fabric you like. After all natural silk not everyone can afford it, as it is very expensive, so when choosing a fabric, also pay attention to all types of rayon, chiffons, satin and crepe satin, as well as lace fabrics, because they are also perfect in our case. For finishing, you will need either elastic lace or lace ribbon - a length of about 0.8 meters.

To start modeling our shirt, we need a basic dress pattern. You can print basic patterns online on our website - they are inexpensive, and the products sewn from them will fit you just perfectly! Just enter the measurement values, and you can print the resulting pattern on a regular home printer.

Here are some more examples of nightgowns that you can sew for yourself or for your loved ones using a basic pattern:

First step. So, let's begin! Generate online on our service, take the front half. Let's look at the model features: detachable yoke, chest darts are moved down, there are no waist darts. Everything is very simple! First of all, we cut our pattern as shown in Figure 1 - stepping back 12-14 cm from the armhole down. And also we outline a new one - a shortened bottom line. You can choose the length yourself, depending on your desire. (The main thing is that the length of the shelf in the future coincides with the length of the back). The bottom line is shown in Figure 1 as a red line.

Second step. We close the chest tuck, as shown in Figure 2, and thus translate it down. In the next step, we will transfer the waist tuck into the side seam.

Third step. Let's finish our yoke by beautifully and smoothly shaping the top line of the product - in Figure 3 it is drawn in red. And also we put a notch for sewing on straps - at the highest point of the bend of the bodice. Plus, we measure the length of the straps in front, as shown in Figure 3 with a blue arrow. We write this value - it is equal to a. Now we translate the waist tuck into the side seam - it turns out to be strongly concave inward. And since the nightgown should be loose-fitting, we straighten the lower part of the shelf as shown in Figure 3 by the red line.

Fourth step. Now we take back half our pattern and outline the cut line, as shown in Figure 4 by the dotted line. But since according to the model our nightgown has a slightly different shape at the back, we slightly modify the cut line, as shown by the red line in Figure 4. We measure the length of the strap at the back (blue arrow), this value is equal to b (do not forget to write it down.) We are talking about the tuck forget, and also outline the bottom line of the product (the same as on the shelf) and straighten the side seam (red lines from the bottom and side of the back in Figure 4).

Fifth step. So, please see what details we ended up with: a back, a shelf and a shelf yoke. Now, if we process our products from above with a border, then we measure the following values: x, y, m, n. And we cut out 3 strips from the fabric, 4 cm wide. The length of the first two strips will be equal to (m + n + 2 cm), and the length of the third strip will be ((a + b + x + y) * 2 + 2 cm).

Sixth step. Now let's figure out how to sew a border. Figure 6 shows the fabric in blue and the edging in black. The dotted line is a machine line. Of course, it will be difficult for beginner seamstresses to sew the edging in one go, so you can sew in two steps: first, sew the edging on the wrong side, and then fasten it with a second line on the front side - it will be both more beautiful and neater! Just do not forget that first we process the armhole with two shorter strips, and then, with a longer strip, the neck of the shelf, straps and the neck of the back. On a longer strip, you must first make a markup so that the straps are the same!

Seventh step. If you do not want to suffer with piping, then you can buy regular detachable bra straps! In this version, we make a hem seam (1 cm) on top, and in the places where the straps are fastened, we sew small loops from a tape similar to bra straps (you can buy it at any sewing accessories store.) Below is a picture with several types of bra straps.

Final touches. Dear readers, it remains for us to cut the nightgown and sew it. The question arises - is this algorithm for constructing a nightgown pattern and our base pattern suitable for "uniform" ladies? Do not look at the fact that in our photos there are only “slender women”), in this way a nightgown pattern and size 56 can be obtained)) for both full and just for very large sizes) You can decorate it with lace, as shown in the technical drawing - on top of the yoke and under the yoke, or you can show your imagination and decorate it in a different way. Also do not forget to make allowances for the seams. On all details along the contour, seam allowances will be equal to 1 cm (if you sew a border, then we do not make allowances on top of the product), and 2.5 cm at the bottom of the product.

Tip: It is very difficult to cut silk because it is slippery and stretches a lot. Therefore, I advise you to cut it on an old flannelette blanket, or laying a duvet cover. And also do not forget to fix it with tailor's pins!

