Shave with a blade. How to shave with straight razors for beginners

More recently see how to shave straight razor, could only be in the movies, but now and in everyday life, more and more men prefer it. Using a dangerous blade isn't just about removing excess facial hair. This is adrenaline-fueled art, a craftsmanship that needs to be polished.

A dangerous or bladed razor is a tool with an open blade. Shaving with a straight razor has often been the cause of cuts, as it is a procedure that requires a cool head and a steady hand.

Exist different models blade razor. They are heavy, made of a single piece of metal, and lightweight - empty and half-empty. A simple razor consists of a handle and a working part. The latter, in turn, has a head, a back with a double base, a blade, an eral (tail) and a heel.

The head of a blade razor is round, rectangular, semicircular, oblique, "French" or notched. The rectangular head is the most common because its sharp angles allow you to shave hair in the most inaccessible places, but at the same time it is the most dangerous type of device. Sharpening a straight razor takes time and skill.

The distance between the "back" and the tip is measured in eighths of an inch. Narrow razors with a 4/8 blade are used for trimming beards and shaving in hard-to-reach places. The most popular size is 5/8, but there are also fans of wide 7/8 or 8/8 inch blades.

Another important characteristic of a bladed razor is the geometry of the blade. It can have a wedge-shaped, biconcave or mixed shape.

The blade can be made of different types of steel:

1. Damascus is the most durable, reliable and expensive. This is an almost eternal tool, but it is difficult to sharpen it.
2. Carbon. The blade of this material can be sharpened to the state of a scalpel. At the same time, carbon steel corrodes quickly.
3. Stainless. Sharpening these blades is not easy, but they are not afraid of corrosion and last a long time.

The handle is made of wood, bone, horn, steel and plastic. There are expensive antique models with an ivory handle.

Advantages

The main advantages of a straight razor:

1. Does not irritate sensitive skin. Some cosmetologists claim that shaving in this way is the safest and even beneficial for the skin. It has to do with cutting hair.
2. Provides a closer shave. A well-sharpened tool in skilled hands cuts hair more thoroughly than its safe counterparts.
3. The blade can be sharpened by yourself.
4. Multifunctionality.
5. Savings through durability.

Flaws

The main drawback of a dangerous razor lies in its name. An unprotected blade in inexperienced hands can cause severe cuts, while a poorly sharpened blade can lead to skin irritation and a poor shave. A dangerous razor does not forgive fussiness, haste and careless attitude.

Another disadvantage is the difficulty of acquiring a good tool and its high cost. At the same time, a quality razor will last for many years.

Preparing for the procedure and what you need

Professional barbers put a damp, hot towel on their face before shaving. This is done to make the skin and hair softer. The towel is kept on the face for about 4 minutes. To soften the bristles, special conditioners and oils are used, which must be washed off before applying shaving cream.

At home, before manipulation, you need to wash in warm water with soap. The hotter the water, the better.

For shaving, you will need a container for foaming cream and shaving brushes. The brush can be selected from badger, pig or synthetic bristles. The size of the shaving brush should be sufficient for easy application of the cream, but not too large. The larger it is, the higher the consumption of the product and the more likely it is to get dirty or get into your nose or mouth.

First you need to fill the container hot water and dip a shaving brush into it. After that, it will become soft and will qualitatively perform its functions - lather and evenly apply the cream on the bristles. After steaming, cream or soap is added to the container and foamed with a shaving brush. The result should be a dense and resistant foam. The resulting product must be carefully applied to the face with light in a circular motion thick layer.

Shaving Rules and Techniques

There are several simple rules how to shave with a straight razor:

1. It is important to remain calm during the procedure.
2. The blade must be well sharpened. This affects both the quality of the shave and its safety. The sharper the blade, the less cuts.
3. In the process of shaving, you need to use your hands to pull the skin down. This will greatly facilitate the removal of stubble by increasing the viewing angle and protect against cuts.
4. First, the hair is removed in the direction of growth, and then against. It takes 3 sets to get the best result. Between them, it is necessary to cover the face again with foam.
5. Each approach begins with short strokes, and ends with long strokes. It is necessary before each movement of the hand to pull the skin down with a free hand from the razor.
6. Do not hold the point sideways or parallel to the skin.
7. You don't have to put in extra effort while shaving.

How to hold a razor

You can hold a razor different ways:

1. Thumb are placed on the reverse side of the back, the little finger - on the point so that the heel (sting) is located between the little finger and the ring finger. The rest of the fingers are held on top of the earl.
2. The little finger is located on the notch of the tail, the big one is on the flat part of the erl on the inside, and the rest are on the outside. The sting in this case looks up.
3. The middle and index fingers are placed on the inside of the erl, the ring finger is placed on the inside of the shank, holding it, and the little finger is placed on the tail notch. With your thumb, we support the butt at the junction of the shank with the blade. The sting in this case also looks up, and the handle fits snugly to the wrist.
4. The hand should move often, easily, rhythmically. If you put pressure on the blade or use your whole hand, you can cut yourself or pull out hairs.

Correct skin tightening

The technique of shaving with a dangerous razor includes the correct stretching of the skin during the procedure. This must be done in the opposite direction of the razor.

The skin is stretched with the index or middle finger, which is placed 2-3 cm below the blade. Only after this is the movement of the razor made.

