Base oils for soap making: types and features. Soap base oils Soap making oils

Oils can be used in a variety of ways. In fact, any fats are a great field for experimentation. Vegetable sunflower oil, flaxseed, olive oil (soft foam and soaps), sesame, pumpkin, almond, burdock, cedar, safflower, castor (increases foam formation), walnut oil ... And also butter - gives the soap a special creamy smell and pleasant texture.

In specialized stores for soap makers, they usually sell refined (and therefore chemically processed) oils, because unrefined oils are stored for only 1-3 months. If you want a truly natural natural soap - look for unrefined oils.

Coconut toilet soap can be perfectly perfumed with numerous natural and artificial fragrances. You can also significantly improve the quality of this soap by adding lanolin or paraffin to it. Even Japanese waxed toilet soaps are a hit because they look exactly like cut toilet soap. Coconut toilet soap should not only be left in the mold for a long time, otherwise it becomes too hard and very difficult to extrude.

Soap with castor oil and sunflower oil maturing for a very long time. Better start from the simplest soap - olive 95% + 5% castor oil or coconut.

Olive oil

Olive oil-only soaps are known for taking longer to thicken. But this process is well facilitated by a blender or mixer.

Olive soap- the most tender of all, therefore, soap for children is made from olive oil without additional additives (if only a little chamomile or lavender essential oil). The foam of such soap is finely porous and stable.

To speed up the saponification process, you can add some beeswax or coconut oil. Always take a little less water for olive soap.

Properties of some oils

1. Grape seed, camelina, corn oil - these oils soften the soap, if you overdo it with them - there will be plasticine in your hands.

2. Coconut, palm oil - the more you put them in, the harder the soap will be. The foam will also be coarse-meshed, not creamy.

3. Olive oil - it turns out solid. The longer the soap sits, the harder it becomes. It lathers with fine-meshed foam, a lot of glycerin is obtained in the soap. Do not leave on a wet soap dish - the soap will be sticky slurry.

4. Castor oil - even if you add a little - it will foam well.

5. Foaming fats: coconut oil and palm kernel oil. Their optimal amount in soap: 10% - 25%. In addition to them, foaming, though in a slightly weakened form, palm and olive oil act. The latter creates an extremely fine foam that gets better the longer the soap ages.

Especially well moisturize the skin and take care of it - rapeseed and sunflower oil.

Glycerol is a natural alcohol. It has been used in the cosmetic industry for several centuries. Unlike its counterparts, glycerin does not dry out, but rather moisturizes the skin. In addition, glycerin perfectly protects the skin from adverse environmental influences. It is a thick colorless liquid. Despite the fact that it is a liquid, glycerin is sold by weight. Boiling point + 290C.

Coconut oil- a substance of plant origin, obtained by pressing coconut flakes. Coconut oil is used for the soap and confectionery industry. It has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, nourishing and protective properties. Coconut oil is suitable for making massage tiles, soaps, lip glosses and hair masks. The melting point of coconut oil is 22-27 degrees. Appears like white soft margarine at room temperature. Coconut oil melts instantly upon contact with the skin.

Castor oil - a substance of plant origin. It is obtained from the fruits of the castor bean, which is native to East Africa. Castor oil for medical and cosmetic use is obtained by cold pressing. Castor oil perfectly softens and whitens the skin, eliminates age spots. Ideal for aging and sensitive skin. Castor oil perfectly fights mimic wrinkles and restores skin elasticity. It is a yellow viscous oily liquid.

Cocoa butter - golden color and pleasant taste and smell (if not deodorized). It is obtained at the stage of technological processing of cocoa beans. It is the taste and texture of cocoa butter that you feel when chocolate melts in your mouth.

cocoa powder

Used to make chocolate. Also used for soap self made, cosmetic masks and anti-cellulite wraps.

Cosmetic cocoa powder does not contain additional impurities. Consists of grated cocoa beans.