I wish you success in your creative endeavors! Use our service, build basic patterns online and be creative! Sew beautiful things for yourself and be beautiful!

#pattern for a shirt #pattern for a shirt #how to sew a nightgown #how to sew a shirt

Figure 44 shows how to work with drawing tools: how to correctly draw a circle or arc and curved lines. A circle or arc is drawn with a compass, turning it by the holder in the clockwise direction (Fig. 44, a).

Curved lines connecting the given points are drawn using patterns. The edge of the pattern is selected so that it connects as many points as possible (at least three), and a line is drawn along it (Fig. 44, b).

When making drawings and patterns, as well as when compiling instructional maps, you must use the correct methods of working with drawing tools and use the lines and signs shown in table 25.

The clothes that we wear can be divided into three types: outer, light and underwear (color table 4).

Underwear products include outerwear (pajamas, shirt-fronts, collars, cuffs) and underwear (shirts, combinations, underpants, pajamas for sleeping, etc., Fig. 45). Underwear is sewn from linen fabrics (see p. 62).

The following requirements are imposed on the finished linen:

1. Hygienic- underwear should be comfortable to wear, free, have a few finishing details.

2. Operational- underwear must have a certain wear period. It depends on the convenience of the design, the correctly chosen processing methods and the quality of the work performed.

3. aesthetic- linen should be beautiful in shape and finish.

Designing a nightgown

Nightgowns are very diverse in cut and finish. They can be with or without a collar, with a different shape of the collar, without sleeves or with sleeves of different lengths, long and short (Fig. 46).

Nightgowns should be loose fitting.

Taking measurements to build a drawing of a nightgown

To build a drawing of a nightgown, take the measurements given in table 26.

Details of the nightgown The nightgown consists of two parts - the back and the front. The shape and size of the parts are the same, they differ only in the shape of the goal line. At the front of the gate, it is cut deeper than at the back (Fig. 48).

This is explained by the structure of the human figure: most of the neck, at the base of which the gate is located, is located in front.

Remember the words: outerwear, light clothing, outerwear, underwear, cut, measurements: half neck, half bust, shoulder.

Questions and tasks

1. Why are measurements taken?

2. Which of the measurements are recorded in half size, and which in full, and why?

3. By what measure is the size of the product determined?

4. What parts does the shirt consist of and what is the difference between them?

5. Consider Figure 49 and remember the names of the lines of the shirt drawing.

6. Take measurements from each other.

7. Prepare an album sheet for building a drawing of a nightgown.

Practical work

instruction card. Construction of a drawing of a nightgown for the 38th size, II growth

Tools and accessories: scale ruler, square, compasses, pattern, TM and 2M pencils, eraser, album

Questions and task. 1. What measurements determine the width and length of the shirt? 2. Why is the increase to the measure of POG given? 3. What tools are used when drawing a shirt? 4. Make a calculation and build a nightgown pattern according to measured standards. SIMULATION OF A NIGHTSHOWN One and the same pattern can be used to sew products different styles. When modeling, the style lines are applied to the pattern of the base of the product. Figure 46 shows models of nightgowns. They differ from each other in length, the shape of the gate and the design (the use of finishes). Shirts 2, 3 and 5 are sewn according to one pattern, which has been amended and supplemented. These changes are applied to the pattern of the base of the shirt during its modeling. Figure 50 shows samples for finishing shirts with you-SHIYOKOY.

Questions and tasks

1. What is the modeling process?

2. What changes can be made to the shape of the shirt details?

3. How is a product sketch made?

4. Select the shape of the collar for the shirt you will be sewing and the finish in accordance with the selected fabric (fig. 51).

5. Do the design of the style of the nightgown. An example of the work is shown in Figure 52. Draw a sketch of a shirt in the album. Make a sample of the product from colored paper (in M 1: 4) in accordance with the sketch and glue it into the album.

6. Calculate the approximate amount of fabric that will be required to make a nightgown according to your measurements: 2Di + 40 (for processing the bottom of the shirt and for undercut facing).

Preparing a pattern for cutting

Tasks

1. Cut out the shirt pattern.

2. Make a pattern for the facing of the collar of the shirt: circle the pattern for the facing along the pattern (the pattern must be taken depending on your measurement POsh). The facing pattern can be drawn by yourself, as shown in Figure 53. Cut out the cut. 3. Put inscriptions on the pattern of the details of the shirt - the names of the details and the size of the allowances - and indicate the direction of the grain thread and the position of the shoulder line on the facing (Fig. 54).