Blade Angle

The tool should move head forward at an inclination of 30-40°. This will ensure easy glide and effective removal hair. If the angle is sharper, the razor will slide over the stubble without cutting. If more, increase the likelihood of cuts. In order to obtain the necessary inclination of the blade, it is applied flat to the skin, and then, gradually raising, the required angle is achieved.

Stages of the procedure

Shaving with a dangerous razor begins from the line of the temple, setting the blade on its edging, to the cheek. Then we direct the handle to the lower jaw. In the middle of the cheek, turn the tool towards the earlobe and move towards the jaw.

We shave the neck from the angle of the lower jaw down. You need to be especially careful in the ear area, where there are often bumps and skin folds. To avoid cuts, thumb With the free hand, we move the lobe to the side, stretching the skin and covering the ear with the hand, as a limiter.

Now the razor needs to be taken in the third way. The tool should be placed in the middle of the cheek, directing the head under the cheekbone. It is necessary to shave in the direction of the lips, passing the bulge of the lower jaw and the mustache area. When removing the bristles in the corner of the mouth, the toe of the instrument is lowered until it coincides with the line of the mouth. Then we shave off the whiskers - the hair near the lower lip.

Since there is an anatomical cavity in this place, you need to lift the skin with your tongue from the inside. Helping yourself with facial muscles and tongue can facilitate the process of shaving. When shaving under the lower lip, one must be especially careful not to cut the small protrusion under it.

The next step is to shave your mustache. In this zone, hair grows from top to bottom. Here it is worth helping yourself with the muscles of the face, stretching and smoothing the skin. Additionally, you can lift the tip of the nose with your free hand.

We take the razor in our hands in 1 way, we remove the hair with short and clear strokes. We shave the sides of the mustache from right to left with the toe of the razor, in the direction of the middle of the upper lip, holding the razor in the third way.

We remove hair from the chin to the middle of the jaw, holding the tool in 1 or 2 way. Here we stretch the skin a little differently - in 2 directions with two fingers of the free hand. We put one on the chin, the other on the jaw, and place the razor between them. We remove the hair, going a little beyond the corner of the jaw.

The final step is shaving the neck. Here, the Adam's apple is a dangerous area. To prevent cuts, the skin is pulled a little to the side. It is more convenient to hold the razor in 2 ways.

Repeated hair removal is performed in the opposite direction. The process starts this time from the lower part of the neck and ends at the temples. It is more convenient to shave the right side of the face in 3 ways, and the left side - choosing the option that least hides the view.

We move from below, smoothly passing through the angle of the jaw to the cheek. We move from the cheek to the chin, removing the lower part of the mustache and the hair in the corners of the mouth along the way. Finally, shave the chin and upper lip. If a third pass is required, shave against hair growth.

Shaving the head with a straight razor starts from the front and sides. The approach is the same as for the face. First, shave the hair in the direction of growth, and then - against it. To process the back of the head, use a hand or table mirror.

Shaving this area is difficult due to the occipital folds of the skin and the curves of the skull. If you are unsure of yourself, it is better to finish shaving with a safety razor.

Skin care after shaving

After shaving, wash off the remaining foam with cool water to close the pores on the skin. Since exfoliation occurs in the process of working with an open blade (the top layer of the epidermis is removed), aggressive skin care products, including alcohol-containing ones, can lead to irritation and peeling.

Alcohol can be used to treat cuts and scratches. After washing, you can put a towel moistened with warm water or a decoction of herbs (chamomile, calendula, etc.) with the addition of essential oils to your face.

Sharpening is carried out in several stages, using stones of different abrasiveness - whetstones. Ruled with a belt. For the first time, GOI paste can be used to correct sharpening.

Before starting sharpening, it is necessary to evaluate and, if necessary, correct the geometry of the blade. It affects the choice of whetstone and sharpening method.

To determine the geometry, the razor is placed on a flat surface and viewed how many gaps there are between the blade and the surface. The butt and edge on both sides should fit snugly against the plane. If there are gaps, they must first be eliminated with a stone with a large abrasive.

A razor sharpened at the corners has a cutting edge sharpening angle of 16°. The process takes place in three ways: with the help of a stone, a skin and a belt.

Stone

Water stones are moistened with water before work, and oil stones are moistened with oil.

When sharpening, the razor is placed on the stone with the entire plane and is led forward - on the grain, and then back. In order not to bend the edge, do not press on the blade during the passage. With one hand, the razor is held by the handle, and with the other, the blade is pressed against the stone. Turn the tool over only through the butt.

Stones for sharpening a dangerous razor at different stages will require different ones. First, a 1000 grit stone is used, on which the working edge is formed. Sharpening goes on until it stretches out in a straight line and stops “dancing” on the mirror. After the formation of the correct geometry, the blade with the heel of the sharp edge is installed on the edge of the stone and pulled to the spout, eliminating burrs.

Then, on stones of 2-3 and 6-10 thousand grit, under the control of a magnifying glass, they smooth out the risks from a rough stone.

Belt

Sharpening a straight razor for the first time ends with editing on the shoe belt. Then they use leather, the belts should be slightly wider than the blade so that the editing goes evenly, and double-sided. One side is made of leather, the other is made of fabric. For 15 wires on a fabric base, there are 50 wires on the skin. For convenience, the belt is pulled.

In the process of sharpening, the razor is held by the shin with one hand and pressed against the belt with the other. The blade is placed flat and the ridge part is pulled forward. Editing is accompanied by a characteristic sound.

The surface of the belt must be clean and smooth, the defective coating will have to be cleaned and sanded. Before use, the belt is rubbed by hand to heat and remove dust particles.