It is also used as a natural flavoring and coloring agent.

safflower oil oil obtained from peeled seeds, according to the most important indicators, is not inferior to sunflower and is used for food. Oil from unrefined seeds has a bitter taste. Such oil is used for the preparation of light, non-yellowing drying oils, in soap making and in the production of linoleum. Since safflower oil is odorless and has the ability to be easily absorbed into the skin, it is included in various creams and ointments. An excellent source of magnesium, vitamins B2, PP. The composition of fatty acids is similar to sunflower: it contains carotenoids, vitamin E (mainly β-tocopherol) and polyunsaturated linoleic acid, which belongs to the Omega-6 class, predominates. Currently, safflower varieties have been bred that contain a lot of monounsaturated oleic acid (class Omega-9), but there is a possibility that this is a GM product. In ancient times, safflower was grown not for the extraction of oil, but because of the bright flowers, which served as raw materials for the production of red and yellow fabric dye. Today it is also used for food.

Palm oil

It is made from the fruits of palm trees of the species Aviora elais or Elais guienensis. These plant species are found in western Africa and the Americas. Among other vegetable oils, palm oil ranks first in terms of sales. So let's look at it in detail after all, in soap making it is one of the very first oils.

Palm oil has traditionally been used in the food industry and in the manufacture of numerous cosmetic products. However, palm oil itself can also be used as a cosmetic product. Palm oil great for hair condition. Hair becomes stronger, livelier, silky and pleasant. Treatment of hair with palm oil protects hair from the effects of adverse environmental factors. So when cooking soap in palm oil, it is then good to use it for washing your hair.

Palm oil is very rich in vitamin E, which is a natural antioxidant. It has unique oxidizing properties, thanks to which food prepared with its use does not deteriorate longer (apparently, this also applies to soap!).

Written sources mentioning palm oil date back to the 15th century. Palm oil was brought to Europe by Portuguese sailors. In some African countries, local people still make palm oil in the same way that they did it many centuries ago and use it for food.

It has a chemical composition well verified by nature: 50% saturated fatty acids, with 40% monounsaturated and 10% polyunsaturated fatty acids. In addition to all other useful properties, it is very resistant to oxidation. Minimum moisture level not made from GMOs, no cholesterol!

Japanese scientists have found that if a person prefers palm oil to any other type of fat, then his risk of developing vascular diseases is reduced.

At room temperature, it becomes hard like margarine. WITH sweet in taste. By chemical composition it is similar to butter. The main constituent of palm oil is palmitic acid.

Produce different fractions of palm oil, which differ in melting point.

To distinguish between different palm oil species use numeric codes.

Codes 48-52 are palm stearin. This type of palm oil is widely used in factory cooking. Palm stearin is one of the ingredients in margarine, and is also used to heat instant vermicelli.

Codes 36-39 are standard palm oil. This is exactly the fraction of palm oil that becomes solid at room temperature. This palm oil is great for making various pastries, if you add it to the shortcrust pastry, then the pastry turns out to be especially crumbly and tasty. It is also convenient to fry vegetables, chicken, beef on this palm oil. When fried, palm oil does not smoke and does not burn. However, food made with palm oil should be consumed immediately after cooking, because as soon as the dish cools, it will immediately be covered with a layer of congealed palm oil.

Palm olein is hidden under the coding 16-24. Such palm oil at a temperature of about twenty degrees has the consistency of a cream. And in the refrigerator it becomes solid. It is used for frying various products, ranging from dough products to meat.

In the production of oil, the fruits from the trees are collected, piled in heaps, and for thirty days the fruits roam. Ready fermented fruits are subjected to heat treatment. Most often this is boiling in large vats. Boiled fruits are crushed in large containers in order to obtain kernels that are exported to produce palm oil kernels. The boiled pulp of the fruit is again boiled in vats, pouring water. As a result, the oil rises to the top, where it is collected.

In addition to the soap base, fragrances, essential and base oils are also used in soap making. These are different things.

Base oils in soap making are shea butter, almond oil, coconut oil, apricot oil, butter grape seed, peach and palm oil.

You can buy here. On sale - all types of base oils for soap making, listed below.

Shea base oil

Shea butter (Shea Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii) has long been known on the African continent (where it comes from) and has been used in local medicine for many centuries. It is extracted from the pulp of the seeds of the fruits of the Shea tree (Butyrospermum Parkii), which grows in Sudan and West Africa (Ghana, Nigeria, Mali).

Shea butter has been used in cosmetics for about 20 years. Like lipids, it is considered a good foundation cosmetic product. Shea butter has wonderful softening and regenerating properties, influencing the synthesis of collagen. If we add UV filters to this, then this makes the oil an ingredient in regenerating and anti-aging compositions with great promise in the future. Shea butter also has a plasticizing effect and affects the protective properties of the skin.