Nightgown sewing

For the manufacture of nightgowns, mainly cotton and linen fabrics are used: madapolam, chintz, chiffon, fumes, flannel, linen. These should be fabrics of light colors, one-colored or with a small pattern (color table 5).

Practical work

When performing practical work on the manufacture garments it is necessary to remember about the economical use of fabric, to comply with sanitary and hygienic requirements (see Appendix 4) and safety regulations when working on sewing machine, with an electric iron, scissors, a needle and pins (see appendix 5) and technical conditions for performing manual and machine work (see appendices 11 and 12).

instruction card. Open nightgowns (see appendix 10)

Tools and accessories: work box, nightgown pattern, fabric.

Questions and task. 1. How to prepare fabric for cutting? 2. What should be considered when laying out the details of the pattern on the fabric? 3. What safety precautions should be observed when cutting? 4. Calculate how much fabric is required for a nightgown.

instruction card. Preparing cutting details for processing

Questions. 1. Why are control lines laid on the details of the cut? 2. Why, when making copy stitches, their loops must be at least 5 mm1 3. How to prevent a finger from being pricked by a needle when hand sewing?

Processing the gate with undercut piping

The color table 6 shows an instruction card for performing work on processing the gate with undercut facing.

self control. Check: 1) the accuracy of the execution and basting of the facing seam; 2) accuracy in the execution of the stitching seam; 3) the uniformity of the width of the facing along the entire length; 4) ironing quality.

Questions. 1. What machine and hand seams did you use when processing the collar? 2. Why is the inner edge of the facing sewn along the line of the facing seam? 3. What safety precautions should be followed when sewing on a sewing machine?

instruction card. Finishing the bottom of the sleeve with a seam in the hem

Tools and accessories: work box, cutting details.

Questions. 1. What is the sequence for sewing a hem seam with a closed cut? 2. What tool can be used when making a hem seam? 3. What hand tools did you use to finish the bottom of the sleeve?

instruction card. Joining shirt pieces with a double seam

Tools and accessories: work box, cutting details.

Questions. 1. What kind of seams are used for sewing underwear? 2. How is a double seam performed? 3. What safety precautions must be observed when working with an electric iron?

instruction card. Processing the bottom of the shirt with a hem seam

Tools and accessories: work box, semi-finished shirt.

Questions. 1. What handmade used when making a hem seam? 2. How to iron the finished bottom of the shirt? 3. What tool is used when removing running stitches?

instruction card. Finishing the shirt

Tools and accessories: work box, nightgown.

Questions and task. 1. What temporary stitches are removed when finishing a shirt? 2. Tell us about the sequence of ironing a shirt. 3. How to check the quality of the finished shirt?

Various types of processing of sections of a shirt (color, tables 7 and 8)

Processing the collar and cut sleeves

The collar of a nightgown is treated with an undercut piping from a finishing or main fabric. It can be trimmed with lace, ribbon, piping, webbing, frill from the main or finishing fabric, embroidery: The lower sections of the sleeves can be finished with a hem seam with a closed cut or undercut facing using the same trims as when processing the collar In shirts 1 and 4 lace is inserted between the facing and the main fabric. At the shirt, 2 gates are finished with undercut facing, and the bottom of the sleeve is finished with a hem seam with a closed cut. Lace is sewn from the wrong side on the processed collar and the bottom of the sleeve. In shirt 3, from under the facings with which the sections of the shirt are processed, an edging can be released from a strip of finishing fabric cut at an angle of 45 °. You can also stitch a bindweed on the facing or perform a finishing line on it.

Processing the bottom of the shirt

The lower section of the shirt is treated with a hem seam with a closed section and trimmed with lace, a frill from a ribbon or finishing fabric. They are adjusted from the front (shirt 5) or wrong side (shirt 6) side.

Questions and tasks for repeating the topic "Making a nightgown"

1. What kinds of underwear do you know?

2. What measurements should be taken to build a drawing of a nightgown and which of them determine the size of the collar and sleeve?