After straightening, the razor needs to be checked for the quality of sharpening. To do this, make 5-10 light strokes with a razor along the block belt with paste, butt forward, and then cut the hair in weight at a distance of 10 mm from the finger. If the hair is not cut, sharpening starts over.

The most dangerous areas to shave with a straight razor - upper lip, ear area and Adam's apple due to folds and bulges due to the anatomical structure. Here you need to be especially careful to avoid cuts. It is recommended to carefully stretch the skin with your hands.

Do not be shy and help yourself with your tongue, mimic muscles of the face, additionally stretching the skin. Then dangerous areas will become more accessible, and visibility will increase.

To keep your razor clean, wash and dry thoroughly. Additionally, you can lubricate the metal with oil to protect against corrosion.

The habit of shaving is rooted in the distant past, so this process is well known to any man. True, then the “tool of labor” had little in common with modern devices, but the essence of the procedure has not changed. But even today, not everyone knows how to shave with a straight razor.

The most "capricious" razor

If there are practically no problems with modern tools, then the use of a straight razor raises many questions and prejudices. She is by far the most demanding. At first, use it slowly and carefully so as not to damage the skin.

It is important not only to learn how to shave with a straight razor, but also to know that it must be looked after and properly sharpened. Then the procedure will bring only pleasure, since one pass shaves quite a bit. a large number of hair. Such a blade is especially popular among aesthetes and connoisseurs of the classics. Most often it is made of stainless and carbon steel, which is quite justified.

Dry shaving

This type of removal of unnecessary bristles means that there is no need to moisturize the skin. You can shave with mechanical, electric or electromechanical shaving machines. The treated areas will not be very irritated, but the hairs will grow back very quickly. The need to shave every day can be considered the main disadvantage of this method.

Wet shave

To figure out how to shave with a straight razor, you need to understand that it is used to shave with moisturizing the skin. This method is also suitable for safe machine applications. This is a fast and reliable method that gives good results: the stubble grows back much longer than after dry shaving. But you should be aware that irritation may appear, which even high-quality gels and balms do not always cope with. This is especially true for the winter period.

What do you need for a dangerous shave?

IN Lately dangerous shaving is not as popular as it used to be, but it still has its advantages. The most important thing that is needed for the procedure is a straight razor. There are models from different manufacturers on the market, so the choice is quite large. To understand how to hold a straight razor, you need to know that it consists of a handle and a blade, which is made from steel of a special composition. The material has properties that help heal minor wounds and scratches.

An important accessory is the belt for editing. It can be suspended type or stretched on a special bar with a handle. An abrasive paste and brush will also come in handy. It is used to apply a cream that forms a thick foam.

Razor preparation

Before proceeding directly to the procedure, it is necessary to prepare a razor. It needs to be "pulled" on a belt. This should be done from yourself, controlling the constant angle of the blade. If you do not follow this rule, you can damage the instrument.

The foam is whipped with a shaving brush and applied to slightly moistened skin. After shaving is completed, you need to apply a towel dipped in hot water to your face. Then you can apply a balm. Such measures will help to avoid irritation and redness of the skin. Can be worn on face if desired.

Disadvantages of dangerous shaving

If you figure it out, with a dangerous razor, then the disadvantages of this method can be minimized. But still, they are: people who use such razors note the high cost of the tool itself and the necessary accessories.

Great care must be taken when handling a straight razor. One awkward movement is enough to damage the skin. During the entire procedure, the main principle should be observed - do not drive the machine horizontally.

For men who need a straight razor, reviews will help you choose suitable model. People practicing this method of getting rid of unwanted vegetation claim that this procedure is a kind of ritual. Shaving brings undoubted pleasure, and the skin becomes soft and smooth.

Straight Razor Benefits

A machine of this type has a number of advantages, which are completely pointless to dispute.

• Long service life. If you know how to shave with a straight razor, and handle it correctly, edit on a belt and not cut various materials, it will last a very long time. Sharpening and cleaning from dark spots will allow the machine to be passed on to the next generation.
• Close shave. Men who use straight razors are sure that they shave much cleaner than safety razors. At first it may seem that using it is difficult and inconvenient, but with experience it becomes clear that this is not at all the case.
• Saving. The advantage of a straight razor is that, although all the necessary accessories are not cheap, the funds are still saved. This is because you don't need to buy removable cassettes. The paste needs to be purchased about once a year, and the belt can last about thirty years if you treat it with care.

What do you need to know?

If a man does not know how to use a straight razor, and he has no experience, he is usually very worried the first time. Therefore, before the procedure, you need to calm down, because it is extremely important to have a firm hand. To get used to the machine, you can rotate it, try the sharpness of the blade, but do not start shaving.

The event will be held without difficulties and problems, if you remember three important rules:

• The razor must be well sharpened.
• The tilt angle is 30 degrees.
• The skin of the face should be taut.

If you do not follow these points, it will be difficult to understand how to properly shave with a straight razor. If the blade is not sharp enough, then cuts will remain on the face even with the most gentle and careful shaving. A thirty-degree angle is also justified: in this way, you can achieve maximum smoothness of the face and avoid irritation. Tight skin is probably the most important thing. If wrinkles form, cuts are guaranteed.

How to shave?

You need to start by preparing the skin. To shave smoothly, the face must be moistened and steamed. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a terry towel soaked in hot water. It is enough to apply it to the face for a couple of minutes.

