How to tie simple. How to speed up hand knitting: a set of secrets

Sometimes, looking at beautiful knitted things, you begin to dream again about how to learn to knit clothes yourself. For beginners, this may seem like an impossible task, but if you master the basics of mastery and advance in it gradually, you can achieve tangible results in six months.

At the heart of skill are not so many whales. Your success at the start will depend on right choice tools, yarn, mastering the starting loops and mastering the two most common types of loops: purl and front, as well as the gradual complication of their combinations, plus the addition of new patterns.

Knitting needles

Important is the quality of the spokes, which should be light, smooth and made of durable material. The traditional materials for making knitting needles are wood, bone, plastic and metal. Consider the characteristics of each of them when choosing knitting needles for yarn. For example, plastic and wood often bend, although they are light and easy to knit. From fleecy fluffy yarn it is better not to knit with wood, because fluffy threads cling to their rough surface.

If you are knitting with light-colored yarn, then do not use aluminum, which can leave gray marks on the threads.

Steel knitting needles are comfortable, durable, do not bend, do not stain or cling to the pile of yarn, but their only drawback can be called weight, they are heavier than other knitting needles.

Choosing yarn

The most popular yarn materials among needlewomen are angora, mohair and acrylic. Woolen threads are convenient in knitting, and products from them acquire good shape, the loops are even. Products from melange threads are beautiful. When choosing yarn, be guided by the product selected in the magazine and the recommendations indicated for it.

It is advisable for beginner needlewomen to learn to understand the types of yarn, carefully study the label on the package and the composition of the yarn. On the labels of quality yarn, the manufacturer indicates the desired size of the knitting needles for the yarn, the thread consumption and the estimated knitting density. Please note that knitwear tend to stretch after washing and become larger. When choosing knitting needles and yarn, knit a 10x10 sample for the test to make sure the choice is correct. When the knitting tools are selected and purchased, you can proceed to the stage of learning the art of knitting. At the heart of any knitted fabric are loops, which form the entire product.

How to learn to make loops


Place two knitting needles together.

After separating a long thread from the skein, wrap it crosswise once around the thumb and the same thread also around the index finger. The end of the loop thread that is on thumb, while it should eventually lie in the palm of your hand, and the end of the thread of the loop from the index finger should go out, bending around the middle finger and ring finger and again go inside the palm, lying on the inner surface of the little finger. We have one loop on the thumb and a loop on the index finger.

Keeping the two needles pressed together, pick up the loop from the bottom of the thumb, without further removing this loop, grab the loop from the index finger and pull the loop from the index finger through the loop of the thumb.

Tighten the first loop that appears on the knitting needles with your thumb.

Then, in the same way, continue to create loops, one by one. Such loops are called air or starting. After forming a row of loops, carefully draw out one needle and get ready to knit with two needles. The basic loops in the construction of any pattern on the canvas are front and back loops. Having mastered the front surface and the wrong side, you will learn how to create a variety of models and any patterns, even the most complex at first glance.

How to knit in stockinette stitch


Working main thread, stretching from the skein, with knitting is always behind the canvas and is held with the left hand, by winding the thread around the left index finger in one turn. The knitting algorithm is as follows:

  • Insert the right knitting needle in front of the fabric into the loop that lies on the left knitting needle, hook the working main thread wound around the finger with the right knitting needle and pull it through the loop space;
  • Throw the formed new loop from the left knitting needle to the right, and lower the loop from the previous row from the left knitting needle;
  • You have knitted a front loop, which on the canvas looks like a “pigtail” of two threads.

The second type of loop is called purl and its implementation is not at all difficult.

Features of the wrong side


In this version, the working thread lies in front of the canvas. The knitting algorithm is as follows:

  • Place the warp thread on the left needle in front of the loop you are going to knit;
  • Move the right knitting needle behind the working thread through the loop on the left knitting needle;
  • working thread pull through the loop and move the new loop to right needle;
  • Lower the loop from the left knitting needle, which was in the previous row.

Once you have mastered these two types of stitches, try knitting a few times in stockinette stitch and then a few rows in purl stitch to hone your skill and achieve smoother stitches.

Then try to knit a few rows with a simple pearl pattern. To do this, alternate the front loop with the wrong one, and in each new row, the loops need to be shifted by one.

There are many ways to start knitting. The choice of this or that edge depends on the future product ... “You can master any knitting techniques, know how intarsia differs from arans and skillfully apply this knowledge. But if you do not pay due attention to the type-setting edge, there will be no sense in intarsia. ”

This truth was revealed to me when, conjuring over the next sweater, I could not bring the character of the main pattern and the inlaid edge into line: the second did not want to harmoniously complement the first, and the first was a logical consequence of the second.
Actually, this was the motivating reason for collecting a collection of "initiations", which I will gradually make public.

The usual way

Some sets are based on already cast on stitches cast on in the "usual way".
I will describe the "usual way" that I usually use.

We stretch the thread between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, leaving a tail that exceeds the future width of the canvas by about three times. The thread of the ball in this case goes through the index finger.
We bring a couple of knitting needles under the stretched thread, press the thread to the knitting needles with the index fingers of the right hand. We shift the thread with the knitting needles to ourselves ...

... move under the thread coming from the thumb, then under the thread coming from the index finger and back under the thread from the thumb.

As a result, we get two loops on the knitting needles.

Each successive repetition of the movements recorded in photos 1 and 2 will add one loop to the knitting needles.
Sufficiently elastic edge of delicate appearance, making it almost universal. However, as my readers rightly point out, in the running places quickly losing appearance due to abrasion:

BULGARIAN BEGINNING

We cast on loops in the usual way, leaving a tail with a length of about the number of loops * 4 cm:

We work with facial crossed loops, knitting each pair of loops of the left knitting needle as one. The working thread is a double thread, consisting of a thread from a ball and the remaining tail:

The first two loops are already knitted with one front crossed, but have not yet been removed from the left knitting needle.