3. Name the lines of the shirt drawing.

4. What is the development of the shirt style?

5. How to prepare a pattern for cutting?

6. Tell us about the cutting sequence.

7. How to prepare the details of a shirt cut for processing?

8. How are the collars, the bottom of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt processed?

9. What is the final processing of the shirt?

10. Fill in the table. To do this, find the correct answers and enter their numbers.

Appointment of measurements (answers)

1) to determine the width of the sleeve;

2) to determine the length of the shirt;

3) to determine the size of the gate;

4) to determine the width of the shirt.

If you go shopping, you will find an endless variety of nightgowns for all ages and with different length. It is clear that it is much easier to buy such an accessory and you do not have to spend so much time, but you can choose the style you like and choose a beautiful color to your liking. Only now the question arises, how to sew a quickly and simply nightgown in step by step lesson with your own hands. In principle, now it is easy to do even for beginners.

Nightgowns are an accessory that should be completely comfortable so that nothing presses, does not pull and does not interfere at all, with the same turns at night on the barrel. We take as a basis the most simple shirt. If desired, it can be decorated with different details.

How to sew a nightgown with your own hands: a pattern for beginners

The first thing to do is to go to a specialized store and purchase the fabric that you think would suit you the most and be pleasant to the body. Now you need to decide how much fabric you may need. To do this, you need to measure the most voluminous place on your figure. For some, it is the hips, while others may have the chest or shoulders. If you did everything right, and for example, you got 90 cm, then you need to purchase at least three times more. When choosing a model, do not strain too much, let it be the simplest and most uncomplicated.

Now let's get down to the most decisive stage in this serious matter. If you are just starting to master this kind of skill, then try it first on some piece of paper or on old wallpaper. If you make a mistake, it will not be scary. We will cut this shirt.

Fold it in half carefully. It should be a rectangle. We fold this segment again, only now along. You should have a rectangular shape with one corner of all without an edge. This is where the neck will be. Next, we take chalk that matches the color of the fabric and a ruler. We measure 9 cm on the short side from this angle, and 2 cm on the long side. We take chalk and draw a smooth arc to connect all the points. In this place we will have a cutout from the back, as shown in the photo:

Now let's move on to the sleeves. From this short side, but from another angle, it is necessary to set aside 17 cm along the long side (this will be the width of the sleeve) and from this point along the edge we measure 8 cm more. We put at risk. Now from it inside the fabric we draw a line along the ruler. Then we draw the hem. Before us turned out the 4th part of our shirt. We should put a quarter of our volume in it, but in order not to be too crowded, it is better to add about 5 cm. As a result, we got 30 cm wide.

Next, you need to set aside it along the lower short side and draw a line up until it intersects with the line from the risks. At this point, the armhole will begin. With a smooth arc, we will connect it to the point of the sleeve (17cm). Slightly expand the hem at the bottom. Then you need to connect the points I and E with a straight line. That's it. Check again and you can safely cut, but we cut, retreating from them by 2 cm, except for the neck, everything is clearly along the line here. When everything is cut out, we expand absolutely to the full length and fold along, changing the scissors to a ruler and chalk. The neck on one side needs to be deepened by 7 cm. Now we draw a smooth arc with chalk, drawing half of the future neckline, and immediately repeat everything with the help of scissors. Then you need to sew the side seams, tuck the hem and sleeves. At the end of the work, sew a slanting trim to the neck. That's basically it!

When sewing a nightgown with straps, we need the following materials:

Textile;
Several types of satin ribbons;
Scissors;
Oblique inlay.

Nightgown with straps

For such a model, measurements are not required, but as a pattern, you can use summer sundress. The shirt will turn out on our shoulder straps.

In order for our product to turn out to be wavy, the fabric should be cut at an angle of 45% to the hem. We leave 0.5 to 1 cm allowances for seams.

After cutting the fabric, the parts must be folded with the right side inward, the sides should be swept and stitched. We iron the seams from the wrong side, we process the edges of the seams on an overlock.

Now we move on to the neckline, sewing an oblique inlay to it with a temporary thread. It is also necessary to mark the places where the straps will be in front and behind. We sew the inlay to the places where the marks are, insert the straps and sew the inlay at the same time.

Then we proceed to work with the bottom of the shirt: whoever wants the hem to be wavy, the oblique trim should be sewn with a zigzag seam. Also, our product can be decorated with something at the end, now this is not a problem. In stores you can choose a lot of all sorts of original parts. And our nightgown with straps is ready!

