Peter's costume reform. Fashion revolution: why did Peter I need to dress Russians Introduction of European clothes under Peter 1

The men powdered their hair and shaved their faces.

Now the male nobles and townspeople wore a short, tight-fitting caftan and camisole, culottes - short men's pants. This word is French - it was France that was the main trendsetter of that time. Long silk stockings relied on culottes white color and shoes with buckles. In second place, after blunt-toed shoes with buckles, were over-the-knee boots with wide bells at the top of the top. Peter himself wore over the knee boots, which, according to rumors, he sewed for himself ... Fashionistas of that time wore a white wig on their heads - it kept its shape for a long time and gave the owner a representative look. Those who did not need to hide their baldness simply powdered their own hair. The face, of course, was shaved - no beards.

Women's suit - fitted silhouette and wide skirts

Bodice (or corsage) women's dress with a deep neckline, the shoulders, chest and waist of the lady were tightly fitted, and below, towards the hips, the skirt greatly expanded. Wide skirts were on frames - pannier, and later fijma. Sometimes the dresses were decorated with trains, and these trains, along with high heels at the shoes, caused the young ladies considerable inconvenience. The whole outfit as a whole did not add grace to the lady and it was not easy for them to spin in dances. It was not easy even just to sit down ... The fair sex also often wore wigs, as well as hats.

Women diligently changed their appearance

Bright cosmetics (rouge and whitewash) were applied to the face, because faces turn pale in candlelight. The language of "flies" came into use - artificial moles made of taffeta or velvet. The place on the face where the fly was applied was not accidental and was a secret message. A fly in the corner of the eye meant: "I'm interested in you", on upper lip- "I want to kiss you" and so on. They also communicated non-verbally with the help of fans - they also became fashionable.

New suits have pockets

Until now, there were no pockets on clothes: knives and necessary papers they wore a bootleg, money was sometimes hidden behind the cheek. But on the new outfits, pockets were provided and, of course, they immediately began to fill with contents. Peter himself in the pockets of his caftan carried a notebook, a drawing board with drawing tools, a box with threads and a needle.

A new form of communication - assemblies

Noble fashionistas could show off their new outfits at assemblies. These meetings were also entertaining, but could also serve the cause: in casual conversations they exchanged news, and in serious conversations they discussed important matters. Assemblies were replaced by feasts, where they mostly ate and drank. Communication, games and dances prevailed here: polonaise, minuet, country dance, anglaise, allemande. The owner of the house in which the assembly was held had to notify by letter or in any other way where those who wished should come. Before four o'clock the meeting did not begin, after ten it did not end, the guests came when they wished. By the way, before men were taken separately from women, and now the fair sex participated in meetings on an equal basis with the stronger sex.

Peter himself had only two ceremonial suits

In general, Peter noted some negligence in clothing. Of his weekend costumes, he most often wore the uniform of the captain-bombardier of the Preobrazhensky regiment or a simple dark caftan. The main thing in clothes for him was comfort. Therefore, he did not like lace cuffs - they interfered with work. But he approached the choice of linen more carefully, preferring a thin linen.

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Fashion change under Peter 1 History project On the topic: Fashion change under Peter 1. Pupils of the 8th geek MBOU "Gymnasium" G. Bakhchisaray Marchuk Yesenia

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Changing fashion under Peter 1 The reign of Peter I went down in history not only with judicial and financial reforms, but also with transformations in the cultural sphere, including in the field of fashion. Many historians associate the emergence of the very concept of fashion in Russia with the name of Peter. For three decades, he managed not only to change the clothes of the conservative Russian nobility in a European way, but also to change the style of behavior and thinking of the capital and Moscow residents.