Shelf life 1.5 years.

Sweet almond base oil

Can be used for all skin types.

Useful for skin irritations, peeling, dry, inflamed skin. Ideal for masks with essential oils, massage, care for problem areas of the skin (stomach, bust). Softens, brightens, makes the skin of the face and body more elastic and supple.

Eliminates burning, itching, redness of sensitive dry skin. Warm oily almond hand masks provide a regenerating, wound-healing effect. It is used for abrasions, rashes. Used for mild ear pain.

Sweet almond oil contains many vitamins that regenerate cells and normalize the acid-base balance of the skin.

The oil has a beneficial effect on dry, aging skin, restoring its freshness and beauty. Especially effective and beneficial for coarsened, with abrasions, inflamed skin. Application: in pure form, in the form of a base, as an additive 10-50%.

Shelf life 1.5 years.

Coconut base oil

Coconut oil has good cleansing and foaming properties. Therefore, it is widely used in soap making and in the manufacture of cosmetics.

Coconut oil perfectly protects, softens and smoothes the skin, due to its ability to create a protective film on the surface of the skin. Another advantage of coconut oil is its complete absorption by the skin. The oil moisturizes, nourishes and protects the skin. Suitable for all skin types.

Coconut oil is a great massage oil. It instantly makes the skin soft. With regular use, it prevents the formation of cracks on the hands and heels. You can also remove make-up with oil, including around the eyes. Coconut oil in liquid form mixes well with other base oils, as well as cosmetic products.

Store base oils in a cool, dark place. It is advisable not to leave it open for a long time, because under the influence of air the oils oxidize and become unusable.

Storage temperature is not higher than 30 degrees.

Shelf life 1.5 years.

Grape seed base oil

Grape seed oil has a composition rich in vitamins, this oil contains saturated fatty acids that are easily absorbed by the skin, retain moisture in its cells, thereby maintaining its fresh and elastic appearance. An excellent remedy for dry, sensitive skin, moisturizes and nourishes it, eliminates irritation and flaking. This oil is applied to the face after washing before going to bed. Effective as a hand mask after manicure. Massage with grape seed oil will bring a lot of pleasant sensations. It is used externally both in pure form and in combination with essential oils.

Grape seed oil is often used as a base oil in aromatherapy with the addition of 2-5 drops of essential oil per 15 sq. m.

Store base oils in a cool, dark place. It is advisable not to leave it open for a long time, because under the influence of air the oils oxidize and become unusable.

Shelf life 1.5 years.

Apricot base oil

Apricot oil has a composition rich in vitamins and minerals, perfectly nourishes and makes the skin supple and elastic. Promotes the regeneration of sensitive and damaged skin, normalizes the sebaceous glands. Massage with apricot oil will bring a lot of pleasant sensations, rejuvenate your skin, give it a healthy color. It is used externally both in pure form and in combination with essential oils. Apricot oil is often used as a base oil in aromatherapy with the addition of 2-5 drops of essential oil per 15 sq. m.

Store base oils in a cool, dark place. It is advisable not to leave it open for a long time, because under the influence of air the oils oxidize and become unusable.

Shelf life 1.5 years.

Peach base oil

It is used as an ingredient in ointments, cosmetic creams and masks, baby oils, oil balms, for cleansing sensitive, dry, fading facial skin in the form of masks, for nourishing dry and brittle hair, for eyebrows and eyelashes, for removing makeup (including waterproof).

Store base oils in a cool, dark place. It is advisable not to leave it open for a long time, because under the influence of air the oils oxidize and become unusable.

Shelf life 1.5 years.

Palm base oil

Palm oil and its products are a natural source of vitamin E and its components, the main function of which is to act as antioxidants - substances that prevent oxidation. The use of palm oil significantly extends the shelf life of the product.

Storage temperature is not higher than 30 degrees.

Shelf life 1.5 years.

IN Lately a hobby such as soap making has become very popular.

As practice shows, this is a very useful exercise. Having mastered its technology, you can create skin care products suitable for you, as well as make unique gifts for loved ones, endowing them with unique aromas. Washing with this soap is a pleasure.

Essential oils are volatile, oily, water-insoluble, colorless or slightly colored liquids with characteristic odors and tastes. They are produced only from plants by steam distillation or extraction (pomace) in the area of ​​​​growth, since the highest quality product is obtained from fresh raw materials. Esters are distinguished and named according to the plants that served as raw materials for them.