There are also other interesting styles of nightgowns, for example, from batiste with lace.

To sew such a shirt, you first need to purchase batiste fabric, lace with embroidery on the mesh, which is more practical when washing or wearing the product. Very often, mothers want to please their children and create some unusual things that are completely different from others. Below is a model of a nightgown for a girl. First of all, we need light material so that the child's body breathes during sleep and the child feels great. We also cannot do without threads and scissors in this matter. Everyone comes up with the length of the product himself from his preferences and the season. Here you can do without a pattern by attaching a T-shirt to the paper and circling it, cut it out. The main advantage of this tailoring is that the thing is obtained with a one-piece sleeve. Next, draw the lines of the coquette and cut it off. We adjust the armhole: cut off 2 cm from the top of the armhole along the oblique line. And here we have a pattern of a shirt with a yoke. Cut it out in 2 pieces. for every detail.

We perform some actions and that's it. The shirt is completely ready, at will we decorate it with various details.

Video selection on the topic

At the end of the master class, we want to invite you to watch our video master class on sewing nightgowns, which will be useful in learning and will be a good example for you. Happy learning!

A person spends most of his life in a dream, and therefore, during sleep, he should be comfortable, and for this, comfortable clothes made from natural fabrics are needed. Most women find it easier to buy a sleep accessory in a store, but there are those who would like to sew a nightgown themselves. You will ask a completely natural question, how to sew it yourself? There is nothing easier: first you need to choose a fabric. It all depends on which model you choose and for what season: chintz is a summer option, cotton or flannel is an autumn-winter one. We bring to your attention some easy-to-tailor models of nightgowns.

Below are master classes with photos.

with one-piece sleeve

Before you start sewing, you need to take measurements of the chest girth, the length of the product, and if the woman is full, you need to take one more measurement - the girth of the upper arm.

When drawing up patterns, skills are needed, but not everyone has these skills. Therefore, they will be simple.

When sewing we need:

Fabric - approximately 2 m long, 70 cm wide.
Lace ribbon.
Scissors.
Chalk.
Ruler.

Choose the material to your taste, but better for the body natural fabrics You feel comfortable in this product.

For a pattern, two measurements are needed: chest circumference and product length, you can play with sizes and shapes, as far as fantasy tells.

To cut the product, the pattern must be on thick paper.

Let's start designing the pattern:

We build a figure on the drawing paper with the designation ABVG (it is built according to the measurements taken of the chest and the length of the product).

First, draw the figure ABGW. The distance AG is the length of the product, AB is the chest girth + 2 cm.

Mark A: set aside 7 cm to the right and 2 cm down and put D and D1. Draw a line between them, mark the neckline from the back. Then set aside 8 cm down and put the mark D2. The AD2 line marks the front neckline.

We draw a sleeve on the pattern, set aside 10 cm from mark B, note how K. 16 cm is deposited from below, this mark will be K1. From K1 we draw a perpendicular line to the BV line. Let's designate the intersection point as Zh. Set aside 7 cm to the left and down, designate E and E1, connect the marks with a line. We draw the bottom of the product.

Point B: set aside 7 cm to the right B1. Labels B1 and E are connected. B1 set aside 2 cm from above point I. Marks I and B are combined. The pattern is ready, cut out. The fabric should be folded in half with the front side inward, put the pattern on the fabric, pin it with needles, and carefully begin to circle at a distance of 1.5 cm from the pattern, these are seam allowances.

Carefully cut out the details nightgown stacked facing each other. The lines of the shoulder and sides are sewn with a temporary thread, the bottom is folded over twice and also hemmed with a temporary cloak, after which we sew on sewing machine.

Now we are processing the neck, we also need to sew an oblique trim or a strip of fabric to it, we sew it on a typewriter. We turn it to the front side, iron it with an iron so that the fold line is as even as possible, fold the rest of the inlay or strip of fabric, stitch it with a makeshift, and then sew it on a typewriter, remove the temporary thread after stitching the part.

An openwork braid can be sewn along the neckline and along the edges of the sleeve, we decorate as fantasy tells. A nightgown with a one-piece sleeve is ready, it remains to be ironed.