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Peter I against traditions. Beard tax. Even before the reform, Peter I preferred a more comfortable European dress to traditional long-brimmed clothes, and in the late 1690s, after returning from abroad, he set about Europeanizing the country, and he began with the most inviolable - the beard. For a long time, shaving a beard and mustache was considered a sin in Rus'. Therefore, when in 1698 the young Tsar Peter I personally cut off the beards of several noble boyars, this caused misunderstanding and surprise. However, the tsar was persistent, despite the fact that many saw in his actions disrespect for the original Russian traditions. In addition, after shaving off the beard, the priests refused to serve the beardless, and there were even cases when, after being forced to shave, the boyars committed suicide.

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In 1698, Peter I established a tax on a beard, and those who paid it were given a special token presented to the policemen. Already in 1705, a decree was issued according to which the only ones who were allowed not to shave their beards and mustaches were priests, monks and peasants. From all the rest, an increased tax was levied for disobedience, the amount of which depended on the class and property status of the violator. There were four levels of duty in total: 600 rubles a year, which was a lot of money, had to be paid by courtiers and city nobles, 100 rubles a year were charged from merchants, 60 rubles were paid by townspeople, and servants, coachmen and Moscow residents of various ranks for wearing a beard gave 30 rubles a year

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Culottes and a dressing gown instead of a dressing gown and pants. The nobles, who did not have time to recover from the ban on beards, soon faced a new shock. August 29, 1699 - a decree banning the old Russian costume. January 1700 years - Peter I ordered everyone to wear a dress in the manner of the Hungarian, a little later the German costume was given as an example, and in the end the boyars and nobles were ordered to wear German dress on weekdays and French dress on holidays.

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According to the regulations, men now had to dress in a cropped caftan, camisole and trousers. The European caftan was much shorter than the traditional Russian one - it only reached the knees. Rather tightly fitting the figure from above, it became wider downwards - there were folds on the sides of the caftan, and a slit in the center of the back and on the sides. This made the caftan more comfortable and practical, now you could even ride in it. The lapels on the sleeves - cuffs - were made wide enough and decorative buttons were sewn on them.

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The camisole was in most cases sewn from the same fabric as the caftan, but it was much shorter and not as wide at the bottom. These clothes also had slits on the sides, but there were no folds. The sleeve was narrow (sometimes it was not there at all), and the collar was never sewn to the camisole. The camisole was fastened with buttons and could be decorated with embroidery and patterns on the fabric.

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At the same time, special clothes for the home - a dressing gown - came into fashion. A dressing gown was a dressing gown worn by boyars and noblemen in home environment. Judging by the name (from German - Schlafen - "sleep", Rock - "clothes")

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Corsets in lace and robes in stones. If men dressed in new suits rather reluctantly, then the transition to European fashion was even more difficult for women. Accustomed to long and wide sundresses, to layered outfits, now the girls had to wear a narrow and shoulder-opening European dress.

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At the beginning of the 18th century, the clothes of the capital's noblewomen began to resemble the French dress of the late 17th century. The ladies' costume now consisted of a skirt, a bodice and a swinging dress - all this caused women special inconvenience. For wealthy ladies, it was always covered with silk and generously trimmed with buttons, lace and ribbons. The corset could not be put on on its own - the lacing on the back of the girls was tightened by the maids, it was difficult to breathe and relax or bend the back in it. Out of habit, many ladies, being in a tight dress all day, fainted. In addition to the inconvenience, the corset was also introduced for health: in it, the body became vulnerable to stomach and lung diseases.

Alexey Karetnikov. "From the Life of Peter the Great"

But our North is a hundred times worse for me
Since I gave everything in exchange for new way,
And customs, and language, and holy antiquity,
And stately clothes for another
In jester fashion:
The tail is behind, some kind of wonderful notch in front,
Reason contrary, contrary to the elements.
Griboyedov. Woe from the mind. 3, 22. Chatsky.

Having visited Western Europe with the Great Embassy in 1697-1698, Tsar Peter returned to Russia full of grandiose ideas for the reorganization of Russian life. The folk wisdom “meet by clothes” went sideways to the people, since the autocrat decided to change this very clothes of his subjects.