Some men use but it is better to purchase a special foam. You need to start all movements in the direction of growth of the bristles. To achieve smoothness, it is necessary to hold the blade several times in one area.

First of all, you should shave the right side of the face, pulling the skin with the fingers of your left hand. When excess vegetation is removed, you can move on to the other side. In order not to miss areas, the skin must be properly stretched.

To shave the lower part of the face, you need to tilt your head to the right or left, and then tip it back and walk the blade along the chin. All actions should be performed carefully and slowly so as not to injure yourself. At first, the procedure will take a lot of time, but then things will go much faster.

Sometimes men doubt whether they need a straight razor. Feedback will help you make the final decision. Experts assure that this method of removing bristles is worthy of mastering it. No wonder this procedure is called "royal shave".

shaving head

The easiest way to make a smooth head is with the help of two tools: a machine tool and a straight razor. You can not start the procedure without lubricating the skin with a gel that forms a thick foam. It is more convenient to apply the product to the treated areas gradually, and not simultaneously to the entire surface. But shaving your head with a straight razor at the back of your head can be tricky. The second mirror will help to cope with this task. Although many men agree that it is disorienting, it is therefore better to carry out all actions by touch.

After the head becomes smooth, you need to thoroughly rinse off the remnants of the product and hair. Feeling the entire surface with your hands, you can determine where the bristles are left, and repeat the procedure again. Shave against hair growth.

These days, the idea of ​​shaving with a straight razor is shrouded in mystique. For most, this is a mysterious ritual. However, this mysterious ritual is, in fact, the only way to achieve such a degree of closeness of a shave that distinguishes a real gentleman. This classic method is a kind of art, accessible only to barbers and movie characters, as most people think. But is it? In fact, the art of using a straight razor can be learned at home. Thanks to our instructions, with a good tool and some practice, you can easily achieve the same result as in a professional salon. Speaking of good tools - we recommend Dovo products - great straight razors and accessories at affordable prices.

How best to prepare a beard

Shaving is not only the end result, but the process itself. To make it as comfortable as possible, the face must be prepared. Heat and water expand pores and make hair softer and easier to cut. If you plan to shave before showering, we recommend soaking a towel in hot water and applying it to your face. Just a few minutes, and the pores will expand, and the hair follicles will become softer.

If you prefer to shave after showering, we recommend applying conditioner first, rinsing it off right before you go out. Together with the warmth of the water, this will also help soften the skin. The effect is like a hot towel. Essentially, a towel is the traditional way, but any type of heat treatment and moisturizing will do. Especially if you are limited in time.

Oil treatment

When the pores expand, they will need to be protected. Use a special oil on the entire surface of the shave. In addition to protection, the oil also:

- moisturize the skin

- will make the movement of the blade smoother, reduce resistance

- will create an antiseptic effect

- soothe sensitive skin

Foam preparation

In the case of a straight razor, ordinary foams and gels are not suitable. It is necessary to use a special cream or soap. Squeeze a small amount into a container and carefully move with a brush until a dense substance is formed that will not drip. After that, apply it on the beard in a circular motion, so as to coat each hair. This way the foam will lift the hair off the skin and the razor will be able to go as close to the skin as possible. In addition, well-prepared foam serves as an additional barrier between the skin and the blade.

How to hold a razor

When you pick up a straight razor for the first time, it will seem completely alien and unusual to you compared to disposable razors. But with a little care and practice, this classic facial will become an extension of your fingers. With practice, you will learn how to hold the razor in different ways (for example, to shave better under the nose). But let's start with perhaps the most common method of holding, familiar to almost everyone who uses a straight razor. So, we put the ring, middle and index fingers on the side opposite the blade, the little finger at the end (the tail of the blade, which is located behind the connection with the handle), the thumb is located on the side of the blade just below it. This method of holding will allow you to fully control the movements.

razor and will allow you to successfully complete the shave. As you gain experience, you can explore other ways, many of them are described on our website.

How to shave with a straight razor

With your free hand, pull the skin tight on your cheek in the opposite direction of the blade. Hold the razor at about a 30-degree angle to the surface of your face and slowly begin to move in the direction of hair growth. Then change the direction of movement of the blade and, accordingly, the tension of the skin with your hand. Facial hair grows in different directions, which means that they also need to be processed in different ways, until you have selected all the intended areas. Important points are speed and force. Move the blade slowly and evenly so as to shave the hairs as close to the skin as possible. After a while, you yourself will determine the rhythm of the process, the most comfortable for the skin and for holding the razor. Shaving in the direction of hair growth is the safest in terms of cuts and irritation. However, those who want to achieve especially smooth skin can try to shave across the hair growth and even against it. Remember to moisturize your skin and apply new lather to ensure smooth blade movement. At some point, you only need three blade strokes over the same area (along, across, and against hair growth) to achieve a perfectly clean-shaven face.

After Shave

Moisten skin with cold water immediately after shaving. This will close the pores. Further - to your taste. You can use lotions or balms after shaving. For some, however, they can cause a dry effect or, conversely, oily skin. In this case, we recommend using the balm on natural basis. It will soothe the skin and make it look fresh and healthy.

How to deal with cuts

Let's be honest - the first shave with a straight razor will not do without cuts at all. Treat them as a kind of rite of passage. Remember them and your skill will grow. Even the most professional barbers will hurt their client.