How to sew a nightgown with your own hands on the straps

For this model, measurements are not needed; a summer sundress can be used as a pattern.

For work we need:

Fabric (choose your choice)
Oblique inlay.
Pieces of wide satin ribbons.
Scissors.

We will sew a shirt on the straps.

To make the product wavy when cutting, the fabric must be cut at an angle of 45% to the hem. We leave 0.5 to 1 cm allowances for seams.

After the fabric has been cut, the parts are folded face inward, the sides need to be swept and stitched. Then iron the seams from the wrong side with a path, process the edges of the seams on an overlock or a small zigzag seam.

Let's take care of the neck: we sew a slanting inlay to it with a temporary thread, at the same time we mark the places where the straps will be in front and on the back. We sew the inlay on the typewriter to the places of the marks, insert the straps and sew the inlay along with them.

Let's move on to the bottom of the shirt: whoever wants the hem to be wavy, the bias trim needs to be sewn with a zigzag seam.

The nightgown is ready, it remains only to decorate it, here your imagination will help you.

Model on a yoke

We chose a fabric, the footage needs two lengths of the product, for work we need: fabric, threads, scissors, a sewing machine.

Now you need to make a pattern for the selected model.

Pattern

As a basis, we take some T-shirt according to your size, thick paper, pin it to the paper and circle it along the contours. From the shoulder down, draw a line of the desired length of the product. From the bottom edge of the armhole we draw a trapezoid or a straight cut, everything according to your desire. We connect the lower points of the drawing with a line, this will be the bottom of the nightgown. We draw the lines of the coquette, then cut it off from the main pattern. We will slightly correct the armholes, you need to cut off two centimeters on the upper part of the armholes along an oblique line. Now the pattern is ready. We cut out the pattern of each part in 2 pieces.

Tip: do not forget to make seam allowances of 1.5–2 cm. The fabric was cut.

We take the yoke, tuck its upper edge and sew it on a typewriter, after which we sew the yoke to the top of the nightgown, we process the seam on it in the same way as the side ones. The hem of the shirt needs to be tucked up twice, stitched on a typewriter. Our nightgown with a yoke is almost ready, it remains to iron it and decorate it with decor, then your imagination will be free.

Batiste model with lace

We buy batiste fabric according to your size, lace with embroidery on the mesh, it will not crumble when worn and washed.

When cutting this model, a dress pattern was used, do not forget to leave seam allowances of about 1.5–2 cm.

Assembling the nightgown: first we assemble the parts of the front, then the back. We tuck the edges of the armhole, sew, From the strips of cambric left in advance, we sew and sew on the straps. Sew the front and back pieces together. Bend the bottom of the shirt and sew. Batiste nightgown with lace is ready

Shirt model for girls

You will need: light fabric, thread, scissors, sewing machine.

We will need a child's T-shirt, thick paper, pin the T-shirt to the paper and trace it along the contours. From the shoulder down, draw a line of the desired length of the product. From the bottom edge of the armhole we draw a trapezoid or a straight cut, everything according to your desire. We connect the lower points of the drawing with a line, this will be the bottom of the nightgown. We draw the lines of the coquette, then cut it off from the main pattern. We will slightly correct the armholes: you need to cut off two centimeters on the upper part of the armholes along an oblique line. Now the pattern is ready. We cut out the pattern of each part in 2 pieces.

Tip: do not forget to make seam allowances of 1.5–2 cm.

We fold the parts with the front side inward, sew with a temporary seam, sew the side seams on a sewing machine, process the seams on an overlock or a zigzag seam. We unfold the side seams and iron them with an iron, this is necessary so that the seam is even. We take the yoke, tuck its upper edge and sew it on a typewriter, after which we sew the yoke to the top of the nightgown, slightly gathering it, we also process the seam on it, as well as the side ones. The hem of the shirt needs to be tucked up twice, stitched on a typewriter.

Our nightgown for girls is ready, you can decorate it with flowers or butterflies, make a yoke edging under the bust.

Video on the topic of the article

NIGHTSHIRTS (pattern)

For the manufacture of lingerie, well-washable fabrics are recommended: cotton, staple and silk, in a variety of light colors, smooth or with a small pattern.
Lingerie can be trimmed with stitching, lace, embroidery, frills, inlays, etc.