At the end of the row, leave the thread of the tail - we will no longer need it.
We knit the next row with facial loops only with a thread from a ball.
The last row of the set: over the loops of the previous row we knit the wrong ones, from the broaches between them - the front ones.

The very broaches from which it is supposed to knit facial loops are marked.

Ready.

As a result, we get a decorative, embossed, not too elastic set.

ITALIAN SET

We take a thread of a contrasting color, a suitable hook and knit a rather loose chain of air loops. The number of loops in the chain is calculated as follows: if you need N loops for work, the length of the chain should be N: 2 + 1 loopz.

We put the hook aside, take the knitting needle and cast on loops on it using the following sequence of steps: one loop is knitted from the chain as a front one, yarn over from the ball, knit again from the chain, yarn over again, etc.

Having finished the row, we connect the second knitting needle to the work: we knit all the crochets of the previous row with knit ones, and we remove all the knit ones (now we see them as purl) as in purl knitting, leaving the working thread before work.

We will knit three more rows in this mode.
It is curious that a side effect of such knitting is a cavity that forms between the many knit and many slip stitches: if all the knit stitches of one row are slipped onto one knitting needle, and all the slip stitches of the same row are slipped onto the other, then we will get two parallel fabrics.
By-effect with great potential!

The contrasting thread is unraveling.

The typesetting edge - with neat teeth, absolutely elastic - is ready.

SET WITH OPEN HINGES

THE QUESTION IS FREQUENTLY ASKED: is there such a set that (both ours and yours) can then be knitted in both directions? For example, I knit a dress, pick up loops and knit from the waist level, for example, and then somehow contrive, and knit a skirt down from the initially typed ones. Actual when you need to shorten the skirt, for example, and the dress is knitted from below.

It turned out that there is, but not one.

First way

We stretch the thread between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand so that the thread from the ball goes through the index finger and place a pair of knitting needles relative to the thread in the indicated way.
We transfer the thread from the thumb by turning the wrist between the knitting needles and throw it on the far knitting needle.

We return the hand to its original position, and throw the thread from the index finger onto the nearest knitting needle and carry it between the knitting needles.

Winding up the above "eights" should lead to this result:

It is worth noting that the loops on the two needles will be oriented differently: on one needle there will be a continental orientation, on the other - English. When working, they will need to be aligned depending on your knitting style.

Second way

Another way to knit in both directions requires a hook and thread in a contrasting color.

We take a hook, take a contrasting thread and knit a chain from the required number of air loops.
We put off the hook, take the knitting needle, the main thread and begin to knit the front loops from the back walls of the loops of the chain.

Further, the desired pattern is performed on the dialed loops.

To start knitting in the opposite direction, the chain from the auxiliary thread is unraveled ...

... and the resulting loops are carefully, observing their orientation, typed onto the knitting needle.

Both methods give an identical result: in the canvas, the place where they started knitting with the second knitting needle is absolutely invisible:

CORD-SHAPED EDGE

A versatile set that gives a strong elastic edge - be sure to try it in your work!

Make a slip knot on the left needle.
We knit the resulting loop with the front one, which, without removing the knitted loop from the left knitting needle, is placed on the left knitting needle.

We place the right knitting needle in the gap in front of the last loop of the left knitting needle and knit the front knitting needle out of it, which, without removing anything from the left knitting needle, is again placed on the left knitting needle.

Continuing to knit the front loops from the gap between the loops, we find that a twisted cord begins to form along the bottom of the work and note with satisfaction that we are on the right track.

Having thus typed the required number of loops, you can start knitting the desired pattern.

This cast-on edge is interesting in that it can be used not only as the beginning of knitting, but also as a way to pick up additional loops on the side of the knitted fabric.

PATTERNED EDGE WITH SCALETS

To complete this unusual set, you need to stock up on a pair of knitting needles and a crochet hook.

We put together one knitting needle and a hook, and we collect the necessary number of loops on this pair in the usual way - depending on the desired width of the festoon - the number of loops (I decided to stop at ten).

We throw the next loop only on the hook ...

... and we stretch this loop through the previously dialed loops.

We transfer this loop to the knitting needle, we also hook the first loop of the festoon with it (pay attention to the color marking).

Put the needle and hook together again and pick up the next festoon.

We work in the described manner until the required number of scallops is on the spoke.

We turn the work and knit the next row with the necessary pattern, picking up the required number of loops in the first row inside each festoon (it seemed to me that three would be enough). You can dial with crochets or the same cord method.

Colored dots - nakida inside each scallop

We get a beautiful decorative edge, almost inelastic.

PATTERNED EDGE WITH FRINGING

A very interesting set: the fringe will turn out strong, in the form of eyelets or, if cut, a strand.

Starting position: the thread from the ball on the index finger, the tail lies in a loop on the thumb.
We put two knitting needles together, guide them under the thread on the thumb ...

then we grab both threads on the index finger and lead them into the loop on the thumb.

We drop the thread from the thumb and pull the knot with the thread coming from the ball.

We drop the thread from the index finger (this is the first loop of the fringe), send it to the right hand, at the same time placing the thread from the ball in front of it. We adjust, if necessary, the length of the loop by pulling the tail.

Again we direct the knitting needles under the thread on the thumb, grab the loop on the index finger, etc.

To adjust the length of the fringe loops, it is convenient to use a cardboard or plastic template. I was too lazy to make a template - the loops turned out to be not exactly the same.

The result of the set will be a series of double loops on the spoke. In the next row, you can start knitting the planned pattern, knitting each double loop as one.