To minimize the likelihood of cuts, you need to remember the most common causes of their occurrence:

- dull blade

- wrong razor grip

- too much pressure

- too much speed

- shaving across and against hair growth

The art of shaving with a straight razor may seem very complicated at first glance. But only for the first. Just find your ideal rhythm and take care of your skin the right way. A little time, and the blade will become an extension of your hands, and perfectly smooth skin will become a daily pleasure.

Why is the classic shave back in fashion?

Fashion develops in a spiral. Now, more than ever, vintage and retro style. In addition, in the current era of digital technologies and fast food, there is an especially acute need to slow down ... and not run, ... stop, ... live the moments of your life consciously, slowly and with pleasure. The classic wet shave is part of that approach to life. This is not a daily routine, but a pleasant aesthetic ritual, a manifestation of care and attention to your loved one.

A straight razor shaves better than any T-bar. It's an axiom, which has not been refuted over the past 300 years, since the creation of a dangerous razor of a modern look, nothing more functional has been invented and will not be invented. We do not consider the Egyptians with their copper scrapers. A straight razor is the perfect shaving tool.

What is the dangerous razor shaving technique made of, how to shave correctly, what should a beginner pay attention to? A novice user needs to master a few key skills.

Grips, holding the razor

Grips, holding the razor, are divided into "canonical" and free. The canonical grips are the grips that barbers are taught to hold the razor with the point down (a) and the point up (b).

To change the direction of the shave, the brush flips the razor 180 degrees - it's simple. All other retention methods are free. Practice itself will tell you one or another grip, which will be convenient for you to shave certain places on your face. When mastering grips, even before shaving, learn right away relax your hand . Tension in the hand never will not allow you to shave properly and safely. A relaxed hand will quickly learn everything you need. You can learn how to properly shave with a straight razor with both your right and left hands. For faster development of motor skills of the left hand, try brushing your teeth with it.

Shave as you like, as your hand allows, then you will find your style. Do not imitate anyone, do not watch videos of “snobby gurus” on YouTube, many of them have shaved twice and spread their “rich experience and smart advice” to you.

When shaving, in the cut area, the skin must be taut. If you allow a “wave” of skin in front of the blade, then immediately start this “wave”, cut off the top layer of skin. It is not necessary to stretch the skin too much - it is enough to create a slight tension in order to get a high-quality cut. Someone manages to create the required skin tension in the right place and at the right time with facial expressions, head tilt. Someone helps with a hand. Shave as you please. The direction of hair growth on the face of each person is very individual, here lies the answer to the question: “why can’t I shave some areas around the neck with a dangerous razor, but I can do it well with a machine?”. Answer: “Especially in the neck area, the direction of hair growth can change randomly.” The length of the cutting edge of the machine blade is 3.5 - 4 cm and you can change the direction of the cut by 360 degrees. In this case, almost the entire cutting edge of the blade has contact with the skin. With dangerous razors it is somewhat more difficult, the standard length of the cutting edge is around 7 cm. If this question is fundamental to you, pay attention to the old (not a remake !!!) Japanese razors with a working edge length of 4 - 5.5 cm, folding kamisori (Folding Kamisori) or short wedges. I don't remember any other manufacturer making razors with such a short cutting edge.

Choosing a shaving product (very important)

Next is the question of choosing shaving products: soap, foam, shaving gel, everything that will make it easier to cut the bristles, ensuring that the blade glides smoothly over the skin. This question is again very individual for everyone, so there are no unequivocal tips, only your selection of what suits you best. From myself I will add that the difference in shaving comfort is very different depending on the chosen product. With one foam for 250 rubles I shave much more comfortable than with other foam for 800 rubles, I will not name brands. Soap with a horse price tag of 3,000 rubles per 40 grams causes skin irritation for me. Be sure to experiment on yourself and do not listen to anyone. I recommend that you start shaving using gel. From my point of view, shaving gel is the most universal remedy. Shaving gel provides the best glide of the blade, due to the higher content of glycerols, does not dry out as quickly as foam or soap. Even if For Woman is written on the gel - take it, you will not be disappointed.

Preparing your face before shaving with a straight razor

To prepare the face for shaving, it is necessary to clean the skin and bristles from dirt and sebum, moisturize the bristles. It is to cleanse and moisturize, not steam. By steaming the bristles, you steam out the skin and it becomes looser, therefore, more prone to cuts. Hair is hydrophilic, it absorbs water. Absorbing water, the hair increases in diameter up to 20%. Wet, swollen hair loses stiffness and is much easier to cut. It is much more difficult to wet hair protected by sebum. Shaving gel is applied to clean and moistened bristles. This is the necessary minimum. The easiest option is to shave after a shower. Razor - gel - hand - everything.

The miracles with hot towels in hairdressing salons, shown in many videos, are understandable in terms of process technology. Temperature reduces the time for cleansing and swelling of the bristles, hot moisture removes sebum better, that's all the sacrament. Of course you can apply this technique at home, at your convenience. I think this is redundant in the presence of a shower with warm water.

Technique dangerous shave

Recommended razor directions are shown in the illustrations. The first pass is done in the direction of hair growth, the second - against. I want to draw your attention to shaving such difficult areas as the mustache and chin area. The second pass on these zones is done parallel to the lip line. This is enough for a good shave. At the beginning of the development of the shaving technique, do not try to shave in these areas against hair growth, the hair in these areas is as hard and thick as possible (individually). Shaving these areas requires a certain amount of skill. The main difficulty will be in working out the movements when moving from the chin to the neck and vice versa. Pay close attention to the angle of the blade to the skin during this transition. Hammer in your head two conditions for success: don't rush, don't push.