NIGHTDRESS

The picture shows a nightgown with a yoke and a large neckline; gathers in front and behind under the coquette. The bottom of the shirt is trimmed with a frill. The sleeves are short, one-piece, gathered at the bottom and ending with cuffs. Fabric consumption for an average size of 3.5 m with a width of 80 cm.
To build a drawing of a nightgown pattern, the following measurements were taken (in cm):
Semicircumference of the neck .......................... 18
» chest. . . . . . . . . . . 48
Circumference of the arm above the elbow .............. 32
Shirt length with frill....... 120
» sleeves ...................... 13

Building a drawing of the back and front

The pattern drawing of the back and front of the nightgown can be done as follows.
On a sheet of paper, build a rectangle AA1NN, (Fig. 22, a).
The vertical sides of the rectangle are equal to the length of the shirt minus the width of the frill: AH \u003d A1H1 \u003d 120 - 20 \u003d 100 cm.
The horizontal sides of the rectangle are equal to half the circumference of the chest plus 3 cm (for a loose fit for all sizes) and plus 6 cm (increase for gathers): AA1 \u003d HH1 \u003d (48: 2) + 3 + 6 \u003d 33 cm.
Armhole depth line. From point A, lay down the depth of the armhole vertically, equal to half the semicircle of the chest, and put point G: AG \u003d 48: 2 \u003d 24 cm.
From point G, draw a horizontal line parallel to AA1 to the right, and place point G1 at the intersection with the vertical one. Straight GG1 will be the armhole depth line.
The length of the bottom seam of the sleeve. From the point G, set aside 4 cm vertically and from this point draw a horizontal line to the left equal to the length of the sleeve, or 5 cm. Connect points 5 and G with a smooth line, as shown in the drawing.
Sleeve bottom line. From point A, continue the horizontal line to the left by 6 cm. Connect points 6 and 5 with an auxiliary line, continue it up 3 cm. Divide this line in half and set aside 1 cm from the division point to the left. Connecting points 3, 1 and 5 with a smooth line, we sleeve bottom line.
The length of the top seam of the sleeve. From point b, lay the length of the sleeve 13 cm to the right along the horizontal line.
Connect points 12 and 13 with a straight line.
The line of sewing on the coquette on the back of the shirt. From point G1, set aside 12 cm vertically. Connect points 12 and 13 with an auxiliary line. This line is divided into three parts. From the left division point, lay down at a right angle 4 cm, and from the right - 3 cm. Connect points 13, 4, 3, 12 with a smooth line.
The line of sewing on the coquette on the front of the shirt. From point 12, lay down vertically 4.5 cm. From the left dividing point (on the auxiliary line), lay down perpendicularly 6 cm, and from the right - 7 cm. Connect points 13; 6; 7; 4.5 smooth line.
Side seam line. From point H, continue the horizontal line to the left by 6 cm; connect points b and d with a straight line.
Ruffle sewing line. Divide the side of rectangle HH1 in half. Set aside 1.5 cm from point b. Connect point 1.5 to the division point and continue the line to point H1. We get a line of sewing frills on the back of the shirt.
From point H1, continue the vertical line down 2 cm. From point 2, draw a straight line 15–20 cm long parallel to HH1 to the left, which is connected to point 1 5 with a smooth line. We get a line for sewing a frill on the front of the shirt.
Drawing a yoke for the back
Construct a right angle with an arbitrary length of sides; mark the top of the corner with point B (Fig. 22, b).
Neck line. From point B, set aside to the left horizontally a distance equal to a third of the measurement of the semicircle of the neck plus 7 cm, and put point B1: BB1 \u003d 18: 3 + 7 \u003d 13 cm.
From point B, lay down a vertical distance equal to the measure of the semicircle of the neck minus 1.5 cm, and put point B2: BB2 \u003d 18: 3 - 1.5 \u003d 4.5 cm.
Connect points B1 and B2 with an auxiliary line and divide it into three parts. From the right division point, lay down at a right angle 1.5 cm, and from the left division point - 2 cm. Connect points B1, 2; 1.5 and B2 with a smooth line - the neckline.
Coquette width. From point B2, lay down vertically the width of the coquette 6 cm, from point B1 to the left horizontally, also 6 cm. Connect both points b with a smooth line parallel to the neckline.
Shoulder line. From point b (on the horizontal), lay down 1.5 cm; points 1.5; Connect B1 with a straight line.
Building a drawing of a coquette for the front
Construct a right angle with an arbitrary length of sides; mark the top of the corner with point B (Fig. 22, c).
Neck line. From point B, set aside to the left horizontally a distance equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the semicircle of the neck plus 7 cm, and put point B1: BB1 \u003d 18: 3 + 7 \u003d 13 cm.
From point B, set aside vertically down a distance equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the semicircle of the neck plus 3 cm, and put point B2: BB2 \u003d 18: 3 + 3 \u003d 9 cm.
Connect points B1 and B2 with an auxiliary line and divide it in half. From the division point, lay down at a right angle 2.5 cm. Points B1, 2.5; Connect B2 with a smooth line - the neckline.
Coquette width. Set aside the width of the coquette 6 cm from point B2 down the vertical and from point B1 to the left horizontally. Connect both points b with a smooth line parallel to the neckline.
Shoulder line. From the point (b on the horizontal), lay down 1.5 cm; connect dots 1.5; B1 straight line.
Note. To determine the place where the assemblies begin, put control marks on the shirt; to do this, set aside 8 cm from point 13 along the line of sewing the yoke on the back, and 12 cm along the line of sewing the yoke on the front. and put control marks.