This was done so that Russians in the West would be accepted as their own and communicate with them on an equal footing. Since a shaggy beard was a distinctive feature of a Russian person, the first thing the monarch ordered was to shave his subjects. The text of the corresponding decree from 1698 has not survived to this day, but it was he who initiated the change in the appearance of the Russian nobility.

In Russia, the first place in the decoration of the outfit was occupied by pearls in pre-Petrine times.

The princes wore long rich caftans fastened in front with spherical buttons. Their cloaks were mostly made of bright red silk.

In January 1700, a decree “On wearing a dress in the manner of the Hungarian” was issued, instructing “boyars, and roundabouts, and duma, and neighbors, and stolniks, and solicitors, and Moscow nobles, and clerks, and tenants, and all ranks of servicemen, and clerks, and trading people, and boyar people, in Moscow and in the cities, wear dresses, Hungarian caftans, the top ones are garter-length *, and the bottom ones are shorter than the top ones, the same similar.

The Hungarian costume was taken as a model because it was closer to the Russian one, which should have facilitated the transition from long-brimmed caftans to French-cut caftans. However, a year later it was ordered to switch to a German-style dress. The second decree provided for tough measures against those who balked and did not want to change their usual clothes.

* on the garter - that is, approximately on the palm below the knee.

Russian women's costumes

HEATING. Outerwear Russian women of all segments of the population in the XV-XVII centuries. Soul warmer was worn over a sundress; in rich houses they sewed from expensive patterned fabrics. Its length is just below the waist. The cut of the dushegrey is loose, wide, beautiful folds on the back emphasize the trapezoid silhouette of the clothes. Dushegreya was fastened in front and had wide straps.

At the entrance to the city, special people were placed who watched what clothes a person came in. For an inappropriate appearance, they took a fee: 13 altyns and 2 money from footmen, and 2 rubles from horsemen. For those who did not pay, the skirts of a long caftan could be cut off on the spot, - says the head. Nina Suetova, Department of Fabric and Costume of the State Historical Museum.

In the next few years, several more similar decrees were issued. In them, dresses of the Western European type were prescribed only for the nobles. But for wearing a beard, as before, one had to pay a tax of 30 to 100 rubles a year - a lot of money! A special beard badge automatically made it possible to wear traditional Russian clothes.

G. Prenner. Portrait of c. Ya. E. Sievers. Middle of the 18th century.

Innovation was difficult even in Moscow, not to mention other cities. It was not only the unusualness of foreign clothing, but also its unsuitability for Russian realities. So, in 1706, a decree “On allowing Siberian residents to wear such a dress as anyone wishes” was issued.

The old Russian costume was long-brimmed and multi-layered, which made it possible to keep warm. Its cut did not change for several centuries, and clothes could be inherited. The Western European costume took shape by the last quarter of the 17th century and consisted of three main items: a caftan, a camisole and knee-length pants. The outfit was complemented by a shirt, stockings and boots with a buckle. With minor changes, such a costume was preserved until the end of the 18th century.

Portrait of A. Ya. Naryshkina with children. First quarter of the 18th century.

In a camisole, a person could receive guests in the house, and went out into the street in a caftan, although in terms of cut they were not much different. For the winter, the caftan was lined with fur, but fur coats also remained in use. The western caftan was more comfortable, especially for service people, since they no longer got confused in long floors- notes Nina Suetova.

The boyar stolbunts were replaced by felt hats, and for the winter, willy-nilly, I had to leave fur hats. Under Peter, wigs appeared, although the emperor himself rarely wore them. His coats were different turn-down collars, while in the classic version of the Western European costume they were absent, since they were blocked by the wig blades.

Tsar and boyar clothes of the 17th century.