Now about the technique of shaving the bristles. The first thing to take care of is not to watch videos on the Internet where people shave with dangerous razors. Everything that is shown there is in 90% of cases - the wrong technique. Amateurs, having learned from the same amateurs, distribute garbage videos and mislead newcomers. Namely, the people without exception shave with a straight pull of the razor (noted for 2010), perpendicular to the cutting edge - i.e. imitate the movement of a T-shaped machine, only do it with a straight razor. This means that a straight razor is put in a row for a shaving competition with razors on "their field". It should be noted that the profile of the blades in the machines was created specifically for such work, and a straight razor was created for a completely different cut. Of course, you can shave like that, but why learn to shave the wrong way so that you can relearn it later? Only occasionally come across videos on which you can see the correct course of the razor - an oblique cut. I strongly advise you to carefully, many times, look.

BASICS:

first law: the razor shaves under its own weight, the hand only sets the direction of the cut - this is the formula for success. You must realize that shaving is not due to the effort of the hand, but due to the inertia of the razor blade itself. The force and the wrong direction of the cut, pulling the blade along the working edge are cuts. If you still have to make an effort when shaving and there is a feeling that the razor catches the bristles, skips the hair - stop, most likely the razor is not sharpened.

The exception is the mustache and chin area (hard bristles), when shaving these areas against hair growth. In this case, the resistance is very felt. Reduce blade travel in these areas to 5mm. With insufficient skill, it will not be possible to shave with any razor otherwise.

In the process of shaving, a dangerous razor should slide smoothly over the skin, the inclination of the razor blade to the skin should not exceed 15-20 degrees, this is a butt slightly raised above the skin, nothing more.

second law: - a dangerous razor is designed for a "oblique" cut. There are two angles in hairdressing textbooks - the angle of the razor to the skin (15-20 degrees), and the mowing angle (30-40 degrees) - i.e. the angle of the "descent" of the razor with the line of movement in a straight line, if you build a perpendicular to the cutting edge. Pay attention to this circumstance, because. in many articles, and often these are just reprints from old textbooks or manuals for hairdressers, there is a mention of an angle of 30-40 degrees without explaining what this angle is. Beginners understand it as the angle of the blade to the skin - it's just an abnormally huge angle! For smooth and easy hair cutting, the razor should be moved over the skin with a cutting edge not perpendicular to the direction of the cut section of hair, and at a certain angle (30-40) - so that there would be a cutting movement either towards the head or the heel of the razor. A razor with an oblique cut should work cleanly and not disturb.

To better imagine the process of shaving, take a loaf of bread and a knife. First, try to cut through the bread by direct pressure with the entire cutting edge of the knife on the bread from top to bottom. In this case, you will get a model of stubble shaving with a machine that cuts hair when the direction of the razor is perpendicular to the line of the cutting edge. Now try, pressing on the knife, move it at an angle of 30-40 degrees in the direction of the cut. If the knife is well sharpened, it will go into the bread “like butter”, without noticing the obstacle. This is the correct shave. Any movement of the razor should be at an angle of 30-40 degrees to the perpendicular line of the cutting edge. This will be the very correct “oblique” cut that was taught to hairdressers. This process has one more explanation - the kinematic transformation of the sharpening angle. If someone is interested in the scientific rationale for proper shaving, then you can read . In general, a straight razor is a tool for smart and curious people. Here are the most visual illustrations sharpening angle transformations proposed by the respected Tras Krom. Two leaves from the sticker are folded in half with the same angle - a prototype of the cutting edge of a razor. One of the models was cut off at an acute angle. The line of movement of the razor is drawn with a pencil, sheets of paper are attached to the line of movement - see how the angle of the razor has changed along the “oblique cut”. It decreased, despite the fact that the angle of sharpening remained the same! The following diagram compares a "bevel cut" with a straight pull razor, also made by Tras Krom.

For a long time he could not understand the kinematics. The meaning is very simple - you can cut the hair "immediately - straight." You can cut hair by changing the position of the blade. The path of cutting the hair will be somewhat longer, but at the same time we will get what is described! There is a criterion by which you need to navigate - this is the comfort of shaving. If you feel discomfort when shaving, then the angle of the blade should be lowered slightly so that there is only a feeling of lightly stroking the blade on the skin. Any feeling of “cling” of the razor to the bristles or something like that is a signal either about an overestimated angle of the razor, or about the absence of an oblique cut, or about the poor quality of sharpening or the razor itself.

Be sure to take into account the possible discomfort at the beginning of learning how to use a straight razor. The skin is not accustomed to such exposure, it often takes some time. Be patient, this is important. Immediately and cool without experience is rare.

Foam and water while shaving categorically should not flow down the erl to the area of ​​​​the upper pin. The correct consistency of the foam, this is the "cap". It should remain on the blade along with the shaved stubble, but it should not be dried out or very thick. When rinsing the suds off the blade, always hold the razor with the tip down. The water temperature should be around 40 degrees, in no case boiling water under 80 degrees, which is possible from the tap.

Avoid moisture in the area of ​​​​the upper axis, this is simple, but very important. You cannot remove moisture from there, this is the main focus of razor corrosion. Hand, which you shave must stay dry for the entire shaving process- this rule will keep your razor from rust for decades. When you shave, have a towel nearby on a flat surface where you can always safely rest an open razor if your fingers feel moisture from dripping foam. Dry your hand, clean the blade and razor earl, continue.