Construction of a cuff drawing

Construct a rectangle ABCD (Fig. 22, d). The vertical lines of the rectangle are 4 cm:
AB = BG = 4 cm.
horizontal lines equal to the measurement of the circumference of the hand plus 2 cm:
AB \u003d VG \u003d 32 + 2 \u003d 34 cm.

Layout and cutting

Prepare separately patterns for the front and back halves of the shirt, two pieces each for the pattern of the front and back halves of the yokes (lower and upper) and cuffs.
Calculate the amount of fabric per frill. To do this, measure the bottom line of the front and back halves of the shirt pattern and double the resulting length. For example, if the width of the bottom of the front and back of the shirt pattern is 79 cm, then the entire line of the bottom of the shirt will be 79 x 2 = 158 cm.
The frill should be one and a half to two times the bottom of the shirt. So the whole frill will be:
158x1.5 = 237 cm.
In practice, with a fabric width of 80 cm, it is necessary to cut three canvases 80x3 \u003d 240 cm, 22 cm long (20 cm frill width and 2 cm seam allowance). Then fold the fabric in half along the shared thread. Lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric with a 1 cm seam allowance, as shown in fig. 23, and cut out a narrow belt from the remnants of the fabric.

Sewing
Mark with a thread the control marks on the shirt and on the yoke, lay the threads in the middle of the front and in the middle of the back of the shirt and yoke.
Stitch the shoulder sections of the yoke. Lay the coquettes one on top of the other with the right sides inward so that
to match the shoulder seams. Sew along the neckline
1 cm from the edge. Turn the yoke right side out. Sweep along the edge of the neckline.
Stitch the top edge of the sleeve with a double seam.
Gather the sewing line of the coquette on a thread twice between the control marks, at a distance of 0.5 cm
from the edge and 0.5 cm from the laid thread.
Pin the lower yoke to the inside of the shirt with pins, aligning them along the shoulder seams, control marks, midline and evenly distributing the gathers. Baste and then stitch the yoke to the shirt at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. Bend the upper yoke inside out along the cut line, covering the line, bast and stitch along the edge.
Double stitch the sides of the shirt.
Gather the sleeves in the same way as the yoke sewing line. Sew the cuffs and bast them to the sleeves, putting the cuffs right side on the wrong side of the shirt. At the same time, combine the side seam of the shirt with the seam of the cuff and level the gathers. Sew cuffs at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. Bend the other edge of the cuff, bast, covering the line, and sew along the edge to the sleeve.
Sew all parts of the frill along the edges. Hem the lower edge of the frill with a narrow hem (see Fig. 19). Gather the upper cut of the frill in the same way as the sewing line of the coquette.

Bend the bottom of the shirt from the inside to the front side by 0.5 cm, bast the frill to the bottom of the shirt (Fig. 24, a). Unscrew the frill with the front side to the front side of the shirt, sweep and stitch along the edge of the shirt (Fig. 24, b).
Stitch the belt and turn it right side out.