Each essential oil has beneficial properties inherent in the plant from which it is derived. When inhaling the smell of ether or applying it to the skin, a small part of the substance enters the bloodstream and spreads throughout the body. Even this small part is enough to show his beneficial features. It is for this reason that esters have become a favorite natural fragrance in soap making.

How to find a quality essential oil?

They are usually sold in pharmacies. Alternatively, they can be bought at craft stores or specialized soap shops, as well as online stores. It is there, as a rule, that essential oils are sold that are suitable for aromatizing soap.

You can check the quality of the product yourself:

1. To do this, you need to drip oil on a clean sheet of paper and wait until it dries. If, after drying, it did not leave marks on the paper, then the product is natural and of high quality, does not contain impurities and artificial inclusions.
2. Pay attention to the evaporation time of the oil. If the weathering period is short, then you are dealing with a synthetic product obtained by artificial means.
3. When buying, look at the price. If the entire assortment presented in the store is in the same price corridor, then most likely these are synthetic aroma oils. Natural esters have different prices, depending on the amount of raw materials spent on their production. As you know, with the same amount, different plants give different amounts of the final product. Some of the most expensive oils are rose, jasmine, sandalwood.
4. Essential oil should be packed in dark glass bottles equipped with droppers, with a volume of 2 to 15 ml. The package must contain the name of the plant in the languages ​​of the manufacturer and in Latin, as well as the name of the manufacturer, his address, contact details.
5. Not all plants can produce ether. For example, if you see kiwi, strawberry, banana oils for sale, this is definitely a synthetic product. By adding it to soap, you will get only the smell, but the soap will not acquire useful properties.

How to use essential oils in soap making

• Before using any essential oil, carefully read its properties and the effect it has.
• Strictly follow the dosage: no more than 7 drops per 100 g of soap base; the exception is citrus oils (up to 10 drops).
• When mixing oils, their total amount should also not exceed 7 drops per 100 g of soap base.
• Avoid getting esters on exposed skin and mucous membranes.
• Do not use oils from those plants to which you have an individual intolerance.
• Use oils that increase skin sensitivity to ultraviolet rays with caution.
• When combining, select the esters in such a way that their aroma does not interrupt each other.
• When creating fragrances, you can rely on the table of compatibility of essential oils.

Description of some essential oils

• Orange oil has a sweet, almost floral scent. It has a tonic effect, improves mood, causes a feeling of cheerfulness, cleanses the skin and helps to get rid of age spots. Perfect for oily and normal skin types. Works well with oils

1. citrus;
2. sage;
3. lavender;
4. ginger.

• Bergamot oil has a delicate fruity aroma with spicy notes. Increases mood and stress resistance. It has a tonic and brightening effect on the skin, regulates the activity of the sebaceous glands. Suitable for oily and combination skin types. It is combined with citrus oils, as well as oils from herbs (cloves, cinnamon, mint).
• Ylang Ylang oil has a sweet floral scent. Relieves stress, suppresses depression and insomnia. It is a well-known aphrodisiac. It has a relaxing effect. Gives skin elasticity and tenderness. Works well with esters

1. rosewood;
2. cedar;
3. patchouli;
4. all citrus fruits.

• Cedar oil has a woody-coniferous aroma. It is famous for its analgesic effect, has antiviral and bactericidal action. Compatible with oils:

1. pines;
2. neroli;
3. bergamot.

• Cinnamon oil has a spicy aroma. Helps relieve inflammation, produces a deodorizing effect. May cause skin irritation, therefore it is not recommended to use it in large quantities. Combined with:

1. citrus;
2. cumin;
3. cloves.

• Lavender oil has a bright floral scent. Helps to relax, calm down, relieves insomnia well. Recommended for oily and mixed types skin. Removes inflammatory process helps in the fight against acne. Nourishes the skin with useful substances and accelerates its regeneration. Saves from hair loss. Not picky in combination with other esters.

• Clove oil has a pungent, spicy aroma that mobilizes internal forces. Helps maintain good health, mood and positive attitude. Compatible with oils:

1. ylang-ylang;
2. lavender;
3. bergamot.

• Ginger oil has a sharp, warm, spicy aroma accompanied by herbaceous notes. Increases skin tone, has a cleansing and anti-inflammatory effect, tightens pores. Compatible with oils:

1. cedar;
2. citrus;
3. juniper.