Shoes from the beginning of the 18th century are practically not represented in the collection of the Historical Museum. It is known that Peter ordered to process the skin not with tar, but with blubber. In Rus', to make it more comfortable to walk, the soles were tamped with nails and staples. In 1715 (September 1, old style), a decree was issued prohibiting the use of such materials for the manufacture of shoes, and merchants who continued to trade in them could lose their property and even be sent to hard labor.

Unknown artist. Portrait of Tsesarevna Natalya Petrovna. First quarter of the 18th century.

The women's costume has also undergone changes. In pre-Petrine times, the dress was one-piece, with a belt and almost completely hid the figure. Now the court ladies were ordered to wear bodices with a decollete and wide skirts. This had a negative impact on women's health. Later, when girls from the age of seven began to be laced into a corset, this turned into a deformation of the figure by adulthood, which entailed illness and difficulties in bearing children. The outfit was complemented by petticoats, boots and German boots.

The most painful blow fell on headgear. In Rus', a married woman was not supposed to show her hair in public - it was considered a shame, so her head was necessarily covered. Peter introduced hairstyles, which for already married women came as a shock.

It was easier for the youth. Noble children traveled abroad, and there they adopted Western European fashion. Unmarried girls did not cover their heads, so after the wedding they simply continued to dress as in girlhood. It was very difficult for the older generation. The old foundations broke quite painfully, - continues Nina Suetova.

Peter the Great in a foreign dress

Despite the fact that newfangled clothes were prescribed only for the upper classes, ordinary citizens also suffered from the reform. Tailors could not immediately adopt all the secrets of the cut. Decrees forbade the manufacture of Russian dresses, hats, boots and boots. Disobedience could also be followed by confiscation and hard labor.

On the squares and at the city gates, for example, they exhibited "stuffed animals, that is, samples of the dress." Later, special dolls dressed up in the latest fashion began to be ordered from abroad, so that the royal subjects could, as they say now, be in trend. This, by the way, was a common practice in Europe.

Portrait of Catherine I. J.-M. Nattier (1717)

Since 1707, special people have examined wardrobe items intended for sale and put a special stamp of conformity. If the cut did not meet German standards, the product was given to the artisan for alteration, which in addition was accompanied by fines and punishments.

Bearded peasants at the entrance to the city had to pay two dollars, i.e. a penny. The clergy were not forbidden to wear beards. Severe punishments for following the old way of life were characteristic only of Peter's time. From the middle of the 18th century, the violation of these decrees of the first Emperor of All Russia was turned aside. But the process he started was already irreversible.

Merchants and tradesmen switched to Western European costume towards the end of the 18th century. Accustomed to strictly honor the customs of the Old Believer merchants, especially on the Volga, in Nizhny Novgorod, lasted until the middle of the XIX century. And only the peasants, until the very revolution, wore the same Russian shirts and trousers.

Russia. prince and women

The historian Sergei Solovyov, who lived in the 19th century, believed that the change in costume also influenced the national character: “Long and wide clothes are an expression of a calm, mostly domestic life, rest, sleep, short and narrow clothes are an expression of wakefulness, an expression of strong activity.” One can argue with this statement, because the radical transformations of the Petrine era affected all aspects of Russian life without exception. But the thought is curious.

Russian tsar and boyars

Russian noblewoman and boyars

Exercise 1. Write down in the table what changes have occurred in the nutrition of the upper strata of society in Russia.

310 years ago, Peter the Great issued a decree: Wear Western European costumes

Task 2. Fill in the table "Changes in clothing in the 18th century."

When completing the assignment, use the materials § 18-19.

Task 3.

During the time of Peter I, the first mods appeared.
By decree of Peter I in 1700, the nobles and townspeople were forbidden to wear the old Russian costume and the following forms were established instead: for men, a short, close-fitting caftan and camisole, culottes, long stockings and buckled shoes, white wig or powdered hair, shaven face; for women, a wide frame skirt, a tight-fitting bodice (corsage) with a deep neckline, a wig and high-heeled shoes, bright decorative cosmetics (rouge and white).