TRIPLE PIECE

In fact, this is the same usual method, with the only difference that it involves a built-in thread.

So, take the thread from the ball and fold it in three.

We throw a triple thread on the thumb of the left hand so that the loop of the triple thread is between the thumb and forefinger, and the thread going from the triple thread to the ball would go through the index finger.

We introduce the knitting needle into the loop of the triple thread ...

... we pull it towards ourselves, then, according to the usual method, we go under the loop on the thumb, we catch the thread on the index finger from the bottom up and return back to the loop of the thumb.

The edge typed in this way has a noticeable edge, moderately elastic and quite decorative. Of course, it is far from the Bulgarian conception, but this set cannot be called universal either.


MACHINE EDGE

A tight, even edge is what the result is.

Starting position: the working thread is stretched between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. The thread from the ball passes through the index finger.

Moving from left to right, place the needle under the thread, slightly turning the needle. Edge loop received. In further work, we hold it with the thumb or forefinger of the right hand in order to avoid unnecessary displacement.

We dive with a knitting needle under the thread coming from the thumb, we catch the thread on the index finger and draw it back under the thread of the thumb. This is the rule for casting all facial loops.

We direct the knitting needle under the thread going to the index finger, we catch the thread of the thumb, which we bring back, under the thread of the index finger. This is the rule for casting all purl stitches.

Make sure that the loops do not twist, and the weaves of threads fixing them lie strictly under the knitting needle.

It should be noted that the use of the concepts of front and back loops in this case is very conditional.
Purl loops with a “cushion” at the bottom are called (in the photo they are marked in red), facial - all the rest:

Alternating knit and purl, we collect the required number of loops. The last loop cast on should be the front.

We turn the work around. We knit the first loop as an edge.
The next loop is knit, but incorrectly oriented relative to the continental knitting method. We knit it with the front crossed, and remove the next wrong side after it without knitting, leaving the thread before work.

We work like this until the end of the row.

We turn the work around.
The orientation of the facial loops has been corrected, therefore we knit the next two rows in next rule: facial over facial, purl remove without knitting, thread before work.

After trying this set, you will definitely notice that the first four rows give a rather voluminous edge. To avoid contrast, cast-on rows are knitted with smaller diameter needles.

TWO-COLOR SET

At the ends of the yarn of both colors we make a slip knot.

We send the knitting needle with knots to the left hand, with the right knitting needle we knit the first loop of the left knitting needle with the front loop with a thread of a contrasting color.

We continue to work with the same color. We make a cape…

... with the same color we knit the front remaining loop of the left knitting needle.

We return the last knitted loop to the left knitting needle.

The thread of the color we have worked with so far is behind the work. We transfer it between the knitting needles forward.

The still unclaimed thread - on the contrary, we transfer between the knitting needles back and make a yarn over with it.

We knit with it the loop of the left knitting needle.

We return the last knitted loop back to the left knitting needle, etc.

To with "etc." there were no difficulties, let's run through the pictures in the sequence "returned the loop - transferred one thread - transferred the other thread - knitted the front one" using the following loops as an example:

Ready set.

In the next row, you can start knitting the selected pattern. I, succumbing to the rhythm of the type-setting edge, performed a two-color smooth surface.

Today, thanks to the Internet, everyone can learn to knit for free. To do this, you need to arm yourself with patience, since you will not immediately succeed perfectly. beautiful product. But we will start with the simplest things, which will help you master more complex and original models in the future.

The most important advice for beginners: do not be afraid to experiment, as needlework is creativity.

Knitting lessons for beginners with knitting needles

If you know how to knit front and back loops, calmly start creating products, so you will quickly master the basics at home. Choose simple hats, scarves, socks and sweaters, thereby delighting yourself and your family with new clothes.

Masters advise trying clothes for babies and big dolls. You will be able to understand the principle, after which you can easily move on to knitting for adults.

How to knit a scarf (step by step photos)

The simplest is knitting scarves. We will start with him.

Size: 15*160 cm.

Materials: 1 skein of Bunny Scarf (92% polyester, 8% acrylic, 150g/89.5m) on knitting needles 10.0mm.

Knitting density: 8.5 p. * 14 p. \u003d 10 * 10 cm. shawl pattern.

Description: Cast on 13 stitches. 1st row: slip the first loop, thread at work, knit each loop knit behind the back wall. Repeat the 1st row to a height of 160 cm. Cast off the loops.

To get a snood, you just need to sew the two ends. It is also acceptable to use such a pipe as a hat on the head in a very cold season.

Snood collar for women

The fashionable novelties of 2018 are a stylish snood collar. It suits everyone, so a beginner must learn how to knit it (besides, the entire creation process will take no more than 2-3 hours). For girls, you can choose openwork models, for men - with a simple knit.

And now we will consider the simplest and fastest universal option.

Snood circumference: 66 cm

Snood height: 38 cm

Materials: 2 skeins of Bernat Mega Bulky Sparkle (99% acrylic, 1% metallic, 250g/48m), needle size 19

Knitting density: 4 loops * 9 rows = 10 * 10 cm.

Knit a loop twice: knit a knit loop behind the front wall, do not remove the loop from the left knitting needle, knit it again with the front behind the back wall (+ 1 loop).

Description:

Cast on 26 stitches. Row 41 (purl side): Knit first st twice, knit to last 2 sts in row, k2tog. 2nd row (persons side): persons. loops. Repeat 1-2 rows until the length of the snood is 66 cm. Finish the front row of work. Bind off on purl row as knit. Sew the cast and closed edges together.

If you want to complicate the work a little, try to tie everything with an English rubber band. So the scarf will turn out to be more voluminous and warmer, and most importantly, suitable even for men. But it will be necessary to increase the number of loops, since due to the elastic band, the width will decrease significantly.