• Oil peppermint has a strong characteristic aroma. Helps to restore strength, relieve nervousness, has a refreshing effect. Removes signs of fatigue from the skin. Compatible with oils:

1. lavender;
2. basilica;
3. rosemary.

• Tea tree oil has both a warm and tart aroma. It is considered a universal antibacterial and anti-inflammatory agent. Compatible with oils:

1. pines;
2. neroli;
3. bergamot.

A hobby can help not only to realize your creative potential and spend time with benefit, but also to get a good additional income. This can be the manufacture of hand-made postcards, dolls, decoupage, candle making, etc. Due to the high popularity of such hobbies, even a person who does not have special talents can do wonderful things by watching video tutorials and purchasing materials in special stores.

Homemade soap making is a very interesting and useful direction. The basis of any soap is alkali and fat. Plus dyes, fragrances, additional oils and ingredients when they want to make, for example, scrub soap or cream soap.

More experienced and striving for maximum naturalness of soap, craftsmen prepare it from scratch, dissolving alkali in water, adding oils and. But working with alkali requires certain skills and conditions, since when alkali is dissolved in water, caustic gas is released, the temperature of the solution rises greatly, and if it comes into contact with the skin, a chemical burn occurs. In addition, soap prepared in this way cannot be used immediately, it must stand for at least a month, then the alkali will fully react and will not harm the skin.

For home soap making, it is easier to use ready-made soap base sold in specialized stores. It comes in clear and opaque and often already contains base oils. The base must be melted and added, according to the recipe, additional ingredients. Soap made with the base can be used immediately after it has cooled.

Each oil has its own healing qualities, by adding one or another oil to soap, you can make it nourishing or drying, tonic or soothing. Essential oils also add fragrance by replacing perfume.

Oils and the qualities they give to soap

1. Apricot kernel oil

It is a light oil containing many fatty acids that are beneficial for the skin. It softens and moisturizes, prevents peeling. It has anti-inflammatory, regenerating properties and is great for sensitive skin. Well nourishes aging skin. It can be added to soap in a proportion of 5-10% of the total mass of soap.

2. Almond oil

The oil belongs to universal oils, as it is well suited for any skin. It is well absorbed and gently cares for the skin, moisturizing it. When added to soap, it promotes the formation of a stable foam. Add no more than 5-10%.

3. Avocado oil

Oily, dense, well nourishes and softens. Often recommended for people with sensitive skin. Contains vitamins A, D, E, important for the skin, contributing to the preservation of youth. Soap recipes can use 5-30%.

4. Castor oil

Thick, transparent oil, the addition of which contributes to abundant foaming. Contains a lot of saturated fatty acids. Perfectly moisturizes and retains moisture inside the skin. It is enough to add it in an amount of 5-8%.

5. Coconut oil

It is one of the main base oils used in soap making. Perfectly cleanses the skin. It should not be used more than 30%, because if it is present in large quantities, soap with it can dry the skin. Thanks to this quality, it is ideal for oily and combination skin.

6. Corn oil

It moisturizes well and gives a stable foam. It can be used 10-15%. It is not often used commercially, as it can cause a reaction in people who are allergic to corn. If there is no allergy, it is definitely worth adding.

7. Grape seed oil

A light, moisturizing oil containing important fatty acids. Good antioxidant. Suitable for oily skin, as it participates in the process of regulating the secretion of fat. It has a short shelf life, so you should not add more than 5%.

8. Hemp oil

Oil Green colour with a nutty scent. Gives a wonderful light, creamy, delicate foam. Moisturizes very well. Using it, you can create a luxurious healing soap. Due to the composition, it has a short shelf life, so it is not added more than 10%.

9. Jojoba oil

In fact, it is a liquid wax, chemically similar to sebum. Suitable for normal skin, including children's. The oil soothes and makes the skin supple. It is well absorbed, creating a protective barrier. Is hypoallergenic. In soap gives a good stable foam. It has excellent moisturizing and adsorption properties. Use 5-10%.

10. Olive oil

This oil is very often used in industrial production due to the fact that, by applying it, it is easy to obtain solid white pieces of a well-moisturizing gentle soap. It restores the skin well and makes it elastic. To improve foaming, it is desirable to use in combination with other oils. It can be added to soap in large quantities, but if it is more than 70%, then the soap will be very slippery, slightly unpleasant to the touch and with little foam.