The caftan was worn unbuttoned - wide open.

In those days, France was considered a trendsetter, so many toilet items had French names, for example, culottes - short men's pants, they relied on white silk stockings.

Stub-toed shoes with small heels with large metal buckles, or boots - over the knee boots - with wide bells at the top of the tops were considered fashionable shoes.

In the Armory of the Moscow Kremlin, among the items of clothing, there is a pair of coarse leather over the knee boots that belonged to Peter.

There is an opinion that the king, who mastered many crafts to perfection, sewed them with his own hands.

In the famous portrait of Borovikovsky, Prince Kurakin is depicted against the background of a magnificent palace setting in a dazzlingly bright full dress, richly decorated with jewels, for which he was called the diamond prince.

A tight-fitting tailcoat with high-cut hem and golden-yellow brocade culottes, red and blue sashes, rich embroidered camisole, cuffs, expensive lace cuffs make the costume extraordinarily colorful and elegant.

Then the wig came into fashion.

For all its inconvenience, it also had considerable advantages: it kept its shape for a long time, hid a bald head, and gave its owner a respectable look.

Women's costumes of the Petrine era have not been preserved. During the reign of Elizabeth, the daughter of Peter, they are characterized by special splendor and wealth. The ladies of the court wore low-cut fitted dresses on a frame base (corset and tans).

In 1720, a dress with a Watteau pleat appears.

The main silhouette of the women's costume was a fitted silhouette, greatly expanding towards the hips and bottom. It was created by a tight-fitting bodice along the line of the shoulders, chest and waist with a deep neckline and a wide pannier frame skirt, later fizhma.

Peter's costume reform
http://shkolazhizni.ru/archive/0/n-33554/
http://www.5ballov.ru/referats/preview/99254
http://www.fashion.citylady.ru/parik.htm

European clothes in Russia began to be worn thanks to the reforms of Peter I.

Prior to this, traditional forms of clothing were simple in cut and did not change for a long time. All clothes, as a rule, were sewn at home: Domostroy ordered every woman to economically manage the household and be able to cut, sew, and embroider clothes for the whole family. The clothes were inherited; the quality and cost of the fabric were valued in it.

Until the 17th century in Russia there was practically no own weaving production, clothes were sewn either from homespun fabrics (canvas, cloth), or from imported velvet, brocade, obyari, taffeta from Byzantium, Italy, Turkey, Iran, China, cloth from England.

Imported cloth and brocade were used in festive costume even wealthy peasants.

Vestments for the Moscow Tsar and his family were sewn in the Workshop of the Tsarina's Chamber. Both women and men-tailors-shoulder masters worked there (since they dressed the royal shoulder).

Exclusively male work was the manufacture of shoes, fur products, hats. All outfits were decorated with embroidery in the Tsaritsyna Svetlitsa, where women worked royal family led by the queen, noble noblewomen and simple craftswomen.

The first fans of Western fashion appeared in the first half of the 17th century.

History presentation on the topic: fashion under Peter I

they wore German and French dress. For example, the boyar Nikita Romanov dressed in French and Polish dress in his village and hunting. But foreign clothes were forbidden to be worn at court.

Alexei Mikhailovich in 1675 issued a decree forbidding the wearing of anything foreign. During the reign of Princess Sophia, European clothing becomes more and more popular.

Russian costume of the 18th century. Peter's reforms

Life and customs - Danilov, Kosulina Grade 7 (GDZ, answers)

1. Write down in the table what changes have occurred in the nutrition of the upper strata of society in Russia

Fill in the table "Changes in clothing in the 18th century." When completing the assignment, use the materials § 18-19

Write down in the table what changes in the leisure of different strata of society occurred in the 18th century.