Men's thick yarn socks

Step-by-step training of male-type cool socks in the simplest way.

Knitted with thick DROPS ESKIMO yarn. The work is done in front stitch, in circular rows.

Size: 32/34 — 35/37 — 38/40 — 41/43 — 44/46

Foot length: 20 - 22 - 24 - 27-30 cm.

Toe Height: 10 - 12 - 14 - 16 - 18 cm.

Materials: 100-150-150-150-200g. yarn DROPS ESKIMO (100% wool, 50 g/50 m), knitted socks for stocking knitting 8.0 mm.

Knitting density: 11 p. * 15 p. = 10*10 cm.

Description: Cast on 22-24-26-28-28 sts on double needle, place marker at beg of round. Knit with an elastic band 1 persons., 1 out. – 4 cm. Knit a row, at the same time decrease 2 loops along the row = 20-22-24-26-26 loops. Continue knitting in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 10-12-14-16-18 cm, leave 10-12-12-14-14 sts on needle (heel), place last 10-10-12-12-12 sts on additional needles (top of foot) . Work back and forth in stockinette stitch over heel sts - 5-5-6-7-7 cm.

Then knit decrease for the heel:

1st row (person. side): knit with facial stitch to the last. 4-4-4-5-5 sts, k2tog. behind the back wall, turn.

2nd row (wrong side): knit with stockinette stitch until the last. 4-4-4-5-5 sts, k2tog, turn.

3rd row: knit with front stitch to the last. 3-3-3-4-4 sts, k2tog. behind the back wall, turn.

4th row: knit with front stitch to the last. 3-3-3-4-4 sts, k2tog, turn. Continue dec in this way (each time 1 st less before previous dec) until 4-6-6-6-6 sts remain.

Cast on 6-6-7-8-8 sts on each side of the heel, return slipped top sts = 26-28-32-34-34 sts, mark top sts on both sides.

Continue in stockinette stitch in the round, while dec 1 st on each side of the marker. in length 17-19-20-23-26 cm. -14-14 loops of the top of the foot and sole. Next, we decrease for the toes as follows: * knit up to 3 loops in front of the first mark, knit 2 together, knit 1, mark, knit 1, knit 2 together. behind the back wall, repeat from * for the second mark, knit with front stitch to the end.

Repeat such decreases in every second row 3 times, then in each row - 0 (0, 1, 2, 2) = 8 loops. Cut the thread, pull it through 8 loops, tighten and fasten off.

Mitts made of warm yarn in the style of "Boho"

Mitts look good with ponchos, coats with short sleeve, jacket, and for winter they are simply irreplaceable.

Materials: yarn DROPS ALPACA (100% alpaca, 50 g/167 m), needles 3.0 mm.

Knitting density: 24 stitches * 32 rows = 10*10 cm.

Pattern 1: work *3 rows in purl stitch, 4 rows in stockinette stitch, repeat from *

Pattern 2:*3 rows in purl stitch, 8 rows in stockinette stitch, repeat from *

Description: Cast on 48 sts on 3.0mm needles. Join in a circle. Knit pattern 1 - 7 times vertically. Knit 4 rows in stockinette stitch. Knit pattern 2 - 6 times vertically. Knit 3 rows in purl stitch, then 1 row in stockinette stitch. Close the loops as front.

Hat for newborns

Cap for children with a pattern "pearl". For a newborn, it is very important to choose a very soft hypoallergenic thread (cotton, viscose, linen).

So, complete guide where to start creating a headdress for the little ones.

Size: 3 (6, 12) months

Head circumference: 40 (45, 49) cm.

Materials: 1 skein of PatonsDreamtime Merino (100% Merino, 50g/169m), stocking needles 3.0 and 3.25mm.

Knitting density: 31 sts * 40 rows in double pearl pattern on 3.25 mm needles. = 10*10 cm.

Description

Spokes 3.0 mm. Cast on 104 (112, 120) sts. Divide stitches over three needles. Join in a circle. 1st row: * Knit 1, purl 1, repeat from *. Repeat the 1st row - 3 times. Switch to 3.25 mm needles.

Start knitting a double pearl pattern:

1st row: * 1 out., 1 person., Repeat from *.

2nd row: * 1 out., 1 person., Repeat from *.

3rd row: * Knit 1, purl 1, repeat from *.

4th row: *1 persons., 1 out., repeat from *.

Repeat rows 1-4 for a double pearl pattern. At a height of 8 (9, 10) cm from the typesetting edge, start decreasing:

Row 1: *Knit 2 sts together in patt, work 22 (24, 26) sts in st, work 2 sts together in st, repeat from * = 96 (104, 112) sts.

2nd and all even rows: knit double pearl pattern.

3rd row: *k 2 sts together in st, work 20 (22, 24) sts in st, work 2 sts together in st, repeat from * = 88 (96, 104) sts.

Row 5: *Knit 2 sts together in st, work 18 (20, 22) sts in st, work 2 sts together in st, repeat from * = 80 (88, 96) sts.

7th row: *Knit 2 sts together in patt, work 60 (18, 20) sts in st, work 2 sts together in st, repeat from * = 72 (80, 88) sts. Continue dec sts in this way (work 2 less sts each time between decs) until 16 sts remain on needle. Track. row: (2 persons together.) - 8 times = 8 loops.

Cut the yarn, thread the tail of the yarn through the last loops, pull tight and fasten off. Hide the ends.

Knitted sweater for a girl with an openwork placket

Sweatshirts and cardigans are things that you should start only if you are confident in your abilities.

Children's knitted cardigan for girls from 3 months. up to 5 years. Knit in stockinette stitch with an openwork pattern along the slats.