11. Shea butter (shea butter)

Oil with a pleasant nutty smell. Gently cleanses the skin while moisturizing it well. Softens hardened areas and protects the skin from environmental influences, including from the sun's rays. Suitable for normal and dry skin. Add 5-8%.

12. Sunflower oil

This oil is good to combine with palm and olive oils. This combination produces a rich, creamy lather that gently cleanses and hydrates all skin types. You can add up to 25%.

Homemade soap differs from the one sold in the store in that it is much more useful and does not contain harmful ingredients. In addition, the process of its manufacture is very interesting, everyone can create their own unique recipe.

When you start making soap and handmade cosmetics, you face many questions about base oil: what types are there? what is the difference between refined and unrefined and which is better? what is cold pressed oil? What is special about solid oils? Which oils are suitable for which skin type? How much oil can be added to soap? and other questions. I will do my best to answer them in this article.

What is base oil

Base oils (base oils, carrier oils) are fatty nutritious oils of vegetable origin. This is a completely independent product with its own characteristics, properties and purpose. They can be used as a base for essential compositions, as a "cream" for the face and body, as medicines, as additives to soap and natural cosmetics(creams, shampoos, shower gels and scrubs, bath foam, etc.), as a make-up remover, for massage, to strengthen nails, and of course, as an indispensable thing in cooking.

Base oils have the most valuable composition: very important polyunsaturated fatty acids, triglycerides, waxes, phosphatides, lipochromes, tocopherols and the whole spectrum of vitamins. In everyday life, they are simply irreplaceable, thanks to their composition, what can we say about the benefits for beauty and health.

BM stimulate cellular metabolism, tissue regeneration, due to which they have a strong antioxidant effect, promote the synthesis of fibrogen and collagen, improve and strengthen skin cell membranes, improve skin nutrition, increase the ability of skin cells to retain moisture, improve lymph and blood circulation, increase skin tone, normalize the secretion of sebaceous glands, remove dust, dirt and cosmetics from the skin surface, and can also dissolve deposited sweat gland secretions.

Composition of base oils

The composition of the base oil is a rather complex mixture of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. The predominance of saturated fatty acids makes the oil hard, the more unsaturated fatty acids, the more liquid it is in consistency.

For those who actively use oils, it is important to know that the more oleic acid (refers to monounsaturated fatty acids) in the oil, the better oil will be absorbed into the skin, and the better will be its transport properties (increases the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin). True, there is a small feature, if the oil is absorbed very quickly, then it can close the pores, which provokes the appearance of acne. If the oil is absorbed for a long time, then a greasy film will remain on the skin. Often this feature is corrected using mixtures of oils.

Oils contain essential unsaturated acids (not produced by the body) - linoleic, linolenic, gamma-linolenic and their derivatives.
People with dry and sensitive skin should pay attention to the content of omega-6 acids in the oil (this is linoleic and gamma-linolenic acid), and people with skin diseases are recommended oils with a high content of linolenic acid and its derivatives (omega-3 acids), which has strong anti-inflammatory properties.

With a deficiency of essential acids, skin peeling, itching, a feeling of dryness, and redness appear. The source of essential fatty acids can be vegetable oils rich in these components, in which gamma-linolenic acid is especially high, especially this oil of borage, blackcurrant, evening primrose.

In the production of cosmetics, the saponifiable and unsaponifiable fraction of vegetable oil is used. Saponifiable is a combination of glycerol and fatty acids, if you add alkali to it, then we get soap. This faction is responsible for appearance and oil properties.
The unsaponifiable fraction is a combination of biologically active substances - vitamin E, phytosterols, carotenoids and others. It is responsible for regenerating and antioxidant properties, which is especially beneficial for aging skin. When combined with alkali, soap does not form.

Refined, unrefined oils, cold pressed

All oils are divided into refined and unrefined, the difference is in the degree of purification. The degree of usefulness of the oil is determined by the fatty acid composition, which does not change during the refining process.

Oil is refined in order to make it tasteless, it is necessary first of all in cooking, it also does not smoke and does not form foam when frying foods. There are two ways of refining - physical (using adsorbents) and chemical (using a special alkali used for food). Basically, they use the second method, since it is cheaper, simpler, and better worked out. Refined oils in specialty soap shops often do not have the pungent odor and specific color that unrefined oils have, so the color of the dye and the smell of the fragrance do not change. They also have a softer texture.