On September 5, 1698, the great and powerful Tsar of all Rus', Peter I, issued a decree: to cut beards. First of all, this decree concerned the boyars, merchants, military leaders, but he did not bypass the rest of the male townspeople. The king's command did not apply only to clergy and partly to peasants, since they could wear beards, but only while in the villages. The nobility of Petrine Rus' was horrified by the innovation. So why did Peter I order the boyars to shave their beards?

Nowadays, talking about such a question as shaving a beard seems ridiculous.

However, if you look at the life principles of medieval Rus', it becomes clear that the issue of wearing a beard was extremely important.

The Secret of the Sukharev Tower

This was facilitated by a special way of life, in which the beard was considered a symbol of commitment to the faith, evidence of honor and a source of pride.

Some boyars, who had huge houses and a large number of serfs were envied by those who had less wealth, but they had long and lush beards.

Painting "Boyars"

Rus' of the XYII century remained "bearded" while its Tsar Peter I never wore a beard and considered the old Russian custom ridiculous. He, a frequent visitor to various Western European countries, was well acquainted with a completely different culture and fashion.

In the West, they did not wear beards and mocked Russian bearded men. Peter was in solidarity with this opinion. The turning point was the one and a half year journey of the Russian Tsar incognito with the Grand Embassy around Europe. After returning from the Great Embassy, ​​Peter could no longer put up with the "outdated" way of life in Rus' and decided to fight not only with its internal, but with its external manifestation.

The initiation of the nobility to secular European culture began with the shaving of beards, which Peter I personally took up.

Tsar Peter cuts the beards of his boyars.

Lubok picture.

The chroniclers of the September events of 1698 describe the meeting of Peter I with the nobles in different ways, however, the ending of all the stories is the same.

The nobles came to the king with lush long beards and proudly raised heads, and left beardless and confused. Some representatives of the nobility tried to resist Europeanization, but fearing to fall out of favor with the king, in the end, they obeyed his will. Many of the shaved boyars hid their cropped beards and mustaches in their pockets and kept them.

After, they bequeathed to their relatives to put their beauty and pride with them in the coffin. However, the most stubborn "bearded men" were allowed to keep their beards - subject to the payment of an annual tax.

Such a copper "Beard Sign" was issued after paying the tax and gave the right to wear a beard for a year.

In addition to a negative attitude towards wearing a beard, Peter the Great brought other valuable knowledge from Europe, introducing them in Tsarist Russia, Peter was able to cut through a “window to Europe”.

Peter's costume reform

The introduction of European customs into the life of the nobility, the education of Russian youth abroad, and the beginning of cultural exchange with European countries prepared the conditions for the Europeanization of the Russian noble costume. However, for its implementation, state decrees were required, forcing by force, fines to change the old forms of clothing and shoes, hairstyle, and cosmetics.

By decree of Peter I in 1700, the nobles and townspeople were forbidden to wear the old Russian costume and the following forms were established instead: for men - a short close-fitting caftan and camisole, culottes, long stockings and shoes with buckles, a white wig or powdered hair, shaved face; for women - a wide frame skirt, a tight-fitting bodice (corsage) with a deep neckline, a wig and high-heeled shoes, bright decorative cosmetics (rouge and white).

Rice. 1

Thus, the main forms of European costume - “Saxon, German or French dresses” - replaced the ancient Russian costume, which was completely different from them in terms of constructive and decorative solution, and brought to life new ideas about beauty, new aesthetic ideals.

The transformations of Peter I coincided with the dominance of French fashion in Europe. However, for the Petrine era, the influence of the Dutch and German costumes was more characteristic. It primarily affected the greater simplicity of fabrics and finishes, orientation to the tastes of the burghers.