Size: 3-6 months (6-12 months, 1-2 years, 2-3 years, 4-5 years)

Bust: 41 (46, 51, 56, 61) cm.

Length: 22 (26, 28, 32, 35) cm.

Sleeve: 15 (17, 20, 24, 29) cm.

You will need: 2, 2, 3, 3, 4 skeins of Euro Baby BABE SOLIDS (55% nylon, 45% acrylic, 50g/165m), 3.75 and 4mm needles, 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) buttons.

Knitting density: 22 p. * 30 p. \u003d 10 * 10 cm. Front surface, knitting needles 4.0 mm.

Double pull: remove the front loop, 2 faces together., throw the removed loop over the knitted one.

Facial surface: Knit loops on the front side and purl loops on the wrong side.

Openwork pattern:

1st row (face): 1 out., 1 person., yarn over, 2 people., double broach, 2 people., yarn over, 1 person., 1 out.

2nd row: 1 person., 9 out., 1 person.

3rd row: 1 out., 2 persons., yarn over, 1 person., double broach, 1 person., yarn over, 2 persons., 1 out.

4th row: knit as 2nd row.

5th row: 1 out., 3 persons., yarn over, double broach, yarn over, 3 persons., 1 out.

6th row: knit as 2nd row.

Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern.

Description

Back: knitting needles 3.75 mm. dial 50 (54,58,62,66) p., knit

Elastic band 2*2

Knit in rib until 3 cm, finish purl row, inc 2 (2, 2, 4, 6) sts on last row = 52 (56, 60, 66, 72) sts.

Change needles to 4.0 mm. Knit in stocking stitch to a height of 10 (13, 14, 17, 19) cm, finish the purl row.

Armholes: cast off 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) sts at beg of next 2 rows = 48 (52, 54, 60, 64) sts. Knit exactly to 20 (24, 26, 30, 33) cm, finish purl row.

Shoulders and neck (face): close 4 (4, 4, 5, 6) p., 17 (18, 18, 19, 19) persons., turn, put the rest of the loops on additional knitting needles.

Track. row (wrong side): cast off 4 sts, purl. to end

Track. row: close 4 (4, 4, 5, 6) p., persons. to end.

Track. Row: Cast off 4 sts, purl. to end

Second shoulder: return to delayed loops

Track. row (face): cast off 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts of the neckline, knit to the end

Track. Row: Bind off 4 sts, k. to end

Track. row: close 4 (4, 4, 5, 6) p., out. to end.

Track. Row: Bind off 4 sts, k. to end.

Track. Row: Bind off 5 (6:6:6:5) sts.

Left shelf:

1st row (face): 2 persons., * 2 out., 2 persons. *, repeat between *-*

To knit:

1st row (face): 16 (20, 24, 26, 30) persons., knit the first row of an openwork pattern, 2 persons.

2nd (wrong side): purl 2, knit the second row of an openwork pattern, finish with purl.

Armholes: at a height of 10 (13, 14, 17, 19) cm. (face) close 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) p. from the side of the armhole, finish in the pattern = 26 (30, 33, 35, 38) p.

Neck: at a height of 18 (21, 23, 27, 30) cm (wrong side): close 5 (6, 7, 7, 9) sts from the side of the neck, finish in the pattern.

Knit a row in a pattern. Close from the side of the neck in every second row - 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) p. - 2 times, then 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) p. = 1 time = 13 (14, 14, 16, 17) p. Knit to the height of the back.

Shoulders (face): close from the side of the armhole for the bevel of the shoulder 4 (4, 4, 5, 6) p. In knit a row in a pattern. Close 5 (6, 6, 6, 5) p.

Right shelf: With needles 3.75, dial 26 (30, 34, 38, 42) p.

1st row (face): 2 persons., * 2 out., 2 persons. *, repeat between *-*

2nd row (wrong side): 2 out., * 2 persons., 2 out. *, repeat between * - * - elastic band 2 * 2

Knit in rib until 3 cm high, finish purl row, inc 3 (3, 3, 1, 1) sts on last row = 29 (33, 37, 39, 43) sts. Change needles to 4.0 mm.

1st row (face): 2 persons., knit the first row of an openwork pattern, 16 (20, 24, 26, 30) persons.

2nd (wrong side): 16 (20, 24, 26, 30) out., Knit the second row of an openwork pattern, 2 out.

Continue knitting in lace pattern and stockinette stitch.

Armholes: at a height of 10 (13, 14, 17, 19) cm (wrong side) bind off 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) sts from the side of the armhole, finish in the pattern = 26 (30, 33, 35, 38) sts.

Neck: at a height of 18 (21, 23, 27, 30) cm (face): close 5 (6, 7, 7, 9) sts from the side of the neck, finish in the pattern.

Knit a row in a pattern.
Close from the side of the neck in every second row - 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) p. - 2 times, then 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) p. = 1 time = 13 (14, 14, 16, 17) p.

Knit to back height.

Shoulders (wrong side): close from the side of the armhole for the bevel of the shoulder 4 (4, 4, 5, 6) p. Knit a row in a pattern. Close 5 (6, 6, 6, 5) p.

Sleeves: with knitting needles 3.75, dial 36 (36, 40, 40, 44) p. Knit with an elastic band 2 * 2 - 3 cm, finish the purl row. , 40, 42, 44) p. Change to 4.0 mm needles. Knit with front stitch, add 1 p on each side. Repeat additions every 10 (8, 8, 10, 10) p. - 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) times = 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) p. At a height of 15 (17, 20, 24, 29) cm, close the loops.

Assembly: sew the shoulders, sew in the sleeves, sew the sides and seams of the sleeves.