There was a case that I remember very well: I tore off the napkin from the roll, the napkin was hard and dense, and it so happened that, while passing the napkin over the razor blade, I touched the cutting edge with it, stretching the napkin perpendicular to the edge of the blade. The sound alarmed me. As a result of studying the working edge with professional optics, I saw a micro bend on half of the RC. Such a razor will no longer shave and the belt will not correct the situation. The tip of the RK straight razor is a very delicate matter. Any, even a light touch on a solid object, leads, as a rule, to its damage. On the other hand, straight razor RK is an extremely durable tool that, when properly used, does not lose its cutting properties for many months. Somewhere I saw calculations that during one shave the working edge of the razor experiences loads comparable to the loads when cutting a horn with a diameter of more than 1 cm. By its structure, the hair is a horn tissue.

Tips for beginners about straight razor shaving.

If you are just starting to shave, don't try to shave completely the first time. it is very important! With your diligence, you will only spoil your further desire to use a straight razor because you will cut off everything that is possible on your face and get severe skin irritation. One two hair growth passage one two passage - against. At the very beginning, I generally do not advise shaving against hair growth. Get better with what you usually use - the machine. This is fine. It will be possible to shave completely and qualitatively with a dangerous razor from 6-10 times. The most important thing is not to rush. There should not be any pressure on the razor, watch the angle of the blade to the skin, control the direction of the cut, nothing complicated.

The quality of shaving, it is better to evaluate 30 minutes after shaving. Immediately after shaving, the skin is still irritated (again, everything is individual) and what can be assessed as poor shaving is actually a quickly passing irritation of the hair follicles.

Full understanding, a sense of control over the process of dangerous shaving will come in a couple of months. It may seem like a long time, but it's worth it. Some users manage to master the technique of shaving faster.

Before the dangerous razor, I had constant irritation in the neck after shaving with any cost of machines, now I forgot about it.

See the best , which is found in the open spaces. Try to see and understand these movements. Follow the rule of "oblique cut" - the cutting edge should not move perpendicular to the direction of the cut, the blade should move towards the nose or heel (30-40 degrees). Hussars are not needed - a saber across the whole face. Short and light cutting movements with the blade. Calm, relaxed and not rushed.

First understand mentally how a straight razor should work, and then translate this knowledge into the ability to do this work with your hands. If the brain accurately understands the model, the hands will quickly learn to work correctly.

That's all the secrets of straight razor shaving, good luck.

Used materials from the site http://razorsharp.ru

Straight razors have been shaving for centuries. This tool is able to handle any type of bristle. When working with the device, you must follow a few rules that will protect a man from cuts and more serious injuries. By knowing how to shave with a straight razor, you can achieve perfectly smooth skin.

Working with requires certain skills, without which it is impossible to achieve perfectly smooth skin and avoid cuts. This tool shaves beards of any length, cutting hair almost to the root. As a result, even the smallest stubble does not remain on the face after the procedure.

Mustache owners shave their hairs while in good mood. When working with a straight razor, you need to focus on the process as much as possible. When using this hair removal tool for the first time, it is recommended to start with flat areas: cheeks, legs, and so on. As you gain experience, you can move on to other zones.

Before each procedure, it is necessary to steam the face. Moreover, the harder the hair, the more carefully you need to approach this procedure. It is equally important to follow the rules for caring for a beard. With the right approach, the face will always remain beautiful and clean.

Basic principles for a perfect shave

Shave only with a sharp razor. Before each procedure, it is recommended to run the blade several times over the belt. The sharper the straight razor, the fewer cuts it will leave.

While shaving, pull the skin down. This increases the treatment area and reduces the risk of skin damage.

First, vegetation is removed according to hair growth, and then against it. To obtain smooth skin, it is necessary to walk along the face three times, each time applying foam. The first approaches are performed with short strokes. In the future, at a time, you can remove the hair in large areas.

When shaving, do not put pressure on the straight razor. The blade must be in the correct position.

Preparing for the procedure and what you need

To shave your stubble you will need:

1. Straight razor. The tool is selected taking into account the preferences of the man and the type of vegetation. If a shavetka is used, then for coarse hair, you should purchase a device with two blades.
2. Shaving brush. The optimal material is badger pile. Synthetic shaving brush often causes irritation.
3. Sharpening stone and leather belt. The first is used to restore the sharpness of the blade, the second is used to straighten a straight razor.
4. Soap, shaving cream. Classical products are not used in this case, since they do not create foam of sufficient density.
5. Container for soaking shaving brush.
6. Hydrogen peroxide. It will be required for cuts to stop the blood.

In preparation for the procedure, you will need not only shaving accessories for shaving, but also a small towel that needs to be moistened with warm water. It is used as a compress on the face, thereby steaming the skin and opening the pores. If a man has stiff bristles, a warm towel should be applied twice.

Before the procedure, the shaving brush is soaked in water, after which the latter must be changed. The foam should be whipped in a separate container or directly on the face. It must be applied, moving from the center to the auricles. It is necessary to ensure that the foam is as dense as possible and does not spread over the face. You can start shaving with a dangerous razor after 3-5 minutes.

What is the danger?

It will be quite difficult for a beginner to cope with a dangerous razor. In the first few times, avoiding cuts is almost impossible. That is why professionals recommend starting with flat surfaces in order to learn how to use a straight razor.