The energetic nature of Peter, his active involvement of noble youth in various activities led to a more practical and simple form of clothing. You can judge about it by the wardrobe of Peter I, presented in the Hermitage collection. It contains many items made of cloth, wool, linen and cotton fabrics. For example, a double-breasted caftan made of double-sided dark red and green cloth, a turn-down collar, wide cuffs are fastened to the sleeve with three buttons covered with brocade (Fig. 1); a double-sided cloak of blue and crimson cloth (worn on both sides), trimmed with silver galloon; summer caftan and trousers in silk blue rep, lined with white silk with a floral pattern, trimmed with silver lace and buttons braided with silver thread. Under the caftan was worn a camisole of unbleached canvas, embroidered with silver satin stitch, with silver buttons, lined with dark blue silk.

The Europeanization of external forms of life and costume, orientation to the tastes of the West did not at all prevent Peter from developing Russian handicraft production, limiting the import of fabrics and other manufactured goods from abroad.

Rice. 2

Under Peter, silk and linen manufactories appeared in Moscow, St. Petersburg, and Yaroslavl. Russian artists create decor for them with silk and gold fabrics.

Women's costumes of the Petrine era have not been preserved. During the reign of Elizabeth, the daughter of Peter, they are characterized by special splendor and wealth. The ladies of the court wore low-cut fitted dresses on a frame basis (corset and tanseries). In 1720, a dress with a Watteau pleat appears.

The coronation dress of Empress Elizabeth (Fig. 2) on the corset and tankins was made of silver lace (thin brocade) and decorated with a gold braid. A lace mantle made of silver threads was put on the shoulders. After the death of Elizabeth, up to 15 thousand of the same luxurious dresses remained in her wardrobe.

The main forms and types of clothing in the second half of the 18th century

A new stage in the development of aesthetic tastes and ideals of Russian society is the period of the reign of Catherine II (1762-1796), associated with the strengthening of the influence of French fashion on the noble costume, with the approval of the luxury and splendor of its forms.

A number of state decrees regulating the forms of costume speak of the great importance attached to the costume as an exponent of class, social and moral ideas of the class during this period.

The aesthetic ideal and costume of the second half of the century are reflected in the portraiture of the remarkable Russian artists Levitsky, Borovikovsky, Rokotov, Argunov.

Men's suit

The main forms of men's costume from the beginning of the century to the 70s. change slightly: as before, there remain a French caftan with straight floors, expanded downwards due to rigid padding, a camisole, and culottes. However, every year the wealth and luxury of the applied fabrics, finishes, and decorations increase. At the end of the 70s. French and English tailcoats are in fashion.

In the well-known portrait of Borovikovsky, Prince Kurakin is depicted against the backdrop of a magnificent palace setting in a dazzlingly bright full dress, richly decorated with jewels, for which he was called the “diamond prince”. A tight-fitting tailcoat with high-cut hem and golden-yellow brocade culottes, red and blue sashes, rich embroidered camisole, cuffs, expensive lace cuffs make the costume extraordinarily colorful and elegant.

Woman suit

Rice. 3

The main silhouette of the women's costume of the second half of the 18th century, with the exception of its last decade, was a fitted silhouette, greatly expanding towards the hips and bottom. It was created by a tight-fitting bodice along the line of the shoulders, chest and waist with a deep neckline and a wide frame skirt - pannier, later fizhma. We see such a dress in the portrait of Sarah Eleonora Fermor by the artist Vishnyakov (Fig. 3. Vishnyakov: “Portrait of Sarah Eleonora Fermor”).

In the 70s. fashion, as in the West, includes a profile silhouette, high hairstyles and hats, decorated with ribbons, feathers, frills (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4

As well as for the men's suit, for the women's suit, expensive imported fabrics with rich finishes were used: embroidery (gold and silver threads), precious stones, the finest lace, gas. This luxury often bordered on wastefulness and led to the ruin of noble families. The illusion, widespread during the heyday of the noble state, about a reasonable and educated monarch who would solve all social conflicts with the help of humane and fair laws, was reflected in Catherine's decrees prescribing moderation in the use of expensive fabrics, decoration, and jewelry.