Neck: from faces. sides, with knitting needles 3.75, cast on 19 (21, 24, 25, 27) sts along the neck of the right shelf, 28 (32, 34, 36, 38) along the neck of the back, and 19 (21, 24, 25, 27) sts along the neck of the left shelf = 66 (74, 82, 86, 92) p.

1st row (face): 2 persons., * 2 out., 2 persons. *, repeat between *-*

2nd row (wrong side): 2 out., * 2 persons., 2 out. *, repeat between *-*

Repeat rows 1-2 again. Close the loops with an elastic band.

Left shelf:

1st row (face): 2 persons., * 2 out., 2 persons. *, repeat between *-*

2nd row (wrong side): 2 out., * 2 persons., 2 out. *, repeat between *-*

Repeat rows 1-2 again. Close the loops with an elastic band. Distribute 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) buttons along the left front as follows: the first button is 1 cm below the neckline, the last button is 1 cm above the bottom of the shelf, the remaining buttons are evenly distributed between them.

Right shelf (with buttonholes): With knitting needles 3.75, cast on 70 (74, 78, 80, 82) sts along the left shelf.

1st row (face): 2 persons., * 2 out., 2 persons. *, repeat between *-*

2nd row (wrong side): 2 out., * 2 persons., 2 out. *, repeat between *-*

Track. row: knit with an elastic band, at the same time, on the buttons of the right shelf, make a crochet, knit 2 faces together. (or 2 purl together, depending on which loop the hole will fall on). Knit 2 rows in rib. Close the loops with an elastic band.

Lessons "knitting for beginners" - video lessons

YouTube is a tutorial for everyone. Video tutorials from detailed description and clear instructions make it easy to understand even the most complex thing.

Knitting socks for beginners on 5 knitting needles video

Master class from Nina Spica - socks of 4 colors.

Many people have hobbies that they love to do. Knitting is just such a pastime. Through this type of activity, various crafts, toys or beautiful clothes. If you have never done it, but really want to, then you most likely have a question in your head about how to learn to knit from scratch. If you really like this leisure option, and you strive to master this business, purchase the necessary knitting attributes and use the step-by-step instructions below.

Necessary materials and tools used in knitting

To start knitting, prepare everything you need in advance. Without basic tools, you won’t be able to do anything, so go to a special store that sells everything for needlework to buy:

  • Yarn of the desired color (of your choice).
  • Ordinary needles.
  • Knitting needles for knitting braids or plaits. They look like normal ones, only they are curved in the middle.
  • Circular. Ordinary knitting needles, interconnected by a special fishing line. Needed for knitting products in a circle or fabrics of large sizes.
  • Hosiery. They come in a set of five. Used to knit in a circle socks, necks, hats, mittens. Four knitting needles are located on the canvas in a circle, and with the help of the fifth, loops are knitted. In this way, you will get a one-piece product that has no seams.
  • Large needle with a large eye. It will help to sew the details of the product together.
  • Clip for marking.
  • Rollover pin to leave them untied.

Step-by-step instructions and knitting patterns from scratch

Once the tools and materials are prepared, it's time to learn the basics of knitting. Start with the very first steps: casting on stitches, doing front and back stitches, knitting small napkins or fragments of any product. Don't get discouraged if something doesn't work out. In the process of learning, you will have to redo everything in a new way more than once. Below you will see step-by-step instructions describing how to learn to knit from scratch with regular knitting needles.

Set of loops

The very first step in the process of knitting any product is a set of loops. To do this, use one of two main methods. From the first time, the patterns described below may seem difficult to perform, but it's all easy to remember in the process of regular knitting. Practice several times using both options to find the one that works best for you. After the description, you will find a video that clearly shows how the loops are cast.

The basic method of casting the first row using two knitting needles:

  1. Put the thread in the middle of the palm (the end should be down, and the side that leads to the ball is opposite). Circle the upper part around the thumb from right to left and lead to the index finger, clasping it from behind. Thread the thread between the second and third fingers, put in the palm of your hand so that both ends are captured by the middle, ring and little fingers.
  2. Take both knitting needles in your right hand and pry them from top to bottom with the loop that is on the thumb (on the back side).
  3. Continue moving towards the thread on the index finger, prying it from top to bottom, and again thread the tips into the first loop.
  4. Remove your thumb while tightening the knot on the right needle. In this case, both working fingers should fix the ends of the thread.
  5. Holding the resulting loop on the knitting needles with the index finger of the right hand, lower them down towards you. It turns out that the thread is again around two fingers.
  6. This time, knit the thread on the thumb from the bottom up from the side of the palm and drag it through the loop on the index finger again.
  7. Next, repeat the steps from step 4.
  8. Repeat what is indicated in paragraph 6 to dial a whole row.

With one spoke:

  1. Put the thread in your palm so that its end goes down.
  2. The second side, which goes through the hand from above, bending around the index finger, and originates in a ball, then hold it between the ring finger and the little finger.
  3. With a knitting needle, pull the thread towards you in the place where it touches the index finger. Immediately turn the tool away from you so that the yarn twists around it.
  4. Circle the needle around your index finger and insert it under the thread with a movement towards you (it will turn out that you will remove the yarn from your finger).
  5. For each new loop, follow the movements indicated in paragraph 4.

How to learn to knit front and back loops

The knitting process of any product is always based on a certain technique, which consists of two types of loops: knit and purl. Only their number changes in accordance with the instructions of the selected drawing. Carefully study the diagram before starting work, so as not to get confused. Having studied step by step description, you can pin the instructions by watching the video.

Front loop in the first way:

  1. Hold the thread at the back of the product.
  2. Pass the free knitting needle into the middle of the loop.
  3. Pull the thread leading to the ball from the side of the back wall, grabbing it with a knitting needle from top to bottom. Slip off the stitch that was on the left needle.