It is important not to rush, trying to remove all the hair at a time. This is especially true when the skin is treated in the neck area. If bleeding occurs, hydrogen peroxide should be applied immediately to the wound. In more complex cases, you need to seek help from a doctor.

Shaving Rules and Techniques

There are several ways to properly shave with a straight razor. Techniques vary depending on the position of the instrument in the hand. However, the angle of inclination of the "fear" is always constant. This reduces the chance of skin damage when shaving hairs.

How to hold a razor

Before you start shaving, you need to decide, firstly, how to hold a straight razor, and, secondly, choose the best technique for yourself:

1. The little finger is placed in the recess in the shank area, and the thumb rests on the heel from below the straight razor neck. The remaining fingers are fixed on the upper part of the device along the earl.
2. The little finger is placed in a recess near the shank. The thumb rests on the inside of the earl, the rest are on the outside.
3. The index and middle fingers are fixed on the inside of the earl. The little finger is placed in a recess near the shank. The thumb is placed on the butt in the place where the blade connects to the shank, and the ring finger is placed on the inside of the shank. When shaving in this case, the handle of a dangerous razor should fit snugly against the palm of your hand.

The last technique of holding the tool is not usually used by hairdressers. However, this method is suitable for shaving facial or body hair. This technique is also used in cases where others cannot be used.

Correct skin tightening

The rules for using a dangerous razor provide for the mandatory tightening of the skin during the entire procedure. The dermis must be taken away in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade. The skin is pulled with one finger before shaving begins. It should be at a distance of 2-3 cm from the blade.

As a result, it turns out that shaving with a dangerous razor is carried out as follows:

• the skin is stretched;
• the blade is applied to the face;
• hair is cut;
• the instrument is removed and a new area of ​​skin is stretched.

The above algorithm must always be observed. This is especially true when the hair on the cheeks is removed.

Regardless of the type of straight razor (classic, with a blade with replaceable blades), the tool should only move at a certain angle during shaving. This maximizes the effectiveness of the procedure and reduces the risk of skin damage. The blade should be tilted at an angle of 30-40 degrees.

Use of "fear" on other parts of the body

Regardless of which part of the body is being treated, it is necessary to follow the same shaving technique with a straight razor. That is, the angle of the blade to the skin should be 30-40 degrees. Before each procedure, the body should be steamed with warm compresses. In addition, it is necessary to apply a foam of a dense consistency to the skin.

Certain difficulties arise when hair is removed with a straight razor on the legs. The skin on some parts of the lower extremities is worse stretched than, for example, on the face. In addition, it is not recommended to remove vegetation with a straight razor in the bikini area.

But despite the fact that such a tool is suitable for shaving on any part of the body, the device is traditionally used to treat the face.

Face treatment for growth and against hair growth

The straight razor hair removal technique is somewhat different depending on which part of the face is being treated. Removal of vegetation is first carried out in the direction of hair growth, and then against growth. In both cases, before shaving, it is necessary to apply foam to the skin. The order of the procedure does not change depending on which side of the face is being treated.

As an example, the first method of holding a straight razor will be considered. Shaving with a straight razor starts from the temple line. First, a small amount of foam is removed with a blade along with the hair. It is important to remember to stretch the skin before shaving, keeping your finger at a distance of 2-3 cm. The blade gradually lowers the lower jaw. An area of ​​a few centimeters should be treated at a time.

Having reached the middle of the cheek, you need to turn the blade towards the earlobe. The straight razor moves further towards the jaw. Often in this area, the hair is pulled in different directions. In such cases, the blade should be set so that it does not move with growth.

In the area where the jaw bends, the razor turns downward and moves towards the neck. When processing this part of the face, care must be taken, as you can cut your ear. It is recommended to pull it to the side so as not to hurt.

After that, the device must be taken in the third way (the handle rests on the wrist). A dangerous razor is exposed in the middle part of the cheek so that its end is located below the cheekbone line. Next, shaving is carried out towards the mustache, capturing a small part of the nasolabial triangle zone.

Having reached the corner of the mouth, you need to lower the blade so that it coincides with the line of the lips. Hair here often grows in a small cavity. To remove vegetation, the cheek should be slightly raised from the inside with the tongue.

Then, with caution, you need to shave off the hair to the center of the chin, after which the blade is turned towards the lower lip. The next step is to start shaving your mustache. "Opaska" in this case must be kept in the first way. Hair should be cut in short and light strokes. The blade in this zone should go from right to left.

Holding the “fear” in the first way, you need to move to the chin and proceed to remove the vegetation towards the middle of the jaw. The skin in this area should be stretched with two hoops to the right and left. At the end, the vegetation on the neck is removed.

Shaving the left side of the face is carried out in a similar way.

In the second step, the foam is reapplied to the skin. Then the blade is placed against the direction of hair growth. The blade is placed on the neck and moves towards the temples. At the second stage, "fear" is kept in a third way. Having reached the cheek, the razor must be turned towards the chin. At the end, the remaining hair on the central part of the neck is removed.

How to deal with scratches and cuts?

After the second shaving step, wash your face with cold water. Then you need to apply lotion or cream to the skin.

More often, during shaving, the middle part of the neck or the area of ​​​​the nasolabial triangle suffer from cuts. If the skin is damaged, it is necessary to stop the blood by pressing the problem area with your finger. Then the site is treated with an antiseptic composition (hydrogen peroxide) and sealed with a plaster.