One of Catherine's decrees determined the shape of the court women's dress on holidays - the national sundress - swinging clothes made of expensive fabric, worn over a corsage and a framed skirt.

In the 90s. under the influence of the fashion of the era of the French Revolution in Russia, they begin to wear thin shirt dresses with high waist, hair with curls or a Greek knot, soft shoes without heels, with ties around the calves. Such costumes can be seen in the portraits of Borovikovsky (“Portrait of M. Lopukhina”, “Portrait of the Gagarin Sisters”).

The influence of the noble costume on the costumes of other classes

From 1700 to 1725, by decree of Peter I, the townspeople did not have the right to wear Russian dress. But the attraction to its basic forms has always been strong, especially in the middle and lower in terms of property circles. After the death of Peter, when many merchants and townspeople returned to national costume, Western influence has not completely disappeared. A modernized Russian men's costume began to take shape - the costume of merchants and townspeople, which was fully developed by the middle of the 19th century. It combined elements national clothes with details borrowed from a noble costume.

Rice. 5

For example, the cut of the back of a long-skirted Russian caftan with a clasp to the left was close to that of a Western European justocor with side pleated fans.

Proceeding from the idea that only long clothes give its wearer gravity and dignity, merchants and townspeople never wore short caftans, their length always exceeded the fashionable one.

Women's merchant costume was even more influenced by noble fashion, which manifested itself in the cut, manner of wearing, accessories (kerchiefs, stockings, shoes). So, shirts and sundresses could have a deeper neckline, dushegrey were of an adjacent silhouette, the Russian headdress was tied in the form of a turban that was fashionable at that time

As opposed to male woman suit characterized by greater variegation, brightness of color combinations (crimson, purple, green, blue, red), with the use of satin, velvet, brocade fabrics, expensive fur, fashion shoes On high heels.

Forms of fashion distribution and its regulation by state decrees

Russian costume of the 18th century developed in accordance with the requirements of the general European fashion. Fashion was spread mainly through ready-made samples, ordered by the wealthiest nobles from Paris and London or ordered from foreign workshops.

There were no regular fashion magazines at that time, but information about fashion novelties of the costume appears in such popular reading magazines as Hardworking Bee, Sundries, General Knowledge Store.

They played an important role in the 18th century. state decrees and decrees on the clothes of the nobles, clearly regulating not only the shape of the costume, but also the nature of its decoration, color, fabric, and decorations. So, in 1782, Catherine II issued three decrees. The first of them is "On the dressing of ladies who have a visit to the court." It recommended observing “more simplicity and moderation in the image of clothing” and it was forbidden to trim the dress with gold and silver embroidery or lace wider than two inches (9 cm) and wear headdresses higher than two inches. In the second decree, it was recommended that nobles (men and women) appear in the capital and at the court in dresses of the colors assigned to their province. For example, the uniform of a nobleman of the St. Petersburg province is represented by a light blue caftan with black velvet lapels, collar and cuffs; Moscow province - a red caftan with dark gray trim, etc. In the same color scheme the outfits of their wives and daughters had to be decided. The third decree - "On the appointment, on what holidays, what dress to wear to persons of both sexes who have a visit to the court" - allowed to wear clothes made of gold and silver brocade on especially solemn occasions, and silk and cloth on less solemn occasions. All fabrics must be Russian-made.

Borrowings from the fashion of revolutionary France were met with a whole series of state decrees in Russia.

Catherine II ridiculed the fashion of "inimitable incroables", ordering all St. Petersburg policemen to be dressed in such a suit.

Paul I in 1796 banned long sans-culottes, tailcoats, round hats and short haircut. Of course, it is impossible to stop the development of fashion with such decrees, nevertheless, during the life of Paul I (for five years), the nobility of Russia was forced to dress, as if for a masquerade, in old-fashioned costumes. After his death, new forms of costume with lightning speed were restored in everyday life.