Front loop in the second way:

  1. The scheme remains the same as in the first method, only this time grab the working thread from the front wall of the loop.

Wrong side, the first way:

  1. Always keep the working thread in front of the product.
  2. Insert the free needle behind the front wall of the loop.
  3. Pass the working thread under the tool to right hand.
  4. Pull the caught thread into the loop.

Purl type of knitting, the second way:

  1. Insert the free knitting needle behind the front wall of the loop, move the tool to the right so that the surface is under it.
  2. Throw the working thread on the knitting needle to pull through the loop.

Ribbon Lesson 22

The technique of knitting gum 22 is the alternation of two types of knitting: front and back, two loops of each option. This is how the bottom of sweaters, vests, sleeves, necks, cardigans are knitted. How to perform this technique, see the step-by-step instructions below. After studying it, consolidate your skills in the video below. The sequence of execution of gum 22 is as follows:

  1. Slip the first stitch onto a free needle. This is necessary for the edge to be beautiful.
  2. From the second loop, knit two facial, then two purl.
  3. Continue like this until the end of the row.
  4. Always knit the very last loop as a purl, regardless of the pattern.

Knitting harness

Knitting any pattern always involves counting loops and rows. You will perform them both on the wrong side and on the front. A harness is a pigtail, its creation requires alternating knitting options through a certain number of loops. Check out the step-by-step instructions below on how to knit this pattern correctly. Here is an example of knitting a fabric with a width of 12 loops. If the description is not clear to you, fix the technique by checking the steps on the video.

  1. In this case, the pigtail is made in the center and consists of six loops. Start row with 3 purl rows.
  2. After - knit 6 loops with front stitch.
  3. The last three are purl.
  4. Repeat the next row, only this time first knit three loops of the front surface, and then - according to the pattern.
  5. When the pigtail columns need to be turned on the canvas, knit at least four rows in the manner described above.
  6. Having reached the next front row, where the pattern changes, knit three purl loops.
  7. Next, a pigtail begins, which is knitted with the front stitch. Skip the first three loops of the tourniquet, and continue knitting with the fourth.
  8. Carefully remove all 4 loops. You can put them on a pin.
  9. Slip the knitted stitch over to the right needle. And three untied - return to the left.
  10. Next, knit according to the pattern.
  11. Be sure to remember how many rows there are before each twisting of the tourniquet so that the pattern turns out beautiful and neat.

How to tie an English gum

This knitting method provides for a technique that is also based on a combination of the wrong side and front surface. English rib is used to create the bottom of sweaters, sleeves, the edge of socks, cuffs on slippers or mittens. For an exhaustive assimilation of the lesson, study the step-by-step instructions and the video below, in which the master shows the sequence of performing the English gum.

  1. Dial loops on two knitting needles, knit one row 11: alternating front - wrong side.
  2. From the next line, the drawing of the English gum begins: throw the first loop on the tool in your right hand, and knit the next one as if it were a front one.
  3. After - yarn over on the right needle. Knit a purl stitch. Continue in this style, alternating both knitting options.
  4. Knit the next row like this: remove the first loop, and knit the second front loop through two with a crochet at the end.

Knitting the "Bumps" pattern

After looking at the following diagram, you will get acquainted with an interesting pattern in the form openwork patterns under the name "Bumps". To do it, you will need a special technique that you can learn. This pattern is used for knitting various sweaters, hats, scarves, mittens. Follow the step by step instructions below to find out how. The video below will help you consolidate the lesson.

  1. In the new row, throw the first loop on the right knitting needle, and knit the second loop on the wrong side. The next five will be knit with a crochet (as described in the knitting of an English elastic band), but knit them from one loop of the current row.
  2. Next are three purl loops.
  3. Continue alternating to the end of the row. Stretch it out and move on to the next one.
  4. Here the knitting sequence changes: first comes the front loop.
  5. Each "Bump" is located on five rows, and the sixth - closes the pattern.
  6. Throw the first loop on another knitting needle, knit the next one as a facial one.
  7. Next come 5 loops - thread the knitting needle through them and knit another front one.
  8. Knit the next three stitches in stockinette stitch.
  9. Repeat the above steps until the end of the row.
  10. Knit the next row completely with purl stitches.

How to close loops

When the product is ready, it is necessary to finish knitting correctly. To do this, the loops are closed so that the canvas does not bloom. You can learn this technique by familiarizing yourself with step by step instructions Further. If at some point it is not clear or you need to fix the knitting method, watch the video tutorial attached below.

  1. Knit the first two loops. From them you will get a new one - throw it on the left knitting needle.
  2. Repeat the movement, only using the resulting loop. Pull the product a little and continue knitting.
  3. Pull the thread through two loops: you again have a new one - throw it on the left knitting needle.
  4. Continue like this until the end of the row, until all loops are finished.
  5. At the very end, you will have one loop left. Knit it, pull out the needle and tighten the thread.

How to learn to read knitting patterns

To facilitate the process of creating a conceived product with any pattern, there are detailed diagrams with a description of knitting techniques. However, sometimes these instructions are difficult to read, especially if you are an inexperienced knitter, because certain abbreviations are used there. Be sure to pay attention to the decoding that is given at the end, or remember the main abbreviation. Additionally, there are some rules for reading schemas. You can check them out below.

  • If you are using a pattern that describes knitting in the round, then read it from right to left.
  • Always understand the instructions before you start knitting, so as not to waste time reading while you work.
  • The edge loop is indicated by a plus sign, and its abbreviation looks like this: “chrome. P.".
  • The purl is abbreviated as “out. P.". You can find it in the diagram using the white square that is crossed out inside.
  • The front loop in the schemes is abbreviated as “l. P." and are marked with a black square.
  • Nakid is abbreviated as "n." and has a sign in the form of a triangle without a base.