Unrefined oils go through only one level of purification, the so-called cold pressing, often on bottles with such oils they write - exstra virgin. They are more saturated with vitamins, useful substances, microelements. Therefore, for cosmetic purposes, unrefined ones are more often used. The disadvantage of such oils is a short shelf life, everything natural deteriorates faster. You need to store it in the refrigerator in a glass, dark bottle and do not use after the expiration date.
Unrefined oils should not be used in the following cases: for the delicate skin of a child, pregnant and lactating, for sensitive, delicate, thin skin, allergic reactions and other undesirable consequences are possible.

Water soluble oils (hydrogenated) or BPM

These are base oils converted into a water-soluble form. They are completely soluble in water and ethyl alcohol. Therefore, they are excellent for creating cosmetics, especially for shampoos, as they are easily washed off, for creams, since they do not weigh down the structure. The conversion process takes place in a vacuum, resulting in a clear, transparent, slightly colored liquid, with a low odor and low acidity.

Advantages:

• retain all the beneficial properties of the oil;
• increase the transparency of the soap base;
• do not affect foaming properties;
• do not delaminate in the finished product;
• can be used as an emulsifier;
• reduce irritation from surfactants;
• further cleanse the skin.

Solid base oils

With liquid oils, everything is more or less clear. Solids differ from liquids, respectively, in a consistency similar to butter, which is why they are often called "butter" (from English butter), thanks to this unique feature, very interesting cosmetics are made from them.

What interesting things can be made from solid oils and how they can be used:

• they can be used as an independent remedy for the face and body;
• as an additive to soap and cosmetics;
• to create hydrophilic tiles (for washing, removing makeup, oils form their basis);
• massage tiles (solid oils melt easily on contact with warm skin);
• soft body cream;
• lip balms;
• bath pralines;
• body scrubs and more.

The peculiarity of solid base oils is that they have a very high content of oleic acid, the main effect of which is moisturizing the skin and increasing elasticity, and stearic acid, thanks to which butters can regulate the consistency of the cream, in connection with this they are often used as a thickener and structurant in the formulation.
Some solid oils contain a large part of the unsaponifiable fraction, due to which they have a rejuvenating effect, soothe sensitive, irritated skin, and restore damaged skin.

There are two types of batters:

1. Natural butters. Produced by pressing and processing. They can also be called tropical or exotic, as they are obtained from plants in Africa, Brazil, and India. These are Shea butter (karite), mango, cupuaçu, cocoa and others.

2. Vegetable butters. Not found in nature in the solid state, they are obtained by mixing liquid oil with water-soluble vegetable oils. For example, avocado oil, coffee butter, pistachio, almond. orange butters.

Light and heavy base oils. Blending oils

1. Lungs. They have a delicate texture, quickly absorbed, easily distributed on the skin. These include: grape seed oil, macadamia, apricot, peach, hazelnut, almond, blackcurrant, evening primrose, borage and others.

2. Heavy. Thicker ones, high in natural antioxidants, serve as natural preservatives for oil blends. It is recommended to add them to light oils. Heavy include: cocoa butter, avocado, jojoba, sesame, wheat germ, walnut, cotton, linen and others.

When creating a mixture of oils, you can not be afraid, since the base oils do not “quarrel” with each other, they can be mixed in any combination, in the amount of about 4-5 different items, choosing properties and features.
Most base oils can be safely applied to the body in their pure form, problems can only be due to individual intolerance. It should be borne in mind that some oils, such as cupuacu, amaranth, tamanu, pekui, contain high concentrations of active substances, so you should follow the recommended proportions when adding them to cosmetics.

Some oils can be comedogenic (prone to clogging pores): flaxseed, cocoa, peach, almond, castor, coconut, corn, grape seed, mink, peanut, safflower, sunflower, soybean, shea, cottonseed, and others. They are best used in oil blends.

Non-comedogenic oils: jojoba, wheat germ, apricot kernel, kukui, hazelnut, grape seed, sesame, rice, poppy and others.

Due to the fact that base oils have such different properties and characteristics, you need to carefully select them depending on the type of skin, season, weather, taking into account individual characteristics and problematic points. This is all quite simple and interesting, a kind of creativity, especially when you have information about this or that oil, we will talk about this in the following articles.