Knitting video tutorials for beginners

If you are full of enthusiasm and seriously decide to learn how to knit some models of things beautifully, first try to create a simple product - footprints. In the future, use different lessons for beginners to get knitting skills. For example, watch four videos below that show in detail how to knit an original scarf; independently create two options for warm socks for the winter; make cute baby booties for the youngest member of the family.

Detailed tutorial on knitting a scarf

Video course on knitting socks

An easy way to knit booties for beginners

If you have never held knitting needles or a hook in your hands, then you should start by buying these tools.

Spokes are:

  • Straight (A). At one end, as a rule, there is a plug so that the loops do not fall off.
  • Circular (B). They are interconnected with a string.
  • Stockings (B). Double-edged, usually sold in sets of five.
  • For knitting harnesses and braids (D). They are distinguished by a bend in the middle.

They can be made of metal, plastic, wood or bone. To learn the basics, you need ordinary knitting needles. Best of all, steel ones, since aluminum ones can stain light-colored yarn, wooden ones cling to fluffy threads, and plastic ones often break.

Hooks are made from the same materials. There are models with handles and cheeks for holding.

Knitting needles and hooks differ in numbers. The number is the diameter in millimeters. It is usually indicated on the instruments themselves. The larger it is, the thicker the yarn should be. An important role is played by the material of the knitting needles or hook. For example, steel hook No. 1 will be slightly different from the same plastic one.

The metric systems of knitting needles and hooks differ by country. Keep this in mind if in the future you will knit according to English or Chinese patterns, of which there are so many on the Internet.

Yarn is natural (wool, angora, cashmere, mohair, cotton, linen), synthetic (acrylic, viscose, polyester and others) and mixed (for example, 25% mohair and 75% acrylic). For your first stitches, it is best to use synthetic or mixed yarn. She is smoother and more obedient.

The label will help you choose knitting needles or a hook for yarn.

Manufacturers usually indicate the footage and weight of the skein, the composition of the threads and the recommended number of knitting needles or hooks. Yarn labels are best kept.

In addition to yarn, knitting needles or a hook, colored paper clips, pins, scissors, a tailor's centimeter will also come in handy.

How to read knitting patterns

Many girls first learn to knit from their grandmothers and mothers, and only then they get acquainted with the patterns and instructions. If you didn’t have such a school, it’s better to figure out how diagrams are read right away.

When knitting, the pattern is indicated by cells. The number of cells horizontally corresponds to the number of loops in a row, and the number of cells vertically corresponds to the number of rows. In every cell symbol one loop or another.

Here are the typical designations for loops. But in specific schemes there may be other signs. Always study them carefully.



When knitting, the rows in the diagram are read from bottom to top and alternately: first from right to left, then from left to right. Circular rows are always read from right to left.

When crocheting, the rules are the same. IN circular knitting crochet pattern is read from the center to the edges.

The rows in the diagrams are usually numbered: the odd ones are facial, and the even ones are purl. Also on the diagrams you can find round or square brackets. They highlight the repeating part of the pattern - rapport.

Any item can be knitted or crocheted. , as a rule, know how to do both, but prefer one thing. We invite you to try both knitting techniques to find out which one is closer to you.

Knitted stitches set

There are various ways to cast on knitting needles. The following is considered traditional:

Front surface

Knit and purl loops are the basis of knitting. Having mastered them, you can knit your first simplest pattern- gum. But first, an important point.

Any loop has a front and back wall.


knitplanet.ru

You can knit for one or the other, but the result will be slightly different. Therefore, the front loops are divided into classic (those that fit in the front wall) and grandmother's (knit in the back wall). Clinging and pulling the thread behind the back wall is easier, especially for beginners.

This is how grandmother's facial loops fit.

And here is the classic method of performing facial loops.

Pick up the loops and try to knit several rows of facial loops: grandmother's or facial loops - your choice. This facial surface or garter stitch.

Wrong side

Purl loops are divided into grandmother's and classic according to the same principle. Watch the following video tutorial and you will understand how grandmother's purl loops are knitted.

Classic purl loops.

Knit several rows in one way or another. You will get the wrong side.

Elastic band 1×1

Having practiced knitting and purl stitches, you will be able to complete your first knitting pattern - 1 × 1 elastic. You have probably seen it on sweaters and scarves.

By the same principle, you can knit an elastic band 2 × 2 or 3 × 3.

Closing loops

To complete knitting, the loops must be closed. This is also done in different ways.

The Russian method is used most often.

The elastic method is usually used for rubber bands.

To close the loops in the Italian way, you will need a needle with a large eye.

The crochet hook can be held like a pencil (left) or like a knife (right).

Try it both ways and decide which is more convenient for you. After that, you can begin to master the basic loops. In crochet, these are air loops and double crochets and without.

Chain of air loops

In crocheting, any fabric begins with the first loop and a chain of air loops coming from it. You can make the first loop in various ways. Their variety is presented in this video.

Single crochet

Another base element in crochet - single crochet. Here's how it knits.

But at the loops crocheted, also has an anterior and a posterior wall. Depending on which of them you will start the hook and pull the thread, the pattern of the canvas will change.

Double crochet

Knitting is all about practice. The more you knit, the better it will turn out. Having perfected single crochets, you can move on to a more complex element - single crochet or multiple crochets.

Knitting resources and YouTube channels

During the Soviet shortage, many women were fond of knitting. But there were very few sources for learning and inspiration. Pattern patterns and various techniques were copied from each other by hand, and also carefully cut out from home economics magazines.

In the age of the Internet, there are many more sources. Online great amount sites and YouTube channels with educational articles and videos on knitting.

If, after knitting your first loops, you feel excited and want to learn more, bookmark the following resources.



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